Char's E92 Build thread

[MrH]

Yeah, they're supposed to.  My PSS10s clicked, and all the double adjustable shocks I worked with do too.

How old/how many miles are on this set?

[MrH]

Check the adjuster yourself.  You can see how it looks here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNGd4eBoKtk

[Char]

They should definitely click. A smooth range would suck.

Hmm....

[r0tor]

The click vs no click is just a function of how you assemble the top end on the pss9s... I remember playing with that when I installed mine - the click is just a little ball bearing that flops into dimples on the adjuster, if it's not tight enough it doesn't click

[Char]

The click vs no click is just a function of how you assemble the top end on the pss9s... I remember playing with that when I installed mine - the click is just a little ball bearing that flops into dimples on the adjuster, if it's not tight enough it doesn't click

The adjusters on the E90 are under the strut itself.

Headers installed, midsection installed and I finally have my stage 3 AFLA N tune here, about to be installed. Intake is in the mail, should be here Wednesday - and then I hit the dyno.

[AutobahnSHO]

[Char]

ALFA N tune installed, uses a MAP sensor, and I had to order a European IAT sensor (to replace the MAF) but I had to get in from overseas, the part isn't available in the US.

The tune is pretty nice, more torque and tbe redline is bumped to 7500 which is really awesome. However, my idle bounces and I have a CEL...so that will have to be fixed.

Going to dyno it Thursday and take it to the track that evening if I can.

[Char]

No dyno yet, but I did take it to the track.

Previous best MPH was 93.X (almost 94mph)
Current best MPH is 98.89

Almost there...

[68_427]

Nice improvement there

[Char]

Thank you!
Ultimate goal is 101+mph - realistic goal is 99-100mph.

I've got some ideas, including switching out the stock intake (with the crusty 4)K + unchanged paper filter) so we'll see.

[Char]

Got a new dyno, 247/217 SAE, the car had E85 in it, but it caused the car to run rich...so update the tune file, run 9n 93 and redyno.

[68_427]

You're making me wanna save up and tear down the EG33 and order cams and shit.  STAHP

[Char]

You're making me wanna save up and tear down the EG33 and order cams and shit.  STAHP

I am having hardware issues, but the car can (and will) actually do more power - it's fun, you should try it.

[68_427]

I am having hardware issues, but the car can (and will) actually do more power - it's fun, you should try it.

Maybe after a year or two.  They don't even make head bolts for that engine anymore so I'm stuck with pricey ARP hardware.  A rebuild with cams and such would be in the $2K range.  The stock JDM engines are rated at 240hp, and my car isn't that heavy (Edmunds says under 3200lbs).  Combined with 4.44 axle ratios it should be pretty energetic.

[Char]

Car is still having an intake issue I can't pin down - but it's driving better and it's pretty quick and torquey. Looking to do suspension and brakes next.

[Char]

I ran E85 in the car once, and I think it's what lead to my issues.

Fuel pump is probably going, vanos solenoid needs to be cleaned, and I broke a part on the valve cover and it needs to be replaced.

Shit.

But, after this, it should purr - hopefully 100mph+traps and uber reliable. I want to hit Sebring this year.

Also planning on a CO system, my suspension is needing help.

[CaminoRacer]

[Soup DeVille]

I need that dog.

[Char]

Graph is in STD instead of SAE like I normally use, and you'll notice in the first picture the car is running really rich. I was an idiot, and thought I could cool the intake charge by having some E85 in there - since the car targets Lambda and not AFR - that's the result.

Now that I have all the issues on the car sorted (mostly, clutch was defective, will be replacing it again) I'll go back and get a proper dyno.

[Char]

Also, you can thank Mr.H42 for bringing me back!

[MexicoCityM3]

Also, you can thank Mr.H42 for bringing me back!

[68_427]

GREAT ANOTHER PERSON TO CLOG THE VIDEO GAME THREAD WITH THAT PORN CARTOON FETISH GAME

[Char]

I'm going to take a break from Engine mods (the car makes good power, but could be more civil) but I have a leak on the Valvecover again. Looks like it wasn't seated right when it was opened last time and it's leaking oil on the headers, and it smells terrible. So if I have to jump back in there, I figuremight as well install new valvetronic lifters.

Basically no one makes cams for the valvetronic motors, and stock lift is limited to a measly 9.9mm (9.7mm actual, probably) of lift. Well one of the guys on the forum modified the rocker for the valvetronic cam to add more lift...like .5mm more:

2006 Manual 330i N52 with 3 stage intake
Mods:
BMW performance intake
BMW performance Exhaust
BPC Tune

Red: Before tune adjustment after installing the mod
Blue: Tune adjustments to only the valvetronic maps


(Those are actually my rockers I bought and gave to them to test) Pretty solid gains I'd say. The guy came back with a new set of rocker, modified further to increase the lift to almost .9 - 1mm, so we'll see what they do.


I'm actually looking at a new set of tires, refresh the brakes (SS lines, new fluid, pads and backing plates) and looking into different suspension options.

[Char]

Ever since I got my car back for the clutch replacement and valve cover replacement, I've noticed that my car was leaking oil. The VC is new, the gasket/etc are new, so what could it be? I assumed it was just a result of the valve cover being pinched in the rear and causing oil to leak out - it happens all the time. I decided it was a good opportunity to do a modified Valvetronic support as well





I did this mod, and went with a 1mm support - which is good and bad.

The bad:
Completely untested (well, they did test it on a turbocharged N52 - crazy gains) but in the long term, any potential for increased wear or failure?
Completely useless without a tune (and any tune makes me a beta tester)

The Good:
-If tuned, works well (like stock)
-Power

Got everything buttoned up, and the car drove and acts like normal. As expected, because the car doesn't know that the lift has been increased, it functions basically the same -



These are the valvetronic lift tables, showing you the amount of lift at different points for the eccentric cam location. In theory, the car can make 9.9mm of lift stock. However, they never hit that point, and hit a stopping point at 9.7mm. Another thing you'll note is most of the resolution is at the lower lift tables, likely because the cam/valves act like a throttlebody.

From my friend Chris

The actual safe maximum is about ~178 degrees - so it looks like with the modified rocker ratio, 10.5mm of lift [on the .5mm supports] should be possible even with a stock cam.

Notice most of the resolution in the curve is at the low end - I think that's the critical part to get correct, as that will affect most of the low load/drivability areas. Once you get to the end of the curve, the valves are mostly open and it probably matters less.

Here is a little more detailed information on it, if you care to read (based on the .5mm version) -

So I modified a piece of the Valvetronic valve train and tried it on the N52 test engine I have on the stand.
I am able to measure Eccentric cam angle position and actual valve lift.

So at maximum intake cam lift, I measured and plotted out the stock Eccentric cam position vs valve lift.

Due to the not running engine, the hydraulic lifters were bled down which lost about 1mm of valve lift. I was able to plot from 0* Ecc Cam position to 174* position and got valve lift numbers from 0 to 8.7mm.
Plots below- ADD 1mm to value to get true engine running lifter pumped up valve lift.

Then using the modified part, I remeasured everything and got minimal change, 0.2mm, from Ecc Cam 50* to 140* and above 140* picked up 0.5mm of valve lift.

So it looks like with the modified part, there is minimal valve lift change from 0-140* Ecc Cam position and 0.5mm more intake valve lift between 140-174* Ecc Cam position which corresponds to about 80% to WOT position.

100* Ecc Cam position - stock 5.029mm valve lift - modified 5.156mm valve lift
110* Ecc Cam position - stock 5.663mm valve lift - modified 5.817mm valve lift
120* Ecc Cam position - stock 6.172mm valve lift - modified 6.426mm valve lift
130* Ecc Cam position - stock 6.655mm valve lift - modified 6.910mm valve lift

140* Ecc Cam position - stock 7.122mm valve lift - modified 7.366mm valve lift
150* Ecc Cam position - stock 7.569mm valve lift - modified 8.103mm valve lift
160* Ecc Cam position - stock 8.103mm valve lift - modified 8.611mm valve lift
170* Ecc Cam position - stock 8.560mm valve lift - modified 9.093mm valve lift
174* Ecc Cam position - stock 8.712mm valve lift - modified 9.347mm valve lift

[Char]

Anyhow, the supports are in and I'm testing a few different tunes out - the WOT maps are pretty much the same, so we are working on part throttle driveability. The oil leak is still there, and it was discovered to be a result of a cracked valve cover - I've order a new one, and will return the defective one (OEM at that!) for a full refund. It's just not a fun job.

As far as power - it's definitely noticeable, and I assume that it will get better when things get sorted. It feels like a solid 15whp at the high end, and about 10wtq bump in torque at the low end.

[MrH]

Your butt cheek calibration is amazing.

[Char]

Your butt cheek calibration is amazing.

I've been pretty spot on with my estimates, dyno confirmed.

[mzziaz]

If you had an EV, you'd save yourself the whole oil leak headache. Just sayin'

[CaminoRacer]

If you had an EV, you'd save yourself the whole oil leak headache. Just sayin'

[12,000 RPM]

That was really good