Car: '03 Accord Ex-L 4cyl 5spd
Symptom: Vibration on acceleration from 80-120kph, none while cruising steady at any speed.
I experienced the exact same in an '05 CR-V once and the dealer replaced both front shafts under warranty as the fix.
Problem here is that the Accord is out of warranty, especially with 410,000kms on it.
I'd like to try and figure out which of the shafts is causing the vibration, or which is worse, since I'm trying to help the owner get this fixed without wasting $$$.
Any ideas?
Jack the thing up, and grab both of them and try moving it. There should be more play in one of the CV joints than the other.
I was getting a similar symptom from out-of-balance wheels this summer/fall. Might be worth looking into.
But as far as which one is causing it, if it is the shafts... wow that would be hard to narrow down, but I would suspect that it's the inner joint that causes that symptom, so maybe you could unbolt it from the suspension and leave it in the car and check for differences in play relative to the other.
I think I'm going to meet you both half way...
I'm going to drive it up onto some ramps and see if I can spot an obvious difference by tugging on the inners/outers by hand.
Worst case I think we'll flip a coin.
I had a bad half shaft on the Tacoma I owned for a summer. There was noticeable slop in one of the inner CV joints. Just by grabbing both and shaking, you could tell a huge difference.
Pain in the ass to replace though.
Hadn't seen the car again yet, but wont have to figure out which one anymore because one of them broke today.
We'll have to wait and see which one, but from what he described it was the outer joint on one of them.
Whoops...
(http://www.ferfolia.net/james/forumpics/SeanDriversShaft.jpg)
I think I found the problem...
:mask:
Jesus. How did you manage that?
He said 3k in 2nd gear when that happened.
Second time I've seen one fail right there though. They mount that rubber weight there to balance it/calm vibration/whatever, and water/salt/dirt get under it and rot the shaft over time.
Mind you the first one I saw was on my cousins Integra right after he dropped the clutch in 1st at 3000rpm...
hehe... that'll do it.
FUUUUUUUUUU......
He had the thing towed to my house tonight.
I can't get the f'in axle nut off to save my life. Started to cut the nut but gave up for tonight.
Might go buy a 3/4" drive 36mm socket to try on it tomorrow or just keep cutting till I can split it.
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on November 21, 2011, 09:40:57 PM
FUUUUUUUUUU......
He had the thing towed to my house tonight.
I can't get the f'in axle nut off to save my life. Started to cut the nut but gave up for tonight.
Might go buy a 3/4" drive 36mm socket to try on it tomorrow or just keep cutting till I can split it.
Did you remove the cotter pin? :lol:
Anything is removeable with a long enough lever.
I keep a giant lead pipe in my garage for just the occasion. Use that in conjunction with a jack. You'll either break the socket or it'll come off.
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/384102_10150968861025035_825205034_22049509_974810913_n.jpg?dl=1)
3/4" drive bar with 36mm socket on it. That did it.
Anyone want a parts car Accord with a new half shaft?
He failed to keep on top of its oil consumption and it wouldn't start for him to drive home last night.
I looked at it this morning, it would start/run if you kept your foot to the floor, but maxed at 2000rpm and ran pretty bad.
Oil below the dipstick...
Problem with these K series is that the timing chain tensioner is driven by oil pressure... Too little pressure for too long, and well.... It certainly skipped a few teeth ending the cars service life. Dealer quoted $1900 to install a wrecker engine...
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on November 20, 2011, 11:15:08 AM
Whoops...
(http://www.ferfolia.net/james/forumpics/SeanDriversShaft.jpg)
Some duct tape and JBweld should solve that.