I hate dealerships

[SVT666]

I took my Explorer into the dealership because I had a few things I wanted them to have a look at.  First of all, my brakes.  I knew the front rotors were warped and needed to be turned, but I wanted them to check the pads at all 4 corners while they were at it.  Next was my transmission because it has been shifting extra hard lately.  And finally, at 60+ mph I get a little shimmy. 

Their findings:

1. Front rotors are warped, but need to be replaced because their isn't enough material left to be turned.  Rear rotors are thin and should be replaced.  Pads are toast at all 4 corners.  Cost: $1100

2. Transmission shifter solenoid is starting to go.  Cost: $1550

3. Tires are wearing unevenly and need to be replaced and 4 wheel wheel alignment required.


I went and bought the brakes and had a independent mechanic replace them because I just can't find the time to do it myself.  Brakes: $400  Labour: $240

BUT WAIT!  I just picked up my Explorer and he tells me he turned the front rotors and there was plenty of material there.  The rear rotors are fine and I will likely get several more years out of all my rotors.  The pads were shot, so he replaced them.  I took the rotors back.  Brakes Pads: $110   Labour: $150

He had a look at the tires and said there is no uneven wear but the tread is separating on one tire.  He also said the wheel alignments are within spec.  So I need to buy two tires so the overall diameter is the same since the tires are almost 2 years old now.

This has me questioning the transmission shifter solenoid and whether or not that the real culprit.  That's a shit load of money to spend if it's not the reason.

[Eye of the Tiger]

If the tranny is shifting extra hard, then why would it be a bad solenoid? Okay, it could be, but is that they only symptom? And is it consistent, or does it sometimes hesitate and/or not shift at all? Hard shifting, alone, would more likely be a sticky/broken accumulator spring, which doesn't really do anything other than soften shifts, anyway.

[GoCougs]

So the independent didn't turn the rear rotors?

[SVT666]

So the independent didn't turn the rear rotors?

He did.  I was referring to the fact that the dealership said the fronts weren't possible.

[SVT666]

If the tranny is shifting extra hard, then why would it be a bad solenoid? Okay, it could be, but is that they only symptom? And is it consistent, or does it sometimes hesitate and/or not shift at all? Hard shifting, alone, would more likely be a sticky/broken accumulator spring, which doesn't really do anything other than soften shifts, anyway.

It's intermittent and when it happens it slams into gear.

[Eye of the Tiger]

It's intermittent and when it happens it slams into gear.

Is it a particular gear, and is there any hesitation?

[SVT666]

Is it a particular gear, and is there any hesitation?

No hesitation and no particular gear.  It happened three days ago and the transmission light came on.  I shut the truck off and started it again and the light went out and the gear changes went back to normal.  That happened two weeks ago as well and the same thing cured the problem. 

[Gotta-Qik-C7]

No hesitation and no particular gear.  It happened three days ago and the transmission light came on.  I shut the truck off and started it again and the light went out and the gear changes went back to normal.  That happened two weeks ago as well and the same thing cured the problem. 

It's not a bad U Joint is it?

[SVT666]

It's not a bad U Joint is it?

No.

[Eye of the Tiger]

No hesitation and no particular gear.  It happened three days ago and the transmission light came on.  I shut the truck off and started it again and the light went out and the gear changes went back to normal.  That happened two weeks ago as well and the same thing cured the problem.

Did the dealership say exactly what solenoid they thought it was? If it is occuring in all gears, I am leaning towards the torque-converter-clutch being stuck on.

[SVT666]

Did the dealership say exactly what solenoid they thought it was? If it is occuring in all gears, I am leaning towards the torque-converter-clutch being stuck on.

It would happen sometimes when the transmission needed to drop a gear to go up a hill.  The two instances where the transmission light came on, the drop into 1st gear when slowing to a stop was almost violent.  It slammed into gear with a giant thud.  But like I said, turning the truck off and then back on again got rid of the problem.

As for the solenoid, they just said "shifter solenoid".

[Eye of the Tiger]

It would happen sometimes when the transmission needed to drop a gear to go up a hill.  The two instances where the transmission light came on, the drop into 1st gear when slowing to a stop was almost violent.  It slammed into gear with a giant thud.  But like I said, turning the truck off and then back on again got rid of the problem.

As for the solenoid, they just said "shifter solenoid".

Well, they sound like assholes. Next time it happens, try to be conscious of whether the torque converter clutch is locked up or slipping. The hard 1st gear downshift while stopping really makes me think TCC solenoid.

[Secret Chimp]

$1100 for brakes? Lulz

[SVT666]

$1100 for brakes? Lulz

That's going rate at all the dealerships.  I called around.  That's why I said fuck it and did it the way I did.

[veeman]

don't you know, you're supposed to get hosed at dealerships.  finding a good local mechanic who's familiar with the make and model of your car will save you thousands.  trouble is, finding one.

i go through the same thing with them.  i just paid 900 dollars to a local buick dealership to have my air-conditioning fixed.  a hose was torn and all the coolant leaked out.  i was just too lazy to go shop around for a legit local mechanic.  that laziness costs me every time because my cars are out of warranty except for the powertrain.

[GoCougs]

Couple of comments:

Warped rotor usually means bad rotors (the whole of the rotor is warped - i.e., runout is out of spec) - turning 'em may only mask the problem for a time. It could be back. Dealer could have performed a runout measurement/analysis.

~$500/axle sounds about right if they did new pads + new rotors + new calipers + labor. I had rear brakes done on the G (turned rotors + new pads) for $290 at the dealer.

[SVT666]

Couple of comments:

Warped rotor usually means bad rotors (the whole of the rotor is warped - i.e., runout is out of spec) - turning 'em may only mask the problem for a time. It could be back. Dealer could have performed a runout measurement/analysis.

~$500/axle sounds about right if they did new pads + new rotors + new calipers + labor.

Calipers dramatically increase the cost well beyond $500 an axle.

I had rear brakes done on the G (turned rotors + new pads) for $290 at the dealer.

I paid that for all 4 at the independent shop.

[GoCougs]

I have been a bit disappointed in my Infiniti dealer. They've told me some BS - needed a new serpentine drive belt and full AT/t-case/diff fluid change at 35,000 miles. The former had no wear (and wasn't mentioned on later visits) and the AT/t-case/diff fluid is lifetime fill. They also harp on the 3,750 mile OCI.

[SVT666]

I go 10,000 km between oil changes.  I do that at a quick oil change place for $80 instead of the $130 the dealership charges...and it's done in 10 minutes, and it's Infiniti warranty approved.

[GoCougs]

Calipers dramatically increase the cost well beyond $500 an axle.
I paid that for all 4 at the independent shop.

Pricing doesn't sound right.

I'd never go to an independent. Ever. Just gotta be smart about filtering dealer/chain BS.

[GoCougs]

I go 10,000 km between oil changes.  I do that at a quick oil change place for $80 instead of the $130 the dealership charges...and it's done in 10 minutes, and it's Infiniti warranty approved.

Jesus. Something isn't right with these prices. I live in what is considered a higher cost area and pay nothing close to your prices.

[GoCougs]

Oh, and my hunch is your AT is gonna be toast relatively soon. What typically causes these smaller failures in ATs is when the bands and clutches start to wear excessively.

[SVT666]

Pricing doesn't sound right.

I'd never go to an independent. Ever. Just gotta be smart about filtering dealer/chain BS.

Have you ever bought an entire brake system before?

There is nothing wrong with independents if you do your due diligence.  I don't trust dealerships as far as I can throw them.

[SVT666]

Infiniti G37 OEM brake system including calipers is $1200 on eBay.  Add labour to that and you are at $1000 per axle.

[GoCougs]

Infiniti G37 OEM brake system including calipers is $1200 on eBay.  Add labour to that and you are at $1000 per axle.

No (US) dealer will ever charge anything close to $2,000 for a routine, even full (rotors + pads + calipers), brake job, for a G37x. For my recent job if they had to do new calipers and rotors it might have gotten to $500/axle.

[SVT666]

No (US) dealer will ever charge anything close to $2,000 for a routine, even full (rotors + pads + calipers), brake job, for a G37x. For my recent job if they had to do new calipers and rotors it might have gotten to $500/axle.

Call and ask man.  It's not cheap.

[Onslaught]

I loved dealerships. They paid me more and I worked on new cars and not old ones.

[Raza]

This is something I'm worried about with the BMW since I have no relationship with any BMW dealers.  My coworker has a BMW guy that he trusts, but he's not exactly conveniently located to me. 

[Cookie Monster]

No (US) dealer will ever charge anything close to $2,000 for a routine, even full (rotors + pads + calipers), brake job, for a G37x. For my recent job if they had to do new calipers and rotors it might have gotten to $500/axle.

You are way off on your estimations. For my car, MSRP for parts alone for calipers, pads and rotors is $860 per axle, and that's for some relatively small calipers and rotors. Your G would definitely cost more than that. With labor it'd easily be $1300+ per axle.

[GoCougs]

Infiniti G37 OEM brake system including calipers is $1200 on eBay.  Add labour to that and you are at $1000 per axle.

You are way off on your estimations. For my car, MSRP for parts alone for calipers, pads and rotors is $860 per axle, and that's for some relatively small calipers and rotors. Your G would definitely cost more than that. With labor it'd easily be $1300+ per axle.

Have you guys ever done your own brakes??? I think you guys are nuts. For the G37x on the NAPA site (which is what many chains like Schwab, Big-O, Firestone, etc., use, and who I used when I did such things). Averages, fronts are bit more expensive than rears:

Rotors: ~$45 ea
Calipers: ~$100 ea
Pads: ~$30 ea

~$350/axle for OEM-equivalent parts if you bought them yourself. Dealer will get a big discount but will of course mark them up. Bottom line is the world of brake repair would disappear in a day if a full brake job cost $2,000-$2,500+ for a regular car.