My Yaris is a California car, (only been here a year) and I had it on the lift at my job today. I noticed that the undercarrage is pretty much rust-free.
Any good way to keep it like this for awhile? Do those rustproofing sprays actually work?
I sprayed Accent with Amsoil HD Metal protector. It leaves a nice waxy oil coating that lasts most of a winter. Of course, now I don't have to worry about it.
Rust proofing can get pretty involved, though, depending how anal you want to be. Drilling holes, removing body panels... meh. Just jack it up and coat all the metal under parts. Wear PPE. Don't hit your brake rotors.
Another thing I like to do is take silicone spray, spray it on a clotch, and
wipe down all the weather stripping. Keep it loobed, keep it from letting wster where
it shouldn't go.
And don't use a clotch; use a cloth.
If you live in California I don't see why you'll have a rust problem. They don't throw salt down there.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 26, 2012, 08:00:12 AM
If you live in California I don't see why you'll have a rust problem. They don't throw salt down there.
Except he lives in Ohio, where they repave the roads with salt every winter.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on August 26, 2012, 08:07:18 AM
Except he lives in Ohio, where they repave the roads with salt every winter.
Oh, well you're fucked then. Spray it all you want but it will get into everything and make it rust.
3m rubberized undercoating works well. That's what I use to touch up or improve the factory undercoat. Oil undercoats... not a fan.
Quote from: S204STi on August 26, 2012, 02:22:26 PM
3m rubberized undercoating works well. That's what I use to touch up or improve the factory undercoat. Oil undercoats... not a fan.
Poorly applies undercoating has a repitation of traspping moisture and salt and promoting rust.
Keeping the underbody and wheel wells rinsed with fresh water after the salt season will do wonders
Quote from: MiataJohn on August 26, 2012, 07:59:01 PM
Poorly applies undercoating has a repitation of traspping moisture and salt and promoting rust.
Keeping the underbody and wheel wells rinsed with fresh water after the salt season will do wonders
That's why I chose to use a temporary, sticky oil coating. It does not require surface prep or masking, and naturally repels water.
Jesus is telling you to move to CA.
Nailed to the cross with rusty nails, and now he has tetanus!
LOL. Growing up in AZ, I remember a friend's parents old Buick wagon that came from Ohio. I was amazed that the floorboard, quarter panels and lower fenders were fucking rotted away. Cancer for cars! Perfect interior, though! Nice parts vehicle! :lol:
You're just prolonging the inevitable with this stuff. That salt water will get into every seam on the car and it will rust in places you can't see. Start cutting panels off and you'll see what I'm talking about. I hate nothing more then working on a car from up north.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 27, 2012, 11:17:15 AM
You're just prolonging the inevitable with this stuff. That salt water will get into every seam on the car and it will rust in places you can't see. Start cutting panels off and you'll see what I'm talking about. I hate nothing more then working on a car from up north.
I've used
Krown (http://www.krown.com/history-mission/) on my 01 Escape since new (once a year spray). So far (12 years), it's been rust free. Perhaps there's some rust in the interior of the rockers, doors, etc. but, so far, nothing's visible. When applied the first time, they drill holes in all the places where they can spray the interior of rockers, doors, etc. as well as spraying the the visible parts. The solution will 'creep' into places where it's the spray is not accessible; it will, also, creep onto the exterior of the panels but a once a week washing will remove that. They remove the plugs every year and respray everything. It costs about a $100 per year. I believe it extends the rust free look of a vehicle a good 5 or 7 years and is well worth it. Similar products, perhaps not quite as good, are also available in the US.
Quote from: FoMoJo on August 27, 2012, 11:30:28 AM
I've used Krown (http://www.krown.com/history-mission/) on my 01 Escape since new (once a year spray). So far (12 years), it's been rust free. Perhaps there's some rust in the interior of the rockers, doors, etc. but, so far, nothing's visible. When applied the first time, they drill holes in all the places where they can spray the interior of rockers, doors, etc. as well as spraying the the visible parts. The solution will 'creep' into places where it's the spray is not accessible; it will, also, creep onto the exterior of the panels but a once a week washing will remove that. They remove the plugs every year and respray everything. It costs about a $100 per year. I believe it extends the rust free look of a vehicle a good 5 or 7 years and is well worth it. Similar products, perhaps not quite as good, are also available in the US.
I know all about that stuff. And it still rust in-between the metal where it's welded. I'm not saying it won't help, but it won't stop it either. And the suspension bolts and all that other shit will have much more rust or be locked up compared to cars from the south.
Oh, and with some of the new cars coming out you won't be able to drill holes into the metal to spray that stuff. That high strength steel can't be drilled into without messing it up. And even some of the air bag sensors work by the door panels being pushed in and the air pressure change is what sets off the sensor to the air bag. You can't put bondo on the outside when they get dented or spray rust stuff on the inside of these new doors. With the way cars are going now I doubt in a few years this rust stuff will be used as much as in the past. Or it will cost you WAY more because rather then just drilling a simple hole and putting a plug in it they'll have to take all the interior out to find a place they can spray it in.
Quote from: MiataJohn on August 26, 2012, 07:59:01 PM
Poorly applies undercoating has a repitation of traspping moisture and salt and promoting rust.
Keeping the underbody and wheel wells rinsed with fresh water after the salt season will do wonders
Since I don't poorly apply anything, I've had no problems. :lol:
But yeah, I also wash the car ASAP after major storms and on a near-weekly basis in the winter (especially the undercarriage) to prevent any issues.
My mom's Legacy has some sort of rust proofing. There's some sort of rubbery stuff on the undercarriage, and it's totally rust free after 6 years in Rochester.
I'd wonder if it's actually "rust free" or if there's just rust starting in the normal places hiding behind the rubber.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on August 28, 2012, 11:28:24 AM
I'd wonder if it's actually "rust free" or if there's just rust starting in the normal places hiding behind the rubber.
That's what happened under my passenger floorboard in the MR2. The undercoating protected in some places, but trapped moisture in others.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on August 28, 2012, 11:28:24 AM
I'd wonder if it's actually "rust free" or if there's just rust starting in the normal places hiding behind the rubber.
I've seen this before. It also makes it hard to work on things because the bolts are covered with shit. I'm so glad I don't live in the north.
I remeber going to a carwash in the winter and asking if I could get an extra undercarriage wash, since they were advertising them for free. They said they could only do it once. SO I MOVED TO THE SOUTH.
Unless you're a gloom and doom body guy, none of this really matters. Cars nowadays are pretty well protected, even in Michigan. I can't drive my Datsun in the snow, but a new car should go 10-15.years without showing rust on shiny surfaces. If the bottom rusts a bit, so what? I've got some PB blaster, an impact gun, and a torch.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 28, 2012, 03:44:54 PM
Unless you're a gloom and doom body guy, none of this really matters. Cars nowadays are pretty well protected, even in Michigan. I can't drive my Datsun in the snow, but a new car should go 10-15.years without showing rust on shiny surfaces. If the bottom rusts a bit, so what? I've got some PB blaster, an impact gun, and a torch.
Onslaught: "gloom and doom body guy"
:lol:
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 28, 2012, 03:44:54 PM
Unless you're a gloom and doom body guy, none of this really matters. Cars nowadays are pretty well protected, even in Michigan. I can't drive my Datsun in the snow, but a new car should go 10-15.years without showing rust on shiny surfaces. If the bottom rusts a bit, so what? I've got some PB blaster, an impact gun, and a torch.
It's true that modern cars don't rust like they did years ago. But they still rust and working on rusted up cars sucks ass. I hate you're northern cars with a passion!!!!
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on August 28, 2012, 03:58:52 PM
Onslaught: "gloom and doom body guy"
:lol:
He is!
GODDAMMIT I HATE NEW CARS SO MUCH THE BEST DAYS ARE BEHIND US
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 28, 2012, 04:46:34 PM
He is!
GODDAMMIT I HATE NEW CARS SO MUCH THE BEST DAYS ARE BEHIND US
No, I just hate you norther people and your cars. :lol:
Quote from: Rupert on August 27, 2012, 12:41:02 AM
Nailed to the cross with rusty nails, and now he has tetanus!
:lol:
Quote from: Onslaught on August 28, 2012, 04:21:26 PM
It's true that modern cars don't rust like they did years ago. But they still rust and working on rusted up cars sucks ass. I hate you're northern cars with a passion!!!!
The worst about northern cars isn't so much the body rust. It's when the salt mist gets everywhere and corrodes the nuts and bolts.
I dreaded working on the MR2 because no matter what I was doing, it ALWAYS ended up with bolts snapping and me spending 5x longer than expected extracting bolts and such.
I love the Trooper because it has no rust and bolts loosen so easily. Such a luxury!!
Quote from: Speed_Racer on August 28, 2012, 11:21:40 PM
The worst about northern cars isn't so much the body rust. It's when the salt mist gets everywhere and corrodes the nuts and bolts.
I dreaded working on the MR2 because no matter what I was doing, it ALWAYS ended up with bolts snapping and me spending 5x longer than expected extracting bolts and such.
I love the Trooper because it has no rust and bolts loosen so easily. Such a luxury!!
Trust me, I know. I get paid the same to take something apart if it's free of rust or if it's full of it. Bolts snap, nuts won't come off and it can take a 30 minute job and turn it into a two hour one.
Or you have to weld in a new quarter and it's full of slime that gets all over you and then you've got to try and clean it all out of the car before you can weld the new one in. You can't weld with spunk all over the metal.
(http://img.epinions.com/images/opti/28/0b/pr-Paint-Rust-Oleum_Stops_Rust_Gloss_Protective_Enamel_12_Ounce_Fresh_Blue-resized200.jpg)
Plastic bubble off the end of the assembly line works pretty well.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 28, 2012, 04:21:26 PM
It's true that modern cars don't rust like they did years ago. But they still rust and working on rusted up cars sucks ass. I hate you're northern cars with a passion!!!!
This mid-Atlantic guy uses marine engine protectant on his vehicles. ;)
All I know is that removing all of the dealer-installed rustproofing from the Caddy was a nasty, messy job: and I found lots of rust underneath it all anyways.
Truth be told, brand new cars have rust in spots if you start to take them apart. You can never stop rust.
Stop building cars out of low grade steel. Aluminum forms a tenacious oxide layer when exposes to air. There should be more use of fiberglass and carbon fiber in body panels. But wait, then cars won't rust out and manufacturers won't get to sell you a new one in three years. It's all a scam.
I'm staying out of the rust belt.
Well then the cost of the cars would go up too high. And it you needed it fixed it cost you way more too. Some of that shit you listed is hard to work on.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on September 02, 2012, 05:22:16 AM
Stop building cars out of low grade steel. Aluminum forms a tenacious oxide layer when exposes to air. There should be more use of fiberglass and carbon fiber in body panels. But wait, then cars won't rust out and manufacturers won't get to sell you a new one in three years. It's all a scam.
I'm staying out of the rust belt.
They've gotten a lot better.
my '84 olds was rusted through in several places by '92 when I bought it: But the Civic was 10 years old when I sold it and not a bit of rust on the surface: the undercarriage wasn't even all that bad.
:mrcool: get a car made from aluminum... it won't rust... how about a corvette zo6.... :mrcool:
Front hood and fenders on my WRX are aluminum. w00t.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 29, 2012, 04:08:40 AM
Trust me, I know. I get paid the same to take something apart if it's free of rust or if it's full of it. Bolts snap, nuts won't come off and it can take a 30 minute job and turn it into a two hour one.
I remember having to replace the speedo cable on the MR2, which required removing a piece of underbody plastic. All four bolts attaching it to the body snapped. I didn't even bother putting it back in afterwards.