So I will be turning 16 in just a bit more than 6 months and therefore I will be needed a car. I have about $1400 right now (my dad is making me buy it, which is fine) and hope to get at least another $1000 by then, but I want to spend no more than $1500 just because if I have to get a piece of junk I might as well not spend much money. I want to go reasonably new if possible ('90s) because it needs to be reliable. Good fuel economy is also important but coolness doesn't really matter (what $1500 car is going to be cool anyway?). Right now I have found Escorts and SL1s for cheap, any other ideas?
Escorts are inexpensive, easily available, and mine has been trouble-free (though many other owners that I know have had some electrical annoyances). The Cavalier would be similar, but I think a Saturn would be a bit more expensive than those. I'd avoid a coupe, insurance goes way up for a young male driver in a 2-door. You could also look at the unpopular Japanese cars of that era, like the Mitsu Colt, Geo Prizm (it's not officially Japanese, but I'll throw it along with them anyway) and Nissan Sentra, I'd assume they'd be selling for much less than similarly aged Corollas and Civics.
If you want to go a little larger, you could probably find an early-90s Taurus/Sable or Corsica in your price range, and perhaps a Buick Century/Olds Ciera as well. Insurance would probably be quite cheap on the last two as well.
And you know that I recommend getting a hatchback or wagon whenever possible. ;)
Good luck!
QuoteEscorts are inexpensive, easily available, and mine has been trouble-free (though many other owners that I know have had some electrical annoyances). The Cavalier would be similar, but I think a Saturn would be a bit more expensive than those. I'd avoid a coupe, insurance goes way up for a young male driver in a 2-door. You could also look at the unpopular Japanese cars of that era, like the Mitsu Colt, Geo Prizm (it's not officially Japanese, but I'll throw it along with them anyway) and Nissan Sentra, I'd assume they'd be selling for much less than similarly aged Corollas and Civics.
If you want to go a little larger, you could probably find an early-90s Taurus/Sable or Corsica in your price range, and perhaps a Buick Century/Olds Ciera as well. Insurance would probably be quite cheap on the last two as well.
And you know that I recommend getting a hatchback or wagon whenever possible. ;)
Good luck!
We have been through this before... ;)
I thought the Tauruses of the early 1990s were pretty bad as far as reliability goes?
QuoteQuoteEscorts are inexpensive, easily available, and mine has been trouble-free (though many other owners that I know have had some electrical annoyances). The Cavalier would be similar, but I think a Saturn would be a bit more expensive than those. I'd avoid a coupe, insurance goes way up for a young male driver in a 2-door. You could also look at the unpopular Japanese cars of that era, like the Mitsu Colt, Geo Prizm (it's not officially Japanese, but I'll throw it along with them anyway) and Nissan Sentra, I'd assume they'd be selling for much less than similarly aged Corollas and Civics.
If you want to go a little larger, you could probably find an early-90s Taurus/Sable or Corsica in your price range, and perhaps a Buick Century/Olds Ciera as well. Insurance would probably be quite cheap on the last two as well.
And you know that I recommend getting a hatchback or wagon whenever possible. ;)
Good luck!
We have been through this before... ;)
I thought the Tauruses of the early 1990s were pretty bad as far as reliability goes?
I had a 89 model and it was absolutely horrendous....numerous transmission and engine replacements...
Generally with a car that age, you either get lucky or you don't. When you're paying $1,500, your best bet is to go with something domestic because you're more likely to get something newer with lower miles, and hope for the best. At that price, the liklihood of getting something that won't need some sort of work in the next few years is about 0%, maybe 0.5%.
QuoteGenerally with a car that age, you either get lucky or you don't. When you're paying $1,500, your best bet is to go with something domestic because you're more likely to get something newer with lower miles, and hope for the best. At that price, the liklihood of getting something that won't need some sort of work in the next few years is about 0%, maybe 0.5%.
I will hopefully only need to keep it for a couple of years.
Ifcar, check your PMs.
And TBR, maybe you can get a used 90ish RX-7.
QuoteIfcar, check your PMs.
And TBR, maybe you can get a used 90ish RX-7.
Gas mileage isn't very good with those.
And insurance would be close to unmanageable.
Personally I'd go for a 4 door Sentra.
Those box on wheels ones, early 90s.
I always liked them.
QuoteAnd insurance would be close to unmanageable.
Actually, it probably wouldn't be that bad, when its liability only it doesn't vary nearly as much.
In addition to what you already thought of, get a truck. If you can, try to find a nice older truck with a big engine from a nice old Texan man. Is gas mileage really that important? Lets say you drive 5,000 miles a year, probably an accurate number for a kid driver. At $2 a gallon and 14m/gal you will spend $714 annualy. The same distance with a car capable of 25mph will cost $400 a year. I don't think $300 over the course of a year is a high price to pay for a nicer ride. But if cheap is really important, and given a $1500 budget I guess it is, look for an older Ranger with a manual tranny. An auto that breaks, and they all will at high mileage will rape you in repair costs. Clutches on RWD cars aren't too bad however. I think you'll have fun with a MT. I wish I had access to a stick. Everyone around me drives automatics and I've only had the occasion to drive stick a few awsomely fun times. Rangers before '97 had 2.3 base motors. Slow as dirt, but reliable and known to go a long time. The 3.0 is still quite slow, but better, and also known to go a long time. Then there's the 4.0. These aren't too common, but are fast. Grab one if you can. I'm sure you know the Mazda B-Series is the same thing. There are a few other old, cheap pickups. Look for Toyota and Nissan. Both are rock solid and will last forever unless rust gets to them, but that shouldn't be a problem down there. I would avoid an S-10 unless the money is right. They generally suck in every way. Good luck.
summary: trucks rule, consider one
Get something shitty and fun. AKA a Sentra.
Pre 1987 Corrolas were RWD :praise:
I have thought about a truck and I really wouldn't mind driving one, but first I will probably be putting at least 7500 miles a year on this thing and quite likely 10,000 (we live far away from everything) and gas does add up quickly for someone that doesn't want to waste money on it at this point. A compact wouldn't be nearly as bad though, and a 4.0l Ranger would be a nice truck. I also know a guy that has a 1990-1992 4.3l S10 5-speed regular cab and I might be able to get him to sell it (and I would get a very good deal on it too because he likes my brother and I).
How risky is buying a sub $1000 car?
That depends. ZCarnut got a $500 Daewoo Leganza, only 4 years old. You can't get parts for it, but it's new enough that it should be reliable. But a typical $0-$999 car is likely to be crap.
QuoteThat depends. ZCarnut got a $500 Daewoo Leganza, only 4 years old. You can't get parts for it, but it's new enough that it should be reliable. But a typical $0-$999 car is likely to be crap.
Will it last for a couple of years or even just a year?
Even a Daewoo should last for a few years. I'm considering one myself, but I like to keep cars longer than that.
Look for an early 90's Altima. My uncle has a 93 Altima that refuses to die.
In my mind, the $1000 question is really easy to answer...
Late 80s Civic or Accord.
Actually, the Daewoo idea is intriguing...
QuoteIn my mind, the $1000 question is really easy to answer...
Late 80s Civic or Accord.
Actually, the Daewoo idea is intriguing...
Hondas are too expensive, even the old ones.
Well personally i'd look for a nissan, almost all(the pre 94 max's had a belt) 90's nissans have timing chains, something that will be a no problem item.
I would not look for a honda product, at that age and price point all you'll find are old pre-beaten and riced out crapmobiles.
Also when it comes to open market value you will (in general) pay twice as much for half the car when it comes to used honda's(people think they are gold for some reason). I'd look at early 90's nissans/toyotas(kinda spendy), or better yet mazda's.
Your best bet is to look everywhere, turn over every rock, you will find fantastic deals. Don't just look in the paper, search online, drive around, etc.
There are deals to be found, the last 2 cars i bought for under 1500 dollars where damn nice cars(a 1990 Q45, no problems, killer deal and a 1996 mazda MX-6, just needed some love and about 20 bucks in misc fluids).
EDIT: Refers to TBR's post.
Definitely, and there is about no chance that a high-mileage 1980s car, even a Honda, will be reliable .
Mazda 323?
Another good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
QuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I don't care about a manual at this point.
QuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I agree. My Lesabre is worth right now no more than 2k and has not had any problems in the last year except for a PS leak that didn't amount to anything.
If you don't want a manual, take a look at cheap, old domestic cruisers. Some of them, like Lincoln Mark 8s can be quite fast, but in general with torquey V-8s they are all pretty powerful and nice rides.
QuoteQuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I agree. My Lesabre is worth right now no more than 2k and has not had any problems in the last year except for a PS leak that didn't amount to anything.
If you don't want a manual, take a look at cheap, old domestic cruisers. Some of them, like Lincoln Mark 8s can be quite fast, but in general with torquey V-8s they are all pretty powerful and nice rides.
My only problem with bigger cars is gas mileage. I know the 3800 is pretty good on gas, but what about the V8s from Ford and GM?
QuoteQuoteQuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I agree. My Lesabre is worth right now no more than 2k and has not had any problems in the last year except for a PS leak that didn't amount to anything.
If you don't want a manual, take a look at cheap, old domestic cruisers. Some of them, like Lincoln Mark 8s can be quite fast, but in general with torquey V-8s they are all pretty powerful and nice rides.
My only problem with bigger cars is gas mileage. I know the 3800 is pretty good on gas, but what about the V8s from Ford and GM?
The Ford 5.0 in the CV and Grand Marc isn't good but if you can find a GM 5.7, as used in 94-96 Roadmasters and Fleetwoods and cop Caprices(not sure of the years) you will get nice highway mileage and acceptible city mileage.
Not very good, thanks partly to the engines and thanks partly to the size of the vehicles they were typically used in.
QuoteQuoteQuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I agree. My Lesabre is worth right now no more than 2k and has not had any problems in the last year except for a PS leak that didn't amount to anything.
If you don't want a manual, take a look at cheap, old domestic cruisers. Some of them, like Lincoln Mark 8s can be quite fast, but in general with torquey V-8s they are all pretty powerful and nice rides.
My only problem with bigger cars is gas mileage. I know the 3800 is pretty good on gas, but what about the V8s from Ford and GM?
For a new driver and someone who probobly isn't looking for a land yacht, i'd stay away from the v-8 rwd car area. Lincolns are known to have problems with their air suspension which can lead to costly repairs or at best(cheapest) a messed up ride.
Compared to larger heavier v-8 sedans the FWD gm cars are pretty nice. They have plenty of power, get good mileage and can be fairly light(sub 3500lbs).
Also due to their long production run and large model base(Grand prix, bonneville, several olds, buick's) they are a dime a dozen and parts are cheap, easily available and interchangable.
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I agree. My Lesabre is worth right now no more than 2k and has not had any problems in the last year except for a PS leak that didn't amount to anything.
If you don't want a manual, take a look at cheap, old domestic cruisers. Some of them, like Lincoln Mark 8s can be quite fast, but in general with torquey V-8s they are all pretty powerful and nice rides.
My only problem with bigger cars is gas mileage. I know the 3800 is pretty good on gas, but what about the V8s from Ford and GM?
The Ford 5.0 in the CV and Grand Marc isn't good but if you can find a GM 5.7, as used in 94-96 Roadmasters and Fleetwoods and cop Caprices(not sure of the years) you will get nice highway mileage and acceptible city mileage.
Anything with the 350 is too expensive (including the Roadmaster, Caprice, and Fleetwood), what about the 305?
You have to remember weight, getting a caprice with a 305 would get you nothing(except RWD, big deal). A 305 caprice will be slower, heavier and get worse gas mileage than a 3800 powered vehicle. Repairs would be about the same.
QuoteYou have to remember weight, getting a caprice with a 305 would get you nothing(except RWD, big deal). A 305 caprice will be slower, heavier and get worse gas mileage than a 3800 powered vehicle. Repairs would be about the same.
3800 it is or maybe not. How good is the reputation of GM's DOHC 3.4l V6? (it was available in the Grand Prix, Lumina, Regal, and Cutlass Supreme) I have heard that it had some major gasket issues, I am I remembering correctly?
I don't recall the exact problems, but compared to the 3800 it isn't very steller, it wasn't a bad motor it just suffered from GM's odd way of thinking. They intoduced a few OHC(DOHC) v-6's over the years, had minor problems with them and basically gave up, never getting the chance to refine the mill over a long period of time. They always fell back on their OHV motors. This is basically why the 3800 is the best GM v-6 thoughout the 90's.
Personally i'd shy away from early 90's GM DOHC v-6's.
QuoteI don't recall the exact problems, but compared to the 3800 it isn't very steller, it wasn't a bad motor it just suffered from GM's odd way of thinking. They intoduced a few OHC(DOHC) v-6's over the years, had minor problems with them and basically gave up, never getting the chance to refine the mill over a long period of time. They always fell back on their OHV motors. This is basically why the 3800 is the best GM v-6 thoughout the 90's.
Personally i'd shy away from early 90's GM DOHC v-6's.
Okay, 3.8l it is. Though it has always struck me as odd that GM tried the DOHC V6 and manual tranismission combination 15 years ago and it apparantly didn't work out very well yet everyone always gripes about them being behind the times with their powertrains.
QuoteQuoteI don't recall the exact problems, but compared to the 3800 it isn't very steller, it wasn't a bad motor it just suffered from GM's odd way of thinking. They intoduced a few OHC(DOHC) v-6's over the years, had minor problems with them and basically gave up, never getting the chance to refine the mill over a long period of time. They always fell back on their OHV motors. This is basically why the 3800 is the best GM v-6 thoughout the 90's.
Personally i'd shy away from early 90's GM DOHC v-6's.
Okay, 3.8l it is. Though it has always struck me as odd that GM tried the DOHC V6 and manual tranismission combination 15 years ago and it apparantly didn't work out very well yet everyone always gripes about them being behind the times with their powertrains.
Yup that is pretty dumb, and its there fault in a way. They just didn't put the effort and time into refining their new motors, and when push came to shove(beancounters) they just shelved the new v-6 and gave the 3800 a refresher.
QuoteQuoteQuoteI don't recall the exact problems, but compared to the 3800 it isn't very steller, it wasn't a bad motor it just suffered from GM's odd way of thinking. They intoduced a few OHC(DOHC) v-6's over the years, had minor problems with them and basically gave up, never getting the chance to refine the mill over a long period of time. They always fell back on their OHV motors. This is basically why the 3800 is the best GM v-6 thoughout the 90's.
Personally i'd shy away from early 90's GM DOHC v-6's.
Okay, 3.8l it is. Though it has always struck me as odd that GM tried the DOHC V6 and manual tranismission combination 15 years ago and it apparantly didn't work out very well yet everyone always gripes about them being behind the times with their powertrains.
Yup that is pretty dumb, and its there fault in a way. They just didn't put the effort and time into refining their new motors, and when push came to shove(beancounters) they just shelved the new v-6 and gave the 3800 a refresher.
Yep, but it doesn't look like they will be doing that with the 2.8/3.6l. Of course they aren't putting it in any mainstreamers either (unless you count the Lacrosse which is right on the fringe of being a luxury car imho).
QuoteQuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I don't care about a manual at this point.
One of the weakest points in an old car is the transmission. A manual tranny is generally more reliable, cheaper and easier to maintain or repair. Not to mention that fewer and fewer people *want* a manual, therefore it drives down the value of cars that do have sticks.
I'd recommend a high mileage Ranger 4x2 with manual transmission, preferably a 97-99. 96 and earlier rangers had the "twin ibeam" front suspension that sucked. I bet you can pick up one with 150k on the clock in your price range. They are dead simple.
I like the 323 idea, they're quite reliable and cheap.
I've always wanted to make my own GTX version sans 4WD and turbo the shit out of one.B)
QuoteI like the 323 idea, they're quite reliable and cheap.
I've always wanted to make my own GTX version sans 4WD and turbo the shit out of one.B)
I like that idea too, the problem is availability.
Beware of a car that costs $800...especially when the owner lowers the price to $650 without any bartering.
To end up with a car like the Saab, do what I did:
-Ignore the loud clunk of the transmission when it pops out of reverse
-Plan on fixing those electrical glitches easily
-Figure that the stalling problem is a simple problem that you can fix yourself
-Be really impressed with features like heated leather seats, power windows and locks, auto climate control, etc.
-Ignore clicking noises from the engine
-Don't check fluid levels
-Don't have a mechanic look at it
-Make sure it has a turbo, DOHCs, or something to make it more complex
-Don't research other models like it
-Trust the owner. If he seems like a nice guy he must be totally honest!
-Those recent repairs show that it's all ready for you to buy!
Finally:
-Call the local junkyard a couple months later and see how much they want for it! :lol:
That Saab 9000 Turbo is going to change the way I buy cars.
Is the Saab for sale? I'll take it off your hands.
How about an older Accord?
QuoteIs the Saab for sale? I'll take it off your hands.
The Saab is in the junkyard. It was worthless.
QuoteHow about an older Accord?
Too expensive, those older accords can be pretty pricey.
QuoteQuoteIs the Saab for sale? I'll take it off your hands.
The Saab is in the junkyard. It was worthless.
:(
Saabs... :wub:
How much did you pay for the 280Z again?
The Z was $1100. I lucked out on that one because it turned out to be a pretty decent car. I still should have been more thorough when inspecting the car. I didn't even test drive it!
The first time I turned a corner I was very suprised to find that there was no power steering! :o I had to let my dad drive it home because I couldn't. :lol:
You really want to make sure that you research the car you're looking at!
QuoteThe Z was $1100. I lucked out on that one because it turned out to be a pretty decent car. I still should have been more thorough when inspecting the car. I didn't even test drive it!
The first time I turned a corner I was very suprised to find that there was no power steering! :o I had to let my dad drive it home because I couldn't. :lol:
You really want to make sure that you research the car you're looking at!
How did you find it? Autotrader?
I found it in the local classifieds. I didn't buy it until after it failed to meet the reserve on eBay. It would have been $2000 if I had not waited.
Yeah, Sean made some really good points there.
Make sure to go over every single part of the body, offer to wash the car for the owner. Gives you some time to go over the body with a fine tooth comb.
Check underneath too for dents and stuff.
Ask for receipts for all the work that is claimed to have been done to the car, and if he doesn't have them, check out the parts to ensure that they are new.
Most importantly, do research on the car. I got screwed over on my car too because I trusted the seller too much and didn't ask for receipts - he said there was work done that I found out later wasn't done at all. Finally, don't let mileage fool you.
Please...research takes the surprise out of it.
QuotePlease...research takes the surprise out of it.
Expensive suprises are not fun, especially when you're 2000kms away from home and need to get your broke ass home that week. :(
QuoteQuotePlease...research takes the surprise out of it.
Expensive suprises are not fun, especially when you're 2000kms away from home and need to get your broke ass home that week. :(
2000kms? I live in America. Kilometers don't exist here.
:P ;)
QuoteQuoteQuoteAnother good deal for a comfortable reliable car that should average in the mid 20's is a 3800 powered GM. These are good unless you want a manual. They also suffer from horrible resale and you should have a good selection in your price range.
I don't care about a manual at this point.
One of the weakest points in an old car is the transmission. A manual tranny is generally more reliable, cheaper and easier to maintain or repair. Not to mention that fewer and fewer people *want* a manual, therefore it drives down the value of cars that do have sticks.
That's all true. But on high-mileage cars you're taking a huge risk with the condition of the clutch and gearbox. And if somehow you end up messing it up, the cost of replacement is terrible. We spent $600 on the A4, and that was a mechanic we know very well.
If I were him I'd go for an Auto, unless I he's already really good at stick.
QuoteQuoteQuotePlease...research takes the surprise out of it.
Expensive suprises are not fun, especially when you're 2000kms away from home and need to get your broke ass home that week. :(
2000kms? I live in America. Kilometers don't exist here.
:P ;)
Roughly 1300miles. :rolleyes:
QuoteThe first time I turned a corner I was very suprised to find that there was no power steering! :o I had to let my dad drive it home because I couldn't. :lol:
When the alternator belt broke on the A4, I found steering to be reminiscent of a Skoda I drive regularly overseas. Except this was a million times worse because it was a surprise and because that Skoda was FWD and didn't weigh 3200lbs.
I pulled over and barely managed to park correctly. :lol:
I actually liked non-power steering on that Skoda. It was a bit of a pain when parallel parking, but once you got up to speed, it had a directness that very few cars with power steering possess. Kind of reminded me of a 3-Series.
Hehe I've disabled the power steering on my car. Broke, and it was the middle of winter so I didn't feel like fixing it myself and I was too cheap to take it to a garage, then I ended up really liking the amount of road feel I got, and it's still like that to this day.
I just hope damage doesn't occur to the steering rack. I asked around and there has been a bunch of people who have removed power steering with no ill effects so I should be fine.
I will probably end up with an auto just because that is what is available around here, not many stick shifts, even in econo cars.
QuoteHehe I've disabled the power steering on my car. Broke, and it was the middle of winter so I didn't feel like fixing it myself and I was too cheap to take it to a garage, then I ended up really liking the amount of road feel I got, and it's still like that to this day.
I just hope damage doesn't occur to the steering rack. I asked around and there has been a bunch of people who have removed power steering with no ill effects so I should be fine.
Must be a blast with your 4WS. :lol:
What about a Volvo? 740? 240?
Why'd you say no on the RX7 again?
QuoteWhat about a Volvo? 740? 240?
Why'd you say no on the RX7 again?
Insurance, plus availability of parts. No European cars because of the cost of parts. Right now it looks like the best thing to do will be to buy whatever car I can get the best deal on.
QuoteQuoteWhat about a Volvo? 740? 240?
Why'd you say no on the RX7 again?
Insurance, plus availability of parts. No European cars because of the cost of parts. Right now it looks like the best thing to do will be to buy whatever car I can get the best deal on.
Sounds about right.
Just but a used toyota, they it should last for more than you need it.
QuoteJust but a used toyota, they it should last for more than you need it.
Too expensive
I say get a moped.
Oh! A Vespa!
QuoteI say get a moped.
Oh! A Vespa!
Everything will be 30+ miles away from where we are going to move so that won't work very good.
QuoteQuoteI say get a moped.
Oh! A Vespa!
Everything will be 30+ miles away from where we are going to move so that won't work very good.
They get like 50mpg.
QuoteQuoteQuoteI say get a moped.
Oh! A Vespa!
Everything will be 30+ miles away from where we are going to move so that won't work very good.
They get like 50mpg.
Did I mention that that 30 mile drive involved a major arterie of Houston with lots of traffic and a 70 mph speed limit.
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteI say get a moped.
Oh! A Vespa!
Everything will be 30+ miles away from where we are going to move so that won't work very good.
They get like 50mpg.
Did I mention that that 30 mile drive involved a major arterie of Houston with lots of traffic and a 70 mph speed limit.
Fine. You be that way.
Do it redneck style: handmedowns!
QuoteI agree with Raza. You should get a Vespa.
See? Everyone agrees.
Top speed is about 80 KMH on a Vespa, or 50 mph. Definitely not fast, but fast enough for most highways.
QuoteTop speed is about 80 KMH on a Vespa, or 50 mph. Definitely not fast, but fast enough for most highways.
Not for one with many big trucks going over the 70 mph speed limit, mopeds are pretty much useless imho.
QuoteQuoteTop speed is about 80 KMH on a Vespa, or 50 mph. Definitely not fast, but fast enough for most highways.
Not for one with many big trucks going over the 70 mph speed limit, mopeds are pretty much useless imho.
I would not want to be in one at that speed. Have you tried looking at a used motorcycle maybe?
QuoteQuoteQuoteTop speed is about 80 KMH on a Vespa, or 50 mph. Definitely not fast, but fast enough for most highways.
Not for one with many big trucks going over the 70 mph speed limit, mopeds are pretty much useless imho.
I would not want to be in one at that speed. Have you tried looking at a used motorcycle maybe?
What happens when it rains and I have to get to work? A motor cycle won't work, besides the fact that my over protective parents would never let me have one.
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteTop speed is about 80 KMH on a Vespa, or 50 mph.? Definitely not fast, but fast enough for most highways.
Not for one with many big trucks going over the 70 mph speed limit, mopeds are pretty much useless imho.
I would not want to be in one at that speed. Have you tried looking at a used motorcycle maybe?
What happens when it rains and I have to get to work? A motor cycle won't work, besides the fact that my over protective parents would never let me have one.
yea, motorcycles are very dangerous. I would never drive on as a daily driver on the street.
That's really too bad. If I lived somewhere where it wasn't winter 6 months of the year, I would definitley have a motorcycle as my only method of transportation.
QuoteThat's really too bad. If I lived somewhere where it wasn't winter 6 months of the year, I would definitley have a motorcycle as my only method of transportation.
Lets say youre in a crash with one...there is absolutely nothing protecting you. If a car nudges you and you go down on a highway, and you hit the pavement at 70mph, even if you survive, you have to worry about getting run over. Its really not my thing.
QuoteQuoteThat's really too bad. If I lived somewhere where it wasn't winter 6 months of the year, I would definitley have a motorcycle as my only method of transportation.
Lets say youre in a crash with one...there is absolutely nothing protecting you. If a car nudges you and you go down on a highway, and you hit the pavement at 70mph, even if you survive, you have to worry about getting run over. Its really not my thing.
I know the dangers, and I would definitley take them..
Though I am a speed freak, I am also quite cautious.
I biked year round (2 feet of snow, whatever, I needed to get to school) ever single day for 4 years of my life until I got a car.
The winter biking taught me alot of traction and how to use it, and it also gave me an excellent balence on the bike because some times one wheel would slip sideways when on an ice bump. But I do know that with motorbikes is't far easier to slip up, and the dynamics arn't quite the same.
Besides, the element of danger is probably what gives me the biggest rush. Not that I'm a adrenaline junkie, but you have to have you fun somehow.
QuoteQuoteQuoteThat's really too bad. If I lived somewhere where it wasn't winter 6 months of the year, I would definitley have a motorcycle as my only method of transportation.
Lets say youre in a crash with one...there is absolutely nothing protecting you. If a car nudges you and you go down on a highway, and you hit the pavement at 70mph, even if you survive, you have to worry about getting run over. Its really not my thing.
I know the dangers, and I would definitley take them..
Though I am a speed freak, I am also quite cautious.
I biked year round (2 feet of snow, whatever, I needed to get to school) ever single day for 4 years of my life until I got a car.
The winter biking taught me alot of traction and how to use it, and it also gave me an excellent balence on the bike because some times one wheel would slip sideways when on an ice bump.
Besides, the element of danger is probably what gives me the biggest rush. Not that I'm a adrenaline junkie, but you have to have you fun somehow.
I guess you could look at it that way...but I would be scared of not falling off, but of getting hit or something.
I would think that a lot of motorcycle accidents are the result of people being stupid on them.
We've all seen those morons on croch rockets flying down a busy road at 70 mph while popping a wheelie. That's a good way to get yourself killed.
The other thing is people not seeing you. That's why I think loud pipes are a good idea for motorcycles; even if they don't see you, they should at least hear you coming.
QuoteI would think that a lot of motorcycle accidents are the result of people being stupid on them.
We've all seen those morons on croch rockets flying down a busy road at 70 mph while popping a wheelie. That's a good way to get yourself killed.
The other thing is people not seeing you. That's why I think loud pipes are a good idea for motorcycles; even if they don't see you, they should at least hear you coming.
I think Motorcyclists are at fault for that, since a lot of time they try to take up less space than a car, when really, they should just stay in the middle of the lane, but instead they are darting in an out of cars, popping wheelies, etc. Its very disconcerting to other drivers, and very dangerous as well.
I would never take the risk of driving a motorcyle in heavy traffic, it is just stupid and can't be all that fun unless you drive at break neck speed which is, of course, even more stupid. However, I bet that there aren't many things more relaxing and fun than driving a bike on a nice country road.
QuoteI would never take the risk of driving a motorcyle in heavy traffic, it is just stupid and can't be all that fun unless you drive at break neck speed which is, of course, even more stupid. However, I bet that there aren't many things more relaxing and fun than driving a bike on a nice country road.
It definitely would be nice. I still would rather drive a sports car though.
Thats why those street legal go cart things are kickass.
I hate crotch rockets, I would love to get an older used roadking though, loud and comfy.
Um, I thought we agreed. Vespas.
QuoteUm, I thought we agreed. Vespas.
huh?
QuoteQuoteUm, I thought we agreed. Vespas.
huh?
We agreed the car Tim was going to get would be a vespa.