The New E-Class Coupe

[MX793]

This is a worst case scenario for any kind of driving. High load + little to no air flow over and over. On the street in traffic you don't need a ton of power, and moving on the highway you will have airflow. Big thing with turbos is even if there is heatsoak they can just up the boost or w/e to maintain output. N/A can't

Stop and go traffic on a hot day induces as much or more heat soak than a 45 second auto-x run.  That's why the TC guys also don't idle their cars, unless they aren't up to temp, in the staging grid when waiting for their runs, even their first run.

Simply dialing up more boost pressure introduces a number of issues.  For starters, higher stress and strain on most of the key parts of the engine.  And the more you compress air, the more heat you introduce into it.  Heat adds more wear and tear as it causes oil to break down more quickly, and ultimately there's only so much that the car's cooling system can take before your radiator does its best impression of Old Faithful.  Also increase detonation risk, which results in the motor pulling spark timing, and therefore power, anyway.  Even DI engines do this.

And I'm not sure if you really understand how boost is controlled in a turbocharged car.  The vast majority of turbochargers on the market utilize only a wastegate to manage boost pressure.  These systems are designed such that the wastegate is closed over a good portion of the engine RPM range, meaning you have zero boost control over that RPM range.  At higher RPMs, when the wastegate normally does start to open to prevent excessive compressor speeds and over-boost, a control system could conceivably open it less or later to get some more boost pressure.  But the fact remains that these setups cannot just dial up more boost wherever and whenever they want.  Variable vane setups have more control, but those are very rare in gasoline engines because they don't hold up well to the high temperatures and therefore suffer reduced reliability, Dialing up more boost, and heat, to try to overcome air density lost to heat is not going to do them any favors.

TL;DR - TC engine output will wax and wane with outside air temperature changes the same as an NA engine will, but the TC motor is more prone to self-induced heat-related power loss.

[GoCougs]

That means you don't have enough power

More than most (and likely you ), particularly that carb'd engines, since they lose even more power with such altitude changes.

[CaminoRacer]

Ha! Nah I got you beat by almost 70.

Not that I have enough power either. What's that quote again? If you can leave two strips of rubber between each corner, you have just enough power.

[GoCougs]

Ha! Nah I got you beat by almost 70.

Not that I have enough power either. What's that quote again? If you can leave two strips of rubber between each corner, you have just enough power.

475-500 hp? I'm gonna say no, if I'm remembering your stats correctly, I was seeing like 300-350 gross, which puts you at up 50-100 hp down (and even if I'm not, such a thing is very rare, and without EFI and roller cam, not really even streetable).

[MX793]

475-500 hp? I'm gonna say not a chance, if I'm remembering your stats correctly, I was seeing like 300-350 gross, which puts you at up 50-100 hp down (and even if I'm not, such a thing is very rare, and without EFI and roller cam, not really even streetable).

When did you get a 400+ hp car?

[CaminoRacer]

Yeah I'm going off a 328 HP G37

[12,000 RPM]

Canali sportcoat is good for about 70-90 HP usually

[GoCougs]

When did you get a 400+ hp car?

February 2012. 328 hp net = ~410 hp gross. IIRC Alex is more like at 300-350 hp gross (which is typical), not 480 hp gross.

[CaminoRacer]

I've since upgraded to an engine with roller cam, 10.5:1 compression, etc. ~400 hp

[GoCougs]

So, still not more .

[CaminoRacer]

That's an estimate of net. The difference gross vs. net on my engine is also probably minimal, considering I'm running headers, a free-flowing air cleaner, electric fans, and the only accessories are an alternator and PS pump (which takes practically no power to spin if you aren't turning)

[GoCougs]

What are all your specs?

[CaminoRacer]

5.8L, 8 cylinders, OHV, black paint, synthetic oil, new single piece rear seal, dipstick on the passenger side, cool red paint in the lifter valley for better oil flow, dual valve springs, 180F thermostat, ARP stainless steel header bolts (only on the driver's side - regular black coated bolts on the passenger side), half quart oil filter (yeah I know, need to get a larger one. Next time)

Anything else you wanna know, just tell me!

[GoCougs]

To get ~450 gross hp from a 350 SBC you need some fairly serious hardware, let alone a 10.5:1 CR. What are all the specs?

[CaminoRacer]

I'm not gonna bother digging out the cam grind sheet so I can measure my dick in an E-class thread.

[GoCougs]

What is the basis for such a precise estimate in power?

[CaminoRacer]

If you couldn't tell from two posts up when I first diverted the conversation to silliness, I'm uninterested in measuring dicks on the internet. It's a rough estimate that it's putting out ~400 at the crank with everything hooked up. But I'm not going to dig out every single receipt to remember every single spec from an engine built >6 years ago to prove to a random internet dude that my V8 makes more than his V6. Because even that wouldn't really be proof, the only real proof would be a dyno test. But then you would complain about chassis dynos being useless, so I'd have to take the engine out of the car to get a measurement at the crankshaft. No thanks