So my car's at the stealership (you can see where this is going...) getting its wheel bearing swapped out (which apparently they're having one hell of a time with... Mechanic supposedly spent all afternoon yesterday getting the old one out... I hope they don't readjust their estimate...).
I has a question -
After a night out in the cold, my instrument cluster has been acting up. I could post a video but basically the gas gauge gets stuck at empty and vibrates quickly. The rest of the cluster fails to read anything (Odo/Speedo don't work). Back when I lived up north this used to happen only in the mornings where we got subzero temps but it's been happening at progressively warmer temperatures. We probably haven't had a night colder than 15-20 here and whenever it's cold enough for my windshield to frost it generally happens.
I dropped the car off and noted the issue to them. He called me back later that day. His claim was that a diagnostic check revealed that multiple systems on the car are reporting low voltage. He says that especially consistent with the need to change the battery is the fact that the issue has been happening at ever higher temperatures.
This makes some sense to me, as the battery is probably almost 6 years old at this point. But then again, my car hasn't had any real trouble starting.
Question 1: Is his theory plausible? At what point do the car's electronics start running off of the alternator alone? It'll usually take a couple of minutes, but after I get going the instrument cluster will suddenly come to life.
So then I ask him for an estimate expecting $200ish and he says "$504"
WTF? You're telling me it's going to cost you as much to replace my fkin battery as replacing a WHEEL BEARING!?
I mean fine, I get that labor is expensive and I'd be getting an OEM battery and whatever but seriously!? And it's not like my battery is that difficult to access, IIRC it's in a panel in the trunk's side lining that's easy to remove. He could tell I was shocked so he goes on and tells me how batteries from Autozone are useless and I'll end up having to buy an OEM battery anyways "because of all of the electronics in the car." Which sounds like utter bullshit.
Question 2: Would an OEM battery really have any discernible advantage over a Duralast or whatever? Aren't the car's electronics run off of the alternator anyways?
I'm going to call the indie shop that did my ceramic brake pads and see how much he wants. I also need the microfilter replaced anyways. I would change the battery myself but apparently the car's system has to be reset. I might just change it myself and ask the shop to reset it.
Buy a quality battery and put it in yourself. You'll save at least 300 bucks!
The car should start using the alternator for power as soon as it's running.
6 years is pretty old for a battery, especially if it spent a good chunk of its life in colder climates. I like to change mine every 4 or so. Low voltage can damage components (like starter motors).
Where does BMW stash the batteries in the newer 3ers? That could be part of the reason why it's so expensive, the $500 may include installation and removal labor (with the battery probably costing ~$200). I had an engineering professor who once went on a tirade about how BMW's engineers stupidly decided to put the battery in the X5 (which he owned at the time) under the floor of the cargo compartment and removing it require quite a bit of disassembly (there was some sort of luggage organizer or something that had to be removed) plus a special tool to remove the cover of the battery compartment so that the average person could not change their own battery.
Quote from: MX793 on January 22, 2011, 11:07:46 AM
The car should start using the alternator for power as soon as it's running.
6 years is pretty old for a battery, especially if it spent a good chunk of its life in colder climates. I like to change mine every 4 or so. Low voltage can damage components (like starter motors).
Where does BMW stash the batteries in the newer 3ers? That could be part of the reason why it's so expensive, the $500 may include installation and removal labor (with the battery probably costing ~$200). I had an engineering professor who once went on a tirade about how BMW's engineers stupidly decided to put the battery in the X5 (which he owned at the time) under the floor of the cargo compartment and removing it require quite a bit of disassembly (there was some sort of luggage organizer or something that had to be removed) plus a special tool to remove the cover of the battery compartment so that the average person could not change their own battery.
WOW!
The standard auto-parts-store batteries often have pro-rated warranties, and I know Advance Auto Parts offers free installation. How temperamental can an entry-level BMW be?
The only reason I'd ever get an OEM battery is if I had no other option (no domestic brand makes the battery I need, for instance).
Definitely go the Indie route on this one. Sounds like BMW price gouging, and I'm typically supportive of dealers.
Can't you just have the battery checked to see if 'low voltage' really is an issue?
Seriously, if there was a voltage issue I'd think he'd be getting a little battery indicator lighting up on his gauges.
Yeah, that's a completely ridiculous price. Assuming it is the battery, you can get an OEM level replacement for well under $150. Even if you had to replace the thing every two years instead of 4-6 years, you come out ahead.
But I'm not convinced that it is the battery.
I bet $500 seems like a steal to many BMW owners that think highly of the monetary value of their time.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on January 22, 2011, 12:42:28 PM
Seriously, if there was a voltage issue I'd think he'd be getting a little battery indicator lighting up on his gauges.
Once running, the alternator provides power and so long as that is functioning properly, you won't get a low voltage indicator. The low voltage warning is generally an indicator of a faulty alternator.
$500 is way too much for a battery, you can get an Optima around $150 to $200
Quote from: MX793 on January 22, 2011, 01:40:13 PM
Once running, the alternator provides power and so long as that is functioning properly, you won't get a low voltage indicator. The low voltage warning is generally an indicator of a faulty alternator.
What I'm saying is if his gauges are acting funny due to a low voltage issue the battery light should be coming on. Even in today's cars I doubt it's triggered by much more than a set voltage threshold that the current in the car has to pass under for the light to come on.
Quote from: Mustangfan2003 on January 22, 2011, 02:33:56 PM
$500 is way too much for a battery, you can get an Optima around $150 to $200
Or $60-100 for a just-as-good regular battery.
Well he might pay a little more than $100 for a batter for his car if it's in the trunk because they are vented, but not much more.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on January 22, 2011, 02:35:14 PM
What I'm saying is if his gauges are acting funny due to a low voltage issue the battery light should be coming on. Even in today's cars I doubt it's triggered by much more than a set voltage threshold that the current in the car has to pass under for the light to come on.
Depends on where the voltage sensor for the low voltage warning light is. The gauges may be getting low voltage, but the sensor may not.
And I question if the gauge issue is really due to a weak battery. If it's really just low voltage from a weak battery, they should function normally once the engine is running and alternator power is applied. I have to wonder if it isn't some kind of cold-induced short circuit or broken connection in the gauges.
The "battery light" on cars is not really about the battery, but about the charging system. It generally only comes on with an alternator problem. The problem here sounds just like low battery voltage from a weak battery.
The charge at the dealership, and probably one where you're going to end up paying anyway, probably includes diagnostics and a charging system test.
What was the division of labor/battery?
I don't buy the battery explanation. As others have noted, once the car is running it shouldn't matter unless the voltage regulator and/or alternator has gone to shit.
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on January 22, 2011, 04:09:23 PM
I don't buy the battery explanation. As others have noted, once the car is running it shouldn't matter unless the voltage regulator and/or alternator has gone to shit.
It still matters. The battery is part of the charging system and a weak battery usually has sulfation, which leads to a short, which leads to erratic gauges and operation of other systems. The battery is never completely out of the loop.
Quote from: JWC on January 22, 2011, 04:52:31 PM
It still matters. The battery is part of the charging system and a weak battery usually has sulfation, which leads to a short, which leads to erratic gauges and operation of other systems. The battery is never completely out of the loop.
Well, I suppose I shouldn't be so quick to completely dismiss it, but its a bit of a knee-jerk reaction to the dealer "diagnosis" especially when followed by that ridiculous quote to replace it.
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on January 22, 2011, 07:39:18 PM
Well, I suppose I shouldn't be so quick to completely dismiss it, but its a bit of a knee-jerk reaction to the dealer "diagnosis" especially when followed by that ridiculous quote to replace it.
Well, let's assume the battery is at least $250.00 at the dealer. Diagnostic at the dealer, computer and charging system, is probably around $150.00. That leaves $100 for install and some of these vehicles don't put batteries in the easiest places to access.
Sounds about right to me. Now, the problem is doing the retest, that is usually included as part of the job, and finding the alternator is damaged from trying to keep a faulty battery charged...burning up the diodes. Then it will get expensive.
That happened on our Focus. One failed due to the other's failure. That was almost $700.00 for a Ford. We had an extended warranty though with a $100 ded.
When I think I need a new battery, I take it into the car store, give them $70 for a new one, and then spend the two minutes putting it in myself. :huh:
Quote from: Rupert on January 22, 2011, 09:24:10 PM
When I think I need a new battery, I take it into the car store, give them $70 for a new one, and then spend the two minutes putting it in myself. :huh:
YEAH, BUT HOW MUCH IS YOUR TIME WORTH?! YOU'RE AN IMPORTANT GUY!
Quote from: Laconian on January 22, 2011, 10:41:04 PM
YEAH, BUT HOW MUCH IS YOUR TIME WORTH?! YOU'RE AN IMPORTANT GUY!
screw getting a new battery, might as well buy a brand new car.
Quote from: Mustangfan2003 on January 22, 2011, 02:33:56 PM
$500 is way too much for a battery, you can get an Optima around $150 to $200
Get an Interstate- $120 and they'll olast as long as that Optima and cost $60-80bucks less. We use the mega-tron in our patrol cars and they're completely worry free fro the entire time we own the patrol cars- we put them in when they get upfitted.
Quote from: rohan on January 23, 2011, 06:56:29 AM
Get an Interstate- $120 and they'll olast as long as that Optima and cost $60-80bucks less. We use the mega-tron in our patrol cars and they're completely worry free fro the entire time we own the patrol cars- we put them in when they get upfitted.
Our Accord uses an Interstate battery with the Honda label on it and we've gone through 3 in 4 years. That's a problem.
Quote from: CJ on January 23, 2011, 11:30:44 AM
Our Accord uses an Interstate battery with the Honda label on it and we've gone through 3 in 4 years. That's a problem.
Very possible that it's something other than the battery. I've a very hard time believing that you got 3 bad batteries. Methinks something else in the car is malfunctioning and smoking the battery.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 23, 2011, 11:34:51 AM
Very possible that it's something other than the battery. I've a very hard time believing that you got 3 bad batteries. Methinks something else in the car is malfunctioning and smoking the battery.
Pardon my lack of eloquence...but it's a stupid car and I hate it. We've had this one for 2 years and all is well. I have no clue why the first two sucked. One tested bad, the other just died.
We have Interstate batteries in all 48 department vehicles including all our patrol cars- it's the only one we use because they go for so long and are so reliable. We replace them at 5 years if the vehicle stays with us and I haven't seen a single one fail. I'm pretty sure even our boats have their marine batteries and I'm pretty sure all our county road trucks have them to since they do our maint. Your car is probably got something really wrong with it.
Quote from: rohan on January 23, 2011, 11:51:15 AM
We have Interstate batteries in all 48 department vehicles including all our patrol cars- it's the only one we use because they go for so long and are so reliable. We replace them at 5 years if the vehicle stays with us and I haven't seen a single one fail. I'm pretty sure even our boats have their marine batteries and I'm pretty sure all our county road trucks have them to since they do our maint. Your car is probably got something really wrong with it.
This stupid car has been hit or miss since we bought it.
my brother just bought a Duralast replacement battery for his E46 M3 for just around $100. it was a bit tight having to wrestle the old one out and the new one into the trunk, and we had to figure out how to reconnect the ventilation hoses for the battery fumes, but nothing that warranted $400 in labor.
While you are out getting a $500 battery you need to get a bottle of blinker fluid.
Quote from: Mustangfan2003 on January 23, 2011, 06:54:57 PM
While you are out getting a $500 battery you need to get a bottle of blinker fluid.
don't forget a new 710 cap. genuine BMW parts only.
Dude, for $500, I can probably get myself a Voltphreaks battery or something...
Quote from: The Pirate on January 23, 2011, 11:34:51 AM
Very possible that it's something other than the battery. I've a very hard time believing that you got 3 bad batteries. Methinks something else in the car is malfunctioning and smoking the battery.
I am, of course, not a mechanic but I know a thing or two about this stuff.
It sounds an aweful lot like an overcharging problem, which will burn a battery faster than almost anything else you can do. Overcharging is a big problem with marine batteries, and once they get a few overcharges they just refuse to hold a charge anymore. It can be damned frustrating trying to figure it out as well.
Quote from: Vinsanity on January 23, 2011, 06:57:22 PM
don't forget a new 710 cap. genuine BMW parts only.
I was thinking; could be the hephaestian bypass has a post selenoidal dual-looping introversion effect causing the anti-absorption ratio of the kuneutson valve filter to fall below the normal saturation point.
Quote from: hounddog on January 24, 2011, 08:41:42 PM
I was thinking; could be the hephaestian bypass has a post selenoidal dual-looping introversion effect causing the anti-absorption ratio of the kuneutson valve filter to fall below the normal saturation point.
prescription: blinker fluid flush and a new 710 cap.
Maybe need to replace the 710 fluids with the newer synthetic ultra-high kelstrate saturation level stuff.
Have heard great things about the newer stuff.
I'm going to call my indie mechanic and see how much he wants to just do this himself. If it's under $200 I'll just take it to him.
I wonder if a place like NTB can reset my system.
The issue really is that after the battery is installed the system has to be reset. Apparently the battery can explode if improperly installed.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468750&highlight=battery
Well you can plug a memory saver in the OBD II port.
By the way, Randy is having to replace the battery in his car now.
Told me the dealership told him to save $200 and just put in an Interstate himself.
Their battery was about $275 plus $100 for install, but the Interstate is something like $160 for the one his car needs.
Quote from: CJ on January 23, 2011, 11:30:44 AM
Our Accord uses an Interstate battery with the Honda label on it and we've gone through 3 in 4 years. That's a problem.
Why is it that anything you guys use in your cars fail? You claimed Falken tires are junk because you guys went through a set in 5k miles or something which is practically impossible in everyday driving. Now 3 batteries in 4 years?
What the hell do you guys do with your cars?
:lol:
Good catch, SVT.
Seems like someone is a little full of himself. :lol:
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 02, 2011, 08:12:53 AM
Why is it that anything you guys use in your cars fail? You claimed Falken tires are junk because you guys went through a set in 5k miles or something which is practically impossible in everyday driving. Now 3 batteries in 4 years?
What the hell do you guys do with your cars?
Also, the 7th gen Honda Accord that is constantly on fire.
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 02, 2011, 08:12:53 AM
Why is it that anything you guys use in your cars fail? You claimed Falken tires are junk because you guys went through a set in 5k miles or something which is practically impossible in everyday driving. Now 3 batteries in 4 years?
What the hell do you guys do with your cars?
What he is to cars is what Sub is to electronics. :lol:
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 02, 2011, 08:12:53 AM
What the hell do you guys do with your cars?
(http://www.dukesonline.com/images/DukesFest2002.jpg)
I got taken on a NAPA store-brand battery this spring: $120 for the dinkiest thing they had in stock. I've had great luck with Walmart's $60 whatevers in the past.
At least that's ($60) how much they used to cost. Maybe they've just gotten more expensive everywhere.
I paid about that for a NAPA battery last week.
Quote from: Tave on April 04, 2011, 11:15:02 PM
I got taken on a NAPA store-brand battery this spring: $120 for the dinkiest thing they had in stock. I've had great luck with Walmart's $60 whatevers in the past.
At least that's ($60) how much they used to cost. Maybe they've just gotten more expensive everywhere.
I bought a battery for my car in February. Knew it was coming, so had a chance to price out some options. Walmart was $86. I opted for the Duralast at Autozone, it was $95. Batteries have definitely gotten more expensive.
Just for shits and grins, I went to Alldata to see what's involved in replacing the battery. What a clusterf*ck. :lol:
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 02, 2011, 08:12:53 AM
Why is it that anything you guys use in your cars fail? You claimed Falken tires are junk because you guys went through a set in 5k miles or something which is practically impossible in everyday driving. Now 3 batteries in 4 years?
What the hell do you guys do with your cars?
I didn't claim all Falken tires are junk, just those Ziex ZX512, or whatever they are. I have a set of Sincera SN828's on my 940 and I like them quite a lot. And the batteries? I don't know what's up with those. This one's been fine since we got it. We had the car in for an oil change when we got this battery and the old battery tested bad...so they replaced it under warranty.
Our Camry has never had anything major wrong with it. The coolant temp sensor and thermostat need to be replace right now, but that's it. It currently has a set of brand new Kumho something's on it. They're rated fairly good for this car
Ok, car is having trouble starting now as it gets colder outside. It probably hasn't dropped below 30 yet and it's having a hell of a time starting when I've left it overnight.
Probably just going to take it to Autozone and then I'll just take it to the stealership to have them reset the system (apparently only charge 30 min labor for this) so it charges right. Should any Group 48 battery work?
I bought a $60 battery from Meijer that starts the Bravvy up like it was fresh off the factory line every morning, even if it is 20 or below.
Economy of scale?
I have a Die Hard in my winter Smug Bug and it hasn't let me down yet.
Quote from: 850CSi on January 22, 2011, 10:17:50 AM
I mean fine, I get that labor is expensive and I'd be getting an OEM battery and whatever but seriously!? And it's not like my battery is that difficult to access, IIRC it's in a panel in the trunk's side lining that's easy to remove. He could tell I was shocked so he goes on and tells me how batteries from Autozone are useless and I'll end up having to buy an OEM battery anyways "because of all of the electronics in the car." Which sounds like utter bullshit.
Question 2: Would an OEM battery really have any discernible advantage over a Duralast or whatever? Aren't the car's electronics run off of the alternator anyways?
I'm going to call the indie shop that did my ceramic brake pads and see how much he wants. I also need the microfilter replaced anyways. I would change the battery myself but apparently the car's system has to be reset. I might just change it myself and ask the shop to reset it.
A couple of questions:
Since your battery is in the trunk it is probably sealed and vented (like a Miata battery). Have you checked to see if that's what you have?
Is the battery one that has special construction like a Miata?
If yes to those questions it might be a bit more expensive but $500? Come on. Size and cold cranking amps are about all that matters. If the aftermarket battery is, at a minimum,. the same or better then it will be perfectly fine. Also, the Autozone batteries seem to last quite a while, they are not second rate. And the last time I checked Walmart was selling batteries made by Johnson Controls, a very large and respected maker of batteries.
Quote from: 850CSi on January 29, 2011, 09:24:48 AM
I'm going to call my indie mechanic and see how much he wants to just do this himself. If it's under $200 I'll just take it to him.
I wonder if a place like NTB can reset my system.
The issue really is that after the battery is installed the system has to be reset. Apparently the battery can explode if improperly installed.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468750&highlight=battery
Some places will install a battery for free when you buy it there.
Quote from: 850CSi on December 13, 2011, 03:14:43 PM
Ok, car is having trouble starting now as it gets colder outside. It probably hasn't dropped below 30 yet and it's having a hell of a time starting when I've left it overnight.
Probably just going to take it to Autozone and then I'll just take it to the stealership to have them reset the system (apparently only charge 30 min labor for this) so it charges right. Should any Group 48 battery work?
Go to Autozone's web site and check on batteries and input your car year, make and model. They will tell you what fits and how much it will cost. Walmart will do the same thing and I think they install it for a nominal fee, they may even reset the system. Remember this likely won't be the first BMW they've seen.
Quote from: MiataJohn on December 13, 2011, 05:09:45 PM
A couple of questions:
Since your battery is in the trunk it is probably sealed and vented (like a Miata battery). Have you checked to see if that's what you have?
Is the battery one that has special construction like a Miata?
If yes to those questions it might be a bit more expensive but $500? Come on. Size and cold cranking amps are about all that matters. If the aftermarket battery is, at a minimum,. the same or better then it will be perfectly fine. Also, the Autozone batteries seem to last quite a while, they are not second rate. And the last time I checked Walmart was selling batteries made by Johnson Controls, a very large and respected maker of batteries.
I've heard pretty much all car batteries are made by johnson controls :huh:
Quote from: SVT_Power on December 13, 2011, 05:19:57 PM
I've heard pretty much all car batteries are made by johnson controls :huh:
I'VE HATED JOHNSON CONTROLS EVER SINCE THEY TOOK DOWN THE COCONUT CART GAME. :lockedup:
Quote from: 850CSi on December 13, 2011, 03:14:43 PM
Ok, car is having trouble starting now as it gets colder outside. It probably hasn't dropped below 30 yet and it's having a hell of a time starting when I've left it overnight.
Probably just going to take it to Autozone and then I'll just take it to the stealership to have them reset the system (apparently only charge 30 min labor for this) so it charges right. Should any Group 48 battery work?
Yes.
I'd look into a K DCan cable if you want to register the battery yourself.
Quote from: SVT_Power on December 13, 2011, 05:19:57 PM
I've heard pretty much all car batteries are made by johnson controls :huh:
Maybe so. Last time I looked they were making the OEM Motorcraft batteries as well.
Ok, I think I got ripped off today and I'm going to go back to the shop and demand a [partial] refund.
Dude quoted me $290 for an Interstate AGM battery, installed and coded. That's not a bad price considering these batteries run for around $200 and basically anywhere I go is going to charge me an hour's labor for the coding (and it probably took longer than that anyways)
This is what is now in my trunk:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/Products/RT/PID-MTP-48~H6(Automotive+Truck).aspx?dsNavigation=Ntk~SearchGroup%7cmtp+48%7c3%7c%2cNy~True%2cNtpc~Disabled%2cNs~product+Type%7c101%7c1%7c&Title=Mega-Tron+Plus+-+85+Months+-+770+CCA
http://www.atbatt.com/product/23994.asp
^^The Interestate site isn't clear, but this site says this is NOT an AGM battery. Meaning (1) I was ripped off or blatantly lied to; and (2) my car is coded for the wrong battery.
OTOH...
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/Products/RT/PID-MTP-48~H6(Automotive+Truck).aspx?dsNavigation=Nrc~id-4%2cN~21-4294492310-4294493502&Title=Mega-Tron+Plus+-+85+Months+-+770+CCA
So now I'm massively confused.
Any way to find out what's in there definitively? I'm thinking of just calling another shop or two to see what's up.
http://www.interstatedealers.com/IBCatalog/common/automotive_spec.pdf
Now I think I have my answer. Next to the H6A is "AGM". Next to mine there isn't. But I need something concrete if I'm going to accuse these guys of basically not knowing WTF they're doing.
Dudes at the shop are telling me they've had conversations with Interstate back and forth about this and that from what they know the H6 IS an AGM battery.
I'm going to call a couple other shops and see what they think. Interstate is kind of dumb for not having detailed specs on this stuff.
Coding? :confused:
I went down to a local shop and ordered my battery. Came in the wrong one of 2 options because the '05 v8 requires a longer version of the 90amp. Took it back and got the right interstate one. Took the old one out and put the new one in. Took about 15 minutes- No coding no issues no nothing. Not any problems since then either. Did you get suckered on some sales pitch or am I quietly destroying my whip?
Quote from: rohan on December 19, 2011, 07:38:41 PM
Coding? :confused:
I went down to a local shop and ordered my battery. Came in the wrong one of 2 options because the '05 v8 requires a longer version of the 90amp. Took it back and got the right interstate one. Took the old one out and put the new one in. Took about 15 minutes- No coding no issues no nothing. Not any problems since then either. Did you get suckered on some sales pitch or am I quietly destroying my whip?
I've read that as long as the battery is the same model as the stock one it should be fine. If it's not, it won't destroy the car. You might just lose battery life due to different charging specs.
Quote from: hotrodalex on December 19, 2011, 07:48:12 PM
I've read that as long as the battery is the same model as the stock one it should be fine. If it's not, it won't destroy the car. You might just lose battery life due to different charging specs.
This.
And if it's an AGM battery it might get ruined very quickly - apparently those are very sensitive to overcharging.
Though I could see a scenario where it could cause some real trouble with the electrical systems if your car is set up to use a wet cell and you throw in an AGM, especially in a German car.
Fuck. I just put it up for winter to. I guess I'll be taking it down and making a trip to the dealership tomorrow. I just had it there for extensive bodywork and recall fix it seems like they would have noticed a problem if there is one but I better make sure before I forget come next spring. Appreciate the heads up.
Quote from: rohan on December 19, 2011, 08:00:01 PM
Fuck. I just put it up for winter to. I guess I'll be taking it down and making a trip to the dealership tomorrow. I just had it there for extensive bodywork and recall fix it seems like they would have noticed a problem if there is one but I better make sure before I forget come next spring. Appreciate the heads up.
I hestitate to tell you anything concrete because E60s might be a little different - hell if you merely swapped out an old battery for a new one and they're the same spec it's probably not worth getting the dealership to code - people seem to think the only thing that'll happen is your battery will wear out faster where that's the case. But if you're not sure it's probably better to play it safe.
Another alternative is to call around and see if a local shop will do it cheaper. People on E90 post have had this type of thing done for under $50.
Wow this makes me love Hondas that much more
I have to admit, though exceedingly anecdotal, this too has me doing the same (er, Acura actually).
Quote from: sportyaccordy on December 22, 2011, 04:31:56 PM
Wow this makes me love Hondas that much more
Germans. :rolleyes:
FWIW the shop called me back and told me I was right; once I get back to NC I'll head back to gboro and they'll swap in a World Source AGM for me. Will probably get the cooling system tested there as I'm hopefully driving all the way down to south FL after new year's.
See stuff like this keeps me from getting a European car.
Quote from: 565 on December 24, 2011, 12:12:38 AM
See stuff like this keeps me from getting a European car.
Really wouldn't have it any other way as long as it wasn't my dad's cash I use to fix these things...
Quote from: 850CSi on December 13, 2011, 03:14:43 PM
Ok, car is having trouble starting now as it gets colder outside. It probably hasn't dropped below 30 yet and it's having a hell of a time starting when I've left it overnight.
Probably just going to take it to Autozone and then I'll just take it to the stealership to have them reset the system (apparently only charge 30 min labor for this) so it charges right. Should any Group 48 battery work?
Excuse my ignorance, but why does a dealer have to "reset" anything after changing the battery? I've never heard of that, even in the number of premium car brands people in my family have previously driven. Only thing I ever ran into was my Saab requiring a numerical code for the stereo after a battery change.
Back in the 1990's, we used to have to "relearn" the idle after a battery change, but you could do it yourself by holding the RPM's at one spot for five minutes.
I know this sounds like the old "I used to walk to school everyday, it was uphill both ways", but I miss the days when a battery was sold for its warranty range more than anything else. A 24 month battery was $19.95 plus tax. (That was on sale of course.)
Quote from: TurboDan on December 24, 2011, 02:35:29 PM
Excuse my ignorance, but why does a dealer have to "reset" anything after changing the battery? I've never heard of that, even in the number of premium car brands people in my family have previously driven. Only thing I ever ran into was my Saab requiring a numerical code for the stereo after a battery change.
Battery type/charging and MaH. If you're swapping a normal [lead acid] battery for a normal battery you need only give it a reset so it knows it's charging a new battery. It apparently adjusts to charge worn batteries over time and not putting a reset in could shorten the new battery's life. OTOH if you go lead acid -> AGM, you need the system charging map recoded because it's adjusted over time for a worn battery and AGMs are apparently very sensitive to overcharging and can be ruined easily.
At least that's my understanding of it. There are like 50 threads on this over at E90 post.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292200
To think, we used to worry about over-charging in regards to the alternator's life span, not the battery's. I guess that began to change with the rise in battery prices. A faulty battery will fry a alternator in short order.