I got the tribute's emissions stuff all solved. The rearmost catalytic converter was replaced, since it was clogged.
I cleared the codes and the car is running generally good.
However, the oil pressure light comes on, but only at idle - and at idle when the car is at operating temp.
Thoughts?
Oil pump going bad? Is that a thing?
Is it running kind of hot? Any noises from the engine?
Oil pump sounds like the likely culprit.
Quote from: 2o6 on February 16, 2016, 05:18:45 PM
I got the tribute's emissions stuff all solved. The rearmost catalytic converter was replaced, since it was clogged.
I cleared the codes and the car is running generally good.
However, the oil pressure light comes on, but only at idle - and at idle when the car is at operating temp.
Thoughts?
It's usually the sender, but a mechanical oil pressure test is indicated. Or do the mechanic's personal car thing and change the oil to 20-50w and see if it goes away... ;)
Quote from: giant_mtb on February 16, 2016, 05:22:26 PM
Oil pump going bad? Is that a thing?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 16, 2016, 05:26:19 PM
Is it running kind of hot? Any noises from the engine?
Oil pump sounds like the likely culprit.
Runs fine, smooth, no knocks. I don't think it's the oil pump.
Quote from: shp4man on February 16, 2016, 05:27:58 PM
It's usually the sender, but a mechanical oil pressure test is indicated. Or do the mechanic's personal car thing and change the oil to 20-50w and see if it goes away... ;)
I'm going to drive it again and see what the idle is doing. I'm not sure if it's idling too slowly and it's acting weird.
Bearings are shot. You have no chance to survive make your time.
Have you changed the oil?
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 16, 2016, 07:19:11 PM
Have you changed the oil?
Not yet, I've basically driven it from the sellers house to the shop for a new cat.
Sell quickly.
Summit
Quote from: shp4man on February 16, 2016, 05:27:58 PM
It's usually the sender, but a mechanical oil pressure test is indicated. Or do the mechanic's personal car thing and change the oil to 20-50w and see if it goes away... ;)
What he said.
Go buy a mechanical gauge, they are cheap enough, and remove the factory sending unit, Install the mechanical one in it's place and see what pressure you get at cold idle and various RPM and at hot idle ad various RPM.
Or.
Just replace the OEM sender with a new one and see if the problem goes away. I don't think the senders are al that much.
I'd steer clear of heavier oil and/or additives if I could.
I just bought a new sender, should be here in a few days.
I'm wondering if it may be dirty throttle body or IAC. Idle still isn't 100%, so I wonder f the IAC is idling too slowly.
Jusginf from engine sound and the fact it's still pretty responsive I don't think it's actually an oil problem.
I don't see how any of those things are related to oil pressure. If the sender is good, the level at which the light comes on is really low: lower than even a low idle speed will produce.
Change the oil, put 10 40 or 5 40 in it.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 16, 2016, 08:18:24 PM
I don't see how any of those things are related to oil pressure. If the sender is good, the level at which the light comes on is really low: lower than even a low idle speed will produce.
The oil maybe 5 years old with 40k miles on it.
First thing I'd do is change it.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 16, 2016, 08:18:24 PM
I don't see how any of those things are related to oil pressure. If the sender is good, the level at which the light comes on is really low: lower than even a low idle speed will produce.
:hesaid:
Oil pressure is highest at idle, even if the car is almost stalling out it'll be double the pressure it's normally at on the highway.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 16, 2016, 08:32:01 PM
:hesaid:
Oil pressure is highest at idle, even if the car is almost stalling out it'll be double the pressure it's normally at on the highway.
I don't think that is the case for modern engines built in the last 30 years.
Oil pressure is low at idle and increases with rpm. I'm sure if the specs of the tribute where looked up it would show this.
Secret Chimp said his did the same thing and it turned out to be a bad sending unit (he also runs heavier oil than stock).
I'll change the oil and run 10w-30 (instead of 5w-20) and see what happens.
Sending units are very common, oil needs to be changed either way.
Like I said, I have only driven the car from the seller's house, to my house. Then my house, to the exhaust shop.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 16, 2016, 08:36:01 PM
I don't think that is the case for modern engines built in the last 30 years.
Oil pressure is low at idle and increases with rpm. I'm sure if the specs of the tribute where looked up it would show this.
No I'm just retarded.
Best of luck but it's usually not the sending unit or a bad oil pump (= ruined engine anyway). This is a classic sign (when the oil/engine warms up) of bad main bearing(s).
Quote from: GoCougs on February 16, 2016, 09:22:06 PM
Best of luck but it's usually not the sending unit or a bad oil pump (= ruined engine anyway). This is a classic sign (when the oil/engine warms up) of bad main bearing(s).
I'm not sure, but I haven't ruled it out. Quick search shows that this problem is fairly common on Tribute/Escapes. (I mean, Chimp's did the same thing)
I'm staying optimistic
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 16, 2016, 08:32:01 PM
:hesaid:
Oil pressure is highest at idle,
Somebody better inform the XK engines that powered Jaguars for almost 50 years starting in 1949. They all pull lower pressure at idle, 10 lbs is not uncommon and should have about 40 PSI at 3,000 rpm.
At low RPM you are pumping a lesser volume through the same oil galleries and bearings as you would at high RPM. That's lesser volume is going to result in less pressure.
Quote from: CLKid on February 16, 2016, 11:19:31 PM
Somebody better inform the XK engines that powered Jaguars for almost 50 years starting in 1949. They all pull lower pressure at idle, 10 lbs is not uncommon and should have about 40 PSI at 3,000 rpm.
At low RPM you are pumping a lesser volume through the same oil galleries and bearings as you would at high RPM. That's lesser volume is going to result in less pressure.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 16, 2016, 09:02:48 PM
I'm just retarded.
We all have our moments
My Z's oil pressure confirms CLKid's findings
And my 1st Accord lunched its bearings pulling to a stop :cry: I really did cry when that car died
you guys think Jiffy Lube will put in 10w30 in it if I ask? (Instead of 5w20?)
Quote from: 2o6 on February 17, 2016, 07:12:04 AM
you guys think Jiffy Lube will put in 10w30 in it if I ask? (Instead of 5w20?)
Probably, but why not change the sender first and see if that solves the problem before you change oil weights? And why not change your own oil and know it's done right?
Because if you don't have your own garage, changing oil is a pain. My apartment in SC said no car maintenance on the premises.
I got the change and took it up to 10w30 - the oil light is more of a flicker, but still comes on idle. It runs fine, no clatters, no hesitation, no shitty idle. It doesn't feel like it's going to stall. Feels about the same as with 5w20...
I just asked at the Escape forum, and it's fairly common for tthe sender units in the V6 models to fail like this.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 17, 2016, 09:26:33 AM
Because if you don't have your own garage, changing oil is a pain. My apartment in SC said no car maintenance on the premises.
Those sir, are very good reasons not to change your own oil.
Autozone will let you change it in their parking lot.
Quote from: CLKid on February 17, 2016, 12:01:28 PM
Those sir, are very good reasons not to change your own oil.
It was a happy day when I changed 2 car's oil in the garage. And a sad day when I sold my jack and oil change pan (after divorce and housing downgrade).
Now I live 5min from army garage so I'll just go there.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 17, 2016, 12:03:44 PM
Autozone will let you change it in their parking lot.
Run roh! :lol:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 17, 2016, 06:45:13 PM
It was a happy day when I changed 2 car's oil in the garage. And a sad day when I sold my jack and oil change pan (after divorce and housing downgrade).
Now I live 5min from army garage so I'll just go there.
If it's anything like the Navy "hobby shops" I recall from my stint in the military they will have tools, hydraulic lifts, manuals and often technical help. The one's I r3member even had a fully equipped wood working shop for making anything from a coat rack to a chest of drawers.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 17, 2016, 12:03:44 PM
Autozone will let you change it in their parking lot.
That seems like a horrible idea on Autozone's part.
Quote from: CLKid on February 17, 2016, 07:57:52 PM
If it's anything like the Navy "hobby shops" I recall from my stint in the military they will have tools, hydraulic lifts, manuals and often technical help. The one's I r3member even had a fully equipped wood working shop for making anything from a coat rack to a chest of drawers.
Yup- totally awesome! The one at Fort Gordon had a paint bay, they usually have welding, tire machines, etc...
Pretty sure it's the sender, I've put on like 80 miles, and it won't even do it consistently now. Still no idle issues, no clanging. That Mazda 3.0L is very sensitive to oil pressure changes.
It would have blown up by now.
hope you're good