So, I changed a brake light/tail light bulb today and I feel pretty accomplished. But, there's some shit that needs fixing.
I had the male part of this screw/bolt thing shear off from the tail lamp assembly. Is there anyway to fix this without buying a new assembly?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4401_zpsd54138af.jpg)
A trunk liner fastener was missing when I went to take it off. Is there a way to buy one of these little guys (they work really well!)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4406_zps94ea8098.jpg)
The drivers seat is torn to shit. If I take it to an upholsterer, can they just re-do the center portion of the seat, or am I going to have to get all of it redone?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4408_zps8fea127d.jpg)
And there's this white buildup on the wheel that doesn't come off with wheel spray and a scub. It's almost like a calcium or something like that. Does anyone know what this shit is and what will get rid of it?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4409_zps27bafeb0.jpg)
There's rust on the rocket panels, the worst of which is right along the seam under the door which seems to separate the front and rear rocket panels. Would it be a massive job for a body shop to get rid of the rust on this? Is it a part of the main frame structure? Should I even bother?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/a7249d9a-f981-4a57-84c7-0cbb81797d90_zps8d0d7850.jpg~original)
#1 Because it's a metal screw that's broken in a plastic housing, I'd say you're SOL
#2 Looks like a pretty standard clip, you should be able to get 'em at a hardware store (or if you can't, any dealership but I dunno how much they'd charge)
#3 No clue
#4 I don't even see any white build up
#5 I had rust on the rocker panels in the SVTC underneath the skirts. Honestly, hell of a lot more work than it's worth. I figured it wouldn't be too bad and kinda started tapping on it with my hand, then noticed it gave so I started to knock it off...and then I was missing quite a bit of bodywork. Had a buddy weld in some sheetmetal for me before I rattled canned it and put the skirt back on. Lesson of the day - if you think there's a little bit of rust, there's a hell lot more there.
Quote from: SVT_Power on November 21, 2013, 01:27:00 PM
#1 Because it's a metal screw that's broken in a plastic housing, I'd say you're SOL
Fuck
Quote
#4 I don't even see any white build up
It's the stuff that looks like scratches. I need to go back out and run my fingers over it and clean the wheels. Maybe it is scratches, somehow.
Quote
#5 I had rust on the rocker panels in the SVTC underneath the skirts. Honestly, hell of a lot more work than it's worth. I figured it wouldn't be too bad and kinda started tapping on it with my hand, then noticed it gave so I started to knock it off...and then I was missing quite a bit of bodywork. Had a buddy weld in some sheetmetal for me before I rattled canned it and put the skirt back on. Lesson of the day - if you think there's a little bit of rust, there's a hell lot more there.
Fuck
Quote from: HotRodPilot on November 21, 2013, 01:39:19 PM
Fuck
If it's still solid all along, just wire wheel it off and get POR-15 or something and coat it. Look on miata.net on how to check your car for debris in general - off the top of my head, I know that it's a good idea to pull the splash shields every year or so and dig out all the gunk that gets past them from the bottom of the fenders (I am overdue for that)
And you had to drop the whole light out to change the bulb though? On my car you can twist most of them out through the holes in the body.
The stuff on the wheel is probably aluminum oxide. You can try to polish it off (you'll have to remove it either abrasively or with acid), but it will just come back unless you re-seal the wheel with fresh paint and/or clearcoat.
1. Look on ebay for cheap lights. I could fix that for you probably if I had the light with me. You'll need a new post to glue into the old ones spot and you'll need to dig whats left of the original post out. That will be the hard part. Hey, what side is this anyway? I could have one out in my collection.
2. That's a normal Japanese clip. I'm not really sure where you can just go and pick one up just like that. But Mazda can get them for you for dirt cheap. I have like a billion of them.
3. I see no reason why you can't just have the bottom done. I think you can get seat covers for cheap too if need be.
4. I can't tell anything about that without looking at it.
5. Impossible for me to say without looking at it. It could just be surface rust. Or it could be a big fucking deal. If it's rusting between the rocker and quarter then it's a bid deal. And it's a problem with older miata's because that's where the chassis flexes because of the lack of a roof.
Could you take better pictures of the rust and the body line between the quarter and rocker. It would help me out with letting you know how big a deal it will be.
Oh, and it won't kill you to not have that one nut in the taillamp. It's not going to fall off because of the one nut gone. I would plug up the hole with a grommet however to keep water out of the trunk.
Thanks guys, more pictures to come.
#1 Cut off the metal stud flush with the plastic of the tail light assembly then drill out the remaining metal. By a stud the same size as the one that was broken off, put it in place with JB weld. Make sure you get it square to te housing so it fits the mounting holes in the body.
#2 Look at Lowes and Home Depot. The both have drawers of automitive trim fasteners in the nuts and bolts section of the store. Alsocheck an autoparts store, they generally carry those things.
#3 Any upholstery shop can replace just the center section. The trick is to match the original material.
#4 Try vinegar and a tooth brush.
#5 The rockers carry the load. They, along with the center tunnel, are all that holds the front body of the car to the rear body. the floor pans are more or less along for the ride. When you have visible rust you usually have much more hidden rust. Someone who knows what they are doing needs to eyeball this. Go to a body shop you trust and ask them.
Those plastic clips are used on motorcycles to secure fairings. I've seen them in small and large sizes, so you can find them for no more than a few bucks for a pack of 10 anywhere motorcycle gear is sold or a moto dealership
Driver side:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4433_zpsbe73d4b3.jpg)
Passenger side:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4432_zpse647b7ea.jpg)
Some coating shit lies beneath the paint:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4434_zps17b4da92.jpg)
Is there hope?
Houston we have a problem. That's some of the worst rust I've seen on a NB. I mean they can grind the outer rust off and "fix" the problem of the outside without much of a problem. But I fear from looking at that picture that you'll have rust on the back side of the seams and the rocker and the quarter. And you can't do shit about that without it costing an arm and a leg. If you're not keeping the car for 10 years or something then having the outside done and selling the car one day will work. If you're keeping this thing for a long time then get ready to bend over.
Quote from: Onslaught on November 23, 2013, 10:35:40 AM
Houston we have a problem. That's some of the worst rust I've seen on a NB. I mean they can grind the outer rust off and "fix" the problem of the outside without much of a problem. But I fear from looking at that picture that you'll have rust on the back side of the seams and the rocker and the quarter. And you can't do shit about that without it costing an arm and a leg. If you're not keeping the car for 10 years or something then having the outside done and selling the car one day will work. If you're keeping this thing for a long time then get ready to bend over.
Arm+leg = $2k? $10k?
I presume that as it is now UK registered you have to get it MOT-ed?
Rust and MOT go together like oil and water........... they are supposed only to worry about it if it is structural, but if it is (and Joshua's comments are worrying about the gravity relative to others he's seen), you could be in the doo-doo here, I'm afraid. Mind you, there are MOT testers and there are MOT testers, if you know what I mean.............
The rust repair could cost anywhere from a couple hundred to a thousand or more, depending on how much turns out to be there and how much work the shop would do(IE. spot repair vs a more thorough repair).
If you wanted to do the work yourself, you could probably get about 100 bucks work of supplies and do it yourself.
The broken stud on the light might actually be pretty easy to fix. Alot of those lights(that i've seen) used a push in stud that has a rough cylinder that bites into the plastic. Probably not the best explanation, but if you saw one it would be obvious.
Don't know if that light is like that, but if it is you can just yank it out and stick a new one in.
If it's rusted too bad around the seams then it will take a new quarter and rocker to repair correctly. Or have a used pice sectioned in. And in your car it's on both sides.
Anything else and your just covering up the cancer and it will come back.
I'm going to make an appointment with this place and see how much they'll charge me
http://www.themx5restorer.co.uk/pages/services/welding.php (http://www.themx5restorer.co.uk/pages/services/welding.php)
I also need to have an oil leak fixed from around either the pan or the rear crank seal, or both.
When I was on track yesterday, there was a noise that popped up after about 2 laps that was primarily related to engine speed. The higher the RPM, the more pronounced the sound. G forces also had an effect, under hard braking when rev matching it would be the loudest, and then in high-g corners it would get louder too. When the car cooled off or if I wasn't pushing it, it would go away. Almost sounded like running over a rumble strip. I could feel a little vibration in the butt-o-meter, too. I'm guessing something in the drivetrain was rubbing against the FM butterfly brace. Maybe the bushings heated up and gave the drivetrain more movement after a couple of laps? This one will be hard to diagnose.
The trunk would also not open from the console lever or the key in the lock cylinder at the end of the day, I had to throw everything in the passenger seat. When I got to the gas station (12.8mpg, wooo) about 15 minutes later, it worked again. What the f.
Lol. Miata is angry about track days. Lazy Miata.
I'd like to get some new shocks, but don't want to lower the ride height. Seems most everything on the aftermarket is all about lowering.
Maybe I should just head to the UK equivalent of Monroe? :lol:
Quote from: HotRodPilot on November 24, 2013, 10:47:41 AM
I'd like to get some new shocks, but don't want to lower the ride height. Seems most everything on the aftermarket is all about lowering.
Maybe I should just head to the UK equivalent of Monroe? :lol:
Custom coilvers. Ground Controls are affordable, and you can choose your spring length and everything
I think the Flyin Miata coilovers I got are supposed to be a very minimal lowering vs ride height.
Do not get the racingbeat ones. They will shake your teeth out. I will shoot mine when I take them off.
I'm pretty happy with my FM coilovers, and they are pretty reasonable. Can be a bit stiff on the rough northern roads.
QuoteHi Rich
To retrim your seats in cloth will cost around £400 ($640) , not sure if I could find the exact same material though.
In leather it will cost £675 ($1,090).
Heated seats usually cost £450 ($730) but if installed at the same time as the trim it will cost £400.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Simon franklin
FML (Dollar conversion in parenthesis) $1,700 for heated leather seats.
Welp, I'm going to drop the car off at a local joint to have the rust taken care of. http://www.coopers-garage.com/ (http://www.coopers-garage.com/)
They seem like they give a shit about cars, so it should be in good hands. I'm flying back to NY for a week, so the cancer (rust) should be gone by then.
I'm also going to have the following fixed:
Seat re-trim
Rear main oil leak
Cam cover oil leak
New clutch +flywheel (maybe)
Secure rear bulkhead/wind blocker nut
Track day/high speed sound - I think this is the rear diff. I hear the sound anytime the car gets warm and going 90+mph. Also when I wheel hop. (sounds like I'm running over the apex berm)
Console cover repair
Courtesy light fix
Glovebox fix http://www.miata.net/garage/glovebox.htm (http://www.miata.net/garage/glovebox.htm)
Oil temp gauge on the fritz on cold start
New brake pads
New shocks and top will have to come later. I've had a lot of thinking to do, on if I should just leave it and sell it when I get back to the US (and buy an NC/ND), but there's just too many dirt cheap track days to be had here to just leave the car the way it is and dump oil every track day and be nervous the rear diff is going to fall out the back.
Damn, with all those problems(and the rust), you should have just sold it and bought a NC or something.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on January 17, 2014, 07:41:16 AM
Damn, with all those problems(and the rust), you should have just sold it and bought a NC or something.
But track days, because racecar
Really all I need to do is fix the oil leak, brake pads, and sort the rear diff out and I would be "good" for the track. If I'm spending the money on that I might as well do the rest and keep it longer.
It does have some sentimental value to me., been around the US and Europe in it.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on January 17, 2014, 07:45:31 AM
Really all I need to do is fix the oil leak, brake pads, and sort the rear diff out and I would be "good" for the track. If I'm spending the money on that I might as well do the rest and keep it longer.
It does have some sentimental value to me., been around the US and Europe in it.
cool
What's the sound you're hearing at speed? I have both a lot of gear whine and this odd rushing/gnashing noise that only happens under power - after a long time across 2 diffs I realized the latter is just an odd in-system exhaust sound of some kind.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on January 17, 2014, 10:44:43 AM
What's the sound you're hearing at speed? I have both a lot of gear whine and this odd rushing/gnashing noise that only happens under power - after a long time across 2 diffs I realized the latter is just an odd in-system exhaust sound of some kind.
Since he drives a miata, I imagine what he's hearing is the muffled laughter of other motorists as he drives by.
Lol, think of what you'd hear if you ran over a rumble strip at a race track at the exit of a corner. It's mostly in the sound, and it sounds like the diff bouncing/moving/gyrating against something in the back, maybe just moving in it's mounts?
Possibly sub frame mounts too?
Broken rear diff mount maybe?
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on January 17, 2014, 10:49:30 AM
Since he drives a miata, I imagine what he's hearing is the muffled laughter of other motorists as he drives by.
Hey, when the whole country thinks the world is flat, it's still round. :huh:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on January 26, 2014, 07:07:47 PM
Hey, when the whole country thinks the world is flat, it's still round. :huh:
Only if you ignore the bumpy parts.
Bumps are relative, man.
Quote from: Rupert on January 26, 2014, 08:18:15 PM
Bumps are relative, man.
And much sweeter in an awesome car
Reading some more, looks like I've found others with the same issue.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=439161 (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=439161)
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=261156 (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=261156)
It's more like a rubbing/rumbling than anything. The problem seems to be u joint flatsport (?) or rear diff movement.
I blew some dough on some shit. Clutch, shock tower brace, rotors, pads, fluid, braided lines, 2 new S-Drives, a trunk carpet, and bluetooth reciever. New shocks, reupholstered seats, and rust removal to come soon.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on February 02, 2014, 07:20:17 PM
Reading some more, looks like I've found others with the same issue.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=439161 (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=439161)
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=261156 (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=261156)
It's more like a rubbing/rumbling than anything. The problem seems to be u joint flatsport (?) or rear diff movement.
I blew some dough on some shit. Clutch, shock tower brace, rotors, pads, fluid, braided lines, 2 new S-Drives, a trunk carpet, and bluetooth reciever. New shocks, reupholstered seats, and rust removal to come soon.
Didn't your car come with a strut tower brace from the factory? or is it a rear strut tower brace?
Also, you might get better stiffening from a pair of frog arms than a strut bar. My car has some pretty bad(IMO) cowl shake after I stiffened up the suspension, it has a factory strut tower brace in the front.
I plan on installing the frog bars before spring.
Frog arms will come later, if I keep it that long (~2 years more). The shock tower brace is less expensive and less labor intensive. It didn't come with a front tower brace.
Keep us posted on the frog arms. I'm curious how well they do. I wish adding a structural beam from the cowl to the ear bulkead on the driver and passenger side of the car wouldn't be so impractical. I think that'd take care of most of the flimsiness.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on February 02, 2014, 08:45:49 PM
Frog arms will come later, if I keep it that long (~2 years more). The shock tower brace is less expensive and less labor intensive. It didn't come with a front tower brace.
Keep us posted on the frog arms. I'm curious how well they do. I wish adding a structural beam from the cowl to the ear bulkead on the driver and passenger side of the car wouldn't be so impractical. I think that'd take care of most of the flimsiness.
People who add door bars say they make a difference. The more cut-down ones look like a decent compromise.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on February 02, 2014, 07:20:17 PM
I blew some dough on some shit. Clutch, shock tower brace, rotors, pads, fluid, braided lines, 2 new S-Drives, a trunk carpet, and bluetooth reciever. New shocks, reupholstered seats, and rust removal to come soon.
Which shock tower brace did you buy?
Flyin Miata. It isn't pretty, but supposed to be good. We'll see if I notice a difference.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on February 05, 2014, 12:31:30 AM
Flyin Miata. It isn't pretty, but supposed to be good. We'll see if I notice a difference.
Do tell, I'm kind of interested in one. Though I should probably check if it'd clear my hood.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on February 05, 2014, 12:31:30 AM
Flyin Miata. It isn't pretty, but supposed to be good. We'll see if I notice a difference.
Is that the one that just goes from shock tower to shock tower or is it the one that also ties into the firewall?
I put an OEM brace on my 95M and I think there was a difference but if there was it was minimal at best.
FWIW, I was told that if you don't buy the three point brace you are better off with the OEM brace out of a salvage yard. It's a pretty stout assembly and fits like a glove.
New head unit, 2 new S drives, redline steering wheel wrap, and oil are in. Waiting on brake stuff from FM and some new shocks. Hopefully by March the car will be ready to rock and roll.
"New head unit"
unnecessary weight
"2 new S drives"
unnecessary weight
"redline steering wheel wrap"
Bling
"and oil are in"
Waste of time, I never change oil.
I'm actually really excited about the head unit. The volume knob doesn't really work and takes patience (sometimes you turn it down and the volume goes up).
I'll have bluetooth, too, so won't have to do the fm transmitter device thing.
Is stereo theft still a thing? Thats the biggest reason I haven't upgraded; tearing the top to get to the stereo or having to take off the faceplate.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on February 14, 2014, 08:05:26 AM
I'm actually really excited about the head unit. The volume knob doesn't really work and takes patience (sometimes you turn it down and the volume goes up).
I'll have bluetooth, too, so won't have to do the fm transmitter device thing.
Is stereo theft still a thing? Thats the biggest reason I haven't upgraded; tearing the top to get to the stereo or having to take off the faceplate.
Rarely hear of stereo theft around here.
I put a kenwood(I think) deck in my NB so I could stream pandora. Go on a lot of long drives and I like having good tunes.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 14, 2014, 12:02:34 PM
Rarely hear of stereo theft around here.
I put a kenwood(I think) deck in my NB so I could stream pandora. Go on a lot of long drives and I like having good tunes.
The cell network here is just too crap to stream anything, But it'll be nice to do back in the US.
You could pop the headunit and just leave it under the seat. Good thieves probably know that people do that though. How much is the headunit? If it's not over $150 I'd guess it's not really worth a thieves' time....
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on March 01, 2014, 06:44:19 AM
You could pop the headunit and just leave it under the seat. Good thieves probably know that people do that though. How much is the headunit? If it's not over $150 I'd guess it's not really worth a thieves' time....
I think you are severely overestimating the intelligence of the everyday stereo theif.
Well, the car wouldn't start. Probably fuel filter. Towed to a good joint in Bury St Edmunds. New rotors, pads, lines, clutch, head unit, shocks, and shock tower bar dropped off. Asked them to get rid of the rust and fix the oil leak.
Hopefully I can get it back in a couple weeks. So f'ing excited to road trip to Germany.
The shop said they would start on the car yesterday (28 March). What should be a realistic completion date I should try and hold them to? I told them two weeks on the 24th, but since they just started it, I'm doubting it can be done that fast (they didn't tell me otherwise).
I'd think 4-5 days on the mechanical stuff, maybe 2-3 on the rust, an unidentified oil leak might take an extra day or 2 if it's really in a bad spot. If they have any wait time for parts it might drag it out a bit more.
I'd be hoping to hear from them by the middle of next week, maybe drop them a call on monday and see if they can update you on progress and the unidentified leak(which they should want to call you about anyway).
Thanks! They haven't started on the rust yet. I've just sent an e-mail to see if they'd seam weld some stuff for me while they are messing with the metal. Hopefully they do!
https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/seamweld.php (https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/seamweld.php)
Quote from: HotRodPilot on April 03, 2014, 07:49:08 AM
Thanks! They haven't started on the rust yet. I've just sent an e-mail to see if they'd seam weld some stuff for me while they are messing with the metal. Hopefully they do!
https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/seamweld.php (https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/seamweld.php)
All that welding should be done when the cage is getting installed......
you are putting a cage in it, right?
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on April 03, 2014, 08:42:54 AM
All that welding should be done when the cage is getting installed......
you are putting a cage in it, right?
heck no. If anything I've given serious thought about door bars. I don't want anything in the way of the open top experience. Catch-22.
I've been considering the Boss Frog Frog Ribs door bars. They have a pretty unintrusive design compared to more basic one-giant-bar designs without costing much more. Supposedly they're only a bother with the top up.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on November 23, 2013, 09:59:41 AM
Driver side:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4433_zpsbe73d4b3.jpg)
Passenger side:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4432_zpse647b7ea.jpg)
Some coating shit lies beneath the paint:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_4434_zps17b4da92.jpg)
Is there hope?
Shop called, they said that there was more rust on the inside panel, as Josh was afraid of. They said it should still be done by Friday. I didn't think bodywork could be done so fast. Especially on a structural member that needs new metal welded in.
I'm really terrified of how it's going to look. I wish I could've brought it to Josh's shop
Pretty much anything can be done fast if you have the right tools. Or take short cuts. :devil:
Yup, poor paint and body work can be done very fast. Sometimes in as little as half a day.
Is 2.5/3 days in the body shop pushing it?
It all depends.To tell you the truth I worked on so many Miata's over the years that I can put in a rocker and quarter in less then a day. Pull it in at 8:00 in the AM and have it in paint by say 3-4 that day. Because it's a convertible and you don't have to section the quarter in at the window post and things like that. On a normal car you've got way more welding and body filler to work with. I could do a Miata quarter without any filler needed at all. And if you know what you're doing you don't need to take the soft top all the way off. If the shop has a pro spot welder then it could be done even faster then back when I was doing them with Mig welders. With a spot welder you don't even have a weld to grind down and it makes it WAY faster.
Shops also work faster now then in the past. They're so fearful of insurance ass fuckers that they work many of their guys to the bone.
Quote from: hotrodalex on April 09, 2014, 12:26:59 PM
Pretty much anything can be done fast if you have the right tools. Or take short cuts. :devil:
Good, fast, cheap: pick two.
You can get good and fast together. However if it's cheap then you're probably fucked. If you're good at something you never do it for cheap.
Exactly. Any two are generally doable, but all three doesn't happen.
Compared to the smogged American boats in the late 70's, even our cheapest cars are comparatively fast and good. So, assuming you have a time machine, you *can* have all three. ;)
Well, you know what they say about assuming: you make an ass out of you and Ming.
I'm guessing they are just grinding down the rust, packing some old t shirts in the hole and throwing some duraglass over it. A quick rough sand with some 80 girt and and then 320 and spraying some paint on it.
It will be just fine, don't worry about it.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on April 10, 2014, 07:33:11 AM
I'm guessing they are just grinding down the rust, packing some old t shirts in the hole and throwing some duraglass over it. A quick rough sand with some 80 girt and and then 320 and spraying some paint on it.
It will be just fine, don't worry about it.
:lockedup: Fuck!
:lol:
Most people use news papers not shirts. And don't joke, I've seen it before.
I was reading up on rocker panel rust earlier today when I saw this:
(http://epsilongraphics.com/img/miata/rust3.jpg)
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=403330 (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=403330)
Pants were shat. I wonder if mine was the same. I should have asked for some photos of it.
I'm sure it was. Once you can see rust on the outside of a panel it has normally rotted away alot of the inner structure behind the visible rust.
If you want a rust free car I'll sell you my miata. :lol:
Got my car back. There are no t shirts or newpaper pieces dangling that I've found yet.
Ohhhh merrr gerrrrd I had no idea my car could feel so new in the steering. Not sure if it's the strut brace, new shocks, poly steering rack bushings, or alignment. Probably a combo of all of them. The steering feels silky smooth and has good return to center force.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5023_zps8287d694.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5024_zps50a925b2.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5028_zpsa100dac3.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5025_zps7aa10598.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5026_zpsa66b0930.jpg)
And I now have an off-roader...
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5029_zpsbcb8055c.jpg)
Next up...
Fix the corrosion on the polished part of the wheels (clearcoat chipped off)
Fix the seat tear (retrim or new seats?)
Frog arms under the front fenders
Seam welding
New top
The clutch is feather light now, and the engagement is more gradual. I love it.
I'll give it some time for a final opinion, but I probably should have stuck with stock parts on the brakes. The effort is higher and feels a bit better, but initial bite is quite a bit less. Maybe they just need some break in.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on April 10, 2014, 01:41:09 PM
I was reading up on rocker panel rust earlier today when I saw this:
(http://epsilongraphics.com/img/miata/rust3.jpg)
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=403330 (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=403330)
Pants were shat. I wonder if mine was the same. I should have asked for some photos of it.
i've never seen one that bad before down here. But then again I live in the south and the only time you see a car that bad down here is if it came from up north. I think sometimes rust from that area comes from the drain lines from the soft top being plugged up and then water leaks into that area. It happened to my car the first month I had it, rained all day and I got in the car and it felt strange and when I went to stop I could hear and feel water splashing around on my left side. Turns out some lipstick had fallen into the drain and plugged it up and water had no place to go but into the car.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on April 12, 2014, 02:49:31 AM
The clutch is feather light now, and the engagement is more gradual. I love it.
I'll give it some time for a final opinion, but I probably should have stuck with stock parts on the brakes. The effort is higher and feels a bit better, but initial bite is quite a bit less. Maybe they just need some break in.
It typically takes a few miles before new pads are bedded in. Once they are broken in, you'll feel a difference.
Quote from: Onslaught on April 12, 2014, 05:04:25 AM
i've never seen one that bad before down here. But then again I live in the south and the only time you see a car that bad down here is if it came from up north. I think sometimes rust from that area comes from the drain lines from the soft top being plugged up and then water leaks into that area. It happened to my car the first month I had it, rained all day and I got in the car and it felt strange and when I went to stop I could hear and feel water splashing around on my left side. Turns out some lipstick had fallen into the drain and plugged it up and water had no place to go but into the car.
That's exactly what causes that- plugged drain lines. A lot of people don't even know they're there.
Those are PIAA Super Silicone wipers. Good choice.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on April 13, 2014, 12:41:20 AM
That's exactly what causes that- plugged drain lines. A lot of people don't even know they're there.
Yep. I had a musical instrument cleaner (basically a glorified pipe cleaner on a long stick) that I would run through my drain lines on my NC miata every couple of months. Too many horror stories of people getting clugged drains, and not noticing until they started smelling mildew.
An air hose blowing up from the bottom works too. Not that I ever need to do that now seeing that I don't put shit back there to fall into the drain.
Slight thread jack but a few years ago my sideskirt on the RX8 got jammed up and removed a chunk of paint... Which now has caused a quarter sized spot of rust. If I clean it up, is there any good rust stopping primer an average person can buy?
Quote from: r0tor on April 16, 2014, 07:01:48 PM
Slight thread jack but a few years ago my sideskirt on the RX8 got jammed up and removed a chunk of paint... Which now has caused a quarter sized spot of rust. If I clean it up, is there any good rust stopping primer an average person can buy?
Probably your best bet would be some kind of zinc-rich primer, which would provide a sort of cathodic protection. Sherwin Williams makes a variety of them. I'm sure other paint-makers also have similar products. Then apply touch-up paint over that. Another option would be a cold-galvanizing compound (typically 90+% zinc). Rustoleum makes a spray-on cold-galvanizing product, you can also get brush-on. A company named ZRC makes a line of cold galvanizing products.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_5029_zpsbcb8055c.jpg)(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/DSC00259_zps5c663935.jpg)
I liked my ride height before. A bit of googling tells me the spring perches on the bilsteins may be a different height than the stock shocks. Anything I can do about it?
Sawzall the shocks half, cut out half an inch, weld back together.
Either go slightly shorter/stiffer springs, or lower the spring seat. You can usually just cut another snap ring groove in the tube, but I wouldn't recommend it with pressurized shock.
Do you have any measurements on the stock shocks? I can pull the prints for the bilsteins to compare.
Can you change the mount any? Like this Mustang.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/a9use7u4.jpg)
Quote from: MrH on June 07, 2014, 06:16:54 AM
Either go slightly shorter/stiffer springs, or lower the spring seat. You can usually just cut another snap ring groove in the tube, but I wouldn't recommend it with pressurized shock.
Do you have any measurements on the stock shocks? I can pull the prints for the bilsteins to compare.
I'll see what I can pull up. I'd like to keep the stock springs if I could.
I'll be taking the car in tomorrow for coolant flush, spark plugs, and to check the valve clearance. It's started to sound like an old air cooled VW.
I get a new top and the seat tear fix done on Monday. Otherwise, it's running like a top at about 120k miles. I'm loving the new shocks/steering rack bushing. Feels great cruising at 90mph.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on July 01, 2014, 05:08:46 AM
I'll see what I can pull up. I'd like to keep the stock springs if I could.
I'll be taking the car in tomorrow for coolant flush, spark plugs, and to check the valve clearance. It's started to sound like an old air cooled VW.
I get a new top and the seat tear fix done on Monday. Otherwise, it's running like a top at about 120k miles. I'm loving the new shocks/steering rack bushing. Feels great cruising at 90mph.
turns out the tick was just a loose spark plug. Quiet as a mouse now
Did the NB still have the hydraulic lifters?
Quote from: Rupert on July 09, 2014, 05:10:25 PM
Did the NB still have the hydraulic lifters?
Solid lifters
Really?
Maybe thats the noise I've been hearing.
The hydraulic lifters in the NAs clatter when the oil passages get a little clogged.
Re: The Shocks... this is what the tire rack dude sent me:
Hello Mr. Tucker,
REf./#N709827
Thank you for your good follow up.
There is no reasons for which your vehicle should have "grown" 1.5" after installing these Bilstein...
We can only think of two reasons:
- Wrong part were shipped to you.
- Installed front dampers on the rear and vice-versa?
Cordially,
Reggie
If you order online, please reference "Reggie" on the order as a previous contact. Thank you.
Reggie Bourlier | Sales Specialist
Front PN: 24-065580
Rear PN: 24-065597
Double checked the Bilstein part number on the shock vs the tirerack website and they match.
Next up are a new top, fix the console hinge, wheel refinishing (the polished lip clearcoat is chipping off), FM springs, and depowering the steering or getting a manual rack.
My friend brought the car into the shop to see if the spring perches were on upside down. Shop said they are on correctly
I've finally made contact with a couple of shops back in the UK to have the work done. Big things are coming haha. The highlights will be
Seam welding the sills and where the A-post meets the body
Frog arms
Flyin Miata springs and new bump stops
Control arm bushing replacements
New top
I've done even more reading about NB shocks and springs. It turns out that Bilstein HD shocks do raise the car some, so I'll go with the FM lowering springs to bring the ride height back to just a little less than where it was before the shocks. Apparently the FM springs also mate up well with the HD shocks.
I'm just going to wait for the power steering to crap out or start crapping out before I make the decision to de power or get a manual rack for it.
I heard Miatas have short suspension travel in general.... have u thought about coilovers? Those would eliminate that problem, and some of them are not complete crap.
I bought and have the bilsteins installed already anyway. If I keep it long enough I'll either go back to the stock springs and kyb shocks, maybe try out coilovers.
I'm most excited about the seam welding, frog arms, and bushings. I've heard they make a lot of difference.
I've ordered a stock steering wheel off of e-bay. I'm going to try my hand at re-wrapping the wheel with new leather from Redline Accessories. I aint got nothing but time here.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on July 16, 2015, 05:06:57 AM
I've ordered a stock steering wheel off of e-bay. I'm going to try my hand at re-wrapping the wheel with new leather from Redline Accessories. I aint got nothing but time here.
That would be cool! I've also seen "paracord" wrapping junk (550cord) on pinterest.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on July 16, 2015, 09:36:57 AM
That would be cool! I've also seen "paracord" wrapping junk (550cord) on pinterest.
I plan on doing black leather with silver stitching.
I've gotten it worked out I think. I sent an e-mail to my friends that are watching the car for me to have it brought the 3 hours to this place : http://www.themx5restorer.co.uk/ (http://www.themx5restorer.co.uk/)
If all goes as planned it'll be dropped off in early September, and I'll pick it up in November.
Big Things are Coming
You bought a shifter boot and bump stops?
Big things?
:lol:
:lol:
A new top and seam welding too
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on July 24, 2015, 10:24:45 AM
You bought a shifter boot and bump stops?
Big things?
:lol:
Improved bump stops, philistine.
$50 for jounce bumpers?! That's highway robbery.
Due to my awesome sewing and planning skills I've run out of thread, at least a useful length of it. I'll head to the bazaar Sunday and see if they have a matching thread there, I'm sure they do.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image.jpg2_zps1hudb6ce.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image.jpg3_zpsjtshalj9.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image.jpg4_zpsouwf3tal.jpg)
Sewing?
That's womens work.
I make a bad ass sandwich too.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image.jpg1_zpsjcyttmyr.jpg)
Nice skin
Are you actually sewing the leather or just lacing through the provided accent stitching?
Should have went with Alcantararara
Quote from: MX793 on August 14, 2015, 04:07:19 PM
Are you actually sewing the leather or just lacing through the provided accent stitching?
Looks like its just looping through the accent.
Quote from: MX793 on August 14, 2015, 04:07:19 PM
Are you actually sewing the leather or just lacing through the provided accent stitching?
Just sewing the accent stitching together
You can get a few kinds of stitch going, skip alternating stitches for more of a diamond effect of take out the accent stitching and use the holes for a baseball stitch
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image_zpssy0apn4p.jpeg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image_zpsobutgewi.jpeg)
Took you 3 weeks huh.
:lol:
Waited on thread, then re did the two lower stitches. It was hard to get 4 hour blocks of uninterrupted time
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image_zpsugv0luei.png)
Wait, you did the stitching yourself? Dang, that's pretty good!
Well, just tying the stitching on the seams together. It's super simple, but takes a lot of adjusting and fiddling.
I don't have the patience to be that consistent.
Quote from: Rupert on October 04, 2015, 11:36:00 AM
I don't have the patience to be that consistent.
How can you be a geologist for the government and not have patience?
I'm not trying to observe plate motions...
Quote from: Rupert on October 04, 2015, 12:17:59 PM
I'm not trying to observe plate motions...
Maybe you should be.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image_zpsc9dh3imc.jpeg)
Cool green thing. I hope Miata is very strong now.
is that for racing? rust? or just because?
Fender bracing. I can't wait for Garagestar to release ones for the NC.
Quote from: thecarnut on October 16, 2015, 10:24:12 AM
Fender bracing. I can't wait for Garagestar to release ones for the NC.
bracing is needed why?
Quote from: thecarnut on October 16, 2015, 10:24:12 AM
Fender bracing. I can't wait for Garagestar to release ones for the NC.
I can make some for you. Take your fender off and travel a template out. I'll have it done in a week.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 16, 2015, 11:46:53 AM
bracing is needed why?
NA/NB are pretty floppy by today's standards.
Quote from: Rupert on October 16, 2015, 11:54:58 AM
NA/NB are pretty floppy by today's standards.
so this helps lessen bodyroll?
I assume it stiffens the chassis, which allows the suspension and steering to do their jobs better, resulting in more precise handling and better road and steering feel. Or at least that's how these things are typically sold. You can only reduce body roll by installing bigger anti-sway bars or stiffer suspension.
Quote from: thecarnut on October 16, 2015, 10:24:12 AM
Fender bracing. I can't wait for Garagestar to release ones for the NC.
Take your shit off, and make a template out of posterboard. Take your posterboard mock-ups down to a decent welding shop and have them build it.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on October 17, 2015, 12:51:55 AM
Take your shit off, and make a template out of posterboard. Take your posterboard mock-ups down to a decent welding shop and have them build it.
But that is a lot of time for a questionable product though.
Questionable?
Even a passenger in a k-hole can feel cowl shake in a miata over a bumpy road.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on October 17, 2015, 06:11:01 PM
Questionable?
Even a passenger in a k-hole can feel cowl shake in a miata over a bumpy road.
No, making my own template and getting it welded up. I'd probably fuck up making the template.
Okay, so let's rephrase Soup's original suggestion...
Quote from: Soup DeVille on October 17, 2015, 12:51:55 AM
Take your shit off and drive down to a decent welding shop and have them build it.
Or I'll just wait for GS to do all the designing and shit and just buy them when they release it. :huh:
Yeah, I wouldn't trust a welding shop to design a brace for my car...
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 16, 2015, 11:46:54 AM
I can make some for you. Take your fender off and travel a template out. I'll have it done in a week.
Fuck you guys, I said I would do it.
Don't waste money on chassis bracing, it serves no objectively measurable benefit.
Quote from: Char on October 24, 2015, 01:11:01 PM
Don't waste money on chassis bracing, it serves no objectively measurable benefit.
Have you ever ridden in an NB on a nasty road?
Quote from: HotRodPilot on October 24, 2015, 09:29:25 PM
Have you ever ridden in an NB on a nasty road?
I had 2 Z3s - I know all about cowl shake and chassis flex.
Sans a full cage, these things are are pretty much snake oil. The idea from chassis bracing is to stop the car's chassis from being a part of the suspension - you want it to maintain proper suspension geometry by flexing less. This stuff probably doesn't do that to any measurable degree.
I'm not trying to maintain suspension geometry, just reduce cowl/windshield frame shake. I understand a door bar would be the best way but it's a DD/road tripper too.
Shit. Miata!
Quote from: Char on October 24, 2015, 01:11:01 PM
Don't waste money on chassis bracing, it serves no objectively measurable benefit.
-5000, Mr. Non-knowledge
Seam welding and frog arms oh my god yes
Fm springs not so much
New wheel and top are great
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/image_zpsyhvrk66i.jpeg)
Exactly what should we be looking for?
New steering wheel wrap and gauge trim rings. I'm happy it doesn't look riced and obvious
I'm having the bilsteins taken out and getting the stock springs put back in with new shocks. Ride was just too rough for me despite what Miata.net members say. I went with it because they said the stiffer springs keep the car off the bump stops. Also, to reduce the increased ride height of the bilstein spring perches. But it was just kidney punches at 80mph on severe highway undulations. I'm happy I did it so I know what it feels like. Live and learn.
The frog arms and seam welding are spot fucking on, though. I should have done them from day 1. The new bushings transmit more road noise but it's not bad and not noticeable with the top down.
Speaking of the top, it's really stiff. It takes pulling over to put the top up and down and about a 5 min struggle. I hope time and the warm weather in Spain loosens it up which it should.
I'm also getting all season tires on the stock wheels for dding. Also more slide fun at low speeds, better fuel mileage, and will last a long time. I'll just have to recalibrate stopping distances.
My Miata had an aftermarket vinyl top put on- fine in the warm weather but the cold weather was a struggle to get it closed...
The saga continues. Had the shop order some stock equivalent Sachs shocks, thinking it would bring the ride height back to normal. They showed me a picture with stock springs and the Sachs shocks:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/D256037C-8DFB-43CF-8526-D73DFEA0B06C_zpsoscumvqz.jpg)
Why the hell is my Miata riding so damn high?
Here's a picture of the FM springs and Sachs shocks:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/F24EFE2A-E61A-4EF5-A524-7BC66191C11E_zpsih2izkzd.jpg)
I'm going to go with the fm springs and Sachs shocks and see how the ride is.
For reference here is a picture from before the bilsteins were put in with the original springs and shocks:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/IMG_2381.jpg)
I can give you my personal opinion on Flyin miata coilovers, namely the shock dampening. I'd imagine if set to a appropriate ride height and set on a softer setting, they would be a fine daily driving choice. My miata, at it current height, rides as well as stock and may only bottom out on extremely aggressive driving on rough midwestern roads.
It might in the end(a coilover) be the only way for you to solve this ride height issue.
or you could just cut the springs.......
convert to axle over spring
if that is still too high, add blocks
Something is off. Assemble a Bilstein or Sachs shock with a stock spring and assemble a stock shock with a stock spring and compare them side to side. Is the module the same overall height? Is the preload on the spring the same between setups?
Did they torque the suspension bolts with the car in the air and the suspension at full droop instead of on the ground like they're supposed to?
Super high ride height is common with improperly tightened bolts that cause twisted bushings. I'd look under the car and see if your bushings look twisted at all.
Fuck. It's a reputed bmw shop that's working on it. I'm sure they know how to install it right.
I still have the stock shocks so I'll compare the bilsteins with them when I get the car back
I'll have to wait until I go back to the US in a few years to get this sorted I think. In the meantime I'll see what I can do with these bits and pieces I've collected. Maybe try and wrench on it myself in Spain.
Quote from: thecarnut on December 02, 2015, 10:12:54 AM
Did they torque the suspension bolts with the car in the air and the suspension at full droop instead of on the ground like they're supposed to?
Super high ride height is common with improperly tightened bolts that cause twisted bushings. I'd look under the car and see if your bushings look twisted at all.
I think this is it. I sent them an email With the following procedure and they said that's not standard practice for them. He said they'd try it but doesn't think it will make a difference. I think it will. I guess it common on Miatas? Other cars can have their boots tightened on the lift?
"On each corner, put a stand, take the wheel out and loose all the bushings bolts (included the lower shock eyelet one). Just loose them with the nut still threaded, dont extract them*. Put the wheel and go drive around the block for the suspension to move (to be sure the bushes unbound). Again, stand and wheel out, and then, lift the lower arm with a jack at the very outer extreme of the arm till the whole car starts to lift from the stand. Then torque the bushings to specs.
Do the alignment bolts bushings also. If you have aligned the car already, you'll have to realign as the ride height will be lower (anyway you can mark where the plates are pointing before you loose them and then torque with them pointing to the mark).
It's an hour work taking your time, but car will sit where it should, and ride much much nicer as you're preloading the bushings right. When the bushes twist unevenly you got a bad ride, not consistent behaviour on bumps and dimps, and a weird feel on handling.
*Be careful with the rear lower shock eyelet bolt, as the nut is captive on the inside of the arm and you won't see it, leave it threaded but loose."
The irony is that control arm or bushing replacement on bmws usually require setting the car down and loading driver, passenger and cargo weight in the car prior to final torqueing of the control arms and bushings. This was the way the e39 fsm said to do it, also my 300zx manual says the same.
If in doubt, its the safer way to do it.
Pretty lame if the shop did it wrong.
Yeah, that shop is incompetent. Find a new shop.
Too late to find a new shop. I have to leave on the 14th and won't be back. Scared shitless to have anyone near the Mediterranean touch the car. #lazyness.
NAS rota should have an auto hobby shop. Once I get settled I can venture down there and try to finagle it if it's still fucked.
Sucks balls too, as I spent a LOT of money to remedy the issue. New FM springs and the install cost to try and correct the issue. Then the install cost for Sachs shocks and putting the stock ones back in.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on December 08, 2015, 01:15:59 PM
Too late to find a new shop. I have to leave on the 14th and won't be back. Scared shitless to have anyone near the Mediterranean touch the car. #lazyness.
NAS rota should have an auto hobby shop. Once I get settled I can venture down there and try to finagle it if it's still fucked.
Sucks balls too, as I spent a LOT of money to remedy the issue. New FM springs and the install cost to try and correct the issue. Then the install cost for Sachs shocks and putting the stock ones back in.
Fuck man, that blows. Your shop is run by idiots. I've changed the suspension on numerous Miatas (all gens except the new ND) and it's so simple that it's mind boggling that a reputable shop could mess that up.
If you have a jack and stands and some simple tools it's easy enough to do yourself. You don't even need to loosen the bolts and drive the car around (though some people say it's better to do so). Just do the part where you jack the hub up till it comes off the jack stand and retighten.
Good news!!! We are back to stock ride height on stock springs with new shocks!!
I'm thrilled beyond words. The stock wheels are on with some Michelin energy saver all seasons. Going for max mpg on the way to Spain.
Quote from: HotRodPilot on December 10, 2015, 08:11:16 AM
Good news!!! We are back to stock ride height on stock springs with new shocks!!
I'm thrilled beyond words. The stock wheels are on with some Michelin energy saver all seasons. Going for max mpg on the way to Spain.
who fixed it? Sounds like a sweet drive!
The same shop that had fucked it up last year and again a week ago. I never went to pick it back up, asked if they'd put the stock springs back in and at least try tightening the suspension under load. They did and it worked. I'm out a boatload in parts and labor but whatever. My car is back to "normal" again. I don't think I have enough of a case within the law for a lawsuit to get back all the cost in parts and labor.
bummer!!!
They should have given you back all the money they charged for the subsequent suspension fuckery.
Glad it's sorted out though.
Did you swap to stiffer springs with the Bilsteins? Gonna go back to those?
April 2014 - bought bilstein shocks to replace the stock shocks. Warne motors installed it
The car was riding high, decided to give it a bit to settle
July 2014 - I essentially leave for deployment until November 2015 and give the car to friends to use/store
June 2015 - the car still hasn't gotten appreciably lower. Friends take the car back to Warne motors to ensure the bilstein spring perches were not upside down. Said they were installed correctly.
July 2015 - welp fuck this 4x4 look, I bought FM springs to lower the car, and as I've read on many topics on Miata.net, will keep the ride almost like stock and off the bump stops. Some even said the ride is better than stock.
September 2015- friends drop the car off with MX-5 Restorer in southern England (great shop btw, just quite a distance away). I have a bunch of stuff done, inluding installation of FM springs
November 16th - I get back and pick up my car up from MX5 Restorer and it's not a 4x4 anymore!! I drive it back home and my kidneys took a beating.
November 23rd - I drop the car off at Warne motors again since they are closer, to have the stock springs and put back in and sachs shocks ( afew other things, too). They sent me a picture a few days later of the FM springs and Sachs shocks. When it was wayyyyyy higher than it had ridden just days before with the FM springs and bilsteins I figured something had to be up.
So I asked them to put the stock springs and Sachs shocks back in.
Luckily they did it according to instructions on an Internet forum and it worked.
Called it.
Fuck that first shop.
Also I'm surprised you thought the FM springs were too stiff.
Me too. But at 80mph on the highway an ndulation felt like a gut punch. I haven't spent much time in modded cars, but have driven many sporty cars without problem
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-12/EEA551AE-331F-45BB-BF0F-4DB866CFCEC0_zpszcrdyzbx.jpg)
Looks good. Shit.
Nice, finally! You can always leave them bad (honest) reviews. :P
I have a clunk coming from what I think is the right front. I've done some research and it seems the common areas for a clunk over small and large bumps are from the camber bolts or the nut for the top hat.
Is the nut for the top hat what is in the pictures below? Why does one side have 2 nuts and the other only 1?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/30C59075-FE22-4820-9AFF-E681A29857EB_zpskjhciaio.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/5B4E8218-8193-4196-90B7-627D4E9F2939_zps13dtfulx.jpg)
Top picture is a nylock nut so it doesn't need a second nut to keep it tight.
I'd assume that's what they mean by "top hat", but I'm not a MiataGuy. Wiggle the car with the hood open and see if you can notice any movement (maybe get a friend to wiggle while you hold the strut and feel if it's moving)
The top hat nuts are those rusty nuts holding the shock tower bar on. The center nut you're talking about actually threads onto the shock shaft and keeps the top hat and spring on. That shouldn't come loose since the spring is putting tension on it. Not sure why one has two and the other has one.
I'd check your top hat nuts (the rusty ones) as those can come loose and cause clunks.
I took it to a local shop to have the bilstein's put back on. The Sachs that were on were absolute shit, and maybe not even the correct shocks based on how shitty they were.
anyway, the local Spanish shop didn't tighten the suspension down under load, so I'm back to 4x4 until I get back to the US.
The CEL is on with a P0402 EGR "A" Flow Excessive Detected. Asked the shop to see if they could clean the EGR/replace it. Dude reset the CEL and said short trips were causing it and that it should be fine. :facepalm:
So, I'm gonna take it into my own hands and see what I can do because fuck trying to explain how to fix cars to car fixers.
Buying a ratchet with a few sockets, an EGR valve+gasket, throttle body cleaner, a wire brush and doing this myself on a weekend. Very well could fuck up my car but without intervention I fear it'll consume too much of it's own exhaust.
I'll need to remove the top part of the intake manifold and clean out the passageway that pipes in the exhaust air into the intake from the valve. I'll clean off the throttle body and hopefully pick up a few MPG, maybe some more power.
Edit--the CEL comes back on with regular frequency--I've reset it 3-4 times since October, and now just leave it on because fuck.
Can you rent shop space somewhere? You can remove the bind in the bushings yourself.
No, not really. Maybe down in Rota. but I have 0 idea what I need to do to fix that. I'll do some research over the next few days
Raise vehicle, loosen things, lower, tighten things. Tada.
Quote from: MrH on December 27, 2016, 12:42:49 PM
Raise vehicle, loosen things, lower, tighten things. Tada.
:lol:
which bolts, how big, which order, can I get to them when the car is on the ground, what if I break a bolt, alignment....
Take it over some sweet jumps. The suspension will settle.
I jumped the car back in England. Can confirm jumping is not something I want to do.
Anyway. I took the center console out. I opened up the lock cylinder for the storage lock and fixed that. Surprised myself. Screwed the hinge in that was glued on to the console cover by the old mechanic. Fixed the clips that had broken on the window switch unit.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/D4243D99-C4D4-407C-9032-26516147C94B_zpsffxih4ue.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/D4243D99-C4D4-407C-9032-26516147C94B_zpsffxih4ue.jpg.html)
I've also worked some more on the 949 wheels. Only one more to go and should have it done tonight. I'm not sure if I should put clearcoat on after I'm done polishing them.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/A0F7F468-4E0E-4C86-B934-A5BAE26C54C8_zpsjawebmsm.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/A0F7F468-4E0E-4C86-B934-A5BAE26C54C8_zpsjawebmsm.jpg.html)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/64D5D2A5-5060-4278-B9AF-8D16809AB264_zpse7oktkl4.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/64D5D2A5-5060-4278-B9AF-8D16809AB264_zpse7oktkl4.jpg.html)
That is a nice looking wheel. What is the weight?
10-11lbs
My imitation Spoon wheels are 12.8 lbs :cry:
I think you're realizing what I realized. As shitty as I am doing my own work on my car, I'll still do a better job than like 90% of the shops out there because I care about the end product. :lol: it just might take me forever.
Those 949 wheels look great. Yeah, I'd probably clear coat them afterwards.
But what made them look so shitty in the first place was the crapping out of the clear coat. And sanding through this clear coat to restore them is a BITCH. At least if the aluminum corrodes all I need to do is polish it up.
Re: self mechanic... ideally I'd like Singer level work but shops like that are super scarce and I'd probably not be able to afford the hourly rate for that
After some research I found that the shift boot installer didn't transfer the trim ring where the boot meets the shifter. I'd been wondering why it looked sloppy but chalked it up to the boot being from redline goods and not OEM.
Much better now
If you don't mind having to re-polish your wheels fairly frequently, you can probably leave the clear off. My brother always used to clean the clear off of the aluminum swingarms on his MX bikes and polish them because he liked the polished look. Had to re-polish it on a nearly weekly basis to keep it looking good, but no other harm. Although a swingarm wouldn't have to deal with brake dust, which can be corrosive. A good coat of wax after the polish would probably help both protect from brake dust and extend polishing intervals.
:thinking:
I don't want to have to polish the rim once a week or risk it getting eaten alive by brake dust.
I also don't want to have to sand through clearcoat every 3 years
:hmm:
Quote from: Rich on January 01, 2017, 04:00:13 PM
:thinking:
I don't want to have to polish the rim once a week or risk it getting eaten alive by brake dust.
I also don't want to have to sand through clearcoat every 3 years
:hmm:
Get them powder coated in gloss silvery, or whatever color. Neon pink.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on January 01, 2017, 04:08:29 PM
Get them powder coated in gloss silvery, or whatever color. Neon pink.
+1
Unless you're driving in some harsh environments (like salt), a properly applied clearcoat should still look good for many years if properly cared for.
Did a coolant system pressure test and it's pouring from the front of the engine block. Guessing it's the water pump
Also checked for rust to see if I should sell the thing when I got back to the US. The frame looks great, but there are some rusty bits:
Something around the fuel tank area... looks like a panel. I'm guessing the box with the tubes is the fuel pump. Cylinder thing off camera I think was the fuel filter.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/D5094AA5-F042-42DC-B61F-45EA735EFEA7_zpsod72binf.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/D5094AA5-F042-42DC-B61F-45EA735EFEA7_zpsod72binf.jpg.html)
I have no idea TF this thing is:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/7FA5B4DC-9CCE-43ED-9129-53AA55A193D4_zpsqzjynmjd.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/7FA5B4DC-9CCE-43ED-9129-53AA55A193D4_zpsqzjynmjd.jpg.html)
Control arm:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/583FD8F4-34A6-40CB-AB35-4B643E5EC187_zpsy5pmfpj7.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/583FD8F4-34A6-40CB-AB35-4B643E5EC187_zpsy5pmfpj7.jpg.html)
Frame for reference:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/05B5377A-7373-42B0-B5ED-A474A90E6888_zpsj1ue1xdl.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/05B5377A-7373-42B0-B5ED-A474A90E6888_zpsj1ue1xdl.jpg.html)
Water pump is an easy fix. Is it timing belt driven? If so, replace everything.
I am not a Miata expert, but I imagine the box with hoses is the evaporative emissions system pump. Fuel pump should be in tank, I imagine.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/83879BF7-BF8E-419A-9199-794FFB3D2BB9_zpsggptfwbv.png) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/83879BF7-BF8E-419A-9199-794FFB3D2BB9_zpsggptfwbv.png.html)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/8C07705D-31F8-4EB5-A2DE-866308E8573E_zpsby1kj7rs.png) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/8C07705D-31F8-4EB5-A2DE-866308E8573E_zpsby1kj7rs.png.html)
"A greeting." :lol:
That's brutal. What are you going to do?
Get it fixed and keep the thing.
The frame is pretty rust free actually. It was coated with some kind of black sealer. I have some more sockets and stuff on the way and will start doing some of my own maintenance.
I do want a 4dr I don't have to worry about as a second car. I might wait until I get settled in SC for that though. It would buy me time to work on the Miata when I need to
Quote from: Rich on January 20, 2017, 09:22:46 AM
Get it fixed and keep the thing.
The frame is pretty rust free actually. It was coated with some kind of black sealer. I have some more sockets and stuff on the way and will start doing some of my own maintenance.
I do want a 4dr I don't have to worry about as a second car. I might wait until I get settled in SC for that though. It would buy me time to work on the Miata when I need to
Dooooooooo it. Plus having the luxury of picking which car to drive to work is pure bliss. :wub:
Got the car back. I keep smelling coolant when I back it into my house parking spot. It's a sweet smell. There's not loss of coolant from the reservoir, though. Maybe it's the coolant that splashed out from the leak? I've been smelling it for 2 weeks now...
I refurbished my eyeball vents
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/E2B98BA1-B109-4E8E-976D-603B9D6FD67F_zpskvpfohhh.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/254C6460-ED72-41DD-92E6-F3D1B1438214_zpsxki0bstu.jpg)
Lined the ashtray (coin holder) with felt, since I had it for the vents anyway. I'll put some on the back of the seats when the rain stops.. the seats make leather on plastic rubbing sound when it's cold.
Installed new top lock caps, which quieted down the wind noise on the highway 200% (science)
(https://www.flyinmiata.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/img_2857.jpg)
And today finally finished all the sanding on these babies. All that's left is to polish. What a job this was. Holeeeeey fuck. I'm not sure if the wheel cleaners I used tore up the clearcoat on them, but I recommend to anyone to not use that shit on wheels.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/C0F47CEF-C5CD-4913-B45C-6199296662F0_zpszpcusbgh.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/C0F47CEF-C5CD-4913-B45C-6199296662F0_zpszpcusbgh.jpg.html)
Before:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/A0F7F468-4E0E-4C86-B934-A5BAE26C54C8_zpsjawebmsm.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/A0F7F468-4E0E-4C86-B934-A5BAE26C54C8_zpsjawebmsm.jpg.html)
I've decided I'm not going to put clearcoat on them. I've just gotten some strong wheel wax/sealer and will try and keep up on them without any harsh sprays. If they turn south, I may powder coat them or junk them (some painted parts of the wheel are starting to corrode a little).
I don't know if you have it where you're at, but colinites insulator wax(power companies used to use it to insulate for flashovers) is a pretty heavy duty car/fleet wax. I use that stuff on high duty/exposure areas(door jambs, rockers, wheels).
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 13, 2017, 07:57:59 AM
I don't know if you have it where you're at, but colinites insulator wax(power companies used to use it to insulate for flashovers) is a pretty heavy duty car/fleet wax. I use that stuff on high duty/exposure areas(door jambs, rockers, wheels).
Yeah, I'm not going to find it in Spain :lol: Maybe when I get moved into South Carolina. For now, I have some chemical guys MAXcoat Wheel Guard wax
Not the best but way better than before... The good news is that when I get time again, it won't be hard to touch them up and get them closer to new
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/295818B7-D04C-4F7C-8AB6-44A5437C6E33_zpsoavrzhcb.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/295818B7-D04C-4F7C-8AB6-44A5437C6E33_zpsoavrzhcb.jpg.html)
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 13, 2017, 07:57:59 AM
I don't know if you have it where you're at, but colinites insulator wax(power companies used to use it to insulate for flashovers) is a pretty heavy duty car/fleet wax. I use that stuff on high duty/exposure areas(door jambs, rockers, wheels).
I had no idea that could be used on cars.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 13, 2017, 01:24:58 PM
I had no idea that could be used on cars.
Works great on cars, huge following in some detail/shop circles.
I'm gonna have to order a bottle! Always good to be able to offer truly tough coatings around here.
It's the 845 insulator wax.
Some of the over the road guys claim that they only have to wax their truck twice a year with it. Thick stuff, when the bottle sits, it looks like candle wax until you shake it and it turns to liquid again.
Interesting. Thanks for the tip.
I went to go take the strut tower brace off so I could fix the intake manifold, and those shock tower nuts are not budging.
Quote from: Rich on February 21, 2017, 05:49:34 AM
I went to go take the strut tower brace off so I could fix the intake manifold, and those shock tower nuts are not budging.
Have you tried the candle wax trick?
Quote from: MX793 on February 21, 2017, 05:51:01 AM
Have you tried the candle wax trick?
I haven't (googling it now), just the WD-40 trick. No PB blaster here (not that they are really rusted out...)
I think you should try the 845 insulator wax trick.
Quote from: Rich on February 21, 2017, 05:58:40 AM
I haven't (googling it now), just the WD-40 trick. No PB blaster here (not that they are really rusted out...)
Check the garage chat thread, I posted a video.
I've taken the bolts for the intake manifold out, am I going to totally hose myself if I don't put anti-seize lube on them before I put them back in? (I don't have any and I don't think I can find it easily)
If not anti-seize, can you find any other type of automotive grease? Axle grease, red grease, bearing grease? Also, loctite can prevent bolts from seizing, if you can find that.
Quote from: Rich on February 24, 2017, 06:16:08 AM
I've taken the bolts for the intake manifold out, am I going to totally hose myself if I don't put anti-seize lube on them before I put them back in? (I don't have any and I don't think I can find it easily)
Clean the threads on each bolt with a wire brush. Run them in and out of the holes a few times to clean the holes out. Blow holes out with air. Clean, dry threads are good.
Quote from: MX793 on February 24, 2017, 06:23:43 AM
If not anti-seize, can you find any other type of automotive grease? Axle grease, red grease, bearing grease? Also, loctite can prevent bolts from seizing, if you can find that.
BLUE loctite will work. Don't use the red :lol:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on February 24, 2017, 06:28:22 AM
BLUE loctite will work. Don't use the red :lol:
Yeah, don't use the "remove with heat" grade stuff, obviously. Loctite 222 (purple) or 242 (blue).
Thanks for the quick reply guys... an ass pucking moment for me
Will either of these two work?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/3A50B933-51C3-4D68-89E8-A7AEB0A031CE_zpskw4s5vth.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/3A50B933-51C3-4D68-89E8-A7AEB0A031CE_zpskw4s5vth.jpg.html)
White grease would probably work OK.
Another option, if you're worried about galling threads, is to put a dab of motor oil on the threads. May not hold up as well as loctite or anti-seize over time when you go to take the bolts out again years from now, but better than dry threads.
Go easy on the torque if the threads are lubed.
And so it began.
In October my car started throwing a P402 code, excessive EGR flow. Finally, yesterday I had the tools/parts/time to fix it. Googling Miata forums, this code stems from the EGR passageway in the upper intake manifold clogging up, backing up deposits into the EGR valve. I wanted to do this on my own since I'm sure a shop would have just replaced the super easy to replace EGR valve and not cleaned the manifold, just delaying the code again for some months. I cleaned the throttle body a bit, and the lower intake manifold very lightly/carefully, too
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/1A7A9718-088E-48D0-A843-49F196C020F4_zpsbhpx4onl.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/1A7A9718-088E-48D0-A843-49F196C020F4_zpsbhpx4onl.jpg.html)
Some have cleaned out the old EGR valve, but I didn't want to take a chance and have the code still popping up, so I bought a new one. I'll probably try and clean the old one out and keep it around just in case.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/F510A59B-5556-44AD-AE7C-A0672E690D56_zpssms2w4yl.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/iamrich17/media/F510A59B-5556-44AD-AE7C-A0672E690D56_zpssms2w4yl.jpg.html)
http://vid92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/ED943543-1059-4524-BEB9-8B7BACCF8C18_zpserz6zzo2.mp4
http://vid92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/BE71E3AB-CD3E-4F96-96F2-922A000E246E_zpsjuxcslvo.mp4
Just full of nastiness in there
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/th_355D8ECF-AD9F-4939-BB90-CED92F5B63C0_zpswl4qoedq.mp4) (http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/355D8ECF-AD9F-4939-BB90-CED92F5B63C0_zpswl4qoedq.mp4)
I put it back together and she runs! No code either!
New plugs and plug wires swapped in. She started stumbling on Thursday. It amazes me that there was no consistency in the stumbling. Temperature, time of day, RPM, speed, throttle, engine run time...
.... and it runs!
EGRs are dirty bastards by nature; almost always they just get too dirty and don't actually "fail" fail.
I took the door panel off the Miata. Looks like an aftermarket remote lock/unlock actuator has been installed. I never received a remote unlock fob for it.
Options?
Is there a brand or part number on the actuator? May be able to track down a replacement remote.
Says Baron
Manufactured feb of 99. No other info. Tried to google it and came up with nothing
I need some electrical help
How do I remove this remote lock receiver and do it correctly?
I've unplugged and taken the receiver out. I've removed the wire that went to the door lock actuator. I'm not sure what to do with this multicolor wiring connector. Do I leave it as is? Do I need to cut it off and wrap the wires in electrical tape? Or do I need to complete some kind of electrical circuit so the car will function correctly. (I've disconnected the battery to avoid issues)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/3F71793B-4036-402F-9A75-D095A364F830_zpsrnycpoxq.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/CA064E72-DEAC-4218-B009-C4D3D384763C_zpsfkx8ev26.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/6537C068-ABED-4078-BF9B-E216B77E2B32_zpshyvpoumx.jpg)
I would try just plugging battery in and seeing if the car still works. Won't hurt it but maybe the alarm(?) will go off?
Why did you remove the receiver? Didn't work?
I would SUPER avoid cutting OEM wiring. If anything you might need a jumper from one to another (or maybe a couple)
I left the reciever out and the harness not plugged into anything and it worked. So I'll wrap it with electrical tape and affix it to something.
Also, upgrayyyyeds:
New battery that's the correct size, and made just for the Miata from Orielly's. The old one was a bigass spanish battery that I got when the car died in Spain
(http://i.imgur.com/EaurBNg.jpg)
Also, new speakers:
(http://i.imgur.com/BOpkbcd.jpg)
Those speakers should be a yuuggggee upgrade. :rockon:
Speakers sound great! I've ordered a new battery tray as the stock one had been crushed by years of shops stuffing oversized batteries on top of it. Also some stock looking side market lights to replace the aftermarket ones installed to make it Europe legal.
I've got to check to see if some oil has gotten onto the alternator and try and clean it out. If it's not oil then I'll be replacing an alternator over thanksgiving weekend.
I was thinking as I drove the Miata to work yesterday how much I wish I could just keep driving instead of going to work. I never get that thought in the 86, even when I'm going to work.
Quote from: Rich on November 16, 2018, 11:06:21 AM
I've got to check to see if some oil has gotten onto the alternator and try and clean it out. If it's not oil then I'll be replacing an alternator over thanksgiving weekend.
I was thinking as I drove the Miata to work yesterday how much I wish I could just keep driving instead of going to work. I never get that thought in the 86, even when I'm going to work.
So the answer is Miata.
Quote from: Rich on November 16, 2018, 11:06:21 AM
I was thinking as I drove the Miata to work yesterday how much I wish I could just keep driving instead of going to work. I never get that thought in the 86, even when I'm going to work.
HAHAHAHAHA And now I wake up anxious to go to work just to drive Miata. But then I get to work and just can't wait to get out of work to drive Miata.
---------- ------------------
Just ordered plates: SKR4PPY. :thumbsup: All the better variations were taken.
And for realz I'm super happy with the car- but spent some "quality time" with it today.
I was off work so went to get the safety/emissions done. I was a bit scared as the check engine came on last night for the EGR thing, but I cleared it and they were cool with that today. But the center brake light was out.
They wanted $13 to fix it, I ran down 2 blocks and popped a new bulb in. But it didn't light. Go home and dig out multimeter, 9v battery is dead, no replacements; go to Wal-mart. Come home and check the wiring, getting some voltage at the connecter but not enough for bulb light.
Was there previous work on it before? There was an odd aftermarket wire going from trunk to splice then behind padding in the front of the trunk from right to the left (driver) side then into some weird connector. I checked everything I could, still no dice. So I ended up splicing a new wire from right-side brake light to the center and now it works.
------- -------------- ------------
Funny enough when I bought my NA in 2012 the center brake light didn't work either. I had to splice a wire because the one was broken right at the trunk bend. That car had been rear-ended at least twice, so I guess they didn't mount the wiring right so it got pinched over time.
Speaking of rotors, (different thread)-
Got 4 new tires on Scrappy when I came back from Kuwait. Plus is they aren't crazy bad in rain any more. Minus is they are not half as grippy on dry pavement as the old ones. Got done fairly cheap 75k mile warranty all seasons.
They said I needed front brakes. Today was telework day so I skipped a little and pulled the front wheels off.
Pads were TOTALLY worn down. :mask: I haven't done brakes on this car since I bought it, so 5 years ain't bad!!! Luckily the slotted rotors were fine!
This is over of the first car jobs that actually went smoothly for me- got the nuts loose, lifted and put on jack stands, went to parts store. Figured I would change the oil too.
Old pads came off easy, realized I didn't have anything to push the caliper 'closed', had to go get a $6 c clamp from Lowe's. New pads went on and everything was fine there.
I HATE where the oil filter is, but got that done without too much mess. I had a slight panic moment, I started up and backed up and there is a slight hill in the driveway, pedal on the floor and I'm pumping like crazy to not roll into a tree :lol:
All good though!
I think it's time for front wheel bearings? I hear some weird rubbing "wub wub wub" sounds as I pull into the garage with the wheel turned to the right a lot..
Scrappy got a new valve cover, motor mounts and welding on a loose heat shield this week. $600.
It was rattling so bad it was kind of embarrassing. So nice to go out multiple times top down today!