Brought home a Volt.

[SVT666]

Physical buttons that can change function depending on use. Integrate a small screen into the button and it could change its appearance to reflect the different function.

Which requires ones eyes to be diverted from the road.

[hotrodalex]

Which requires ones eyes to be diverted from the road.

Not really. Still a physical button, wouldn't be too hard to memorize the location of each different set up. Better than a pure touch screen or touch button.

[SVT666]

I disagree.  If a button changes functions after you press it, very few people are going to be able to memorize what it does depending on what button you pressed before it.

[hotrodalex]

I wouldn't make it change after every press. In my mind, it would only change when you switch to a completely different function. And even then, you could group the buttons so that they have similar uses in each menu. It's no different than memorizing where icons are on iDrive-type systems or your smart phone.

[SVT666]

It's totally different than smartphones since you never operate your smartphone without looking at it.

[hotrodalex]

It's totally different than smartphones since you never operate your smartphone without looking at it.

I could if it had physical buttons.

[Laconian]

http://www.artlebedev.com/everything/optimus/

But yes, I agree with Hemi, immutable functions for buttons and nice positive tactile feedback FTW.

[Rupert]

I'm OK with like a Cessna cockpit level of gauges and switches...

[ifcar]

Physical buttons that can change function depending on use. Integrate a small screen into the button and it could change its appearance to reflect the different function.

Volkswagen does this with the buttons around its audio screen.

[AutobahnSHO]

Not really. Still a physical button, wouldn't be too hard to memorize the location of each different set up. Better than a pure touch screen or touch button.

Great idea- and it could be super super simple. One main knob is radio volume OR fanspeed OR zoom on the nav.  Another knob is tuning OR temp on the a/c OR something else.   
Make verything logical and it would NOT require much input from the driver.

[Laconian]

I'm still not cool with changing layouts.

Do we really need all this simplification? What functions are absolutely necessary, anyways? I don't think we're much needier than we were in, say, 1995.

[NomisR]

Great idea- and it could be super super simple. One main knob is radio volume OR fanspeed OR zoom on the nav.  Another knob is tuning OR temp on the a/c OR something else.   
Make verything logical and it would NOT require much input from the driver.

BMW has a really neat idea

[ChrisV]

BMW has a really neat idea

the Volt has a center dial and button that scrolls through the menu, too. Not as intuitive, though...

[hotrodalex]

I'm still not cool with changing layouts.

Do we really need all this simplification? What functions are absolutely necessary, anyways? I don't think we're much needier than we were in, say, 1995.

Without simplification, we get cars with 50+ buttons on the center stack. Navigation, multiple music options, multiple climate controls zones, reverse cameras, etc. weren't around in 1995. We don't "need" them, but they're there.

[GoCougs]

Without simplification, we get cars with 50+ buttons on the center stack. Navigation, multiple music options, multiple climate controls zones, reverse cameras, etc. weren't around in 1995. We don't "need" them, but they're there.

I agree. Sure, they're not needs but the advancements in the last ~15-20 years are ginormous additions to driving.

The big ones for me:

1. Smart key including keyless ignition (never thought I'd say that till I bought a car with the functionality)
2. Backup camera (ditto)
3. Bluetooth integration (specifically, for smartphone nav and hands-free phone)
4. iPod integration
5. Heated seats
6. Stability control

What I've found useless:

1. Navigation
2. Multi/auto climate control
3. Voice recognition
4. Multimedia interfaces - MMI/COMAND/iDRIVE
5. Cooled seats

My predictions for what will come next (some we're already seeing on higher end cars):

1. Wireless/4G capability with in-car wi-fi to occupants (for streaming content; radio, maps, etc.)
2. Full touch screen controls interface and fully configurable dash/gauge cluster a la Tesla S
3. Steer-by-wire and brake-by-wire

[ChrisV]

6000 mile update. I love it. It's reasonably quick (280 lb ft of torque at "idle" will do that) and fun to drive, with decent handling and a bit of a sporty feeling. I drive with the trans in Low and with Sport mode engaged for better throttle tip in and agressive regen "braking" when you let off the throttle. The EV thrust is smooth and quiet and actually feels like a big engine luxury car (much like my 740iL). If you drive in D and in normal mode, it feels completely different, as there is little regen and it will coast forever, and you also have to use more throttle travel to make it accelerate quickly. Most people leave it in Normal and D for the test drive. Salesmen don't usually even know that there are other modes. You can use L gear all the way up to 100 mph, as it's not really another gear ratio, it just mimics the engine braking of a lower gear ratio by making regen aggressive. It's aggressive enough that I've been able to add a couple miles of range to the car just coming off an offramp of the highway and letting low gear slow the car and put energy back into the battery.

I find the premium leather seats to be more comfortable, and in my case, the Pebble Beige gives suede inserts on the seats and door panels (the black leather interior has no suede and the door panel inserts are smooth plastic.). The base interior is cloth, and it feels kind of cheap, to me. I'd definitely spring for one of the premium interiors. Also, there is a choice, with the black or base interiors, to have the center stack and instrument binnacle to be glossy white plastic or charcoal grey. I prefer the charcoal grey.

About 4 months back, my wife took it on a 1500 mile weeklong trip to CT and back, so she used some gasoline (it got over 50 mpg highway, even though it's only rated at 37, but theres a reason for that, as using hold mode works great). But since that time, I've gone another 4 months without putting fuel in it at all. I have used a couple gallons of gas, since one trip I went 65 miles in one day with no recharge, and a couple other times I used the 2013's "hold" mode to use gas on the highway in order to save electric range for city use.

Hold mode , like I've said before, allows you to use the gas generator when it's most efficient, and the pure EV modes for when they are most efficient. By using hold mode, the generator runs to "hold" the battery charge at whatever level it was on when you changed modes. It'll actually build charge and then shut the engine down while you are driving, as the engine is not used to drive the wheels, until you are doing close to 100 mph (I've had it over 80 mph in normal and sport modes and the engine never fires up...). By using Hold mode, you can improve engine efficiency on the highway to get closer to 60 mpg (lowest I've seen if 45 mpg). The car is rated at 37 mpg because the EPA tested it in normal mode and let the engine run after the battery was depleted, at which point you're using it to not only maintain the battery charge, but run at low speeds in town where it's just not as efficient.

Battery range has increased as the weather warms up. When I got it, "full" charge only indicated 34-37 miles, whereas now it's 43-45 miles when it's fully charged. I've gone the equivalent of 60 miles on a charge (used 5 kWh to go 30 miles), and gone the 8 miles one way to work on an indicated 2 miles of range, and I don't hypermile. I just drive it like a normal car.

Battery range is also affected by using the climate control settings. Fan only is what it says, and runs only the fans. Not bad most of the time, and uses very little power, so you maximize range. Eco is a setting that allows limited heating and AC (it uses electric heat and AC powered by the main battery pack), and works well to maintain temps even at local extremes (I've driven the car in as low as 15 degrees and as warm as 101 degrees since I've had it). Comfort is the max setting and will reduce range by a couple miles, but cools nicely in 95-100 degree heat (I use it to get it to temp in the cabin, then switch to Eco to maintain). In the winter, using the seat heaters will do wonders for inproving range vs using the cabin heater. I still wish it had a heated steering wheel.

The Volt does not drive the wheels with the gas engine EXCEPT in certain rare instances which I've never experienced.

I charge the car every night with the stock 120V charger. It's habit to pull in, pop the cover and plug in. Takes about 10 seconds to do. There are two charge modes on 120v (and one 240V mode if you have a Level 2 charger). On basic charge (8 amp draw) it'll take about 10 hours to charge. On the high draw charge (12 amp draw) it'll take about 6 hours to charge fully. But since I rarely use more than half the range in daily use (I only go 15-25 miles per day in commuting and errand running) I usually charge in 4 hours with the 120v charger even on the 8a draw. So far since I got the car in February, my electric bill hasn't changed at all vs the same time last year (and has gone down every month as the weather warmed up)

If you guys test drive one, make sure of two things:
1) make sure the car is charged (so many aren't) and then
2) drive for a bit in mormal mode (default) and D. Then put it in Sport mode and Low gear (they drive all the way up to 100 mph in low gear). Feel the difference in torque delivery for throttle position, and engine braking in Low. Punch it repeatedly from about 15-20 mph. Giggle a bunch. Seriously.

Some of the negative things...

The flexible air dam is quite low and scrapes on everything.

I wish it had a heated steering wheel. I did go buy some conductive gloves for winter use, though.

I wish it retained sport mode when you shut it off, instead of having to select it every time I start the car up.

On those lines, I wish it retained the charge mode every time, in stead of having to select 12a charging every time I shut the car off before I plug it in. Normally I leave it in 8a mode as I don't need it charged until late, but if I could leave it in 12a mode, that would be cool.

Rear legroom is kind of tight. I never need 5 passenger seating, so 4 seats is fine, but a 6 footer doesn't fit well in back for longer trips.

Lastly, the A pillars are huge and do interfere a bit with blind left turns, as the driver's side pillar tends to block a lot of what's coming at you and can make it harder to place the car in faster twisties or parking lots. This is a problem I've seen in a lot of new cars, though, in trying to make rollover protection better.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

How are the tires on this thing? Anything decent or something specifically made for the volt(low rolling resistance, special tread pattern, etc).

[ChrisV]

low rolling resistance run flats. They do their job, though, but will make noise if pushed hard at the limit.

[NomisR]

I don't know if you posted it, but how much additional electricity to do consume a month now vs before the Volt?

[ChrisV]

I don't know if you posted it, but how much additional electricity to do consume a month now vs before the Volt?

It's in the review, but comparing month to month from previous years, it looks like there is no noticeable increase vs the same time last year (and as the weather warmed up, the electric bill dropped anyhow). I calculated it out by driving range and cost per kWh and it SHOULD be about $8-10 a month more than previous years, but the variations from year to year are within a very small range, so I can't say for sure that I'm using more or less than I would be otherwise. I only use about 4 kWh per day in the car on weekdays, and there's about 20 weekdays per month, so, @ 10 cents per kWh, it averages out to $8 in electricity for commuting and errand running per month.

[Byteme]

It's in the review, but comparing month to month from previous years, it looks like there is no noticeable increase vs the same time last year (and as the weather warmed up, the electric bill dropped anyhow). I calculated it out by driving range and cost per kWh and it SHOULD be about $8-10 a month more than previous years, but the variations from year to year are within a very small range, so I can't say for sure that I'm using more or less than I would be otherwise. I only use about 4 kWh per day in the car on weekdays, and there's about 20 weekdays per month, so, @ 10 cents per kWh, it averages out to $8 in electricity for commuting and errand running per month.

If you are really interested in tracking how much it costs to "fuel" it, one of these devices might be useful.

http://www.cableorganizer.com/power-meter/

[NomisR]

I might as well add some stuff of my own after one week of ownership..

Fucking HOV land usage is awesome.  I have less assholes to deal with.. except the ones that slows down to outside traffic speed because they're fucking assholes.

I can get about 48-50 miles on a charge depending on traffic.  If there's no traffic, then the EV range actually goes down but I can still squeeze 42-44 miles out of the battery, but in nice stop and go, 50 miles isn't a problem. 

But what I really hate about the car is really the front air damn that would scratch stuff that I normally wouldn't on my Elise.  I have to drive like my car's lowered to avoid scrapping. 

And seriously, for a car that's close to $40k, it's still pretty cheap looking inside.  I mean WTF.  there's a charging door release button on the remote and it's not used?  Why not just take it out?  And then little details that you would not find on a European or Japanese car because it cheapens it..  but hey, with government tax credit.. why the hell not..

[Eye of the Tiger]

Junk.

[2o6]

That button is supposed to open the electric charging door; just checked it on a volt just now.



The other button starts the heater when its cold.


And BTW it feels IMO more expensive than a Prius....

[NomisR]

That button is supposed to open the electric charging door; just checked it on a volt just now.



The other button starts the heater when its cold.


And BTW it feels IMO more expensive than a Prius....

Yeah, the charging door button on the 2014 doesn't work, you simply push the door and it opens, no need for remote operations anymore. 

And I've only tried it once so I'm not positive but it seems like the gas door button inside the car is fake too because I can open the gas door by pushing on it as well. 

[Madman]

And seriously, for a car that's close to $40k, it's still pretty cheap looking inside.  I mean WTF.

Keep in mind most of that 40 grand went to the drivetrain and the technology inside the car, not the passenger cabin.

Even at that price, I'm sure GM is losing a bucket full of cash on every one they build.

[CJ]

Yeah, the charging door button on the 2014 doesn't work, you simply push the door and it opens, no need for remote operations anymore. 

And I've only tried it once so I'm not positive but it seems like the gas door button inside the car is fake too because I can open the gas door by pushing on it as well. 

I'd bet it unlocks the charging door, not pops it open.

[GoCougs]

How Kalifornian it is to let hybrid/EV drivers use the HOV lane.

[Soup DeVille]

The only thing I keep thinking about the Volt is:

This drivetrain would make the perfect basis for a personal submarine.

[Galaxy]

The only thing I keep thinking about the Volt is:

This drivetrain would make the perfect basis for a personal submarine.

Like this?

http://www.motioncodeblue.com/project/migaloo-private-submersible-yacht/



Personally I would go with fuel cells for a private sub.