I've bought some wider "G63" style fender flares that I plan on fitting to my G class.  My bodyshop guy is booked solid until late March so I decided to paint the fenders myself.

It has been a bit of a learning curve. This is the first time I've painted a part on the car that requires a really good looking paint job (I've refinished the oxidized underside of the front skid plate and both running boards before). I managed to smudge the paint, ever so slightly, on one of the fenders even though I let it dry overnight. My garage is around 55 degrees and under 30% humidity but I guess that still wasn't low enough to adequately dry. Another fender became dinged up when it somehow came loose from the hook suspending it in the garage and it hit the floor (really confused as to how that happened).  A third fender has a few small, yet very noticeable paint globs which occurred despite ceaseless cleaning of the nozzle.  One primed and unpainted fender remains.

I'm using the tried and true Rust-o-leum method - a few coats of primer, a few coats of automotive gloss black enamel and then a few coats of automotive gloss clear (the automotive products are formulated to provide greater UV protection). I'd really like to use Eastwood 2k clearcoat but the rust-o-leum fumes are already making their way into the house, and 2k is way, way more toxic. Hopefully the gloss clear will help it to pop a bit more. I'll probably end up brining the fenders to my detailer and see if he can polish them before I perform the install.

Lint remains a stubborn problem - no matter how much I clean, there is always some tiny piece of lint that I find after the gloss black has been applied.  The fender that fell looked great but in a way it is good that it did fall, as I wouldn't have remembered to sand it down before applying another coat.

You cannot view this attachment.

You cannot view this attachment. 

You cannot view this attachment.

Are you sanding between coats?

From what I can tell, that's a must!

Quote from: AutobahnSHO on December 10, 2023, 01:31:51 PMAre you sanding between coats?

From what I can tell, that's a must!

Yeah.  I actually forgot to do so initially.  I'm glad the first fender fell, otherwise I would not have remembered to do so.

The paint is now applying unevenly.  Some spots look great while others have faint yet noticeable ripples.  The garage is about 55 degrees, 30% humidity, the can was warm, the tip and surface, clean.  Not sure what is going on.

  Just pay a shop man.  It can't be that expensive.

I've always had issues with spray paint under 65-70 degrees.

It doesn't dry: it cures. The stinky solvent evaporates fairly quickly and leaves the surface dry to the touch, but the paint needs to have time to cure & harden up all the way through before putting on the next coat. If put on too soon the next coat can soften what's underneath.

That's what I figured, but I gave this four days to dry.  The can says to recoat after 48 hours.  The surface is clean and certainly well past cured and I'm getting this bullshit:

You cannot view this attachment. 

The crazy thing is the first costs went on without anything like this

You may need heat lamps to make sure that it's really set.

Possibly.  What is baffling me is why the first coats went on without problem.

The first coat goes on pretty thin usually.  The second coat, unless the first is perfectly cured, will melt from whatever thinner they use in the can and you end up with a double coat of runny paint.

I've used these spray cans way, way back on a few of my cars and I would think that they've improved them.  Doesn't seem like it though.  Heat will bake out any moisture in previous coats, and then you can sand it.

1000, 1500, 2000.

Those are sandpaper numbers. And machine buffing after 2000.

But when it's crumbly like that...hate to say it, but, start over and try again.

Quote from: giant_mtb on December 14, 2023, 10:45:42 PM1000, 1500, 2000.

Those are sandpaper numbers. And machine buffing after 2000.

But when it's crumbly like that...hate to say it, but, start over and try again.

A local shop will do them for $120 a pop.  I just don't have time with everything that is going on.

You don't have time to drop them off and pick up, but you have time to try painting them yourself?!

I started this project before my wife went into the hospital when I had the time.  Now I don't have the time.

Get the kid in the garage already. I'm sure they can hold a flashlight by now, right?

Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 16, 2023, 12:27:35 PMGet the kid in the garage already. I'm sure they can hold a flashlight by now, right?

Best way to remove rustoleum enamel from plastic?

I'm going to strip it and have a local shop do the job (should have done that front he start but that's another story).

Have the shop do that too!  Have you learned nothing from this experience?!

Quote from: Submariner2 on January 03, 2024, 12:16:36 PMBest way to remove rustoleum enamel from plastic?

I'm going to strip it and have a local shop do the job (should have done that front he start but that's another story).

Palm orbital sander. Can get a cheap one for like $20 at Walmart.

Whatever happened with the fenderz???

Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 11, 2024, 03:20:34 PMWhatever happened with the fenderz???

Brought them to a shop.  Too much going on to do them myself.