850CSi's E90 Thread (old Cooling Issues thread)

Started by 850CSi, December 17, 2011, 05:13:19 PM

GoCougs

Quote from: 850CSi on April 06, 2012, 01:52:02 PM
notsureifsrs.jpg

Yep, serious. Worked a LOT on cars, and granted most of it wasn't on modern ECU/FI cars, but between that past experience and my career with control systems and machines, I grok that there is tremendous nuance/technique/experience/knowledge/etc., needed to properly fix a modern automobile. That talent will be hit and miss with independents, and impossible to verify. Going to dealership is a virtual guarantee that you're getting the best talent.

Also, in the slight chance that something goes bad, a dealership is far more capable (and willing IMO) to make amends.

850CSi

Car has been dropped off to my indie. He'll diagnose it for me so the dealership cant screw around... Either its under warranty or it isnt. Also getting an oil change and finally removing the CDV. Excited to see how it drives.

Rupert

Novarolla-Miata-Trooper-Jeep-Volvo-Trooper-Ranger-MGB-Explorer-944-Fiat-Alfa-XTerra

13 cars, 60 cylinders, 52 manual forward gears and 9 automatic, 2 FWD, 42 doors, 1988 average year of manufacture, 3 convertibles, 22 average mpg, and no wheel covers.
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850CSi

-oil change
-CDV removal (next time I guess... he didn't have the part in stock)
-and re: seat mat issues on the previous page, i got him to read the error code for me so the dealership can't screw around.

850CSi

Dealership has replaced the mat and recoded the system under the warranty. It was VIN and error code-specific, and my car qualified. I'll be getting it back tomorrow. Driving a 128i coupe loaner in the meantime - the experience is completely ruined by the transmission, and my car is a better drive to begin with.

Laconian

Kia EV6 GT-Line / MX-5 RF 6MT

Raza

Quote from: Laconian on August 14, 2012, 12:31:54 AM
Oh? What about the transmission is bad?

I'm assuming since it's a loaner, it's an automatic. 
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
If you can read this, you're too close


2006 BMW Z4 3.0i
http://accelerationtherapy.squarespace.com/   @accelerationdoc
Quote from: the Teuton on October 05, 2009, 03:53:18 PMIt's impossible to argue with Raza. He wins. Period. End of discussion.

850CSi

#127
Quote from: Raza  link=topic=26324.msg1763750#msg1763750 date=1344942567
I'm assuming since it's a loaner, it's an automatic.  

Yeah. I've driven so many variations of the BMW straight six and the slushbox just completely ruins it for me. Every time. The throttle response just isn't the same.

But again I'm surprised that my car drives noticeably better than the 1. That was true for the 120i hatch in Europe and this 128i here. It's hard to describe, but while the 128 might be just a little bit more toss-able and rolls less, my steering is much more communicative and my car feels more balanced.

If I didn't know better, I'd think I somehow got an especially 'good' 3er by chance because I have yet to drive another BMW made in the last decade that was nearly as fun as mine to drive. That's probably because they've almost all been AWD and/or auto. The 120i was fun but the instant I got back in my car I realized there was an enormous difference between the two. I even drove an E36 M3 a few weeks ago and I felt my car was a better drive. That said, I'm sure that car needs some work because the best handling characteristics I've ever seen belonged to a '93 E36 325i. That car was a go-kart.


Anyways, indie told me that E90s are fairly reliable in his experience and there aren't any huge major issues to watch out for. At this point I'm just worried about another damned wheel bearing failing because it sounds like the front left one is starting to act up...

Raza

Quote from: 850CSi on August 14, 2012, 08:27:37 AM
Yeah. I've driven so many variations of the BMW straight six and the slushbox just completely ruins it for me. Every time. The throttle response just isn't the same.


See, this is what I thought everyone meant when they started to use throttle response as a synonym for turbo lag. 

Automatics tend to think about your input before adjusting the throttle, so there is a delay in response from your input.  Turbo lag just means the engine isn't making as much power until it's on boost.  Two different things in my book.  When I hit the gas my car reacts immediately, but differently depending on whether I'm in boost or not.  That's turbo lag.  The way my dad's car decides whether or not I should be given the privilege of accelerating when I hit the gas, that's slow throttle response.
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
If you can read this, you're too close


2006 BMW Z4 3.0i
http://accelerationtherapy.squarespace.com/   @accelerationdoc
Quote from: the Teuton on October 05, 2009, 03:53:18 PMIt's impossible to argue with Raza. He wins. Period. End of discussion.

MX793

Quote from: Raza  on August 16, 2012, 05:11:49 AM

See, this is what I thought everyone meant when they started to use throttle response as a synonym for turbo lag. 

Automatics tend to think about your input before adjusting the throttle, so there is a delay in response from your input.  Turbo lag just means the engine isn't making as much power until it's on boost.  Two different things in my book.  When I hit the gas my car reacts immediately, but differently depending on whether I'm in boost or not.  That's turbo lag.  The way my dad's car decides whether or not I should be given the privilege of accelerating when I hit the gas, that's slow throttle response.

With a lot of automatics, it not so much the throttle as it is the transmission that makes it feel less responsive.  In the interest of fuel economy, automatics will tend to seek out the highest gear they can get away.  For instance, if you're traveling at 35 mph and the transmission is perhaps in 3rd gear and then you lift from the throttle to coast down a hill, the gearbox will promptly upshift.  When you first tip into the throttle, they initially try to accelerate in gear, then will downshift, which means there's some lag between when you tell the car to acceleration and when you actually get some meaningful acceleration.

Manual modes help with this to some regard in that the car will hold the gear you put it in.
Needs more Jiggawatts

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Raza

Quote from: MX793 on August 16, 2012, 06:53:14 AM
With a lot of automatics, it not so much the throttle as it is the transmission that makes it feel less responsive.  In the interest of fuel economy, automatics will tend to seek out the highest gear they can get away.  For instance, if you're traveling at 35 mph and the transmission is perhaps in 3rd gear and then you lift from the throttle to coast down a hill, the gearbox will promptly upshift.  When you first tip into the throttle, they initially try to accelerate in gear, then will downshift, which means there's some lag between when you tell the car to acceleration and when you actually get some meaningful acceleration.

Manual modes help with this to some regard in that the car will hold the gear you put it in.

Some manual modes.  My dad's Lexus upshifts secretly if it thinks you shouldn't be in that gear.  Totally useless in that car.
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
If you can read this, you're too close


2006 BMW Z4 3.0i
http://accelerationtherapy.squarespace.com/   @accelerationdoc
Quote from: the Teuton on October 05, 2009, 03:53:18 PMIt's impossible to argue with Raza. He wins. Period. End of discussion.

850CSi

Quote from: Raza  on August 16, 2012, 05:11:49 AM

See, this is what I thought everyone meant when they started to use throttle response as a synonym for turbo lag. 

Automatics tend to think about your input before adjusting the throttle, so there is a delay in response from your input.  Turbo lag just means the engine isn't making as much power until it's on boost.  Two different things in my book.  When I hit the gas my car reacts immediately, but differently depending on whether I'm in boost or not.  That's turbo lag.  The way my dad's car decides whether or not I should be given the privilege of accelerating when I hit the gas, that's slow throttle response.

Trust me, I know the difference. My first car was a 1.8T with a manual. My dad's Countryman 6MT has noticeable turbo lag. It has decent throttle response, but then you get this unexpected [for me, because I'm used to N/A] burst of acceleration.

You're right, though. They're definitely two different things.

850CSi

Alright, since I gave up a while ago on integrating an Android tablet, I need a music solution. My iPod classic's hard drive appears to be fried and I'm tired of plugging in my iPhone to play music (plus it's almost as dangerous as texting to change tracks so there's a safety/responsibility issue as well). As I see it, there are really only two options. I want to do this for under $200:

-Fix my iPod/get another mp3 player.
Pros: click wheel makes it much easier to go through 40+ GB of music
Cons: no integration with car, still just using an external device through aux line-in

-Aftermarket flash drive solution. Basically installs into the car as a CD changer interface.
Pros: can use steering wheel buttons to change tracks, no external device or line in cable to mess with
Cons: have to scroll through 40+GB of music on a two-line display:

MX793

The one feature I really like about the Sync system in my car is that I can load a flash drive with several gigs of music and can play an artists, song, album, or playlist by voice command rather than having to scroll through hundreds of songs or browse folders to find what I want.  It's a shame nobody offers an aftermarket device that can do that (maybe they do, I haven't looked).
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
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MexicoCityM3

Founder, BMW Car Club de México
http://bmwclub.org.mx
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850CSi

Sync is awesome, I'd love something like that.

Yeah, I definitely wish I had iDrive now. I absolutely loved it in the 120i I had in Europe, and that didn't even have English!

Rupert

Quote from: Raza  link=topic=26324.msg1764981#msg1764981 date=1345115509

See, this is what I thought everyone meant when they started to use throttle response as a synonym for turbo lag. 

Automatics tend to think about your input before adjusting the throttle, so there is a delay in response from your input.  Turbo lag just means the engine isn't making as much power until it's on boost.  Two different things in my book.  When I hit the gas my car reacts immediately, but differently depending on whether I'm in boost or not.  That's turbo lag.  The way my dad's car decides whether or not I should be given the privilege of accelerating when I hit the gas, that's slow throttle response.

No, that's stupid transmission. If I'm below ~3500 RPM in my 944 and I push the throttle, there is a slight delay before the engine catches up (due to the large cylinders and the old style air-fuel meter taking its time to figure it out), and that is slow throttle response.
Novarolla-Miata-Trooper-Jeep-Volvo-Trooper-Ranger-MGB-Explorer-944-Fiat-Alfa-XTerra

13 cars, 60 cylinders, 52 manual forward gears and 9 automatic, 2 FWD, 42 doors, 1988 average year of manufacture, 3 convertibles, 22 average mpg, and no wheel covers.
PRO TENACIA NULLA VIA EST INVIA

Rupert

Quote from: MX793 on August 16, 2012, 06:53:14 AM
Manual modes help with this to some regard in that the car will hold the gear you put it in.

You haven't ever needed a "manual mode" to keep an auto transmission in a lower gear, you just need to shift it into the lower gear.
Novarolla-Miata-Trooper-Jeep-Volvo-Trooper-Ranger-MGB-Explorer-944-Fiat-Alfa-XTerra

13 cars, 60 cylinders, 52 manual forward gears and 9 automatic, 2 FWD, 42 doors, 1988 average year of manufacture, 3 convertibles, 22 average mpg, and no wheel covers.
PRO TENACIA NULLA VIA EST INVIA

MX793

Quote from: Rupert on August 20, 2012, 03:40:30 PM
You haven't ever needed a "manual mode" to keep an auto transmission in a lower gear, you just need to shift it into the lower gear.

Some newer AT cars that don't have manual modes do not allow you full manual access to every gear.  The Impala I rented last week had a 6 speed transmission, but the gear selector only had PRNDL.  Not even an L1 and L2, just "L" (and heck if I know which gear "L" actually was).  No overdrive lockout button either.   Current Mustangs have 1, 2, 3, and D on the gear selector.  There's also an overdrive lockout button, but that still means there's one gear you can't manually select in any way.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

Rupert

Novarolla-Miata-Trooper-Jeep-Volvo-Trooper-Ranger-MGB-Explorer-944-Fiat-Alfa-XTerra

13 cars, 60 cylinders, 52 manual forward gears and 9 automatic, 2 FWD, 42 doors, 1988 average year of manufacture, 3 convertibles, 22 average mpg, and no wheel covers.
PRO TENACIA NULLA VIA EST INVIA

850CSi

#140
Alright, going to take my car back to my indie for the CDV delete. Parents are around for the next couple of weeks so that'll make it much easier to get a ride.

Looking forward to actually driving a real manual again... :lol:


Will also have him take a look at my oil filter gasket. Stealership said it was leaking and would need replacement. Might just do it myself, but I want to see if it's an actual issue first.

Soup DeVille

Quote from: 850CSi on October 13, 2012, 02:04:38 PM
Alright, going to take my car back to my indie for the CDV delete. Parents are around for the next couple of weeks so that'll make it much easier to get a ride.

Looking forward to actually driving a real manual again... :lol:


Will also have him take a look at my oil filter gasket. Stealership said it was leaking and would need replacement. Might just do it myself, but I want to see if it's an actual issue first.
Quote from: 850CSi on October 13, 2012, 02:04:38 PM
Alright, going to take my car back to my indie for the CDV delete. Parents are around for the next couple of weeks so that'll make it much easier to get a ride.

Looking forward to actually driving a real manual again... :lol:


Will also have him take a look at my oil filter gasket. Stealership said it was leaking and would need replacement. Might just do it myself, but I want to see if it's an actual issue first.

You don't get a new oil filter gasket with every new oil filter?
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

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CJ


850CSi

Quote from: Soup DeVille on October 13, 2012, 10:49:57 PM
You don't get a new oil filter gasket with every new oil filter?

I'm not sure, they may have been talking about the housing. They may have also been totally full of shit, as they often are. Either way, I'll have him look at it.





My indie claims that in his own experience the OEM BMW [Castrol] stuff isn't very good, and that using Pentosin has helped folks avoid VANOS failure.

There are only 3 long-term issues I'm aware of that tend to pop up on E90s:
-VANOS failure
-wheel bearings
-lifter tick

None of these things are catastrophically expensive to take care of, and people don't really seem to know if the lifter tick can actually cause a mechanical problem or just an aesthetic thing - mine aren't very loud. My indie claims that using Pentosin helps with the tick and VANOS issues. I feel like my left wheel bearing is going to fail at some point, but it hasn't acted up lately. I'll probably have to replace the water pump when it inevitably fails again in like 80k miles. Other than that, seems like E90s are fairly reliable long-term. I just need mine to not drive me cra$zy next year; after that I'll be fine. Going to make an offer to my dad tomorrow. I don't expect my parents to take anything for it, but I'll try.

TurboDan

#144
Quote from: 850CSi on October 14, 2012, 12:00:27 AM
I'm not sure, they may have been talking about the housing. They may have also been totally full of shit, as they often are. Either way, I'll have him look at it.





My indie claims that in his own experience the OEM BMW [Castrol] stuff isn't very good, and that using Pentosin has helped folks avoid VANOS failure.

There are only 3 long-term issues I'm aware of that tend to pop up on E90s:
-VANOS failure
-wheel bearings
-lifter tick

None of these things are catastrophically expensive to take care of, and people don't really seem to know if the lifter tick can actually cause a mechanical problem or just an aesthetic thing - mine aren't very loud. My indie claims that using Pentosin helps with the tick and VANOS issues. I feel like my left wheel bearing is going to fail at some point, but it hasn't acted up lately. I'll probably have to replace the water pump when it inevitably fails again in like 80k miles. Other than that, seems like E90s are fairly reliable long-term. I just need mine to not drive me cra$zy next year; after that I'll be fine. Going to make an offer to my dad tomorrow. I don't expect my parents to take anything for it, but I'll try.

I almost bought an E90 last year (it was my "car option" versus the SUV) and none of these little bugs would bother me. Every car has a couple things prone to breaking over long-term ownership. People complain about the water pump going 90K-ish, but isn't that when you do a timing belt replacement anyway that includes the water pump?

As for oil, my LR indie said the same thing WRT Castrol (which LR recommends officially and according to him is overrated), and recommended Total Oil. Personally, I'd throw any synthetic in there and drive away happy. Oil brand differences don't mean much to me.

As far as VANOS, this seems like an easy DIY fix: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:rKXIotCuJBwJ:www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D486201+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-a

Maybe I'm jaded, but wheel bearings, CV joints/boots etc. go all the time around here since I live on an island and we get flooded with salt water a few times a year. It's par for the course and no big deal.

I'd keep the E90 for the long haul, personally. At the end of the day it's an awesome car that has no more or less stumbling blocks than any other car, including Japanese cars. And you get one of the best driving experiences in the world to boot.  ;)

MrH

The fact that the long running thread about your car is in "The Garage" section speaks volumes about BMWs :lol:
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850CSi

#146
Quote from: MrH on October 17, 2012, 01:17:34 PM
The fact that the long running thread about your car is in "The Garage" section speaks volumes about BMWs :lol:

lol you ass :lol:

Really though, she's been just about as reliable as anything else I would've considered. Most of the money I/dad have spent on her in the past few years has been on general maintenance stuff (oil/brakes/rotors/etc.).

But wow... I'm over 80k now. I've put almost 20k miles on her in the past 10 mos. or so...  :mask:

Ever since the coolant/battery shens last year, she's been perfect. Like I said earlier, money will be a little tight next year, but not after that, so maintaining the E90 won't be a problem. She's here to stay. She just desperately needs an interior/exterior detail.


I'll hopefully drop her off next week at my indie, get him to
-Do the CDV removal
-Check the oil filter gasket housing thing
-Check my e-brake - it's pretty weak, probably needs adjustment
-See if he can do my emissions test so I can renew my plates back home

850CSi

#147
Quote from: TurboDan on October 14, 2012, 12:43:52 AM
I almost bought an E90 last year (it was my "car option" versus the SUV) and none of these little bugs would bother me. Every car has a couple things prone to breaking over long-term ownership. People complain about the water pump going 90K-ish, but isn't that when you do a timing belt replacement anyway that includes the water pump?

I believe the timing chain is a lifetime part.

Water pump really isn't that bad, but it quit on me at a bad time. I was on my way to D.C. Luckily I was only an hour out from home - had I been in bumfuck, VA it would've been much more inconvenient.

QuoteAs for oil, my LR indie said the same thing WRT Castrol (which LR recommends officially and according to him is overrated), and recommended Total Oil. Personally, I'd throw any synthetic in there and drive away happy. Oil brand differences don't mean much to me.

That's what I always thought, and Pentosin isn't cheap, but it isn't super expensive anyways.

QuoteAs far as VANOS, this seems like an easy DIY fix: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:rKXIotCuJBwJ:www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D486201+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-a

Maybe I'm jaded, but wheel bearings, CV joints/boots etc. go all the time around here since I live on an island and we get flooded with salt water a few times a year. It's par for the course and no big deal.

Thanks for that. Was under the impression VANOS was a bigger deal than that.


I've already had a wheel bearing replaced, it cost like $700 because I had it done at the stealership. I need to figure out how to do these things myself.

QuoteI'd keep the E90 for the long haul, personally. At the end of the day it's an awesome car that has no more or less stumbling blocks than any other car, including Japanese cars. And you get one of the best driving experiences in the world to boot.  ;)

Yeah, I'm planning on keeping it until it dies. I just can't think of anything I'd rather have. I'm going to want a toy at some point, but that'd be an addition.

I asked my dad if I could buy it off of him yesterday. He looked at me and scowled. I'll try again. But I appreciate the generosity. :lol:

Rich

Wheel bearings are a bitch

And IME I haven't been able to get an out of state inspection/test done.  But it only matters if it's out of date when you get back in your home state.
2003 Mazda Miata 5MT; 2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 4AT

850CSi

Quote from: HotRodPilot on October 18, 2012, 04:58:58 AM
Wheel bearings are a bitch

And IME I haven't been able to get an out of state inspection/test done.  But it only matters if it's out of date when you get back in your home state.

Car's registration needs to be renewed, the IL people told me I just have to take it to any local testing center and send them the results the shop would normally send to NCDOT.