I really enjoy my car, and the basic mechanicals are sound. However, it needs a little TLC. I feel that with this TLC the car will last for quite some time. So here I have comprised a list of what I plan on getting done real soon here, in order from most importance to least importance
- Parking Brake (either this weekend, or next)
- Head gasket leak = new head gasket (there was oil in the coolant when I drained off the coolant back in July. However, I haven't had any recent overheating problems, or any issues, but it needs to be done soon. There is no coolant in the oll, however.)
- Brakes. (Pads. Pedal feels fine, but requires a fair amount of travel and is noisy. Does not pulsate, so I'm sure it isn't the rotors)
- Belts and water pump. (My belts look fine....but I don't know what I'm looking at. Belts/water pump should be replaced at 105K, and I'm guessing it's been done already because there are no issues associated with it........yet.......I hope.)
- Body work. (I mean, new panels. There was a black Neon being parted out about a month ago, and he was letting fenders go for $10 a piece. Pull-a-part prices it at $20 a fender, and $20 a bumper cover, so either way it's not that expensive)
- Wheels and tires. (I'm going aftermarket with the wheels......I discovered that one of my rims is slightly bent...which explains the shaking at 75MPH. Dad gets a 30% discount on tires, so there.)
Eventually:
- Brother found some performance headers in the discount bin at Summit racing....
- Lowering springs at neons.org is ~$70-100
- Seats.
Quote from: 2o6 on September 07, 2010, 08:04:02 PM
I really enjoy my car, and the basic mechanicals are sound. However, it needs a little TLC. I feel that with this TLC the car will last for quite some time. So here I have comprised a list of what I plan on getting done real soon here, in order from most importance to least importance
- Parking Brake (either this weekend, or next)
Peer ye at yonder cable before anything else.
Quote
- Head gasket leak = new head gasket (there was oil in the coolant when I drained off the coolant back in July. However, I haven't had any recent overheating problems, or any issues, but it needs to be done soon. There is no coolant in the oll, however.)
Verilee, ye may be fuck'd
Quote
- Brakes. (Pads. Pedal feels fine, but requires a fair amount of travel and is noisy. Does not pulsate, so I'm sure it isn't the rotors)
Check ye olde pads visualee and bleed thine brake spirits
Quote
- Belts and water pump. (My belts look fine....but I don't know what I'm looking at. Belts/water pump should be replaced at 105K, and I'm guessing it's been done already because there are no issues associated with it........yet.......I hope.)
Be thine rubber crack'd, or doth thy pump protest? If nay, then tamper not. Thine carriage's worth merits it not.
Quote
- Body work. (I mean, new panels. There was a black Neon being parted out about a month ago, and he was letting fenders go for $10 a piece. Pull-a-part prices it at $20 a fender, and $20 a bumper cover, so either way it's not that expensive)
Bother not. Serial numbers mismatch'd make prospects for future sales suspect of battle wounds!
Quote
- Wheels and tires. (I'm going aftermarket with the wheels......I discovered that one of my rims is slightly bent...which explains the shaking at 75MPH. Dad gets a 30% discount on tires, so there.)
Fix yonder shit lest ye start losing a tie rod end.
Quote
Eventually:
- Brother found some performance headers in the discount bin at Summit racing....
- Lowering springs at neons.org is ~$70-100
- Seats.
What folly
:lol: :lol: :lol:
LOL! :clap: :lol:
Yes, good job and fair evaluation, Chimp.
Don't forget to upgrade your headlights. Regular bulbs get dimmer with time. Upgrade to a HID kit.
He should just put some blue tint bulbs in there. ;)
LOL! That's too ricey! Plus HID kits are really cheap now! 35-50 bicks is the norm.
... I don't think I would put a $50 HID on my car. In the world of lighting, if it sounds too cheap to be good, it is.
I have the 35 buck kits on my bike,Z28 and Corolla. They haven't given me any problems.
HID's in reflector head lights look awful.
Chimp is spot on. He needs to open a mechanic shop and give quotes with such presence.
MrH some car/SUVs came from the factory with HIDs that weren't housed in projectors.
On mine diminutive chariot I hath install'd lanterns accepting of H4 electrified torches, with mirrors ground to cast a light for Ye Olde World. Why lay waste to my fires upon guidesigns and soforth when I may cast my steed's power fully upon the ground before me, for I know mine path without guide or direction, and needst I the clearest vision for obstacles and foes ahead, not alerts and directions meant for the unlearned, untraveled folk of our newer kingdom.
But forsooth, my solution appliest not to thine slovenly saloon.
My lord. hahahahaha
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on September 08, 2010, 02:34:47 PM
MrH some car/SUVs came from the factory with HIDs that weren't housed in projectors.
And those would be the vehicles that blind people and gave hid's a bad reputation
I think newer (and perhaps older?) Prisuses come with HID bulbs in reflector housings. At least, the bulbs are HID-like in color.
Quote from: r0tor on September 08, 2010, 04:15:22 PM
And those would be the vehicles that blind people and gave hid's a bad reputation
The IS300's came with HID's in non projectors. They're bright as hell, but I've never been blinded by one.
Quote from: r0tor on September 08, 2010, 04:15:22 PM
And those would be the vehicles that blind people and gave hid's a bad reputation
Never had anyone flash me so far and I've had aftermarket HIDs since 2007. The Z28 and 'Rolla have 8k kits and my Gixxer has a 12k kit.
Chimp, you're hilarious. And informative.
Quote from: SVT_Power on September 08, 2010, 05:19:30 PM
The IS300's came with HID's in non projectors. They're bright as hell, but I've never been blinded by one.
Many early 00' Infiniti's had reflector xenons, as did the second generation Escalade.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on September 08, 2010, 08:59:10 AM
Peer ye at yonder cable before anything else.
Verilee, ye may be fuck'd
As I said....the oil is fine and no overheating issues. I'm wondering if the guy put the old oily coolant back in when if he did the head gasket. Or is all this brown gunk something else?
Check ye olde pads visualee and bleed thine brake spirits
....like take the wheels off? (Forgive my ignorance)
Be thine rubber crack'd, or doth thy pump protest? If nay, then tamper not. Thine carriage's worth merits it not.
I'm thinking it has already been done, because most neons are giving their water pumps up at around 100K. Belts look good, too.
Bother not. Serial numbers mismatch'd make prospects for future sales suspect of battle wounds!
I would like to at least get black bumpers and a new front fender. The fender is a bit crunched up and the bumpers look ugly.
Fix yonder shit lest ye start losing a tie rod end.
Good to know.
What folly
Quote from: 2o6 on September 08, 2010, 07:20:21 PM
As I said....the oil is fine and no overheating issues. I'm wondering if the guy put the old oily coolant back in when if he did the head gasket. Or is all this brown gunk something else?
....like take the wheels off? (Forgive my ignorance)
I'm thinking it has already been done, because most neons are giving their water pumps up at around 100K. Belts look good, too
Brown could just be sediment within the cooling system (rust from a rotting radiator, for example) as it's unlikely that the guy went to all the effort of changing the head gasket without replacing the coolant. Get the system pressure checked. That will settle the headgasket matter once and for all.
For the brakes, wheels come off....take apart the brakes (you may want someone who know what they're doing to guide you here) remove the pads from their clips and measure thickness with a ruler. If it's less than 2mm of pad left, replace them. Check the rear drums too. If the rotors look scored or have chunks missing they have to be replaced.
If the water pump seems fine, leave it. Let sleeping dogs lie.
Maybe I'm making something out of nothing.
No residue on rad cap, coolant is bright green. Belts look good, too.
Quote from: 3.0L V6 on September 09, 2010, 07:21:56 AM
Brown could just be sediment within the cooling system (rust from a rotting radiator, for example) as it's unlikely that the guy went to all the effort of changing the head gasket without replacing the coolant. Get the system pressure checked. That will settle the headgasket matter once and for all.
For the brakes, wheels come off....take apart the brakes (you may want someone who know what they're doing to guide you here) remove the pads from their clips and measure thickness with a ruler. If it's less than 2mm of pad left, replace them. Check the rear drums too. If the rotors look scored or have chunks missing they have to be replaced.
If the water pump seems fine, leave it. Let sleeping dogs lie.
You don't need to take the brakes apart. There's a rectangular window cast into the middle of the caliper to let you inspect the pad thickness, most of the time at least.
Thee thy thou ye olde what ho ragachops hum hum blarney.
Right rear line is stretching.......which means my "self-adjusting" rear drum brakes aren't self adjusting. (Stupid OH rust!)
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on September 08, 2010, 12:41:06 PM
I have the 35 buck kits on my bike,Z28 and Corolla. They haven't given me any problems.
They give everyone ELSE driving towards you problems. :facepalm:
Quote from: Secret Chimp on September 08, 2010, 03:13:24 PM
On mine diminutive chariot I hath install'd lanterns accepting of H4 electrified torches, with mirrors ground to cast a light for Ye Olde World. Why lay waste to my fires upon guidesigns and soforth when I may cast my steed's power fully upon the ground before me, for I know mine path without guide or direction, and needst I the clearest vision for obstacles and foes ahead, not alerts and directions meant for the unlearned, untraveled folk of our newer kingdom.
But forsooth, my solution appliest not to thine slovenly saloon.
Who made your lights? I need something really good on the 944.
I still would have gone for a classic Plymouth Volare instead of a Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth Neon! :banghead:
Quote from: Rupert on September 14, 2010, 10:11:53 AM
Who made your lights? I need something really good on the 944.
Mine are Hella, people on Miatatards forum always say Cibie is better. Either one should be fine though. Get the actual Eurocode low-cutoff beam pattern, not the "Vision Plus" they try to spin as being Euro.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on September 08, 2010, 08:59:10 AM
Peer ye at yonder cable before anything else.
Verilee, ye may be fuck'd
Check ye olde pads visualee and bleed thine brake spirits
Be thine rubber crack'd, or doth thy pump protest? If nay, then tamper not. Thine carriage's worth merits it not.
Bother not. Serial numbers mismatch'd make prospects for future sales suspect of battle wounds!
Fix yonder shit lest ye start losing a tie rod end.
What folly
Nominated for post of the year.
Quote from: cawimmer430 on September 14, 2010, 10:56:05 AM
I still would have gone for a classic Plymouth Volare instead of a Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth Neon! :banghead:
Will you stop it? It's not funny.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on September 15, 2010, 11:27:33 AM
Mine are Hella, people on Miatatards forum always say Cibie is better. Either one should be fine though. Get the actual Eurocode low-cutoff beam pattern, not the "Vision Plus" they try to spin as being Euro.
Hella is what I am getting. I decided to just go with the normal 60/55 W bulbs rather than the 100/55 W, since my wiring is old. I'm not paying $Texas for Cibie for a Rhode Island size improvement.
So I took a corner at 65MPH today (freeway off ramp, reccomended 35MPH) and the oil light came on (and then went off). I figured it was just oil sloshing around from that corner I took too fast. But then I start experiencing a very, very low idle, and some choppy throttle. The throttle and idle got better as I got closer to home, but I really wonder what happened. I had been driving all day, and driving at freeway speeds (75MPH).
The car also did it's magic electrical gremlin and cut off on me when I got overzealous shifting into 2nd. Speedo drops to 0 (instantly), car cuts off, but electrics are still working. Cranks, no start. But when I take the key out for about 15 seconds, and put it back in, it starts right up.
Quote from: 2o6 on September 24, 2010, 01:35:14 PM
So I took a corner at 65MPH today (freeway off ramp, reccomended 35MPH) and the oil light came on (and then went off). I figured it was just oil sloshing around from that corner I took too fast. But then I start experiencing a very, very low idle, and some choppy throttle. The throttle and idle got better as I got closer to home, but I really wonder what happened. I had been driving all day, and driving at freeway speeds (75MPH).
The car also did it's magic electrical gremlin and cut off on me when I got overzealous shifting into 2nd. Speedo drops to 0 (instantly), car cuts off, but electrics are still working. Cranks, no start. But when I take the key out for about 15 seconds, and put it back in, it starts right up.
Depends on the car I guess, but on some cars (including mine) oil starvation even for brief periods of time can make the engine go kaboom.
That's why race cars use dry sump systems.
Or why well-engineered cars have wet sump systems with decent pan baffles and pickup designs.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on September 24, 2010, 07:58:17 PM
Or why well-engineered cars have wet sump systems with decent pan baffles and pickup designs.
Dagnabbit I'm trying to get him to buy racin' stuff to make his car into a racin' car and you come in here and ruin it all with your logic.
Better idea: Sell Neon, buy a racin' car. ;)
Quote from: Rupert on September 24, 2010, 10:01:55 PM
Better idea: Sell Neon, buy a racin' car. ;) Elantra GT.
:nono:
Racin' car will get you far.
I recommend a Swift.
You can do better than a Hyundai.
924 Porsche 1977 - $2000 (http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/1962115320.html)
If I had seen this before I bought the MG back then, I probably woulda bought this. :lol:
Volare, oh oh... :praise:
Battery light came on while driving accompanied by a nasty whine from under the hood.
Alternator?
Quote from: 2o6 on September 28, 2010, 02:30:26 PM
Battery light came on while driving accompanied by a nasty whine from under the hood.
Alternator?
Make sure the belt is not slipping. If its working correctly it's the Altenator.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on September 28, 2010, 03:53:43 PM
Make sure the belt is not slipping. If its working correctly it's the Altenator.
My belts are squeaky.......and within 45 seconds of the car idling, I hear a sound similar to a failing PS pump. It sounds like the belts are going bad.
I was told that they typically are to be done at 100-105K (My car has almost 103K) so I'm guessing that's what's wrong. My brother is going to help me to determine whether it's the belts or not.
It's amazing the power of the internet. Several videos and websites later, I'm pretty sure the alternator itself is bad. It's a really nasty whine that's proportional to the car's speed.
Bad bearings = new alternator. Well, re manufactured anyways.
Did you check the belts?
Just make sure they don't look worn and are tight (should only budge maybe half a cm)
Quote from: hotrodalex on September 30, 2010, 02:42:01 PM
Did you check the belts?
Just make sure they don't look worn and are tight (should only budge maybe half a cm)
Belts wouldn't cause a battery light.
Quote from: hotrodalex on September 30, 2010, 02:42:01 PM
Did you check the belts?
Just make sure they don't look worn and are tight (should only budge maybe half a cm)
They're not slipping. I get a whine, not a squeal.
And I have to work all weekend, so there goes driving my car.
I know the alternator can go bad on ANY car, but It just makes me want to buy something much nicer next time.
My god, your alternator dies and you want to replace the whole car. LOLZ
Quote from: the Teuton on September 30, 2010, 05:35:19 PM
My god, your alternator dies and you want to replace the whole car. LOLZ
Sure do.
Gay kevin will live out his life buying econoboxes, never happy with what he has. In ten years, he'll be pulling the "I've owned over 100 cars in my life" stint, but none of them will actually be cool.
I could never own something so impractical......
Quote from: 2o6 on September 30, 2010, 06:00:24 PM
Sure do.
:nutty: It could be alot worse. Be happy it's not the tranny. Or a head gasket........
Quote from: Secret Chimp on September 30, 2010, 03:43:34 PM
Belts wouldn't cause a battery light.
I know. But he should check them anyway if they need to be replaced at 100-105k miles and he's at 103k.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on September 30, 2010, 07:08:02 PM
:nutty: It could be alot worse. Be happy it's not the tranny. Or a head gasket........
My alternator bolt hole got stripped out a couple of weeks ago. I imagine he would have wanted a new car after that too, even though it's a simple fix. :lol:
Quote from: hotrodalex on September 30, 2010, 07:11:22 PM
I know. But he should check them anyway if they need to be replaced at 100-105k miles and he's at 103k.
My alternator bolt hole got stripped out a couple of weeks ago. I imagine he would have wanted a new car after that too, even though it's a simple fix. :lol:
Belts are fine. I checked while I was down there.
Quote from: 2o6 on September 30, 2010, 06:28:12 PM
I could never own something so impractical......
Your car preferences bore me. You could always have two cars too. Then you can be as impractical as you want with one of them.
Quote from: MrH on October 01, 2010, 10:33:51 AM
Your car preferences bore me. You could always have two cars too. Then you can be as impractical as you want with one of them.
I can't afford that.
You said you could never own something so impractical. You'll be able to afford it later in life (well, I hope so at least).
Should I get new or used? I would like to get a new alternator, but I don't have the $$$. I also don't want to get a used alternator only to have it not work and me have to take the car apart.
Quote from: 2o6 on October 01, 2010, 04:44:39 PM
Should I get new or used? I would like to get a new alternator, but I don't have the $$$. I also don't want to get a used alternator only to have it not work and me have to take the car apart.
It's an old shitty car. Get something from the junkyard.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 01, 2010, 06:15:13 PM
It's an old shitty car. Get something from the junkyard.
My brother told me I shouldn't.
Quote from: 2o6 on October 01, 2010, 06:16:37 PM
My brother told me I shouldn't.
Then why bother asking us?
Quote from: Laconian on October 01, 2010, 06:19:18 PM
Then why bother asking us?
Because I want to know if he's wrong or not. I can afford a used one and new belts easily.
Junkyard, dude, actually here I like the pick and pulls even better(real junkyards that is.) Those will save you even more money, but you sort of need a clue as to what you're doing there. Put a new part on a 1996 Neon, hell no. You've got an old car and you'll have to learn how to fix it. Enjoy the learning process and PITA.
Christ, a new alternator would cost about 20% of what your car is actually worth...
Quote from: r0tor on October 03, 2010, 08:41:31 AM
Christ, a new alternator would cost about 20% of what your car is actually worth...
Quote from: Middle_Path on October 03, 2010, 07:28:00 AM
Junkyard, dude, actually here I like the pick and pulls even better(real junkyards that is.) Those will save you even more money, but you sort of need a clue as to what you're doing there. Put a new part on a 1996 Neon, hell no. You've got an old car and you'll have to learn how to fix it. Enjoy the learning process and PITA.
Pull a part is $15.00, that is if they haven't all been pulled already. Not only that, but I really don't want to do this three times.
I'm either getting the used one, or calling a shop to see how much $$$ it is to get it rebuilt.
Don't waste your time trying to get it rebuilt. I'm pretty sure that you can buy a new one for what that rebuild will cost.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 03, 2010, 10:50:26 PM
Don't waste your time trying to get it rebuilt. I'm pretty sure that you can buy a new one for what that rebuild will cost.
That's usually the case with things.
2o6: "I have a flat tire! What should I do?"
Everyone: "Change it, fix it, put it back on."
2o6: "Do you think it could be the brakes?"
Quote from: Rupert on October 04, 2010, 11:52:58 PM
2o6: "I have a flat tire! What should I do?"
Everyone: "Change it, fix it, put it back on."
2o6: "Do you think it could be the brakes?"
:lol: :lol:
On the plus side, I almost got my V-belts off. Until I ran out of daylight and I had HW to do.
Stupid adjuster bolt is a bear to get at. I started loosening it up, but I could only get so far.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2010, 03:40:00 AM
That's usually the case with things.
Yeah, it was super expensive. Used one it is.
:lol:
Quote from: Rupert on October 04, 2010, 11:52:58 PM
2o6: "I have a flat tire! What should I do?"
Everyone: "Change it, fix it, put it back on."
2o6: "My brother thinks it's the brake rotors."
Quote from: Laconian on October 05, 2010, 01:27:26 PM
:lol:
2o6: "My brother thinks it's the brake rotors."
Or,
2o6: "The Neon forum thinks it's the brake pads."
:lol:
Quote from: Laconian on October 05, 2010, 01:27:26 PM
:lol:
2o6: "My brother thinks it's the brake rotors."
I looked at my brake pads while my wheel was (is) still off. I need new pads.
My brother says I need calipers, too. :huh:
You're killing me, here, 2o6.
:lol:
Quote from: Rupert on October 05, 2010, 02:51:36 PM
You're killing me, here, 2o6.
:lol:
Seriously. He told me that.
Well, maybe you do, but I bet you don't. If they work, they work.
How come your brother thinks he knows so much?
Quote from: Rupert on October 05, 2010, 02:57:50 PM
Well, maybe you do, but I bet you don't. If they work, they work.
How come your brother thinks he knows so much?
Because he's always fixing something on his Tahoe that all of us told him not to buy.
Ah, yes, that's a clue, right there.
Very, very rarely do you need new calipers. Rotors, yes; calipers, no.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 05, 2010, 07:25:08 PM
Very, very rarely do you need new calipers. Rotors, yes; calipers, no.
My rotors are smooth. They have a tad bit of surface rust on them (It was raining) but generally they're ok.
It's not so much the smoothness as it is the thickness. Find the spec for how thick they need to be and measure them. Like brake pads, the rotors experience wear. The calipers are fine, unless they're not. (That is, unless there is a real problem, they're fine).
I'm going through an issue with my uncle as we speak and this thread reminds me of him.
GQZ ~ Uncle I'm hearing a clicking sound when I turn in the Work van. I'm pretty sure it's the CV joint on the driver side!
Uncle ~ Ok I'll take it to the shop. OK the guy at the shop says that van (2008 Town and Country) doesn't have CV joints. He said it's the bushings so I had him fix that!
GQZ ~ Unc I've never seen a fwd car that doesn't have CV joints.
2 Days later
GQZ ~ Unc the van is still clicking. I'm telling you the CV joints are bad.
Uncle ~ I took it back in and the guy told me it's the struts. I told him to order the struts,they'll be in next week.
GQZ ~ SMH! OKAY! But don't bring my van back till it's fixed! Make sure it's not clicking when you pick it up!!
Today
GQZ ~ Imma stop by and pick up the van in a couple hours unc.
Uncle ~ UMMMMM! Just keep the silver one till Monday.
GQZ ~ Whats wrong?
Uncle ~ The van is still clicking when I turn! I called the guy back and he said he thinks it's the axle. Imma just take it to the dealership Friday.
GQZ ~ I TOLD YOU IT'S THE CV JOINT! THATS CONNECTED TO THE AXLE!!! THATS WHAT I'VE BEEN TELLING YOU FROM THE START
Uncle ~ (crickets chirp)
:banghead:
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 06, 2010, 04:39:50 PM
I'm going through an issue with my uncle as we speak and this thread reminds me of him.
GQZ ~ Uncle I'm hearing a clicking sound when I turn in the Work van. I'm pretty sure it's the CV joint on the driver side!
Uncle ~ Ok I'll take it to the shop. OK the guy at the shop says that van (2008 Town and Country) doesn't have CV joints. He said it's the bushings so I had him fix that!
GQZ ~ Unc I've never seen a fwd car that doesn't have CV joints.
2 Days later
GQZ ~ Unc the van is still clicking. I'm telling you the CV joints are bad.
Uncle ~ I took it back in and the guy told me it's the struts. I told him to order the struts,they'll be in next week.
GQZ ~ SMH! OKAY! But don't bring my van back till it's fixed! Make sure it's not clicking when you pick it up!!
Today
GQZ ~ Imma stop by and pick up the van in a couple hours unc.
Uncle ~ UMMMMM! Just keep the silver one till Monday.
GQZ ~ Whats wrong?
Uncle ~ The van is still clicking when I turn! I called the guy back and he said he thinks it's the axle. Imma just take it to the dealership Friday.
GQZ ~ I TOLD YOU IT'S THE CV JOINT! THATS CONNECTED TO THE AXLE!!! THATS WHAT I'VE BEEN TELLING YOU FROM THE START
Uncle ~ (crickets chirp)
:banghead:
The mechanic was hosing him for all he's got.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 06, 2010, 04:39:50 PM
I'm going through an issue with my uncle as we speak and this thread reminds me of him.
GQZ ~ Uncle I'm hearing a clicking sound when I turn in the Work van. I'm pretty sure it's the CV joint on the driver side!
Uncle ~ Ok I'll take it to the shop. OK the guy at the shop says that van (2008 Town and Country) doesn't have CV joints. He said it's the bushings so I had him fix that!
GQZ ~ Unc I've never seen a fwd car that doesn't have CV joints.
2 Days later
GQZ ~ Unc the van is still clicking. I'm telling you the CV joints are bad.
Uncle ~ I took it back in and the guy told me it's the struts. I told him to order the struts,they'll be in next week.
GQZ ~ SMH! OKAY! But don't bring my van back till it's fixed! Make sure it's not clicking when you pick it up!!
Today
GQZ ~ Imma stop by and pick up the van in a couple hours unc.
Uncle ~ UMMMMM! Just keep the silver one till Monday.
GQZ ~ Whats wrong?
Uncle ~ The van is still clicking when I turn! I called the guy back and he said he thinks it's the axle. Imma just take it to the dealership Friday.
GQZ ~ I TOLD YOU IT'S THE CV JOINT! THATS CONNECTED TO THE AXLE!!! THATS WHAT I'VE BEEN TELLING YOU FROM THE START
Uncle ~ (crickets chirp)
:banghead:
Lord help this guy if there's an unidentifiable sound from somewhere in the middle of a car he owns, he'd probably sign off on having everything below the windows replaced :P
Quote from: Rupert on October 05, 2010, 09:39:24 PM
It's not so much the smoothness as it is the thickness. Find the spec for how thick they need to be and measure them. Like brake pads, the rotors experience wear. The calipers are fine, unless they're not. (That is, unless there is a real problem, they're fine).
As long as the discs aren't warped, they'll be fine. Sounds like he just needs to throw on a new set of pads.
Quote from: Madman on October 06, 2010, 09:35:54 PM
As long as the discs aren't warped, they'll be fine. Sounds like he just needs to throw on a new set of pads.
He needs to at least use some emory cloth or sandpaper to score the glaze off of the discs or else his pads won't work well for shit.
Got the V-belts and alternator off. But yet again, I ran out of daylight.
Should be able to put the new one back on tomorrow.
Ok, so I put my alternator on, but now I'm getting a strange sound (sounds like a pulley not catching correctly) when the car is at full lock.
My PS fluid did run low (I had to remove a line to take a bolt off) but I filled the reservoir.
Are my belts not tightened right? Is my PS pump going out, too?
How did you tighten the belt?
Quote from: r0tor on October 09, 2010, 04:06:39 PM
How did you tighten the belt?
Lifted up the PS pump until the belts were tight.
So I checked under the hood....
Turns out that I neglected to tighten the bolts on the alternator, so the entire assembly is shifting side to side. :facepalm:
Quote from: 2o6 on October 10, 2010, 04:20:18 PM
So I checked under the hood....
Turns out that I neglected to tighten the bolts on the alternator, so the entire assembly is shifting side to side. :facepalm:
Making mistakes is how you learn not to repeat them. Like the time I was changing my oil and forgot to replace the drain plug. Poured the new oil in and out the bottom it went! I'll make sure never to do that again!
Last time I changed the my oil, it was a windy day. All over.
PS Pump is failing. It's a much simpler fix than the Alternator, though.
Either the PS pump is failing, or the belt isn't tight enough. It seems a bit random, it was working fine before I took the belts off. I get a rattling belt, and intermittent PS failures. I pop the hood to check the belt and it's somewhat loose.
So buy a new belt and bring the tension to spec.
Fixed.
I am running out of time and good weather to fix my parking brake.
How much will a shop charge?
What was wrong again?
Quote from: Rupert on October 26, 2010, 08:15:42 PM
What was wrong again?
Right rear parking brake shoe is either seized or broken. No tension in handle. Line possibly stretched, IDK for sure.
You could always park it in-gear...and hope no one bumps the heck out of your car.
Who needs a parking brake? Just carry a brick or a block of wood and wedge it under your tyre when you park. Hey, it's a lot cheaper than paying a mechanic to fix it!
:lol:
Quote from: the Teuton on October 26, 2010, 08:41:59 PM
You could always park it in-gear...and hope no one bumps the heck out of your car.
I've been parking it in gear since late August. And unless you have a worn clutch someone bumping your car won't hurt it.
Quote from: Madman on October 26, 2010, 08:44:28 PM
Who needs a parking brake? Just carry a brick or a block of wood and wedge it under your tyre when you park. Hey, it's a lot cheaper than paying a mechanic to fix it!
:lol:
I want to get it done before snowfall.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs002.snc4/33461_858516064903_14228342_45949658_814991_n.jpg)
If the British do it, it must be cool.
Worst case, new parking brake assembly $? plus two to three hours labor at $70-100/hour.
Probably less than $150.
Quote from: Rupert on October 27, 2010, 12:36:43 AM
Worst case, new parking brake assembly $? plus two to three hours labor at $70-100/hour.
Probably less than $150.
A block of wood is still cheaper.
Quote from: Madman on October 27, 2010, 07:18:24 AM
A block of wood is still cheaper.
I am not sure about this. Commodities have been on quite the uptick
You sure the drum brake assembly is what's wrong? I would double check the cable and connection to the handle before assuming. Make sure you have all the J-hooks or whatever to keep the tension. If all of that looks fine, before taking it to a shop I would try to look at it yourself. Just find a diagram online of the assembly and take the wheel and cover off to check it. (I wouldn't recommend fixing the assembly yourself unless you know what you're doing. It's not very fun, takes a while, and can be confusing)
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 27, 2010, 03:12:00 PM
You sure the drum brake assembly is what's wrong? I would double check the cable and connection to the handle before assuming. Make sure you have all the J-hooks or whatever to keep the tension. If all of that looks fine, before taking it to a shop I would try to look at it yourself. Just find a diagram online of the assembly and take the wheel and cover off to check it. (I wouldn't recommend fixing the assembly yourself unless you know what you're doing. It's not very fun, takes a while, and can be confusing)
Did that already. It goes from both lines to the handle, just fine. The equalizer (that connects the lines from both wheels and transfers it into one line to the handle) is crooked.......which means that one of the lines is seized due to some sort of worn or corroded part.......like a parking brake shoe.
Quote from: 2o6 on October 09, 2010, 04:13:19 PM
Lifted up the PS pump until the belts were tight.
Are you sure there isn't some kind of a tensioning bolt on one of the accessories? Tension-by-tug sounds like a strange system. Then again it is a Chrysler car.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 28, 2010, 09:51:14 AM
Are you sure there isn't some kind of a tensioning bolt on one of the accessories? Tension-by-tug sounds like a strange system. Then again it is a Chrysler car.
I resolved it, but yes, it is essentially tension by tug. You take a 1" breaker bar (the PS pump has a hole specifically for it) and you get someone to push down on it as hard as possible (like a lever) and you tighten the two bolts that secure it to the car. Then, near the alternator, you tighten up the tension bolt.
Re: the parking brake problem; more often than not the problem is easily remedied by simply adjusting the rear brake shoes.
Before some shadetree jumps in to claim they are self adjusting, that is what they are supposed to do but I call it Wishful Thinking.
Would this explain the reason why my rear brakes sometimes lockup when braking?
Hmm that sounds more like broken hardware or a leaking wheel cylinder which has soaked the shoes.
Quote from: R-inge on October 28, 2010, 10:35:31 PM
Hmm that sounds more like broken hardware or a leaking wheel cylinder which has soaked the shoes.
But I'm not low on brake fluid.
Sounds to me like yer car is a piece. ;)
Sounds like it's time to redo all the hardware and get new shoes (brake shoes, not Converse ;) )
Quote from: 2o6 on October 28, 2010, 10:36:28 PM
But I'm not low on brake fluid.
Then what does that leave?
Quote from: Rupert on October 29, 2010, 12:36:24 AM
Sounds to me like yer car is a piece. ;)
False. It is worthy of Cavalier rims.
Code 15 - No signal from vehicle speed sensor - CEL on.
Code 17 - Engine cold too long. Either i'm getting this because I don't let my car warm up (I get in and go, and my car isn't warm by the time I get to school) or the balance of antifreeze in my car is wrong. I already redid the thermostat, and I don't have overheating problems.
I may fix this (and the parking brake) then quit while I'm ahead.
"if your facing your engine bay, go to about the top left corner of the engine, basicly where the tranny meets the block. from there, look straight down. you should see a sensor sticking up towards you on the tranny. its probaby camoflaudge (sp) with grease/oil and grime over it. if you cant find it, just look for a wire going to the tranny and follow it. there should be 1, 10mm bolt holding it down, loosen it, then just pull it right out."
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=253408&p=1931032&hilit=vehicle+speed+sensor#p1931032
Sounds simple enough, but there's probably not much clearance. Sensor is pretty cheap, too.