My Z's paint keeps getting worse. There are many areas that need to be redone and some rust that needs attention. The only thing to do is paint.
The original color of the car is "Light Brown Poly" code 301. This is the color that's under the hood and everywhere else the PO missed when he painted it whatever color it is now. The current color is fairly close to this, so it doesn't look wacky when I pop the hood.
Frankly, burnt orange/brown sucks, so I may end up pulling the motor/brake lines/etc. to match the engine bay to the body when I paint.
FOR PEOPLE THAT KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT PAINTING CARS:
I'm looking at paint prices right now. I'm probably going to do a 2 stage paint, but I'm not sure. This car is garaged and isn't a daily driver, so UV damage isn't a real big concern.
How much paint do I actually need? What about primer?
I'm going to do all the prepwork myself and my uncle said he would help me spray it, so I'm just looking at raw material cost.
Here's the current color of my Z today:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/DSCN1412.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/DSCN1410.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/DSCN1408.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/DSCN1409.jpg)
Here's some ideas I had:
1969 Chevrolet "Dusk Blue" metallic to match my dad's Corvette:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/DSCN0640.jpg)
GM "Sunburst Orange Metallic":
(http://v2.dealermaid.com/admin_inventory/inventory_pictures/166595.jpg)
A Z just like mine painted in 350Z "Lemans Orange Metallic":
(http://photos-148.facebook.com/ip004/v38/4/90/23206849/n23206849_30741148_2855.jpg)
The orange is so close to what you have now, I wouldn't bother. The blue is rich and subdued, but probably pricey. Black is always a winner, but you have to keep it clean.
Never painted a car myself (I prefer to just let them deteriorate), so I can't help you on the rest.
It's not a matter of changing the color, I mainly just want fresh new paint.
Then I'd go with whatever you have now. It and gray are the two colors I think of when I think of the 280Z, and gray is drab.
I like blue, and I think it would look good.
Let me explain the car's color history:
-Nissan painted it "Light Brown Poly" back in 1976. It is still the factory color under the hood.
-Some PO painted it a color slightly different than that probably some time in 1980's. I have NO idea what color code it is now.
This is what the original Datsun paint looked like:
(http://i15.ebayimg.com/04/i/08/cb/dc/a7_12.JPG)
(http://i8.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/d3/0d/20_12.JPG)
I don't really care for 1970's brown.
What about white?
I hate white.
It shows the dirt. It's boring. It has no depth.
I'd go with White or Blue or Black
Dark Horse Candidate: Silver
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 11, 2006, 04:18:37 PM
I hate white.
It shows the dirt. It's boring. It has no depth.
From what I've seen, white doesn't actually show dirt as much as a dark color. But it certainly is boring, and looks out-of-place on a sporty car IMO.
Quote from: ifcar on November 11, 2006, 04:32:15 PM
From what I've seen, white doesn't actually show dirt as much as a dark color. But it certainly is boring, and looks out-of-place on a sporty car IMO.
I think Raza suggested it because it's the traditional Japanese racing color.
I like the oranges, except for the GM crap. maybe the current Z color??
If you don't want to go orange/brown, DON'T do grey or silver, they're boring, white seems lame too on such a shweet ride. Blue seems out of place, although I drove a 78 B210 coupe that was blue.
If you feel the need to switch completely-
One of my favorite toys when I was about 6yrs old was a Matchbox 280Z. It even had a plastic trailer 'hitch' on the back to pull the horsetrailer we had.. :confused: I used to pretend that the back window slid up and had a huge gun pop up (ala GoldenEye.) I would only suggest it because you seem like the type of manly man that can pull that color off-
Deep, rich, purple. :ohyeah:
Well its too bad you don't live in my area, i just happen to be part owner in a autobody refinish store.
I'd give you a great deal, but since your not in my area i guess your SOL.? :lol:
Anyway i don't know what brand of paint your looking at but i'll give the the breakdown of needed materials(and costs as far as PPG paint goes).
First off since your covering a factory finish you won't have to worry too much about primers of any sort, unless you start doing some bodywork then you will need to use a primer surfacer(to fill bondo/sand scratches) and a primer sealer(to seal the surfacer and other bodywork).
You will probobly need 3 qt's of paint, maybe 2 depending on what color you decide to go with(obviously the same color will cover very well). You will need probobly 3qts of clear as well. I'll give you prices for both in gallon quantities, this way you can figure it will be less, or you will have no surprises if you need more material. Prices will very from region to region, depending on a few factors.
Anyway you will need paint.
250-350 a gallon for any color other than heavy metallic blues/greens/etc(basically silvers and your stock color should fall in that area).
200 a gallon for black
400-550 for reds and heavy pearl colors
higher for custom colors.
Now if you came into my store and were doing a complete i would recommend a different line of paint, which is of equal quality but doesn't offer the OEM matchablility of the higher line of paint(quoted above).
In that case you could get any color you wanted for less than 300 a gallon.
Next you will need clear, like paint you will be looking at anywhere from 100 a gallon(with hardener) to 280 a gallon(PPG concept clears).
If you do body work factor in another 100-150 for a couple quarts of primer.
You would be looking at 300-400(for one line), or 500-700 for the higher end stuff(bascally what they use on high end customs).
Not cheap, but if you have someone who knows how to spray you can really save alot over a shop job.
The car has been repainted before and not very well, I might add.
I put my race number on my car in painter's tape and it peeled away some of the aftermarket paint on there now.
I think I may have to sand down to the factory paint.
Sand it down back to factory paint or primer.
If it where me i would seal the whole car(a 2k primer sealer, about 30-60 dollars a qt, you'll need probobly 2-3) and then go from there.
Yowsers, how cheap is the paint that someplace like Maaco uses?
I'd toyed with getting my white van fixed/painted (scratches up front, a dent and decent scratches in the back, door handles were painted but now muffed up,) but I'm guessing it would be a bazillion dollars..
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 11, 2006, 08:34:01 PM
Yowsers, how cheap is the paint that someplace like Maaco uses?
I'd toyed with getting my white van fixed/painted (scratches up front, a dent and decent scratches in the back, door handles were painted but now muffed up,) but I'm guessing it would be a bazillion dollars..
The reason maaco gives those cheap jobs is because all they are quoting for is to spray the car, and they use pre packaged colors. If you start factoring in bodywork and major prep and maybe a unique color the price climbs to a normal bodyshop price. Atleast thats how i understand it, plus the quantity they buy in lowers the price.
If you walked in my door i could give you a gollon of white(any actual factory coded white, not just generic) and a gallon of clear with hardener and the reducer for the paint(all you would have to do is tape it off and sand and spray), all for about 180 with tax.
I'm thinking about going with Porsche Slate Gray Metallic. PPG charges $227 a gallon for it.
It's interesting that Porsche charges thousands more for Slate Gray Metallic when the plain Guards Red color costs more.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 11, 2006, 09:12:15 PM
I'm thinking about going with Porsche Slate Gray Metallic. PPG charges $227 a gallon for it.
It's interesting that Porsche charges thousands more for Slate Gray Metallic when the plain Guards Red color costs more.
What a automaker charges for stuff normally has little to do with the actual cost.
Anyway thats a good price for a gallon of PPG paint(i'm guessing its deltron/DBC basecoat).
Throw in a gallon of good clear(concept dcu2021/dcu2042) and your looking at about 500 for the total job.
What if I just did a single stage paint?
I don't think I really need a clear coat finish and without it, repairs would be easier.
Quote from: ifcar on November 11, 2006, 04:32:15 PM
From what I've seen, white doesn't actually show dirt as much as a dark color. But it certainly is boring, and looks out-of-place on a sporty car IMO.
You are right on both counts, the dust from my long gravel driveway doesn't show up nearly as badly on the Prelude as it did on the Durango. But, it isn't the most exciting of colors for sure.
You should be able to get that same gallon of porsche silver you were looking at in a single stage urethane(ppg Concept DCC). its is basically their deltron basecoat grade of paint with concept clear in it.
probobly around 250-300 a gallon, just add hardener and reducer. You would save probobly 100-150 dollars.
The benefit if a BC/CC(basecoat/Clearcoat) system is the ability to use it for OEM type repairs. Basically blending in a repair on a panel into the rest of the paint job to make it look factory. If you are doing a complete a single stage paint(either Enamel, or Urethane) is a good way to save money(less material) and save labor(paint 2 coats of one product vs 2 coats of 2 products).
In your case DCC(single stage urethane) would probobly be the best blend of quality paint and cost savings.
Is this the paint that you're talking about?
http://www.ppgcarpaint.com/products.php?PPGCode=905887&PNId=17726&SPCId=14
SCHIEFER is German for slate, BTW. For some reason, PPG lists their German car paints in German!
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 11, 2006, 09:45:29 PM
Is this the paint that you're talking about?
http://www.ppgcarpaint.com/products.php?PPGCode=905887&PNId=17726&SPCId=14
SCHIEFER is German for slate, BTW. For some reason, PPG lists their German car paints in German!
That is a single stage urethane paint, though it is from the lower line that i was talking about, the line is referred to OMNI.
Anyway that would work, generally a lower line of paint gives up the ability to match OEM paint. Since your doing a complete that is a non issue.
I always get a kick out of the german colors, they list them in german or a half assed american german name in my color books.
I thought I heard my uncle say that BC/CC paints are easier to work with than single stage. Any truth to that?
Personally shades of silver and gray are my favorite because of the way they reflect light.
Lexus' "Thundercloud" paint is one of my all-time favorites. Its a very metallic gray that has a slight bronze to it under some light.
(http://images.motortrend.com/auto_shows/coverage/112_05_detas_l_thunder_z.jpg)
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on November 11, 2006, 08:37:37 PM
The reason maaco gives those cheap jobs is because all they are quoting for is to spray the car, and they use pre packaged colors. If you start factoring in bodywork and major prep and maybe a unique color the price climbs to a normal bodyshop price. Atleast thats how i understand it, plus the quantity they buy in lowers the price.
If you walked in my door i could give you a gollon of white(any actual factory coded white, not just generic) and a gallon of clear with hardener and the reducer for the paint(all you would have to do is tape it off and sand and spray), all for about 180 with tax.
How much paint would it take to cover a huge-a** minivan? :mask:
I'm playing around with doing this someday- the Army self-help garages only charge a few bucks an hour to use the facilities. The one up in Aberdeen Proving Grounds, Maryland, is less than an hour from here, and has a paint bay..
First I'd try something that I wouldn't care gets messed up as much, like my grey van.
How about Orange with some silver flames?? :mask:
I'm with Autobahn... If you like the orange, at least go with the new Z color.
(http://images.consumerguide.com/autoreview/400x266/2005-Nissan-350Z-04809291990009.JPG)
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 11, 2006, 10:41:14 PM
I thought I heard my uncle say that BC/CC paints are easier to work with than single stage. Any truth to that?
They are, when doint repairs to a existing finish(replaced a fender, etc) its easier to match or blend paint off and have it match the rest of the car. Its also easier when you are painting it because you can sand between paint and clear to get a flater nicer finish.
However doing a complete paint job which doesn't involve matching is just as easy(slightly easier, less application of product which takes less time, cheaper) in a single stage then in BC/CC.
Anyway considering your uncle is painting this for you i would advise you try and use whatever product he's used to or more comfortable working with, that will probobly get you the best result in the end(i.e. if you paints BC/CC all the time don't show up with a gallon of some off brand Acrylic enamel).
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 12, 2006, 06:06:55 AM
How much paint would it take to cover a huge-a** minivan?? :mask:
I'm playing around with doing this someday- the Army self-help garages only charge a few bucks an hour to use the facilities.? The one up in Aberdeen Proving Grounds, Maryland, is less than an hour from here, and has a paint bay..
First I'd try something that I wouldn't care gets messed up as much, like my grey van.
How about Orange with some silver flames??? :mask:
Are you still overseas?
Anyway i don't know what the prices are like there but you can probobly paint a minivan(a full size panel van would be twice as much) with a gallon to a gallon and a half of paint.
Using a lower line of paint and doing a complete it would probobly cost you 300-400 for your standard whites greys blacks. It would probobly take a good weekend for you to do it(i'd do as much sanding and trim removal as possible at your place).
I think my uncle painted the hood of his Challenger with metallic orange BC/CC. He said he liked it because "you don't have to be perfect for it to look good".
BC/CC is more user friendly for the painter, and does produce the nicer finish when it comes to metallic/pearl paints.
Since we are talking about paint, a deer recently removed my passenger side mirror cover and I figure I most likely won't be able to find a white one. So how much are we talking to get this very small item painted? What kind of prep work would be required? (assuming a used cover) And, could they just shoot the regular white Honda paint on or is there some sort of color matching required due to fading from the sun?
For something that small, I would get one from the junkyard and paint it with gloss white rustoleum to match. :)
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 12, 2006, 04:51:18 PM
For something that small, I would get one from the junkyard and paint it with gloss white rustoleum to match. :)
LOL
My wife is into Rustoleum-ing furniture. We have a few cheap pieces that she's done..
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on November 12, 2006, 03:54:21 PM
Are you still overseas?
Anyway i don't know what the prices are like there but you can probobly paint a minivan(a full size panel van would be twice as much) with a gallon to a gallon and a half of paint.
Using a lower line of paint and doing a complete it would probobly cost you 300-400 for your standard whites greys blacks. It would probobly take a good weekend for you to do it(i'd do as much sanding and trim removal as possible at your place).
I'm in Maryland since Jan2005.
Supposedly I have some "pearl" white. Do you do anything with (really minor) dents?
Do you sand just to get a smooth paint surface? For the dent in the back, can you just bondo over the paint, then sand/paint?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 12, 2006, 05:04:09 PM
I'm in Maryland since Jan2005.
Supposedly I have some "pearl" white.? Do you do anything with (really minor) dents?
Do you sand just to get a smooth paint surface?? For the dent in the back, can you just bondo over the paint, then sand/paint?
To have a OEM type finish after repairing a dent you need to have all sand marks filled.
You would sand the dent area down, then fill it with bondo. Then sand the area flat then apply a primer SURFACER, the surfacer will fill in the sand scratches and allow you to block it smooth. Once your body work area is smooth you want to use a primer SEALER, this basically seals off the work you've done below this primer and keeps the paint from "biting" into the lower coats. Primer Sealers are non sandable and should be hardened(i.e. a 2K product). After sealer you go on and topcoat with whatever paint product you are using(single stage, urethane or enamel, etc).
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on November 12, 2006, 06:46:44 PM
To have a OEM type finish after repairing a dent you need to have all sand marks filled.
You would sand the dent area down, then fill it with bondo. Then sand the area flat then apply a primer SURFACER, the surfacer will fill in the sand scratches and allow you to block it smooth. Once your body work area is smooth you want to use a primer SEALER, this basically seals off the work you've done below this primer and keeps the paint from "biting" into the lower coats. Primer Sealers are non sandable and should be hardened(i.e. a 2K product). After sealer you go on and topcoat with whatever paint product you are using(single stage, urethane or enamel, etc).
Sounds like too much work. :confused:
Maybe someday, but I doubt I'll ever sell this thing, I'll probably run it into the ground. And the imperfections don't show THAT much.
You need one of these Autobahn:
(http://igoe.ie/cms/images/stories/products/PaintingTools/1204.jpg)
:tounge:
:devil:
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on November 12, 2006, 11:04:06 PM
You need one of these Autobahn:
(http://igoe.ie/cms/images/stories/products/PaintingTools/1204.jpg)
:tounge:
:devil:
LOL
When my parents got married they had an old Dodge. My grandpa gave them a bucket of black and a paintbrush. :rockon:
I think the silver/gray is the way to go here. It'll look good and if you go a little on the lighter side it won't need to be a perfect paint job to look good.
My favorite: Maui blue, 1988 Pontiac T/A color. I miss that car.
(http://math.uchicago.edu/~gurski/elise6.jpg)
Something of the British Racing Green type thing would look pretty cool.
Having seen 240Zs and 260Zs in various shades all throughout the day, I give my vote to silver.
Quote from: JWC on November 14, 2006, 08:38:51 PM
My favorite:? Maui blue, 1988 Pontiac T/A color.? I miss that car.
I used to visit my grandparents quite often years ago. The neighbour across the street from them had an '89 5.7L T/A painted two-tone: Maui blue with silver skirts. I lusted over it... and the blonde that owned it...
I think that blue is too light. I still like my dad's Corvette's Dusk Blue:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/DSCN0640.jpg)