I finally picked up my El Camino yesterday. Like I said in the chat thread, I bought it on ebay for $3300. I planned to drive it home, but the engine has a rod knock problem and probably shouldn't be driven 50 miles on the highway (I confirmed the sellers worry about that, I took a little test drive before putting it on the trailer and I wouldn't trust it on the highway very long)
Anyways, here it is.
1969 Chevrolet El Camino
305 engine (not stock) with a rod knocking
Saginaw 4 speed
10 bolt open rear end
15' inch wheels
New tires
Black interior with bench seat
Needs new floors
Could use a new bed (it's banged up)
The rear bumper is in so-so shape. I got a new one from the seller for $100 and will put it on eventually.
Door locks need to be fixed
Parking brake needs to be fixed
Needs a new tie rod up front
And various other things. I have about a page long list of things to do.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino001.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino004.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino012.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino003.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino006.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino007.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino008.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino011.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino010.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino009.jpg)
Driving it home.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino.jpg)
Nice! :clap:
:rockon:
are you gonna fix that 305, or just drop your camaro motor in?
That Saturn...are you too embarrassed to mention it?
Quote from: the Teuton on October 04, 2008, 01:09:49 PM
That Saturn...are you too embarrassed to mention it?
It's my brother's car.
Quote from: NACar on October 04, 2008, 01:00:25 PM
:rockon:
are you gonna fix that 305, or just drop your camaro motor in?
Swapping the 350 in. I'll probably rebuild the 305 anyways, but I don't know what I'll do with it after that. Might sell it or just keep it in the garage.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 01:16:19 PM
It's my brother's car.
I'd rock it. It better be 5-speed, though. Saturn automatics are anemic.
Gorgeous!!!!! :ohyeah:
I love El Caminos, especially that age. Congratulations. Oh, and I also love the wheels..
Please keep us posted about what you do to that car! :rockon:
T-56?
Quote from: the Teuton on October 04, 2008, 01:37:49 PM
I'd rock it. It better be 5-speed, though. Saturn automatics are anemic.
Automatic. :cry:
Quote from: Pommes-T on October 04, 2008, 01:41:46 PM
Gorgeous!!!!! :ohyeah:
I love El Caminos, especially that age. Congratulations. Oh, and I also love the wheels..
Please keep us posted about what you do to that car! :rockon:
I'm in love with the wheels too. :ohyeah:
Quote from: NACar on October 04, 2008, 01:43:38 PM
T-56?
I'm not going to get a new tranny until I get a big block or something in it.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 01:47:50 PM
Automatic. :cry:
At least it's the DOHC model.
My bro has the SOHC stick, and it actually feels fairly peppy.
Excellent project! Love those. And not too terribly bad condition, either.
Got to know the car a bit better today, kinda messed around with things (found bondo spots, looked at the floor more, looked at the underbody, messed with the engine to try to solve the knock, etc.) Got the parking brake fixed too. :praise:
Are you going to paint it?
Badass, I love it! Should be a fun project, too. Have you ever post pics of the Camaro (I don't recall seeing any, but I very well might have missed that thread)?
Quote from: NACar on October 04, 2008, 03:59:11 PM
Are you going to paint it?
Eventually, after I get most of it finished. Right now it's black primer, which is what I would've done if it needed body work.
Quote from: The Pirate on October 04, 2008, 04:35:21 PM
Badass, I love it! Should be a fun project, too. Have you ever post pics of the Camaro (I don't recall seeing any, but I very well might have missed that thread)?
I've posted some of the Camaro. I can send you a PM or something if you want.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 05:16:56 PM
Eventually, after I get most of it finished. Right now it's black primer, which is what I would've done if it needed body work.
Fire engine red! :wub:
Quote from: NACar on October 04, 2008, 05:30:20 PM
Fire engine red! :wub:
I was thinking metallic orange or a nice, bright blue. Preferably with carbon fiber rally stripes (and that would be REAL carbon fiber)
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 08:26:47 PM
I was thinking metallic orange or a nice, bright blue. Preferably with carbon fiber rally stripes (and that would be REAL carbon fiber)
Metallic orange! How in in the heck do you make stripes out of carbon fiber? Wouldn't they stick up?
Quote from: NACar on October 04, 2008, 08:28:02 PM
Metallic orange! How in in the heck do you make stripes out of carbon fiber? Wouldn't they stick up?
I would have to find someone to make me a carbon fiber hood and tailgate skin, then paint them leaving just the stripes exposed.
Congrats! Should be a fun project. That's one of the nice El Camino body styles.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 08:41:04 PM
I would have to find someone to make me a carbon fiber hood and tailgate skin, then paint them leaving just the stripes exposed.
That would be very cool. I got to take a good look at the new Challenger with "CF" racing stripes, and it looked very cool. It would be even better with the real thing.
Quote from: R-inge on October 04, 2008, 08:47:22 PM
That would be very cool. I got to take a good look at the new Challenger with "CF" racing stripes, and it looked very cool. It would be even better with the real thing.
Yeah. I love those stripes. I saw a 'Cuda with carbon fiber bodywork (not sure if it was real or not) and was absolutely in love with it.
My first plan was for bare metal stripes, but I think those are going to become more and more common in the next 5-10 years. I want something fairly tame, but at the same time I want it to be unique and absolutely sweet.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 08:26:47 PM
I was thinking metallic orange or a nice, bright blue. Preferably with carbon fiber rally stripes (and that would be REAL carbon fiber)
This blue is nice:
(http://chevellfan.com/images/peters1967chevelle.jpg)
Chevelle of that same year, SS 396 four-speed (!), was parked across from my high school the whole time I went there. Idiots that owned it put 1980s Firebird seats in it.
This car has the potential as a project to be greater than awesome. I've always liked the El Caminos that looked like a Chevelle with the back chopped off.
Nice! My boy has a '69 Chevelle 396 in bright red that looks real nice. Yours would look good in black with th CF stripes 'tho. Does it have the in bed trunk or was that just an option on the 1970?
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 05, 2008, 12:06:41 PM
Nice! My boy has a '69 Chevelle 396 in bright red that looks real nice. Yours would look good in black with th CF stripes 'tho. Does it have the in bed trunk or was that just an option on the 1970?
You know I did more research on the in bed trunk and it's not a factory option. It's a custom job. Though I think some dealerships did make them in house, which is why some people have thought it's from the factory. So mine doesn't have one but I plan on putting it in. I can keep my sound equipment (amps and other various electrical equipment) in it.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 04, 2008, 01:17:12 PM
Swapping the 350 in. I'll probably rebuild the 305 anyways, but I don't know what I'll do with it after that. Might sell it or just keep it in the garage.
I wouldn't bother with the Chevy 305. It is the worst small block Detroit V8 ever built owing to its tiny bore (can't use 350 heads). Any $$ spent on it will be wasted in that it will always be gutless and no one will buy it in the aftermarket for more than ~$200.
As a replacement engine, I'd personally opt for an economy-minded big-inch small block (~400 cubic inches) which you could have built at a local shop for ~ $2,000, and then opt for an Edelbrock Performer package, including roller cam and rockers, AL heads and intake, and carb for ~ $3,000. Should be good for a very steetable 1 hp/cubic inch.
Quote from: GoCougs on October 05, 2008, 01:23:23 PM
I wouldn't bother with the Chevy 305. It is the worst small block Detroit V8 ever built owing to its tiny bore (can't use 350 heads). Any $$ spent on it will be wasted in that it will always be gutless and no one will buy it in the aftermarket for more than ~$200.
As a replacement engine, I'd personally opt for an economy-minded big-inch small block (~400 cubic inches) which you could have built at a local shop for ~ $2,000, and then opt for an Edelbrock Performer package, including roller cam and rockers, AL heads and intake, and carb for ~ $3,000. Should be good for a very steetable 1 hp/cubic inch.
The 305 isn't a factory engine, I believe it's a crate motor. It sure is strong enough to be one. Plus I wouldn't be rebuilding it just to make a buck, it would be for fun.
Anyways, today I took off the door panels so I could look at the locks and found that I have two different doors. I'm pretty sure the drivers side is a '68 door while the passenger door is a '69. So that's two things to add to the list - new locks and a new drivers door.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino0132.jpg)
Today I figured out that one of the high beam headlights is out. The list grows...
Good excuse for a HID conversion? :rockon:
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 10, 2008, 08:27:41 PM
Good excuse for a HID conversion? :rockon:
Do folks make those for that body style?
Quote from: R-inge on October 10, 2008, 08:34:06 PM
Do folks make those for that body style?
You have to buy the whole headlight assembly. They sell them ( round and rectagular) on Ebay. Then you have to buy the HID kit. A friend of mine has a set on his 1980 Cutlass. His takes a 9006 bulb in each headlight.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 10, 2008, 08:37:22 PM
You have to buy the whole headlight assembly. They sell them ( round and rectagular) on Ebay. Then you have to buy the HID kit. A friend of mine has a set on his 1980 Cutlass. His takes a 9006 bulb in each headlight.
9006 isn't HID...
Are you talking about projectors with halogen bulbs?
Quote from: R-inge on October 10, 2008, 08:43:48 PM
9006 isn't HID...
You have to buy your HID kit according to the number of the bulb that was origanally in the car. For example I have a 12k (blueish purple),9006 kit in the Z28! The kits go from 3k (yellow) to 30k (violet) but the HID bulbs are still numbered like regular halogen (9006.9005,H4,etc.)bulbs!
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 10, 2008, 08:47:03 PM
You have to buy your HID kit according to the number of the bulb that was origanally in the car. For example I have a 12k (blueish purple),9006 kit in the Z28! The kits go from 3k (yellow) to 30k (violet) but the HID bulbs are still numbered like regular halogen (9006.9005,H4,etc.)bulbs!
Oh ok, thanks. I'm not too familiar with the retrofit business, but that makes sense.
I might do that. I still need to check the wiring to make sure it's actually out and not just a wiring issue. If the bulb is actually out, I'll check the prices for HID conversions.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 11, 2008, 05:51:21 PM
I might do that. I still need to check the wiring to make sure it's actually out and not just a wiring issue. If the bulb is actually out, I'll check the prices for HID conversions.
The guy I get mine from cost about $72.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on October 12, 2008, 12:03:11 AM
The guy I get mine from cost about $72.
Lawl wut. I have Hella eurocode headlights in place of the crappy sealed-beams, but a brighter light would be cool, and would probably work fine with the low cutoff these things already have. Can I just get the bulbs and the ballast or does it need a different housing to handle the heat?
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 12, 2008, 01:07:26 PM
Lawl wut. I have Hella eurocode headlights in place of the crappy sealed-beams, but a brighter light would be cool, and would probably work fine with the low cutoff these things already have. Can I just get the bulbs and the ballast or does it need a different housing to handle the heat?
If your eurocodes have halogen bulbs in the rear than you'll only need the HID kit (bulbs and ballast) for your car. If it (I'm assuming your talking about the Miata) still has sealed beams than you have to get the new housing. Now the kits I have only have (both are 9006 so my high beams are still regular bulbs) low beam. The dual beam setups (bi-xenon) cost a bit more. So you won't have a high beam unless you order a bi-xenon kit. With the output of these kits you will very rarely need high beams anyway.
Here's where I get my kits. The price is down to $69.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390001066603&ru=http://motors.search.ebay.com:80/390001066603_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
Hmm, I could get yellow ones. Those could be cool. Of course I could just lower the voltage and get the same effect.
Ugh, ebay kits ftl. Aweful glare for other drivers.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 12, 2008, 07:36:48 PM
Hmm, I could get yellow ones. Those could be cool. Of course I could just lower the voltage and get the same effect.
:nono: 10 or 12k!
Well I fixed the light. Just needed to snap everything into place.
I figured out where the engine came from. It's a 305 from a '79 Camaro. Makes 130 hp. I'm pretty sure it's making more than 200 hp now.
I also figured out where the engine out of my Camaro came from. Ironically, I think it's from an El Camino (but from 1971). I took most of it apart yesterday and it's in great shape. Not much wear and tear except for 2 cylinders. I plan on taking it to a local shop to get it cleaned up and painted. I'm also going to get a new cam. My dad knows a couple higher-ups at Edelbrock so he can get me one for cheap.
Got a catalog from OPG a few days ago. Went through it all and figured out what I'm going to need. So far it's up to $5000... :confused:
:lol:
Here's most of the list:
- floorboards
- seats
- seat belts
- door sills
- passenger door (they are mismatched right now - the passenger door is from a 1970 model and is different)
- door panels
- might get new dash components
- glove box
- tach
- horn
- center console
- shifter bezel & boot
- pedals pads
- bed mat
- tonneau cover
- weatherstripping
- various molding pieces
- passenger side mirror
- new interior door handle / windows cranks
- new tailgate skin
- tie rod
- new power steering box (lower ratio and lower boost level)
- disc brakes
- heater
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 03, 2008, 10:20:19 PM
Got a catalog from OPG a few days ago. Went through it all and figured out what I'm going to need. So far it's up to $5000... :confused:
:lol:
Here's most of the list:
- floorboards
- seats
- seat belts
- door sills
- passenger door (they are mismatched right now - the passenger door is from a 1970 model and is different)
- door panels
- might get new dash components
- glove box
- tach
- horn
- center console
- shifter bezel & boot
- pedals pads
- bed mat
- tonneau cover
- weatherstripping
- various molding pieces
- passenger side mirror
- new interior door handle / windows cranks
- new tailgate skin
- tie rod
- new power steering box (lower ratio and lower boost level)
- disc brakes
- heater
All of that adds up to $5000? Muscle cars are expensive as shit.
That's what it adds up to if I get brand new parts from the catalog. Chances are I won't do that for everything. I could make it a lot cheaper if I wanted, but I like to do things right and get them done nicely.
By the way, if that finished up the car (with the exception of paint), the total for the car would be under 9k. Not bad.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 05, 2008, 05:45:41 PM
That's what it adds up to if I get brand new parts from the catalog. Chances are I won't do that for everything. I could make it a lot cheaper if I wanted, but I like to do things right and get them done nicely.
By the way, if that finished up the car (with the exception of paint), the total for the car would be under 9k. Not bad.
Certainly not bad at all, considering these cars actually tend to gain value with the amount of money you dump into them.
Quote from: R-inge on November 05, 2008, 05:56:25 PM
Certainly not bad at all, considering these cars actually tend to gain value with the amount of money you dump into them.
Early El Camino's are going up in value. :rockon:
Ordered some engine parts from Edelbrock. The biggest being a new cam :rockon:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCaminoparts1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCaminoparts2.jpg)
It matches the intake on the 350 I have sitting out in the garage. I've decided to clean it up and put it in. Not sure what I'll do with the 305 yet.
Also got some valve springs.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCaminoparts3.jpg)
And finally a box full of Edelbrock goodies. My dad knows Steve Whipple (VP of sales) at Edelbrock so I got him the stuff through him. Guess he decided to throw in some extras. :lol: Just a couple hats and shirts. Think there was a catalog or something too.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCaminoparts4.jpg)
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 19, 2008, 07:18:57 PM
And finally a box full of Edelbrock goodies. My dad knows Steve Whipple (VP of sales) at Edelbrock so I got him the stuff through him. Guess he decided to throw in some extras. :lol: Just a couple hats and shirts. Think there was a catalog or something too.
Yeah, they do that.
beans!!!!
What kind of heads do you have on that 350?
Quote from: Soup DeVille on November 19, 2008, 07:21:36 PM
Yeah, they do that.
It's more than usual though. Unless they upped the usual amount of stuff since I last mail ordered parts from them. :huh:
Quote from: NACar on November 19, 2008, 07:26:42 PM
What kind of heads do you have on that 350?
Not sure. Whatever came on the engine when I bought my Camaro. I really don't know much about the engine, just that the block came out of a '71 El Camino (ironic, huh?). I know what the intake and carb are because I put those on. Other than that it seems mostly stock, except the headers. It's in great condition except for 2 cylinder walls that have some wear marks. When I take it to a machine shop I'll see what they can do about those.
Thinking about these seats.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-Mazda-6-Front-rear-Seats-black-leather_W0QQitemZ180306785884QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item180306785884&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
What do you guys think? They're a bit expensive but I'm gonna see if I can get the price knocked down if I pick them up and only buy the fronts.
Got the third package from Edelbrock this afternoon, this one with a new timing chain in it.
Sweet!
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 20, 2008, 12:57:58 PM
Got the third package from Edelbrock this afternoon, this one with a new timing chain in it.
you shoulda got timing gears so it would make a cool geary whiney sound :lol:
Quote from: NACar on November 20, 2008, 02:51:37 PM
you shoulda got timing gears so it would make a cool geary whiney sound :lol:
You can order them from Jeg's with extra whine.
Quote from: NACar on November 20, 2008, 02:51:37 PM
you shoulda got timing gears so it would make a cool geary whiney sound :lol:
Or just supercharge the thing and have an even better whine. :ohyeah:
Bought new seats off ebay today. They're from a Mazda 3. Cloth, black w/ red insert. I'll post pics when I pick them up.
Better than the seats that came from your Mazda 6???
Quote from: Laconian on November 22, 2008, 08:58:16 PM
Better than the seats that came from your Mazda 6???
They're in about the same condition I think. I actually thought about just using my Mazda 6 seats but they're gray. :lol:
Drove up to Columbus to pick up the seats today. Just barely squeezed them in the trunk and back seat of my Mazda.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino018resized-1.jpg)
They are in great condition for being $75 on ebay. I'll get them in the car eventually, after I order new floor pans and put them in.
I also stopped by the Jegs store to get some various engine pieces and saw a nice steering wheel too.
(http://www.grantproducts.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/35.jpg)
It was about $80, might have to get one. Originally I was thinking about getting a wheel from Flaming River, but the one I like is $400. And they look about the same.
This is the one from Flaming River:
(http://www.flamingriver.com/cartimages/cat_sm_82.jpg)
If anything the cheap one looks better.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 29, 2008, 07:44:08 PM
Drove up to Columbus to pick up the seats today. Just barely squeezed them in the trunk and back seat of my Mazda.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/ElCamino018resized-1.jpg)
They are in great condition for being $75 on ebay. I'll get them in the car eventually, after I order new floor pans and put them in.
I also stopped by the Jegs store to get some various engine pieces and saw a nice steering wheel too.
(http://www.grantproducts.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/35.jpg)
It was about $80, might have to get one. Originally I was thinking about getting a wheel from Flaming River, but the one I like is $400. And they look about the same.
This is the one from Flaming River:
(http://www.flamingriver.com/cartimages/cat_sm_82.jpg)
I have a Grant wheel in the Z. You have to make sure that it's large enough that you can still see the gauges.
Also, the wheel feels a bit cheap and flimsy. It's still better than the POS stock one, but my wheel is a Momo Monte Carlo knock off and it has knock-off quality.
:hesaid:
I would pay more for a quality wheel. You use the wheel more than anything else, as such it better be damn comfy! :lol:
Got more goodies today! This time from NPD.
- floorboards (and floor support)
- locks
- door sills
I also got a glovebox. (I knew I was forgetting something)
I found a leak under the windshield too. I'm glad I found it before I put the new floorboards and carpet in.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 29, 2008, 09:48:52 PM
I have a Grant wheel in the Z. You have to make sure that it's large enough that you can still see the gauges.
It has a tilt steering column so I should be able to see the gauges. But I'm not sure what wheel I'm getting yet.
Picked up a transmission input shaft bearing today. I figured I should get that before I finish the engine, to make sure it will fit in the engine. I don't want to pay to machine the engine and find out it can't be used with a manual transmission, since it's from an automatic car.
Looks like it will fit though.
Are you going with a 5 or 6 speed?
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on February 14, 2009, 10:53:46 PM
Are you going with a 5 or 6 speed?
Just the Saginaw 4 speed that's in the car right now. Later on I might upgrade to a Tremec 6 speed or something.
Battery is dead...
Quote from: NACar on October 04, 2008, 03:59:11 PM
Are you going to paint it?
Herculiner! It'll be an El Herculmino :praise:
Quote from: L. ed foote on March 11, 2009, 03:04:01 PM
Herculiner! It'll be an El Herculmino :praise:
Excellent idea.
:lol:
Quote from: NACar on March 11, 2009, 04:21:46 PM
At least put it in the bed.
I'm not sure what I want to do with the bed. Right now it's all banged up. I was thinking about putting in some nice wood and covering it. I guess I'll have to decide how much hauling I'll do with it.
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 11, 2009, 04:34:27 PM
I'm not sure what I want to do with the bed. Right now it's all banged up. I was thinking about putting in some nice wood and covering it. I guess I'll have to decide how much hauling I'll do with it.
You only have one option for the bed.
Herculmino.
Cool project my sister has a 71'
What's wrong with the auto. I mean the turbo 350 trannys are legends almost. I didn't catch which auto you have?
Quote from: Sigma Projects on March 14, 2009, 02:22:01 AM
Cool project my sister has a 71'
What's wrong with the auto. I mean the turbo 350 trannys are legends almost. I didn't catch which auto you have?
I don't have an extra auto to put in. The one from the 350 in my garage is now in my Camaro (I didn't bother getting a new transmission when I built the engine in my Camaro)
Like I said in the chat thread, I took the engine to the machine shop today. They're going to take it apart and check it out over the next few days and then call me to see what we're going to do with it.
Also talked to Shannon (a local painter and car guy) and he's going to come check out the floorboards tomorrow hopefully. Eventually I might have him paint the car too.
oh man i wish i had half of that amount of room in my fucking engine bay...
I called the machine shop today. They've checked out the block and it's all good. They want to bore it to clean up the cylinder walls, but that's about it. He said they will check out the heads this week and call me after that.
Once the weather gets better I'm going to put in the new locks. I also need to change the locking mechanism on the passenger door. It's from a '70 car so the interior lock is in a different location.
I fixed the windshield leak and got the car to start. And I found out why the driver's door won't stay open - it's missing the hinge with the grooves. Plus I need to replace 3 of the dash lights.
That's all good, but have you ordered the supercharger?
Quote from: NACar on April 04, 2009, 04:01:00 PM
That's all good, but have you ordered the supercharger 30" wheels and Donk conversion?
:evildude:
New door locks are in!
Bad news though - passenger side doesn't like to lock. I can push down the lock and it won't engage the lock. Only if I keep my hand firmly on it will it stay locked. Otherwise it pops up when I open the door. I'll have to take it apart next weekend and see what's up.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 04, 2009, 10:58:37 AM
I called the machine shop today. They've checked out the block and it's all good. They want to bore it to clean up the cylinder walls, but that's about it. He said they will check out the heads this week and call me after that.
Once the weather gets better I'm going to put in the new locks. I also need to change the locking mechanism on the passenger door. It's from a '70 car so the interior lock is in a different location.
Get a 383 crank, and do something with the heads.
Also, don't even think about doing a TH350 automatic - good as they are, your 4-speed is much cooler.
Quote from: NACar on April 11, 2009, 05:28:50 PM
Get a 383 crank, and do something with the heads.
Also, don't even think about doing a TH350 automatic - good as they are, your 4-speed is much cooler.
4 speed is definitely staying.
The engine in the car is now ready to be pulled on Monday. Spent a couple hours taking off almost all the parts I could - should be a quick pull.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/enginereadytobepulled.jpg)
That motor is fugly, You should get a nice set of long tube ceramic coated headers like I put on my ol' redneck truck. They were only like $200 for the set.
Quote from: NACar on May 02, 2009, 05:55:52 PM
That motor is fugly, You should get a nice set of long tube ceramic coated headers like I put on my ol' redneck truck. They were only like $200 for the set.
it's fugly but it still makes 2x the power of teh swift. :evildude:
The new one will be prettier. And hopefully I'll be able to clean up the wiring and stuff too. It annoys me when stuff like that isn't neat.
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 03, 2009, 04:09:21 PM
it's fugly but it still makes 2x the power of teh swift. :evildude:
The new one will be prettier. And hopefully I'll be able to clean up the wiring and stuff too. It annoys me when stuff like that isn't neat.
It only makes 150 hp? That's pretty sad, seeing how it's got four times the displacement of the Swift :evildude:
Quote from: NACar on May 03, 2009, 04:13:26 PM
It only makes 150 hp? That's pretty sad, seeing how it's got four times the displacement of the Swift :evildude:
It made ~130 from the factory I think. It's from one of the worst years in car history - 1979. Right now I think it's making 180 maybe.
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 03, 2009, 04:29:47 PM
It made ~130 from the factory I think. It's from one of the worst years in car history - 1979. Right now I think it's making 180 maybe.
What is that, like 1:1 compression on those things? :lol:
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 02, 2009, 11:21:48 AM
The engine in the car is now ready to be pulled on Monday. Spent a couple hours taking off almost all the parts I could - should be a quick pull.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/enginereadytobepulled.jpg)
Those old cars are so easy to work on, eh?
Quote from: R-inge on May 03, 2009, 05:04:12 PM
Those old cars are so easy to work on, eh?
:ohyeah:
The hardest part is bending over for a couple hours. :lol:
I've had the new engine in it for awhile now. It was a pretty easy job - just took the hood off and put it in. I've put most of the accessories on, just need to hook up the power steering, battery, and starter. Also need to clean up the headers and put them on. Then it should be able to run!
Here's some pics. Looks much better than the other engine. :ohyeah:
I don't have the air cleaner on it right now, but here's what it looks like with it.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/elcamino019.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/elcamino020.jpg)
Without it.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/elcamino021.jpg)
I'm going to use these valve covers. Just have to strip all the paint and polish them up.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/elcamino022.jpg)
Decided on a color yet?
I' think those trucks look good in dark green.
Cool - what are the specs on the engine?
Quote from: Byteme on July 09, 2009, 12:04:11 PM
Decided on a color yet?
I' think those trucks look good in dark green.
I was checking out paint colors at PPG and I think I'm going to go with a dark metallic red.
Quote from: GoCougs on July 09, 2009, 12:21:34 PM
Cool - what are the specs on the engine?
Right now it's at 260 hp and 350 ft lbs of torque, but that can change anytime. :evildude:
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 09, 2009, 01:42:52 PM
I was checking out paint colors at PPG and I think I'm going to go with a dark metallic red.
I don't think I've ever seen one tht color. Might look ptetty good.
I'm going to need a new outer tie rod. I tried to change the boots, as the driver's side didn't have one and the passenger side one was old. There may have been a reason the driver side didn't have one though - it was almost impossible to get off.
The engine is almost ready to start up. Just have to add all the coolant, prime the oil, and maybe fill the fuel lines to make the start up quick.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 09, 2009, 01:42:52 PM
Right now it's at 260 hp and 350 ft lbs of torque, but that can change anytime. :evildude:
A mild cam would do wonders.
Nice! :ohyeah:
Quote from: GoCougs on August 13, 2009, 12:28:27 PM
A mild cam would do wonders.
I'm still thinking about what I want to do with it. I can go a couple different ways - small block tuned a bit to make 400hp/400tq, big block with a mild tune making maybe 450/450, or an LSx engine.
I think I'm going to turn it into a Pro Touring car, so I'm leaning towards a small block because of weight issues. That leaves the engine I have now or an LSx. I usually prefer the carb'd engines as they sound more natural and I can mess around with them more, so I may keep this engine and tune it up eventually (cam, intake, carb, heads, more performance oriented headers, etc).
Quote from: Catman on August 13, 2009, 05:50:54 PM
Nice! :ohyeah:
Thanks!
Ideers
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0402_gm_350_engine_project_humble_pie_tech/index.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0403_350ci_small_block_chevy_engine/index.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0404_gmpp_350_small_block_engine/index.html
Very cool, man! There's definitely some old Detroit iron in my future, soon as finances and space allow. Gotta love all the room in that engine bay. :praise:
Engine has been started!
Not including the smoking header/sparks, roasted spark plug wire, and a possible blown power steering pump, it went well! :lol:
:cheers:
:rockon: :partyon:
I put in the new tie rod and boots and also put on some better battery cables today.
AND.....
Took it out for the first time to get some gas. Nothing broke, so it was successful! :lol:
Gotta say though, it's kind of a scary car to drive. I need to mess with the clutch to make sure it's engaging and disengaging properly and switch to disk brakes. The suspension will also have to be tightened down. Thing is literally a boat right now. It will probably be better when I get my bucket seats in though. The bench seat is basically a 40 year old couch and the lack of seat belts doesn't help.
Sweet. Wanna race?
My old Chevy truck was pretty scary to drive, too. New shocks really helped, but I never did fix the loose steering, or the brakes :mask:
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 22, 2009, 04:08:56 PM
You will lose. :lol:
Rodeo has a three point two liter all aluminum dual overhead cam twenty four valve vee six with variable tuned intake runners. The Camino has a boat anchor. :devil:
Quote from: NACar on August 22, 2009, 04:14:53 PM
Rodeo has a three point two liter all aluminum dual overhead cam twenty four valve vee six with variable tuned intake runners. The Camino has a boat anchor. :devil:
:nono:
El Camino has all American vee eight power.
I bet ur intake valve seals was made in CHZiNA
Quote from: NACar on August 23, 2009, 07:42:47 AM
I bet ur intake valve seals was made in CHZiNA
:nono:
Democratic People's Republic of Korea. :praise:
Oh.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 23, 2009, 11:48:03 AM
:nono:
Democratic People's Republic of Korea. :praise:
North Korea makes things?
Quote from: Secret Chimp on August 26, 2009, 06:50:08 PM
North Korea makes things?
(http://media.lintvnews.com/photo/2009/05/29/North-Korea-Nuclear_Gree_20090529094034_320_240.JPG)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/sparkplugwire.jpg)
I have found the source of the smoke/sparks that occurred when I first started the engine.
I switched out all of the plug wires and installed some looms to tidy them up. I'm still not completely happy with it, but it will do. Sadly, the car is not going to run again until I can find a shorter spark plug. I don't want to burn another wire on the headers.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 30, 2009, 05:58:11 PM
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/sparkplugwire.jpg)
I have found the source of the smoke/sparks that occurred when I first started the engine.
I switched out all of the plug wires and installed some looms to tidy them up. I'm still not completely happy with it, but it will do. Sadly, the car is not going to run again until I can find a shorter spark plug. I don't want to burn another wire on the headers.
They make heat-reflective sleeves for that. I put them on my redneck truck after I put the headers on. Also put a heat shield around the starter. Had no problems.
OR, Accel makes "header plugs" if you just want to go shorter
Quote from: NACar on August 30, 2009, 06:53:16 PM
They make heat-reflective sleeves for that. I put them on my redneck truck after I put the headers on. Also put a heat shield around the starter. Had no problems.
OR, Accel makes "header plugs" if you just want to go shorter
The #6 spark plug comes out right between two of the header pipes, so the plug wire touches it. Nothing I can do except get a shorter spark plug.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 31, 2009, 06:34:55 PM
The #6 spark plug comes out right between two of the header pipes, so the plug wire touches it. Nothing I can do except get a shorter spark plug.
I had that problem with my LeMans, so I got the Accel header plugs. They are extra short, but more 'spensive, which suxxored because that car needed new spark plugs about every 2-3 tanks of fuel.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on August 31, 2009, 06:40:44 PM
I had that problem with my LeMans, so I got the Accel header plugs. They are extra short, but more 'spensive, which suxxored because that car needed new spark plugs about every 2-3 tanks of fuel.
I put some of those in back in the fall. :ohyeah:
Just got the car back yesterday. Wasn't expecting to bring it home quite yet, but I can do the rest myself. My friend cut out the out floor (what was left of it) and welded in a new one. I brought over the new seats and put the driver's side in temporarily (gotta do some tweaking before I bolt it in permanently)
I should be getting a new steering wheel later on today. In the next couple of weeks I'll put down some insulation and carpet, bolt down the seats, and possibly start making a center console.
I'll post pictures when I get back from Cleveland on Monday.
Before:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino005-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino010-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino008-1.jpg)
Bye bye rusty floor!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino015.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino016-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino019-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino023.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino027.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino030.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino037.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino041.jpg)
Much better. :praise:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/Elcamino043.jpg)
Pictures of seats coming soon.
HOly crap. You could see El Camino through the rust holes in The Road!
Quote from: Laconian on May 31, 2010, 12:54:33 PM
HOly crap. You could see El Camino through the rust holes in The Road!
:clap:
These are the new seats (they are black cloth, the sun makes 'em look gray in the pictures):
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/seats004-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/seats002-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/seats001-1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/seats005-1.jpg)
Soon to having racin' belts.
You should've just left the floor out, waterproofed the rest of the interior and bolted the seats to the crossmembers. :lol: :mask:
I need those seats for the Swift. :heated:
Nice. What are the seats out of?
Quote from: thecarnut on May 31, 2010, 01:26:00 PM
You should've just left the floor out, waterproofed the rest of the interior and bolted the seats to the crossmembers. :lol: :mask:
I may be able to weatherproof the interior, but not me. :lol:
Quote from: BimmerM3 on May 31, 2010, 02:08:09 PM
Nice. What are the seats out of?
Mazda 3.
Steering wheel:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/steeringwheel.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2282/1599040079_cb5054f342.jpg)
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 03, 2010, 01:55:48 PM
Steering wheel:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/steeringwheel.jpg)
What systems is it compatible with? Does it have force feedback?
Quote from: Laconian on June 03, 2010, 02:02:35 PM
What systems is it compatible with? Does it have force feedback?
Old muscle cars never have much feedback. :ohyeah:
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 03, 2010, 07:29:44 PM
Old muscle cars never have much feedback. :ohyeah:
Feedback is stomp on the gas and feed back.
What are those seats out of? A Sentra SE-R SpecV?
Quote from: the Teuton on June 03, 2010, 09:34:21 PM
What are those seats out of? A Sentra SE-R SpecV?
Mazda 3. :ohyeah:
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 31, 2010, 01:16:00 PM
:clap:
These are the new seats (they are black cloth, the sun makes 'em look gray in the pictures):
Soon to having racin' belts.
Where's the hole for the harness?
I haven't done any prep for the harness yet. For the shoulder belts I plan on mounting them to a roll bar type of thing under the back window and then the other 3 will be mounted to the floor.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 04, 2010, 11:21:28 AM
I haven't done any prep for the harness yet. For the shoulder belts I plan on mounting them to a roll bar type of thing under the back window and then the other 3 will be mounted to the floor.
I mean in the seats. The harness bar shouldn't be too hard since your interior is all stripped out already anyway.
I was seriously considering putting one of these in my car
http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/forza/
The contour guys did a group buy on them, and they were $200 each.
Quote from: SVT_Power on June 04, 2010, 12:15:48 PM
I mean in the seats. The harness bar shouldn't be too hard since your interior is all stripped out already anyway.
Shouldn't need a hole in the seat, they should fit on the side of the headrest. If not, I can raise the headrest.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 04, 2010, 01:19:17 PM
Shouldn't need a hole in the seat, they should fit on the side of the headrest. If not, I can raise the headrest.
not as kewl mang :lol:
Driver's seat is finally bolted in. The passenger seat has the front two bolts in, but I ran out of washers for the back two. Should get some more later today.
I sat in the driver's seat for awhile and it's super comfortable. I also got it low enough to get rid of any headroom issues. :rockon:
Quote from: SVT_Power on June 04, 2010, 12:17:17 PM
I was seriously considering putting one of these in my car
http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/forza/
The contour guys did a group buy on them, and they were $200 each.
I thought about racing buckets, but I didn't wanna go all out. I'm not sure how comfortable they would be on long road trips and of course they are 4 times more expensive (picked up the pair of Mazda3 seats for $90)
I got one of these. It's made to fit under the headrest.
(http://www.autotech.com/images/products/schroth_rally3.jpg)
I think I have figured out what color I'm going to paint it. GM's crystal metallic red is just about perfect. I saw a Corvette with that color paint on it yesterday and it looked great.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 07, 2010, 09:30:15 AM
I think I have figured out what color I'm going to paint it. GM's crystal metallic red is just about perfect. I saw a Corvette with that color paint on it yesterday and it looked great.
That is a nice color. Are you gonna do racing stripes? And what color is the interior gonna be. It would really nice in tan with that shade of red.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on July 07, 2010, 02:31:57 PM
That is a nice color. Are you gonna do racing stripes? And what color is the interior gonna be. It would really nice in tan with that shade of red.
I'm probably going to do a little two-tone paint job with the majority of the car being red and the very bottom (6 inches or so) being black. Probably do some sort of pinstripe design down in the black area too (either behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel)
Tan would be nice, but it's hard to do tan when you are customizing it. Plus it's already black, so I'm gonna stick with that. The seats are black and red, though.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 07, 2010, 04:50:45 PM
I'm probably going to do a little two-tone paint job with the majority of the car being red and the very bottom (6 inches or so) being black. Probably do some sort of pinstripe design down in the black area too (either behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel)
Tan would be nice, but it's hard to do tan when you are customizing it. Plus it's already black, so I'm gonna stick with that. The seats are black and red, though.
:ohyeah:
Bought a disk brake conversion kit today, including a two inch drop.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 08, 2010, 07:41:55 PM
Bought a disk brake conversion kit today, including a two inch drop.
OMG you coulda gota LS7 instead.
For $720? Where?!
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 08, 2010, 07:41:55 PM
Bought a disk brake conversion kit today, including a two inch drop.
Got the driver's side drum brake assembly off today, should finish the install tomorrow. Gotta figure out what I'm doing with the springs too. They might be big block springs so they'll probably have to go.
Put the disk brakes on last Saturday and then yesterday I finished off the brake lines and put in the brake booster and master cylinder. They should be ready to go now (though apparently the rear passenger side is leaking). Also put in the new steering box.
It's looking a lot better, especially with the drop spindles. If I get some 1-2 inch lowering springs it will look perfect.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes003.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes001.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes004.jpg)
What a tidy work space...
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes005.jpg)
Old:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes006.jpg)
New:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes012.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes013.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/brakes014.jpg)
Got enough lawn mowers?
I've been meaning to build a go-cart with them sometime.
Ha, nice.
El Camino is looking pretty good (for a mullet car ;) )!
The rear passenger side brake cylinder exploded for some reason, so that had to be replaced along with the brake shoes since they were covered in brake fluid. Seems like I've only done brake work on it for the longest time.
I think the next step will be cleaning the floor to put insulation and then carpet in. That will be the start of the interior work. I have a new headliner, glove box, and new door hinge to put in. I'm planning on doing a custom center console and door panels. Center console will have gauges, a sub woofer in the very back behind the seats, a CB radio and some storage. The door panels will be a cloth similar to the seats and maybe some red stitching. Possibly some speakers if they fit.
A CB? 10-4 Good buddy!
They come in handy on road trips. Like a radar detector but you don't have to hide it. :ohyeah:
Shiny!
When you're done can you teach me how to do cool stuff to cars? :lol:
I'm probably not the best teacher. I mess things up all the time. Luckily on that brake job it came with very good instructions. :lol: The kit I bought was excellent. (I'll shill for them a bit. Got the kit from the guys at getdiskbrakes.com aka Right Stuff Detailing)
Mullet cars need CBs. True fact.
Quote from: Rupert on August 11, 2010, 02:23:25 PM
Mullet cars need CBs. True fact.
I'm thinking dual 8 foot antennas on the front fenders.
:lol:
Ha!
All my "mullet car"-ing is in jest, but if you did that, you would, by law, have to have a mullet, a trucker cap, and a wifebeater. :lol:
Haven't started the car in weeks. Tried two (?) weeks ago and it wasn't getting any gas. Could get it going for a second if I put some gas directly into the carb, but the fuel pump wasn't doing it's job. Replaced that today, but the battery could only turn it over a few times before it quit. Tried to charge it, but that didn't seem to do anything. Hopefully that's the fault of the charger, not the car.
Get the battery tested.
We used a volt meter to test it and it was fine (I'm assuming that's basically what Autozone does?)
I can't remember exactly how it works, but you can also test a battery for its ability to hold a charge. The more it's fully discharged, the easier it loses the charge.
Well I figure I'll mess with it some this weekend. Might just try jumping it if the battery charger doesn't work again. I don't really want to get a new battery at this point, since it's still sitting a lot and I don't want to wear out the new one too. Once it's finished I'll probably be driving it every day though, so a new one would make more sense.
Ended up getting a new battery a couple of weeks ago. Put the new steering wheel on today, looks pretty sharp.
Probably going to lower the front down another inch or so and then get an alignment. Should be ready to go for the most part, just gotta get the seatbelts in. Everything else is just finishing it off, not necessarily parts needed for it to drive.
Nice!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3093.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3094.jpg)
Of course I have to take it off again because I forgot to change the ignition switch (got new locks a long time and held off on doing the ignition until I did this)
Now are you gonna cut the dash for your stereo or go with an under dash/glovebox set up?
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on November 01, 2010, 06:53:41 PM
Now are you gonna cut the dash for your stereo or go with an under dash/glovebox set up?
Probably gonna keep it in the same place, since the stereo in it is junk (like you can see). If it had a nice old school stereo in it I might think about keeping it and relocating the new unit, but since I haven't kept any other part of the car stock I don't see the need to buy a new retro unit and one for the glovebox too.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 01, 2010, 06:57:07 PM
Probably gonna keep it in the same place, since the stereo in it is junk (like you can see). If it had a nice old school stereo in it I might think about keeping it and relocating the new unit, but since I haven't kept any other part of the car stock I don't see the need to buy a new retro unit and one for the glovebox too.
That makes sense. I really wanna get my hands on a project like this. Rite now I'm planning on doing some things to my F-150. Maybe a flat black with black wheels. Since my daughter will be 16 next year I'm giving her my Corolla and the Ford wil see more action. As of now it's just rusting away. I've been trying to get my moms friend to let go of his 70 Chevelle vert but he won't budge!
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on November 01, 2010, 07:03:08 PM
That makes sense. I really wanna get my hands on a project like this. Rite now I'm planning on doing some things to my F-150. Maybe a flat black with black wheels. Since my daughter will be 16 next year I'm giving her my Corolla and the Ford wil see more action. As of now it's just rusting away. I've been trying to get my moms friend to let go of his 70 Chevelle vert but he won't budge!
(http://image.truckinweb.com/f/dropped_f1_fiddy/10042012+w450+h338+cr0+re1+ar1/1995-ford-f-150-4.jpg)
(http://www.remarkablecars.com/ppads/data/1091/1995-ford-0011.jpg)
Somethin' like that?
It'd look sweet painted flat black with some fat rubber in the back. If you don't plan on using the bed much you could get some tubs (or mini-tubs) too. Though I don't know if I've ever seen super wide black rims besides on Top Fuel cars.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 01, 2010, 07:09:35 PM
(http://image.truckinweb.com/f/dropped_f1_fiddy/10042012+w450+h338+cr0+re1+ar1/1995-ford-f-150-4.jpg)
Just like that :rockon:. The bed will get use hauling my bike (when I don't use my work van) or the quad I'm planning on picking up. But not any serious hauling. I really wish it was a 4x4 but I can deal with 4x2 for the lil bit of driving that will do with it.
I don't think the El Camino will do any hauling either. I plan on getting a cover and maybe even a wood bed. I saw a display in Bowling Green that had removable wood beds that sit on top of the metal. Would be great for car shows and stuff and they said it's pretty durable so I would probably just keep it in.
Cover: http://www.craftecinc.com/index.php
Wood: http://bedwoodandparts.com/
The wood is at least a grand, though. :mask:
I love wood beds! That would be really nice in your ride. The wood would look nice with the bright red paint!
So I went to work on a custom center console and have now decided to start all over. I was making a cardboard mock-up and was going to integrate the console into the dash. There were a few minor issues, but the heater outlet would have been blocked. That's no good. The car already doesn't have A/C, don't wanna lose the heater too. So now I'm back in the drawing stages. I think I'll just keep the console flat and not bother joining it with the dash. I'll still have an arm rest and place for a sub woofer, though. From the shifter back it won't change.
I also scrubbed some rust off the bottom of the doors that started to develop. Looks much better. :praise:
My dad finally started to put his tubular control arms on his Camaro, plus new springs and a beefier sway bar. While doing this he had a great idea - since he got a new sway bar, we could just put the old one on the El Camino. I think it's only 1-1/8, but it's better than what it on there now (nothing). Should work until I upgrade the rest of the suspension (which is on the bottom of the list)
Nice.
Seat belts are in! Well, the lap belts at least. The shoulder harnesses won't be installed for a while, since I'll have to weld in a roll bar of sorts to mount them. I'll probably do that when I start putting together the console and sound system, since I'll have to plan out how it'll all fit.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/seatbelts001.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/seatbelts002.jpg)
The original plan was to use homemade brackets, but those weren't going to allow any movement of the belt where it was bolted into the bracket. So plan B was the eyebolts and snap hooks. They worked great, especially since we found pre-fabbed threads in the middle of the crossmember. Only problem is that the bolts are a bit long and get a bit close to the driveshaft, so I'll probably have to order some shorter ones.
Fedex just delivered some tubular control arms. Those will go on soon, when I lower the front end and put the sway bar on.
No more wheel gap!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered001.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered002.jpg)
Put the driver's side lower control arm on today. Meant to do a lot more, but the stupid bolt connecting the old one to the frame was rusted to the metal sleeve and wouldn't come out, so we had to cut it out and bang on it with a hammer for about 2 hours. And it kept raining on and off so we kept stopping. But finally got the old one off, cut one coil off the spring, and put the new tubular control arm on and put the spring back in. Hopefully the upper arm will come off/go on easier.
Looking at that picture, it seems like the camber is off. Not surprising, but I didn't notice it looking at it in person. Weird. Doesn't matter though, since the first thing on the list is to get an alignment after I get everything else on.
I'll race you in my Benz, a long distance race that is.
Am I allowed to add another couple of gas tanks in the bed? :lol:
Two 5 gallon jugs? Sure I'll even allow that.
Looking good.
Quote from: Mustangfan2003 on April 23, 2011, 09:29:19 PM
Two 5 gallon jugs? Sure I'll even allow that.
I was thinkin at least a 50 gallon tank.
Quote from: Rupert on April 23, 2011, 09:35:46 PM
Looking good.
Thanks!
This car needs to have fatty rear wheels compared to the fronts. Throw some Rallys on that bitch.
Looks good Alex! But lets get some paint on those calipers!!!!
Quote from: Secret Chimp on April 24, 2011, 12:57:21 AM
This car needs to have fatty rear wheels compared to the fronts. Throw some Rallys on that bitch.
Once this set of tires wear out, I'll probably get new wheels and keep these for winter tires. New wheels will be 17s or 18s, with some fat rubber in the back.
I like these a lot: http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/?wheelid=SB4273&siteid=1&groupid=74&page1=1
(http://asp.wheelpros.com/images/wp/wheels/clear/clearconsumerbig/cbSB4273.png)
Haven't decided if they would look right on an El Camino, though, since they are from a Shelby Cobra.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on April 24, 2011, 01:29:00 AM
Looks good Alex! But lets get some paint on those calipers!!!!
Yeah, should have painted the calipers and master cylinder when I got them. Oh well. It's on the to-do list, but since it's not necessary to make it drivable, probably won't happen for awhile.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 24, 2011, 11:51:00 AM
Once this set of tires wear out, I'll probably get new wheels and keep these for winter tires. New wheels will be 17s or 18s, with some fat rubber in the back.
I like these a lot: http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/?wheelid=SB4273&siteid=1&groupid=74&page1=1
(http://asp.wheelpros.com/images/wp/wheels/clear/clearconsumerbig/cbSB4273.png)
Haven't decided if they would look right on an El Camino, though, since they are from a Shelby Cobra.
Yeah, should have painted the calipers and master cylinder when I got them. Oh well. It's on the to-do list, but since it's not necessary to make it drivable, probably won't happen for awhile.
Nooo, don't put huge-diameter rims on an old car, it just looks wrong.
[img]http://images2.carsforsale.com/319174/3203ED0C-B5F1-4906-8FA9-45FB11ABD885_1.jpg[/quote]
Rally wheeeels
Quote from: Secret Chimp on April 24, 2011, 01:59:15 PM
Nooo, don't put huge-diameter rims on an old car, it just looks wrong.
[img]http://images2.carsforsale.com/319174/3203ED0C-B5F1-4906-8FA9-45FB11ABD885_1.jpg
Rally wheeeels
Those wheels are boring.
17s aren't huge.
And I got the two upper controls arms on today. The camber is wayyyyyyy off on the driver's side now, I probably shouldn't have taken out all of the shims. Not sure I want to even drive it to the alignment shop like that.
All done! At least, mostly. I think all that's left is finishing greasing the bearings (ran out, still have 3 left to do) and get an alignment.
Can't wait to see how differently it drives, especially with the sway bar.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered003.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered004.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered007.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered008.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered005.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered009.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered010.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lowered006.jpg)
Oh, and we have to finish putting in the new wiring harness before it's drivable. :lol:
Next step is start the interior. Gotta fix any and all leaks and then I can clean up the floorboards and put in new weather striping. Some insulation and carpet will finish it for the most part. Then I can start on the custom center console and sound system.
Cool! What did you do on the suspension?
New tubular control arms, cut the springs 1 coil, and put on the old sway bar from my dad's Camaro.
I'll see how the springs work. I'm not usually a fan of cutting them, but we didn't cut much so hopefully they'll still be good. And I'm pretty sure the shocks still match. If not, maybe I'll just steal the QA1's that just got put on the Camaro. :lol:
Just for fun: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y87rCNk9t-o
Problem: massive amounts of rubbing. Went to go get an alignment and didn't even get out of my neighborhood. Went back and put some alignment shims in, but it still rubs a bit.
I don't know why the car dropped so much when we put the new control arms and cut the springs. When we put 2 in. drop spindles on it barely did anything. Something must have been completely screwed up with the old control arms. I guess we'll just order new springs and see if that helps. If not, :banghead:.
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 14, 2011, 10:52:53 AM
Problem: massive amounts of rubbing.
When is that a problem? ;)
Put on one of the new door seals, but it's raining now and I have to leave, so I'll finish the rest later. Gonna order new rear springs, since the current ones are uneven. We'll see where that gets us. Probably still need new front springs, but I'll wait until the rears are installed to do that. I was hoping to drive it this week, but there goes that.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/P19225614.jpg)
Got the rear springs. They're a half inch lower and stiffer than stock. I'll put them on sometime and see what that does to the car and figure out where to go from there.
Get a coilover kit.
That would require new control arms, so no. I'm not gonna replace something I just replaced. :lol: Plus, I'll probably just put airbags on it eventually.
So I put on the new rear springs. Of course the main reason for that is because it seemed like the old springs were uneven. Turns out they were the same size, though. So we upgraded the springs for no reason (I wasn't planning on doing anything to the rear) The rear end is still crooked and I have no idea why. WTF. Anyone have any ideas?
Shackles bent on one side? Bent frame? Invisible fat man?
Does it gots a sway bar?
Quote from: Secret Chimp on May 25, 2011, 09:46:52 AM
Shackles bent on one side? Bent frame? Invisible fat man?
Yeah, those are my guesses. Not that I like any of them; this car is turning out to be even more difficult than I imagined (which was already pretty difficult)
And Nick, only in the front.
Coronet wins.
But El Camino is faster. :praise:
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 25, 2011, 03:11:00 PM
But El Camino is faster. :praise:
Would be faster :P
It's still plenty drivable. The tire rub is mostly gone, at least right now it just does it in a corner. Before it was scrubbing the top of the fender well just going straight. :lol:
I'm gonna put up pictures of the lean in a minute. There is no invisible fat man (that was indeed a possibility, as there could have been something in the smuggler's box behind the seat) and I checked out the rear suspension pieces to see if any were bent, but none seemed to be. I'm really hoping new front springs will fix it, I don't want to have to take it to a frame shop.
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 25, 2011, 04:10:25 PM
It's still plenty drivable. The tire rub is mostly gone, at least right now it just does it in a corner. Before it was scrubbing the top of the fender well just going straight. :lol:
I'm gonna put up pictures of the lean in a minute. There is no invisible fat man (that was indeed a possibility, as there could have been something in the smuggler's box behind the seat) and I checked out the rear suspension pieces to see if any were bent, but none seemed to be. I'm really hoping new front springs will fix it, I don't want to have to take it to a frame shop.
Sit the front end up with jackstands and see if it sits evenly in the back. If it does, front sprangs, if it doesn't, lolframe.
Nothing changes with it jacked up, front or rear.
Front driver's side:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean001frontdr.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean002frontdr.jpg)
Front passenger side:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean007frontpa.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean008frontpa.jpg)
Rear drivers side:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean003reardr.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean004reardr.jpg)
Rear passenger side:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean005rearpa.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean005rearpa.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/lean010.jpg)
Measure from the frame to the ground, not the body. You could be messing around with a straight frame & suspension and messed up body mounts.
I did that too. Similar results.
Car is back from the shop. It's nice and straight now, two weeks and $700 later. But now there are two other problems. Apparently it won't start or even crank anymore, so there's some sort of electrical problem. And now the stupid thing leaks. Hopefully that can be fixed by readjusting the doors, but idk. (The problems are possibly related, since the car had an inch of water in it which could have affected some of the wires.)
WOW! The Road is getting more expensive by the day.
Dude that sucks. The frame guy screwed that up.
Quote from: gotta-qik-z28 on June 22, 2011, 05:43:30 PM
WOW! The Road is getting more expensive by the day.
We're just a little over budget... :lol:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 22, 2011, 05:45:07 PM
Dude that sucks. The frame guy screwed that up.
Eh, I'd rather readjust the doors than have a twisted frame. Not sure the starting problem was his fault, I don't think it ever started while at the shop. I'll have to look into it.
I guess the starter solenoid crapped out. Strange timing. It started when we drove the car to the shop, but a couple of hours later when they tried to move it, no luck.
Can't really tell from this picture, but the front end is now about an inch higher thanks to new springs and some spacers.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/newsprings1.jpg)
I took the old starter out, but haven't put the new one in yet. My dad wants to put a quick release thingamabob on the wires to make things easier, so I'm waiting on that. After that gets done I'll be able to drive it and see how amazing the springs are. :lol:
Next step: pull fuel tank, replace straps, and install a new sending unit to hopefully fix the gas gauge.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/newsprings3.jpg)
New spring is on the left. Had to use backwards logic and put in shorter springs in order to raise the car. :lol:
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 05, 2011, 01:35:21 PM
Can't really tell from this picture, but the front end is now about an inch higher thanks to new springs and some spacers.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/newsprings1.jpg)
I took the old starter out, but haven't put the new one in yet. My dad wants to put a quick release thingamabob on the wires to make things easier, so I'm waiting on that. After that gets done I'll be able to drive it and see how amazing the springs are. :lol:
Next step: pull fuel tank, replace straps, and install a new sending unit to hopefully fix the gas gauge.
If yonder gauge moveth not at all, check ye sender ground.
So we had the Chevrolet El Camino, the Ford Ranchero...and... this?
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/1983_Dodge_Rampage.jpg/800px-1983_Dodge_Rampage.jpg)
Was the Dodge Rampage a true competitor to these cars or just a poor FWD wannabe? :tounge:
Quote from: cawimmer430 on July 06, 2011, 03:02:57 PM
So we had the Chevrolet El Camino, the Ford Ranchero...and... this?
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/1983_Dodge_Rampage.jpg/800px-1983_Dodge_Rampage.jpg)
Was the Dodge Rampage a true competitor to these cars or just a poor FWD wannabe? :tounge:
Neither, it was its own niche.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on July 06, 2011, 02:23:14 PM
If yonder gauge moveth not at all, check ye sender ground.
This is what it looks like right now:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3547.jpg)
:lol:
Most likely a ground issue, so I'll check all the wiring when I pull the tank and replace the sending unit (I'm assuming it's not in very good shape. If it turns out to be okay I guess I can always return the new one)
I think your gasoline is overheating. Might want to check that out.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on July 06, 2011, 03:53:49 PM
I think your gasoline is overheating. Might want to check that out.
Dude, I know. It keeps asploding in my engine!
Quote from: Soup DeVille on July 06, 2011, 03:36:29 PM
Neither, it was its own niche.
Must have been pretty lonely there. :lol:
Quote from: cawimmer430 on July 06, 2011, 04:08:59 PM
Must have been pretty lonely there. :lol:
I think part of its purpose was for Chrysler to prove they could build everything off of 2 or 3 platforms.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 06, 2011, 03:52:36 PM
This is what it looks like right now:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3547.jpg)
It looks to me like the gauge has gone past it's limit on the full side. which would suggest that the gauge itself is bad. Take the sender out of the tank and check it's resistance through the full range of motion with an ohmmeter.
"(With key ON) Unplug the tan wire on the sender, gauge will go past Full. Ground the same wire to frame, gauge will go to Empty. If this happens gauge and wiring are good. Puts problem into sender or ground of tank.
Sender 0 ohms = Empty, 90 ohms = full."
Quote from: shp4man on July 06, 2011, 04:47:41 PM
It looks to me like the gauge has gone past it's limit on the full side. which would suggest that the gauge itself is bad. Take the sender out of the tank and check it's resistance through the full range of motion with an ohmmeter.
"(With key ON) Unplug the tan wire on the sender, gauge will go past Full. Ground the same wire to frame, gauge will go to Empty. If this happens gauge and wiring are good. Puts problem into sender or ground of tank.
Sender 0 ohms = Empty, 90 ohms = full."
Thanks, I'll try that and see what happens. :ohyeah:
Quote from: Rupert on July 06, 2011, 07:21:54 PM
Brat.
What in gods name made Subaru decide to call that thing 'Brat'? :lol:
Quote from: Soup DeVille on July 06, 2011, 03:36:29 PM
Neither, it was its own niche.
Don't forget this one......
(http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/BH/vw-rabbit-pickup-470-1008.jpg)
Quote from: Madman on July 12, 2011, 06:50:39 PM
Don't forget this one......
(http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/BH/vw-rabbit-pickup-470-1008.jpg)
Now that's a Caddy. :praise:
Are you listening, Cadillac? :lol:
Put the new starter on today and drove it around a bit to check out the new springs. They seem to work great, doesn't seem to be underdamped. Need to bolt the passenger seat all the way down, though; it was crashing against the floor a little bit (I only have the front two bolts in right now). Hopefully that's what was causing most of the noise.
You must be pretty close to finished (or as close as any car project ever is) by now, eh?
Quote from: Rupert on July 16, 2011, 08:56:18 PM
You must be pretty close to finished (or as close as any car project ever is) by now, eh?
Not even. It's close to being able to drive every day, but there's still tons of things I want to do to it. Need to get the gas gauge working, then put in the insulation and carpet. Then I'm probably going to start the custom interior work like a center console and door panels. Then there is some body work (smooth out all the dings, get rid of any rust, shave marker lights and emblems, relocate reverse lights from tailgate to rear bumper, install a flush-mounted third brake light at the top of the tailgate) and paint.
And the list gets longer every time I go to a car show. :lol:
Need to talk to my friend to see if he can bring his welder over for when I replace the gas tank straps. Until that happens, I'll just continue messing with other little things, like the front turn signals. The driver's side is a little crooked, so I went to fix it, but found out that the bracket isn't correct. It's the same as the passenger side, but it needs to be the exact opposite (mirror image) for the light to be mounted the same way. I looked in a couple of catalogs and it's $70 for one assembly ($140 for the pair) - way too much to just buy a new one. Of course the ones on the car are actually from a regular Chevelle, since the replacement '69 El Camino ones are a different style. :facepalm: Guess I'll look around for a used bracket; if not I might have to cough up the $140...
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 20, 2011, 01:15:57 PM
Need to talk to my friend to see if he can bring his welder over for when I replace the gas tank straps. Until that happens, I'll just continue messing with other little things, like the front turn signals. The driver's side is a little crooked, so I went to fix it, but found out that the bracket isn't correct. It's the same as the passenger side, but it needs to be the exact opposite (mirror image) for the light to be mounted the same way. I looked in a couple of catalogs and it's $70 for one assembly ($140 for the pair) - way too much to just buy a new one. Of course the ones on the car are actually from a regular Chevelle, since the replacement '69 El Camino ones are a different style. :facepalm: Guess I'll look around for a used bracket; if not I might have to cough up the $140...
Can't you just make something out of a tin can and speed nuts?
Quote from: Secret Chimp on July 21, 2011, 12:04:36 AM
Can't you just make something out of a tin can and speed nuts?
I could, but I'm trying to put the car back together the right way. A previous owner did crap like that and that's why the car is such a pain.
I'm gonna see if I can just drill different holes in the existing bracket, though.
Finally got an alignment! Had to replace the upper ball joints because they were super loose. But now the car handles a lot better, especially over bumps.
Took out the gas tank today. I think I now might be on the EPA's top-10 wanted list for crimes against the environment. :mask: That thing was dirty.
I'm going to try to get my friend to come over tomorrow to check it out. I don't have a welder, so he's gonna weld in the new brackets/straps and I'll probably have him patch up some of the stuff down there. There's one rusty spot in the frame and then the "frame" for the bed is pretty wasted in some spots too. Some new sheet metal and maybe some anti-rust paint should make it a little nicer.
Good news is that we hooked up the new sending unit to try it out and it all works. The gauge needle returned to the right position and went up and down correctly, so there's not a short in the wiring like suspected.
Got the gas tank cleaned up and ready for paint.
While I was doing that, my dad decided to take the dash apart. Apparently I'm not going to drive the car for a bit longer... We have a new dash to install and we're going to repaint the dash pad. Most of the interior bits used to be tan, but a previous owner painted them black and didn't do the best job, so we're redoing it. Also got new light bulbs for the instrument panel and going to get new speakers for under the dash. That should be nice since I can then install the radio instead of waiting until I build the center console and door panels and get the majority of the speakers. Two little four inch speakers aren't much, but it's better than nothing.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 17, 2011, 03:38:24 AM
Got the gas tank cleaned up and ready for paint.
While I was doing that, my dad decided to take the dash apart. Apparently I'm not going to drive the car for a bit longer... We have a new dash to install and we're going to repaint the dash pad. Most of the interior bits used to be tan, but a previous owner painted them black and didn't do the best job, so we're redoing it. Also got new light bulbs for the instrument panel and going to get new speakers for under the dash. That should be nice since I can then install the radio instead of waiting until I build the center console and door panels and get the majority of the speakers. Two little four inch speakers aren't much, but it's better than nothing.
What type of speakers?
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on October 17, 2011, 04:35:17 PM
What type of speakers?
Probably something like this (http://www.crutchfield.com/s_206KS35/Kicker-KS35.html?c=3&tp=1&nvpair=FFCategory%7c%5brank399%5dCar+Speakers&nvpair=FFSubcategory%7c%5brank51100%5d3-1%2f2%22+Speakers). Should work to listen to the radio until I get the other larger speakers set up (probably 2 6x9s, two 4-5 in. speakers in the door, two tweeters, and a sub). They can go with those speakers as well. I'm going to look at speaker set ups sometime to see what I want to do. I went to a Kicker seminar on car audio when I was at a car show this summer, which has swayed me towards them. I'll have to do some research, though.
Might snap some pictures of the cleaned up gas tank and ripped apart dash tomorrow.
BTW, although Crutchfield has a good selection and a good website, I find that most speakers, etc. on there can be found for way cheaper. I have at least $300 of speakers in the 944 that I paid, like, $120 for.
Yeah I usually just search on Crutchfield and buy somewhere else. Thanks though. :ohyeah:
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 18, 2011, 03:15:44 AM
Yeah I usually just search on Crutchfield and buy somewhere else. Thanks though. :ohyeah:
Same here.
Gas tank is all painted!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/P26170332.jpg)
Here's where I got the new bracket welded in. It's only temporary, it'll have to be redone eventually since a lot of the metal under there is rotten. But I just want to get the thing running for now - it'll be fine for quite a while.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/P26170408.jpg)
Work on y0 welds, son.
Quote from: thecarnut on October 26, 2011, 10:21:59 PM
Work on y0 welds, son.
It's really hard to weld rusty metal.
I wasn't the one that welded it, my friend did. He's a great welder, but had a fun time with that since like Ringe said, it's pretty hard to weld it to rust. There was also a pretty sizable gap between the new & old metal, so he had to connect the pieces a little bit.
Quote from: R-inge on October 26, 2011, 11:22:13 PM
It's really hard to weld rusty metal.
Wire wheels and high speed drills, nigga
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 27, 2011, 11:22:24 AM
Wire wheels and high speed drills, nigga
That only works if there is good metal underneath.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/gastank.jpg)
Much better looking than before! (I'm guessing there's just a reflection causing it to look a little dirty...)
Now I'm in the process of tearing apart the dash. Need to clean the little plastic cover in front of the gauges, but the panel is held on plastic clips/nubs and I'm not quite sure how I'm going to put the thing back on after I take it off. I asked on the El Camino forum, hopefully someone will have done it before and can share their knowledge. Otherwise, I guess I'll just have to wing it and try to screw it back in or something.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/P01155850-1.jpg)
A couple of guys have done it before and suggested either epoxy or silicone adhesive, so I'll probably do that. Should be easier than drilling a hole and screwing it in.
Epoxy that shit.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/newheight.jpg)
:wub: Definitely want those wheels after these tires wear out. Current wheels can be for winter tires.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 20, 2011, 08:07:13 PM
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/newheight.jpg)
:wub: Definitely want those wheels after these tires wear out. Current wheels can be for winter tires.
Them are cool.
You need to restore your instrument cluster. Shit is nasty looking.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on November 20, 2011, 08:13:34 PM
Them are cool.
You need to restore your instrument cluster. Shit is nasty looking.
That's why I was taking the cluster apart. I'll get some pictures of it after I finish putting it all back together. Should look 10x better.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 20, 2011, 08:15:21 PM
That's why I was taking the cluster apart. I'll get some pictures of it after I finish putting it all back together. Should look 10x better.
I was hoping for 11x better, but that's cool.
Slowly putting the dash back together. The glove box wasn't willing to hold any paint - had to keep sanding it and repainting it. Whatever paint was on it before was just absolute crap. But it should be good now. Painted the heater control box, since before it just had a black cardboard background, which was falling apart. Not sure why they didn't just paint it in the factory.
Dash pad is back on as well. Once the paint dries on the heater controls, I can put that back together and put the new dash in. Should be mostly done after that; only thing left is installing the radio and new dash speakers.
The new door seals I put in a couple of months ago have not been working at all (i.e. huge puddles on the floor inside), which was very confusing. The door seemed to be aligned perfectly, but the seals weren't touching the door frame at all in multiple places. Thought it was the fault of the door seals for a while, but finally just decided that the door must not be aligned well enough. The driver's door is now aligned so that it seals fairly well; the passenger door is a bit better but still needs a bit more aligning. They're not perfectly aligned with the front fenders anymore, but that can be tinkered with at a later date.
Hot Rod Magazine had an article about painting a car by yourself using Rustoleum professional high-performance paint. I emailed them about it and just got a reply. The guy said it's not the most durable thing and can be hard to clean, so I guess that option is off the table. I'll just stick with the original plan.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 26, 2011, 03:37:27 PM
The new door seals I put in a couple of months ago have not been working at all (i.e. huge puddles on the floor inside), which was very confusing.
The puddles can be the result of a leak at the base of the windshield!
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on December 02, 2011, 06:23:45 AM
The puddles can be the result of a leak at the base of the windshield!
Nah, fixed those up a year or two ago. :ohyeah: Right now it's just the doors and the front panel of the bed. The doors were super bad, you could see daylight between the seal and doorjamb when the door was closed.
Quote from: hotrodalex on December 02, 2011, 03:43:06 PM
Nah, fixed those up a year or two ago. :ohyeah: Right now it's just the doors and the front panel of the bed. The doors were super bad, you could see daylight between the seal and doorjamb when the door was closed.
Yeah thats bad!!
WOW! I just looked back and you've been wrenching on this car for 3 years!! I know you can't wait to get it finished!
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on December 02, 2011, 07:40:56 PM
WOW! I just looked back and you've been wrenching on this car for 3 years!! I know you can't wait to get it finished!
Yeah, it's been a while... Hopefully in the next month or two. There should be no reason I can't drive it after the dash gets put back in.
Thats cool! Are you still gonna paint it red and black?
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on December 03, 2011, 08:05:25 AM
Thats cool! Are you still gonna paint it red and black?
Most likely. A flat white with some sort of red pin striping on the doors and tailgate could be kinda cool, though it'd be the third white car in our driveway.
Quote from: hotrodalex on December 03, 2011, 11:04:36 AM
Most likely. A flat white with some sort of red pin striping on the doors and tailgate could be kinda cool, though it'd be the third white car in our driveway.
No CF rally stripes? :rockon:
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on December 03, 2011, 11:05:40 AM
No CF rally stripes? :rockon:
I figured I would do something different since everyone has rally stripes.
Thats true!!!
I say go with british racing green, white pin stripes, and white Herculiner in the bed.
Herculiner stripes and chrome bed
Mind = blown
Herculiner will add too much weight and then I won't be able to beat douches in their Civics.
I'll probably line the bed with it, though. I don't think I'm going to fix all the dents and dings, just spray some bedliner to prevent rust and then put a tonneau cover on it.
Front fender will have to come off in order to adjust the passenger door. It needs to come forward about half an inch and it's already touching the fender (peeled off a little part of the door skin last weekend :mask: hopefully it's fixable)
Quote from: hotrodalex on December 14, 2011, 02:35:24 PM
Front fender will have to come off in order to adjust the passenger door. It needs to come forward about half an inch and it's already touching the fender (peeled off a little part of the door skin last weekend :mask: hopefully it's fixable)
I'm not sure when I'll be able to get this done. It'll probably be a two man job, but my dad is installing a new tile and wood floors today, which probably won't get finished until next weekend. Until then I might work on mocking up a center console and sub woofer enclosure.
Got a 10" subwoofer and two 6 1/2" speakers for the kickpanels. Already have a pair of old 6x9s and an amp, both of which should work for a while until I feel like spending more money and upgrading them. Figure I'll stick with this stuff and just get it all set up - shouldn't be too hard to change out components later.
The subwoofer box will be a little challenging due to the limited space. I made a cardboard model using the recommended specs, which was close to fitting but not the best. I'm going to tweak it and make another model that'll hopefully work better.
I might be able to mess with the door alignment tomorrow. It should be sunny and fairly warm (mid-40s) so it might be my best chance for a while.
I'm contemplating making a trunk lid in the bed as well. There's already a panel that I need to take off and reseal, so I've been thinking about putting a hinge on it to make a trunk. Only problem is that pesky water; I'll have to find a way to ensure 100% sealage.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/smugglerbox.jpg)
Should I tint the windows? Not super dark, probably just 35% at the most.
Very lite smoke...
My main concern is if it will look right on the car, since it's only a two door, and I'll have to make sure it's applied correctly so I won't have any problems with it peeling.
Positives to tint would be decreased interior temperature on hot days (very nice on hot days, especially w/o A/C), a little privacy (not a ton since it'll be light, but a little), and maybe a little protection for my sound system. You'll still be able to see into the car, but at night it might be harder to see without really peering into the windows.
What kind of privacy do you need in a two door cab?
Quote from: Secret Chimp on January 08, 2012, 08:21:38 PM
What kind of privacy do you need in a two door cab?
For when I'm picking my nose at a stop light. :huh:
Apparently there was a small tack weld on the bottom of the fender that was holding it back when we were trying to move it out of the way of the door. Fixed that and tried to adjust the door, but it's just not fitting correctly. There's still a rather large gap between the door seal and the A-pillar, but the door doesn't seem like it can move forward any farther. Like always, nothing can ever be an easy fix.
Tomorrow I might put the new dash in and see if I can figure something out with the door. I'm going to have to, because my dad doesn't seem willing to sell it unless it's absolutely impossible to fix.
This car sux.
Guess what - the new stereo is slightly too tall to fit in the new dash. :facepalm:
I guess I could always get a stock radio to put in the dash just for show, and then have the actual stereo on top of the subwoofer box. Or I could buy a fancy stock looking modern headunit and sell the one I have right now.
I'm just a few steps away from setting this car on fire and making an insurance claim.
Got it to fit after chopping up some bits.
Quote from: hotrodalex on February 04, 2012, 01:05:06 PM
I'm just a few steps away from setting this car on fire and making an insurance claim.
:lol: You'll be :lockedup:
Took off the door handles today. The driver's side has never sat right, it's always been angled up. I had assumed it was the fault of the door handle, but it appears to be caused by door skin, which is a little banged up underneath. Hopefully it can be straightened out and the new door handles will sit correctly.
You should just leave the body on this thing as-is and throw all your money at rubber burnin'. Rat rod.
I agree. It's an old American barge; it was probably misaligned and wiggly from the factory.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on February 07, 2012, 12:43:35 AM
You should just leave the body on this thing as-is and throw all your money at rubber burnin'. Rat rod.
I've contemplated it.
Should I strip all the primer and just clear coat the metal? I'd have to do some bodywork to patch up the bondo spots, but I think it would still be cool. That or a diesel oil rub. Like Rusty Slammington.
(http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/images/12/2012/01/c1e9489d5c4f7e9349d89e95533316be.jpg)
No.
Rusty Slammington was cool because it's something you'd never see done to a BMW. If you did that to your car, it'd just look ghetto.
WTF does diesel oil rub do aside from make your car extra smelly and flammable?
Quote from: thecarnut on February 07, 2012, 03:35:16 PM
No.
Rusty Slammington was cool because it's something you'd never see done to a BMW. If you did that to your car, it'd just look ghetto.
Already looks ghetto as is. :huh:
:lol:
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/#how
After going back in the the thread and looking at pics of the car I would also say to forget the body for now and get the thing running and driving. What engine and trans are you running?
Quote from: hotrodalex on February 07, 2012, 05:14:06 PM
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/#how
I use Amsoil HD Metal Protector. It leaves a wax-like protective coating, but also seems to soak into the metal. W/E mang.
Quote from: shp4man on February 07, 2012, 05:18:32 PM
After going back in the the thread and looking at pics of the car I would also say to forget the body for now and get the thing running and driving. What engine and trans are you running?
New 350 crate engine and a Saginaw 4 speed. It should all work now, haven't started it in months because I pulled the gas tank and now I'm finishing up the dash board. After I'm done messing with the wiring under the dash I'll reconnect the battery and it should be in good driving shape.
I really like that Gibbs stuff. I wonder what bird droppings would do to it. Guess I could always just carry a can of it around and spray more after I wash off the crap.
Soaks into the metal? I would be dubious about that claim. Metal containers can hold anything liquid that doesn't eat through it (corrosives, acids) without anything "soaking" through.
Quote from: Rupert on February 07, 2012, 05:58:16 PM
Soaks into the metal? I would be dubious about that claim. Metal containers can hold anything liquid that doesn't eat through it (corrosives, acids) without anything "soaking" through.
Probably just layman's terms.
I think it was meant pretty literally at that link. Context suggests they don't actually know what it does.
What about a clear powder coat?
Quote from: Rupert on February 07, 2012, 07:17:21 PM
I think it was meant pretty literally at that link. Context suggests they don't actually know what it does.
If the metal is porous at all, liquids can "soak" in, even if it's just barely into the surface. It may be more of a varnishing effect, but still.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on February 16, 2012, 05:48:29 PM
If the metal is porous at all, liquids can "soak" in, even if it's just barely into the surface. It may be more of a varnishing effect, but still.
Liquids can get into all the microscopic dips and imperfections, yes, but a metal surface doesn't absorb.
Might go hook up some dash lights and then either take out a kick panel to figure out how to mount the speakers, or put some insulation in the driver's door. Nice weather today, so I feel like being productive.
I was much less productive than I wanted to be, but that's not really surprising. Got a few dash lights in, but I wasn't the one who took them out so I'm not exactly sure which ones go where. I'll figure that out on Thursday or Friday.
I haven't been able to figure out how to remove the kick panels. Supposedly the grate/grill cover comes off and you have to remove screws from somewhere, but it won't come off and I see no screws. With my luck the thing was glued together by a previous owner, like the fender was welded to the frame...
Took some pictures of the new dash and cleaned up gauges. Still need to touch up and even repaint the passenger side of the dash board, but it's getting closer. Also cut out a mock up of a center console. The cardboard piece would be a sheet of brushed aluminum in the finished console.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3793.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3794.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3799.jpg)
Hooked up the battery to test the dash lights. Seems most of the important lights are working - turn signals, high beam indicator, etc., as well as the wiper and heater controls. There are at least two regular lights that are still hanging down, but I got the floor a little wet and don't feel like laying in water to figure it out.
Gas tank is pretty much empty, so I'll have to get a gallon or two before trying to start the engine. Should probably prime the oil, too, since it's been sitting for quite a few months.
My painter/mechanic friend moved in September, but he gave me another guy's number in case I needed any paint/body work done. Called him up today to see if he could come and take a look at the door and fender alignment. He said he can probably stop by tomorrow morning. Hopefully he can help.
I thought you gave up and had this up for sale (which is a bad move, IMHSO)
Nope. Thought about it, but didn't do it (yet).
The body guy didn't come over Saturday - must've been busy. Maybe next weekend.
Might get these to make the speaker installation easier and more professional looking. A little expensive, but I'd rather do it right and spend a little more than have a crappy looking install.
http://www.opgi.com/p/interior-trim/28387/24/CH28447.html
(http://www.opgi.com/common/CH28447-lrg.jpg)
I might have to move the parking brake to accommodate the speakers. If I do, I'll probably find a handle from a newer car and move it to the center console.
Those'lll look nice.
And yeah, hand brake.
Just need to go to the junk yard and find a good one. A guy on the El Camino forum is doing the same thing in the next few weeks, so I can let him figure what not to do. :lol:
The car runs, but not for very long. Fuel pressure sucks. Replaced the filter, so that all works, and I can suck it out of the gas tank. Best guess is there is a blockage somewhere in the ~13 feet of fuel line. Gonna run to autozone and get a long rubber hose, I guess. If it runs with that, then I'll order a new metal fuel line.
Hooked up a canister of gas to the end of the line and it seemed to run great. Fuel filter was full and there was no problem. Thinking the problem is in the sending unit or the connection between it and the line.
wtf, it just randomly started to work.
This car is wack. Oh well, I won't complain.
Blockage in line made it to the filter? Wasn't any gas in the lines?
The lines were empty until last week, since I had the gas tank out for a month or two. Put a few gallons in last week (filled it up to just under quarter of a tank) and then put in some more today, which got it up to just under half a tank. Today I basically took apart the whole fuel system except for dropping the gas tank. Hopefully it's all good now. Technically it's driveable now, but if I want to drive at night then I need to get the dash lights working... :lol: After that it's all just cosmetics and creature comforts (carpet, radio, center console, door panels, overhead console, etc)
:rockon:
needs vidyas
Been driving it around the past couple of days, getting the hang of this manual transmission nonsense. Pretty much got it now. The thing is a blast to drive. Nothing like blasting down the road in an old V8 muscle car. It handles better than I expected, too. Probably thanks to the tubular control arms, better alignment, new springs, sway bar, and newer steering rack. :lol:
Sounds fun!!!
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 05, 2012, 06:12:41 PM
Been driving it around the past couple of days, getting the hang of this manual transmission nonsense. Pretty much got it now. The thing is a blast to drive. Nothing like blasting down the road in an old V8 muscle car. It handles better than I expected, too. Probably thanks to the tubular control arms, better alignment, new springs, sway bar, and newer steering rack. :lol:
So, you are keeping this now that you've actually driven it and realize it's not a total piece of shit?
:clap:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 05, 2012, 06:17:48 PM
So, you are keeping this now that you've actually driven it and realize it's not a total piece of shit?
It's only half a piece of shit. :lol:
I really like the car, obviously that's why I got it. It can just be a pain sometimes. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be. I've fixed or replaced some things multiple times. I have most of the parts to make it a pretty nice car, just have to get it all put together. (that's what would make it hard to sell - most of the money I've spent on the car isn't even on the car yet). It'll have to go to a body shop to make it all straight and pretty before it gets painted. Speaking of which, I need to call the bodyman again so he can align my door properly. He didn't show up last time.
Probably going to get these gauges to put in the overhead console I'll be installing.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Electrical-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Sunpro_16990028-P_N3342C_P%7CGRP2032_____
(http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3342C/large/16990028_acn_cp7957_pri_larg.jpg)
(http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3342D/large/16990027_acn_cp7956_pri_larg.jpg)
Also looking at a way to limit the revs. At first I was just going to use a tach with a rev limiter, but I might just get an MSD module or box.
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/83647/10002/-1?parentProductId=757483
(http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/100/121/121-83647.jpg)
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8728/
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/msd-8728_m.jpg)
I'll have to think about it.
Need to get a new fuse for the instrument panel lights, too. It's an itty bitty one, so there isn't a replacement in the garage already.
Or you can just shift before it blows up.
You should make an El Caregal Grand National.
(http://image.gmhightechperformance.com/f/9027600/0604htp_1984_el_camino_08_z.jpg)
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 07, 2012, 03:10:53 PM
Or you can just shift before it blows up.
Valve float works good as a rev limiter.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on April 09, 2012, 06:12:20 PM
Valve float works good as a rev limiter.
That's probably a more expensive remedy, though.
I actually don't think I'll bother with the rev limiter, at least not right now. Maybe I'll get a whole electronic ignition box and all that fancy stuff in a little while, but until then I don't think I'll have too much trouble keeping the revs under control...
Oh yeah, got a new fuse for the interior lights. All works now. Parking brake light is on all the time, I'll have to mess with the switch. Also need to hook up the light for the heater controls, it's just dangling in the dashboard right now and lighting up part of the footwell.
Also got new windshield wipers. Was going to hook up the tach that is sitting the garage, but it's too big to put on the steering column. I'll stop by Advance Auto Parts sometime to check out the Sunpro tach they have that might work. Just have to make sure it won't look cheap and/or tacky. Then I'll be able to know what RPM I've been shifting at. Right now it's basically whenever the engine gets pretty loud... :lol:
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 09, 2012, 07:45:36 PM
Oh yeah, got a new fuse for the interior lights. All works now. Parking brake light is on all the time, I'll have to mess with the switch. Also need to hook up the light for the heater controls, it's just dangling in the dashboard right now and lighting up part of the footwell.
Also got new windshield wipers. Was going to hook up the tach that is sitting the garage, but it's too big to put on the steering column. I'll stop by Advance Auto Parts sometime to check out the Sunpro tach they have that might work. Just have to make sure it won't look cheap and/or tacky. Then I'll be able to know what RPM I've been shifting at. Right now it's basically whenever the engine gets pretty loud... :lol:
Mine is stylin
http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-2891-Z-Series-Tachometer/dp/B00062YWLA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1334793210&sr=8-5
I should put a tach in the Exploder.
Quote from: Rupert on April 18, 2012, 08:52:03 PM
I should put a tach in the Exploder.
Why? It only redlines at 4,500 RPM, and runs out of power after 3,000, so why?
Meh, 'cause I like knowing how fast the engine is going.
meh, me 2
I'm a control freak and like watching gauges.
I'm such a control freak that I like controlling gauges.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 19, 2012, 09:12:17 PM
I'm such a control freak that I like controlling gauges.
Well I can control the speedometer, tach, and somewhat control the oil pressure (goes up when I hit the gas). Can't do much about the temperature, though. Unless I just turn the car off, but that's lame. Can't go FAST with it turned off.
There has been a ticking problem since I got the new engine. It's either the lifter for the #5 or #7 cylinder, or I heard an exhaust leak can sound similar? My dad doesnt't seem too worried about it, but I'm a semi-perfectionist and don't like odd noises. (yes, it is ironic that I am somewhat of a perfectionist and own this far-from-perfect car)
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 24, 2012, 08:41:20 AM
There has been a ticking problem since I got the new engine. It's either the lifter for the #5 or #7 cylinder, or I heard an exhaust leak can sound similar? My dad doesnt't seem too worried about it, but I'm a semi-perfectionist and don't like odd noises. (yes, it is ironic that I am somewhat of a perfectionist and own this far-from-perfect car)
Pull the plug wire on the suspect cylinder and see if the noise changes.
I'll try that this afternoon if I can remember.
The car sometimes chugs a bit when I get on the gas. Not sure if it's a fuel system problem, a carb tune problem, a timing problem, or me being in too high of a gear. Need to hurry up and get a tach, then I can know my shift points a bit better and I should probably tune the engine anyway, even if it turns out that it's not the cause of this specific problem.
Also need to call the bodyman for a third time. Need to hurry up and get the door aligned so it won't leak and I can put the carpet in. Made a box for the subwoofer and panels for the speakers. Just need to cover them and mount them. Should look sexy.
Finally bolted the passenger seat all the way down. It's only had the front two brackets bolted to the floor - the back was just resting there.
Also took out the parking brake dash light. The sensor thingamajing on the brake lever is broken, so the light was always on when I turned the headlights on. Just took out the bulb so I wouldn't have to look at it all the time, since I'm too lazy to bother actually fixing it right now. I know if the parking brake is on or off, don't need a light.
The tach that I have in the garage seems to be the same size as any of the other ones I was looking at, so I'm probably just going to use it. It won't fit on the steering column, but I might be able to mount it in the front of the shifter on the transmission tunnel.
I pulled the spark plug on cylinder 7 and the ticking noise didn't change. I didn't mess with cylinder 5, though I probably should have. I think it's 7, but while I was doing it I should have tried 5 anyway.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 30, 2012, 05:32:56 PM
Also took out the parking brake dash light. The sensor thingamajing on the brake lever is broken, so the light was always on when I turned the headlights on. Just took out the bulb so I wouldn't have to look at it all the time, since I'm too lazy to bother actually fixing it right now. I know if the parking brake is on or off, don't need a light.
If you suddenly discover your rear brakes are smoking after a long drive, I think you'll be able to figure out why. :lol:
Tach is hooked up, just need to get two screws to mount it. Of all the junk in the garage, apparently there aren't two small screws that will work. :facepalm:
Bodyman came by today. Looked at it all and I think he'd do a really good job. Estimate was $4600 for door/fender alignment, body work, and paint. Doesn't seem to be too bad of a price, but it's not my money to spend. It's up to mi padre.
Need to figure out how to seal the smuggler's box/front panel of the bed. I think just some sealer/caulking could work, but I'll have to check out the El Camino forums to make sure. I think I might as well strip the paint in the bed, repaint with POR15, and then put in a bedliner after I seal the panel. Should have no leakage after that.
You shoud do one of those spray in bedliners. Then you won't have to worry about moister getting under the bedliner.
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on May 05, 2012, 08:06:31 AM
You shoud do one of those spray in bedliners. Then you won't have to worry about moister getting under the bedliner.
Yep! :ohyeah:
Put the tach in this weekend. Turns out the rev limiter and shift light actually do work. Limiter is set to 6000, shift light at 5000 (don't think I've actually revved it that high, so it's more like a "just in case" light if I fall asleep and am somehow not woken up by the roaring V8)
It didn't start last night, so I had to grab the BMW key and leave - didn't have time to mess with it. Told my dad and he went out to fix it. I knew it was a problem with the clutch lock-out. Apparently something was hanging down behind the dash and preventing the pedal from going down all the way, even though it was down completely. So he got it started, but noticed it was acting weird - like it was flooded. Ended up taking the top off the carb and cleaning it out. Runs quite well now, and the low speed chug when you get on the gas seems to have disappeared. :rockon:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/tach001.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/tach002.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/tach003.jpg)
The 3 gauge pod is just chillin' behind it for now. They'll be gone once I get the overhead console put in.
LOL! Thats a hell of a place to mount such an important gauge bro!
Eh, it's not a big deal. Couldn't really fit one on the steering column because it's a tilt column. While having it down low makes it harder to glance at quickly, it's not like I stare at it constantly.
That long-ass lever needs a T-handle.
Quote from: Rupert on May 07, 2012, 08:15:18 PM
That long-ass lever needs a T-handle.
Nah, balls are much better.
Wow, the tach has a rev limiter built in? Cool.
Car is out of commission for a bit. It's been acting weird at times, almost stalling out and doesn't like to rev. Assumed it was vapor locking or the fuel pressure was too low for some other reason. Checked the oil dipstick today and it smells like gas. So the oil needs to get changed and I'll have to figure out where the fuel is entering the block from. Fuel pump?
Nevermind. Forgot it flooded before my dad cleaned out the carb on Sunday. Should be fine after I change the oil this afternoon.
Gotta love all the "Quirks" these old cars have!
What kind of a carb is on dis ting
Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 11, 2012, 01:59:17 PM
Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM
Do you have a pressure regulator on it? If the fuel pump is putting out more than 6.5 psi it will flood, Edelbrock themselves say so.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on May 11, 2012, 04:42:13 PM
Do you have a pressure regulator on it? If the fuel pump is putting out more than 6.5 psi it will flood, Edelbrock themselves say so.
It's a stock style fuel pump, shouldn't be too much for it to handle. I think it flooded because of a clog. Dunno for sure, I wasn't there when it happened.
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 11, 2012, 09:21:48 PM
It's a stock style fuel pump, shouldn't be too much for it to handle. I think it flooded because of a clog. Dunno for sure, I wasn't there when it happened.
I dunno, my stock pump put out close to 8 psi.
Carb has been taken apart three times now. First time it was cleaned out, second time it was rebuilt, and this time it was cleaned out some more. Turns out half the idle circuit was clogged with some sort of papery cloth thing, possibly a piece of of the old filter. It's running much nicer now, though I'll still put a regulator on to make sure it's not being overloaded.
Putting together my speaker boxes to primer and then plastidip. It's a bit too hot and humid to spray it right now, so I'll wait till later tonight or early tomorrow morning.
Pulled the front bed panel yesterday to reseal it. Need to grind off some rust and bolt in some supports and it should be ready to go back in. I think I might take it to Line-X to have them spray in a bed liner to further seal it off.
I'm going to call the bodyman in a minute to see if he can align the doors/fenders and fill in some of the holes in the body by the start of July, so I can still take the car to the show in Columbus. After that I'll get it painted.
Bodyman said he should be able to do it next week. Ordered some '69 Camaro front marker lights for him to swap in. All other marker lights, emblems, and reverse lights will be shaved.
The Bosch 040 fuel pump in my 940 operates at 94 PSI. :mask:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10087.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10088.jpg)
There are 3 other panels as well. One for the amp, which will be mounted on the back wall under the passenger side speaker, and two to cover the amp and smugglers box (driver's side) and finish the "wall".
Still need to sand the primer, then drill the holes for the mounting bolts, then plastidip and do the final install.
What does a Mormon smuggle in the smuggler's box? Red Bull?
Quote from: Laconian on June 05, 2012, 12:51:27 PM
What does a Mormon smuggle in the smuggler's box? Red Bull?
Yuban and boxer briefs.
:lol:
Timestamp of first post: October 04, 2008, 11:49:56 AM
Wow...
Alex was a wee kidlet when he started on this thing.
Quote from: Laconian on June 05, 2012, 12:51:27 PM
What does a Mormon smuggle in the smuggler's box? Red Bull?
My other 4 wives.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 05, 2012, 02:31:31 PM
My other 4 wives.
So you're that guy on that TV show, huh? :lol:
Quote from: Laconian on June 05, 2012, 12:51:27 PM
What does a Mormon smuggle in the smuggler's box? Red Bull?
Speaking of this, I do plan on selling caffeinated beverages out of my door room at BYU. They don't sell any on campus, so I'll grab a couple of cases of Dr. Pepper, Mountain Dew, and whatever else people want and stock the mini fridge. $0.50-1.00 a can should bring a reasonable profit, and there's technically no rule against caffeine, it's just not sold on campus.
HEATHEN!!
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 06, 2012, 08:34:29 AM
Speaking of this, I do plan on selling caffeinated beverages out of my door room at BYU. They don't sell any on campus, so I'll grab a couple of cases of Dr. Pepper, Mountain Dew, and whatever else people want and stock the mini fridge. $0.50-1.00 a can should bring a reasonable profit, and there's technically no rule against caffeine, it's just not sold on campus.
What the fuck. Why would you ever go to such a terrible school?
Do they at least sell coffee? I'd probably blow my head off without caffeine after about 2 days.
Quote from: thecarnut on June 06, 2012, 11:21:12 AM
What the fuck. Why would you ever go to such a terrible school?
Do they at least sell coffee? I'd probably blow my head off without caffeine after about 2 days.
There's more to life than caffeine?!
Quote from: thecarnut on June 06, 2012, 11:21:12 AM
What the fuck. Why would you ever go to such a terrible school?
Do they at least sell coffee? I'd probably blow my head off without caffeine after about 2 days.
LOL no coffee is one of the things Mormons don't drink. Caffeinated soda is technically fine, dunno why they don't sell it on campus. I guess just so they don't offend the crazy strict people.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on June 06, 2012, 11:54:50 AM
There's more to life than caffeine?!
no wai
Health study du jour says that coffee is effective at warding off Alzheimer's.
Quote from: Laconian on June 06, 2012, 03:46:17 PM
Health study du jour says that coffee is effective at warding off Alzheimer's.
My grandma drank/drinks coffee, although I think she switched to caffeine free a while back. Didn't keep the Alzheimers away. :(
:(
It's not too bad at the moment. She still knows who everyone is and such, just doesn't remember some little things. It's probably also due to the fact that she lives in Port Angeles and is up there by herself for the most part. I think it'd be good for her to move to a place that she can have a bit more "involved" life, but if she's happy there, I guess that's all that matters.
This has nothing to do with burnouts.
I'll take a video sometime if I can figure out a way to mount the camera. Maybe just duct tape it to the passenger headrest...
Before:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10089.jpg)
After:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10090.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10091.jpg)
'69 Camaro bezels, original light housing behind it (Chevelles and Camaros apparently shared that part). Didn't like the engine designation since it's incorrect and I think it looks cleaner without it. Was going to shave the marker lights too, but the headlights don't wrap around so I wanted something on the side. The hole from the previous emblem will be filled next week when I bring the car to the bodyman.
WOW! I don't think I've ever seen 307 badges.
I'm assuming most people swap them out for 350 or 396. I would do that, but I'm just debadging the whole car (except maybe the bowtie on the grill).
Before:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10093.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10092.jpg)
After:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10095.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG10094.jpg)
Should be all smooth once the bodyman is finished.
Those reverse lights were pretty awful.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on June 09, 2012, 08:12:04 PM
Those reverse lights were pretty awful.
It's like somebody at the factory said "Oh, damn, we forgot to put reversing lights on this thing!" "No problem, I found these at the bottom of the parts bin. Just stick 'em anywhere on the tailgate."
I agree. Not sure why they put them there. '68 El Caminos have them in the bumper, where the reflectors are on '69-72 models. I plan on getting a set of those.
(http://www.newstalgiamotors.com/images-content/cars/1968ElCamino/31.jpg)
So is the body guy going to whag in some bondo on a piece of chicken wire and call it a day?
Nooooo. The correct way, with all metal. I didn't go find one of 2o6's mechanics. :lol:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3826.jpg)
With panel:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3827.jpg)
Without panel:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3832.jpg)
Rust and left over seal stuff will be ground off. I'll probably put something together to support it better and keep it from sagging like it was. The original support was all rusted out. You can see my friend's attempt to fix it (when he put in the new floorboards). It'll get resealed and then I'll probably get a Line-X bedliner to further seal it. The bed will still be lumpy, but I plan on getting a tonneau cover so it'll be hidden.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 14, 2012, 12:15:51 PM
El Camino got dropped off at the bodyman's place this morning. Should be prettier once I get it back at the end of the month. All holes filled, doors and fenders aligned, marker lights shaved, etc. He might start to fix the rust/bondo spots as well. I'm getting the car back beginning of July to go to the big car show, then he'll finish the bodywork, paint, and spray the bedliner. I'm just going with black paint.
Like I said in the chat thread, car will be gone until the end of the month, gettin' all prettied up.
Cost: ~$5000. :mask:
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 14, 2012, 09:29:07 PM
Like I said in the chat thread, car will be gone until the end of the month, gettin' all prettied up.
Cost: ~$5000. :mask:
Well ain't that naaaaaaaaaaas
Went to the junkyard and got some electric fans from a ~2003 Windstar. $40 and about half an hour's worth of work.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3834.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/IMG_3836.jpg)
Should fit fairly easily. Just have to figure out how to mount it once I get the car back.
The car has no factory air conditioning. Should I get a Vintage Air kit? It'd definitely be nice, but $$$. Probably like $1200. That'd be about all of my spending money from my job this summer.
Basically, I could either get:
- air conditioning
or
- new 5 channel amp to drive all of the speakers instead of just the sub
- new iPod
- good pair of headphones
- whatever other stupid things I decide to buy
None of these.
$1200 can get you a nice set of aluminum heads with valves/springs and a posi rear end.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 21, 2012, 11:21:07 PM
None of these.
$1200 can get you a nice set of aluminum heads with valves/springs and a posi rear end.
THIS IS A WISE MAN
Don't waste your money on a new set of speakers, you get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers
Air conditioning.
I mean, do you want it to be a luxury tourer, or a muscle ute?
Luxury ute? No, wait, muscle tourer!
Quote from: Laconian on June 21, 2012, 11:38:27 PM
Luxury ute? No, wait, muscle tourer!
Coming soon to a BMW near you...
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 21, 2012, 11:21:07 PM
None of these.
$1200 can get you a nice set of aluminum heads with valves/springs and a posi rear end.
Posi, maybe. The engine already has enough power for now. I'll probably upgrade it eventually, but there are other things that need attention first.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 21, 2012, 11:31:08 PM
I mean, do you want it to be a luxury tourer, or a muscle ute?
Luxury muscle touring ute. :lol:
Mike the bodyman said the rear quarter panels had like half an inch of bondo on them, so new replacement sheetmetal had to be ordered and put in. Can't say I'm surprised. Not sure if this will increase the price or not. Although at this point I don't really care. Just want to get it done, and done the right way.
Imma be honest! I would have ran out of patience with this car about 2 years ago! :mask:
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 30, 2012, 03:19:31 PM
Mike the bodyman said the rear quarter panels had like half an inch of bondo on them, so new replacement sheetmetal had to be ordered and put in. Can't say I'm surprised. Not sure if this will increase the price or not. Although at this point I don't really care. Just want to get it done, and done the right way.
I'm pretty sure cutting out and replacing the entire rear quarters will increase the price a decent amount.
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on July 01, 2012, 09:46:19 AM
Imma be honest! I would have ran out of patience with this car about 2 years ago! :mask:
I pretty much did. :lol: Just never found anything better, so kept putting it together (slowly). Now it's actually to the point where I like it.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on July 01, 2012, 02:11:13 PM
I'm pretty sure cutting out and replacing the entire rear quarters will increase the price a decent amount.
I'm not sure. He said he'd call if he ran into any large problems. I think he went ahead and started that without talking to me or my dad first, so it might be included with his original estimate. Or at least the labor price might not go up, might just have to pay for the cost of the panels. We'll see. Not too worried about it, he's definitely doing a good job. Much better than any regular bodyshop could do.
Got the car back so I can go to the car show on Saturday. Here's what it looks likes at the moment:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2352.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2353.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2355.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2356.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2357.jpg)
Whole new passenger side quarter panel (driver's side will be replaced when I take it back), antenna removed and the hole filled, random other holes filled, random rust repair, doors and fenders aligned for the most part.
Still a lot of work to do. Can't wait to get it all done.
Stereo is in, somewhat. 3 of the 6 panels are in, with the 6x9s and the subwoofer. Subwoofer isn't hooked up, though. Hooking up the amp would take too long, so it's just chillin there looking pretty at the moment.
Sounds pretty nice. Ipod hookup and aux cable both work, and I can get FM radio through my phone (I took out the antenna and haven't gotten a new one yet)
Also replaced the burnt out taillight and bought floor mats. Figured that's an easy way to get a little bit of carpet in the car and requires no work at all. And I'll need them once I put the carpet in anyway.
Tomorrow it'll all get washed. Body, wheels & tires, engine bay, and chrome bits.
I'll also put this in the back window at the show:
(http://www.grillroompapichulo.cz/UserFiles/grillroomcz/Image/Under-construction%20sign.jpg)
:lol:
First driving video I've taken:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ro70Ut5TJuE
I'm glad to see it's moving under its own power!
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on July 15, 2012, 03:30:56 PM
I'm glad to see it's moving under its own power!
It has been! :rage:
Ordered a new fuel filler door and gave it to Mike the Bodyman to install this week.
http://www.haganauto.com/product_p/45rq.htm
(http://www.haganauto.com/v/vspfiles/photos/45RQ-2T.jpg)
Should look nicer than the stock one and it's more sturdy. The current filler neck's support is rusted, so it's just hanging there with no support. This one has the metal neck coming out of it, then connects to the gas tank's neck with a rubber fuel hose.
Apparently my dad also ordered the bed cover today. Should ship by Wednesday, hopefully it'll be here before I leave for vacation on Saturday.
https://www.craftecinc.com/index.php?main_page=gallery
Just go to the "El Camino 1968-1972" album and you can see all the pictures of it. Bolts into the front of the bed and uses gas struts to raise up. I've seen numerous on Caminos at car shows and they are definitely the best solution. Not heavy like a fiberglass cover and doesn't look tacky like snap-on covers.
The painter has been a bit delayed the past few months (his dad had a stroke and passed away) so my project is behind. Still in the bodywork phase. My dad visited the shop on Saturday and took some pictures. He said Mike (the painter) will aim to finish by mid-December. That'd be perfect timing for me to switch cars over Christmas break, so hopefully it works out.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/november20122.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/november20124.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/november20121.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/november20123.jpg)
If it does get done by Christmas, I'll have 2 weeks to work on it.
I think my goals would be:
- insulation and carpet
- install the electric fans
- install the whole sound system, including sub/amp
- assemble and install the bed cover
- maybe install the overhead console. I need to order the electric gauges for that.
It's not going to be done in time for me to drive it to Utah. Oh well.
Went to the shop and helped him out today. I basically just sanded the sides of the tailgate and door jambs for a few hours. Might go back tomorrow to work on the door.
Old hood wasn't worth keeping (rust spots above some of the supports), so I got a new one. Still the SS style, so it won't be any real difference.
Really just want to get it back. I need a car to mess around with again, or I'll just keep browsing craigslist for cars for my dad. Or motorcycles. Which I can't afford.
You still going with red paint?
It's gonna be a flat or satin black. I'll put some sort of pinstriping on it too.
NICE!!!!
Should look sweet with the gray graphite wheels.
Need to figure out a way to mount a surfboard on top of the tonneau cover. It's a metal frame with vinyl stretched around it and I don't think the frame can handle the weight of a board by itself, so I'll have to do a few modifications. Maybe some folding legs on the bottom side, so it can support the board when needed or fold up and allow me to haul stuff in the bed.
Did you get those subs installed?
I got the box made, just need to do some finishing touches and install the amp.
At least do satin black... flat black just looks like you bought a replacement sheetmetal piece and never bothered painting it.
Well the whole car will be the same color. Paint is already picked out, I'm just not sure what the final finish is.
Satin. Flat looks ghetto.
Flat black = primer.
Seems like with all the effort and time you've put in it, you'd want a shiny color.
I never understood why someone would want to paint a car to look like a wood stove.
Got a text from my dad yesterday. He said it's looking good and might be in primer next week. Body bushings have been replaced and the third brake light is installed in the tailgate. Hopefully by the time I get home at the end of May I'll be able to drive it. :rockon:
Went and saw it today. It's in primer and looking good. Should be painted this week, along with a spray in bedliner. He's also gonna put in a roll bar tube for the shoulder harnesses. After that I should have it back!
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 28, 2013, 03:57:48 PM
Went and saw it today. It's in primer and looking good. Should be painted this week, along with a spray in bedliner. He's also gonna put in a roll bar tube for the shoulder harnesses. After that I should have it back!
:high5:
So what is the final paint going to be?
Neon green with pink flames.
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 29, 2013, 10:17:34 AM
Neon green with pink flames.
I'll stun gun you in the nuts.........
:evildude:
Flat black with gloss black flames.
Quote from: Rupert on May 30, 2013, 10:22:15 PM
Flat black with gloss black flames.
Strike that, reverse it
It's home!! Has a slight fuel leak between the filler neck and gas tank, though. Gonna have to fix that...
I'll post pictures once I wash it.
:dance:
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 10, 2013, 08:13:34 AM
It's home!! Has a slight fuel leak between the filler neck and gas tank, though. Gonna have to fix that...
Yeah, fix it before this happens.....
(http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/2345000-2345999/2345518_22_full.jpg)
I drained about half the tank so it doesn't leak now. Tried putting on some silly putty-like stuff, but it didn't stick. Need to clean it off better and try again. If that doesn't work, maybe some fuel resistant silicon and then something more sturdy on top of that.
Maybe I'll just weld it. jk
Make sure the tank is full when you do.
I think it might be fixed after the second try. We'll see in a day or two when I fill it up again.
Next step is to get the passenger compartment all sealed up. I think I need to re-seal a hole in the cowl, and then the bed isn't perfectly sealed. I think the caulking is actually still wet, but it has bedliner on top of it now so I'm not sure if it will ever get dry... I'll give it a day or so and see if it improves. Otherwise I might have to strip down the front edge of the bed and redo that stuff.
still no pictures? :ttiuwop:
Useless no more!!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2574_zpsd0ad8af3.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2575_zps3cf25549.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2576_zps14e4a29d.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2577_zpsf47731d5.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2578_zpsdbce130a.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2579_zps3a6bb98d.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2580_zps248b4f47.jpg)
So when are you going to actually paint it? Nice job on the primer, though.
j/k; looks good!
Nice! Is that the rear door handle or a 3rd brake light on the tail gate?
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on June 11, 2013, 11:36:24 PM
Nice! Is that the rear door handle or a 3rd brake light on the tail gate?
3rd brake light
Awesome! So, is it done officially? You can now drive it around?
I can drive it, but I still need to put the interior in before it's officially done. That'll get done soon, after I make sure there aren't any more leaks. Then it's simple to put in the door panels, carpet, new kick panels that will fit a pair of 6.5" speakers, and the rest of the stereo. Oh, and repaint the dash.
Very sharp.
Second gas tank fix failed. Moving on to different stuff - either fuel resistant gasket or JB Weld. If that doesn't work, new gas tank time.
Just buy a new tank.
Putting a new tank in is a pain, though.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 14, 2013, 08:06:20 PM
Putting a new tank in is a pain, though.
(http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=415413&stc=1&d=1272406459)
Beer keg gas tank. Problem solved!
Third brake light is in!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2581_zps27c4be4b.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2582_zps1468f20b.jpg)
Slight issue - can't just wire it into the existing wiring, since the brake lights have two wires. One for the low setting when you turn on the headlights, and one for the brakes and turn signals. If I connect it to the brake wire like it should be, it'll flash when I use the left turn signal. I'll have to get another brake pedal switch and wire it all the way to there.
edit: jk, wired it up to the current switch before it connects with the turn signal. Only weird thing now is that it'll flash when the 4-way flashers are on, but that's not a big deal. They'll just be 5-way flashers. :lol:
Dropped the gas tank over the weekend and put JB weld on it. Couldn't get it to leak while it was out of the car, so it should be fixed. Hopefully I didn't break anything while putting it back in the car... :lol:
New kick panels!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-06-18183318_zpsda65fc85.jpg)
Didn't want the ones with speakers included, but I guess they don't sell those anymore. I'll just replace those with my better speakers and figure out another use for those...
Your inner driver's side headlight is kind of crooked.
Probably just the headlight bucket.
Tank is still leaking, so a new one will be necessary.
Beer keg fuel cell in the bed
Too big, wouldn't fit under the tonneau cover.
Matrix of colostomy bags
:rockon:
Most of the leaks are fixed, except for around the kick panels. And the new kick panels should probably make that worse, since the design doesn't seem to include any sealing method. Ugh.
New gas tank is in, door panels are mostly in. Need to fix like 3 more leaky holes and then I can go ahead with the carpet and stereo.
Leaks are being difficult, so screw it. I'll pull the back window after the car show and fix it the right way.
And, as is normal for this car, something simple like screwing in the door arm rest is taking way longer than it should. Yay late 60's GM manufacturing. But the seats are out and I'm in the process of cleaning the floor to put in the insulation and carpet.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2602_zpsa160932f.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2605_zpse438bbb1.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2606_zps282c9935.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2607_zpsd5f42ea6.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2608_zpsb4d43a96.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2610_zpsf7feabdc.jpg)
Whose rental car is that?
Looks good bro! :cheers:
I like everything except what those speakers look like... I'd put black grilles on if it came with them or spraypaint them black.
If I find an easy way to make them look more "stock" I'll probably do it. Doesn't bother me too much though.
Subwoofer isn't working. I don't think I ran a wire from the woofer to the connections in the back of the box when I put it in last year. Oops.
Subwoofer is now working. Stereo sounds great. :rockon:
Now comes 2 hours of organizing my music onto a flashdrive. Apparently the headunit can only read 128 folders, so having a separate folder for each artist isn't possible (240+ artists). I think I'm going to combine similar artists that only have a couple of songs, then artists that have multiple albums can get their own folder. Good thing I have two monitors now, it's perfect for this type of stuff.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 04, 2013, 08:37:25 PM
Subwoofer is now working. Stereo sounds great. :rockon:
Now comes 2 hours of organizing my music onto a flashdrive. Apparently the headunit can only read 128 folders, so having a separate folder for each artist isn't possible (240+ artists). I think I'm going to combine similar artists that only have a couple of songs, then artists that have multiple albums can get their own folder. Good thing I have two monitors now, it's perfect for this type of stuff.
Why didn't you just get something with an auxiliary input?
I have one of those too. But if I can stick a flash drive in it I don't have to worry about plugging in my phone every time I get in the car, plus I can control it through the headunit.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-06163850_zps38586d5d.jpg)
Just ordered a radiator overflow bottle so I can run on the autocross course next weekend. :rockon:
Heh I really ought to do that with le big car. Everybody knows what a Miata does already.
Do ittttttt.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-10114626_zps8c8b4765.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-13103443_zps945fde3d.jpg)
Also got some on the hood and coming off the marker lights.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-13131202_zps44a81085.jpg)
New shift knob, matches the pinstripes pretty well.
I like the old-ass tach. Is it driven off the distributor too?
Yup
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 13, 2013, 09:58:36 AM
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-13103443_zps945fde3d.jpg)
Also got some on the hood and coming off the marker lights.
Nicely done. Now, just don't go overboard.
Ha yeah, I don't plan on getting anything else. Here's the hood and side. The side is like a little hidden gem. :lol:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-13150115_zps54f1f739.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-13150134_zps3c27b45d.jpg)
Tramp Stamp!
Well she can be quite a bitch sometimes, and I'm sure she can pick up desperate guys at a bar...
Not a fan of the pinstripes.
Not ricey enough?
Should have done them in plastidip! (Actually, that'd be pretty cool. Don't know if it would go on neatly, though)
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 13, 2013, 11:15:36 AM
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-07-13131202_zps44a81085.jpg)
Modern stereo head units just don't look right in a classic car.
Luckily, you can get classic style head units with modern technology that will look right at home in your vintage ride!
http://www.classiccarstereos.com/?gclid=CMme7-PqrbgCFWVo7AoduzIAgg (http://www.classiccarstereos.com/?gclid=CMme7-PqrbgCFWVo7AoduzIAgg)
Ehh. :huh: 2-3 times the price and still less functionality (no usb, satellite radio, bluetooth, etc)
Quote from: Madman on July 13, 2013, 07:32:53 PM
Modern stereo head units just don't look right in a classic car.
Luckily, you can get classic style head units with modern technology that will look right at home in your vintage ride!
http://www.classiccarstereos.com/?gclid=CMme7-PqrbgCFWVo7AoduzIAgg (http://www.classiccarstereos.com/?gclid=CMme7-PqrbgCFWVo7AoduzIAgg)
I just have one of these in my glovebox:
http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373825812&sr=8-1&keywords=class+t (http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373825812&sr=8-1&keywords=class+t)
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 13, 2013, 06:16:57 PM
Not ricey enough?
Should have done them in plastidip! (Actually, that'd be pretty cool. Don't know if it would go on neatly, though)
Lawl, and they make the car look less nice (trashier). Just imo, doesn't matter what I think.
It's an El Camino, it's already trashy. :lol:
Quote from: thecarnut on July 14, 2013, 02:02:22 PM
Lawl, and they make the car look less nice (trashier). Just imo, doesn't matter what I think.
Personally, I like the Jimmy the Greek style pinstripes on a satin black like that, rather than the more popular Von Dutch style, but those are still well done, and add to the car. Its a flat black El Camino; a little bit of lowbrow looks good on it.
Tommy the Greek pinstripes are like these, right?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S5JvSy96rOw/TgYVkRtMU4I/AAAAAAABm_0/5aJYRhmFXgI/s400/DSC_0379.JPG)
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 14, 2013, 04:48:51 PM
Tommy the Greek pinstripes are like these, right?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S5JvSy96rOw/TgYVkRtMU4I/AAAAAAABm_0/5aJYRhmFXgI/s400/DSC_0379.JPG)
Yes. Tommy the Greek; not Jimmy, ex-sportscaster guy.
I like those too. Don't know of any guys that do them, though.
I don't like the stripes or shapes on a car.
I do like stickers though, which just means I'm a ricer. :lol:
Quote from: thecarnut on July 14, 2013, 05:29:41 PM
I don't like the stripes or shapes on a car.
I do like stickers though, which just means I'm a ricer. :lol:
Yes, because mass produced vinyl stickers referencing pop culture are so much cooler than an artform that produces something that's unique and takes genuine skill to do right.
I appreciate pinstriping like that, but I don't really like it.
Pinstriping my El Camino (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVmHat8vehg#ws)
Damn impressive, especially with all that noise.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on July 14, 2013, 05:52:20 PM
Yes, because mass produced vinyl stickers referencing pop culture are so much cooler than an artform that produces something that's unique and takes genuine skill to do right.
Sorry I don't like the same things as you, bro the :rolleyes:
Quote from: thecarnut on July 15, 2013, 05:14:55 PM
Sorry I don't like the same things as you, bro the :rolleyes:
No, that's cool you don't like it: I'm just obligated to give you shit about it.
ya know, that general style isn't normally to my taste, but damn if it doesnt look good on your ride. nicely done!
Thanks!
Now I have a whole list of upgrades I want. Some were previously on the list, some are new after running on the autocross.
- Get my electric fans hooked up. Just need to figure out how to mount them and then get the wiring done.
- Order some electric temp/pressure gauges, install them in my overhead console and then put that in the car
- install the new headliner
- figure out if I want some LEDs in the interior (I liked the red LEDs in my BMW that turned on with the headlights - gave a soft glow that let you see a bit more inside the car without being obnoxious. And I might put in two white LEDs running off the door switches)
- Posi/LSD so I don't roast only one tire
- 17 inch wheels and summer tires
- new valve covers
- modify the parking brake so it will work with my new kick panels
- electric fuel pump
For the fans I'd just start out by using those through-the-core ziptie things.
Chrome or black valve covers?
(http://edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/accessories/images/4431.jpg)
(http://edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/accessories/images/4443.jpg)
My air cleaner is chrome, same style as these. Intake is the regular non-chrome finish. Engine block is black, most of the accessories are black. Current valve covers are black. Looks pretty good now (simple, very DD-like) but usually the valve covers match the air cleaner so I'm not sure which to get.
Black. No question.
Black also has the advantage of being much easier to keep clean. That alone might be enough. :lol:
Def Black!
Ordered the black ones along with a chrome breather, a carb tune up kit, and two gauges (water temp and oil pressure) to go in the overhead console.
(http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/100/105/105-3327.jpg)
Also should have some 30 amp relays on the way so I can wire up the electric fans. I'll probably put some on the headlights too, just for fun.
You want to put gauges way up past the edge of your windshield? I think glancing down under the dash is a bit easier and quicker.
If they were gauges that I look at constantly, I'd agree. But they're really just for reassurance that everything is running smoothly.
I dunno, those are two things you'd want to have a corner-of-the-eye alert on were something to go wrong.
Well they'll be right by the rear view mirror. Not completely out of the way.
'Murrica!
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2654cropped_zpsc2eeda80.jpg)
Figured out why my paint keeps pealing on the gas door - gas is leaking out every time I drive. Yay. Need to get that fixed before driving it more. Don't wanna ruin the paint on the fender.
Ugh, looks like the fuel cap/tube was installed incorrectly. This is why I hate letting other people touch my car. :banghead:
I'm going to try some fuel resistant gasket maker and see if that'll help.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 03, 2013, 10:26:35 AM
Ugh, looks like the fuel cap/tube was installed incorrectly. This is why I hate letting other people touch my car. :banghead:
I'm going to try some fuel resistant gasket maker and see if that'll help.
I know the feeling, I don't like people working on my cars.
I remember when I bought my EVO new(the last evo), I didn't want the dealer doing oil changes. I just don't trust anybody to do a better job then me.
I'll even do my own alignments instead of bringing to a shop.
I wish I had the tools to do my own alignment. I managed to do it on our baja car with just wrenches and a measuring tape, but an off road buggy doesn't require nearly as much precision.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 03, 2013, 03:59:20 PM
I wish I had the tools to do my own alignment. I managed to do it on our baja car with just wrenches and a measuring tape, but an off road buggy doesn't require nearly as much precision.
I have some string, 4 jack stands and a ruler. The only thing "special" I have is a digital angle finder that I bought at menards for 20 bucks, I use that to set camber.
How accurate are you with that? I always figured I wouldn't get it set as well as they can at a shop with the fancy laser gizmo thingy.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 03, 2013, 07:49:49 PM
How accurate are you with that? I always figured I wouldn't get it set as well as they can at a shop with the fancy laser gizmo thingy.
camber to .1
I have a steel precision ruler that measure down to the 1/64 of an inch. My miata manual actually provided toe settings in fractions of an inch.
It's probably not as accurate as a laser alignment system, but a alignment shop will spend a fraction of the time as I do on it. So I'm guessing with my willingness to take my time and double check(triple check) my work and be very fussy, it's probably as good or better than what I'd pay 100 bucks for.
I know the cars drive great, track straight, have a proper on center feel and have normal tire wear.
Nice. Maybe I'll try it next time.
In other news, the gas door leak should hopefully be fixed. Put some sealant on the threads of the cap and tightened it down more than before. I'll find out in a couple of hours.
I'm in the process of getting all the stuff to hook up the gauges and overhead console. The console has map lights, which will replace the dome light in the car now. It came out of a Blazer or Tahoe or something, but apparently the light weren't wired to turn on with the doors. Shouldn't be a huge deal - I should be able to connect the door switch wire to the map light wire after the switch and have it turn on with either the doors or the button on the console.
Of course the passenger door switch doesn't really work anyway. It'll turn the light on if you twist the plunger thingy a bit, but not by just opening the door. And of course I could remove/replace the driver's door switch but the passenger side is impossible to get a wrench on. :facepalm: Oh well.
Just kidding, still leaking. Gonna have to call the place that made the thing, since it's apparently coming out the top. It's a capless filler neck, apparently the flappy door thingy doesn't have enough spring to keep sealed.
Convert to a fuel cell?
Go all Pro Street on that ass.
Yuck.
Still emailing about the gas cap... Maybe in the mean time I should just duct tape over it.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2655_zpsebf400bb.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-08-10113953_zps55186c7d.jpg)
Duct tape to the rescue.
Yeah, that wasn't a good fix. The gas dissolves the adhesive and still leaks out. I was hoping it would magically not do that.
I would use nitrile rubber and a hose clamp.
I don't think I can get a clamp on it. I'll just park it and wait for a new cap. Their customer service sucks.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_2657_zps287d4ad5.jpg)
Me gusta. Gives it a nice DD look.
Ignore any dirty or smudgy pieces in the engine bay. I need to give it a good cleaning.
Probably going to need a new parking brake cable. Seems to be broken inside of the passenger side drum.
I consider this a good reason to upgrade to rear disks.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 25, 2013, 03:16:00 PM
Probably going to need a new parking brake cable. Seems to be broken inside of the passenger side drum.
I consider this a good reason to upgrade to rear disks...
Why waste money on rear discs when you only have a bed back there?
Easier to work on, look better, I like spending money.
Labor Day car show
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-08-31145000_zps6453cf01.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/2013-08-31145223_zpse6591dd9.jpg)
New gas cap + some fuel resistant gasket maker on the filler neck stopped the leak. Put the door back on and I'll repaint it sometime this week.
Man your dad's Camaro is the best looking. I love those RSes.
I did a 0-60 run tonight and I think it said 7.5 seconds. That was with a crappy start (turning right at a stoplight), I short shifted a little bit, and I could have sworn a police car turned on its sirens in a nearby parking lot right in the middle. So with a clean run I think it might be sub 7 seconds. I'd say that's pretty good for 260 hp, open diff, and Radial T/As.
Took the headliner out and ran the wires for the gauges. Also cut the sun visors so they'll clear the overhead console. I have new covers for them so I'll just need to find someone who can stitch them up nicely.
Since I'll be leaving for Brazil, my dad will get to drive the car for a while. He'll probably finish putting in the headliner, overhead console, and gauges. Good chance he'll also put the electric fans in and whatever other little projects are sitting in the garage waiting to be started/finished.
Or he might find some other old car and mine will end up sitting in the driveway neglected for 2 years. Who knows. :lol:
Drop it off to me!!! :evildude:
If my dad had another car, I'd be cool with renting it to 'Spinners for $50/day. :lol:
Won't be back on the insurance policy until midnight tonight, but went ahead and drove the car around the neighborhood. Still in love with this car. :wub:
Need to figure out a final solution to keep the speakers/sub from rattling. And put the headliner in. Overhead console and gauges are already set up, looks great.
Crappy picture.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_3138_zps9f951a58.jpg)
Passenger side part of the stereo set up is rattly. Not sure if it can be fixed in the current iteration or if I'll need to make a design change. Tried shoving a folded up dollar bill to fill the gap and absorb the rattle but it didn't fix it super well. Maybe I should have used a $100.
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 13, 2014, 02:09:48 PM
Crappy picture.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/100_3138_zps9f951a58.jpg)
That's differant!
What'd the console come out of? Fits well.
I think it was a Blazer. That or some other late 90s/early 2000s Chevy SUV/truck. Used to have a screen with temperature and a compass where the gauges are now.
Can't take all the credit for it - I saw a couple of other late 60s muscle cars with them and then wanted one for myself.
Current to-do list:
- Shim the front fenders a bit so I can adjust the hood and make a bit more clearance for the windshield wipers
- Hook up the windshield washers and pump
- Headliner
- Fix the stereo rattle
- Install electric fans
- Rear sway bar, possibly upgrade the front too
- Posi-traction
- possibly some further chassis braces
- possibly a tow hitch so I can tow a motorcycle to and from college
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 16, 2014, 04:27:11 PM
Current to-do list:
- Shim the front fenders a bit so I can adjust the hood and make a bit more clearance for the windshield wipers
- Hook up the windshield washers and pump
- Headliner
- Fix the stereo rattle
- Install electric fans
- Rear sway bar, possibly upgrade the front too
- Posi-traction
- possibly some further chassis braces
- possibly a tow hitch so I can tow a motorcycle to and from college
Can't fit a motorcycle in the bed?
I could, but I'd have to take off the bed cover.
Looking like I'll order sway bars from Detroit Speed. Need to do some research and see if anything else should be upgraded at the same time. I know a stock type sway bar can put too much force on the lower control arms (which aren't fully boxed, dumb) but the Detroit Speed bars are a better design and don't mount to the control arms like the stock bar does.
I'd like to find a deal on an entire axle w/ posi, but I might just have to buy a separate posi unit and install it. More difficult, blah.
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 16, 2014, 05:10:00 PM
Looking like I'll order sway bars from Detroit Speed. Need to do some research and see if anything else should be upgraded at the same time. I know a stock type sway bar can put too much force on the lower control arms (which aren't fully boxed, dumb) but the Detroit Speed bars are a better design and don't mount to the control arms like the stock bar does.
I'd like to find a deal on an entire axle w/ posi, but I might just have to buy a separate posi unit and install it. More difficult, blah.
I installed a Powertrax Lock Right in my Sonoma. It was pretty easy, and dirt cheap. It clicks around corners and locks up pretty quickly when power is applied. Look it up.
<3
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/21/6eve9uzy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/22/sata6ude.jpg)
[Wimmer]
OMG LOOK A CAMRY@!!
[/Wimmer]
______________________________
For the rest of you, I hope you're basking in the glorious beauty of The Way.
(I have determined that while The Road is a cool name, The Way is a more accurate translation. And this car is also the one and only Way in life. :rockon: )
Get that rear bar bruh. It'll make a huuuuge difference.
Might get new rear trailing arms from Jegs.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Rear-Trailing-Arms-for-1964-1972-GM-A-Body/2384568/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Rear-Trailing-Arms-for-1964-1972-GM-A-Body/2384568/10002/-1)
Looking like I'm going to do a complete rear end weekend of fun where I'll install a posi, new control arms, and a sway bar all at once.
(http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/images/enkpf01si.jpg)
Enkei PF01s, yes/no?
I'm going to go with no: a might too modern for your car.
Stick with what you've got. It's right for the era.
I want to move up to 17" eventually to have a better tire selection.
There's another set I like - American Racing Shelby wheels. I posted a picture of them a bunch of pages back. Classic style but heavy and expensive.
Pro-touring.com gives some nice info on the all the suspension stuffs. Funny to read the different "sponsors" (vendors) give their spiel to try to get people to buy their stuff, too.
Those adjustable Jegs trailing arms look like they should also allow for a bit of articulation, which is an improvement over stock. They use heim joints, which most of the fancy expensive companies say aren't as good as their stuff, but if it works it works. I'm really just doing it to avoid bending the stock arms anyway.
Was thinking about buying a whole new rear end with a posi, but that seems like a more expensive option, not to mention hard to find a good one that is nearby or can be shipped. And I don't want to wait forever, since I want to do all the rear end upgrades at once. So I'll just go check out my current rear end and find an Eaton posi to match it.
No, you need wheels that have way less offset than that. It doesn't look right to have wheels with no lip at all on an old car.
edit: le quote button master chief
I'm assuming they would have more of a lip if I ordered them with less offset.
Got some L-channel aluminum and decent looking interior screws to re-engineer my speaker/subwoofer set up behind the seats. Right now it has an aluminum C-channel pop riveted to the shelf under the window. Works well, but with decent bass from the 6x9s the front part of the C rattles against the speaker mounting board. Tried putting some rope caulking between them to dampen the rattle, but it's not enough. So with the L-channel I can just screw the pieces together and hopefully eliminate that problem.
Also went to the fabric store to get some vinyl to cover it all, but it was $20-25 a yard. So that'd be over $50 to cover everything. F that noise. I should be able to find some black speaker carpeting for way less. Won't look quite as nice, but that's the fun of building a car while in college.
Ordered 6 yards of carpeting from Parts Express, enough to cover my stuff and also do the trunk of my dad's Camaro. $50, same price as the vinyl for just my car would have been.
Rubber washers, maybe.
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 24, 2014, 04:45:36 PM
Ordered 6 yards of carpeting from Parts Express, enough to cover my stuff and also do the trunk of my dad's Camaro. $50, same price as the vinyl for just my car would have been.
Carpeting for...?
Speaker box
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 25, 2014, 05:02:05 PM
Speaker box
Nice. Parts Express is da shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit
Didn't realize they were so close to me, too. Could have picked up the stuff if I really wanted to, they're just north of the city. Probably would have cost the same for gas as it was for shipping, though.
...you live in Ohio??
Technically Kentucky, but I'm right across the river from Cincinnati.
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 25, 2014, 05:10:38 PM
Technically Kentucky, but I'm right across the river from Cincinnati.
Oh, I gotcha.
Quote from: hotrodalex on March 25, 2014, 05:10:38 PM
Technically Kentucky, but I'm right across the river from Cincinnati.
Florence, Y'all!
Got that right! :rockon:
C-channel is out, L-channel is in. Removing the plastidip from the speaker boxes and then I'll glue the carpet on. The pieces for the 6x9s will need to be trimmed down a bit to allow for some clearance with the carpet, but that's not a big deal.
Plastidip is a pain to get off primered wood. Kinda peels off but it'll take 10 days. So I got some goo-gone and a scraper instead.
Heat gun......
Too late!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/ryra6age.jpg)
Gettin there. Probably could have left it on but I didn't want it to peel somewhere down the road and cause issues.
I'm also impressed with Goo Gone's ability to remove the plastidip while leaving the primer untouched.
Goo Gone is pretty impressive stuff.
The 6x9 panels peeled off pretty easily. Just need to do a little trimming so they'll fit with the carpet wrapped around them, then glue the carpet on.
Got the 6x9 panels done. Just need to drill a few mounting holes but can't do that until I finish the sub box.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/03/ajamybyv.jpg)
I'm basically a pro.
Nice.
Sub box is done, just need to put the woofer back in. Might mount it all back in the car tomorrow if it's not raining.
I'm deciding to forget about the posi for now, just gonna go ahead and get the new control arms and sway bar. Will still be doing one-wheel peels but the rear end will be much more settled in the autocross.
Hellwig sway bars, 1 1/8" adjustable in the rear and 1 1/4" in the front. Current bar is 7/8" in the front so all around improvement.
Going with the Jegs branded tubular control arms. Too bad I'm not in school right now because I could easily build those myself, literally the same thing that I built for the SAE baja car last year, just a bit beefier for a car weighing 3,500 lbs instead of 400 lbs.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/uqepyre5.jpg)
This thing has been a huge PITA to put in today so if it still rattles I'm gonna light it on fire.
Nice looking from here.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 06, 2014, 09:22:06 PM
Hellwig sway bars, 1 1/8" adjustable in the rear and 1 1/4" in the front. Current bar is 7/8" in the front so all around improvement.
Going with the Jegs branded tubular control arms. Too bad I'm not in school right now because I could easily build those myself, literally the same thing that I built for the SAE baja car last year, just a bit beefier for a car weighing 3,500 lbs instead of 400 lbs.
1 1/4" seems kind of small compared to the 1 1/8" rear bar, so initially that makes me wonder if I should go with a larger front bar to make sure the balance is right. I'll have to do a little research.
I changed my mind on the Jegs control arms, probably gonna go with UMI tubular adjustable arms. A bit more expensive but beefier.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 08, 2014, 01:41:15 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/uqepyre5.jpg)
This thing has been a huge PITA to put in today so if it still rattles I'm gonna light it on fire.
Nice build; nice and clean. How does it sound with the speakers pointing right into the backs of the seats? Are there front/door speakers as well?
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 09, 2014, 10:03:45 AM
1 1/4" seems kind of small compared to the 1 1/8" rear bar, so initially that makes me wonder if I should go with a larger front bar to make sure the balance is right. I'll have to do a little research.
I changed my mind on the Jegs control arms, probably gonna go with UMI tubular adjustable arms. A bit more expensive but beefier.
In general, assuming normal stock domestic tendencies to understeer, having a thicker rear bar will be what you actually want
The seats block some of the higher frequencies but the kick panels have some 6.5s that make up for it.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on April 09, 2014, 11:12:40 AM
In general, assuming normal stock domestic tendencies to understeer, having a thicker rear bar will be what you actually want
A Hellwig rep recommended a 1 5/16" bar, sounds good to me.
I need to up the spring rate in the front. Passenger side likes to rub on certain bumps, usually on left hand turns where the suspension is already loading that corner.
Unfortunately if I get new springs that might mean I'll need to upgrade the shocks too. Also not sure if I'd want to go back to a stock spindle (have a 2" drop spindle at the moment) and only lower using springs. Not sure which is better for the geometry and bump steer and budget. I'll have to do a little research. Wish I could just make some fancy computer models of all this. :lol:
Ordered the rear bar from Amazon for $216, which is like 50% off. Sweet. Technically not in stock right now, so it won't ship for a couple of weeks. Oh well. Summit for $260, ships today. After tax it was only $30 more and I don't wanna risk not getting it in time for the first autocross event in May.
I'll install this bar and then see where to go from there. I'm assuming I'll need a larger front bar.
Shouldn't actually need the rear trailing arms, since the sway bar is a different design and doesn't mount to the lower arms like the stock bars (stupid, stupid idea, GM). I want to get them anyway to prevent binding and axle hop, though. Problem is I don't have enough cash laying around at the moment to get both sets of trailing arms and a new front bar. So maybe just the front bar and lower arms for now and then get new upper arms in a month.
Need to dig through some receipts so I can find the front spring rate and see about bumping that up a bit.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/18/y7uzy7um.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/18/vy9upy3y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/18/aga3udy4.jpg)
I officially own a racecar now.
Took about 4 hours since you have to drill some holes in the frame for the front mounting points, which means you have to take the springs out. But overall was a clean install and the rear behaves itself much better now. Still have the stock bar up front and it wasn't oversteer happy.
Front spring rate is 487 lb/in. Hotchkis springs have 512 lb/in and 580 lb/in (big block) options. Since this is a racecar now, 580 lb/in seems like the obvious choice.
More research is necessary, however.
Hell 580 lb/in is the obvious choice because it's an actual significant increase over 487. Why would you buy new springs only 25 in/lb over your old ones?
Quote from: Secret Chimp on April 18, 2014, 07:00:27 PM
Hell 580 lb/in is the obvious choice because it's an actual significant increase over 487. Why would you buy new springs only 25 in/lb over your old ones?
Part of the fun is upping the spring rate while keeping the same ride height.
Easy option is coil overs, but my wallet says no.
Same ride height? Slam it!
I ain't no ricer. :nono:
I think it would look cool slammed.
It's slammed as much as possible while still being somewhat practical and not riding on the bumpstops.
I can go lower in the back but might run into issues when I haul stuff in the bed, which is why I only lowered it 1/2".
Stupid practicality...
If you'd like to contribute to my air ride fund, feel free.
I went ahead and emailed DSE and Hotchkis asking about spring heights (and spring rate in DSE's case). Kind of annoying how springs are sold based off stock ride height, since I have no idea what that is. Just going off my current springs.
Through my research it also appears that I should get some tall ball joints for my upper control arms to improve the suspension geometry.
If you contribute to my new wheels fund, I'll contribute to your air bags fund.
I'm thinking forgo the springs for now and see if the bigger front sway bar will fix the rubbing. Normally it's just on largish bumps during a corner, so with less bodyroll the cornering load should be a bit lighter and compress the spring less.
I do, however, need a 600 series steering box. The one my dad installed in his car is amazing - comparable to the E46 BMW we had.
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/sum-1432812gmml3_ml.jpg)
yay or nay?
I'm thinking yes.
18x8.5, 4.5" backspacing and -6mm offset in the front
18x9.5, 5.250" backspacing and 0mm offset in the rear
Need to find tires for that, though. Probably some performance all seasons. Better grip than the current Radial T/As in dry, wet, and snow. Would love some sticky summer rubber but I don't have space to bring a set of winter tires with me to college.
Continental Extreme Contact DWS 235/40R18 front 265/40R18 rear.
Other option is 235/45R18 in the front. Not sure if I want to bump the overall diameter 0.2" or let it drop 0.7"
Get the bigger tire. You'll wear it down soon enough anyways.
The smaller ones are $20 cheaper though. :lol:
And this rear sway bar has upped the fun level to 11. Forreal doriftos around every turn now.
If you want to save money, use 17s
$1700 plus some tax.
Ugh.
Can't decide if I should wait or just loan myself some money out of my savings and have big wheels now. I mean that sounds like the obvious choice to me.
http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp (http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp)
Handy website when changing tire/wheel sizes. The 18s will fit perfectly. They'll be a bit wider so it'll have less of the old sucked-in wheels look.
What size are the current rims and tires?
15x7.5 with 235/60s all the way around.
You want 'em for the Corvette? Tires are pretty new.
Summit says the expected ship date is 5/19. Booooooo. Gonna call tomorrow to order since I'm gonna try to price match Tire Rack's price on the tires. That way they can be mounted and balanced when they arrive and I won't need a tire shop.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 21, 2014, 03:30:26 PM
15x7.5 with 235/60s all the way around.
You want 'em for the Corvette? Tires are pretty new.
Those tires won't fit.
Too wide?
Yes. Also, they are Cooper Cobras.
Best tires on the planet!
Summit says 5/21 today, so I think they're getting the wheels from somewhere else.
Found wheels/tires on performanceplustire.com so I think I'll order from there and hopefully they'll get here faster.
$1630 poorer.
Gonna put the current wheels on Craigslist. If anyone on here wants them you can have a $2 friends and family and carspin discount.
With a big sway bar in the back and 18" wheels, I feel like this thread should be moved to the Fast Lane.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 22, 2014, 06:43:57 PM
With a big block 454 sway bar in the back and 18" wheels, I feel like this thread should be moved to the Fast Lane.
;)
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on April 22, 2014, 08:44:06 PM
;)
Big blocks are just dead weight nowadays. You can make crazy amounts of power with a small block.
Called about the order, looks like they get to do some warehouse searching for the right size/backspacings. Hopefully they'll find them by tonight. Gonna take a bit longer since it might have to go from a warehouse in Indianapolis back to California to be mounted and then shipped back east to my doorstep.
As long as they show up here sometime. :lol:
On back order, will take 30-45 days.
I think they might have 18x9.5 with 5.75 backspacing. 265s all the way around? I'm thinking yes. Not 100% sure if it'll fit up front since I have drop spindles. But stock spindles are only like $115 from Summit if I have to go that route.
How about this for an El Camino project...
http://www.autoblog.com/2014/04/24/mini-interns-turn-paceman-into-adventure-pickup/ (http://www.autoblog.com/2014/04/24/mini-interns-turn-paceman-into-adventure-pickup/)
(http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj593/MexicoCityM3/cdb4b89aacb2ddfdabcabda2a48dfd0f_zps833d018a.jpg)
You can call it a Tini! (Truck mini)
Back to tires, I could put 335s on it!
(https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/941882_522415147820501_784029412_n.jpg)
Just need a lot of other work done first... :lol:
How does he turn?
Skid steer?
E-brake and doriftos.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 26, 2014, 02:32:52 PM
I think they might have 18x9.5 with 5.75 backspacing. 265s all the way around? I'm thinking yes.
In stock.
Will be a little pricier, asked the guy for a discount - just to match the original order price, so like $60. Not sure if I'll actually get that, since he has to get the wheels shipped from an Atlanta warehouse. We'll see, was worth asking at least.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/02/tumunure.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/02/quzuvuna.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/02/a8uby8u9.jpg)
Out with the old 7/8" front bar, in with the new 1 5/16" bar.
2 of the bolts off the car were crap so I bought new ones last night, but then I found out that one of the holes was also stripped so I had to tap them out to 3/8". Should have been an easy install, but of course it wasn't. Nothing is on this car. :lol:
Slight understeer at the limit now, I think. I'll probably take the rear bar up a notch because why not.
Rides a bit stiffer but feels more comfortable and confidence inspiring.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on April 22, 2014, 09:05:36 PM
Big blocks are just dead weight nowadays. You can make crazy amounts of power with a small block.
+1. If I ever take over the vette and have some cash I'm swapping in a hot small block.
I'll be sticking with a small block. I kinda want to put a mild turbocharger on it eventually. That would nice since I go from 700 feet above sea level to 4700 feet for 8 months of the year.
In other news, my radio reception is finally acceptable. The headliner is pretty much in and the antenna is now stuck the windshield next to the A pillar so no more static.
Those wheels aren't gonna happen. The ones that were supposed to be on the way to get mounted and balanced were the wrong bolt pattern. Just gonna cancel the order.
After breaking a ball joint on the drag link and an inner tie rod and having to run to autozone a couple of times to get new ones, I finally got a new steering box in. Same type of box, from an '88 Monte Carlo SS, but this time it's rebuilt and not from a junkyard. Old one was leaking pretty badly, thus the replacement. Not sure if it's an improved box or just has less slop due to its newness, but it's a good improvement. Between this box and the one my dad put in his car, I wouldn't bother spending the extra $400 for the Delphi 600.
I had no idea the steering box from an '88 Monte Carlo was interchangable with your car.
Yep, GM used the same box design for decades. Up until rack and pinion became the standard, I guess.
Had crazy toe-in that I had to fix today, won't get an official alignment until Wednesday probably.
Also advanced the timing a bit and put larger metering rods in it to lean it out. Hopefully should see some MPG improvements with that. And hopefully it'll be a good tune for when I go out to Utah so I don't have to fiddle with it on the side of the highway.
LOL @ MPG improvements........
For a mild V8 it's getting mileage more akin to a hopped up V8. I'd be happy with 15-16 mpg instead of 10-12...
Since I'll be going to Nashville for carshow/autocross this weekend I decided to do all sorts of things that if not completed make my car undriveable. Genius, right?
Replaced the power steering pump today, which ended up being a pain since the reservoir from the pump I bought (from an '88 Monte Carlo) won't fit. So I had to go back to AutoZone and get my stock reservoir off the bad pump in the middle of the store. But it's all on, now I can finally eat dinner at 9:30 at night. Good thing, since I'm going to the tire store at 8 am tomorrow.
Yesterday the car was running like dog doodoo and I couldn't figure out why. Wasn't showing signs of a botched carb tune or timing, which were the obvious answers since I was messing with that stuff the day before. Took forever but finally figured out the #6 cylinder wasn't firing because the plug wire had popped off a little bit. :facepalm: Runs beautifully now.
After much trial and tribulation, BIG THINGS ARE HERE!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/ty4ebu7u.jpg)
Looks great! :cheers:
Quote from: hotrodalex on May 14, 2014, 10:53:16 AM
After much trial and tribulation, BIG THINGS ARE HERE!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/ty4ebu7u.jpg)
Seems you made the right choice :ohyeah:.
From the back
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/hy2yduqy.jpg)
$1743.82 to get 18" versions of the old wheels. :lol:
Tapped a few cones on the autocross... (Only knocked one down)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/20/5uma3e3a.jpg)
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4479462870.html (http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4479462870.html)
Wheels sold for $375 only 9 hours after I put them on craigslist. Apparently I should have priced them higher (listed at $450) since I got a text earlier in the day (offering to trade for a handgun, no) and three phone calls while I was eating dinner. Was expecting it would take longer than that.
I am a huge fan of pricing things cheaply. Sells much much faster.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/3etusu4e.jpg)
Got the parking brake working, for now. I think the front cable stretched out, put some spacers on it and it works now. Will probably snap somewhere down the line, so I'll get a new one soon.
Wired up a headlight warning buzzer so I won't leave the parking lights on like a dummy. Also replaced the headlight switch itself - it decided to wear out this month and wouldn't turn on the gauge lights without a lot of twisting and pulling and such. New one works fantastic and gauge lights are actually bright enough to see now.
Got my car weighed today - 3,673 lbs total (with 1/4 tank of gas, a few tools in the bed)
front - 2,036 total
left front - 1,024
right front - 1,012
rear - 1,637 total
left rear - 805
right rear - 832
front percentage - 55.43%
rear percentage - 44.57%
Interesting that my left front corner is heavier - battery is on the right side. Also very happy with the weight distribution front/rear. It appears that the rumor that El Caminos have better distribution than Chevelle coupes is true.
What type of finish is that on the car. Is it a urethane semi-gloss or flat?
I'm curious about how well it cleans up, like those cone marks and stuff like that.
Kinda like a urethane.
Cleans up fine with soap and water. Can't really use a quick finish spray or anything, since it doesn't have a clearcoat and pulls fibers off the cloth sometimes. So if it's dirty it gets a bath.
what about scratches? you cant polish it so do they just accumulate?
Yeah not a whole lot you can do. It's pretty tough though so you don't have to worry about it quite as much.
cool, the cone thing just got me thinking about it.
I took a rag with some polish on it to clean up my evo before I sold it. Took about 20 minutes of rubbing to get all the scuffs and marks out on the rockers and lower doors.
I guess with the black finish they might not stand out so bad.
I've also learned to just accept some things. :lol:
The rear window leaks, only option to fix it seems to be take it to a glass shop and have them reinstall it. But I'm kind of nervous to do that - not sure what they will find, if it will be impossible to put back on or something.
Want to swap to a transmission with a decent overdrive at some point, was thinking either a T-5 or T-56. Just found a way to add an overdrive to my Saginaw, however.
http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/overdrive.htm (http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/overdrive.htm)
Will have to decide which option is easiest and most cost effective. With the current rear end gears (3.08), I'd be spinning at 2100 rpm at 75 mph. :lol: Will probably change that to 3.43 or 3.73.
I think I'm going to do my exhaust sometime this month. What mufflers should I go with? Flowmaster 40 series delta flow is a safe choice, but anything else I should consider? Want something that sounds cool and has moderate volume, but obviously no open headers since it's a driver.
Also, x pipe or h pipe?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-17119/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/el-camino (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-17119/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/el-camino)
That's one option.
Not sure if I want to do it myself or take it to a shop. I'll have to get a quote from some local places.
I prefer magnaflow. I don't like the Flowmaster baffling system.
It's nice for longevity however.
I like Magnaflow's sound on new Mustangs, not sure if it would fit my car as well. Kinda hard to tell since I'd have to find a car with the same engine setup to really know...
Also, I think it might be a better idea to hold off on exhaust and install a Posi this month, maybe new exhaust at the end of summer. Thoughts? Posi would be a performance gain, exhaust is mainly just fun noise. And it already sounds decent.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 14, 2014, 02:07:14 PM
It's nice for longevity however.
I like Magnaflow's sound on new Mustangs, not sure if it would fit my car as well. Kinda hard to tell since I'd have to find a car with the same engine setup to really know...
Also, I think it might be a better idea to hold off on exhaust and install a Posi this month, maybe new exhaust at the end of summer. Thoughts? Posi would be a performance gain, exhaust is mainly just fun noise. And it already sounds decent.
Longevity?
As long as it doesn't sound like a hillbilly truck (sloppy blap-blap-blap exhaust note) I'm sure the exhaust is fine.
Baffles don't burn out.
Magnaflows are packed with stainless steel. How does that burn out?
Hmm I thought I had heard something about them wearing out but quick googling shows that to be untrue.
Looked at Gear Vendors to see what they had instead of trying to find a Saginaw 3 speed. Well for one, they only make tail housings for T-10s and Muncies (in the GM 4 speed category), and they cost $2900. LOL I'll just get a T-56 for that price.
I think they make bellhousings for an SBC to T5, don't they?
T5's ought to be common.
I'll probably end up going that route. I don't really need the two extra gears of a T-56 and I think a T-5 will fit with less work. I was just reviewing my options to see if it was possible to keep the current transmission. I know most guys hate on Saginaws, but I've had no problems with it.
I should get a Roadster Shop chassis. Anyone want to help fund it? :lol:
http://roadstershop.com/chassis/chevelle-chassis/ (http://roadstershop.com/chassis/chevelle-chassis/)
Got the electric fans mounted today - way easier than I thought it would be. Two aluminum L-brackets bolted to existing holes on top of the radiator and then booted through the fans. Bottom is just secured with two zip ties (because redneck) to keep it from flopping around.
Hella airflow from these babies. It's a popular mod for Chevelles for good reason - easy fit and 4000 cfm for $100. No way you're overheating even stuck in traffic in 100 degree weather.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/29/ugepy8en.jpg)
Just need to finish up the wiring. Also replacing the distributor wire since it's the original one meant for points.
They work perfectly! Turn on at 185F and off at 165F. Pretty quiet, can't really hear them inside the car with the radio off. The engine sounds better at higher rpm now since before I didn't have a fan shroud and it was just all WOOOOOOSH from the engine bay.
With fans running, headlights on, and stereo going, voltage drops to around 12. Have a better alternator (with internal regulator!) to put in soon that will help out, plus can do some other various electrical upgrades.
Nice install, pretty clean looking wiring work too.
:lol:
Thanks. :thumbsup:
It's cleaned up now.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on June 28, 2014, 07:03:27 PM
Nice install, pretty clean looking wiring work too.
:lol:
:lol:
Are those Taurus fans?
Windstar or whatever 90s Ford minivan
When I drive to work (5:30 am) the front driver's side wheel makes a squeak squeak squeak above 35 mph. But when I come home at 2:30 pm, nothing. It's tire speed related, not engine speed. Slamming on my brakes doesn't fix it, nor does putting slight pressure on the pedal while driving. Pads have plenty of life in them. Wheel bearing wiggle test shows no problem. Visual check of everything doesn't find anything out of place. My sway bar squeaks a little bit, but that's bump related not speed related. Any ideas? Might try to get a video of it tomorrow.
Family of robins.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 30, 2014, 02:51:21 PM
When I drive to work (5:30 am) the front driver's side wheel makes a squeak squeak squeak above 35 mph. But when I come home at 2:30 pm, nothing. It's tire speed related, not engine speed. Slamming on my brakes doesn't fix it, nor does putting slight pressure on the pedal while driving. Pads have plenty of life in them. Wheel bearing wiggle test shows no problem. Visual check of everything doesn't find anything out of place. My sway bar squeaks a little bit, but that's bump related not speed related. Any ideas? Might try to get a video of it tomorrow.
The difference between 5:30 am and 2:30 pm is moisture. It may be related.
Quote from: FoMoJo on June 30, 2014, 07:11:17 PM
The difference between 5:30 am and 2:30 pm is moisture. It may be related.
And temperature. Haven't been able to think of what would be affected by those and make that noise, though.
Also, blew the relay for my fans tonight. Gonna need to wire it differently (thinking a 3 relay system to spread out the load)
Sway bar.......
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 30, 2014, 07:29:02 PM
And temperature. Haven't been able to think of what would be affected by those and make that noise, though.
Also, blew the relay for my fans tonight. Gonna need to wire it differently (thinking a 3 relay system to spread out the load)
Rhythmic or irregular?
Rhythmic
Swap the front wheels. See if it makes any difference.
This morning was a scorching hot 75 degrees so no noise or video of said noise.
Got a quote from an exhaust shop - $550 for Flowmasters and an H pipe. Might drop it off tomorrow.
Decided against the exhaust because I was going to upgrade the transmission to a TKO and a hydraulic clutch. But I don't think that's worth the money either - $2500-3000 and it would save me gas money, but would take like 4 years to break even.
So with that, I'm back to upgrading to a posi. I think my rearend is 3.36, not 3.08 like I previously thought. GPS speedometer tells me 70 mph at 3000 rpm with 26.2" tires. So I think that's a good ratio, would just need to install the posi. Can put in a larger cam to get more HP and acceleration down low instead of changing the gears. :lol:
Found some aluminum heads for like $350. Might get them. Would just need a little port & polish. That + cam would be fantastic and would also bump up my compression into a better range for an x-pipe on the exhaust.
Second gen Camaros have braces going from the fender to the radiator clip. Had a pair in the garage from my dad's car, so went ahead and drilled some holes and put them on mine. Because racecar. I think I notice a little bit of a difference - car crashes a bit less over bumps.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/08/9atyjy4u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/08/ura9ejar.jpg)
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 06, 2014, 08:29:55 AM
Found some aluminum heads for like $350.
:| GM junk is soooo cheap...
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 07, 2014, 02:06:35 PM
Second gen Camaros have braces going from the fender to the radiator clip. Had a pair in the garage from my dad's car, so went ahead and drilled some holes and put them on mine. Because racecar. I think I notice a little bit of a difference - car crashes a bit less over bumps.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/08/9atyjy4u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/08/ura9ejar.jpg)
That thing is such a wet noodle that sadly those bars probably do make a difference. Hell a couple extra coats of paint probably would have stiffened it up even more.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on July 09, 2014, 02:20:02 PM
That thing is such a wet noodle that sadly those bars probably do make a difference. Hell a couple extra coats of paint probably would have stiffened it up even more.
I'm trying to find a cowl brace (going from the control arm mount to the cowl/firewall, with a cross brace), which would probably do 100x more. They make them for Camaros but I haven't had any luck finding one for an A-body.
Also want to put some braces in the rear.
If you're thinking of replacing a front parking brake cable, DON'T. Huge PITA.
It does work better now, at least. But now I have to touch up the paint on the front edge of the door since the install involved unbolting part of the fender and inner fender well, and the fender shifted and scraped the door. :facepalm:
Also swapped the speedometer cable gear since it was wrecked and speedo has read 0 since last week. New one has one less tooth, so it'll be slightly more accurate.
Speedo cable needs more cleaning - wiggles a lot. Reads 60 mph @ 70, so need to order a gear with a few less teeth. Don't really care about the speedo, but having an accurate odometer would be nice to track gas mileage.
Found a pair of ceramic coated headers for like $150, but they're medium length instead of long tube. Says that they might get in the way of the clutch linkage. Hmmm.
Hydraulic clutch kits can be had for $580 (maybe cheaper, that's just one of the first ones I've found).
Nothing is ever simple. :lol:
What is the advantage of a Hydraulic clutch?
Well it would get rid of the mechanical linkage. Might also be a bit smoother, dunno.
I think I'm just gonna skip the headers and keep the rusty ones. Less money, don't have to go through the annoyance and installing headers again.
You don't know why you want to spend $580? Send some of that money my way, I'll use it for disc brakes on the Corvette.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 21, 2014, 09:51:28 AM
You don't know why you want to spend $580?
Because racecar.
I'm not gonna buy it. Just had to make the decision now, since I might do my clutch by the end of August. Right now I'm planning my next ~10 upgrades to figure out which order they need to be done in.
Racecar eh? What class? Where's your suit? Where's your cage? :evildude:
The streets ain't got no class, bruh.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 21, 2014, 09:51:28 AM
You don't know why you want to spend $580? Send some of that money my way, I'll use it for disc brakes on the Corvette.
Wait why are you now throwing money at this thing when the frame is rusted out?
Well technically that'd be throwing someone else's money at it, which is never a bad idea.
I've cleaned and greased the speedometer cable three times now and it still wiggles. Thinking maybe the gear in the transmission is wrecked. Ugh.
That's not that hard to pull out. Replacements are cheap too.
The tachometer on the Corvette is a bouncy SOB, but I think that's due to the sharp angle of the cable. They sell a right angle adapter for tachometer and speedometer cables to reduce the angularity.
I mean the one in the tailshaft, not the plastic one. I wish it was that one.
Uh, in the battle between hardened steel and plastic, I think hardened steel wins. :lol:
Is it even possible to screw up those teeth?
The plastic one was chewed up when I replaced it the other day. But what would cause that? Original thought was the cable was getting caught up and thus greasing it would solve the problem (along with a new gear), but obviously not. Not surprising, since the cable was never an issue before and the speedo just quit working altogether while driving to Columbus last week, not bouncing or wiggling noticed. So my best guess now would be something inside the transmission is goofed up.
What about the speedo itself?
Spins fine.
Try a new cable first. Pulling the trans would not be easy and I just don't see how those teeth on the shaft could be chewed up.
Got rid of the eye-shadow on one side. Should I do the rest?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/23/uba9e8up.jpg)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-101-10017/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-101-10017/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle)
Gonna order these. Should increase spindle height 0.9" and change the camber curve to give me negative camber as suspension is compressed. Obvious cornering benefits to that, plus might help the rubbing issue over bumps.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/tallballjoint1_zps045187fc.jpg)
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x253/calfan5/tallballjoint2_zps506f5954.jpg)
They're not available for the Vette. Dang.
Your tailshaft may have a plastic gear on it.
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=180289&d=1138490381.jpg)
If so, consider yourself fucked. :thumbsup:
Yep I'm pretty sure it's plastic in the tail shaft as well. Yay engineering.
Yay Borg Warner! Ours is metal. :ohyeah:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/27/yqaravy9.jpg)
Relay panel for electric fans and headlights.
Put in the new alternator with internal regulator today. It's mostly in, just a few more wiring things to do.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/27/eve4uje4.jpg)
All in, car starts. :rockon:
Headlights are brighter woohoo. Have more voltage woohoo. Have less hot wires woohoo.
The back end is uneven, with the passenger side lower than the driver's. Figured it was the frame, but measured the shock lengths today and the passenger side was 1" shorter. Switched the springs and it didn't seem to help. Ideas???
That side came out a bit heavier, but not enough for a 1" difference.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 29, 2014, 06:21:18 PM
The back end is uneven, with the passenger side lower than the driver's. Figured it was the frame, but measured the shock lengths today and the passenger side was 1" shorter. Switched the springs and it didn't seem to help. Ideas???
That side came out a bit heavier, but not enough for a 1" difference.
Is this something new or you just noticed it?
I've known about it for years, but like I said I figured it was a twisted frame and wasn't gonna worry about it (already took it to the frame shop and got it fixes as good as possible). So this is actually fantastic news since suspension is an easy fix.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 29, 2014, 06:21:18 PM
The back end is uneven, with the passenger side lower than the driver's. Figured it was the frame, but measured the shock lengths today and the passenger side was 1" shorter. Switched the springs and it didn't seem to help. Ideas???
That side came out a bit heavier, but not enough for a 1" difference.
You took the shocks off, and the extended length were an inch off? Are these twin tubes or monotubes?
Either way, one inch difference in extended length shouldn't affect your ride height.
No the compressed length is an inch different. Extended is the same.
Unloaded spring height seemed a bit different, with the passenger side being slightly higher, but obviously wasn't a problem since I swapped them and didn't see a difference.
I also unbolted the sway bar just in case is was preloaded and pulling the one side down, but that also didn't seem to do anything.
Would a bent trailing arm affect it?
How did you measure compressed length on the shocks?
Bolt to bolt while laying under the car.
The front is okay?
Yup.
Kinda sounds like the frame has a bit of a twist. Switching the springs with no difference would indicate that the suspension is okay. If you weight one side so that the back is even and the front is still even, or not...
Put sand bags in the drivers seat to simulate your weight and see how close it is.
Can I just have my dad sit in it? :lol:
Sure.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/1964-1972-a-body-coolride-rear-system.html (http://www.ridetech.com/store/1964-1972-a-body-coolride-rear-system.html)
Only $400 and maybe fix the problem? I'm not sure, could potentially disrupt the front if I raise one corner. Maybe I'll try to fit a spacer on the regular coil spring and see if it fixes the problem, then upgrade to air if it does.
Of course the springs are $400 but a compressor to change height on the fly is $1000. Guess I could just do it with the one in the garage and leave it be.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 30, 2014, 08:17:22 AM
http://www.ridetech.com/store/1964-1972-a-body-coolride-rear-system.html (http://www.ridetech.com/store/1964-1972-a-body-coolride-rear-system.html)
Only $400 and maybe fix the problem? I'm not sure, could potentially disrupt the front if I raise one corner. Maybe I'll try to fit a spacer on the regular coil spring and see if it fixes the problem, then upgrade to air if it does.
Of course the springs are $400 but a compressor to change height on the fly is $1000. Guess I could just do it with the one in the garage and leave it be.
Don't you need a compressor and other doodads to go along with those?
You don't want to ride around on bags without a way of inflating them on the vehicle.
Sounds like a bent frame or an uneven loading. Shocks aren't affecting this at all, and if you switched the springs to the other side and still have the problem, the springs aren't the issue either. Are you sure the thing is balanced side to side? I highly doubt it is. i don't know what your spring rate or suspension ratio is in the rear, but I don't think an inch difference side to side is drastic enough to rule out weight distribution as the cause.
See a couple of pages back for weight distribution. Something like 30 pounds more on that side. That's enough for about 1/10" difference...
If the springs use a regular valve stem for inflation I could use the same portable compressor we have for tires. Maybe.
I've wanted bags in the back for a while, but I was unaware that Ridetech sold those type of springs (thought it was all the more expensive shockwaves) so put it off for a few years. Would be nice to have for when I want to put stuff in the bed. Right now the rear is a little higher than I'd like, just for practical purposes. Can't have it riding low on regular springs and expect to pack up all my possessions in the back and drive across the country without scraping off my bumper. But air bags would allow for that. And if they could fix the unevenness, that'd be a no brainer. So I just have to figure that out.
If the frame is bent and I used the bags to even it out, would it affect the front? Or is it too hard to know without trying.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 30, 2014, 12:35:29 PM
See a couple of pages back for weight distribution. Something like 30 pounds more on that side. That's enough for about 1/10" difference...
If the springs use a regular valve stem for inflation I could use the same portable compressor we have for tires. Maybe.
You can use a bicycle hand pump with a long hose if you have to.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 30, 2014, 12:41:55 PM
If the frame is bent and I used the bags to even it out, would it affect the front? Or is it too hard to know without trying.
It would affect something.
This website has them for $300.
http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/RideTech-by-Air-Ride/Air-Suspension-Kits/Chevrolet-El-Camino-RideTech-CoolRide-Rear-Air-Spring-&-Bracket-_-Kit-_-11224099/868135/ (http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/RideTech-by-Air-Ride/Air-Suspension-Kits/Chevrolet-El-Camino-RideTech-CoolRide-Rear-Air-Spring-&-Bracket-_-Kit-_-11224099/868135/)
and $309 on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/RideTech-11224099-CoolRide-Rear-Suspension/dp/B005JVE9NE (http://www.amazon.com/RideTech-11224099-CoolRide-Rear-Suspension/dp/B005JVE9NE)
Tempting, even if it doesn't actually fix the issue. :lol:
Need to go look at the portable compressor and see what its max PSI rating is.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 31, 2014, 07:53:50 PM
This website has them for $300.
http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/RideTech-by-Air-Ride/Air-Suspension-Kits/Chevrolet-El-Camino-RideTech-CoolRide-Rear-Air-Spring-&-Bracket-_-Kit-_-11224099/868135/ (http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/RideTech-by-Air-Ride/Air-Suspension-Kits/Chevrolet-El-Camino-RideTech-CoolRide-Rear-Air-Spring-&-Bracket-_-Kit-_-11224099/868135/)
and $309 on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/RideTech-11224099-CoolRide-Rear-Suspension/dp/B005JVE9NE (http://www.amazon.com/RideTech-11224099-CoolRide-Rear-Suspension/dp/B005JVE9NE)
Tempting, even if it doesn't actually fix the issue. :lol:
Need to go look at the portable compressor and see what its max PSI rating is.
Well over what you'd need for an airbag. If it's good enough for tires, it's more than enough for airbags.
Well Tire Discounters can go fuck themselves. Can't get a lug nut off, the stud is spinning. So they'll get to fix that. Of course most of me doesn't even want them touching it again. This is what happens when other people touch my car. Never going to them again, already was fed up with them when I got the wheels on and they aligned it to stock specs instead of what I told them and had them re-do it. (No, I don't want 1 degree of positive camber and no caster)
Waited two hours and they didn't look at it yet. Left it there overnight.
They followed me on Twitter after I mentioned them. :lol: Told me to send them a message, not gonna bother unless it doesn't get fixed tomorrow.
All fixed. They ordered a new set of lug nuts, but I brought in same spares (that don't match) so I could drive it in the mean time.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 01, 2014, 05:32:59 PM
Waited two hours and they didn't look at it yet. Left it there overnight.
They followed me on Twitter after I mentioned them. :lol: Told me to send them a message, not gonna bother unless it doesn't get fixed tomorrow.
LOL, simple mechanical problems are now apparently also social network/public relations problems as well. Can't say if that's good bad, or just a waste of bandwidth: but it sure is bizarre.
Well simple mechanical problems are a public relations problem if they get out there. Don't blame em.
Will do the clutch sometime in the next week, so I'll also pull the tailshaft and replace the speedometer gear. Only one problem - apparently there are also multiple different options for the # of gears for that one too. And I have no idea what number is currently in it, but want to order it now so I don't have to wait... blahhhhh
I think I found the problem.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/ady7atap.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/vuhaqapa.jpg)
Flywheel bolts and clutch springs were hitting. Not sure if that's just due to wear or what (possibly flywheel has been resurfaced too much and is too thin)
Autozone doesn't have a 10.4" clutch/pressure plate kit that shows up when I search for a '69 Chevelle. But the flywheel option they give me is for a 10.4". :facepalm: But if I change the engine to a '69 w/ 5.0L 4 barrel carb, it shows up. :rolleyes: Have to order it, not in stock. :rolleyes:
Unless someone wants to send me a larger bellhousing to fit an 11" clutch.
LOL and for the '69 5.0L, the flywheel it gives me is for an 11" clutch! This system is seriously a mess. Good job, Autozone. Way to mis-match literally every single part.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 09, 2014, 12:19:59 PM
Autozone doesn't have a 10.4" clutch/pressure plate kit that shows up when I search for a '69 Chevelle. But the flywheel option they give me is for a 10.4". :facepalm: But if I change the engine to a '69 w/ 5.0L 4 barrel carb, it shows up. :rolleyes: Have to order it, not in stock. :rolleyes:
Unless someone wants to send me a larger bellhousing to fit an 11" clutch.
I could but it's cast iron
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on August 09, 2014, 01:06:37 PM
I could but it's cast iron
If I'm going to put something heavier on, I'd prefer 24k gold.
I got a 1/2" spacer for the rear passenger spring. It's a 1-1 ratio for spacers in the rear. Still isn't totally level, but all I've done is bounce the car a bit. Need to drive it and then see where it sits.
Clutch is gonna get here Wednesday, I think. In the mean time, I put on the new ball joints. Got a tool from Harbor Freight that made it super easy to get the old ones to pop out of the spindle. Which saved me, since I seem to have a stomach flu and wouldn't have finished if it was as much of a pain as it has been in the past. Alignment still looks decent, gained a bit of positive camber and toe at ride height but it will just need a shim or two.
Still need to pull the tailshaft and count the threads on the speedometer gear so I can get that ordered.
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFf
I cracked the side cover.
Two on ebay, fastest I can get it is like next Wednesday. I was supposed to be leaving on Tuesday. FML.
Drove an hour each way and got another Saginaw for $150. Will steal the side cover and put it on mine, then find another side cover and sell this one eventually.
It's all put back together. Pressure plate is a lot lighter than before, blahh. Having some minor issues with the throwout bearing and clutch fork adjustment. It makes noise like it's barely touching the pressure plate when the pedal is resting. A little bit of pressure makes it go away. Tried adjusting the z-bar to move the engagement point further down the pedal travel, but that didn't seem to work. Also figured out where the return spring is supposed to go (haven't had one on in years - didn't really need it with the heavy pressure plate), which helped pedal rattle but didn't completely solve the TB ticking.
No more chrome air cleaner.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/17/f0bf0192eca3e0dbab69e49940b39d45.jpg)
Wise choice
Electric choke is on.
Alignment specs are gonna be a bit worse than before - can't get as much caster with these ball joints. :cry: -0.5* camber and 2* caster compared to the previous alignment of -1.5* camber and 4* caster. Oh well, better camber curve should be worth it.
edit: Final specs says 4.5* caster... Dude must have figured out a way to get that after I went back to the waiting room.
You must like edelbrock.
What, it's just literally every part above the heads. :lol:
Dad is friends with the VP of sales and marketing, so yeah lots of parts from them.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 19, 2014, 08:38:29 PM
What, it's just literally every part above the heads. :lol:
Dad is friends with the VP of sales and marketing, so yeah lots of parts from them.
Does this mean you have the capability of obtaining discounts?
Only on Tuesdays.
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 19, 2014, 08:55:33 PM
Only on Tuesdays.
Dammit, and I'm only allowed to spend money on the car on Thursdays!
You considered changing to an RPM intake?
Not really. Next summer will probably be engine upgrade time - cam, maybe aluminum heads, maybe ceramic coated headers. Unless the current performer intake needs to be upgraded to work with those upgrades, I probably won't bother.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60759
Oooh pretty.
Edit: I actually want the 64cc ones, though. Get dat high compression.
Utah speed bumps are header killers.
This can mean only one thing - car needs to be lower. :evildude:
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 25, 2014, 01:18:02 PM
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60759 (http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60759)
Oooh pretty.
Edit: I actually want the 64cc ones, though. Get dat high compression.
At what point do you need race gas?
That'd probably put me at 10.5:1
Quote from: hotrodalex on August 30, 2014, 09:26:42 PM
That'd probably put me at 10.5:1
I think that's where the Vette motor is supposed to be, but I doubt it is now.
There's no reason not to run 91-93 octane in the corvette, but I don't want detonation. I've read that up to 11:1 is OK.
You can't go by comp ratio alone with older engines. Combustion chamber design and the quality of your air/fuel mix and ignition factors in more as you go higher.
New speedometer cable is in, and it's spot-on accurate!
Also got a car cover - I park in an underground garage so it doesn't get wet, but it gets crazy dusty. And with satin black paint, I'd have to wash it every other day.
Also bought a baseball bat and tried to roll the fenders. Not sure if it's enough, I'll find out next time I drive it.
Fender rolling seems to have been effective.
Should I replace the high beams with amber low beams?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/wag-4412a
I can get hi-low beams to replace the low beams, but then I started wondering if I really need the high beams. I don't really use them. And it would save me work if I just replace the one set.
OK, well, first off, you do need your high beams. Second, you should replace the sealed beams with real headlamps. Hella makes a decent kit. Third, you never ever want amber on either the highs or the lows. The color you would want for probably the lows only is selective yellow. If you do that, it would be for style, and to retain the full functionality of the headlamps, you would probably want to increase the wattage of the bulb a bit to compensate for the filtering via the colored lamps, say 75 W lows. Yellow lamps, unless you're French, are really only good for fog lamps, and I'm not convinced of that, either.
Personally, I love the yellow lamp look, so I say go for it, but only if you can do it right.
Oh, also, those lamps you linked are only 35 W. Lows should be 55 W, highs 60 W, at minimum (though you should only go higher if you have good, low-mounted, sharp-cutoff lamps).
Yeah I wouldn't have only amber as low beams.
I'll have to look around for wiring kits. Don't want to take stuff apart too much since I'm not at home.
Come to Boise and I'll help. Lighting is fun!
Quote from: Rupert on September 26, 2014, 08:25:07 PM
OK, well, first off, you do need your high beams.
You probably think I need sunvisors too. :lol:
:huh:
Cool pics of the car can be seen in the photography forum:
http://www.carspin.net/index.php?topic=30990.0 (http://www.carspin.net/index.php?topic=30990.0)
Will photoshop a few of those to see if yellow fogs would look good.
Original:
(http://i.imgur.com/UatYGse.png)
Photoshopped:
(http://i.imgur.com/QgU50wU.png)
Me gusta.
Naww, skip the yellow
Are you French?
Do not like
Those are the high beams? Don't do it.
Quote from: Rupert on September 29, 2014, 04:18:59 PM
Those are the high beams? Don't do it.
That's where the high beams are now. Can be moved to a single hi-low outside light.
Oh, right, of course. Yes, do it with fogs there.
I mean, it's a terrible location for fogs, but since they're pretty pointless anyway... :lol:
There's no fog in this place anyway.
I have yellow fog lights on the 944 ( :wub: ), and they're just about totally useless. My regular low beams are low, have a high cutoff, and are 90W, though.
Pics?
I kinda like it.
(http://i.imgur.com/fpqFLSg.jpg)
Hey, get that Kraut crap outta here :erjerbs:
I should swap in a BMW 328i engine w/ CAI.
Haters gon' hate.
(http://i.imgur.com/WPN4xk5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9JbFXGN.jpg)
Cool. The outers are now high/low and the inners are ...?
To be honest, I could use these as high beams. They're aimed a little high right now and visibility is basically the same as the high beams, just a little more on the yellow side of the spectrum.
What's the pattern? That's the difference between highs, lows, fogs, etc.
Thought they had a pretty low cutoff but they seemed pretty spread. I'll have to find a good wall/garage door and get it all aimed nicely.
That's the worst part about modifying lights. Surprisingly hard to find a perfectly level place to park 25 ft from a wall.
What kit did you order? I need to get rid of the old dimmy dims before winter.
The ambers are Wagner 4412a. I haven't ordered H4 hi-lows since it appears I don't actually need them.
I had to do a little modification to the connections - they have a wide connection that wouldn't fit through the radiator support hole. So I just broke them off and re-soldered them (using a trusty Harbor Freight butane torch as a soldering iron, because faster).
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/14/d0de93bac75deef102466e5014979817.jpg)
Quote from: Rupert on October 09, 2014, 12:48:15 AM
That's the worst part about modifying lights. Surprisingly hard to find a perfectly level place to park 25 ft from a wall.
A little trigonometry and you can align headlights while parked inside your garage. Easy, just can't hamfist it.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 14, 2014, 04:53:11 PM
A little trigonometry and you can align headlights while parked inside your garage. Easy, just can't hamfist it.
Eh, true enough. Smaller adjustments have a larger effect at 25 ft, though, and many/most of the headlights I've tried to adjust have been kind of a finicky pain. Seems like you would be less likely to be accurate even if you were careful at 5-10 ft.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 14, 2014, 11:04:49 AM
What kit did you order? I need to get rid of the old dimmy dims before winter.
Hella makes kits, and IMO they're the minimum you want. Not too expensive relative to the really good stuff.
Quote from: Rupert on October 14, 2014, 07:41:09 PM
Hella makes kits, and IMO they're the minimum you want. Not too expensive relative to the really good stuff.
Most of the Hella kits I found weren't DOT certified. Dunno if that's just crappy internet searching.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 14, 2014, 11:13:59 AM
The ambers are Wagner 4412a. I haven't ordered H4 hi-lows since it appears I don't actually need them.
I had to do a little modification to the connections - they have a wide connection that wouldn't fit through the radiator support hole. So I just broke them off and re-soldered them (using a trusty Harbor Freight butane torch as a soldering iron, because faster).
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/14/d0de93bac75deef102466e5014979817.jpg)
Are they amber or selective yellow?
BTW, if your "low" beam is so scattered that it might as well be a high beam, then the lamp is pretty terrible quality and you're blinding other drivers.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 14, 2014, 07:42:13 PM
Most of the Hella kits I found weren't DOT certified. Dunno if that's just crappy internet searching.
Oh no, you reeaalllly don't want a DOT certified kit. You want the E-code kit. Cops can't tell the difference unless they really really want to make trouble for you, and the E-codes are waaaay (way way) better.
Here, this link is a must read for anyone upgrading lighting (or really anyone stuck with sealed beams): http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html)
Quote from: Rupert on October 14, 2014, 07:40:06 PM
Eh, true enough. Smaller adjustments have a larger effect at 25 ft, though, and many/most of the headlights I've tried to adjust have been kind of a finicky pain. Seems like you would be less likely to be accurate even if you were careful at 5-10 ft.
Get out your transit, then. You may have to adjust your tire pressures and fuel level, though.
Quote from: Rupert on October 14, 2014, 07:43:11 PM
Are they amber or selective yellow?
BTW, if your "low" beam is so scattered that it might as well be a high beam, then the lamp is pretty terrible quality and you're blinding other drivers.
I think they're selective yellow. Not 100% sure since it's not specified anywhere.
It's not scattered, just the way I aimed them (pretty much dead-ahead). Even aimed that way, they don't seem blinding - less blinding than the white low beams that are aimed correctly. Makes sense, since yellow light isn't as harsh as blue/violet in the white light.
Get ecodes, Alex. You'll thank yourself later when you have night vision.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 14, 2014, 07:55:19 PM
I think they're selective yellow. Not 100% sure since it's not specified anywhere.
It's not scattered, just the way I aimed them (pretty much dead-ahead). Even aimed that way, they don't seem blinding - less blinding than the white low beams that are aimed correctly. Makes sense, since yellow light isn't as harsh as blue/violet in the white light.
Well, if they aren't as blinding as the regular lows, then they aren't bright enough!
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 14, 2014, 07:42:13 PM
Most of the Hella kits I found weren't DOT certified. Dunno if that's just crappy internet searching.
No DOT certified fog light kit is going to be worth a tinker's dam.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on October 14, 2014, 10:46:26 PM
No DOT certified fog light kit is going to be worth a tinker's dam.
For regular hi-low I'd prefer something certified. DOT, E-code, whatever.
My sealed beam low beams are actually pretty decent now after I upgraded the wiring. Never have trouble seeing at night.
Yes, you need need need to use certified lights. Otherwise they're probably dangerous to other drivers or yourself. However, the DOT specifications are much different and much worse than the ECE (E-code) specs. Less defined cutoffs and more scattered light are specified as part of the DOT.
Like I said, you should read Daniel Stern before upgrading lights.
I did more light testing. Definitely aimed at the ground 20-25 feet in front, blinding brightness if you stick your head on the ground. But they still produce enough light far away to work as decent high beams without blinding other drivers. Best of both worlds! Magic lights.
I've gotta figure out a lighting solution myself. Headlights glassed in behind the grille don't work well.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 18, 2014, 11:12:05 PM
I did more light testing. Definitely aimed at the ground 20-25 feet in front, blinding brightness if you stick your head on the ground. But they still produce enough light far away to work as decent high beams without blinding other drivers. Best of both worlds! Magic lights.
No, despite what you might think, either the lows are too dispersed to be good lows or they don't produce enough light to be good highs. Daniel Stern.
I have regular low beams for that. But now I have cool yellow lights that work decently well for high beams without blinding oncoming cars. Magic lights.
Daniel Stern!
Damn gremlins are out to get me this week.
First was the exhaust leak. I'm sure that was my fault for taking the car off road and scraping the headers on rocks.
Second was a weird smell - diagnosed as a loose alternator belt thanks to the dummy light on the dash that came on at idle, went away with revs.
Now the things won't start. Carb has absolutely no gas in it, fuel filter looks empty. So I guess the fuel pump decided to take a break. :rage:
Nah that can't be it, fuel pressure is fine and the small leak on the carb inlet has a little bit of fresh gas on it.. But carb squirts no gas with throttle.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 25, 2014, 01:07:29 PM
Nah that can't be it, fuel pressure is fine and the small leak on the carb inlet has a little bit of fresh gas on it.. But carb squirts no gas with throttle.
That would be a problem with the accelerator pump. Or something else.
Bang on it, is your float stuck up?
Is your bowl full?
Nah it's empty
Fix ur float bowl.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 25, 2014, 01:19:42 PM
Nah it's empty
Rub a tube through your vent hole and pump fuel in by hand, just like Richard Hammond did with his water pump.
Genius
Pull the carb off yet?
No.
It has spark. It has fuel at the fuel inlet. Not squirting from the accelerator pumps. But it also won't start with starting fluid. Wtf.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 25, 2014, 10:02:03 PM
No.
It has spark. It has fuel at the fuel inlet. Not squirting from the accelerator pumps. But it also won't start with starting fluid. Wtf.
What did you do?
He didn't pull off the carb, I can tell you that.
I just pulled the top off. Float bowls are full, floats and needles aren't stuck. Pulled the accelerator pump off, blew through it and made sure it wasn't clogged. Put it all back together, the accelerator pumps now squirt fuel. Still won't start.
Put a paper clip in the #4 spark plug wire twice now, sparked both times.
Fuel, spark, battery is now almost dead. Poor guy is strong as an ox but after a total of probably 30 minutes of cranking w/ no recharge, it's getting low.
Gonna hope it magically solves itself overnight. Maybe it's just flooded a bit now. I tried holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking and that didn't help, but at this point it's my only guess.
On the plus side, I was tinkering with this during the whole party so lots of cute ladies saw me and my sexy car and want to jump my bones now.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 25, 2014, 11:41:06 PM
On the plus side, I was tinkering with this during the whole party so lots of cute ladies saw me and my sexy car and want to jump my bones now.
If you can get the thing running, you might be able to pick one, or all of them up and take them to make-out-point.
Ohqueso, you have fuel and spark. But how is the timing? You said starting fluid won't even fire it up. Have you had any funny noises? Is there vacuum when you crank it? How many dirty shop rags did you leave in the intake plenum? How is your timing chain/distributor drive/do a compression check.
So, did it start yet? Any noise at all?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 26, 2014, 06:35:11 AM
If you can get the thing running, you might be able to pick one, or all of them up and take them to make-out-point.
Can probably fit like 12 in the bed.
Distributor cap is tight, firing order is correct. Won't really be able to tell timing until it starts...
Don't know how it could lose compression overnight.
All spark plug wires are connected.
Compression? Does it sound like normal effort for the starter to turn it over? Does the exhaust smell like raw gas? Don't blow it up.
Turning over is normal.
I got a spark checker light thingy and it was pretty weak. Pulled the distributor cap off and the terminals are kinda corroded. Gonna order a new one. (Stupid auto part stores don't have any in stock)
They don't have a small block Chevy V8 distributor cap?!
No HEI caps in store. Pep Boys website says they do, but they lied.
Actually ordering from Jegs because free shipping.
Oh fancy pants HEI.
HEI caps are a dime a dozen at any parts store wtf.
Including internal coil, no. I don't want to change the wiring.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 26, 2014, 03:19:48 PM
Including internal coil, no. I don't want to change the wiring.
Dude, its like three wires
Six, including tach wires. And I'd have to mount the coil. Why do all that when I can just get the exact same thing in the mail tomorrow?
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 26, 2014, 03:41:36 PM
Six, including tach wires. And I'd have to mount the coil. Why do all that when I can just get the exact same thing in the mail tomorrow?
Oh, I wasnt saying you should change to an external coil. Jegs is good nuff
I cleaned off the terminals with a screw driver but that didn't work either. Hopefully the new cap actually works. Otherwise, compression test it is. Even though I can't think of one good reason that would change overnight.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 26, 2014, 03:57:42 PM
I cleaned off the terminals with a screw driver but that didn't work either. Hopefully the new cap actually works. Otherwise, compression test it is. Even though I can't think of one good reason that would change overnight.
Lack of compression doesn't make sense. Hairline crack in distributor.
:fogey:
If you still had points it would be running now.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on October 26, 2014, 04:06:00 PM
:fogey:
If you still had points it would be running now.
True. You can fix points with any combination of a toothpick, paperclip, and q-tip.
Points would be way more work over the long run. Electronic ignition is 100x better.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 26, 2014, 04:55:28 PM
Points would be way more work over the long run. Electronic ignition is 100x better.
But it doesn't start :huh:.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 26, 2014, 04:55:28 PM
Points would be way more work over the long run. Electronic ignition is 100x better.
Well, I chucked mine in the trash, but I didn't use HEI.
This cap and rotor has been good for at least 5 years, who knows how many before I bought the car. Haven't had to touch it until now, which wouldn't be the case with points.
Only getting 9.something volts while cranking. Gonna take the battery to auto zone and get it tested before switching distributor caps.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 27, 2014, 01:56:22 PM
Only getting 9.something volts while cranking. Gonna take the battery to auto zone and get it tested before switching distributor caps.
If I it's cranking the engine over, it is fine over 9-volts. 9-volts should be enough to power your primary ignition circuit. Don't chase your tail here.
Have you checked your tailpipes for potatoes? There should be no more than 4.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on October 27, 2014, 06:18:46 PM
Have you checked your tailpipes for potatoes? There should be no more than 4.
That number is dependent on the number of bananas also present.
Well I got a new battery since the old one failed a load test anyway. No luck.
Pulled a spark plug, it has plenty of compression. There is nothing in the exhaust.
This seriously makes no sense. Gas, spark, compression. WTF else is left.
Timing
But how would that suddenly get all screwy overnight? The distributor was tight.
Your magic HEI is fucked. I don't know.
Even with no fuel it should at least make an attempt to run on just starting fluid.
I really don't want to have to find TDC.
Would be nice to have a garage and another mechanically minded person around. AKA being back in Cincinnati.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/daf251a8c54a6424ada8001decbfda6e.jpg)
Right where it should be.
Rotor looks a little corroded.
I wasn't suggesting that the distributor moved, I'm thinking there may be an issue with the trigger or coil.
Well new cap and rotor should be here by the end of the week.
My LOLvo still cranked with really a horribly corroded rotor and cap. Hell it'd run too until you gave it a bit of gas.
Wired distributor directly to the battery, no luck.
Maybe a mouse climbed down your carburetor and ate your pistons.
Have you put a timing light on it? Are the plugs wet?
Timing light while cranking is kinda useless. The three spark plugs I've pulled seem fine.
Are they dry?
This is dumb but what is your choke set up for? Have you tried setting it tighter?
Choke has been in all possible positions. Closed, half closed, open.
I'll pull all the spark plugs and clean them off just for fun
I dunno how you do your wires, but have you double checked the firing order? If you go by last position maybe somebody popped your hood and goofed the wires around because they suck...? (who has a better idea :P)
Yeah I checked that
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 28, 2014, 10:20:01 PM
I dunno how you do your wires, but have you double checked the firing order? If you go by last position maybe somebody popped your hood and goofed the wires around because they suck...? (who has a better idea :P)
I don't know about you, but I feel like I could get this engine running in 5 minutes if I was there in person. :lol:
Internet armchair quarterback
jeez what's left...
Plugs might have a bit of gas on them, but they're not oil-wet.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on October 28, 2014, 10:23:22 PM
I don't know about you, but I feel like I could get this engine running in 5 minutes if I was there in person. :lol:
I will give you one million Schrute Bucks if you can do that for me.
Maybe a mouse gnawed through your timing chain.
Do any of the plugs stay wet after cranking?
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/28/92f20f41e93d1563ec3926e79a08ecbd.jpg)
If new cap/rotor/coil doesn't do it, I'm swapping in a 13b turbo.
Cmon man, these are the easier engines to work on ever. What are you missing?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 29, 2014, 06:54:39 AM
Cmon man, these are the easier engines to work on ever. What are you missing?
Ah crap the passenger side head was stolen.
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 29, 2014, 10:03:43 AM
Ah crap the passenger side head was stolen.
That doesn't matter
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=871532706212945&id=139271699439053
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 29, 2014, 10:03:43 AM
Ah crap the passenger side head was stolen.
Auto Zone has those in stock.
Uhh.... reluctor gap!
The hold-down isn't tight and the drive gear twisted it out of time when you cranked it!
A Smurf disconnects a ground wire when you hold the key!
Join the Quadrajunk club. Throw away your Holley or Carter.
Carb isn't the problem.
Well, then you've got an ignition problem there, bub.
Cap and rotor might be here today.
Do you have HEI? The HEI module ("4-pin module") is notorious for being hard to troubleshoot (other than swapping in a new one).
(http://chevellestuff.net/tech/images/hei01.jpg)
Replacing parts is a tough way to troubleshoot. You've confirmed you have spark but are you getting spark at the right time? Check for spark at the correct point in the cycle for a few different cylinders. If it's okay for a couple of cylinders it means the distributor is both rotating correctly and generating spark. If it's not okay check the distributor gear.
I found top dead center and the rotor is at the right position. (Actually I found 12* before TDC which is where my timing is supposed to be set)
I also looked at the rotor at TDC for the exhaust stroke and the rotor was 180* from firing cyl 1.
Considering it's a new engine (no more than 7000 miles on it), I doubt that problem is with parts that came new with the engine. The distributor was from the previous engine, so that's a good place to look.
280Z, thanks again for selling me that MSD out of the CRX a few years ago...
It was the Mazda. Does it still have the 9000 rpm pill?
Sho nuff I bang off that thing every day
WOOOOOOOOO AWH HELL YEAHHH WOOOOOOO!!!!!!
New cap, rotor, and coil = starts up right away. Finally. 5 days of madness have come to an end.
I just went and gave my Blaster II a smooch.
I'm at autozone getting a new alternator, I think that was the cause of all this and it blew my ignition coil.
You stop soaking with any babes lately? Maybe some clever sabotage
Quote from: 68_427 on October 29, 2014, 08:22:11 PM
You stop soaking with any babes lately? Maybe some clever sabotage
I think there are maybe 10 people in this city who could even figure out how to pop the hood.
I bet next time you'll check your secondary ignition voltage.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/01/bafccc1f17e7b3907456b81692dc6226.jpg)
Quote from: hotrodalex on October 29, 2014, 08:20:22 PM
I'm at autozone getting a new alternator, I think that was the cause of all this and it blew my ignition coil.
You sure it was the coil?
Quote from: FoMoJo on November 02, 2014, 07:25:48 AM
You sure it was the coil?
Cap and rotor didn't really look corroded enough to be the main source of the problem. Replace them anyway, but I'm pretty sure it was a roasted coil.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 02, 2014, 09:52:50 AM
Cap and rotor didn't really look corroded enough to be the main source of the problem. Replace them anyway, but I'm pretty sure it was a roasted coil.
Not to belabour it, but it may well have been as simple as a hairline crack in the distributor cap where the coil wire plugs in...or on the coil itself where the distributor wire plugs in...whereby moisture, from dew or simply being very humid, can seep in and ground out the charge. I've had this happen in the past on cars of that era...but never had a coil get roasted.
The alternator went bad the trip immediately before it wouldn't start so I'm assuming the problems were related
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 02, 2014, 12:50:33 PM
The alternator went bad the trip immediately before it wouldn't start so I'm assuming the problems were related
Reasonable assumption. I'd still want to know for sure.
My speedometer cable seems to be spinning inside the gauge and not hooking up fully. It only reads about half speed and I can hear it spinning in the gauge. Goes away after I've driven about 5 miles and the gauge reads normally without any issue.
Do I just need a new gauge?
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 06, 2014, 03:40:24 PM
My speedometer cable seems to be spinning inside the gauge and not hooking up fully. It only reads about half speed and I can hear it spinning in the gauge. Goes away after I've driven about 5 miles and the gauge reads normally without any issue.
Do I just need a new gauge?
Original gauge?
I think so.
Take it apart and fix it. It's a simple mechanism.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on November 06, 2014, 06:38:54 PM
Take it apart and fix it. It's a simple mechanism.
Wasn't sure if that was possible. Never messed with one before.
http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicchevy/37-32.pdf (http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicchevy/37-32.pdf)
When that happened on the Porsche, the whole stupid gauge cluster had to be replaced.
Unfortunately I don't think I can take the cluster out without taking the dash off. So first I'll try some WD-40 and/or little bit of tape on the end of the cable.
Quote from: Rupert on November 06, 2014, 08:03:12 PM
When that happened on the Porsche, the whole stupid gauge cluster had to be replaced.
Excuse for cool gauges!
Stock VDO are all I need.
Autometer American Muscle or Prestige Black Diamond might be cool. But $$$. In reality I'll just buy a stock replacement if needed.
Auto Zone has all the gauges you'll ever need. Speedometers are irrelevant since GPS.
(http://revlimiter.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/mlp1.jpg)
:rockon:
Quote from: 68_427 on November 07, 2014, 04:35:12 PM
(http://revlimiter.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/mlp1.jpg)
In five years, when the guy tries to sell that car, he's gonna have some 'splainin' to do.
Until then, that's both awesome/hilarious and sad/creepy.
Current goals:
- rear disc brake swap
- upgrade pads
- camshaft
- new heads, unsure if I want to go aluminum or just higher compression iron
- ceramic coat the headers
- new header-back exhaust
- posi/LSD
- maybe stiffer front springs
- adjustable shocks front/rear
Oh, and the speedometer didn't give me any issues while in Vegas. So the cable must shrink more than the hole when it's cold.
Yeah, blame it on shrinkage.
Plus a worn out thingamabob.
I'm not gonna tear apart the dash, so it'll just have to behave or I'll go back to not having a speedometer.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 10, 2014, 03:11:26 PM
Oh, and the speedometer didn't give me any issues while in Vegas. So the cable must shrink more than the hole when it's cold.
That sounds vaguely familiar, but I can't quite place from where.
lol
Changed the oil today and noticed a dent on the driver's side header. Stupid speed bumps around here are deadly. A good argument for switching to the ceramic coated mid-length headers that I found a deal on.
Meh, have had a few cars with headers. It's never been worth it. If I ever own a classic/muscle car again, it'll never have headers. If headers were built with the fit and robustness of a factory manifold, they'd, uh, pretty much look like a factory manifold.
I've never had a real trouble with them, and they do provide an advantage. (even moreso when you start upgrading cams and heads and such)
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1310-headers-dyno-test/ (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1310-headers-dyno-test/)
Ceramic coating seems to be a huge plus as well.
Well, now you've had trouble knocking one on a speed bump ;). They also tend to rust, warp, blow out gaskets and back out their bolts, and my biggest header pet peeve, add unpleasant under hood noise. For a street motor, the real advantage is sounds and looks, often times at the expense of real-world performance. For example, on a what is basically a stock motor in your car IIRC, put manifolds back on your car and you'll see an immediate improvement in part throttle and lower RPM performance, and equal if not better overall performance.
So let's look at the test you posted. From the smallest (which are pretty much a stone's throw from factory manifolds) to the largest the average power gain was only ~20 hp on a ~550 - 600 hp motor (5% gain) and note the smallest headers (er, proxy factory manifolds) make the most power/torque from ~3,600 - ~4,600 rpm. Also note that some of those larger headers don't look like they'd fit in the average street-driven car. Note this is a big block Chevy 427 that is fairly wild - roller cam, huge carb, single plane intake, ~7,000 rpm red line - so on a more average street motor 5% is maybe 10 hp, and with that you have all the headaches I've mentioned.
(http://image.hotrod.com/f/61441500+q80+re0+cr1+ar0/standard-corrected-power-chart-coated.jpg)
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 12, 2014, 11:03:23 PM
lol
Changed the oil today and noticed a dent on the driver's side header. Stupid speed bumps around here are deadly. A good argument for switching to the ceramic coated mid-length headers that I found a deal on.
How much clearance do you have? You're supposed to slow down when you go over them. That way you might not rebound so much right onto your headers.
Quote from: FoMoJo on November 16, 2014, 06:16:54 AM
How much clearance do you have? You're supposed to slow down when you go over them. That way you might not rebound so much right onto your headers.
~5 inches, maybe? I've never measured. Enough for any reasonable bump. Not enough for the silly curbs they try to pass off as speed bumps at some locations in Utah. For example, when I had the BMW out here the same speed bumps would scrape the side skirts under the rear doors. Both cars just crawling over them.
I have never regretted installing headers on any of my street driven vehicles. Long tube and ceramic coated is the way to go. The real nemesis here is the evil, header-destroyng, government speed bump. I can't believe coogs didn't point that out.
Auburn or Eaton posi?
Detroit Locker.
TrueTrac is probably the best option but apparently they don't make them to fit on a GM 8.2 axle.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 19, 2014, 09:16:12 PM
TrueTrac is probably the best option but apparently they don't make them to fit on a GM 8.2 axle.
Get a Ford 9"...be all set to drop in a big block then.
Except for the transmission and front suspension.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 20, 2014, 10:00:59 AM
Except for the transmission and front suspension.
All in good time. You have to start somewhere.
I'll be plenty happy with new heads and cam. Plenty of power and lighter.
What kind of heads were you thinking of?
Edelbrock Performer or equivalent. Just looking to bump up the compression, get slightly more flow, and take some weight off the front end.
Current cam:
.383''/.401'' Lift, 194°/202° Duration @ .050'', and 112° lobe separation
New cam sitting in garage (Performer Plus):
.420"/.442" Lift, 204°/214° Duration @ .050", and 112° lobe separation
Performer Heads:
Combustion chamber volume: 64cc
Intake runner volume: 185cc
Exhaust runner volume: 65cc
Intake valve diameter: 2.02"
Exhaust valve diameter: 1.60"
Valve stem diameter: 11/32"
Valve guides: Manganese Bronze
Deck thickness: 5/8"
Valve spring diameter: 1.46"
Valve spring maximum lift: .575"
Rocker stud: 3/8"
Guideplate: Hardened steel
Pushrod diameter: 5/16"
Valve angle: 23°
Exhaust port location: Stock
Spark plug fitment: 14mm x .750 reach, tapered seat
I wonder if they make an easy flathead conversion.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on November 20, 2014, 09:50:10 PM
I wonder if they make an easy flathead conversion.
That'll be good for a daily driver. I'll just install an extra water pump or two and put another radiator in the bed.
These might be a decent, cheaper option.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Tek-102505-Assembled-S-B-Chevy-Aluminum-Head-Straight-Plug,25118.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Tek-102505-Assembled-S-B-Chevy-Aluminum-Head-Straight-Plug,25118.html)
Intake flow numbers are a bit lower, but exhaust is better.
Does the Gen 3 bolt pattern fit your block? Never liked the looks of those siamese exhaust ports.
I don't think so. I have a Gen I block.
I have a 3.36 rear end at the moment. Should I get a higher numerical gear? Top gear is 1:1. I suppose eventually I could grab a 5 speed, but that won't happen until two summers from now at least. Would like to be able to cruise at ~75 while keeping revs under 3500 rpm. I think right now I can do 85 @ 3500 rpm.
You're gonna blow your manifolds at that rpm.
I wish my car would rev to 35k.
Quote from: Rupert on November 28, 2014, 08:20:18 PM
You're gonna blow your manifolds at that rpm.
Likely put the pushrods into orbit as well :lol:.
Lol that took me way too long to figure what you guys were going on about...
Anyway. Keep 3.36, swap to 3.55, or swap to 3.73 and be penalized on road trips?
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 29, 2014, 11:42:39 AM
Lol that took me way too long to figure what you guys were going on about...
Anyway. Keep 3.36, swap to 3.55, or swap to 3.73 and be penalized on road trips?
Keep ur damn rear gears. Either add more power, or swap in a T56.
I just washed it and redlined it many times on the way home. I'm happy with these gears. :lol:
I'd just get a TKO500, not a T56. Easier swap, less hacking up the tunnel. But with a new cam + heads, 3.36 gears, and a posi, it should be good. Just needed to decide on gears before I get the posi installed.
Aren't TKO anythings huge $$$$$$
Would probably be $3k all-in. I'm at the point where any upgrades I do are gonna be long-lasting and quality.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb186/MastMotorsports/LSX454StockHeads.jpg)
Final numbers.
Your unladen rear wheels cannot handle
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 28, 2014, 08:13:27 PM
I have a 3.36 rear end at the moment. Should I get a higher numerical gear? Top gear is 1:1. I suppose eventually I could grab a 5 speed, but that won't happen until two summers from now at least. Would like to be able to cruise at ~75 while keeping revs under 3500 rpm. I think right now I can do 85 @ 3500 rpm.
4.86 gears. Screw highways right?
QA1 has front coil overs that will mount just like regular shocks. Might buy them. Have to do more research on rear options.
Rear would require a bit of welding to change the top mount.
$1k overall in parts.
Trying to figure out what to do with the front - looking like I'll get those coilovers and swap spindles while I'm at it. I want to get rid of the drop spindles. The lower control arm has a drop pocket in it, so combined with the drop spindles it's too much (right now I'm running close to stock height springs plus a 1/4" spacer). I'd probably be close to the upper limit of the coilovers' adjustable range. Raise the car up by 2" and then use the coils to drop it 1.5" sounds perfect.
I thought about getting tall spindles (instead of just the tall ball joint I have now), but I can't seem to find any that are tall + stock ride height.
I can install the fronts by myself, just need to borrow a real jack from someone. Then I can do the rears whenever I feel like driving up to SLC to have a friend weld in the mounts.
Anyone have thoughts on single adjustable shocks vs. double?
Quote from: hotrodalex on January 29, 2015, 11:16:00 AM
Anyone have thoughts on single adjustable shocks vs. double?
Need brands and types of tech. Companies do it different ways.
QA1, monotube.
Since I only autocross it, I'm assuming single will be plenty.
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/brakes-suspension/qa1-shock-comparison-which-to-choose-single-vs-double-adjustable/ (http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/brakes-suspension/qa1-shock-comparison-which-to-choose-single-vs-double-adjustable/)
Quote from: hotrodalex on January 11, 2015, 11:38:56 PM
Rear would require a bit of welding to change the top mount.
$1k overall in parts.
$1125
Found a rear kit that is bolt-in.
I'm gonna be poor after this. Lol good thing I don't have a girlfriend.
Was thinking about getting new upper control arms. I have tubular ones already, but they aren't specially made for the tall ball joints that I installed, so I can't get quite as much caster out of them as I'd like. (I think I'm at 3-4* now, would love to be at 7*...) I looked around real quick to see how much it'd cost just for the uppers and it's like $500+. :jawdrop: No thanks, I'll accept my current caster rate.
Quote from: hotrodalex on February 08, 2015, 12:34:24 PM
Was thinking about getting new upper control arms. I have tubular ones already, but they aren't specially made for the tall ball joints that I installed, so I can't get quite as much caster out of them as I'd like. (I think I'm at 3-4* now, would love to be at 7*...) I looked around real quick to see how much it'd cost just for the uppers and it's like $500+. :jawdrop: No thanks, I'll accept my current caster rate.
Yeah, corvette ones are super expensive too.
(http://i.imgur.com/txfI4yk.jpg)
:praise:
Install Saturday.
(http://i.imgur.com/cXFwZps.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/k2iOYzb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OnJ4uSR.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dKLRRD3.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rBzYKaU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eymJYHm.jpg)
Fender-well rub and speed bumps mean that's about as low as it'll go.
~60 lb/in stiffer springs up front, ~50# in the rear. Single adjustable shocks, set on 3 of 18 at the moment. For autocross most guys go up to 9-12 clicks. It doesn't ride any stiffer, but feels more planted and controlled. Should have less body roll, too.
Started the job at 10:30 am, got all the tools put away around 1:30 am. Only had one major problem, which was the old rear lower shock mount studs. Had to run to Harbor Freight and buy a sawzall to cut it off, because it was torqued super tight and also probably rusted to the edge. And then there was a new bolt to install on the upper shock mount that involved using a magnetic screw driver to place the nut between the bed floor and upper mount, a space of about 1 cm. Had to crush my hand between them to hold the nut enough to start the threads. AKA I'm never messing with that mount ever again.
Any shock dynos available?
Can't find any for these specific ones.
any for same model, different car?
Found some upper control arms on eBay for $160-200. Might go with those...
More caster and camber gain arriving sometime next week.
Put the new upper control arms on yesterday. Pretty easy swap.
(http://i.imgur.com/nabSWqR.jpg)
I put the same amount of alignment shims on, I think I'm running like -4* camber and 7+ degrees caster. :lol: Will get that sorted out on Tuesday with an alignment. Shooting for 1-1.5* camber, ~6 caster, 1/16" toe-in.
More fun pics:
(http://i.imgur.com/Tust9Pd.jpg)
Need to get rid of those drums ASAP.
(http://i.imgur.com/cIIuEJl.jpg)
Work warehouse/shop.
(http://i.imgur.com/hjgtEjQ.jpg)
Gotta swap out those drums for some Baer discs.
Probably just going to get a kit to adapt the front rotors on the rear. Baer/Brembo/Wilwood kits are pretty, but for street driving and even autocross, I don't see much of an improvement to justify the price. I'm mainly switching to rear discs for easier maintenance, plus the option to use more aggressive pad compounds both front and rear.
Quote from: FoMoJo on March 15, 2015, 06:48:40 PM
Gotta swap out those drums for some Baer discs.
You always have the most expensive suggestions
So from the chat thread, I took it in for an alignment on Tuesday, had like 10 degrees of caster. Decided that I put the control arms on the wrong sides, silly me. Swapped them later that day, took it back in this morning. All went well, sitting at -1.3 degrees camber, 4.9 degrees caster, 1/16" toe-in (1/8" total toe).
Aluminum cylinder comparison time!
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/ (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/)
Was looking at the Speedway Flo-Teks since they are an awesome price and a good improvement over stock in both HP and weight. The Patriot/Promaxx heads are also an option. $100 more, but +40 HP and +10 torque over the Flo-Teks. That's up at 6k rpm, though, which I don't think I've ever seen. Usually shift at 5k if I'm really getting on it, normal driving is 3-3.5k. It's only a 5 HP difference in daily driving, 20 HP at 5k rpm.
So for the past week or two, I've been chasing a super annoying squeak on the driver's side front suspension. It's been around since I put the coil-overs in, so I figured it had to be something that got touched during that install. First guess was the sway bar end link, so I tightened that up. Then I greased the lower control arm bushings and ball joint. Greased the sway bar at the frame mount. Sprayed the lower shock mount with silicone. No bueno. Today I finally figured out it was the top stud on the shock, which I absolutely did not expect. Few turns on the nut and it's all fixed. Finally, because the squeak was giving me nightmares.
Something goes "tunk" like a wooden dowel hitting concrete when I turn my wheel enough sometimes. I think it's the idler arm. I have another one, it's just stayed exactly the same for so long I haven't bothered changing it out yet.
Yellow headlight appreciation thread
(http://i.imgur.com/yTOc66h.jpg)
Took it out for a night time canyon carving session. I'm incredibly happy with the handling on this thing now. Feels right at home on twisty roads.
(http://i.imgur.com/d9t7zWU.jpg)
What does the canyon look like now?
(http://www.carolinamountain.org/sites/default/files/images/Conservation%20Stories/jackolantern.JPG)
Nice
(http://i.imgur.com/duLXYcK.jpg)
One (or maybe both) of my turn signal blinker switch thingies died today. I was surprised by how annoying it was to drive to the store without turn signals. Don't know how people do that all the time...
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 08, 2015, 08:26:16 PM
One (or maybe both) of my turn signal blinker switch thingies died today. I was surprised by how annoying it was to drive to the store without turn signals. Don't know how people do that all the time...
People don't give a fuck about letting other people in giant, heavy, moving objects know what they're doing in their own giant, heavy, moving object.
I think I get my muscle car dirtier than some guys get their Jeep/Brodozer.
(http://i.imgur.com/nC0MFEm.jpg)
It got twice as dirty on the way down.
Your headlights have yellowed. They must leak. You better fix that.
I moved my tach. Dunno why I thought it wouldn't fit there. Maybe I was unwilling to put it on the tilt part, but ehh not a problem. Although it blocks the turn signal indicators now.
Still need to do something about the speedometer... Or nah.
(http://i.imgur.com/73zjAEl.jpg)
Updates:
- aluminum heads and a new cam were installed, much power
- rear disc brakes installed, along with drilled/slotted rotors all around
- new MSD ignition box installed
- new, nicer looking electric fans installed
- new tach because the other one died
I won an AutoX event back in July, so I've been a "pro" since then. Also started doing SCCA races, with the new CAM-T class. Car needs an LSD still. Could also use some 200 tread wear tires, but I'm undecided if I want to spend that much money and find a place to store them. Also deciding if I should install a VintageAir A/C unit.
What heads and cam did you go with?
Flotek heads, Edelbrock street cam (hydraulic flat tappet), 1.5 roller rockers. The cam isn't as big as I'd like. Not rumbly enough.
Oh, I got new header-back exhaust too. Ordered new mid-length ceramic coated headers but they didn't fit. :rage: So I just kept the old ones and installed an H-pipe and Flowmasters.
Sweet. I'd totally go with the Rollin' Thunder roller cam and probably one of the smaller ones. Used to have to do stuff to use roller cams in older blocks but that may not be the case anymore.
Would have been nice to see more pictures of these modifications.
Quote from: GoCougs on November 14, 2015, 09:57:50 AM
Sweet. I'd totally go with the Rollin' Thunder roller cam and probably one of the smaller ones. Used to have to do stuff to use roller cams in older blocks but that may not be the case anymore.
Yeah, it would have taken a bit more work to use a roller. I might have gone that direction, but the new cam had been sitting in the garage for a couple of years and was looking for a home.
All in, I think I've gone from 260 hp to 325-330. Not bad.
(http://i.imgur.com/nAhKB3X.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qXnn8zO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/J4IJtYx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/T3v9cy5.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on November 14, 2015, 10:37:09 AM
Yeah, it would have taken a bit more work to use a roller. I might have gone that direction, but the new cam had been sitting in the garage for a couple of years and was looking for a home.
All in, I think I've gone from 260 hp to 325-330. Not bad.
Careful you don't blow the bottom end out.
Quote from: FoMoJo on November 14, 2015, 10:53:47 AM
Careful you don't blow the bottom end out.
Nah, it's all good. He bought a GM crate motor IIRC, and they're all 4-bolt mains, which were factory rated up to 370 hp in the LT-1 in the 1970 Corvette.
Good to see you back. I saw your car at the light a 900 W and Center a while back. It looked really nice. That is a nice bump in power.
Quote from: GoCougs on November 15, 2015, 01:20:26 AM
Nah, it's all good. He bought a GM crate motor IIRC, and they're all 4-bolt mains, which were factory rated up to 370 hp in the LT-1 in the 1970 Corvette.
Any further HP bumps would include bottom end upgrades anyway. I could get a bit more power with an air-gap intake and bigger cam, but higher compression pistons and a 400 crank would be the next step for noticeable gains.
Quote from: RomanChariot on November 16, 2015, 09:10:11 AM
Good to see you back. I saw your car at the light a 900 W and Center a while back. It looked really nice. That is a nice bump in power.
Thanks!
It's been getting more attention lately. I drove around the Nebo Loop a couple of weeks ago and snapped a quick picture, which ended up being reposted 3-4 times on Instagram, once by one of the major car accounts. Kinda cool to see how many likes a crappy old El Camino can get.
(http://i.imgur.com/n4mKCKi.png)
Here's some action pictures from the SCCA Cam Challenge East, back in August. I ran right before Al Unser Jr. most of the time, so there was some pressure to not screw up and get in his way. Didn't stop me from spinning out and doing a smoky donut. :lol:
(http://i.imgur.com/rCvYnYd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/PTv6Iuw.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IiCS8lB.jpg)
Here's some shots of my dad's car and Al's.
(http://i.imgur.com/7AMcTk9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sqfQ3Ip.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qKlCAM9.jpg)
Still trying to figure out why somebody would take a timeless classic El Camino and ruin it by making it awesome.
Quote from: MX793 on November 16, 2015, 12:50:08 PM
Still trying to figure out why somebody would take a timeless classic El Camino and ruin it by making it awesome.
:lol:
:thumbsup:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on November 16, 2015, 09:38:03 AM
Any further HP bumps would include bottom end upgrades anyway. I could get a bit more power with an air-gap intake and bigger cam, but higher compression pistons and a 400 crank would be the next step for noticeable gains.
IMO that's not far away from the pinnacle of the streetable classic small block Chevy - 383 cubes, AL heads, moderate roller cam, moderate CR, and throttle body FI. You'd have one potent motor.
Over the weekend I sealed up the kick panel vents. The stock panels were able to close and keep air out much better than my current ones, which let cold air in at a rate that the heater could barely keep up with. So I just sealed up the hole and will just have to live without the vents in the summer.
(http://i.imgur.com/REwynp9.jpg)
On the other hand, that does just appear to be foil and tape, so you could cut that off and then redo it next winter.
True. Or just pay $1500 and get A/C. :lol:
I'll have to make a decision this spring - A/C or sticky tires (+another set of wheels probably). Touring car or race car. Tough choice.
Race car sounds like you would need a second car. I say race car, but aren't you still a student?
I'd just have a set of sticky 200 TW autox tires for summer fun and then my current tires for the rest of the year. If I got new wheels, I could get another inch of tire up front and have 275s all around.
After looking at other cars with Vintage Air, it seems like too much work and effort installing it. Too many hoses and wires and crap. Tires it is.
Tires are way better.
What wheels should I get?
I want to fit 275/35-18s on all corners, on a 9.5" wheel. Either BFG Rival S or Bridgestone RE-71R. Both are sticky as hell, but SCCA nats seemed to strongly favor the RE-71R
Light, good looking, and cheap are the goals.
Other option is to keep the current wheels and swap the tires on. It'd be a staggered 245/275 setup, though.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on November 30, 2015, 10:41:23 PM
What wheels should I get?
I want to fit 275/35-18s on all corners, on a 9.5" wheel.
Light, good looking, and cheap are the goals.
What about strong? You need strong wheels for heavy car. Forged.
I haven't found any wheels that are within my budget, so the tire plan might be killed too. Frees up some money for a motorcycle, at least.
I've got an exhaust leak at the header collector that I can't get rid of. Might be a good idea to buy a ball/socket conversion and weld it on.
http://www.amazon.com/HEDMAN-HEDDERS-21151-Collector-Conversion/dp/B00J9KMZN2 (http://www.amazon.com/HEDMAN-HEDDERS-21151-Collector-Conversion/dp/B00J9KMZN2)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 04, 2015, 05:21:06 PM
I haven't found any wheels that are within my budget, so the tire plan might be killed too. Frees up some money for a motorcycle, at least.
I've got an exhaust leak at the header collector that I can't get rid of. Might be a good idea to buy a ball/socket conversion and weld it on.
http://www.amazon.com/HEDMAN-HEDDERS-21151-Collector-Conversion/dp/B00J9KMZN2 (http://www.amazon.com/HEDMAN-HEDDERS-21151-Collector-Conversion/dp/B00J9KMZN2)
Sure, why not? Or you can fix the collector flange. Or just bolt turn downs on the ends and not worry about exhaust leaks. Or you can put OEM manifolds back on because tuned tubular headers don't add power, they are just for looks or something. But srsly, you might need to adjust your exhaust hangers or something.
I think the header flange is warped a bit, so it's not getting enough pressure all the way around the gasket (dead soft aluminum). I'll try beating on it to flatten it out, but if that doesn't work the ball and socket collector is pretty guaranteed to work.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 04, 2015, 05:30:56 PM
I think the header flange is warped a bit, so it's not getting enough pressure all the way around the gasket (dead soft aluminum). I'll try beating on it to flatten it out, but if that doesn't work the ball and socket collector is pretty guaranteed to work.
Are you going to beat it on the car, or put it on an anvil? A nice angle grinder might work better. You can brush an even coat of some Prussian Blue on one side of the flange, bolt it together without a gasket, then take it apart and identify the high spots.
(http://i.imgur.com/XsJKP3r.jpg)
Adjustable upper rear trailing arms. I'm planning on taking the whole axle out of the car this spring, so I can take it to a shop and get a limited slip, clean it up, paint it, replace the bushings, and install the new trailing arms.
I'll probably buy UMI lower arms, but I have a few months to decide.
Is it an open differential right now?
Yep. :cry:
LOL......Hahahahahahahahaha.....
:lol:
Sorry man.
It's still nice to drive and can drift pretty well so I've been putting it off. But it's time.
Posi trac or are you going to go with something like a Torsen for auto-x?
Detroit Locker, or weld your open.
Detroit Truetracs are the go-to for a lot of guys racing similar cars, but I don't think they make them for GM 8.2 axles. I know I can get an OEM style Eaton Posi.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on January 04, 2016, 07:49:13 AM
Detroit Locker, or weld your open.
Weld it.
Welding is best for Doritos.
I've decided to change the gears while I'm at it. I think it's got 3.36 right now, so a 3.73 sounds good.
Then I'll have good motivation to find a 5 speed swap.
The 5 speed swap I like the best is the TKO500, which has a 3.27 first gear. If I do that, I won't need to change the rear end gears.
I think that's the plan. Beginning of summer will be rear end overhaul, middle-end of summer will be TKO install. Then I'll have better acceleration and better freeway rpms, plus a stronger transmission that doesn't leak. I can also switch to a hydraulic clutch and/or heavier pressure plate while I'm at it.
And that means no motorcycle, but racecar takes priority.
(http://i.imgur.com/J7qbqrW.jpg)
Did a quick browse of hydraulic clutch options. Price wise they all seem similar, just need to find the one that's easiest to install and won't require much maintenance (like adjusting the hydraulic bearing). The instructions for one kit rambled on about possibly needing to shim the bellhousing. :nono:
http://www.dragzine.com/news/transmission-upgrades-the-mcleod-muscle-car-5-manual-transmission/ (http://www.dragzine.com/news/transmission-upgrades-the-mcleod-muscle-car-5-manual-transmission/)
Looks like this would be less work to install than a TKO. Only worry would be potential lack of replacement parts compared to the Tremec.
^This is relevant to my interests^
So, can you pick ur own ratios, synchros, and needle bearings, or what? Why not just stick with a 4-speed since gas is so cheap? What is your top speed currently? And if you just add more power, you won't need more gears. That is, until you add so much power that you do need more gears.
The main reason to get a 5th gear is for NVH.
But racecar.
Keeping the 4 speed means I have to choose between acceleration or highway cruising. I'm not worried about mpg, just engine health. I'd like to be able to cruise at 85 mph at 3000 rpm, while also improving 0-60 time.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on January 16, 2016, 10:44:30 PM
^This is relevant to my interests^
How much power does the 327 make? McLeod also sells a T-5 good for 300 lb/ft torque.
The McLeod 5 speed mount is about 2" further back than a Muncie/Saginaw mount. Might be able to use a 700R4 mount for easy swappage.
I emailed McLeod on Saturday. This was their response:
QuoteThank You for your interest in McLeod Racing.
The McLeod Racing Muscle Car 5 Speed is a Muncie Style replacement, based on a smaller more compact case design so there will be little to no tunnel modification.
The 5 speed comes with 8620 forged gear sets with the following gear ratio.
1st 2.95 2nd 1.99 3rd 1.34 4th 1.00 5th .63 along with a 32 spline output shaft and a 1-1/8 x 26 spline inputshaft.
The same as a turbo 400 or a super t-10.
The transmission crossmember is the same as a Tremec TKO 500/600, so any of the aftermarket companies that offer for those applications to your vehicle will work.
You may need to modify the length on the driveshaft.
The shifter has zero offset to fit in any specific car, to get it in a specific console you may need to purchase separately an offset shifter sub assembly that is specific to the application. The sub assemblies sell for an additional $150.00.
Also if you have a mechanical speedometer you may run into a situation where the speedo does not register correctly when going forward.
This situation requires a speedo reverser adapter that changes the signal that the speedometer will receive. The part number is 512958 and sells for $162.75.
Standard clutches, flywheels and bellhousing are no issue with this transmission.
The part number for the GM is 512957 and costs $2795.00 plus shipping.
So it's pretty much a drop in. Other than changing a few mounts, cutting the driveshaft, getting a shifter sub assembly and a speedo adapter.
:thumbsup:
Meh, I'm not so sure I'd bother with a 5 sp. $3,000+ is a lot for just one more gear. I think I'd throw that coin into a mild all-roller EFI stroker and 3.55 gears. She'd pull plenty good and not be annoying on the freeway.
I'm probably going to stick with the Saginaw and buy a motorcycle instead. Even if I break the Saginaw, I have a spare sitting in the garage.
But a hydraulic clutch is still an option. That, or swap clutch forks to one that uses a heim joint connection. Right now my z-bar just rests in a little pocket in the fork, which can rattle around on the highway unless I put a tiny bit of pressure on the pedal.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-GM-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Throwout-Fork,37080.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-GM-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Throwout-Fork,37080.html)
This is what it looks like installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/q0miPsT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/uFakUIK.jpg)
The Corvette has anti rattle springs for that
The clutch linkage, or the whole car thingy?
Mine did, but I took it off when I tried to swap headers and never put it back on. Didn't work perfectly anyway, and it wasn't a straight shot to the hole in the frame so I could hear the spring rub against the frame /OCD
Shit dude. Just cut that section of frame out. Problem solved.
Steering works much better when the bolts are tight. If anyone was wondering.
:cheers:
(http://i.imgur.com/W9bcX1j.jpg)
:praise: Another magazine shot. Taken back in Sep/Oct when I went to a show in Colorado.
Which mag?
Big Black Caminos (BBC)
jk. Just the Goodguys Gazette.
I wish it was Big Black Caminos.
Or Grande Negro Camino.
"Nimble", must be used in a relative context.
Faster than some POS 300ZX.
:devil:
Fuck. She's dead. Thinking it blew the drivers side head gasket and got coolant in the #5/7 cylinder. Starter won't turn over. Coolant is half gone, but not in the catch can. Oil level is hella high. I think it's hydro-locked.
:mask:
Time to add turbo?
Turbo LS?
Damn, that sucks
Destroked LS7
Worth more than the rest of the car. :lol:
but .... but....
BWAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
So you'll double the car's value. Profit!
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 24, 2016, 11:05:54 PM
Worth more than the rest of the car. :lol:
I know a guy who has 2 brand new crate LT1s for sale. I think he wanted $8500 a piece. Don't ask where he got them from.........
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 24, 2016, 11:05:54 PM
Worth more than the rest of the car. :lol:
Any diagnosis yet? Any block or head damage?
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on April 25, 2016, 06:13:53 AM
I know a guy who has 2 brand new crate LT1s for sale. I think he wanted $8500 a piece. Don't ask where he got them from.........
:lol:
Quote from: FoMoJo on April 25, 2016, 07:10:51 AM
Any diagnosis yet? Any block or head damage?
Not yet. Will take a look when I get it home. There was some oil leaking when I pulled to the side of the road so my hopes aren't very high.
RIP Mullet race car :cry:
Quote from: MrH on April 25, 2016, 07:54:00 AM
RIP Mullet race car :cry:
Shit man, do you really think a blown small block Chevy is enough to kill any car? Swapping an SBC is like swapping wiper blades.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on April 25, 2016, 10:35:06 AM
Shit man, do you really think a blown small block Chevy is enough to kill any car? Swapping an SBC is like swapping wiper blades.
Used to be a dime a dozen back in the day. Junkyards were full of them. :huh:
Nah I can swap an engine much faster than figuring out windshield wipers
I finally got the car off the trailer and into the driveway. I think we got everyone on the block to help, even though 4 guys would have sufficed. :lol: (my driveway is uphill, otherwise only 2 pushers would be needed)
I'll probably start tearing it down tomorrow to see what the damage is.
If you want to learn (like I did) tear it down and have it rebuilt.
If you want to go fast for cheap, buy this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35513ct1/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35513ct1/overview/)
Pulled the valve covers and didn't notice anything troublesome. Pulled the spark plugs and the #8 plug has been destroyed by a valve. Took off the rocker arm on the exhaust valve and sure enough, the valve broke off. :facepalm:
If I'm lucky it didn't do too much damage to the cylinder walls and I'll be able to bore or sleeve it. If I'm not lucky, it poked a hole in the block and I need a new engine.
Spark plug:
(http://i.imgur.com/RNawzG9.jpg)
Valve broken off:
(http://i.imgur.com/A1ntJ8F.jpg)
Pushrod guideplate worn down:
(http://i.imgur.com/BVLQBgf.jpg)
Jeez. What RPM where you driving at when it let go?
Also, dumb question, but why couldn't it keep running on the remaining 7 cylinders?
IIRC I was going about 70, so around 3k rpm.
There's a good chance the valve is wedged in the cylinder preventing the piston from moving and the crank turning. Otherwise, the engine can totally run without an exhaust valve.
Must've been quite a commotion in the combustion chamber when the bit of valve started bouncing around. How did it sound when it broke? Didn't you say that you saw some coolant dripping?
Any clue why it broke?
That actually happens with shocking regularity on rebuilt motors. All it takes is a small (sometimes even too small for the naked eye) flaw in manufacturing or a nick from installation and it will fatigue and break fairly quickly. If the valve dropped into the cylinder the motor's probably toast unfortunately. I wouldn't bother with a sleeve or whatever. Time for a full roller 383 yo!
Powerstroked turbo'd 4.3
Quote from: GoCougs on April 28, 2016, 10:49:17 PM
That actually happens with shocking regularity on rebuilt motors. All it takes is a small (sometimes even too small for the naked eye) flaw in manufacturing or a nick from installation and it will fatigue and break fairly quickly. If the valve dropped into the cylinder the motor's probably toast unfortunately. I wouldn't bother with a sleeve or whatever. Time for a full roller 383 yo!
I have to be careful about HP levels since I'm running a Saginaw and 10 bolt instead of a Muncie/12 bolt (or even a 8.5" 10 bolt, which is just as strong as a 12 bolt)
The Blueprint engine that 280Z posted looks pretty nice.
Quote from: 68_427 on April 28, 2016, 10:53:06 PM
Powerstroked turbo'd 4.3
A supercharged or turbo inline-6 would be neat. Sadly it would probably cost twice as much to get the same HP as a SBC.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 28, 2016, 10:56:06 PM
I have to be careful about HP levels since I'm running a Saginaw and 10 bolt instead of a Muncie/12 bolt (or even a 8.5" 10 bolt, which is just as strong as a 12 bolt)
The Blueprint engine that 280Z posted looks pretty nice.
Hmmm. That does look like a shockingly good deal. Their 383 version is only $400 more though: www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38313ct1/overview/make/chevrolet (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38313ct1/overview/make/chevrolet)
I wasn't thinking ultimate HP but rather a more usable/fatter power band (mild 5500-6000 rpm roller cam).
Motortrend's Engine Masters uses those blueprint engines.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGvTvFzdMg_O2T3UdUEt5dIHutSOu7srE (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGvTvFzdMg_O2T3UdUEt5dIHutSOu7srE)
A likely scenario is that I'll steal the 350 out of the Camaro, which will then get a 383.
It's a 10-15 year old engine with iron Dart heads, custom ground roller cam, air gap intake, etc. and was right around 400 hp when built. Apparently it's a bit down on power now, maybe 375-ish. He was going to rebuild it next winter and turn it into a 383, but it's still running well so transplanting it wouldn't be a bad move either.
Quote from: GoCougs on April 28, 2016, 10:49:17 PM
That actually happens with shocking regularity on rebuilt motors. All it takes is a small (sometimes even too small for the naked eye) flaw in manufacturing or a nick from installation and it will fatigue and break fairly quickly. If the valve dropped into the cylinder the motor's probably toast unfortunately. I wouldn't bother with a sleeve or whatever. Time for a full roller 383 yo!
It happens in the new GM V8s with alarming regularity as well.
lol
(http://i.imgur.com/JCy8wWl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/1EKW0kD.jpg)
Doesn't look so bad :huh:.
I'll have to turn the engine and see what the cylinder wall looks like and if the block is decent enough for a rebuild or scrap.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 06, 2016, 04:49:11 PM
I'll have to turn the engine and see what the cylinder wall looks like and if the block is decent enough for a rebuild or scrap.
If the valve seats aren't too badly damaged, it looks doable...valve, piston. Didn't you say coolant was dripping though?
The intake valve seat has a hole in it. In fact, there was bits of aluminum in the #2 cylinder (all the way on the other side) that must have gotten there through the intake manifold. So the piston and head are toast. The head is still under warranty for a couple of weeks so I'll contact them about it and see what they'll do.
I noticed oil dripping, not coolant. I'm going to pull the engine and check the block for damage at that point.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 06, 2016, 05:05:50 PM
The intake valve seat has a hole in it. In fact, there was bits of aluminum in the #2 cylinder (all the way on the other side) that must have gotten there through the intake manifold. So the piston and head are toast. The head is still under warranty for a couple of weeks so I'll contact them about it and see what they'll do.
I noticed oil dripping, not coolant. I'm going to pull the engine and check the block for damage at that point.
Aluminum? What's it from? Piston?
Hard to imagine where the oil is dripping from unless you've got a crack in the block.
The head is all aluminum and had chunks ripped off of it, so it could have been from that. Or it was from the piston. I haven't done a metal analysis on it to know for sure. :lol:
Where is the block at with overbore? If you are at .040 already I think you should scrap it.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on May 06, 2016, 05:22:53 PM
Where is the block at with overbore? If you are at .040 already I think you should scrap it.
.000 since it's a fresh 350
Dart block?
Goodwrench
I should convert it to a 2 stroke and then I won't have to worry about valves anymore.
Make it a diesel too. Then you don't have to worry about spark plugs, either.
Too bad that Chrysler turbine engine that was for sale recently has already been snapped up.
Now THAT would have been an interesting project! :dance:
ouch.
Quote from: Rupert on May 06, 2016, 07:55:10 PM
Make it a diesel too. Then you don't have to worry about spark plugs, either.
:clap:
A month later, the engine is out. The whole car needs a deep cleaning and I want to tidy up the wiring in the engine bay. I'll probably try to ditch as many electrical things as I can. It's gotten a bit too complicated for my taste.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 28, 2016, 03:47:27 PM
A month later, the engine is out. The whole car needs a deep cleaning and I want to tidy up the wiring in the engine bay. I'll probably try to ditch as many electrical things as I can. It's gotten a bit too complicated for my taste.
What? Like an electric starter?
Yeah I'll just steal the kickstarter off my bike
Okay, here's a good question.
The current plan is to swap the Camaro engine into the El Camino. It's a 350, bored .030 over, iron Dart heads, 10:1 compression, roller cam. Right around 400 hp. Obviously it has headers. The headers will be staying with the car, so I can either use my headers or get a new set. My headers are not ceramic coated and I don't think the flange is 100% straight because I can never get them to seal perfectly. Plus, they are a PITA to deal with since they're long tubes. So, do I ditch them and go with shorties? I tried to swap to shorties last fall, but the company lied to me about fitment. I could find a new pair and try again. I'd have to re-do my exhaust a bit to make up for the length difference. They'd be much easier to install, but still be difficult to work around when changing spark plugs.
Or, the other option is to find some manifolds. They would be easy to install, shouldn't leak, and leave clearance for spark plugs. BUT, how much HP am I going to lose, and will they kill all the fun? I don't want to choke the motor and miss out on 20 HP.
We have full length headers and they're not an issue, but Corvettes have huge engine bays. They're really mid engined.
Just get some shorty headers. I'm sure they'll be fine. Cast iron manifolds were made for 200 hp stock engines. I wouldn't use them in a performance application.
Yeah, I think the HP loss from manifolds could be in the 30-40 hp range. Shorties would be a small loss, but this engine has more HP than I had before so it shouldn't matter much.
Plus, you'll just blow the manifold if you go that route.
Quote from: Rupert on May 29, 2016, 06:06:51 PM
Plus, you'll just blow the manifold if you go that route.
That could take a month to rebuild.
These could be a possibility
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-68600/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/el-camino (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-68600/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/el-camino)
You may have to repaint, but they'll be fine. We've had the same painted ones on for 13 years and I just repainted them.
Says the paint is only meant to prevent rust while shipping. But Eastwood has a nifty spray can for coating the insides.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-hi-temp-internal-exhaust-coating-w-extension-tu.html (http://www.eastwood.com/ew-hi-temp-internal-exhaust-coating-w-extension-tu.html)
Supposed to be good for 1800 degrees, which is much better than the 1200 degree stuff you usually see at the store. It works on the outside as well, obviously.
I pulled the bellhousing off today and the block doesn't appear to have any holes or other issues. I might end up rebuilding after all. Might call a shop tomorrow to have them check it out.
It'll need new rods and pistons, and probably bored .030. The other head should still be perfectly usable, so if Flotek sends me one to replace the FUBAR'd one, I'd just want to replace all of the valves with ones of my own choosing. New pushrods and full gasket kit and it'd be ready to go. With new pistons I'd raise the compression ratio some more - getting to 10:1 would be nice. Then there's the question of getting a new cam - current one is alright but not thumpy enough at idle. :lol: First thought was to convert to a roller cam, but that's prohibitively expensive - talking like $800 instead of $145 for a Comp hydraulic roller.
Something like this Comp would be nice, if it's not too big.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=86&sb=2 (http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=86&sb=2)
However, there's one slight problem - a new cam means having to break it in, means I can't put ceramic coated headers on it right away.
I think that XE268 is a bit too large. I want power from idle to ~5500 rpm to give me the best corner exiting power in autocross and give me decent longevity by not revving the engine super high.
I've currently got an Edelbrock 2102, but they also have a larger version that is good for the same rpm range - the 2117.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/chevy-sb.shtml (http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/chevy-sb.shtml)
Comp has an XE262H, which is just a slightly smaller version of the one I posted before. Basically the same specs as the Edelbrock 2117 except for the lobe separation and intake centerline. I'll be honest, I'm not totally sure what the difference would be wrt performance and streetability.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=85&sb=2 (http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=85&sb=2)
I got a Lunati Voodoo. Haven't had the opportunity to try it out yet, but I think it will be nice.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1982&gid=287 (http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1982&gid=287)
I think that Edelbrock 2117 might be geared toward EFI applications, which is why the lobe sep and centerline is higher. If you click on the cam cards for the 2102 and 2117, they both say they're good for 320 hp and 382 ft lbs. No use upgrading for no power gain. :lol:
The Comp XE262 is right around 350 hp with a very similar engine build to mine. The XE268 installed in the same engine actually performed at bit worse at peak, so obviously it's too much cam for the intake and heads.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/DynoSheets/XE262H-10_001.asp (http://www.compcams.com/Technical/DynoSheets/XE262H-10_001.asp)
(http://i.imgur.com/Xw6XfdN.jpg)
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on May 30, 2016, 07:06:10 PM
I got a Lunati Voodoo. Haven't had the opportunity to try it out yet, but I think it will be nice.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1982&gid=287 (http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1982&gid=287)
Going in a 327, right? That should be great.
Lunati claims the Voodoos perform better than the XE's. I'll have to look into them some more.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 30, 2016, 06:58:30 PM
I think that XE268 is a bit too large. I want power from idle to ~5500 rpm to give me the best corner exiting power in autocross and give me decent longevity by not revving the engine super high.
Just go to a 5.11 rear
Headers are usually sucky - rusty, flimsy, leaky and loud (esp. under the hood, which bugs the heck out of me). On any sort of street machine the gains are in the upper RPM ranges usually come with sacrifices down low. Things have to get way beyond stock for headers to provide more power at all RPMs and you'd have to spend a boatload to even approach the durability of factory cast manifolds.
All the hi-po Chevy small blocks of the muscle car hey day (350 hp-375 hp LT-1, L79, L84, DZ302, etc.), plus the modern small block up to and including the LS7 (a 600 hp motor if built/rated in the '60s) and new LT1, all have cast exhaust manifolds from the factory. Perhaps get a pair of vintage hi-po manifolds, or, some companies are providing new hi-po modern cast iron manifolds.
After calling some machine shops, most are gonna take too long and/or be kinda expensive. Plus, it turns out that my dad would probably end up getting a Blueprint 383 next winter anyway, leaving his current engine to sit in the garage in perfectly good condition. So it's engine swap time.
He ordered this: http://www.blueprintengines.com/index.php/products/bp-gm-crate-engines-landing/gm-383-main/item/gm-383-engine-specs-bp38313ct1 (http://www.blueprintengines.com/index.php/products/bp-gm-crate-engines-landing/gm-383-main/item/gm-383-engine-specs-bp38313ct1)
430 hp, 450 ft-lbs.
The engine going into my car is a bit tamer. Take all of the specs for that 383 and reduce them by a 5% and you'll basically have it. I'll need to buy an air gap intake to match the cam. Hopefully my 650 cfm carb can still handle it.
Quote from: GoCougs on June 01, 2016, 11:43:17 AM
Headers are usually sucky - rusty, flimsy, leaky and loud (esp. under the hood, which bugs the heck out of me). On any sort of street machine the gains are in the upper RPM ranges usually come with sacrifices down low. Things have to get way beyond stock for headers to provide more power at all RPMs and you'd have to spend a boatload to even approach the durability of factory cast manifolds.
All the hi-po Chevy small blocks of the muscle car hey day (350 hp-375 hp LT-1, L79, L84, DZ302, etc.), plus the modern small block up to and including the LS7 (a 600 hp motor if built/rated in the '60s) and new LT1, all have cast exhaust manifolds from the factory. Perhaps get a pair of vintage hi-po manifolds, or, some companies are providing new hi-po modern cast iron manifolds.
Correctly sized headers will provide torque and power gains throughout the whole rev range. And the more powerful the engine is, the more of a difference it makes.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/49178-headers-power-increase/ (http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/49178-headers-power-increase/)
QuoteThe comparison test pitted the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds against a set of 1-5/8-inch Hooker headers that were plumbed into the same 2-½-inch exhaust system. As you can see from the results of Test 1 versus Test 2, the headers were an unqualified success. If all you looked at was peak horsepower, the cast-iron engine made a best 239 hp at 4,200, while the headers pumped the power up to 255 hp at a 200-rpm–higher 4,400 rpm. This alone is a significant 16 hp, but that's not all of the story. The headers not only reduce exhaust restrictions, which lowers exhaust backpressure, but the length and diameter of the header pipes also have a dramatic effect on the torque curve as well. This is perhaps a bigger story than just the horsepower increase.
Look closely at the two torque curves and you will see a spike of 53 lb-ft of torque at 3,400 rpm while the 3,200-rpm line reveals a torque increase of 26 lb-ft of torque. These are amazing numbers that average more than 26 lb-ft of torque between 3,000 and 3,800 rpm.
QuoteNext, we started with a 436hp 355 equipped with a set of Air Flow Research aluminum heads and a Comp Cams 274 Xtreme Energy camshaft with 230/236 degrees of duration at 0.050-inch tappet lift with 0.552/0.555-inch valve lift. On the induction side, we added an Edelbrock Performer RPM and a 750-cfm Holley carburetor. This engine obviously needed a very efficient exhaust system if it was going to perform well. But for Test 3, we corked it up with a pair of exhaust manifolds similar to the ones used on the mild engine test and tied them in with a pair of 2¼-inch exhaust pipes.
In this case, it's easy to guess that the stout small-block fizzled with this much restriction on the exhaust side. Test 4 revealed how much headers are worth on a well-prepared engine by pulling out an impressive 68 lb-ft of torque improvement at 5,200 rpm (338 versus 406) that is equivalent to a mild nitrous hit in terms of pure torque. Peak-horsepower improvements were actually even more impressive with a 70hp gain at 6,200 rpm. We did the math and came up with a staggering average increase of 46 lb-ft of torque. That means that throughout the entire 4,000-rpm band from 2,600 to 6,600 rpm, the engine made 46 lb-ft of torque more with the headers at every single data point.
False. Aftermarket parts reduce horsepower.
(https://www.opgi.com/common/CE05138-lrg.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 02, 2016, 03:21:01 PM
Correctly sized headers will provide torque and power gains throughout the whole rev range. And the more powerful the engine is, the more of a difference it makes.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/49178-headers-power-increase/ (http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/49178-headers-power-increase/)
Note on those two engines they only speak of 3,000+ RPM, which is the last 30-50% of their RPM range. One has to look at 75%+ of the RPM range for a street motor; case in point which I've posted before: http://www.ultimateheaders.com/dyno.shtml (http://www.ultimateheaders.com/dyno.shtml)
Both headers lose more down low than they add up top, plus the long tube headers have a 98% chance of not fitting on a street machine (or, at least not on a Z06 or Z28). The vehicle with the LS7 manifolds will be the better street machine.
The average increase on the built 355 was 46 lb-ft, from 2600-6600 rpm.
SBC manifolds are in no way performance-oriented and will NOT help me go faster in autox or stop light drags. Quit yer bullshit. The only reason I contemplated it was to rid myself of the suffering that is dealing with spark plugs while the headers are installed, and installing/removing the headers themselves. Purely non-performance goals.
I've had no issues with spark plugs, leaks, or fitment with long tube headers on the Vette.
It's cheaper to cast a part than to fabricate it. That's why they came with cast iron exhaust manifolds. There's no magic in 50 year old exhaust manifolds.
Maybe Cougs likes granny shifting from 700 to 2000 rpm.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on June 02, 2016, 06:01:01 PM
I've had no issues with spark plugs, leaks, or fitment with long tube headers on the Vette.
It's cheaper to cast a part than to fabricate it. That's why they came with cast iron exhaust manifolds. There's no magic in 50 year old exhaust manifolds.
My current headers came with the car, so they're probably no name cheapies. A good set of long tubes should have no leaking problems and fit nicely. However, it'll still be nearly impossible to install/remove long tubes on my driver's side without disconnecting the steering column and/or clutch linkage. That's why I'm looking at shorties.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on June 02, 2016, 06:01:01 PM
I've had no issues with spark plugs, leaks, or fitment with long tube headers on the Vette.
It's cheaper to cast a part than to fabricate it. That's why they came with cast iron exhaust manifolds. There's no magic in 50 year old exhaust manifolds.
If manifolds did not provide the best power and highest efficiency, they would not be fitted from the factory. The OEMs invest millions into powertrain development, they aren't going to leave power and efficiency on the table. All engines are at their optimum as designed and delivered from the factory.
Quote from: GoCougs on June 01, 2016, 11:43:17 AM
Headers are usually sucky - rusty, flimsy, leaky and loud (esp. under the hood, which bugs the heck out of me). On any sort of street machine the gains are in the upper RPM ranges usually come with sacrifices down low. Things have to get way beyond stock for headers to provide more power at all RPMs and you'd have to spend a boatload to even approach the durability of factory cast manifolds.
So why then does the new Camaro SS come fitted with these:
(http://image.hotrod.com/f/100802186+w660+h495+q80+re0+cr1+ar0+st0/2016-chevrolet-camaro-tri-yteaser.jpg)
instead of a cast manifold?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 02, 2016, 05:36:33 PM
The average increase on the built 355 was 46 lb-ft, from 2600-6600 rpm.
SBC manifolds are in no way performance-oriented and will NOT help me go faster in autox or stop light drags. Quit yer bullshit. The only reason I contemplated it was to rid myself of the suffering that is dealing with spark plugs while the headers are installed, and installing/removing the headers themselves. Purely non-performance goals.
You should know better than trying to bring the Funny Business.
First, four of those pictures are not of the engines tested (2/10, 3/10, 9/10 (lol not even an SBC), and 10/10 (BBC)).
Two, the mild 350 was tested with 2.5" exhaust and the hot 355 was tested with 2.25" exhaust system.
Three, using some sort of PC app to claim a set of headers drops your ET from 12.58 sec to 11.97 should be illegal.
Four, each exhaust/header swap needs a carb tune - though not stated that it wasn't done given the slappy nature of the article this highly likely did not happen (and carb tuning has a big effect on power).
Fifth, search for better tests (to be added of course to the test I already posted) - your criteria are: engine dyno, unbiased source, competence, no Funny Business (PM me link(s) for approval).
Sixth, on any sort of streetable motor, headers will add some up top (and plenty of tests (stock FI motors) show zero/negligible gain, 'cause they self correct A/F), but it usually comes with a cost down low (with the added "features" such as poor sealing, poor fitment, rust, etc.).
Quote from: MX793 on June 02, 2016, 07:28:56 PM
So why then does the new Camaro SS come fitted with these:
(http://image.hotrod.com/f/100802186+w660+h495+q80+re0+cr1+ar0+st0/2016-chevrolet-camaro-tri-yteaser.jpg)
instead of a cast manifold?
That's an aftermarket piece. The new LT1 has cast manifolds from the factory (research says they're stainless however):
(http://st.motortrend.com/uploads/sites/5/2012/10/2014-Chevrolet-Corvette-6.2L-LT1-exhaust-manifold-rs.jpg)
So does the 650 hp LT4:
(http://cdn.enginelabs.com/image/2014/09/1-lt4-0005.jpg)
So does the 662 hp GT500 - classic log style even:
(http://www.themustangnews.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/a3ShelbyGT500_11m.jpg)
Primary tube length determines what rpm range benefits. Longer tubes = more low end torque. Do manifolds have longer primaries than long tube headers?
Quote from: GoCougs on June 02, 2016, 08:55:44 PM
That's an aftermarket piece. The new LT1 has cast manifolds from the factory (research says they're stainless however):
So does the 650 hp LT4:
So does the 662 hp GT500 - classic log style even:
Those look a lot more like cast shorties than the log manifolds that I'd be installing.
And Ford doesn't know how to build a decent engine so that picture is irrelevant. :lol:
Quote from: GoCougs on June 02, 2016, 08:55:44 PM
That's an aftermarket piece. The new LT1 has cast manifolds from the factory (research says they're stainless however):
Not aftermarket. That is the factory "tri-Y" header on the Camaro's LT-1 (and is unique to the Camaro). That particular photo was one of the teasers GM released to the press leading up to the final unveiling.
Another official GM press image showing the 3 powertrain options for the Camaro (LT1 is up front)
(http://icdn8.digitaltrends.com/image/2016-chevrolet-camaro-enginelineup-970x647-c.jpg)
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on June 02, 2016, 06:03:18 PM
Maybe Cougs likes granny shifting from 700 to 2000 rpm.
He probably doesn't double clutch like he should, either.
Pics of the actual motor show it to be similar to the Corvette manifold. But even if it didn't, they're both rated at the same 455 hp.
(http://thenewswheel.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2016-Chevy-Camaro-engine.jpg)
Quote from: GoCougs on June 02, 2016, 09:25:10 PM
Pics of the actual motor show it to be similar to the Corvette manifold. But even if it didn't, they're both rated at the same 455 hp.
(http://thenewswheel.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2016-Chevy-Camaro-engine.jpg)
That display motor is just a generic LT-1, probably a crate motor.
Check out take-out motors from wrecked 2016 Camaros on eBay - definitely cast manifolds:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-LT1-CAMARO-ENGINE-WITH-2-679-MILES-practically-new-LT1-LS2-LS3-LS7-LS9-LSX-/152112383230?hash=item236a9ac4fe:g:wl4AAOSwMN9XQ6hZ&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-LT1-CAMARO-ENGINE-WITH-2-679-MILES-practically-new-LT1-LS2-LS3-LS7-LS9-LSX-/152112383230?hash=item236a9ac4fe:g:wl4AAOSwMN9XQ6hZ&vxp=mtr)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/K9IAAOSwepZXQ6hi/s-l1600.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 02, 2016, 08:59:25 PM
Those look a lot more like cast shorties than the log manifolds that I'd be installing.
And Ford doesn't know how to build a decent engine so that picture is irrelevant. :lol:
Ford has struggled a bit but what is in a GT500 (or LT4 or Hellcat) motor - $50MM? $100MM? Also considering noise and cost isn't really an issue on such motors, if headers helped or were otherwise a net positive, they would be on there.
How come engine masters competitions use long tubes?
OEM is not just worried about cost - there's also emissions, warranty, and manufacturing time. Cast parts are much easier to mass produce than headers. You should know this already.
If you buy me a set of manifolds, I'll install them and give you a full dyno comparison plus 0-60, 1/8, & 1/4 mile comparison. Maybe even an autox lap time comparison.
Quote from: GoCougs on June 03, 2016, 08:07:32 AM
Check out take-out motors from wrecked 2016 Camaros on eBay - definitely cast manifolds:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-LT1-CAMARO-ENGINE-WITH-2-679-MILES-practically-new-LT1-LS2-LS3-LS7-LS9-LSX-/152112383230?hash=item236a9ac4fe:g:wl4AAOSwMN9XQ6hZ&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-LT1-CAMARO-ENGINE-WITH-2-679-MILES-practically-new-LT1-LS2-LS3-LS7-LS9-LSX-/152112383230?hash=item236a9ac4fe:g:wl4AAOSwMN9XQ6hZ&vxp=mtr)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/K9IAAOSwepZXQ6hi/s-l1600.jpg)
What's under that heat shield looks like what I posted above.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 02, 2016, 08:59:25 PM
Those look a lot more like cast shorties than the log manifolds that I'd be installing.
And Ford doesn't know how to build a decent engine so that picture is irrelevant. :lol:
Quote from: GoCougs on June 03, 2016, 08:55:25 AM
Ford has struggled a bit but what is in a GT500 (or LT4 or Hellcat) motor - $50MM? $100MM? Also considering noise and cost isn't really an issue on such motors, if headers helped or were otherwise a net positive, they would be on there.
(http://s33.postimg.org/5kk2ovbj3/lotus_cortina_3138663k.jpg)
(http://s33.postimg.org/qqcwz4o0v/Shelby_AC_427_Cobra_vl_blue.jpg)
(http://s33.postimg.org/trhnf4g4f/5a95ba209cf8d46c637b1afc8138f9df.jpg)
:lol: You guys are just talking through your derrières.
...and that's not even scratching the surface of Ford racing over the decades. They planted the stars and stripes on every major racing circuit throughout the globe in every series. Take pride.
Quote from: MX793 on June 03, 2016, 09:42:58 AM
What's under that heat shield looks like what I posted above.
There are no mounting holes for the heat shield on the shorty you posted above. Also, on the pic I posed one can see those are castings underneath the heat shield, not tubes (i.e., there is a lot of material between adjacent ports, which is not the case with the shorty you posted).
Quote from: FoMoJo on June 03, 2016, 10:41:55 AM
:lol: You guys are just talking through your derrières.
...and that's not even scratching the surface of Ford racing over the decades. They planted the stars and stripes on every major racing circuit throughout the globe in every series. Take pride.
Sure Ford has rich history of racing but it wasn't because of their motors (which is the same for most any race program), and in general, factory racing programs bear virtually zero resemblance to what they put onto the street.
Quote from: GoCougs on June 03, 2016, 10:53:54 AM
Sure Ford has rich history of racing but it wasn't because of their motors (which is the same for most any race program), and in general, factory racing programs bear virtually zero resemblance to what they put onto the street.
Perhaps just as much now, but the racing programmes were the test beds for production upgrades; at least until they stopped building proper cars in the '70s. As for engines, yes it was because of their motors for the most part. Although the CSB was the choice of hot-rodders, the Windsor was the choice of most manufacturers who wanted an American V8 to stick inside of their Sports cars...even koenigsegg chose Ford's modular V8 as the basis for their first and subsequent exotics...fastest car in the world for a time.
Anyways, enough of disturbing this thread with posturing...but any poke deserves at least one rebuttal. ;)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 02, 2016, 08:59:25 PM
Those look a lot more like cast shorties than the log manifolds that I'd be installing.
Cougs digression.
Obviously you can cast a manifold that flows as well as a header. You need more wall thickness, but you can cast just about any shape you want. This is common sense.
The issue is that 50 year old manifolds were not designed for performance applications. I know Cougs likes being a contrarian, but sometimes conventional wisdom is correct.
Took the transmission apart for the second time in 2 years. Last time I used paper gaskets for the tail-housing and side cover, which leaked a lot. So this time it's gonna get gooey gasket maker. I also need to get a new speedo gear housing - currently it leaks gear oil into the speedo cable so the inner seal must be worn out. It's like $10 to fix so whatevs.
Good news is that the innards still look fresh as the day it rolled off the assembly line.
(http://i.imgur.com/pRWOKWu.jpg)
Quote from: FoMoJo on June 03, 2016, 11:27:40 AM
Perhaps just as much now, but the racing programmes were the test beds for production upgrades; at least until they stopped building proper cars in the '70s. As for engines, yes it was because of their motors for the most part. Although the CSB was the choice of hot-rodders, the Windsor was the choice of most manufacturers who wanted an American V8 to stick inside of their Sports cars...even koenigsegg chose Ford's modular V8 as the basis for their first and subsequent exotics...fastest car in the world for a time.
Anyways, enough of disturbing this thread with posturing...but any poke deserves at least one rebuttal. ;)
Oh, I see, the good ole poke-n-rebuttal ;).
There's not a Ford fanboy in the world that would claim the 427FE as a match for the 426 Hemi - on the street, on the strip or in NASCAR - yet, despite being less powerful Ford won plenty of races and titles with the 427FE, as there is a lot more that goes on than just motors - primarily, drivers and funding.
The Windsor has always played second fiddle to the small block Chevy and Mopars. In fact, as I'm sure you're well aware, the first thing serious Ford 'rodders do to their Windsor motors is install Chevy 2.02/1.60 valves and 5.7" con rods.
To this day, some 50 years hence and all sorts of cams and valves, Ford still can't best Chevy's ancient pooprod small block, and the new LT7 is going to set Ford back another 5-10 years.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 06, 2016, 06:00:28 PM
Took the transmission apart for the second time in 2 years. Last time I used paper gaskets for the tail-housing and side cover, which leaked a lot. So this time it's gonna get gooey gasket maker. I also need to get a new speedo gear housing - currently it leaks gear oil into the speedo cable so the inner seal must be worn out. It's like $10 to fix so whatevs.
Good news is that the innards still look fresh as the day it rolled off the assembly line.
(http://i.imgur.com/pRWOKWu.jpg)
Original?
Nah, the car was originally a 6 cylinder automatic. It probably came out of a late 70s Camaro. Earlier Saginaws have a thinner reverse gear. I've actually got one sitting in the garage. :lol:
Make sure it's not leaking out of the shift fork shaft O-rings. Our T-10 does that.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on June 06, 2016, 07:51:10 PM
Make sure it's not leaking out of the shift fork shaft O-rings. Our T-10 does that.
Too late... It's already bolted back together and isn't going to want to come apart once the gasket dries. :lol:
A crate with a piece of paper in it was delivered today.
(http://i.imgur.com/sg2mvMq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5wWVXcS.jpg)
Wow, she's a real revver.
:lol:
I talked with the Flotek guy about my heads. Apparently they needed longer pushrods than stock, so the geometry was off and it caused the valve to rub against the guide and break off. :facepalm: I can't remember who said to use stock length pushrods with those heads, but they can go jump off a cliff :rage:
But in other news, my new Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and Hedman headers came in the mail, along with a new driveshaft for the Camaro.
http://www.maperformance.com/products/aem-wideband-uego-air-fuel-ratio-gauge-30-4110?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CjwKEAjwp-S6BRDj4Z7z2IWUhG8SJAAbqbF32pG_V5T6082XB4SSjhiHEJjwelPPPRLrM4rwj106xxoCRyHw_wcB (http://www.maperformance.com/products/aem-wideband-uego-air-fuel-ratio-gauge-30-4110?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CjwKEAjwp-S6BRDj4Z7z2IWUhG8SJAAbqbF32pG_V5T6082XB4SSjhiHEJjwelPPPRLrM4rwj106xxoCRyHw_wcB)
I'm really tempted to order one of these. Could probably get it to work on both the car and motorcycle - would just need wiring disconnects and a sensor bung plug to swap it out.
Hedman has reducers/adapters with a bung already in place, so I wouldn't have to weld on my nice new ceramic coated headers.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-21134 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-21134)
Both engines are in. :rockon:
My engine got a new rear main seal (1 piece), oil pan gasket, and timing cover gasket. Also got a new Performer RPM manifold. Didn't go for the air-gap because I was worried it wouldn't warm up enough during the winter. I'll lose 1-2 hp during the summer, but who cares. I'll be keeping the 600 cfm carb, which should still work just fine. Quick calculations show that a high performance street engine uses ~570 cfm at 6500 rpm. Seems like lots of people over-carb and over-cam their engines.
The Hedman headers look like they'll fit great and have lots of spark plug clearance. They have nice thick flanges and overall I'm very impressed. The ceramic coating could be a bit thicker, but it's still miles better than the rusty painted ones I had before.
This week I'll have to get the transmission back into place and get all the accessories bolted up, but it should be smooth sailing.
I have to wait another day to get the transmission installed - had to order a throwout bearing from Summit. I also ordered different header collector adapters so I won't have to change my exhaust except for chop a few inches off and weld those on.
So while I wait, I decided to richen up the carb a bit. Here's a handy-dandy chart that I found today that'll make this a breeze.
(http://i.imgur.com/p5giVDA.png)
I was at #6 and the valves were a little white, so it needs more jet or less metering rod. Running just a little rich is pretty much ideal, so I'll pick #9 and see how it goes. I already have the .100" jet installed, so it just needs to swap the rod from 7052 to 6842. For the secondaries, I bumped the jets from .095" to .098" which is 1 stage richer. I also have a new accelerator pump that I've been meaning to install.
Today's fun event was trying to shove the transmission onto the back of the engine before a big thunderstorm rolled in. We didn't get it in time and ended up soaked to the bone, had to leave the tranny on the jack because it wouldn't go in the final 1/2". After the rain died down an hour or two later, we went back out to investigate and decided that the clutch must have misaligned itself at some point. I quickly hooked up the linkage and disengaged it while my dad wiggled the trans and got it to slip into place. Stupid clutch.
Had to pound on my pretty new headers today. :cry: The #1 cyl tube rubbed against the engine crossmember so I had to flatten it out for some clearance. Not too bad really, certainly less of a negative effect on air flow than the dings some headers need for spark plug clearance.
The Camaro should be fired up for the first time tomorrow, while this car could be tomorrow or Saturday.
I wouldn't have the guts to mutilate new part$.
There goes your ceramic coating. Ceramics don't bend.
Quote from: Laconian on June 17, 2016, 05:54:30 PM
I wouldn't have the guts to mutilate new part$.
They were only $450. :lol: :cry:
They're probably the nicest part on the car now. Almost too clean and pretty for the rest of it.
Quote from: MX793 on June 17, 2016, 05:55:57 PM
There goes your ceramic coating. Ceramics don't bend.
The coating held up a lot better than I thought it would. It's obviously worn down a bit, but I don't really care since it's facing the crossmember and isn't visible.
Small setback today - the rotor in my distributor is pretty burnt. It's just a Duralast part, probably can't handle the MSD ignition box. Will want to replace that before putting it back together.
The Camaro engine is running, but poorly. Backfires a lot unless you advance the timing a ton. Practically no intake vacuum. Best guess is that the valves are too tight.
Wow, sounds like you've researched the carb jetting and stuff pretty well. Getting tranny's in is traditionally a pain in the ass, so no worries.
I think I know what my distributor issue is. Stock HEI rotor bushings are too high resistance for the MSD coil and external module. MSD sells a low resistance bushing to resolve the heat issue.
https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8412-Low-Resistance-HEI-Bushing/dp/B00029JLDG (https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8412-Low-Resistance-HEI-Bushing/dp/B00029JLDG)
The Camaro engine is finally running well. It was backfiring like a bitch, which improved slightly when we figured out that we chalked the balancer in a different timing position than we thought. That helped it idle well, but it was still backfiring with any throttle movement - almost like the timing advance wasn't working. I have no idea how it fixed itself, all of the sudden it just started working well after we kept scratching our heads and fiddling with stuff. It sounds pretty gnarly now, gonna be a fun engine.
The dyno charts I posted last week are actually a bit lower than what the engine will be making now. They didn't use an airgap intake, had a less powerful ignition system, and possibly a smaller carb. The current setup should increase peak HP and move the torque curve a bit further up in the rev range, but considering that it makes 400+ lb-ft right off idle, that's nothing to worry about. :lol:
My engine lives! No problems starting up for me, timing was just about perfect and got the carb idle tuned nicely. The open headers sound amazing. :wub: It's too bad the :pullover: won't appreciate it much.
(http://i.imgur.com/qoPHckN.jpg)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXgKdMPt2f4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXgKdMPt2f4)
I apologize for the vertical video - it's from snapchat. This thing is SO loud. Like, deafening. Needs the mufflers hooked up ASAP. :lol: It drives well, will probably be a bit quicker once the exhaust is hooked up and allow for a bit more scavenging (H-pipe). The powerband is a little higher than the old engine - 1500 to 6500 is where it likes to live instead of idle to 5500. Probably a good thing for traction purposes.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 14, 2016, 06:08:48 PM
I have to wait another day to get the transmission installed - had to order a throwout bearing from Summit. I also ordered different header collector adapters so I won't have to change my exhaust except for chop a few inches off and weld those on.
So while I wait, I decided to richen up the carb a bit. Here's a handy-dandy chart that I found today that'll make this a breeze.
(http://i.imgur.com/p5giVDA.png)
I was at #6 and the valves were a little white, so it needs more jet or less metering rod. Running just a little rich is pretty much ideal, so I'll pick #9 and see how it goes. I already have the .100" jet installed, so it just needs to swap the rod from 7052 to 6842. For the secondaries, I bumped the jets from .095" to .098" which is 1 stage richer. I also have a new accelerator pump that I've been meaning to install.
After driving it yesterday, the spark plugs were a little white. I went ahead and richened the mixture by moving to spot #15 and increasing the secondary jet one size. I assume that the open headers are partially to blame for the lean condition, so I'll wait until the exhaust is fully hooked up to check the new setup.
I think the main tuning is good to go. I have a mild mid-throttle bog as well as a mild full-throttle bog that occurs when I open the secondaries. A stronger step-up spring on the primary metering rods might cure the part throttle hesitation while loosening the secondary spring screw might help the secondaries open quicker and eliminate the full throttle hesitation. Neither is really an issue on the street - in order to even open the secondaries in 2nd or 3rd, I have to commit to 80+ mph. :lol: This thing FLIES, and it's effortless. I would have gotten a million speeding tickets if I had this engine when I was a teenager.
What's the power difference?
~75 HP
Since I had tuned the carb for fuel economy on the old engine and never even touched the secondary jets, I think it could have been faster. But it's dead and I'll never know for sure.
Not bad.
What's your fuel economy now? :lol:
Quote from: Rupert on June 23, 2016, 01:30:36 PM
Not bad.
What's your fuel economy now? :lol:
3 city blocks.
Sounds about right...
:facepalm:
On Saturday I went down to the local tire shop to get some new rear tires. I had already looked up what I wanted on Tire Rack so I asked for a price match. They couldn't come down far enough ($442 total from tire rack, $475 if they ordered the tires for me) but I went ahead and had them ordered because I figured I would support a local business and maybe they would treat me better as well. False!
Tires were supposed to be at the shop on Monday afternoon, so I dropped off the wheels (wasn't going to let them touch the actual car) in the morning with the expectation that I could pick them up that evening. Nope! They ordered Conti DW, not DWS. So I had to wait until Tuesday before the correct tires could be delivered. Tuesday nights rolls around and they still weren't done. I called today (Wednesday) around noon and finally they were done. Went to go pick them up, have to explain that the guy I talked to on Saturday gave me a discount, and then while loading the wheels into the car we notice that there are nice new scratches on one wheel, in a nice circle pattern like the tire mounting machine decided to take a lick. :facepalm: Now I have to call them next week so they can fix it. So I paid them $50 extra to still screw things up.
UGH!
INCOMPETENT IDIOTS DIDN'T BALANCE MY WHEELS CORRECTLY EITHER.
I'm surprised the tires are mounted the correct direction, that's the only thing they got right.
I just had to get a new tire mounted onto one of the Mazda's wheels. I can't believe how fucking slow and stupid people are that work at tire shops. My friend and I could have been done in 10 minutes but it took these guys 40 minutes, AND they're fucking dumb enough to think it's ok to have wheel weights on the outside of painted wheels. Come on people.
(http://i.imgur.com/GqYV2hX.jpg)
:cry:
While autocrossing on Sunday, one of the alternator bolts backed out and apparently the alternator torqued enough that the front half hit the cooling fan, breaking it off and sending it flying into the hood. This pic is after I touched up the paint so it wouldn't be quite as obvious. Sometime this week I'll call the guy who painted the car to see if he can fix the dent.
Other than the alternator, the weekend was a great success. I came in 2nd or 3rd and ran very fast considering the all season DWS06 tires. With Rivals or RE-71Rs, I would have been within spitting range of the $200k quasi racecars. I'm very happy with how it performs now.
(http://i.imgur.com/we7vyvo.png)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on July 13, 2016, 06:02:31 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/GqYV2hX.jpg)
:cry:
While autocrossing on Sunday, one of the alternator bolts backed out and apparently the alternator torqued enough that the front half hit the cooling fan, breaking it off and sending it flying into the hood. This pic is after I touched up the paint so it wouldn't be quite as obvious. Sometime this week I'll call the guy who painted the car to see if he can fix the dent.
Is that a teardrop on the hood :(?
Saw that pic on protouring's IG
Quote from: FoMoJo on July 13, 2016, 08:40:28 PM
Is that a teardrop on the hood :(?
:lol:
:cry:
Quote from: 68_427 on July 13, 2016, 10:12:42 PM
Saw that pic on protouring's IG
Befriending photographers and giving them rides is a good way to get photos on IG :lol:
http://youtu.be/kPNXnYVrcUs
Nice.
Finally got my wheel balance issue fixed. Just in time before I drive 1600 miles next weekend. Woulda been annoying to have it shaking the whole way.
CAM Challenge at Grissom AFB, one of the top autox sites in the nation
(http://i.imgur.com/rjxvMxN.jpg)
Check out them shiny headers poking out behind the front tire :wub:
69 meant a completely different thing back in '69. Nice car, though. Is the helmet a requirement?
Quote from: shp4man on August 16, 2016, 07:32:02 PM
69 meant a completely different thing back in '69. Nice car, though. Is the helmet a requirement?
LOL it still does. I kept those number magnets on the fridge door last year and my roommate walked in and immediately started giggling at the innuendo.
Helmet is required for all SCCA races, but not for the Goodguys or NSRA events.
I swapped the rear springs from 175 lb to 300 lb. Should help a lot with hauling the motorcycle and other junk. I also needed to increase the rate to get rid of the squat under acceleration. The sway bars keep the body roll under control but I've been struggling to keep the squat and dive to a minimum. There's only so much stiff shocks can do for that. I'm going to increase the front rate from 550 lb to 650 lb as well, which should help prevent the corner-entry oversteer I get sometimes. Add in a front chassis brace to limit flex, and it should ride better as well.
In further preparation for motorcycle hauling, I bolted in some eyebolts. Same thing I mounted my racing harnesses with. Big 3" washers behind them. A little bit beefier than the stock one in the picture.
(http://i.imgur.com/0dHmgIc.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/im6BpOl.jpg)
Looks like the oil leak was from the valve cover. That's a relief. I was worried about the main rear seal that I just replaced before putting the engine in.
I'll be getting a new steering wheel for Christmas. Black suede with a yellow stripe. :wub:
I'm debating a transmission swap, again. A Richmond 5 speed box doesn't have an overdrive, but it has a 3.27 first gear. So I'd swap the rear end from 3.36 to 3.08 or 2.73 and get the same or better first gear plus better highway rpm. It's also a much stronger transmission than my Saginaw.
Is it a four speed right now?
Yes. First gear is 2.85, fourth is 1:1.
T56 6 speed or bust!
I'd have to cut the floor up to fit one. A TKO500 or TKO600 would have a better chance of fitting.
Richmond also makes an overdrive 5 speed.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rmg-7020526b/overview/
This has a better ratio spread for my purposes. With a 3.55 rearend, I'd increase my overall 1st gear ratio from 9.5 to 10.2 while also dropping highway rpms by 500 rpm @ 70 (3000 to 2450). 3000 rpm is generally my comfortable upper limit for extended driving, which would be 86 mph with that setup. Much better.
They are also available with a 3.06 1st gear. With that, I could keep my 3.36 rearend and get the same overall ratio in 1st and have even better highway cruising rpms. However, 2nd gear is the same ratio so it'd be a bigger leap from 1st to 2nd.
Two header bolts fell out this weekend. :rage:
They didn't even give any warning. No exhaust leaks until they fell out.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 13, 2016, 04:40:07 PM
Two header bolts fell out this weekend. :rage:
They didn't even give any warning. No exhaust leaks until they fell out.
Dude, header bolts always fall out. You should know better.
Well I ordered stainless ARP replacements. Stage 8 would be the best but I'm a poor college student.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on November 28, 2016, 06:58:35 PM
I'll be getting a new steering wheel for Christmas. Black suede with a yellow stripe. :wub:
(http://i.imgur.com/GFq8obxm.jpg?1)
Nice stripe.
Now you'll know which way is forward.
I need new front tires. I got new DWS06 on the rear a few months ago. But now I'm looking at options and see the BFG Comp-2 A/S have good reviews and are $20 cheaper per tire. Will it look dumb having different tires front/rear? :hmm:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 27, 2016, 04:37:47 PM
I need new front tires. I got new DWS06 on the rear a few months ago. But now I'm looking at options and see the BFG Comp-2 A/S have good reviews and are $20 cheaper per tire. Will it look dumb having different tires front/rear? :hmm:
Yes.
You don't have to answer if you don't want to, but about how much do you have invested in the El Camino so far?
The sidewalls almost look like Rivals.
(http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/attachments/wheels-tires/329265d1434482682-new-bfgoodrich-g-force-comp2-s-tires-tires.jpg)
Eh. Not feeling it.
Quote from: shp4man on December 27, 2016, 04:55:05 PM
You don't have to answer if you don't want to, but about how much do you have invested in the El Camino so far?
Too much. :lol:
I haven't kept track so I'm not sure, but I think it's still under $19k. That's spread out over the 8 years I've owned it.
Anyway, the only tires that look like they belong on that car are BFG Radial T/A with white letters out. They are crap tires, though. I would go with Dunlops Direzzas.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 27, 2016, 05:05:29 PM
Too much. :lol:
I haven't kept track so I'm not sure, but I think it's still under $19k. That's spread out over the 8 years I've owned it.
You're still in the positive on it, I'm thinking. :ohyeah:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on December 27, 2016, 05:05:29 PM
Too much. :lol:
I haven't kept track so I'm not sure, but I think it's still under $19k. That's spread out over the 8 years I've owned it.
That's not bad!!!
BFG's are ordered.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 08, 2017, 05:45:42 PM
BFG's are ordered.
Radial T/A, the best tire because the letters are fucking white.
(https://cdn1.mecum.com/auctions/da1116/da1116-255338/images/da1116-255338_3.jpg)
I sold my 15" wheels like 3 years ago.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 08, 2017, 05:50:45 PM
I sold my 15" wheels like 3 years ago.
Dude, how do you even drive without 15" wheels? 15 is the best size for wheels on anything and everything. Versa S has 15" wheels.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on January 08, 2017, 05:56:43 PM
Dude, how do you even drive without 15" wheels? 15 is the best size for wheels on anything and everything. Versa S has 15" wheels.
Hell, my Jeep had 15" wheels and 33" tires.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on January 08, 2017, 06:33:44 PM
Hell, my Jeep had 15" wheels and 33" tires.
Yeah man. I'm riding on 15" wheels with 24" tires. It's all good.
18s with 25s. Purrfection.
Get out of town. You can't just drive around on three inch sidewalls and get away with it.
It's okay it's more like 3.7 inches
Tires got here a day early. :rockon:
I took the old steering wheel off. New wheel has more dish to it, so I ordered a .5" adapter to replace the current 2" adapter.
I expect burnout pics/vids of old tires.
I'm only replacing the fronts. :lol:
I spy a slight problem.
(http://i.imgur.com/YRjqoCs.jpg)
If you put that on a turntable and play at 45 RPM, you can hear the sound of your wallet getting lighter.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 12, 2017, 11:44:40 AM
I spy a slight problem.
(http://i.imgur.com/YRjqoCs.jpg)
The wheel's missing?
Quote from: FoMoJo on January 12, 2017, 11:50:15 AM
The wheel's missing?
The top caliper bolt fell out. No clue how long it's been missing.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 12, 2017, 11:55:28 AM
The top caliper bolt fell out. No clue how long it's been missing.
It was just a spare anyway.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 12, 2017, 11:55:28 AM
The top caliper bolt fell out. No clue how long it's been missing.
Yell at the mechanic.
YEAH SCREW ME
I tried, but the bolts I bought at autozone didn't have a metal sleeve. Need to go back and get that.
The outer pad dug into the hub part of the single piece rotor, about 1 mm deep. I think it'll be okay but next brake job I'll replace the rotor.
Tires are mounted and balanced. First shop couldn't reverse mount them like they need to be, so I took it to Discount Tire and they did it for me. The guy there probably didn't like me much since I ordered the tires from Tire Rack instead of buying from them. :lol:
I buy on Tire Rack as well, then bring them to my friends shop and put them on myself.
(http://media.nbcchicago.com/images/652*489/Baby+Chickens.jpg)
CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP
1/2" steering adapter is too short, should have known better. :hammerhead:
Not a big deal, I had a 6 bolt spacer sitting around so I tossed that on as well. It's probably 1/2" as well. The wheel has a ~1" deeper dish than the old wheel, so it should sit in the exact same spot. I just need to run to the hardware store tomorrow to get the correct length buttonhead screws and it'll be ready to go.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 12, 2017, 05:52:47 PM
I tried, but the bolts I bought at autozone didn't have a metal sleeve. Need to go back and get that.
The outer pad dug into the hub part of the single piece rotor, about 1 mm deep. I think it'll be okay but next brake job I'll replace the rotor.
Tires are mounted and balanced. First shop couldn't reverse mount them like they need to be, so I took it to Discount Tire and they did it for me. The guy there probably didn't like me much since I ordered the tires from Tire Rack instead of buying from them. :lol:
'Da faq did you get reverse mount wheels fur?
Wheel is on. Tach is moved to a better spot - saw the Roadkill Garage guys put it on the left side of the column and realized if I put it on the right side, I could see all the stock gauges and the turn signals again. Rotated it so the sweep is a perfect 180 degrees.
(http://i.imgur.com/3V9JYdW.jpg)
ur numbrs is sideways
Been reading up on bumpsteer. Looks like the tie rod location on A-body spindles is too low, so raising it up 0.5" or so will help eliminate bumpsteer. Best way to do this is with a tall lower ball joint. I already have a tall upper ball joint, but didn't replace the lowers since they're press-in. Autozone should have a ball joint press (big C-clamp) to make that job bearable.
Eliminating bumpsteer should help stability under heavy braking and obviously mid-corner bumps. The tall ball joints should also further improve camber curve and roll center.
Maybe get new spindles with race car geometry. Extendo balljoint could be sketchee, eh?
New spindles are $1k plus the cost of C5 brakes. Otherwise I would do that. Howe ball joints are supposed to be stronger than stock even though they're taller. They better be since they're $80 each.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 01, 2017, 08:37:14 AM
New spindles are $1k plus the cost of C5 brakes. Otherwise I would do that. Howe ball joints are supposed to be stronger than stock even though they're taller. They better be since they're $80 each.
Okay, coool.
still shud get spindls n c5 bakes
New breather. I've been getting a bit of oil coming out of the PCV gasket and onto the other valve cover. Not sure if that was due to choked breathing or if it needs a tighter gasket. Went with a larger K&N breather as Step 1, if it still leaks I'll get a new gasket.
(http://i.imgur.com/dOUmEpNl.jpg)
Much breath
(http://i.imgur.com/JrOF9obm.jpg)
Blow by, man
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on February 06, 2017, 06:48:32 PM
Blow by, man
Should be going into the intake, not onto my pretty valve cover!
Jealous of this camber curve. Need more money for fancy parts...
(http://i.imgur.com/A4g0gn9.png)
Apparently O'Reilly's has Wix oil filters. I did not know this before.
O'Reilly gives me many free tiny screwdrivers.
(http://i.imgur.com/FWRd90j.png)
I happened to notice this paragraph in my ignition box manual. I wonder if that's the cause of the run on/dieseling that occurs occasionally. Problem is, I installed the ignition two years ago on the other engine and it never had a problem. Only on my current engine, which also has a higher compression ratio. Maybe it's only getting enough current for a weak spark after shut down, which combines with the high compression to fire a couple times? And the spark just wasn't strong enough to do anything on the lower compression engine.
Going on 5 hours for my front end refresh. Can't get the damn lower ball joints out. Need to take the lower control arm off, but can't get one of the bolts off. Gonna have to buy an electric impact wrench.
Btw the ball joint press from autozone is garbage. It's not big enough to get both sides around the ball joint.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 21, 2017, 10:00:04 AM
Btw the ball joint press from autozone is garbage. It's not big enough to get both sides around the ball joint.
So ball joints are outside of my toolset. Actually messed up one of the new ones, just a $70 mistake :facepalm:
Changing plans, just gonna get stock replacement BJs and take them to a shop to get installed. My camber curve won't improve but I am also replacing the upper control arm bolts so I'll be able to get more caster than before, along with the current -1.5* camber. (The previous plan was to back the camber down to -0.75* to get more caster. The decreased camber was going to be offset by the improved camber curve)
Uber'd to autozone to get stock style ball joints and then uber'd to a shop to get them pressed in. Got the driver's side lower arm reinstalled, need to get the passenger side done today. After that, just need to go back and swap the driver's side upper arm. I'm saving that for last because I'll need to disconnect the steering column and I'm lazy.
New springs. 650 lb instead of 550 lb.
(http://i.imgur.com/vMdk3Sf.jpg)
New (old) upper control arms. The dirty ones prevent the suspension from drooping fully. I got a little more caster with them, but it makes coilover adjustment a PITA since the preload is too high.
(http://i.imgur.com/91nrY6e.jpg)
Finished!
The stiffer springs seem to actually ride better. It's more planted and controlled.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 25, 2017, 10:51:01 PM
Finished!
The stiffer springs seem to actually ride better. It's more planted and controlled.
:cheers:
Yesterday was another frustrating couple of hours. I was going to swap the new billet tie rod adjusters on, but had a ton of trouble with the tie rod and then my measurement was off so I thought they were too short to get the right toe adjustment. I ended up putting the stock adjuster back on and that's when I realized my measurement was way off somehow, since the wheel was hella toed in.
Today I had the great idea to leave the tie rod end hooked up and just toe the bitch all the way out until the adjuster came off. We'll see if I can get the new ones on now.
Done.
(http://i.imgur.com/SBK38c7m.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/yEOplqol.jpg)
Best alignment possible was -1.1 camber, 4.1 caster. Good enough. Car drives great.
Finally replaced the bent fuel pump yesterday. Went ahead and upgraded from a rubber line to an aluminum hard line while I was at it. Much pretty, very like.
(http://i.imgur.com/epazpEf.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 18, 2017, 06:40:44 PM
Finally replaced the bent fuel pump yesterday. Went ahead and upgraded from a rubber line to an aluminum hard line while I was at it. Much pretty, very like.
(http://i.imgur.com/epazpEf.jpg)
Nice!
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 18, 2017, 06:40:44 PM
Finally replaced the bent fuel pump yesterday. Went ahead and upgraded from a rubber line to an aluminum hard line while I was at it. Much pretty, very like.
(http://i.imgur.com/epazpEf.jpg)
Whats the Coke bottle for???????
Radiator puke tank.
Windshield washer fluid.
Radiator overflow is at the bottom of the pic, round black half circle
http://www.rallylights.com/h5006-hella-5-3-4-round-e-code-hi-lo-conversion-headlamp-kit.html
Me gusta.
I think I fixed the poor radio reception. I have a little black box antenna stuck on the windshield next to the passenger A-pillar. Reception has always been so-so unless you're within 10 miles of the station. My two suspicions were the location and the power/ground wire. I tried to pull out the Motorola plug from the headunit and the wire pulled out, so I think a poor solder connection was the culprit. Ordered a non-solder plug from RadioShack and reception seems much improved. :praise:
Radio reception is not improved. Might try a different antenna.
Bigger issue: One of the brackets for the clutch Z-bar broke while I was driving this evening, rendering the clutch pedal useless. Was able to get it home without too much trouble, but obviously turning the car off at every stop light is not a good solution. :lol: I think I found the correct bracket on Summit so I went ahead and ordered it. Hopefully it'll just bolt in.
Fun fact: clutchless upshifts were actually way smoother than when I use the clutch. Downshifts were horrible though.
Z bar. My truck has one of those! ;)
New bracket is on. A little annoying to access but not terrible. She lives again!
Couple new things under the hood:
(http://i.imgur.com/4obg53X.jpg)
New air filter element that fills out the air cleaner better (full 14" diameter instead of like 13.5") and the red matches the new breather I put on last month.
Also a chrome radiator top support. Old black was always dirty looking.
The other yellow fog light went out. Apparently they don't last very long. Should I replace it with another yellow, or put the white lights back on? I'm probably gonna install LED low/high beams as the outside lights, so the center lights are mostly just for looks.
Current look, with yellow fogs:
(http://i.imgur.com/CM44czHl.jpg)
Stock look, white hi beams:
(http://i.imgur.com/9641auVl.jpg)
I like the look of the yellows.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 14, 2017, 10:57:06 PM
The other yellow fog light went out. Apparently they don't last very long. Should I replace it with another yellow, or put the white lights back on? I'm probably gonna install LED low/high beams as the outside lights, so the center lights are mostly just for looks.
Current look, with yellow fogs:
(http://i.imgur.com/CM44czHl.jpg)
Stock look, white hi beams:
(http://i.imgur.com/9641auVl.jpg)
I think you should put the clear lights back and paint the car a bright shiny red. :huh:
I like the Yellows! And good call on the LEDs! I find that the LEDs in my fogs are just as bright as any HID Kit I've had! All while not melting the housing in the process!
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on June 17, 2017, 09:18:39 AM
I like the Yellows! And good call on the LEDs! I find that the LEDs in my fogs are just as bright as any HID Kit I've had! All while not melting the housing in the process!
Yeah, the LEDs should be a huge upgrade. The housings have a much sharper cutoff and beam spread, plus the LEDs are bright and won't draw as much power.
This is one of the best upgrades I've installed. It's just a simple frame brace that ties the front frame rails together and also triangulates them with the engine crossmember. The test drive showed markedly improved ride quality. There's less crashiness over bumps as the frame can't twist. The steering is less affected as well.
(http://i.imgur.com/513XdTel.jpg)
Just got the brace back from the powder coater.
(http://i.imgur.com/ilqabri.jpg)
Final install. Much easier to see in this pic.
(http://i.imgur.com/Hrbdtak.jpg)
I had a little fun coming home from work last week and went maybe 3/4 throttle in 2nd gear, coming out of a corner. Since then, it's been a bit difficult to get it into 2nd or 3rd when I'm not just upshifting normally. Double clutching is now necessary to downshift into 2nd. And it's making a lot of gear whine in 1st-3rd. Apparently this is a sign of input shaft bearing wear. 4th is unaffected since it's 1:1 and locks the input shaft to the output.
I'm now trying to figure out what to do. I could
1. try to rebuild current transmission, not 100% sure I can get the correct parts. If I can, it'd be $200 + time and hoping I don't screw it up
2. get an already rebuilt Saginaw for ~$300-400
3. get a Muncie for $900, same size and everything, but stronger. Negative: taller 1st & still no overdrive
4. get a TKO500 for $2400 + cut floorboards up and shorten the driveshaft and get a new 26 spline clutch
5. switch to an automatic. 700R4 gives me a lower 1st and an overdrive gear. would need a torque converter, trans cooler, shifter, and little bits and pieces, but $2k seems possible. http://www.monstertransmission.com/700R4-HD-Transmission-Master-Conversion-Package-2WD_p_5055.html
I'm leaning toward #5.
You're going to automatic swap your car? :cry:
I guess the girl wants to drive it :huh:.
When you have a 400 hp V8, the transmission doesn't really matter - it's a ton of fun either way. The current manual isn't really all that great - long throws and not much precision. A TKO would be better, but I'm not really in the mood to cut up the floorboards.
I'm also spoiled by the VW and my bike, which both rev faster and make it fun. I never do blip-throttle downshifts in the El Camino because it revs too slowly. A lighter flywheel might solve that, but I wouldn't know until after spending $2800
An auto swap is gonna be a lot of work and still a lot of money - about $3k. A TKO600 would be about $4k.
Might just find a Muncie. M20 or a M22W if I wanna be a cool kid with a rock crusher.
(http://i.imgur.com/MLIfCQ2.jpg)
I also got a Hurst shifter and linkage from the guy. No clue what car it's meant for, but it should work. It's not like my car is stock. Neither the current shift location or floorboards were original...
So what the heck is it?
Son, I am disappoint.
It's a wide ratio Muncie. Pretty fresh rebuild. Should swap right in without any changes.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 12, 2017, 01:22:08 PM
Son, I am disappoint.
It's a wide ratio Muncie. Pretty fresh rebuild. Should swap right in without any changes.
Okay, good for you.
From the ad:
"M-20 4 speed with less than 800 miles. Rebuilt per specs. The following are new parts: syncros, reverse main shaft gear, reverse idler, torque lock sliders, cluster gear shaft (1"), main shaft plug, gland nut, shifter fork, thick front bearing retainer, all new bearings, syncro key set, gaskets and seals. Main housing number = 3885010, tail housing = 3857584, side cover = 3884685. No cracks and no stripped threads."
I think it's out of a 1967 model year vehicle. Has studs for the shift linkage instead of bolts.
Took the Saginaw out yesterday and got the Muncie installed today. Not a particularly tough job. They're both pretty light, so I just bench pressed the old one out and basically benched the new one in too (I did use the jack to hold it up after I got it in the general area - needed both hands for aligning and wiggling it into place)
The new shifter is about half an inch further back, so I need to trim the shifter hump a little bit. Currently can't get into 2nd or 4th :lol: That + another bottle of gear oil and it'll be ready to go.
I'd like to yank the SM420 out of the old truck and rebuild it, too. Just too lazy. ;)
Shifter might get a bit annoying since it's so short. Good motivation to finally lower the seat?
Duct tape an old ruler to it. Bam.
I like the way you think.
I finally got around to buying a fire extinguisher. 2.5lb Halon bottle. Probably could have gotten a smaller one... It's yuggggee.
How are you going to mount it?
Probably bolt it to the floor between the seats. It's too big to mount it vertical on the subwoofer box. And the floor mat gets in the way of mounting it in front of the driver's seat.
Oh, and an update on the shifter - I replaced the short one with the old taller one. Much better.
A piece of the dashboard trim - the part that goes under the steering column - was missing a screw. Apparently that was enough to cause crazy rattles. I finally put the screw back in place and the NVH is much improved. Should have done that a couple years ago. :banghead:
(https://i.imgur.com/08zCUBw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gMDR9vS.jpg)
How big/small is that extinguisher?
2.5 lbs
It looks tiny.
That's a 10" subwoofer, for reference.
About the size of an aerosol paint can?
About an inch wider in diameter and a few inches taller.
I have the same one with the same bracket. :lol: Mounted to the box in the back of the XTerra. Also recently finally fixed the annoying rattle from said box.
What song is a better theme song?
https://youtu.be/YUXH2DqVOC8
https://youtu.be/fGeNDnYcQOA
Abusadora would be a good name for the car... We abuse each other equally. But Eazy mentions an Elco...
I replaced the horn relay with a modern 30A relay. There were 4 wires going into the horn relay, so I just wired them up to the 4 wires of the new relay. Fail! Doesn't work. Played around with a test lead to figure out which of the switch wires needed to be grounded or positived. Turns out the pink wire actually goes to a buzzer for the ignition key, which no longer exists. Ancient relic! If I cut that wire & run it to the positive post, it'll work as intended.
As originally wired, the horn relay had like 3 different jobs - run the horns, the door/key buzzer, and something to do with the alternator charging wire. We re-wired the whole charging system a couple years ago, so that's not an issue.
Just realized that Photobucket ruined the first half of my thread. :rage:
I need to find a job so I can upgrade to this.
http://www.kicker.com/cxa6001-600-watt-mono-amplifier
Or this one could power everything. Idk how it's so cheap, but it has good reviews. Front 6.5s need 70 RMS, rear 6x9s can go up to 110 RMS. I think my sub is 300 RMS, 1000 max. I currently have a super old cheapo 4 channel amp just running the sub. The sub can be pretty muddy (depends on the song - some songs hit hard and clean), so I think it might just be the cheap amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9605/Pioneer-GM-D9605.html?tp=35808
I need to replace a front rotor and one of the pads. Might as well upgrade to grabbier pads while I'm at it. Hawk HPS or Wilwood BP-20 are what I'm mainly looking at.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 11, 2018, 01:42:12 PM
Or this one could power everything. Idk how it's so cheap, but it has good reviews. Front 6.5s need 70 RMS, rear 6x9s can go up to 110 RMS. I think my sub is 300 RMS, 1000 max. I currently have a super old cheapo 4 channel amp just running the sub. The sub can be pretty muddy (depends on the song - some songs hit hard and clean), so I think it might just be the cheap amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9605/Pioneer-GM-D9605.html?tp=35808
That's a sweet amp for the price. Plenty of power for what you need. You're honestly never sending more than five or ten watts to a speaker (subs more like 40 to 60) unless you're cranking it. But matching RMS values is an ideal way to choose so you get nice clean power all around. Always good to have the proper power on tap.
I'm feelin' the Wilwood BP-10 pad. It's got better initial bite than the BP-10 and a nice flat curve over the temp range. That means it'll be consistent and provide similar braking throughout an autocross course, where the brakes start cold and at most get to the 500F area.
The E compound is an excellent choice as well, but will be noisier, dustier, and more expensive. I think I'm gonna try the BP-10s first and see if they're enough of an improvement for me.
(https://i.imgur.com/3zHsUoJ.jpg)
Wow. Buy American.
You're right. I will be installing Hello Kitty JDM pads.
https://corbeau.com/sport-fixed-back/fx1-pro.html
These are tempting. My current seats (Mazda3 buckets) sit too high.
Or I might just get a Kirkey pro drag. And a padded cover.
Wow it's been a while since I posted something here.
I might have finally fixed the leaky gas cap. It's had a "capless" cap with a flap to stick the pump through, but it didn't seal very well and I'd spill some gas when I turned right (#onlyturnleft). I got a regular gas cap and had to do some modifying to get it to fit with the door and stuff, but it seems to seal as long as I make sure it's super tight.
Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/Z5a3r0O.jpg)
New:
(https://i.imgur.com/BED5N7L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gaTyfo3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OMZ7mqj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8ZKu7lY.jpg)
1: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/CV07A-18095-black-red-stripe-rims-for-Corvette-C6-Z06-style-wheels
or
2: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/CV05-D18095-deep-dish-black-rims-fit-Corvette-C5-style
or
3: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/CV07A-18095-black-machined-rims-for-Chevrolet-Corvette-C6-Z06-style-wheels
or
4: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/Corvette-C5-Deep-Dish-Wheel-Black_6
1 I guess? None of those are great though
Cheap & easy way to mount BFG Rivals. That's all.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 25, 2018, 10:15:38 PM
1: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/CV07A-18095-black-red-stripe-rims-for-Corvette-C6-Z06-style-wheels
or
2: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/CV05-D18095-deep-dish-black-rims-fit-Corvette-C5-style
or
3: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/CV07A-18095-black-machined-rims-for-Chevrolet-Corvette-C6-Z06-style-wheels
or
4: https://www.oewheelsllc.com/Corvette-C5-Deep-Dish-Wheel-Black_6
If it's for the El Camino, number 2, though, generically, number 1 is more attractive.
I'm not a fan of black wheels so I would take number 3.
These are my favorite (design + color) but they don't have 18x9.5" like I want.
https://www.oewheelsllc.com/19-Fits-Chevrolet-C7-Z06-Wheel-Gunmetal-19x10
(https://www.oewheelsllc.com/assets/products/19-Fits-Chevrolet-C7-Z06-Wheel-Gunmetal-19x10_main-1.jpg?resizeid=5&resizeh=1000&resizew=1000)
Or there are these. No spacers needed.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vsw-s0183
(https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/vsw-s0174_us_ml.jpg?rep=False)
Your #2 choice has a nice 'mechanical' look to it, that would suit an old beast like your El Camino. Those spindly, delicate looking wheels just don't look right.
Wheels and tires are ordered. :rockon:
275s on all corners!
(https://i.imgur.com/EV0nNsF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DmvU0x6.jpg)
Dope!!!
Nice. :ohyeah:
Nice deep dish.
Quote from: giant_mtb on March 15, 2019, 07:42:12 AM
Nice deep dish.
Like a Chicago pizza.
Brah, ur tires got, like, no tread. :lol:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on March 15, 2019, 08:20:19 AM
Brah, ur tires got, like, no tread. :lol:
And I also can't drive on them under like 40 F. Basically useless.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 15, 2019, 09:49:51 AM
And I also can't drive on them under like 40 F. Basically useless.
You must have to do warmup laps around the neighborhood before taking it out on the highway
I still need to test fit them. Hopefully they fit :lol:
(If they don't fit, I'll make them fit)
New windshield is finally installed, after sitting in my living room for a month. No more Chinese water torture dripping.
(https://i.imgur.com/F4GxNyQ.jpg)
Tires don't rub at all. Win.
(https://i.imgur.com/lTuM5dk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9YAsddQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YiHCYhd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Bv9v0S3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G8ci5s0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Bkakk5W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cRSZ5nX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gqo6p74.jpg)
^^Not bad :ohyeah:.
Very nice. LS3 engine next?
Quote from: shp4man on March 17, 2019, 12:06:28 PM
Very nice. LS3 engine next?
And a 2 speed powerglide with a tight converter ... for autocross! :muffin:
Quote from: shp4man on March 17, 2019, 12:06:28 PM
Very nice. LS3 engine next?
Nah, engine is pretty good. Might need a rebuild in a year or two (rings, valves, etc) but I'd either just do a simple rebuild or get a Blueprint 350 or 383 crate engine. I already have all the accessories and parts for a SBC so swapping to LS would lead to a lot of wasted parts.
Next big project is a posi rear end and tubular control arms in the rear. Trying to decide if I can find an 8.5 10 bolt or if I'll need to get a 12 bolt or Ford 9". The 8.5 10 bolts are just as strong as a 12 bolt but without the higher price tag. But most of them are set up for leaf springs instead of the Chevelle 4-link
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 17, 2019, 12:29:55 PM
Nah, engine is pretty good. Might need a rebuild in a year or two (rings, valves, etc) but I'd either just do a simple rebuild or get a Blueprint 350 or 383 crate engine. I already have all the accessories and parts for a SBC so swapping to LS would lead to a lot of wasted parts.
Next big project is a posi rear end and tubular control arms in the rear. Trying to decide if I can find an 8.5 10 bolt or if I'll need to get a 12 bolt or Ford 9". The 8.5 10 bolts are just as strong as a 12 bolt but without the higher price tag. But most of them are set up for leaf springs instead of the Chevelle 4-link
I'll trade you my 8.5 10 bolt for your piece of crap engine that needs rebuilding. I'll even throw in a bonus 4.3 V6 that you can put a turbouwe on and blow up for fun.
I noticed that one of the street wheels has a messed up lug nut seat. Ordered a new wheel, new brake rotors, bearing kit, and new pads. My bank account = dead.
Gonna try out Wilwood BP-10 pads on the front. They have a very flat friction curve, so it should be great for autox brake feel consistency.
Waite. Are you trying to do independent rear suspension? You should just swap the whole rear subframe from a late model Camaro.
No. It has a triangulated 4-link solid axle.
Boring. Get IRS. McDonalds struts from a Subaru would even work.
Continuing the assault on my bank account. Current power steering pump is leaky, so I ordered another one. Also ordered a flow reducer to go from 3 gpm to 2 gpm, a new pressure hose, a fluid cooler, a press-on pulley, and 2 quarts of Redline power steering fluid. All in the name of reducing groans from the pump after autox runs, especially now that I have sticky 275's up front.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 22, 2019, 09:36:31 PM
Continuing the assault on my bank account. Current power steering pump is leaky, so I ordered another one. Also ordered a flow reducer to go from 3 gpm to 2 gpm, a new pressure hose, a fluid cooler, a press-on pulley, and 2 quarts of Redline power steering fluid. All in the name of reducing groans from the pump after autox runs, especially now that I have sticky 275's up front.
You have power steering? What kind of race car is that? :lol:
(https://i.imgur.com/ye1dG9G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w9WzcH5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dp2NWq3.jpg)
I hope you beat that silly Ford economy car.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 22, 2019, 09:36:31 PM
Continuing the assault on my bank account. Current power steering pump is leaky, so I ordered another one. Also ordered a flow reducer to go from 3 gpm to 2 gpm, a new pressure hose, a fluid cooler, a press-on pulley, and 2 quarts of Redline power steering fluid. All in the name of reducing groans from the pump after autox runs, especially now that I have sticky 275's up front.
So the flow reducer didn't fit, so the new system is just a new pump, hose, cooler, and good fluid. The system hasn't made a noise at all, even after autox runs, so I think it's good to go. Only worse situation would be 100+ degrees for autox, which I haven't done yet. But since I have electric fans, having them running between runs should cool it down well.
Current project is fixing the 2-3 shift grind. I'm not sure if it's a weak syncro, the fault of the shifter not being adjusted perfectly, or both. I tried to install a new reverse gear lever but I think the linkage rod is also the wrong one for my shifter. I ordered a new one that should work, maybe next weekend I can install it.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on July 21, 2019, 04:24:24 PM
So the flow reducer didn't fit, so the new system is just a new pump, hose, cooler, and good fluid. The system hasn't made a noise at all, even after autox runs, so I think it's good to go. Only worse situation would be 100+ degrees for autox, which I haven't done yet. But since I have electric fans, having them running between runs should cool it down well.
Current project is fixing the 2-3 shift grind. I'm not sure if it's a weak syncro, the fault of the shifter not being adjusted perfectly, or both. I tried to install a new reverse gear lever but I think the linkage rod is also the wrong one for my shifter. I ordered a new one that should work, maybe next weekend I can install it.
What trans is it?
Muncie M20
The reverse rod is too short for the shifter I'm currently using. I have another shifter that it would work for, but that shifter is too short. I think it was out of a Corvette, not a Chevelle, so the seating position is different
Got the new rod installed today. Works great. Now I can tweak the adjustments to hopefully get rid of that grind
Connecting rod. Metering rod. Push rod. Tie rod. Panhard rod. So many rods!!
The last Corbeau's I bought didn't work out. But these look good. Side mount and the bottom cushion/frame is nice and thin. Should give me another inch or two of headroom and get my eye level under the rear view mirror. I went to a local shop that sells them and sat in one today. Pretty comfy. Just can't gain more than like 10 lbs. :lol:
https://corbeau.com/sport-fixed-back/dfx.html
(https://corbeau.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/f/dfx-web-01.jpg)
EDIT: Nevermind, it's right in the link. $300? Seems too cheap to be decent
Yeah but I'm not spending $800/seat for Sparco Evo III's. Gotta save my money for a TKO600 transmission and Ford 9" rear end (3.70 gears and TruTrac LSD)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 02, 2020, 09:22:41 AM
Yeah but I'm not spending $800/seat for Sparco Evo III's. Gotta save my money for a TKO600 transmission and Ford 9" rear end (3.70 gears and TruTrac LSD)
What do you need the 9" diff for? Planning to add more power?
Quote from: FoMoJo on March 02, 2020, 09:30:08 AM
What do you need the 9" diff for? Planning to add more power?
Current rear end doesn't have a limited slip and it's only a 10 Bolt. Instead of spending money on adding a posi and changing the ring gear, and then still having a weaker 10 Bolt that could potentially break, it's only a little bit more money to buy a brand new 9" that's set up exactly the way I want. Most aftermarket companies use 9" so it's harder to find 12 Bolts and they're a bit more expensive.
Ha, nice Ford Ranchero. :evildude:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on March 02, 2020, 11:00:51 AM
Ha, nice Ford Ranchero. :evildude:
I think TKO's are based on Ford Mustang transmissions too.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 02, 2020, 11:04:58 AM
I think TKO's are based on Ford Mustang transmissions too.
Might as well drop in a nice FE and complete the set then.
Ecob00st 3.5 swap!
Nope. Small block is staying. Might get a Holley Sniper EFI kit and might turn into a 383 stroker, but no LS and definitely no stinkin' Ford.
I snapped both front spindles yesterday during an autocross. I thought I hit a cone and it got stuck in the fenderwell, but then saw this carnage when I got out of the car after being red-flagged.
Driver's side snapped right in the beefy inner end part. Passenger side snapped in the middle/toward the outer end. They were aftermarket forged drop spindles that I've had for years and hundreds of autox laps. No warning of failure. Still trying to figure out why they both snapped.
(https://i.imgur.com/BHky5RW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AWIQgzM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Jhb65SQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BIwLWGD.jpg)
That sucks. Much other damage?
Gonna need to replace these parts:
- spindles
- rotors/wheel bearings
- pads
- caliper mounting brackets
- maybe the calipers
- flex brake lines
- tires
I think the wheels are alright. A bit of "curbing" on the inside edge of the drivers' side but it's hidden and shouldn't affect anything. I'll have to do a more thorough inspection of everything next weekend.
Looking at parts now to see if I want to change the control arms out for something else while I'm at it. I don't think they're damaged but I need to make sure it all works together appropriately.
OUCH!!
Woah!
I have never seen one snapped spindle, nevermind two at the same time. :lol:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on March 16, 2020, 01:04:32 PM
I have never seen one snapped spindle, nevermind two at the same time. :lol:
GRIP
But seriously I was booking it. I was in 2nd place and needed to get a couple seconds quicker to get back into 1st. Front end was gripping like mad, zero understeer. Until the spindles snapped :lol:
Brutal man; did you change something recently? Brake balance?
Damn bro.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on March 16, 2020, 01:30:38 PM
Brutal man; did you change something recently? Brake balance?
Swapped to slightly better pads up front last spring. And got new rotors and wheel bearings at that time. Been to a few events since then.
First parts ordered:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Comp-2-Inch-Drop-Performance-Spindles-for-GM-A-F-X-Body-Muscle-Cars,80737.html
(https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/91035000_L_f72155fa-b802-471e-84fc-6c019aedefb3.webp)
Taller spindle so I don't need to use tall ball joints and I'll have an even better camber curve. And they're forged.
Also bought some AFCO lower resistance upper ball joints to replace my current tall ball joints.
Need to decide on what upper control arm will work best. Might need to switch to a shorter style arm since the spindle is taller.
Do those spindles come with a warranty? :lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 19, 2020, 04:37:12 PM
First parts ordered:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Comp-2-Inch-Drop-Performance-Spindles-for-GM-A-F-X-Body-Muscle-Cars,80737.html
(https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/91035000_L_f72155fa-b802-471e-84fc-6c019aedefb3.webp)
Taller spindle so I don't need to use tall ball joints and I'll have an even better camber curve. And they're forged.
Also bought some AFCO lower resistance upper ball joints to replace my current tall ball joints.
Need to decide on what upper control arm will work best. Might need to switch to a shorter style arm since the spindle is taller.
They look kinda spindly. :huh:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on March 19, 2020, 05:25:00 PM
Do those spindles come with a warranty? :lol:
I'll just put them on a 5 year replacement plan. The old ones lasted 10 years before breaking. Although only a few events with sticky tires...
my dumbass was so confused as to why there was no provision for an axle shaft
Quote from: 2o6 on March 21, 2020, 12:35:17 AM
my dumbass was so confused as to why there was no provision for an axle shaft
:lol:
Quote from: 2o6 on March 21, 2020, 12:35:17 AM
my dumbass was so confused as to why there was no provision for an axle shaft
Its gravity powered.
Quote from: 2o6 on March 21, 2020, 12:35:17 AM
my dumbass was so confused as to why there was no provision for an axle shaft
:lol:!
I got the front suspension fixed back in April. Took 2-3 weekends to get it all back together and set up. All new control arms, tie rod ends, spindles, and brakes. Coilovers and sway bars were the only things that carried over. The wheels and tires were fine and I raced another 2-3 events on them this year. Tires probably need to be replaced for next year, and maybe some of the wheels due to scratches and paint issues. We'll see how I feel about that in a few months.
(https://i.imgur.com/dpyd2WQ.jpg)
I also got new seats so I sit lower in the car. My head doesn't rub the headliner when I'm wearing a helmet now.
(https://i.imgur.com/4rrUr5L.jpg)
Big winter project upcoming. In preparation, I'm thinking I should get one of these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/30000-60000-btu-forced-air-propane-portable-heater-57176.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8BuWuBvb3c
Fancy pantsy.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 01, 2021, 08:13:46 PM
Big winter project upcoming. In preparation, I'm thinking I should get one of these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/30000-60000-btu-forced-air-propane-portable-heater-57176.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8BuWuBvb3c
So what's the big project?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 01, 2021, 08:13:46 PM
Big winter project upcoming. In preparation, I'm thinking I should get one of these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/30000-60000-btu-forced-air-propane-portable-heater-57176.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8BuWuBvb3c
I need one of those!
I got a Craftsman one from Lowes, same size and heat output. My garage is actually decently insulated and stays at 44-45 degrees even when it's in the 20s outside. This heated it up to 55 degrees in about 15 minutes before I turned it off.
I guess I'll replace these? Don't look too bad, but new ones aren't expensive. Looks like the tips are a bit worn.
(https://i.imgur.com/c7Ni0lM.jpg)
That shit is worn out.
I bought new ones but the tips are actually less worn than I thought.
Quote from: FoMoJo on January 02, 2021, 08:09:41 AM
So what's the big project?
The big project finally shipped this week! :dance:
(no, spark plugs were not the big project. Although I have only replaced 4 of the 8 so far, I'm super lazy)
My winter project has arrived just in time for spring.
Tremec TKX. It's a brand new model, specific for the aftermarket. Based on a TKO600 (which is a beefy, evolved T-5, used in Mustangs), but with upgraded internals similar to T-56 Magnums and TR-6060s. I've been hesitant to get a TKO600 since the shift feel doesn't seem great. But this should shift like butter, and it's a much smaller case since it's just a 5 speed not a 6 speed. They say it'll fit into GM A-body's without cutting the floor, so we'll see. I'll probably have to modify the shifter hole since I put a new shifter tunnel in and only made a tiny offset hole for the current Muncie Hurst shifter.
I also got a new bellhousing, flywheel, and 11" clutch kit to upgrade from my 10.5" clutch. And a mini starter.
(https://i.imgur.com/v7vSvU6.jpg)
Eventually, an LS motor. It's destiny. :lol:
Keeping the small block for the foreseeable future. And probably the carb too, although I'm tempted to switch to a Holley
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 06, 2021, 01:35:01 PM
Keeping the small block for the foreseeable future. And probably the carb too, although I'm tempted to switch to a Holley
LS motors count as smallblocks ;)
Driveshaft is out, Muncie is out, bellhousing is off (after much effort spent on 1 bolt), clutch/flywheel/starter are off.
Good news is that the rear main seal looks fine. But the inside of the bellhousing is oily. Not sure if it's from the back of the oil pan gasket, or somewhere else on the engine is leaking all the way down. I might tighten the oil pan bolts slightly while I'm down there, then check other areas. I know my valve covers were leaking a decent amount, and so I tightened those recently.
Next step is to put the new larger flywheel on and check the new bellhousing runout. If I'm lucky, I won't need any offset dowel pins, because it can be a lot of work to change them with the engine in the car.
https://americanpowertrain.com/ufaqs/how-do-i-dial-indicate-my-bellhousing/
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 27, 2021, 01:46:56 PM
Driveshaft is out, Muncie is out, bellhousing is off (after much effort spent on 1 bolt), clutch/flywheel/starter are off.
Good news is that the rear main seal looks fine. But the inside of the bellhousing is oily. Not sure if it's from the back of the oil pan gasket, or somewhere else on the engine is leaking all the way down. I might tighten the oil pan bolts slightly while I'm down there, then check other areas. I know my valve covers were leaking a decent amount, and so I tightened those recently.
Next step is to put the new larger flywheel on and check the new bellhousing runout. If I'm lucky, I won't need any offset dowel pins, because it can be a lot of work to change them with the engine in the car.
https://americanpowertrain.com/ufaqs/how-do-i-dial-indicate-my-bellhousing/
Heavier flywheel?
Quote from: FoMoJo on March 27, 2021, 02:14:18 PM
Heavier flywheel?
a little bit, but made for 11" clutch instead of the 10.5" clutch that was installed.
The TKX 5-speed is installed! Just have finishing touches to do: driveshaft, starter, shift handle, etc. But the transmission is in and the crossmember is supporting it.
Once the bellhousing alignment was done and I got the shifter hole cut for the new-ish location, it went pretty easy to toss the clutch on and get the trans in.
Harbor Freight transmission jack is well worth the money.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 02, 2021, 08:37:44 PM
The TKX 5-speed is installed! Just have finishing touches to do: driveshaft, starter, shift handle, etc. But the transmission is in and the crossmember is supporting it.
Once the bellhousing alignment was done and I got the shifter hole cut for the new-ish location, it went pretty easy to toss the clutch on and get the trans in.
Harbor Freight transmission jack is well worth the money.
:ohyeah:
Spend yesterday fiddling with the flywheel dust cover / inspection panel and installing a new mini starter. The inspection panel doesn't fit well with the mini starter on, and the mini starter doesn't extend far enough to engage with the flywheel...
Gonna try a stock style mini starter from a 2002 Silverado 3500 with the 8.1L engine. Hopefully that works better.
Got a new (not rebuilt) Duralast Gold mini starter from the 8.1L installed in just a few minutes. Can't fully test the starting power since the transmission isn't totally done yet, but it didn't grind when I turned the key a couple of times. Cost like $60 more than the aftermarket mini starter, but it's actually lighter (8.7 lbs vs 11 lbs) and doesn't grind, so that's a win
The mini starters they used on the big blocks are nice from a space standpoint but they didn't have a great lifespan on the 454 in my old Suburban.
Quote from: RomanChariot on May 06, 2021, 10:06:30 AM
The mini starters they used on the big blocks are nice from a space standpoint but they didn't have a great lifespan on the 454 in my old Suburban.
We'll see how it does in this application. I needed a new starter for a 168 tooth flywheel, since I swapped from a 153 tooth flywheel, so might as well get the small one.
My exhaust system is pretty crappy now, not very happy with it. Had to dent the H-pipe to clearance it around the crossmember, since the crossmember is 1-2 inches further back now. And I had to chop off the axle-back pipes since they were welded on and I couldn't take anything off with chopping them off (or removing the entire rear end...) I'll see how long I last before I cave and re-do it all.
Speedo cable is leaking, I think I need a different style adapter with a seal on the inner cable. I ruined a pair of suede Vans since the oil came all the way up the speedo cable and dripped down onto the clutch pedal and surrounding area.
Rear brake caliper is leaking, and I think it has been for a year. Tried swapping out the crush washer on the banjo bolt, but now the bleeder screw is leaking. New caliper should be delivered tomorrow.
The transmission break-in period is 500 miles. I have 2 days to drive another 96 miles and then change the gear oil, so I can autocross it this weekend.
I need to drive this more. I fixed the rear caliper, got it all running, etc. then I had a little carb fire that melted some wires and rubber bits. Got a brand new Edelbrock carb (AVS2) and replaced all the wires. Drove it once or twice but I'm still in the tuning process - I need to check if the gas pedal/throttle cable is pulling the carb all the way open or not because it seemed super dead at full throttle.
But I noticed the radiator leaking a bit so I ordered a new aluminum 3 row. Need to install that some day when the weather is nice.
My driveline angle isn't perfect, so I also need to install my adjustable upper trailing arms so I can adjust the rear pinion angle. And the rear pinion seal is leaking so I need to replace that. Probably dried out from not being driven enough over the past year or two.
New radiator was installed a while ago. Seems to keep the car nice and cool. With the 4 speed and old radiator, the water temp would get up to 200 while cruising on the freeway at 70-75 mph on a hot summer day. I haven't done a whole lot of testing, but larger radiator + lower RPM seems to help the temps a lot.
I got the speedometer working last week with the help of a Forte's Parts adapter (https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-parts-gm-mechanical-speedo-adapter/) that has an internal seal like OEM GM speedometer cable adapters. No leaks!
I just got a new Pypes exhaust kit delivered today, with their Race Pro mufflers. Straight through design like a Magnaflow. I'll work on getting that installed over the next couple of weeks. I bought a bunch of band clamps to install it all and make it easier to remove in the future if I need to get the transmission out or something. I bought a true dual kit because crossovers are a PITA to install/uninstall/work around.
I am going to install the new rear trailing arms soon too. Just need to get new bushings and a bushing install tool that I ordered earlier today. Hopefully the stock bolts aren't too rusted on. A lot of times they'll rust onto the bushing sleeve.
Basically I'm finally finishing up the odds and ends of the transmission swap.
I thought I was going to have to replace the pinion seal on the rear end but it might have just been leaking due to sitting for too long. After driving the car a few times I haven't noticed any new drops on the ground. But I should also check the make sure there is still oil left in there :lol:
old vs new
(https://i.imgur.com/O0hlRIo.jpg)
Are them ur rear trailin arms?
Upper rear trailing arms, yes. Should allow me to adjust the pinion angle which I kinda need to do with the new transmission. (total driveline angle isn't too bad but not ideal)
I don't have new lower trailing arms, maybe I'll get around to that at a later date.
New bushings were easier than I expected, thanks to the tool. (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-32101)
Just can't use an impact gun on the nut or it will warp the threads of the bolt. A ratcheting box end wrench is a much better tool for the job.
I also installed a new pinion seal to stop my driveshaft from slinging gear oil all over the place. The old one came out pretty easily and I tapped the new one in with that bushing tool. It was the perfect width, since the pinion seals are like 2.75" diameter and my largest socket is only 1-3/4". Multi-purpose tool!
I specialize in using impact guns on tools that say not to use impact guns. :lol:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on August 29, 2022, 05:56:17 PM
I specialize in using impact guns on tools that say not to use impact guns. :lol:
I had to run to the hardware store and get a new 8-9" bolt because of that
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 29, 2022, 07:10:57 PM
I had to run to the hardware store and get a new 8-9" bolt because of that
Sorry :lol:
New AFR gauge installed.
(https://media.giphy.com/media/lFIZYojwZg1GRuAmmY/giphy.gif)
Nice. I want one.
Other than getting a bung in the exhaust and finding out where to tuck the 3 feet of excess wiring harness, it was much easier to install than I thought it would be.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 03, 2022, 09:01:19 PM
New AFR gauge installed.
(https://media.giphy.com/media/lFIZYojwZg1GRuAmmY/giphy.gif)
Why's it jumping around so much?
It's only on one side, so at idle it's only reading 4/8 cylinders. It smooths out a bit with more RPM
Yeah, but why is the redline on the tach only at 6000? It should be more like 8000. :lol:
I think I set the ignition cutoff at 6500 rpm.
It can definitely do 8000. Once
One side of the exhaust fell off yesterday. I was using flat band clamps for the tailpipe hangers because they look better. But since the hanger is apparently able to slip off, I switched to the cheaper style exhaust clamp. Shouldn't fall off again.
I found out that my carb (Edelbrock 1916, "offroad" version of the 1906) has different stock jetting than the usual 1906. So I'm missing the .101" stock jet size in my tuning kit. I'll have to order some. The 1916 is jetted a bit richer than the 1906. I swapped metering rods to lean out the cruise a bit, but I can't do much more than that until I have the full set of jets at my disposal.
Utah finally has black plates available. (black background, white text)
Should I get a custom plate? "THE WAY" and "THEROAD" is taken. "THEPATH" is available but I wish it had a space ("THE PATH").
"SM0G" is available. So is "VISIT" ("Visit Utah" :lol:) and "LEAVE"
T3H WAY
TEH WAY
EL PLAN
all available
EN CAMINO?
TH3 WAY
New plate came a week or two ago. Looks way better than the dumb historic plate with a Model T looking thing on it.
IMG_3944.jpg
Nice.
Which way?
Whichever way I'm going