SHIT!

[Rupert]

Thanks, I'm on it...

[Rupert]

A friend of mine who drove the same truck for a long time (but his was a '92) came over to check it out. He thinks it's a vacuum problem because it gets worse as the engine warms up. It starts with the revs just falling slowly, and ends with them actually climbing while the truck is in gear and driving (it accelerates). I have no idea how to diagnose a vacuum leak insofar as finding the leak goes.

[JWC]

A friend of mine who drove the same truck for a long time (but his was a '92) came over to check it out. He thinks it's a vacuum problem because it gets worse as the engine warms up. It starts with the revs just falling slowly, and ends with them actually climbing while the truck is in gear and driving (it accelerates). I have no idea how to diagnose a vacuum leak insofar as finding the leak goes.

Check all your vacuum lines...anything looks suspect, even the slightest dry-rot, crack or tear, replace it. 

[Raghavan]

Psilos, you're basically controlling the speed of the truck with the clutch then?

[FlatBlackCaddy]

I'm having trouble understand your problem.

Does this truck have cruise control?

Sounds like its possible the cruise can be causing these problems, i'd try unhooking the cable and see if it goes away.

[Rupert]

No cruise.

With the vacuum lines... I dunno if I can even find all the lines. I think I'll probably just have a person who knows what's up do it, since that way they can check other things that I might not think to check. Here's to hoping I can get someone to check it out on Tuesday morning!

If I were to drive it, I'd control the speed of the engine with both the clutch and the brake, so that when it's in gear, I can keep the speed down with the brake.

[Rupert]

I'm having trouble understand your problem.

When I start the truck, it's fine. As it warms up, the problem gets worse. At first, when I put the clutch in while moving (so that the revs are already above idle), the revs fall more slowly than they should. Then the revs stop falling at all and kind of stay where they were before I put the clutch in. At this point you can jab the accelerator (clutch in) or take the clutch out a little (so it slips) and the revs fall slowly back to idle.

When everything is pretty warm, after driving around the block a couple of times, the revs start to rise after the clutch goes in while moving, and the only way to control it is with the clutch--slipping it so the engine has to move the speed you're going. Finally, when it's in gear and the clutch is out, the truck actually accelerates a bit unless you use the brake. At this point, the only way to control the revs is by using the brake with the truck in gear. I haven't been able to replicate the problem while the truck is parked.

[Rupert]

Yesterday when I took it to the mechanic, it was fine, and they couldn't replicate the problem. They checked the IAC and the vacuum lines, finding nothing wrong. They did replace the battery cables since they were super corroded and partially broken. They said that the 'puter might have been getting too little power and thinking something was wrong when it wasn't, and the problem was the 'puter's attempt to fix the problem. At any rate, I drove for seven hours yesterday, and it was fine.

[S204STi]

That might have been it.  The car was undercharging due to corroded battery cables, and the car was trying to increase RPM to deal with it.

[footoflead]

Yesterday when I took it to the mechanic, it was fine, and they couldn't replicate the problem. They checked the IAC and the vacuum lines, finding nothing wrong. They did replace the battery cables since they were super corroded and partially broken. They said that the 'puter might have been getting too little power and thinking something was wrong when it wasn't, and the problem was the 'puter's attempt to fix the problem. At any rate, I drove for seven hours yesterday, and it was fine.

Often times it is the simplest things that make us beat our heads against the wall 


Glad it wasn't anything...terminal...like in the past 

[Eye of the Tiger]

That might have been it.? The car was undercharging due to corroded battery cables, and the car was trying to increase RPM to deal with it.

wow, cars are too smart now... usually they'd just die when that happens 

[Rupert]

Yeah, no kidding. Oh, for the days of engine bays you could stand in!

[Rupert]

Often times it is the simplest things that make us beat our heads against the wall 


Glad it wasn't anything...terminal...like in the past 

Seriously... I was starting to think that a) I should stop trying to own a car, and b) I should start believing in god.

[S204STi]

Still no problems so far?

[Rupert]

I haven't driven it.

[footoflead]

Seriously... I was starting to think that a) I should stop trying to own a car, and b) I should start believing in god.

You could make your very own CAR GOD, that would solve all of your problems.

An occasional sacrifice to appease him/her/it and you good to go  .

btw-does not reflect my religious beliefs



if that does not work, i would strongly recommend option A, cars do not last long around you my brother lol

[Raza]

I think he's made enough sacrifices to the car gods.

[footoflead]

I think he's made enough sacrifices to the car gods.

[Rupert]

Seriously...

[Danish]

I think he's made enough sacrifices to the car gods.

Personally, I think he is cursed until he rights some past wrong

[SVT_Power]

Personally, I think he is cursed until he rights some past wrong

[Rupert]

Personally, I think he is cursed until he rights some past wrong

I've considered that, but I can't afford a Miata now.

[SVT_Power]

I've considered that, but I can't afford a Miata now.

At least you know what you did wrong 

[850CSi]

I've considered that, but I can't afford a Miata now.

You know, the first step towards solving a problem is admitting it... 

[Rupert]

I don't have a car problem! I can stop any time I want!

[Rupert]

When I start the truck, it's fine. As it warms up, the problem gets worse. At first, when I put the clutch in while moving (so that the revs are already above idle), the revs fall more slowly than they should. Then the revs stop falling at all and kind of stay where they were before I put the clutch in. At this point you can jab the accelerator (clutch in) or take the clutch out a little (so it slips) and the revs fall slowly back to idle.

When everything is pretty warm, after driving around the block a couple of times, the revs start to rise after the clutch goes in while moving, and the only way to control it is with the clutch--slipping it so the engine has to move the speed you're going. Finally, when it's in gear and the clutch is out, the truck actually accelerates a bit unless you use the brake. At this point, the only way to control the revs is by using the brake with the truck in gear. I haven't been able to replicate the problem while the truck is parked.

On noes! It's back. I drove the Ranger across town today, and towards the end of the drive from home, the same problem began. It happened all the way home. The battery terminals have a bit of corrosion on them, so I suppose I'll start by getting rid of that. *sigh*

On the bright side, it's been 8000 miles since the last trip to the shop.

[280Z Turbo]

Too bad you didn't get the Mazda engined one.

It's better in every way.

[Rupert]

Which one is the Mazda engine?

[280Z Turbo]

Which one is the Mazda engine?

2.3L DOHC Duratec.

[edit] Duratec 23
The Duratec 23 is a 2.3 L (2261 cc) version of the Mazda-designed Duratec 20. Bore is 87.4 mm and stroke is 94 mm. It has an aluminum engine block with cast iron cylinder liners and aluminum DOHC cylinder heads. It uses SFI fuel injection, has 4 valves per cylinder and features fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods and a one-piece cast crankshaft.

The 23EW was built in Chihuahua, Chihuahua, Mexico for use in the American market Focus through the 2007 model year. The Ford Focus version does not have VVT, and its output is 151 hp (113 kW) at 5750 rpm with 154 ft?lbf (209 N?m) of torque at 4250 rpm. A VVT version of this engine is used on the Mazda6, Ford Fusion, and Mercury Milan producing 160 hp (120 kW).

The 23NS is built in Dearborn, MI for the Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series. Output is 143 hp (107 kW) at 5250 rpm with 154 ft?lbf (209 N?m) of torque at 3750 rpm.

Applications:

23EW
2003-2007 Ford Focus
23NS
2005 Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute
Ford Ranger/Mazda B-Series
The Duratec 23E is a version of the Duratec 23 with California PZEV emissions.

An Atkinson cycle version is used in the Ford Escape Hybrid, Mercury Mariner Hybrid, and Mazda Tribute Hybrid.

[Rupert]

Ah, yes. They made those in 2000.