Seems like all of us like to try and plan ahead. Here's a thread to talk about what you're looking into getting down the line.
For me:
Get new taillights, an exhaust, and suspension for the BRZ and pay it off. Hopefully I'll have it paid off by the end of the year or early spring of next year, and all of that done by next summer.
I'm looking at getting another vehicle to go with the BRZ at some point. As of now, it'll most likely be a Honda Element. I always loved the things, and from a practicality stand point, they can't be matched. Awesome for camping, carrying people or things. It's an ugly box, but about as reliable and practical as you can get. It'll be a nice compliment to the BRZ. I was thinking maybe a WRX, but an Element really does everything better except performance driving. I have the BRZ for that.
So, what are you looking to get next?
- LSD, 17" wheels and sticky tires
- rear sway bar
- exhaust and ceramic coated headers
And probably a motorcycle.
At this point, probably a 3 series. I realized that it's about the only car that fits all of my requirements, but finding a 330i manual without a billion miles is proving to be almost impossible.
I'm going to finish up alot of the shit I have laying around. Get my audi finished and get my bike done.
Over the winter I'm going to do a few things on the Z and Miata(possibly a Flying Miata turbo kit).
I don't currently have a car payment, so of course I've got a bug up my ass about buying something. Really at this point my problem is garage space, I don't want to start parking anything nice outside. That is keeping me from buying my next vehicle, which would be either a Cayman S or 911(standard or possibly S).
Quote from: MrH on August 01, 2013, 08:52:44 PM
Seems like all of us like to try and plan ahead. Here's a thread to talk about what you're looking into getting down the line.
For me:
Get new taillights, an exhaust, and suspension for the BRZ and pay it off. Hopefully I'll have it paid off by the end of the year or early spring of next year, and all of that done by next summer.
I'm looking at getting another vehicle to go with the BRZ at some point. As of now, it'll most likely be a Honda Element. I always loved the things, and from a practicality stand point, they can't be matched. Awesome for camping, carrying people or things. It's an ugly box, but about as reliable and practical as you can get. It'll be a nice compliment to the BRZ. I was thinking maybe a WRX, but an Element really does everything better except performance driving. I have the BRZ for that.
So, what are you looking to get next?
What about those used subaru 2.5xt's. Nothing wrong with some utility, that hauls ass.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 01, 2013, 08:55:36 PM
At this point, probably a 3 series. I realized that it's about the only car that fits all of my requirements, but finding a 330i manual without a billion miles is proving to be almost impossible.
Keep looking, if you have the ability to wait you should find something nice.
If your not going to mod it, I'd shoot for a ZHP.
That 325i is the best one I've seen.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 01, 2013, 09:28:24 PM
That 325i is the best one I've seen.
Are you limiting yourself to local?
500 miles
Hmm, seems like a good range. Where are you located?
49037
I need a E46 330i with a manual trans that hasn't driven around the earth 13 times
Possibly an Outback to replace the TSX, but other than that, :huh:
G37's made me happy. I might put a better exhaust system on it sometime, but otherwise, it's pretty much what I want in a car.
Price Cap?
Quote from: Laconian on August 01, 2013, 09:35:56 PM
Possibly an Outback to replace the TSX, but other than that, :huh:
G37's made me happy. I might put a better exhaust system on it sometime, but otherwise, it's pretty much what I want in a car.
Looks alittle stubby to me.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 01, 2013, 09:36:01 PM
Price Cap?
15000
Any more than that and I might as well buy a BRZ.
Considering I haven't driven it in a long time, I'm not doing anything...
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 01, 2013, 09:36:25 PM
Looks alittle stubby to me.
Hahaha. You like my 2 seater mod?
Here's the unsquished car:
https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pPN_fuwXPcVL71BUzspwL7vHuFQJfOID3S5dJZ5BSYiQtwT910biTXMvkyZ2vHcnt2WIgz9DJF7Srck44TEUKpnUWyuE_oN-KWlIeYDRRzTs/DSC_3219e.JPG?psid=1
Are you picky on color or something, I checked out cars.com and shit I'd be in this in a minute.
It's even a ZHP!!!! 51 thousand miles, I think the 5 speed is a misprint,, yup checked the pics it's a 6 speed. I think all ZHP's came with a six speed. It's not listed but it has the wheels(easy to change) but more importantly the suede steering wheel and sports seats(as well as the front bumper cover) are all ZHP.
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=121805620&listingRecNum=8&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26mkId%3D20005%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D20409%26rd%3D500%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-transTypeId-mdId-yrId%26zc%3D49037%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20199%26yrId%3D20143%26yrId%3D20198%26yrId%3D20142%26yrId%3D20197%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1 (http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=121805620&listingRecNum=8&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26mkId%3D20005%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D20409%26rd%3D500%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-transTypeId-mdId-yrId%26zc%3D49037%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20199%26yrId%3D20143%26yrId%3D20198%26yrId%3D20142%26yrId%3D20197%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1)
16k and in New York? I dunno, mang.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 01, 2013, 09:55:32 PM
16k and in New York? I dunno, mang.
request a carfax from the dealer, it most likely hasn't spent ALL of it's life in New York. Unless it's the distance you are complaining about, it is withing 500 miles. Also it's 700 dollars more than your budget.
Why don't you want a E90, their seems to be alot more of them available around the same price.
Nissan Frontier
Then I'll get a trailer and after I've fixed up the Miata I'll look for an R1 or R2 RX-7 with a blown motor that I can get for cheaper. Then I'll use all the stuff in my shop that I got for the Miata project to make the ultimate RX-7.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 01, 2013, 09:58:45 PM
Nissan Frontier
Then I'll get a trailer and after I've fixed up the Miata I'll look for an R1 or R2 RX-7 with a blown motor that I can get for cheaper. Then I'll use all the stuff in my shop that I got for the Miata project to make the ultimate RX-7.
Dude, you don't need a truck. :lol:
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 01, 2013, 09:58:26 PM
request a carfax from the dealer, it most likely hasn't spent ALL of it's life in New York. Unless it's the distance you are complaining about, it is withing 500 miles. Also it's 700 dollars more than your budget.
Why don't you want a E90, their seems to be alot more of them available around the same price.
I'm trying to save money.
Also, I believe the E90 is engineered stupidly. Doesn't it lack a dipstick and have some kind of crazy complicated electric water pump? I think I'd rather have a simpler BMW.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 01, 2013, 10:05:01 PM
I'm trying to save money.
Also, I believe the E90 is engineered stupidly. Doesn't it lack a dipstick and have some kind of crazy complicated electric water pump? I think I'd rather have a simpler BMW.
Yes, I believe it does. Personally I prefer the 46 as well, and the ZHP is the best E46 sedan one can buy. I prefer the sedan to the coupe.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 01, 2013, 09:59:37 PM
Dude, you don't need a truck. :lol:
Shit, I've got to use my dads truck again tomorrow. Going to go pick up my Big Green Egg grill.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 01, 2013, 10:07:45 PM
Shit, I've got to use my dads truck again tomorrow. Going to go pick up my Big Green Egg grill.
LIES!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: Onslaught on August 01, 2013, 10:07:45 PM
Shit, I've got to use my dads truck again tomorrow. Going to go pick up my Big Green Egg grill.
$$$$$$$
Quote from: Laconian on August 01, 2013, 10:11:42 PM
$$$$$$$
Compared to the deck I just built to put it on the Egg won't be that bad. And I'm using the money I charged the glass people who dented my RX-8 to pay for the egg and the accessories. Perhaps next time they won't fuck up someones car and try and get out of it.
My next vehicle will be in addition to the G37 and the Explorer. Surprise surprise it will likely be a 2011 or 2012 Mustang GT California Special. I will replace the suspension with a non-adjustable version of the Boss 302 suspension (pretty much setting #3 which is where virtually every Boss owner leaves it) and it will get the Boss 302 side and rear quad exhaust, and the WMS Racing Ram Air intake and ECU tune. It will pretty much be a Boss clone except in appearance (white with grabber blue LeMans stripes or grabber blue with black LeMans stripes).
Or....
A 2010 Cadillac CTS-V sedan. Doughtful though, since they hold their value exceptionally well.
Quote from: Onslaught on August 01, 2013, 10:16:25 PM
Compared to the deck I just built to put it on the Egg won't be that bad. And I'm using the money I charged the glass people who dented my RX-8 to pay for the egg and the accessories. Perhaps next time they won't fuck up someones car and try and get out of it.
You should be investing, not BBQing!
Quote from: Laconian on August 01, 2013, 10:21:50 PM
You should be investing, not BBQing!
I'm investing in my stomach. It's better then my normal investments, cigars, liquor and strippers.
Versa 1.6
Quote from: 2o6 on August 01, 2013, 10:41:02 PM
Versa 1.6
Is that after you intentionally total the Yaris? :lol:
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 01, 2013, 09:44:41 PM
Are you picky on color or something, I checked out cars.com and shit I'd be in this in a minute.
It's even a ZHP!!!! 51 thousand miles, I think the 5 speed is a misprint,, yup checked the pics it's a 6 speed. I think all ZHP's came with a six speed. It's not listed but it has the wheels(easy to change) but more importantly the suede steering wheel and sports seats(as well as the front bumper cover) are all ZHP.
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=121805620&listingRecNum=8&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26mkId%3D20005%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D20409%26rd%3D500%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-transTypeId-mdId-yrId%26zc%3D49037%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20199%26yrId%3D20143%26yrId%3D20198%26yrId%3D20142%26yrId%3D20197%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1 (http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=121805620&listingRecNum=8&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26mkId%3D20005%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D20409%26rd%3D500%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-transTypeId-mdId-yrId%26zc%3D49037%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20199%26yrId%3D20143%26yrId%3D20198%26yrId%3D20142%26yrId%3D20197%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1)
Ha that thing's in the same town I go to school in
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 01, 2013, 10:43:00 PM
Is that after you intentionally total the Yaris? :lol:
If something happened to the Yaris, I would really look very hard at a new Versa Sedan.
Quote from: 2o6 on August 01, 2013, 10:48:16 PM
If something happened to the Yaris, I would really look very hard at a new Versa Sedan.
Just sell it and buy what you want. It's cheaper than insurance fraud. :lol:
You might also consider an interesting car, but to each his own. :huh:
Or a Nissan Cube.
Next automotive purchase will probably be a long way down the road, I'd guess some sort of used Boxster when the GTI hits 150k+ miles.
Or more likely, a used 3-series/IS.
Ready to buy a 2003-2006 XK8, red (or black) with a white interior. Just looking for the right car at the right price with the right miles.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 01, 2013, 09:30:45 PM
500 miles
Be wary of the miles from your location shown on many of those sites. I think they measure the distance from you in air miles. For example Autotrader shows Carrollton, Texas as 269 miles from me. The shortest reasonable route using google maps or a gps or anything else is 352 miles.
Probably a 2014+ Mazda3 hatchback in a couple of years.
My Protege only has 120,000kms (75k mi) on it, so it's got some life left in it.
I went from 58k miles to 105k miles on the Miata in the last 3 years (in addition to 23k miles on the Mustang!)
A few of the things that'll be done to it in the winter. I plan on finding a used Mini (not MINI) to use while the Miata is in for service.
Reupholster the seats - drivers seat has a huge tear in the bottom cushion, not sure which direction I'll go with this.
Repair the broken console storage lid bracket
Re-wrap the steering wheel - the leather has worn through, might as well get some good looking stuff on the shifter and handbrake lever too
Fix the glovebox door sag
Rear bulkhead partition has some bolts that have broken off
Grease the folding top hardware
Find new fitted floormats
Fix the oil leak coming from the rear crank seal or oil pan
New clutch or adjust have the current one adjusted. I have about .5" of engagement, abrubt as shit.
Have the rocker panel rust removed/repainted
New front yokotama S Drive tires for the 6ULs
Rebalance the stock wheels and buy some slick all season tires for them
Frog arms
Shock tower brace
I'm thinking about a new windshield/new shocks and having the rear spoiler removed. The windshield is pitted to hell and I think the shocks may be worn, but maybe I should wait a bit more until they really need to be replaced.
Most likely a C7 in a year or two.
A working left headlamp.
After that, a $4,000-$6,000 FWD or AWD car by next winter.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 01, 2013, 09:24:21 PM
I'm going to finish up alot of the shit I have laying around. Get my audi finished and get my bike done.
Over the winter I'm going to do a few things on the Z and Miata(possibly a Flying Miata turbo kit).
I don't currently have a car payment, so of course I've got a bug up my ass about buying something. Really at this point my problem is garage space, I don't want to start parking anything nice outside. That is keeping me from buying my next vehicle, which would be either a Cayman S or 911(standard or possibly S).
You have a bike?
Heres my plan for the 3 rides:
Bike:
- Finish up the fairing & headlight wiring. I was thinking about doing an HID retro but it's kind of pointless now as I don't think I will ever ride at night. I am not even keen on riding on the street, unless it's in the twisties which are at least 60 miles away
- Do maintenance- oil change, brake flush and SS front brake lines. Debating getting new tires too, the ones on the bike came with it new (it is a 2006 :mask: )
- Get riser clipons so I can ride to the mountains and back without excruciating back pain.
- Get shit to be able to throw the bike in a U haul van/truck to take to track days.
Z:
- I just replaced the radio. I do kind of want harder hitting bass though.
- Basic performance mods- new mild drop springs/shocks, intake, plenum spacer, long tube headers, exhaust
- OEM Nismo V2 or V3 front bumper
- 2006 + headlights
- Gunmetal or "hyper black" wheels (18x9s all around)
- Engine is up there in miles. I am figuring I will get another 100K out of it. Once I do that I would love to do a build. 3.8L from big bore pistons, 12:1 compression, Brian Crower camshafts, HR valvesprings. Should put down as much power as an E46 M3 and it will be cheaper than buying a newer car by that point. That is like 4-5 years away though.... unless I really grow to absolutely love this car I can't say for sure I will keep it that long.
Rabbit:
- Wifey could use navigation... Eonon sells Windows based headunits that fit like stock and have navi with traffic etc for not a lot of money. Maybe for Xmas.
- Wifey's headlights are OK but an upgrade to bixenon projectors wouldn't hurt. Whole kit is about $300 and a day of work.
- After driving the Z the Rabbit's suspension feels doughy. Could def use better body control and maybe a little less ride height. Again though, while I like the Rabbit my heart was really set on a 2.0T Passat wagon. I wouldn't mind just upgrading to one with navigation in ~3 yrs, and by then the TFSIs without the carbon buildup problems will be in our price range. Plus by then I could rationalize a bigger car for her with the impending children :mask:
Right now though I am not looking to do much... at most the bike stuff, wifey's headlights and just general maintenance (oil changes etc). Won't really start messing with mods and track days till next year. Priority 1 is getting a house.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 02, 2013, 08:11:45 AM
You have a bike?
I've got a 2011 Ninja 650R that I've been in the middle of fixing for about 6 months now(maybe more). I just need to get off my ass and paint it, other than that It's ready to go. I already have the color made up and have done a few spray outs.
Nice, that's a good bike.
I really should get my windows tinted. But I tell myself that every year, so who knows...
Eventually, I'd like to pick up another convertible. Probably an E92, maybe a 2011+ Mustang or Camaro. I miss top-down motoring.
I plan on keeping the Kiz for about a decade, so no new cars in the horizon. I just want to tint it and I'm done modding it.
The SV I love as it is - I'll probably keep it until I pay off the Kizashi and then start looking for a Street Triple R to replace it with.
Ive been itching for something to work on, but I need a garage first. I still keep my eyes peeled on CL for old motorcycles to restore/tune. I think I'd enjoy working on a vehicle for fun, versus out of necessity and being dirt poor like with my past cars haha.
I feel like everyone who sells their SV regrets it. I want one for my next bike
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 02, 2013, 10:08:24 AM
I feel like everyone who sells their SV regrets it. I want one for my next bike
But v-twin. :(
If it were an I4, it'd be my perfect starter bike.
I'm going to tear down the Miata over the winter, rebuild the engine, paint and reassemble. Parts I'm ordering are new suspension, engine overhaul kit (timing belt, seals, etc), new interior bits (carpet, seat skins), composite tonneau fairing, etc. Still up in the air over colour... reason tells me to stick with BRG, but maybe something cool and unique for a Miata (Candy Apple Red)?
Quote from: Rockraven on August 02, 2013, 10:56:27 AM
I'm going to tear down the Miata over the winter, rebuild the engine, paint and reassemble. Parts I'm ordering are new suspension, engine overhaul kit (timing belt, seals, etc), new interior bits (carpet, seat skins), composite tonneau fairing, etc. Still up in the air over colour... reason tells me to stick with BRG, but maybe something cool and unique for a Miata (Candy Apple Red)?
Unless you can repaint everything (door jambs, engine bay, underside of car, etc), I'd leave it BRG. Hell, I'd leave it BRG just because that's one of the more desirable colors on the Miata, IMO.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 02, 2013, 10:08:24 AM
I feel like everyone who sells their SV regrets it. I want one for my next bike
I hear that so often too. Maybe I should just have two bikes :devil:
It's just test-riding the STR was a celestial experience, an amazing bike that I just have to have one day.
Quote from: thecarnut on August 02, 2013, 10:53:59 AM
But v-twin. :(
If it were an I4, it'd be my perfect starter bike.
I loooove the torque of the V-Twin. On my old tires, i'd get wheelspin in 1st and 2nd from about 4k rpm.
Quote from: Speed_Racer on August 02, 2013, 11:06:46 AM
I hear that so often too. Maybe I should just have two bikes :devil:
It's just test-riding the STR was a celestial experience, an amazing bike that I just have to have one day.
I loooove the torque of the V-Twin. On my old tires, i'd get wheelspin in 1st and 2nd from about 4k rpm.
I guess I'd have to ride an SV to find out how the vtwin is. I also love the Buell XB9/12R but again, the v twin kind of ruins it for me.
Quote from: Rockraven on August 02, 2013, 10:56:27 AM
I'm going to tear down the Miata over the winter, rebuild the engine, paint and reassemble. Parts I'm ordering are new suspension, engine overhaul kit (timing belt, seals, etc), new interior bits (carpet, seat skins), composite tonneau fairing, etc. Still up in the air over colour... reason tells me to stick with BRG, but maybe something cool and unique for a Miata (Candy Apple Red)?
What color is your interior and top?
Mine is black exterior with tan interior and top. I would love to paint it a nice deep burgundy or maybe a bright or medium sliver. Either would look great with the tan's and be much much less work than black.
Quote from: thecarnut on August 02, 2013, 11:09:43 AM
I guess I'd have to ride an SV to find out how the vtwin is. I also love the Buell XB9/12R but again, the v twin kind of ruins it for me.
I actually looked into those as they were priced right. But those V-Twins are 45 degree Harley twins - rough idle, lumpy, vibrates every bolt until the whole bike falls apart. Sounds like potatopotato.
SVs have a 90 degree v-twin, smooth idle and smooth running. Sounds like muscle car. I only get pants vibrations near redline.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 02, 2013, 11:20:18 AM
What color is your interior and top?
Mine is black exterior with tan interior and top. I would love to paint it a nice deep burgundy or maybe a bright or medium sliver. Either would look great with the tan's and be much much less work than black.
If you want silver, why not just get a silver Miata instead of repainting?
Quote from: thecarnut on August 02, 2013, 11:55:33 AM
If you want silver, why not just get a silver Miata instead of repainting?
I didn't think they came in any darker silvers.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 02, 2013, 11:20:18 AM
What color is your interior and top?
Mine is black exterior with tan interior and top. I would love to paint it a nice deep burgundy or maybe a bright or medium sliver. Either would look great with the tan's and be much much less work than black.
Black/tan interior, black top. I'm thinking going with black seats, so only lower dash and door panels will be tan, but I might just change everything to black.
Quote from: thecarnut on August 02, 2013, 10:58:55 AM
Unless you can repaint everything (door jambs, engine bay, underside of car, etc), I'd leave it BRG. Hell, I'd leave it BRG just because that's one of the more desirable colors on the Miata, IMO.
Car will be stripped completely and media blasted. Co-worker has all the goodies to make this happen (sandblasting and paint booths). :dance:
Quote from: thecarnut on August 02, 2013, 11:55:33 AM
If you want silver, why not just get a silver Miata instead of repainting?
Fun winter project. Surely I shouldn't have to explain this to you of all people.
Quote from: Rockraven on August 02, 2013, 01:09:43 PM
Fun winter project. Surely I shouldn't have to explain this to you of all people.
Yeah, but to me silver is so boring. I can see something like a candy apple red (though I wouldn't pick that color, necessarily) or something wild, but a silver is easily available...
Quote from: Speed_Racer on August 02, 2013, 11:06:46 AM
I hear that so often too. Maybe I should just have two bikes :devil:
It's just test-riding the STR was a celestial experience, an amazing bike that I just have to have one day.
I loooove the torque of the V-Twin. On my old tires, i'd get wheelspin in 1st and 2nd from about 4k rpm.
I have a soft spot for those too, but I don't ever want a naked bike again. It would have to be something like a TU250X or something. Beautiful beautiful bikes though, great rides as well.
I like twins for the street. Powerbands on twins make more sense for regular riding. I dont get any wheelspin on my bike but a clutch dump from 3-4K will launch as good as any AWD car. Plus it's nice to not have to shift to make a pass on the highway. The I2 is like a paintshaker though. Makes my hands numb
Quote from: Rockraven on August 02, 2013, 01:06:08 PM
Black/tan interior, black top. I'm thinking going with black seats, so only lower dash and door panels will be tan, but I might just change everything to black.
Black leather in a convertible in Southern Ontario probably isn't a great idea.
Quote from: SVT666 on August 02, 2013, 02:07:23 PM
Black leather in a convertible in Southern Ontario probably isn't a great idea.
I wasn't going to say anything, but it sounded like a nutty idea to me.
Quote from: SVT666 on August 02, 2013, 02:07:23 PM
Black leather in a convertible in Southern Ontario probably isn't a great idea.
I had black leather and black paint on the s2k. As long as you put the top up and windows down when you have to park under the sun, it shouldn't be too bad. And be sure to use a windshield reflector. Laying out a white towel on your seat bottom should help as well.
Quote from: Vinsanity on August 02, 2013, 02:48:11 PM
I had black leather and black paint on the s2k. As long as you put the top up and windows down when you have to park under the sun, it shouldn't be too bad. And be sure to use a windshield reflector. Laying out a white towel on your seat bottom should help as well.
Sounds like unnecessary work. Either way the problem that I think of with a black interior in a convertible has nothing to do with parking. What about when you have the top down and you're out driving around for a few hours?
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 02, 2013, 04:07:51 PM
Sounds like unnecessary work. Either way the problem that I think of with a black interior in a convertible has nothing to do with parking. What about when you have the top down and you're out driving around for a few hours?
Your seat won't absorb that much heat from the sunlight while you're sitting in it. At least from what I felt.
Quote from: Vinsanity on August 02, 2013, 04:10:50 PM
Your seat won't absorb that much heat from the sunlight while you're sitting in it. At least from what I felt.
I was thinking about everything else you touch, and black would radiate more heat back and around your body.
These issued coupled with that fact that, IMO, all black interiors just don't look good. I used to like them but multi-tone and lighter colors just look more righ and seem to have more character/depth.
I had a car with black leather... it was pretty brutal. Exterior was black too which didn't help. It got hot enough to burn skin sometimes
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 02, 2013, 04:13:09 PM
I was thinking about everything else you touch, and black would radiate more heat back and around your body.
These issued coupled with that fact that, IMO, all black interiors just don't look good. I used to like them but multi-tone and lighter colors just look more righ and seem to have more character/depth.
Well I never drove for more than an hour with the top down, so it never got that bad for me.
I agree 100% on the all-black interiors vs. multi-tone.
I'm thinking about another C6 Vette within the next year. Hopefully I can find a GS Vert in my price range but if not a base Vette will do. That will hold me over until I can afford a C7 Vette! I also want an Outback as a winter beater at some point....
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on August 02, 2013, 07:05:29 PM
I'm thinking about another C6 Vette within the next year. Hopefully I can find a GS Vert in my price range but if not a base Vette will do. That will hold me over until I can afford a C7 Vette! I also want an Outback as a winter beater at some point....
Better not get the wimpy autotragic this time. :evildude:
Forgot to put that I might upgrade to disk brakes in the rear if/when I get new wheels.
So 280, did you check out that ZHP or is it too far/too risky.
I really want to do a T-5 swap on the wagon after having had time with one in Per's Mustang. Manual options for B-body Mopars are the (really fucking old and expensive) A-833 original 4 speed, too-big NPX5XX truck transmissions, weird combinations from Supras, blah blah, or this. Mopar-to-Ford bellhousing adapter, T-5, clutch shit, blam, it works.
Just watched a presentation of the C7 at the NCM, and I'll be damned if I don't find a way to buy a new C7 'vert whenever I get back to the states.
The other half of me wants to keep the Miata in almost like new condition and pick up a used 2006 Mustang GT to go with it, though.
Quote from: thecarnut on August 02, 2013, 07:06:44 PM
Better not get the wimpy autotragic this time. :evildude:
:nono: I'll never own an auto Vette again!
I see three options for my next major car purchase:
1) Head gasket repair and t-belt replacement for the Outback. Not exciting, but will need to happen as soon as the oil starts looking milky. Can afford to do it now, but trying to string it along.
2) Something cheap and off the wall. Maybe a V70R? Wouldn't make a whole lot of sense, but I kinda just want something different but I don't feel like I drive enough for a car payment to make sense.
3) Infiniti G37s. Chat thread regulars will note I drove a G25 yesterday and was pretty impressed with everything but the get-up and go. Undecided if I would do an AT or MT. A MT is very manageable in Dallas traffic, but high probability I'd be moving elsewhere during the lifespan of the car. Somewhere like Seattle, Atlanta, or Denver, known for having bad traffic. And, if I am honest, I don't think I get much extra out of a MT, especially compared to modern ATs that shift fairly quickly (the only time I have regularly driven an AT was a '98 durango, which was insufferable, but transmissions have come a long way since then). Could afford one now and could very easily afford one next year when I get a big raise, but, as noted above, just don't know that a car payment makes sense in my circumstances. I drove way more than I expected last year, which added up to 8k miles.
Quote from: TBR on August 04, 2013, 09:35:27 AM
I see three options for my next major car purchase:
1) Head gasket repair and t-belt replacement for the Outback. Not exciting, but will need to happen as soon as the oil starts looking milky. Can afford to do it now, but trying to string it along.
2) Something cheap and off the wall. Maybe a V70R? Wouldn't make a whole lot of sense, but I kinda just want something different but I don't feel like I drive enough for a car payment to make sense.
3) Infiniti G37s. Chat thread regulars will note I drove a G25 yesterday and was pretty impressed with everything but the get-up and go. Undecided if I would do an AT or MT. A MT is very manageable in Dallas traffic, but high probability I'd be moving elsewhere during the lifespan of the car. Somewhere like Seattle, Atlanta, or Denver, known for having bad traffic. And, if I am honest, I don't think I get much extra out of a MT, especially compared to modern ATs that shift fairly quickly (the only time I have regularly driven an AT was a '98 durango, which was insufferable, but transmissions have come a long way since then). Could afford one now and could very easily afford one next year when I get a big raise, but, as noted above, just don't know that a car payment makes sense in my circumstances. I drove way more than I expected last year, which added up to 8k miles.
IIRC, the infiniti automatic in the G37 is praised as one of the best torque converter auto's in a performance sedan. I've read several reviews where performance is almost on par with a dual clutch(shift speed, holding gears, etc).
TBR I would def drive both before committing to one transmission
Infiniti's 7AT is damn good, but there is something special about driving stickshift if the conditions entertain it.
Obviously I'm biased, but I loved the 6MT G far more than the 7AT. Something about having a luxury sedan with a ton of features and a shit ton of power but still keeping the manual just seems so right. It's like having your cake and eating it, too.
That said, the 7AT was still quite nice and if you do get a G37 auto, be sure to get the sports package to get the bigger wheels/tires, the sport suspension and LSD, and the paddle shifters. The 6MT sedans all come with the sports package (and the other packages) standard.
The sports package looks much better, so I'd probably want that for sure, but, real talk here, the LSD and sports suspension don't really matter to me, not with how I drive.
I'd definitely test drive a 6MT before a buying a 7AT; I am not set either way.
Quote from: thecarnut on August 04, 2013, 12:19:47 PM
Obviously I'm biased, but I loved the 6MT G far more than the 7AT. Something about having a luxury sedan with a ton of features and a shit ton of power but still keeping the manual just seems so right. It's like having your cake and eating it, too.
That said, the 7AT was still quite nice and if you do get a G37 auto, be sure to get the sports package to get the bigger wheels/tires, the sport suspension and LSD, and the paddle shifters. The 6MT sedans all come with the sports package (and the other packages) standard.
You could only get an 6MT in the G35/7, coupe or sedan, if you bought the Sport trim (which was also the most expensive trim).
VF39, larger intercooler. Maybe a mild axleback exhaust.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on August 04, 2013, 10:06:47 AM
IIRC, the infiniti automatic in the G37 is praised as one of the best torque converter auto's in a performance sedan. I've read several reviews where performance is almost on par with a dual clutch(shift speed, holding gears, etc).
The G37 7AT is at best mediocre. Lots and lots of grumbling about it on the various G boards. Infiniti has had some reprogramming TSBs (I had it done, and it helped, but the innate flaws are still there). No one can quite figure it out. The FX and M generally don't have these problems - perhaps it's not the same 7AT? (I had an FX35 loaner earlier this week, and it was indeed better). It does okay, and really anyone perofrmance driving will be manually shifting, but he'll definitely want to drive one.
As little as possible on the Explorer, about the same with the Alfa (all that concerns me is an oil-on-exhaust smell sometimes), and a fair amount on the 944. It's got a number of minor rattles and stuff, it needs a new hood liner, the heater is screwed up, there's a clunk when I turn left, the suspension needs to be updated/modified (worn out), I want to get a MAF to replace the AFM, and the dashboard is cracked. Nothing really critical, but quite a bit nonetheless.
Next car purchase... :huh:
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 02, 2013, 08:33:43 PM
Forgot to put that I might upgrade to disk brakes in the rear if/when I get new wheels.
What problem are you addressing when you do that?
Quote from: MiataJohn on August 10, 2013, 04:18:32 PM
What problem are you addressing when you do that?
Maybe a little more stopping power overall, prevent brake fade after hard use, and most importantly look prettier behind the shiny new wheels.
Quote from: S204STi on August 10, 2013, 01:49:34 PM
VF39, larger intercooler. Maybe a mild axleback exhaust.
That is gonna rip... your car has the 2.5 too right
Despite Cougs protests I really want an intake and exhaust. I feel like this thing will sound incredible opened up. I just don't want the exhaust to be droney on the highway. I am thinking about just getting straight dual 2.5" pipes to the back and then using some conventional baffled mufflers. I had that setup on a few other cars and it worked nicely for pretty cheap. JWT pop charger is only ~$120 bucks.
Stock brakes also suck... my fucking (Prelude brake swapped) Accord had bigger front rotors :hammerhead: Brembo upgrade is a little pricey and I am not sure the calipers would be the weak link even at a track day. There is an OE caliper BBK upgrade (11" to 13") for a doable price. I do drive a bit aggressively and haven't seen much fade though.
I need to get some basic tools as well. Gonna hit up Harbor Freight some time this week to get a jack, jackstands and front/rear bike stands. Then I will be ready to work.
I don't think I'd buy any of that stuff from Harbor Freight...
Whew just read some reviews. Yea a couple bucks is not worth my life. Eh I might still get the bike stands from them though... won't be using them much and a lot of folks like em.
Jacks seem to have got expensive in the last 10 yrs.
Sears, mang. Almost nothing is worth buying at HF, unless you'll almost never use it and it won't kill you when it dies.
The jack doesn't have to be great, because you always have good jack stands doing the actual supporting, but cheap jacks suck to use anyway.
My jack stands are 12x14x16 inch blocks of white oak that I "inherited" from my time with the ironworkers.
They've held up 250 ton presses, I think they might be safe for my cars.
Well Ill be a huckleberry hound, Craftsman jack and stands for $60. And there's a Sears 1 exit away. Thanks for the heads up.
E-yup. Craftsman is probably overpriced, but it's still way cheaper than Snap-On and waaay better than HF and similar. I buy a lot of Craftsman.
I wouldn't bother with Snap-On unless you're an actual mechanic. Craftsman is just about as good (other than warranty) and cheaper. Harbor Freight is good for throw away tools.
Right. And some of the Craftsman stuff is still lifetime warranted. I've got a couple of ratchets replaced.
I used some Duralast jackstands for my car. They were like $20. :lol:
I would put my car on HF stands as well, but it doesn't weigh that much so I'm not concerned with the stands failing.
Quote from: Rupert on August 10, 2013, 06:28:43 PM
Right. And some of the Craftsman stuff is still lifetime warranted. I've got a couple of ratchets replaced.
Wonder if their 1/4" ratchets have that. Seems like those are really fragile and need to be replaced a lot.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 10, 2013, 05:02:05 PM
That is gonna rip... your car has the 2.5 too right
Despite Cougs protests I really want an intake and exhaust. I feel like this thing will sound incredible opened up. I just don't want the exhaust to be droney on the highway. I am thinking about just getting straight dual 2.5" pipes to the back and then using some conventional baffled mufflers. I had that setup on a few other cars and it worked nicely for pretty cheap. JWT pop charger is only ~$120 bucks.
Stock brakes also suck... my fucking (Prelude brake swapped) Accord had bigger front rotors :hammerhead: Brembo upgrade is a little pricey and I am not sure the calipers would be the weak link even at a track day. There is an OE caliper BBK upgrade (11" to 13") for a doable price. I do drive a bit aggressively and haven't seen much fade though.
I need to get some basic tools as well. Gonna hit up Harbor Freight some time this week to get a jack, jackstands and front/rear bike stands. Then I will be ready to work.
Oh yeah... 330hp easy, maybe more, since the STI has the same motor and those things uncorked are good for around 350hp. My only concern then would be the 5-speed, which is made of glass.
How hard is it to find used 350Z brembo parts?
Quote from: S204STi on August 10, 2013, 07:36:34 PM
Oh yeah... 330hp easy, maybe more, since the STI has the same motor and those things uncorked are good for around 350hp. My only concern then would be the 5-speed, which is made of glass.
How hard is it to find used 350Z brembo parts?
Also, I'd get the Sears jack and jackstands, but do what you think is best.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 10, 2013, 07:06:37 PM
Wonder if their 1/4" ratchets have that. Seems like those are really fragile and need to be replaced a lot.
Yep, that's what I've had replaced. :lol:
Quote from: S204STi on August 10, 2013, 07:36:34 PM
Oh yeah... 330hp easy, maybe more, since the STI has the same motor and those things uncorked are good for around 350hp. My only concern then would be the 5-speed, which is made of glass.
How hard is it to find used 350Z brembo parts?
I didnt find anything on Ebay. Only real advantage is the multiple piston calipers, which I don't really care about. I would rather fight fade, which the bigger rotors and SS lines would do more for. Stock brakes don't feel too bad, but they would def get nuked on a track.
Can you do a 6 speed swap, or is there a problem with the DCCD or w/e?
Have you done many track days, sporty?
None yet... part of why I wanted to leave NY. I am pretty much done with riding on the street, and the Z needs room to stretch its legs every now and then
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 10, 2013, 08:19:00 PM
I didnt find anything on Ebay. Only real advantage is the multiple piston calipers, which I don't really care about. I would rather fight fade, which the bigger rotors and SS lines would do more for. Stock brakes don't feel too bad, but they would def get nuked on a track.
Can you do a 6 speed swap, or is there a problem with the DCCD or w/e?
You could either hook up an aftermarket controller, leave it always open, or do a Spec B legacy trans, which has a mechanical Torsen center diff instead of the dccd. The last option would be my choice.
Quote from: Rupert on August 10, 2013, 08:15:02 PM
Yep, that's what I've had replaced. :lol:
My snap on 1/4 ratchet seems bomb proof...
Quote from: S204STi on August 10, 2013, 09:37:16 PM
My snap on 1/4 ratchet seems bomb proof...
How much did it cost?
Quick search online is showing $60-110 depending on exact model. :mask: Craftsman is $10-20.
Yeah, I'm sure it is, but the costs still don't work out in its favor for non-professionals like me.
My uncle has been a heavy duty mechanic for 40 years and most of his tolls are Craftsman with a few Snap-ons. He claims the Craftsmans are pretty much as good as the Snap-on tools for a third the cost and they still have a lifetime warranty. The only Snap-on tools he has are ones that either Craftsman doesn't make or the ones that they do make don't work as well.
I think this thread should be called, "Your Next Automotive Project," since we mostly aren't talking about buying whole cars.
Quote from: SVT666 on August 10, 2013, 11:48:16 PM
My uncle has been a heavy duty mechanic for 40 years and most of his tolls are Craftsman with a few Snap-ons. He claims the Craftsmans are pretty much as good as the Snap-on tools for a third the cost and they still have a lifetime warranty. The only Snap-on tools he has are ones that either Craftsman doesn't make or the ones that they do make don't work as well.
I have a decent mix of both. For hand tools, SnapOn is far better, like exponentially. For air tools, I like Ingersoll Rand.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 10, 2013, 09:47:18 PM
How much did it cost?
Quick search online is showing $60-110 depending on exact model. :mask: Craftsman is $10-20.
I suspect it's in the middle of the range.
Quote from: S204STi on August 11, 2013, 12:50:32 AM
I have a decent mix of both. For hand tools, SnapOn is far better, like exponentially. For air tools, I like Ingersoll Rand.
Craftsman's "professional" line is near Snap-On in quality.
Quote from: SVT666 on August 10, 2013, 11:48:16 PM
My uncle has been a heavy duty mechanic for 40 years and most of his tolls are Craftsman with a few Snap-ons. He claims the Craftsmans are pretty much as good as the Snap-on tools for a third the cost and they still have a lifetime warranty. The only Snap-on tools he has are ones that either Craftsman doesn't make or the ones that they do make don't work as well.
When I first got into working on cars you could see a differance from one tool brand and the other. Many of the MAC, SNAP-ON and Craftsman tools now are the exact same tool made in china and sold at a different price. The only reason to buy a MAC or SNAP-ON tool is having the dealer drive up to you every week or after a phone call to replace your tool when it breaks. With craftsman you must get in the car and drive however far it is to do that.
J work for harbour freight
I agree with everything said
Quote from: Soup DeVille on August 11, 2013, 01:19:45 AM
Craftsman's "professional" line is near Snap-On in quality.
Not really...
Quote from: Onslaught on August 11, 2013, 05:02:42 AM
When I first got into working on cars you could see a differance from one tool brand and the other. Many of the MAC, SNAP-ON and Craftsman tools now are the exact same tool made in china and sold at a different price. The only reason to buy a MAC or SNAP-ON tool is having the dealer drive up to you every week or after a phone call to replace your tool when it breaks. With craftsman you must get in the car and drive however far it is to do that.
Not really...
SnapOn socket wrenches have a higher tooth count compared to competitors, meaning more useable degrees of rotation (important in tight spaces), their combination wrenches are not only longer, but more comfortable in your hand, and their bolt-gripping open ends don't round nearly as easily as my Mac combo wrench. Those are the main distinctions unless you get into specialty tools, where, again, SnapOn tends to have significantly higher quality. For air tools, I'd rather go with rebranded IR from Mac, or Cornhole.
Quote from: S204STi on August 11, 2013, 01:54:46 PM
SnapOn socket wrenches have a higher tooth count compared to competitors, meaning more useable degrees of rotation (important in tight spaces), their combination wrenches are not only longer, but more comfortable in your hand, and their bolt-gripping open ends don't round nearly as easily as my Mac combo wrench. Those are the main distinctions unless you get into specialty tools, where, again, SnapOn tends to have significantly higher quality. For air tools, I'd rather go with rebranded IR from Mac, or Cornhole.
:mask:
Hehe, Cornhole...
I can't figure out if you think all of us mere amateurs should all go out and spend $1000 on Snap-On tools.
Quote from: Rupert on August 11, 2013, 02:28:13 PM
Hehe, Cornhole...
I can't figure out if you think all of us mere amateurs should all go out and spend $1000 on Snap-On tools.
No, I should clarify: craftsmen is very good, but there is a difference, which I've quantified over the last 8 years. That said, go with craftsman if you want quality at an affordable price point.
Quote from: Northlands on August 11, 2013, 02:27:33 PM
:mask:
Cornwell is the name of the distributor, but everyone calls them Cornhole. :lol:
Quote from: S204STi on August 11, 2013, 01:51:15 PM
Not really...
Ya really "near." Not quite, but very near. And yes: I too, use them on a daily basis.
Quote from: S204STi on August 11, 2013, 01:54:46 PM
SnapOn socket wrenches have a higher tooth count compared to competitors, meaning more useable degrees of rotation (important in tight spaces), their combination wrenches are not only longer, but more comfortable in your hand, and their bolt-gripping open ends don't round nearly as easily as my Mac combo wrench. Those are the main distinctions unless you get into specialty tools, where, again, SnapOn tends to have significantly higher quality. For air tools, I'd rather go with rebranded IR from Mac, or Cornhole.
Longer isn't always a benefit- which is why I have a full set of combo wrenches in three different lengths.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on August 11, 2013, 05:33:03 PM
Longer isn't always a benefit- which is why I have a full set of combo wrenches in three different lengths.
I have various lengths as well, but longer is better for applying torque...
But, for most buyers, yes, craftsman is good.
Quote from: S204STi on August 11, 2013, 04:59:43 PM
Cornwell is the name of the distributor, but everyone calls them Cornhole. :lol:
Ahhh. :lol:
My dad uses a lot of Craftsman. When a tool breaks (rare), he just brings it to a Sears and they exchange it with a new one. No receipt needed. It's only happened once or twice though, and his tools are a few decades old.
My wrenches are Channellock, love them. But I'm buying more Craftsman for the lifetime warranty and ease of exchange. As long as Sears is around that is...
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 10, 2013, 05:02:05 PM
That is gonna rip... your car has the 2.5 too right
Despite Cougs protests I really want an intake and exhaust. I feel like this thing will sound incredible opened up. I just don't want the exhaust to be droney on the highway. I am thinking about just getting straight dual 2.5" pipes to the back and then using some conventional baffled mufflers. I had that setup on a few other cars and it worked nicely for pretty cheap. JWT pop charger is only ~$120 bucks.
Stock brakes also suck... my fucking (Prelude brake swapped) Accord had bigger front rotors :hammerhead: Brembo upgrade is a little pricey and I am not sure the calipers would be the weak link even at a track day. There is an OE caliper BBK upgrade (11" to 13") for a doable price. I do drive a bit aggressively and haven't seen much fade though.
I need to get some basic tools as well. Gonna hit up Harbor Freight some time this week to get a jack, jackstands and front/rear bike stands. Then I will be ready to work.
How do you know the stock brakes suck? Simply because of rotor size?
Bigger rotors won't really get you anything on an otherwise stock car. You'll have better luck with pads, fluid and tires. Beyond that you'll need a complete brake system redo to get any material improvement - different (but not necessarily larger) rotors, better calipers (more and/or bigger pistons) plus attention to (or replacement of) some/many/most of the finer details: brake lines, master cylinder, booster, reservoir, proportioning valve, and the whole of the ABS system (controller, pump, modulator, sensor).
Quote from: GoCougs on August 12, 2013, 12:32:54 AM
How do you know the stock brakes suck? Simply because of rotor size?
Fade. Bigger rotors = bigger heat sink. Though to fully wipe out fade I would need steel braided lines and bigger calipers/pads. But for now, bigger rotors + Hawk HPS pads + steel lines will do.
My only fear is that bigger rotors in front will hurt the brake balance. I definitely like to trail brake when pushing and the stock balance is good for that. But even on little light highway runs I can feel the brakes start to fade. Again my last Accord weighed a good 300lbs less and had ~1" more front brake rotor diameter. So brake wise the Z is a big downgrade
If you aren't experiencing fade then why go to the expense?
I never experienced fade, but it didn't stop me from upgrading some components when I did brakes on my car. I kept stock rotor size, however, and just went with better pads. Those made a huge difference. (HP Plus up front, HPS in the rear). The tradeoff was more brake noise, but with such awesome and consistent pedal feel I could hardly care less about that.
Quote from: SVT666 on August 12, 2013, 11:11:51 AM
If you aren't experiencing fade then why go to the expense?
I am. Not a ton, but enough to know that at a track the brakes would be a weak link. Stock non Brembos are dinky
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 12, 2013, 05:30:00 AM
Fade. Bigger rotors = bigger heat sink. Though to fully wipe out fade I would need steel braided lines and bigger calipers/pads. But for now, bigger rotors + Hawk HPS pads + steel lines will do.
My only fear is that bigger rotors in front will hurt the brake balance. I definitely like to trail brake when pushing and the stock balance is good for that. But even on little light highway runs I can feel the brakes start to fade. Again my last Accord weighed a good 300lbs less and had ~1" more front brake rotor diameter. So brake wise the Z is a big downgrade
And bigger rotors = more mass = take longer to cool down when they do get hot. That's why manufacturers pretty much never just use bigger rotor with their brake upgrade option. Brake design is a system endeavor (and in particular, managing heat).
Reason why I mentioned pads and fluid is thin pads can contribute to pedal/brake fade and low and/or cheap fluid can be prone to boiling quicker. If you're getting fade on "little light" runs my hunch is there's a deficiency somewhere.
To get materially better braking you'll have to do what Nissan did originally (Brembo upgrade, which addresses pretty everything I listed above).
Quote from: GoCougs on August 12, 2013, 12:19:07 PM
And bigger rotors = more mass = take longer to cool down when they do get hot. That's why manufacturers pretty much never just use bigger rotor with their brake upgrade option. Brake design is a system endeavor (and in particular, managing heat).
Reason why I mentioned pads and fluid is thin pads can contribute to pedal/brake fade and low and/or cheap fluid can be prone to boiling quicker. If you're getting fade on "little light" runs my hunch is there's a deficiency somewhere.
To get materially better braking you'll have to do what Nissan did originally (Brembo upgrade, which addresses pretty everything I listed above).
These bigger rotors damn near double the rotor mass. And they come with new pads. I'd also do SS lines too which would require new fluid. So the only remaining stock piece would be the caliper. But pretty much every piece and issue you touch on would be addressed. The only lingering issues would be how the single piston would wear the pads, and if I would need a new MC to deal with fixing the brake bias.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 12, 2013, 01:10:05 PM
These bigger rotors damn near double the rotor mass. And they come with new pads. I'd also do SS lines too which would require new fluid. So the only remaining stock piece would be the caliper. But pretty much every piece and issue you touch on would be addressed. The only lingering issues would be how the single piston would wear the pads, and if I would need a new MC to deal with fixing the brake bias.
Sounds like a ton more unsprung weight then.
Sorry, sounds like a hack job and unlikely to work better overall than your stock system esp. considering reliability. You're not going to outdo Nissan with bolt-ons out of a catalog, unless it's the whole brake system (rotors, calipers, lines, master cylinder, booster, reservoir, ABS system, and probably other things).
Just go with good pads, new fluid and good tires.
Didn't Nissan have problems with the 350Z's (or was it 370Z?) brakes? I remember that Car and Driver planted one into a retaining wall not too long ago and ended up doing a braking comparison test, only to find out there wasn't enough cooling and the brake fluid overheated.
Quote from: 3.0L V6 on August 12, 2013, 01:34:39 PM
Didn't Nissan have problems with the 350Z's (or was it 370Z?) brakes? I remember that Car and Driver planted one into a retaining wall not too long ago and ended up doing a braking comparison test, only to find out there wasn't enough cooling and the brake fluid overheated.
They concluded it was boiling fluid owing to the quick nature of the failure (i.e., fluid boils or it doesn't whereas brake fade builds), which probably isn't fixed by larger rotors.
I'm with Cougs on this one, but more because I think track days are a dumb excuse when you've never even done a track day before.
Most all the value in mods is in the action, not the result, which having done plenty of, I can identify with. Thing is, results (or lack thereof) do count, esp. as we get older as we need our cars to be daily drivable.
Quote from: Rupert on August 12, 2013, 02:50:23 PM
I'm with Cougs on this one, but more because I think track days are a dumb excuse when you've never even done a track day before.
Having the infrastructure to do track days regularly is part of why I left NYC
I'm not quite sure what Cougs is getting at. Larger brakes run cooler, that's a fact. I don't know if he thinks if there's some kind of engineering voodoo that magically takes away heat or what, but larger rotors would certainly result in lower temperatures. How much, I don't know.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 12, 2013, 03:22:01 PM
I'm not quite sure what Cougs is getting at. Larger brakes run cooler, that's a fact. I don't know if he thinks if there's some kind of engineering voodoo that magically takes away heat or what, but larger rotors would certainly result in lower temperatures. How much, I don't know.
Take a look at a brake test performed by C&D (http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-power-to-stop-luxury-suvs-page-3); specifically, SRX. vs. FX50 vs. Cayenne. The FX50 was the lightest and had the biggest/heaviest rotors yet did the worst in the test by far - halfway through the test cycle they had to stop as the pedal went to the floor. The Cayenne, despite being ~850 lbs heavier and with smaller brakes, had only slight fade over the 25 stop test.
Heat pretty much goes everywhere - not just into the rotors, or the air, or the calipers, or pistons, or w/e.
Well, the moral of the story here is that Nissan sucks@brakes, nothing else.
Quote from: S204STi on August 12, 2013, 04:32:31 PM
Well, the moral of the story here is that Nissan sucks@brakes, nothing else.
The moral is that there's a lot more to it than just bigger rotors.
Quote from: GoCougs on August 12, 2013, 04:14:26 PM
Take a look at a brake test performed by C&D (http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-power-to-stop-luxury-suvs-page-3); specifically, SRX. vs. FX50 vs. Cayenne. The FX50 was the lightest and had the biggest/heaviest rotors yet did the worst in the test by far - halfway through the test cycle they had to stop as the pedal went to the floor. The Cayenne, despite being ~850 lbs heavier and with smaller brakes, had only slight fade over the 25 stop test.
Heat pretty much goes everywhere - not just into the rotors, or the air, or the calipers, or pistons, or w/e.
The pads and rotors are the main heat sink. The bigger the rotors/pads the less heat going to places its not supposed to :huh:
Not sure what the FX has to do with anything either... unless it was equipped with the same aftermarket kit :huh:
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 12, 2013, 03:18:21 PM
Having the infrastructure to do track days regularly is part of why I left NYC
Well, then get out there and track your car!
Apparently my next automotive purchase was a window switch for an R107 Benz. $22 brand new on ebay!
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1598987/ (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1598987/)
This guy. As of this weekend, my original one went missing.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 12, 2013, 04:58:22 PM
The pads and rotors are the main heat sink. The bigger the rotors/pads the less heat going to places its not supposed to :huh:
Not sure what the FX has to do with anything either... unless it was equipped with the same aftermarket kit :huh:
The FX has the biggest/heaviest rotors and is the lightest vehicle yet the brakes overheated WAY before the others.
Pad composition has a big factor to play as well. Nissan is notorious for using shitty compounds to satisfy idiots who believe brake dust/noise is a sign of failure.
I agree with Cougs. Rotor size doesn't mean much if the brakes aren't getting the proper cooling and are using inferior pads.
Get Hawk pads and skip the rotors and brake lines until you actually experience fade...if you ever do.
Quote from: SVT666 on August 12, 2013, 07:45:46 PM
I agree with Cougs. Rotor size doesn't mean much if the brakes aren't getting the proper cooling and are using inferior pads.
Get Hawk pads and skip the rotors and brake lines until you actually experience fade...if you ever do.
Stainless lines improved the brake feel on my Si measurably, whether the brakes were hot or cold.
Quote from: TBR on August 04, 2013, 09:35:27 AM
I see three options for my next major car purchase:
1) Head gasket repair and t-belt replacement for the Outback. Not exciting, but will need to happen as soon as the oil starts looking milky. Can afford to do it now, but trying to string it along.
2) Something cheap and off the wall. Maybe a V70R? Wouldn't make a whole lot of sense, but I kinda just want something different but I don't feel like I drive enough for a car payment to make sense.
3) Infiniti G37s. Chat thread regulars will note I drove a G25 yesterday and was pretty impressed with everything but the get-up and go. Undecided if I would do an AT or MT. A MT is very manageable in Dallas traffic, but high probability I'd be moving elsewhere during the lifespan of the car. Somewhere like Seattle, Atlanta, or Denver, known for having bad traffic. And, if I am honest, I don't think I get much extra out of a MT, especially compared to modern ATs that shift fairly quickly (the only time I have regularly driven an AT was a '98 durango, which was insufferable, but transmissions have come a long way since then). Could afford one now and could very easily afford one next year when I get a big raise, but, as noted above, just don't know that a car payment makes sense in my circumstances. I drove way more than I expected last year, which added up to 8k miles.
#1. Took it on a road trip this weekend, and it was smoking something fierce from under the hood whenever I stopped. Did the same when I went to the airport yesterday morning. Oil on the exhaust I figure. Time to get out the checkbook. :facepalm: :( . I've got another 20k before the t-belt needs to be done so I am not sure if I am going to have that done as well or not.
But I have known this was coming since last summer so oh well.
I dropped 4-hundy on a fucking O2 sensor today. Jesus wept.
Quote from: Tave on August 13, 2013, 05:34:16 PM
I dropped 4-hundy on a fucking O2 sensor today. Jesus wept.
On the Aveo? That car is worth about $400....
Quote from: 2o6 on August 13, 2013, 05:58:13 PM
On the Aveo? That car is worth about $400....
Yeah evidently it's an expensive part on my model. It failed last week in Nashville. I took it to a dealer and they priced me out at $380 + $150 labor but couldn't get the part until the day after I left. Then I took it to a dealer here and they quoted me $550 for the part alone and said it would take at least a week to order (after I made an appointment, explained what I needed, and confirmed they had it in stock). I told them to fuck off and went to a friend's friend's tire store and service center. They quoted me $390 in parts and $50 in labor. Sold.