Swift

[MX793]

Ok, so apparently, the motor mounts for the Swift are different from a 'st33m.

Nothing a little duct tape, JB Weld, Alumalloy, a drill and Dremel Tool can't fix.

[the Teuton]

Why do I foresee this thread turning into a 20+ page behemoth? 

How does the car drive right now?

[MX793]

Definately need to bash in the other side to give it a flared-fender, coke-bottle shape.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Why do I foresee this thread turning into a 20+ page behemoth? 

How does the car drive right now?

slow 

[MX793]

Nothing a little duct tape, JB Weld, Alumalloy, a drill and Dremel Tool can't fix.

Oh, and will a Hayabusa motor fit?

[the Teuton]

slow 

Does it handle like it's on rails?

[Eye of the Tiger]

Oh, and will a Hayabusa motor fit?

I does have to be street legal for the foreseeable future

[Eye of the Tiger]

Does it handle like it's on rails?

Sure does, if the rails are made of jello pudding.

[Eye of the Tiger]

If I choose to rebuild the Swift's motor instead of the Volvo's, I will probably just get a performance camshaft, and perhaps mill the head a little bit to increase compression. Otherwise, it's not worth putting a ton of money into the little 1.3. Also, a nice 4-1 header is available for a reasonable price, so I might do that.

For rallyx, the main focus will be on suspension, of which there are also very few aftermarket options.
Replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends is a good start.
The front sway bar will be ditched altogether.
Shock absorber options are not great. Koni's universal inserts are possible, but expensive. There are aftermarket coil sprigns, but they are lowering springs. I need to increase spring rate while maintaining ride height, so I may need to get some custom wound coil springs. That, or shell out a cool grand for the racing coil over kit... umm, no.
Tires, however, are cheap and easy to find in the proper sizes.

[the Teuton]

If I choose to rebuild the Swift's motor instead of the Volvo's, I will probably just get a performance camshaft, and perhaps mill the head a little bit to increase compression. Otherwise, it's not worth putting a ton of money into the little 1.3. Also, a nice 4-1 header is available for a reasonable price, so I might do that.

For rallyx, the main focus will be on suspension, of which there are also very few aftermarket options.
Replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends is a good start.
The front sway bar will be ditched altogether.
Shock absorber options are not great. Koni's universal inserts are possible, but expensive. There are aftermarket coil sprigns, but they are lowering springs. I need to increase spring rate while maintaining ride height, so I may need to get some custom wound coil springs. That, or shell out a cool grand for the racing coil over kit... umm, no.
Tires, however, are cheap and easy to find in the proper sizes.

Are those 12-, 13-, or 14-inch rims?

[Eye of the Tiger]

Are those 12-, 13-, or 14-inch rims?

13's!

[Eye of the Tiger]

More info on swapping to the 1.6L 'st33m engine:

Only the top two bell housing bolts will line up with the 1.6 block, other need to be fabricated
Front engine mount and rear trans mount will need to be fabricated
The flywheel and clutch are the same.
Also the fuel injection systems are different, so it would need to swap in the 1.6 ECU.

[the Teuton]

More info on swapping to the 1.6L 'st33m engine:

Only the top two bell housing bolts will line up with the 1.6 block, other need to be fabricated
Front engine mount and rear trans mount will need to be fabricated
The flywheel and clutch are the same.
Also the fuel injection systems are different, so it would need to swap in the 1.6 ECU.

Worth it?

[280Z Turbo]

Worth it?

Definately not.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Worth it?

No, the 1.3 will have to do for now

[2o6]

No, the 1.3 will have to do for now

Swap to the 1.3L from the previous gen. More parts available. The model you have was developed only for America in mind.

[280Z Turbo]

Drop in a 305 from an old Camaro when you get to Michigan. They can be had for dirt cheap.

[SVT_Power]

srsly nick? you got another car?

[the Teuton]

srsly nick? you got another car?

You realize in the time you've had your one car, he's gone through 4 or 5.  In the time I've had my one car, he's had 6-8.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Drop in a 305 from an old Camaro when you get to Michigan. They can be had for dirt cheap.

305's are like the worst engines ever made

[280Z Turbo]

305's are like the worst engines ever made

Better than a 1.3L hamster wheel.

How about this:

[Eye of the Tiger]

Better than a 1.3L hamster wheel.

How about this:

That weighs as much as as 305 and has half the torque.

[280Z Turbo]

That weighs as much as as 305 and has half the torque.

How does a rotary weigh as much a SBC?

[the Teuton]

This is Taylor Swift. 

[Eye of the Tiger]

I would probably be fairly swift with Swift.

[Raza]

Swift: Named for Irony

[Eye of the Tiger]

Swift: Named for Irony

I would let Swift ride me swiftly while riding in my Swift.

[Eye of the Tiger]

[Eye of the Tiger]

If I'm aiming for the Rally Prepared Front Wheel Drive class (PF), that means I can do the following...

• Mudflaps and skidplates
• Racing seat, belts and rollcage
• Additional hood and trunk latches
• Any brakes
• Any clutch that fits in stock location
• Exhaust from cylinder head can be modifed, but must have a cat, meet noise limits, and exit behind driver
• Intake system upstream of throttle body is unrestricted
• Any wheels
• Any sway bars
• Short shift kits okay
• Strut tower bars okay
• Any dampers that mount in original locations
• Any springs of same type in original locations, threaded collars okay
• Camber plates okay
• ECU may be modifed or piggybacked, but not replaced
• Any tire except homemade studded tires
• Any non-metallic suspension bushings

So, I can't strip out the interior at all without going into the Modified class, but that is not worth going for unless I have some kind of crazy engine swap.

[Cookie Monster]

Is it a manual?