Ha!

280Z Turbo · October 05, 2006, 11:05:54 PM

Quote from: VTEC_Inside on September 28, 2006, 09:02:20 PM
Could have gotten one of these:

:)

They don't need trailers?

Sure they do. How do you get your autocross tires to the track?

Rupert · October 07, 2006, 07:41:26 PM

On the car, duh. Just makes it more fun on the way there.

Rupert · October 07, 2006, 07:45:39 PM

Oh, yeah, fuck it. I'm just gonna pay someone to fix the damned timing. I set it by the light, but now the stumbling hesitation is worse (whenever I accelerate hard). So the distrib is pretty definitely off. While I think I can get it set closer to where it should be, I want to to be exactly where it should be. Damn it all. All, I say!

Raza · October 07, 2006, 07:45:40 PM

Drugs make everyone more creative.

Rupert · October 07, 2006, 07:53:19 PM

Yeah, last time I did something mechanical while under the influence of more creativity, I stripped the crank puller and the crank, while still not getting it off the bike.

Raza · October 07, 2006, 09:11:21 PM

I was talking mostly about the trailer. But being as drunk as I am, I didn't bother to clarify, since it made sense to me.

Rupert · October 08, 2006, 02:56:22 PM

Heh...

Rupert · October 09, 2006, 11:35:41 PM

I was reading my Haynes manual yesterday... Is it even possible to put a distributor in wrong? If it is, and mine is in wrong, how would I fix it? The manual says the first cylinder has to be at TDC to install a distributor, but the only way it gives to find TDC is with the distributor, which would be giving me a wrong reading.

Also, when fucking around with the timing, the light wasn't firing consistently. The engine was stumbling or anything, so I figure it's the insulation on the wires blocking the inductive pick-up. Make sense?

I'd take it to a mechanic and just get it over with, but I'm a touch po' for the next couple months.

VTEC_Inside · October 10, 2006, 01:13:12 AM

Start it up at night and look for arcing in the dark. You should probably replace the plug wires and the plugs while your at it. Have you cleaned up the contact points on the cap and rotor? If the light isn't firing consistently than I would guess that neither is #1 cyl.

If it were me I'd replace the cap and rotor first since they are relatively cheap and then continue your quest.

As for the distributors position. I think that you've made a pretty safe assumption that its more or less where it belongs. If it wasn't you'd probably be experiencing a lot more trouble than you are.

Rupert · October 10, 2006, 11:14:02 PM

I did replace the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires before I even started with the timing.

What about the ignition coil? That would cause missing, but would it also cause hesitation/stumbling under load? When I set the timing to 10 BTDC by the light, the hesitation got much worse, which I thought was because the timing and distributor were off.

VTEC_Inside · October 11, 2006, 08:33:24 AM

Quote from: Psilos on October 10, 2006, 11:14:02 PM
I did replace the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires before I even started with the timing.

What about the ignition coil? That would cause missing, but would it also cause hesitation/stumbling under load? When I set the timing to 10 BTDC by the light, the hesitation got much worse, which I thought was because the timing and distributor were off.

The coil was going to be my next suggestion.

Do you know what the resistance is supposed to be through it?

While you are there you can inspect the wiring to it as well.

Rupert · October 11, 2006, 07:01:00 PM

Heh, I don't have an ohmeter...

VTEC_Inside · October 11, 2006, 07:03:35 PM

Quote from: Psilos on October 11, 2006, 07:01:00 PM
Heh, I don't have an ohmeter...

I'm sorry, but I actually lol'd when I read that.

Any chances of picking up another coil from a wreckers?

Rupert · October 11, 2006, 09:16:27 PM

Hehehe.

I can check. It's a 2.8L Chevy engine, so the part should be common enough. New it's only $65 shipped...

Rupert · October 11, 2006, 09:18:11 PM

Whadya think? I could buy the coil from the local Schucks or whatever, and if it doesn't fix it, d'you think they'd accept the return? Hmm, that's prolly a good idea.

Rupert · October 13, 2006, 12:21:15 AM

Heh, the cheapie at Schucks is $35... We'll see by Monday, I hope.

Rupert · October 17, 2006, 12:38:46 PM

Yeah, so there's no compression in the fifth cylinder.

Danish · October 17, 2006, 04:11:19 PM

Quote from: Psilos on October 17, 2006, 12:38:46 PM
Yeah, so there's no compression in the fifth cylinder.

ouch!

VTEC_Inside · October 17, 2006, 04:44:20 PM

Quote from: Psilos on October 17, 2006, 12:38:46 PM
Yeah, so there's no compression in the fifth cylinder.

Ugh. If that aint a kick in the balls. I'd cry, but only for a little bit, then I'd smash it with a sledge hammer.

footoflead · October 17, 2006, 05:48:08 PM

Quote from: Psilos on October 17, 2006, 12:38:46 PM
Yeah, so there's no compression in the fifth cylinder.

Ouch, dude you have the absolute worst luck with cars.

Sorry to hear that

J86 · October 17, 2006, 05:50:55 PM

Wow, dude, nothing to say but I'm sorry.

Do you want me to find a car for you? So far, all the cheap-o cars I buy or advise friends to buy are all running strong (knocks on wood...)

Rupert · October 17, 2006, 06:08:53 PM

I'd set fire to it, and every other car I've owned since the first Trooper, but then I'd be commiting felonies and not getting the little it's worth. Grrrrrr...

J86 · October 17, 2006, 08:43:32 PM

get a subaru!

Rupert · October 17, 2006, 10:53:55 PM

Maybe... I don't think I'm gonna have the money for a car for a year or few. Besides, I really like Troopers (that run).

VTEC_Inside · October 18, 2006, 08:21:47 AM

Were you able to determine why its not holding any compression?

That engine has to be a dime a dozen, is a swap a potential idea?

Raza · October 18, 2006, 12:25:21 PM

I suggest you fix it, and as soon as it's working perfectly, you sell it and get something else.

Rupert · October 18, 2006, 08:53:37 PM

Har.

The mechanic (I gave up after I got stranded on a test drive) says it's a burned valve. The lowest quote I found to fix that is $1300. Then there's the ignition module, which is what the mechanic says was the cause of the hesitation, etc. A new engine would be more expensive. Besides, if I'm going to go to the trouble of putting another engine in there, it's gotta be an Isuzu deisel. My only hope is a merciful grandparent...

VTEC_Inside · October 18, 2006, 10:47:48 PM

Quote from: Psilos on October 18, 2006, 08:53:37 PM
Har.

The mechanic (I gave up after I got stranded on a test drive) says it's a burned valve. The lowest quote I found to fix that is $1300. Then there's the ignition module, which is what the mechanic says was the cause of the hesitation, etc. A new engine would be more expensive. Besides, if I'm going to go to the trouble of putting another engine in there, it's gotta be an Isuzu deisel. My only hope is a merciful grandparent...

What are you getting quotes for? ie What work?

I'm thinking you could get a decent pair of heads off a wrecker engine, and just make it a swap job.

Rupert · October 19, 2006, 01:29:44 AM

Hmm, that's a thought. Any idea on a cost for that? I was getting quotes on replacing the valve...

It seems like a bit of a risk to put that much money into a truck worth, in perfect condition, no more than a couple grand. The block still has the same miles and the same wear as the head. Besides, I don't think I could afford more than about $400 in parts and labor, and I'm not into the idea of potentially botching a job that big by doing it myself.

VTEC_Inside · October 19, 2006, 08:38:41 AM

Quote from: Psilos on October 19, 2006, 01:29:44 AM
Hmm, that's a thought. Any idea on a cost for that? I was getting quotes on replacing the valve...

It seems like a bit of a risk to put that much money into a truck worth, in perfect condition, no more than a couple grand. The block still has the same miles and the same wear as the head. Besides, I don't think I could afford more than about $400 in parts and labor, and I'm not into the idea of potentially botching a job that big by doing it myself.

I don't know about the prices, but again I can't imagine they would be that much considering how many of those engine there were/are.

Heck, maybe you can find a place that sells rebuilt heads ready to go.

Perhaps I'm a little too eager to replace both heads at the same time. Maybe someone else could pipe in on the possibility of just replacing the bad one.

I'm all for fixing parts, but in this case I think your most expensive route is going to be having that head pulled and essentially rebuilt. At this point you still don't know why that valve got fried. There are a couple of unknowns($$$) until you get the head off.

Ha!

280Z Turbo