Accord's E-brake is stuck

[BimmerM3]

Discuss.

The e-brake lever goes down, but the car doesn't want to move. I'm about drag it into the garage and take a look at it, but if I don't see anything obvious, I'm going to need ideas.

[JWC]

Is it four wheel disc or rear drum.  If it is rear drum, you can usually rock the car and the shoes will free themselves, provided that is the problem. 

The most common failure is rusty Ebrake cables. 

[GoCougs]

Rusty, as in a flooded car once upon a time...

(My vote too.)

[BimmerM3]

Just went out to the car (hadn't tried to move it since Sunday) and the parking brake released just fine.

For the record, they're rear drums.

[JWC]

As cold as it has been, they probably were just iced up. 

[The Pirate]

I just replaced a handbrake cable on the Proteg?, due to age/corrosion.  I never used to use the handbrake, but on the advice of R-inge and some others, I'm now using it consistently (theory being that use will keep everything lubricated and moving).  My car is 4 wheel disc though.

So, once you verify that the cables are okay, use the brake regularly.  But yeah, the cold weather doesn't help.

[BimmerM3]

I just replaced a handbrake cable on the Proteg?, due to age/corrosion.  I never used to use the handbrake, but on the advice of R-inge and some others, I'm now using it consistently (theory being that use will keep everything lubricated and moving).  My car is 4 wheel disc though.

So, once you verify that the cables are okay, use the brake regularly.  But yeah, the cold weather doesn't help.

I always have used the parking brake every time I park.

You guys were probably right that it had something to do with the combination of cold and rust.

[The Pirate]

I always have used the parking brake every time I park.

You guys were probably right that it had something to do with the combination of cold and rust.

Here's a thought with rear drums.  No concrete mechanical reasons on this one, but I swear I've fixed (or just prolonged the failure) a lot of minor rear drum brake (and hand brake) issues with the old reverse and hard stop adjusting trick.

[BimmerM3]

Here's a thought with rear drums.  No concrete mechanical reasons on this one, but I swear I've fixed (or just prolonged the failure) a lot of minor rear drum brake (and hand brake) issues with the old reverse and hard stop adjusting trick.

Yeah, maybe I'll give that a go just for shits and giggles.

[The Pirate]

Not sure how well your cables are sealed, but it might be worth looking to see if you can shoot some grease in there to keep 'em lubricated too.

[S204STi]

Don't lube the cables if they are sheathed in plastic though.  I don't mean the housing: the actual cable will have a thin 1/32" layer of plastic which helps keep the cable from seizing in the cable housing, if that makes sense.  Housing isn't the best word but my vocabulary sucks so we'll stick with that.

But if it's like a bike cable with no protection over the wound metal part, then sure, lube it.

[Rupert]

Housing is the correct term for a bike cable... I assume it's the same for cars.

[Raza]

Housing is the correct term for a bike cable... I assume it's the same for cars.

Cooling on the scene like a horse in a stable.  A brother got ill, tried to snatch a fat cable.  I stepped back, like it wasn't no thing; I punched him in the jaw with the fat gold ring.  I had an ace in the hole and it came to that. 

[S204STi]

Housing is the correct term for a bike cable... I assume it's the same for cars.

Oh ok, thanks man.