The G-spot

Started by SVT666, January 09, 2013, 05:30:19 PM

GoCougs

Quote from: SVT666 on March 31, 2013, 09:20:16 AM
First gear is short enough for me.  I really wouldn't want it to be shorter and have it be even jumpier in 1st.

You know, I think I know what your problem is. Once the car is rolling with light throttle it shifts into 2nd and if you floor it after it shifts into 2nd it won't drop back into 1st,so acceleration doesn't feel as brisk as you expect.  Standing starts are always quicker just because of that.  The only way you can get it to shift back into 1st is by taking manual control of the shifting...but I know that contradicts everything you believe in with regards to manually shifting an auto.

Yep, that's it - I have no idea what gear the car is in, nor do I have no idea how an AT works.

Laconian

Quote from: SVT666 on March 31, 2013, 09:20:16 AM
First gear is short enough for me.  I really wouldn't want it to be shorter and have it be even jumpier in 1st.

You know, I think I know what your problem is. Once the car is rolling with light throttle it shifts into 2nd and if you floor it after it shifts into 2nd it won't drop back into 1st,so acceleration doesn't feel as brisk as you expect.  Standing starts are always quicker just because of that.  The only way you can get it to shift back into 1st is by taking manual control of the shifting...but I know that contradicts everything you believe in with regards to manually shifting an auto.
Put it into first, then bang it back to D while you're going through the gears.
Kia EV6 GT-Line / MX-5 RF 6MT

GoCougs

Quote from: Laconian on March 31, 2013, 11:54:32 AM
Put it into first, then bang it back to D while you're going through the gears.

It will kick down into first when in D/DS + WOT but I find that speed has to be pretty low - ~10 mph or under.

There's definitely an art in not hitting the rev limiter in first. Downshifting into 1st and then immediately into D helps but it tends to short shift (~6,800 rpm). If I manually downshift into first I have to shift at ~6,200 rpm to get a good shift with safety margin (~7,300 rpm).


SVT666

Quote from: GoCougs on March 31, 2013, 11:10:27 AM
Yep, that's it - I have no idea what gear the car is in, nor do I have no idea how an AT works.
The car won't kick down to first.  It just doesn't.

Cookie Monster

God damn, shifting your automatics sounds more complicated than a manual.
RWD > FWD
President of the "I survived the Volvo S80 Thread" Club
2007 Mazda MX-5 | 1999 Honda Nighthawk 750 | 1989 Volvo 240 | 1991 Toyota 4Runner | 2006 Honda CBR600F4i | 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 | 1999 Honda CBR600F4 | 2009 Yamaha WR250X | 1985 Mazda RX-7 | 2000 Yamaha YZ426F | 2006 Yamaha FZ1 | 2002 Honda CBR954RR | 1996 Subaru Outback | 2018 Subaru Crosstrek | 1986 Toyota MR2
Quote from: 68_427 on November 27, 2016, 07:43:14 AM
Or order from fortune auto and when lyft rider asks why your car feels bumpy you can show them the dyno curve
1 3 5
├┼┤
2 4 R

Laconian

Quote from: thecarnut on March 31, 2013, 12:39:57 PM
God damn, shifting your automatics sounds more complicated than a manual.
If you're a control freak.

It's a really good transmission if you just let it do its thing.

I had some great redline runs yesterday and the traction control was blinking SLIP SLIP SLIP SLIP the whole time. Could've fooled me, I didn't perceive any bad behavior whatsoever. Point, shoot, go. I wonder how coddled I am by these nannies.
Kia EV6 GT-Line / MX-5 RF 6MT

GoCougs

Quote from: thecarnut on March 31, 2013, 12:39:57 PM
God damn, shifting your automatics sounds more complicated than a manual.

Absolutely it is, if you want maximum performance and control. The G37 AT is good but it's not perfect (IMO no slushie will ever be; ergo, DSG-type trannies).

SVT666

Quote from: thecarnut on March 31, 2013, 12:39:57 PM
God damn, shifting your automatics sounds more complicated than a manual.
I manually shift about 80% of the time I drive.  I just like to have control.

MX793

Quote from: GoCougs on March 31, 2013, 01:13:02 PM
Absolutely it is, if you want maximum performance and control. The G37 AT is good but it's not perfect (IMO no slushie will ever be; ergo, DSG-type trannies).

A DSG won't be perfect either.  It's still controlled by shift logic programming, and that is part of the problem with automatics.  Further, a DSG/SMG cannot skip gears as an automatic can.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

MrH

Quote from: SVT666 on March 31, 2013, 01:56:28 PM
I manually shift about 80% of the time I drive.  I just like to have control.

Ugh, that's more infuriating than enjoyable IMO.  It's more like suggesting the car shifts a few seconds in advance than it is actually shifting.
2023 Ford Lightning Lariat ER
2019 Acura RDX SH-AWD
2023 BRZ Limited

Previous: '02 Mazda Protege5, '08 Mazda Miata, '05 Toyota Tacoma, '09 Honda Element, '13 Subaru BRZ, '14 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec 5.0, '15 Toyota 4Runner SR5, '18 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0t, '01 Honda S2000, '20 Subaru Outback XT, '23 Chevy Bolt EUV

GoCougs

Quote from: SVT666 on March 31, 2013, 12:12:22 PM
The car won't kick down to first.  It just doesn't.

It does - have to be 10 mph or under though...

GoCougs

Quote from: MX793 on March 31, 2013, 02:47:20 PM
A DSG won't be perfect either.  It's still controlled by shift logic programming, and that is part of the problem with automatics.  Further, a DSG/SMG cannot skip gears as an automatic can.

IMO a DSG is perfect. The problem with slushie ATs isn't shift logic. AT shift logic and AT performance in general is limited by the response/power sapping and/or fragile thingies found in a typical slushie AT: pump, fluid, bands, clutches, springs, solenoids, valve body, etc. True, a DSG can't skip gears in theory but the practical effect is that its reactions are so fast that downshifts for a passing situation when in D (vs. a slushie AT) is faster.

Morris Minor

What are the performance numbers for a G37 auto? nought to sixty etc.
⏤  '10 G37 | '21 CX-5 GT Reserve  ⏤
''Simplicity is Complexity Resolved'' - Constantin Brâncuși

GoCougs

From what I've seen for G37 AT sedan in the various publications:

0-60:  5.0 - 5.2 sec
1/4 mile:  13.5 - 13.7 sec @ 100 - 102 mph.

Curiously, the base model G37 AT sedan is the fastest of the bunch owing to smallest wheels, least weight, and no AWD drag. The coupe is actually a bit heavier and has larger wheels, and the AWD and 'vert versions carry ~200 lbs more.

GoCougs

I'm winning the battle against squeaks and rattles!

For the very common center console squeak, I found the the culprit to be the plastic male/female connectors. I squirted each with lithium grease and problem is gone. It's a bit of work to get the shifter bezel off but here's a thread that describes how. Note they used foam tape to solve the problem but I didn't see that as a solution.

For the very common overhead sun glass door rattle, I just stuffed some foam tape up near the vicinity of the male portion of the latch. This effectively preloads the door when closed which doesn't leave any clearance for the door to rattle. Worked like a charm.

The common windshield clicking/creaking is a biggie. It comes and goes with me. Various threads have said the problem is some of the unitbody structure. One thread reported that the dealer had to remove the entire dash and perform some sort of adhesive process. If/when you guys get this my recommendation is to get into the dealer before the 4 yr/60k mile warrant is up.

SVT666

Either my car is an anomaly or yours is just a beat up rental....

CALL_911

There's a G37 in the same color as Cougs' with the same rims he bought afterwards in one of my friends' neighborhoods. Those rims look fucking good. IMO, the sport rims look better, but those are not bad.

The post-facelifted G37S looks absolutely fantastic. The more aggressive bumper coupled with those rims really do great things for the overall look of the car.


2004 S2000
2016 340xi

GoCougs

Winter gas must be gone as now I've gone from 19.5 - 20 mpg to 21.5 - 22 mpg with this last tank...

GoCougs

The aforementioned squeaks and rattles are confirmed gone. Makes a big difference. I'm due for for an oil change soon and will have the dealer address the popping sound at the base of the windshield (again; they did so once before and it's better but it still there a bit) at the same visit.

SVT666

Quote from: GoCougs on April 02, 2013, 08:53:45 AM
Winter gas must be gone as now I've gone from 19.5 - 20 mpg to 21.5 - 22 mpg with this last tank...
Not using Defrost anymore makes a big difference as well.

Laconian

Kia EV6 GT-Line / MX-5 RF 6MT

GoCougs

Quote from: SVT666 on April 02, 2013, 12:48:05 PM
Not using Defrost anymore makes a big difference as well.

I almost never use defrost but almost always use recirc (also keeps AC on full time in the G). AC doesn't suck a lot of MPG - certainly not 10%...

Laconian

Defrost uses a lot of gas?
Kia EV6 GT-Line / MX-5 RF 6MT

GoCougs

Quote from: Laconian on April 02, 2013, 04:25:08 PM
Defrost uses a lot of gas?

Defrost automatically turns on AC in the G and most all other cars (in the Tacoma I had I jury rigged the wiring such that it didn't FWIW). I think the line of thinking was that the AC compressor uses a bit of gas (which it does but IMO it can't be 10% of mpg). At least last year when into the warmer months I had climate control off a fair amount and was still getting 21.5 - 22 mpg.

SVT666

Quote from: Laconian on April 02, 2013, 04:25:08 PM
Defrost uses a lot of gas?
It uses the A/C compressor for dehumidification.  Normally A/C eats about 5-10% fuel economy depending on your car.

Laconian

Oh, I thought you were talking about the resistive heaters.
Kia EV6 GT-Line / MX-5 RF 6MT

Raza

Funny, with better weather comes worse gas mileage for me.  Just barely squeaked out 20mpg on my last tank.  Top down 100mph blasts and aggressive highway driving.  So much easier to drive aggressively with the top down. 
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
If you can read this, you're too close


2006 BMW Z4 3.0i
http://accelerationtherapy.squarespace.com/   @accelerationdoc
Quote from: the Teuton on October 05, 2009, 03:53:18 PMIt's impossible to argue with Raza. He wins. Period. End of discussion.

Cookie Monster

I didn't think using defrost took that much gas... I use it for about 10 minutes and then I turn it back off. The switching from winter to regular gas makes more sense.

Also after new exhaust my mpg has dropped by 2-3 mpg just so I can hear the exhaust under hard acceleration. :lol:
RWD > FWD
President of the "I survived the Volvo S80 Thread" Club
2007 Mazda MX-5 | 1999 Honda Nighthawk 750 | 1989 Volvo 240 | 1991 Toyota 4Runner | 2006 Honda CBR600F4i | 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 | 1999 Honda CBR600F4 | 2009 Yamaha WR250X | 1985 Mazda RX-7 | 2000 Yamaha YZ426F | 2006 Yamaha FZ1 | 2002 Honda CBR954RR | 1996 Subaru Outback | 2018 Subaru Crosstrek | 1986 Toyota MR2
Quote from: 68_427 on November 27, 2016, 07:43:14 AM
Or order from fortune auto and when lyft rider asks why your car feels bumpy you can show them the dyno curve
1 3 5
├┼┤
2 4 R

GoCougs

Quote from: thecarnut on April 02, 2013, 08:13:06 PM
I didn't think using defrost took that much gas... I use it for about 10 minutes and then I turn it back off. The switching from winter to regular gas makes more sense.

It doesn't - a modern automotive AC compressor draws relatively little power - imagine the power suck represented by a 10% drop in mpg ;). Ain't happening...

hotrodalex

Depends on the car. On my old Saturn, it was noticeable in both loss of power and mpg. In the BMW, it makes no difference. Don't think it affects anything on my mom's Mazda 6, either.