The Detailing Thread

[MrH]

Had a body guy at my shop do a machine polish on the WRX. Tomorrow I'll fill in all the rock chips, then It's time for some wax. Have your recommendations changed at all with that?

Just curious:  How do you fill in your rock chips?  I tried filling a few tiny ones on the BRZ with factory touch up paint.  I couldn't get it to look decent at all and ended up removing it before it dried.

[S204STi]

If it hits metal I get one of those primer bottles with the ballpoint pen tip and give it enough coats to nearly level it with the surface of the paint.  Then when that dries, the Subaru factory touchup with the ballpoint tip again.  Sometimes the brush is necessary and I just lay off the caffeine so I don't smear it everywhere...

It never looks quite right again, but it's better than corrosion and shit, IMO.

[giant_mtb]

Had a body guy at my shop do a machine polish on the WRX. Tomorrow I'll fill in all the rock chips, then It's time for some wax. Have your recommendations changed at all with that?

Nice. Recommendations as far as...what...?

[giant_mtb]

If it hits metal I get one of those primer bottles with the ballpoint pen tip and give it enough coats to nearly level it with the surface of the paint.  Then when that dries, the Subaru factory touchup with the ballpoint tip again.  Sometimes the brush is necessary and I just lay off the caffeine so I don't smear it everywhere...

It never looks quite right again, but it's better than corrosion and shit, IMO.

Yes. Touch up paint is never going to look anything close to as good as a properly sprayed/cleared paint. It's best function is to prevent corrosion for sure. And it at least keeps the paint from appearing to have lots of chips in it. Most people that look at your car will hardly notice a dab of touch up paint if it's color-matched and not applied while you're on meth...it's better than seeing metal everywhere, especially on colors that really contrast with the metal underneath (reds, dark colors, etc).

[S204STi]

Nice. Recommendations as far as...what...?

I mean, should I apply a sealant and then wax over that, or is wax fine, or just sealant by itself?  I don't want something that is going to haze and have to get sanded off...

[S204STi]

Also wondering how to protect polycarb lenses from hazing, other than a clear bra.  The lenses already have too many cracks to justify a clear mask.  Will save that for when I replace the lamps altogether down the road.

[MX793]

Also wondering how to protect polycarb lenses from hazing, other than a clear bra.  The lenses already have too many cracks to justify a clear mask.  Will save that for when I replace the lamps altogether down the road.

The hazing is caused by UV.  You can buy kits that include a UV protection treatment for the lenses.

[giant_mtb]

I mean, should I apply a sealant and then wax over that, or is wax fine, or just sealant by itself?  I don't want something that is going to haze and have to get sanded off...

It's up to you. You'd be fine with waxing...sealants are essentially non-existent in stores anyhow. If a sealant/wax is difficult to remove after hazing, it's because you used too much.  People often blame the product, but it's usually user error.

[giant_mtb]

Also wondering how to protect polycarb lenses from hazing, other than a clear bra.  The lenses already have too many cracks to justify a clear mask.  Will save that for when I replace the lamps altogether down the road.

Any UV protectant. Wax, sealant, 303, sunscreen...

[S204STi]

Thx.

[Byteme]

Just curious:  How do you fill in your rock chips? 

Turtle Wax used to make a tinted polish; a choice of red, black green, blue and who knows what else.  It was actually fairly good for making the chips much, much less noticable on the front fascia.  I can't find the red any more so I bought a bottle of black since the Miata is merlot.  The black really hides the rock chips.  I figured "what the hell" and tried ot on the 6 which is a shade between red and maroon.  It hid those chips as well. 

[giant_mtb]

I believe they make a white one now, too.

[S204STi]

I went with Nu Finish.  Initial results are pleasing; will reapply again in 30 days as recommended and see how it does.

[giant_mtb]

Now you can go through the car wash 24/7 and still get water beading!! :)

[S204STi]

Haha, yep.  Also, with this stuff I applied it in more of a back and forth motion; should I still swirl it on like I would a paste wax?

[giant_mtb]

Either technique is fine.

[S204STi]

Gotcha, thanks.

[giant_mtb]

Just make sure you're getting proper, even coverage, whichever technique you use. Which...I'm sure you did.

[S204STi]

Just make sure you're getting proper, even coverage, whichever technique you use. Which...I'm sure you did.

Yup.

[Morris Minor]

http://youtu.be/aVUtdlzrktI

[giant_mtb]

http://youtu.be/aVUtdlzrktI

Spot on.  Love this guy's videos.  I have glass buffing pads, which work great with normal cutting compound as I was too cheap at the time to buy the glass specific polish as well.  Still makes a world of difference and is a totally sellable service, but I'd never thought about using a razor blade.  I'll have to get me one of those long screwdriver attachment things and try it out.

[r0tor]

I had some goop that you would put on a polishing rag wrapped around a credit card and it would soften up the touch up paint and let you level it... Worked pretty well but can't think of the name.

[giant_mtb]

Some pictures from my first two days of the detailing season...





The guy's brother went hard with some rubbing compound trying to get some gunk off.  Wayyy too much pressure using the wrong cleaner.  It was like this all the way around the lower half of the car.  Nothin' some Diamond Cut and a wool pad can't take care of.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

I wish you were closer, I'd have 3 for you to do. At least 2 times during the summer.

I guess I'll just do it myself.

Anyway, You ever use Collinite waxes? I sell them here at the store and a lot of the bodyshop guys love them and the few pro detailers I sell to love the stuff.

I sell the Insulator 845, Fleetwax(paste) and get some of the Marque D'Elegance from time to time. I have a tin of that at home at it's pretty good in my non professional opinion.

[giant_mtb]

You always seem to do a great job yourself, dunno what you need me for besides the "true" professional's touch and the time commitment.

I have used Collinite.  Awesome stuff...a friend of mine introduced me to the 845 a few years ago and I loved it.  The Audi had a couple of coats of it on one summer.  Haven't bought any myself, though...it's always enticing me when I'm browsing Autogeek, though.

Collinite is a bit too expensive to justify using on everyday vehicles for me.  I use Meguiar's #26 "Hi-Tech Yellow" carnauba and buy it by the gallon, which easily lasts me a summer, and as you can see, it does quite a good job.  Of course, half the battle of getting good results with your wax is the washing process.  I have a good stash of more expensive/higher quality polishes and waxes I use occasionally (for buff jobs, newer cars, my own car, etc.), but 90% of the time I'm grabbing for the Meguiar's.  Next year (depending on where the business is at) I may take a step up in products.  A good chunk of the stuff I use currently is from the Meguiar's Detailer series and/or the Mirror Glaze series.  It's all great stuff for the money.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

You always seem to do a great job yourself, dunno what you need me for besides the "true" professional's touch and the time commitment.

I have used Collinite.  Awesome stuff...a friend of mine introduced me to the 845 a few years ago and I loved it.  The Audi had a couple of coats of it on one summer.  Haven't bought any myself, though...it's always enticing me when I'm browsing Autogeek, though.

Collinite is a bit too expensive to justify using on everyday vehicles for me.  I use Meguiar's #26 "Hi-Tech Yellow" carnauba and buy it by the gallon, which easily lasts me a summer, and as you can see, it does quite a good job.  Of course, half the battle of getting good results with your wax is the washing process.  I have a good stash of more expensive/higher quality polishes and waxes I use occasionally (for buff jobs, newer cars, my own car, etc.), but 90% of the time I'm grabbing for the Meguiar's.  Next year (depending on where the business is at) I may take a step up in products.  A good chunk of the stuff I use currently is from the Meguiar's Detailer series and/or the Mirror Glaze series.  It's all great stuff for the money.

I'm not bad at detailing by no means, but I'm sure I would get 75% of your results in 2 or 3x the time.

It's not too bad cost wise(the 845) but I'm sure it is no where near the price per unit of Meg's yellow in a gallon. I use #26 in paste form for my general use wax, and I have some 845 and Marque that I use if I happen to do a real thorough job of detailing and just feel like putting something "better" on.

The bulk of what I offer here for detailing is Meguiars Detailing products and mirror glaze, along with wizards, some presta products and 3M products. I have 3M, buff n shine and schlegal pads. I've used pretty much everything I've sold.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

The one thing that I do have an issue with, compared to your results, is the underhood area.

What do you do to clean, and what do you use for dressing?

I have some Meg's APC and Super Degreaser at home. Mostly use the APC for interior stuff.

[giant_mtb]

I'm not bad at detailing by no means, but I'm sure I would get 75% of your results in 2 or 3x the time.

It's not too bad cost wise(the 845) but I'm sure it is no where near the price per unit of Meg's yellow in a gallon. I use #26 in paste form for my general use wax, and I have some 845 and Marque that I use if I happen to do a real thorough job of detailing and just feel like putting something "better" on.

The bulk of what I offer here for detailing is Meguiars Detailing products and mirror glaze, along with wizards, some presta products and 3M products. I have 3M, buff n shine and schlegal pads. I've used pretty much everything I've sold.

Yup, that's basically my line of thinking, too.  Save the good stuff for the...good stuff.

I'd love to get into 3M's stuff for buffing and polishing, but it's tough to drop that much ca$h on a full line of products (cut, swirl remover, polish, wax, seal, all necessary pads, etc.).  So all I've done is acquire a 3M product here and there over the years.  Bought one finishing pad (8-inch Perfect-It) locally and the quality difference between it and my go-to Lake Country pads was instantly noticeable.  But that one pad was like $32 (dunno how much of a markup that is, but 3M stuff is pretty expensive locally) and the velcro pad starting coming off after a couple cleanings, so I was kinda bummed.

[giant_mtb]

The one thing that I do have an issue with, compared to your results, is the underhood area.

What do you do to clean, and what do you use for dressing?

I have some Meg's APC and Super Degreaser at home. Mostly use the APC for interior stuff.

My underhood cleaning process is essentially:

1.  Cover anything that shouldn't directly get wet with a dry microfiber.  Air intake tube, major wiring harnesses, battery, etc., those can all be cleaned by hand after.
2.  Rinse everything, always using low pressure and as little water as possible, starting with the underside of the hood and working down into the engine bay.
3.  Spray every surface down with degreaser.  I use some "industrial purple" stuff by Zep I get at Menards by the gallon (obviously diluted...stuff is really really strong.  I also use it for tires, wheelwells, and bug gunk).  Always stand to the side of the car and spray the backsides of things, too (radiator fans/shrouds, rear of the engine, etc.).
4.  Soapy (Dawn) water and a fender brush...start by scrubbing the underside of the hood itself (the exposed metal parts, anyway) and work your way down.  Always remember to get the top of the firewall/area where it and the windshield meet.  Only scrub engine components that can be/need to be scrubbed (strut tower area, hood release area, engine cover, other miscellaneous things that are easy to get to) as the degreaser should hopefully take care of the rest.   
5.  Rinse thoroughly, again starting at the top using low pressure/volume.
6.  Inspect, re-degrease anything that isn't quite as clean as you'd like and/or give it a quick scrub.  Small brushes are nice to have on hand for tight spaces.
7.  Allow it to dry (I usually stick a fan on it while I'm doing the interior)
8.  Take some microfiber rags and go to town with some dressing; basically anything black or plastic...engine cover, rubber tubing, wiring harnesses, fan shrouds, coil packs, brake fluid cap, oil cap, etc.  I use Meguiar's Hyper Dressing.  Getting into all the nooks and crannies is critical (like on that Accord, you have to "floss" the cloth through the accordian pattern on the air intake tube).  Also wipe clean any surfaces that didn't quite get clean enough via the degrease and rinse (and anything you may have covered), and don't forget to dress the plastic at the base of the windshield/top of the firewall.

And that's really about it.  Give anything a final wipedown if it needs it such as the very top of the grille where it meets the hood, and...yeah.  All in all, I probably spend about 30-35 minutes on the process, depending on how dirty it is.  15 minutes for the initial wash and another 15 for the final wipedown and dress.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

Yup, that's basically my line of thinking, too.  Save the good stuff for the...good stuff.

I'd love to get into 3M's stuff for buffing and polishing, but it's tough to drop that much ca$h on a full line of products (cut, swirl remover, polish, wax, seal, all necessary pads, etc.).  So all I've done is acquire a 3M product here and there over the years.  Bought one finishing pad (8-inch Perfect-It) locally and the quality difference between it and my go-to Lake Country pads was instantly noticeable.  But that one pad was like $32 (dunno how much of a markup that is, but 3M stuff is pretty expensive locally) and the velcro pad starting coming off after a couple cleanings, so I was kinda bummed.

That is spendy, must be a regional thing. Most of my 3M one sided velcro pads are 22-24 dollars, compounds are around 40 a qt and polish is around 45.