(https://i.imgur.com/dTzMlGp.jpg)
Nice. Just got it?
Me likey......
Bought it in ebay 2 weeks ago, picked it up today. I can only assume that the El Camino committed suicide because it realized I was getting a new toy. :lol:
It's a 1977 Suzuki GS550, only 8k miles and looks practically brand new. I don't have many customization plans, although as time goes on it may get more and more cafe racer looking. Slimmer gauges would look nice, but I like all the info on the current ones. A new front fork with inverted shocks and dual discs is definitely a possibility down the road, as well as 4-1 exhaust pipe.
Man that thing looks brand fucking new. Good find
The clutch is crazy heavy. I'll have to add finger curls to the gym routine. :lol:
As old as that thing is, clutch cable (?) might just need some lube, or a full on replacement. My clutch lever was heavy AF... I changed the cable and now it feels like a toy.
That's a good possibility. I'll check it out later
You can always get a cable luber if the cable itself is in good condition still.
(http://i.imgur.com/GNL3mGH.jpg)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7p-fJ3Om3s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7p-fJ3Om3s)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFUVvv3Q1Uk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFUVvv3Q1Uk)
Rode it around the block a few times. :wub:
The shifter is perfect, way better than the KTM 390 Duke that I sat on. It's got plenty of power and rides smoothly. Brakes are a little weak, but with a single front disc and rear drum that's to be expected.
Weak brakes are a trademark of that vintage of bike. My brother has a pair of bikes of that era. Even his CB750, which has twin front rotors, takes a lot more effort on the lever to get the kind of braking one finger will get you on a modern bike. I've concluded weak brakes were a form of early ABS.
Yeah, even my '99 Nighthawk had crappy brakes. I remember being so amazed by the brakes on my F4i. :lol:
Those gauges remind me of the Honda MB5 I learned how to ride one! I wish I had one of those again for shits and giggles!
WTF that shit is clean as fuck bro
Hell yeah.
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on April 26, 2016, 02:48:28 PM
Those gauges remind me of the Honda MB5 I learned how to ride one! I wish I had one of those again for shits and giggles!
I'll race you if you ride one of those instead of your gixxer. :lol:
I'll have to find a way to test the A/F ratio. With the El Camino I tuned the carb to work at both ~700 feet and ~4500 feet above sea level. It runs a little lean in Cincinnati and a little rich in Utah. But that's a big single carb vs. tiny quad carbs, so I'm not sure if it's gonna be more sensitive and require tuning.
Carbs? Easy. You just mess with screws til it runs right, right?
Synchronizing and balancing carbs is a PITA.
Quote from: MX793 on April 26, 2016, 06:39:37 PM
Synchronizing and balancing carbs is a PITA.
I can imagine. One carb is enough to keep me occupied, not to mention four separate carbs on the same motor. Fuck thaaaaaat. :mask:
Seems to be running fine, though? So far.
Luckily they were recently rebuilt and synched. I'll check the plug color tomorrow and then ride it around for a few days and check them again to make sure they aren't too lean.
Quote from: giant_mtb on April 26, 2016, 06:31:33 PM
Carbs? Easy. You just mess with screws til it runs right, right?
Altitude adjustments require changing the jets (or metering rods, as is the case on my car). Then you break out the quad vacuum gauge and mess with screws to tune/synch them.
But with a ~3,000 feet difference, you're usually able to split the difference and it'll run nicely (/nice enough) in both places. It seems to be the consensus that a motor tuned for sea level won't see much issue until 5-6,000 feet. It'll be a bit down on power at 4,000 feet, but that's pretty much unavoidable unless you turbocharge it.
Carbs sound miserable :lol:
Quote from: MrH on April 26, 2016, 07:51:21 PM
Carbs sound miserable :lol:
I've been trying to cut carbs lately, but it's difficult during finals period.
Quote from: MrH on April 26, 2016, 07:51:21 PM
Carbs sound miserable :lol:
I both like and dislike them. Being able to tune the engine without relying on a computer is awesome, but there's a learning curve and obviously you have to tinker with them instead of being a one-time tune. I actually think it's easier than most people portray it as. I'm not sure if those people just haven't read up on tuning tips or have feet for hands, but carbs are relatively simple mechanisms. There are lots of little screws and parts, but if you made a diagram for the process it'd be simple.
I would have bought a fuel injected bike out of laziness, but there aren't many in my price range that I like. My next bike will probably have FI (either a naked SV650 or a Bonneville/Scrambler)
Quote from: Raza on April 26, 2016, 07:52:07 PM
I've been trying to cut carbs lately, but it's difficult during finals period.
I tried a low carb/sugar diet for a few days but didn't have time to prep low carb meals every day during the semester.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 26, 2016, 08:12:21 PM
I tried a low carb/sugar diet for a few days but didn't have time to prep low carb meals every day during the semester.
Low carb is difficult unless you pretty much prepare every meal yourself.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 26, 2016, 05:10:06 PM
I'll race you if you ride one of those instead of your gixxer. :lol:
:ducks:
Quote from: Raza on April 26, 2016, 09:28:25 PM
Low carb is difficult unless you pretty much prepare every meal yourself.
Pretty much!
Here's a pretty good video. I think the biggest PITA is just accessing the carbs. Most bikes you'll have to remove the tank and seat.
http://youtu.be/KHGPqP6G9cA (http://youtu.be/KHGPqP6G9cA)
Quote from: MrH on April 26, 2016, 07:51:21 PM
Carbs sound miserable :lol:
+1
Thus I bought a FI bike :lol:
Quote from: Raza on April 26, 2016, 09:28:25 PM
Low carb is difficult unless you pretty much prepare every meal yourself.
This is kind of true, but how low are we talking? I think any fast food place will put your burger on a bitch ass slice of lettuce. You can also get chicken salads and KFC has their grilled chicken. I'm dieting now and I'm doing about 150g of carbs per day. Pretty rough but I don't eat breakfast, so I can still do a burger or something and still hit my targets.
But yea there is no reason to get carbs in 2016, unless you are just going for a bike from a certain period.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on April 27, 2016, 01:09:07 PM
This is kind of true, but how low are we talking? I think any fast food place will put your burger on a bitch ass slice of lettuce. You can also get chicken salads and KFC has their grilled chicken. I'm dieting now and I'm doing about 150g of carbs per day. Pretty rough but I don't eat breakfast, so I can still do a burger or something and still hit my targets.
But yea there is no reason to get carbs in 2016, unless you are just going for a bike from a certain period.
I'm not actually trying to actively lower my carbs, it was mostly for the joke. But I am trying to up my protein intake.
Signed up for an MSF course today. Gonna have to wait until May 20th since I'll be out of town the weekend prior.
Jacket, back-protector, and gloves should be coming in the mail in the next few days.
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 27, 2016, 06:12:58 AM
+1
Thus I bought a FI bike :lol:
My Ninja was carbed - my biggest issue was that it was gutless when I'd ride into the mountains on day trips. It was tuned for SLC but it was a dog in the 7-8000 feet zone.
Pulled a spark plug and it was pretty black (running rich) so lower altitude should have it running perfectly.
I must have a huge advantage over other noobie riders, due to my general mechanical knowledge and car racing experience. Riding a bike is hella easy. :huh:
Yeah, it's not tough. I think my cycling experience helped me a lot but I know that's not necessarily the case for others.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 28, 2016, 01:51:44 PM
I must have a huge advantage over other noobie riders, due to my general mechanical knowledge and car racing experience. Riding a bike is hella easy. :huh:
:lol:
I had never ridden a bike before my MSF weekend (which I'm pretty sure was cut way short because it was fucking freezing, I think the whole weekend was less than 12 hrs long including the very beginning when you walk the bike), then I picked up my bike and rode it home the next week or something like that. Then I commuted on it the very next morning.
I'm not sure what people are talking about when they say motorcyclin' is hard at the beginning. I still need to practice my slow speed maneuvering but for just riding around town, I don't see why anybody would struggle with it.
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 28, 2016, 04:26:07 PM
:lol:
I had never ridden a bike before my MSF weekend (which I'm pretty sure was cut way short because it was fucking freezing, I think the whole weekend was less than 12 hrs long including the very beginning when you walk the bike), then I picked up my bike and rode it home the next week or something like that. Then I commuted on it the very next morning.
I'm not sure what people are talking about when they say motorcyclin' is hard at the beginning. I still need to practice my slow speed maneuvering but for just riding around town, I don't see why anybody would struggle with it.
Bear in mind that there are a great many people that don't know how to drive a manual transmission or who have very limited MT experience. If you're trying to learn how to manage a clutch, throttle, and shifter for the first time while adapting to 2 wheels, it can be a bit overwhelming.
Quote from: MX793 on April 28, 2016, 04:50:55 PM
Bear in mind that there are a great many people that don't know how to drive a manual transmission or who have very limited MT experience. If you're trying to learn how to manage a clutch, throttle, and shifter for the first time while adapting to 2 wheels, it can be a bit overwhelming.
Yeah I think that's the main hurdle. I already know how to drive a manual and have gone through the learning process in a car, which is arguably more difficult since you have to coordinate your feet instead of your hands.
I rode almost 10 miles around the neighborhood today. Tomorrow I'm gonna brave a real road so I can register it. Gonna try to time it so I don't have to see a whole lot of cars on the way (it's just 2-3 miles of two lane road to get to the DMV)
Quote from: MX793 on April 28, 2016, 04:50:55 PM
Bear in mind that there are a great many people that don't know how to drive a manual transmission or who have very limited MT experience. If you're trying to learn how to manage a clutch, throttle, and shifter for the first time while adapting to 2 wheels, it can be a bit overwhelming.
I guess if you haven't driven stick and/or you've never driven a decently quick car before, even getting on a 300 could be a handful initially
Quote from: MX793 on April 28, 2016, 04:50:55 PM
Bear in mind that there are a great many people that don't know how to drive a manual transmission or who have very limited MT experience. If you're trying to learn how to manage a clutch, throttle, and shifter for the first time while adapting to 2 wheels, it can be a bit overwhelming.
THIS! I taught a friend that no experience with any of the above!
UPS man brought my jacket and gloves today. :rockon:
Went with a Rev'It GT-R Air Textile jacket and Alpinestars Atacama Air gloves. Size XL for both and they fit perfectly. Also got a Seesoft back protector for the jacket.
(http://i.imgur.com/MazsBmN.jpg)
Nice!
Ballin. :rockon:
Although, for that bike, I think you can only wear a black leather jacket over flannel and brown leather gloves. :devil: :nono:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 29, 2016, 10:51:49 AM
Ballin. :rockon:
Although, for that bike, I think you can only wear a black leather jacket over flannel and brown leather gloves. :devil: :nono:
Naw man, he needs one of these:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-harrison-leather-jacket (http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-harrison-leather-jacket)
Quote from: SVT_Power on April 29, 2016, 11:02:49 AM
Naw man, he needs one of these:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-harrison-leather-jacket (http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-harrison-leather-jacket)
Yes, get that.
Lol you guys send me the cash and I'll order one
Hey other than my helmet and boots, everything else I have is used. No cash here :lol:
Lucked out at the DMV. The title was from New Mexico and was signed by the person who sold the bike to the guy I bought it from. He never transferred the title. The previous person signed the title but didn't notarize it. Thankfully they still accepted it and also based the taxes off the book value, not what I paid for it. So taxes were only for $1175 book value. Yay.
I'm thinking about getting bar-end mirrors. Current ones can't see past my elbows enough and obviously don't look as sleek. The left grip is closed, so should I just cut off the end and go from there? The right grip seems go 1/2" beyond the end of the metal bar, so that'll be interesting to figure out as well.
So there's no bar end on the Left bar?
Nope, rubber grip covers the end.
That's odd. I'd just replace it with new grips. They're like $15.
Idle is a bit high after the bike has warmed up fully - around 2k rpm. At first I was thinking this was a symptom of running a tad lean, but the sparkplugs are a pretty good light tan color. But while I was tinkering around trying to figure out where all the jets and mixture screws are, I noticed that the far right intake boot wasn't clamped down tight. If that was leaking a bit of air it could explain the idle. I'll find out next ride.
If that's not it, I can probably tighten the mixture screw a bit to richen the idle. I don't think the main jets need to be touched.
It dawned on me that I could just twist the idle speed screw. Got it down to a perfect 1200 rpm now.
I also figured out I have to switch to reserve just under 100 miles. I actually thought I had screwed up the carbs because it was only a few minutes after I adjusted the idle screw, but figured out I should switch to reserve after thinking for a second. :lol:
I put in premium, but I think I'll be fine with regular. Compression ratio is like 8.6:1 assuming the engine is still stock, so that's well below the threshold for 87 octane.
Who's the genius that put phillips heads on all the clutch cover bolts?! I had to take all 6 out with a flat head and a 5 lb mallet. Hopefully I can find new ones...
All this just to lube the clutch cable.
Wat. Your clutch cable runs into your clutch cover? :confused:
Do you have a pic? Is it a dry clutch or something funky (I mean, dry clutch would probably have a hydraulic cable...).
Wet clutch. The cable goes into the cover and connects to a spring-loaded thingamajig that twists a shaft that goes to the clutch.
So it's the cover for the clutch cover, I guess. Or the sprocket cover. Idk.
(http://i.imgur.com/u3SvXYg.jpg)
What's the grease fitting for?
The spring loaded thingamajig that twists
This is the backside of the cover
(http://i.imgur.com/uw47EzT.jpg)
Home Depot comin in clutch with all 3 bolt lengths. Socket caps instead of those godforsaken phillips ( :rage: )
All that effort and it's just a little bit lighter. I can find neutral a bit easier, though.
In case anyone is wondering, there's a rod connected to the clutch that rests inside the spring loaded thingamajig. The spring loaded thingamajig moves inward when you pull the cable, pushing the rod inward and disengaging the clutch. So it's turning a cable pull into a simple sideways push. It took me a little too long to figure that out. :lol:
Well, most bikes have wet clutches (Ducatis and MotoGP bikes come to mind as a few that do not). Most of the newer bikes I've seen have the twisty thingy sitting out in the open so swapping clutch cables is stupid easy.
The engine started revving very high on the way home last night. We're talking 5-6k rpm. I didn't have to use the throttle at all if I didn't want to. I'm guessing an intake boot o-ring is torn and causing a huge vacuum leak. Luckily they're like $4 + $3 shipping. The only fun part will be taking the carbs out.
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html (http://cycleorings.com/intake.html)
Taking the carbs out is actually pretty easy. But the intake boots are held on with more phillips head screws that are tight AF. So I'll leave that pain until tomorrow. Should be able to use a cut off wheel to make a notch in the heads to get a flathead screw driver on them + pliers on the handle for leverage. And then they'll be replaced with stainless allen heads.
Good news! I only had to cut a notch in one of the bolts, the other 7 came off with a big Phillips head socket wrench. But they'll still get replaced (+ anti seize).
But I'm a bit puzzled, because the o-rings look fine and probably recently replaced. There was some dirt caked between the intake and head, but outside of the o-rings. Could be a clue that they weren't sealed tight enough even though they're in good condition?
I know your bike is hella older than mine, but if I had to wrench on my bike this much I'd just get rid of it and get another one.
It's a good thing you don't use that thing to commute on or else you'd be fucked by now. :lol:
Quote from: SVT_Power on May 24, 2016, 12:16:21 PM
I know your bike is hella older than mine, but if I had to wrench on my bike this much I'd just get rid of it and get another one.
This is super fun to wrench on. I enjoy it.
If a new bike needed as much help, I'd drop it in a heartbeat. Gotta have the charm to be enjoyable.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on May 24, 2016, 12:41:03 PM
It's a good thing you don't use that thing to commute on or else you'd be fucked by now. :lol:
Both of my vehicles are sitting with their engines partially disassembled. :lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 24, 2016, 12:53:30 PM
This is super fun to wrench on. I enjoy it.
If a new bike needed as much help, I'd drop it in a heartbeat. Gotta have the charm to be enjoyable.
Both of my vehicles are sitting with their engines partially disassembled. :lol:
I mean I enjoy wrenching on cars occasionally, but actually being able to use it is usually much more enjoyable :lol:
I could have kept riding it. It was actually pretty fun. Full throttle or nothing baby!
Until just now, 4/5 vehicles in the driveway were out of commission. El Camino is awaiting a new engine, Camaro is on jackstands halfway through a Gear Vendors install, bike is taken apart, and my mom's Mazda6 needed a new ignition coil. The VW was the only complete car. :lol: Fixed the Mazda, now it's time to get the bike running.
Goddammit.
I was so stumped - pushing the throttle closed really hard would bring the revs down, but it wasn't the throttle cables because it still raced when I disconnected the cables. So I pulled off the top cover of the carb, thinking the throttle rod must be gummed up or something, only to find the adjuster screw on top of the needle jet was completely fallen off and just hanging out in the top of the carb, blocking the throttle from closing fully. :facepalm:
Should be all fixed now.
Rode to Cars and Coffee today. Took the freeway there, since I was lazy and didn't roll out of bed very early and wanted to get there before all the Ferraris left. It does fine and has enough power to be in the left lane, but it's no fun. Too much wind and not the most stable. So on the way home I avoided the interstate and rode through the hills and next to the Ohio River. :wub:
Saw a gif of a cheap bar end mirror falling off a guys bike, so I went ahead and ordered the same pair for $12 :lol:
Put some loctite on the screw holding the ball socket to prevent any issues. Looks wise, its a lot cleaner and less cruiser-style. Mirror-wise, I can see more with just one mirror than I could with two stalk mirrors.
(http://i.imgur.com/M7lZmIT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/KtN7rup.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 28, 2016, 09:53:16 AM
Rode to Cars and Coffee today. Took the freeway there, since I was lazy and didn't roll out of bed very early and wanted to get there before all the Ferraris left. It does fine and has enough power to be in the left lane, but it's no fun. Too much wind and not the most stable. So on the way home I avoided the interstate and rode through the hills and next to the Ohio River. :wub:
Mine is stable to about 85 mph. I think the fairing helps.
I think about 75 is where I'll stop accelerating. Hard to tell since I'm sure the speedo is less and less accurate the faster you go.
Those old UJMs make slow feel fast. Between the numbing vibration, flimsy chassis, and poor aero, 70 on my brother's '81 Yamaha feels like mach 1.
Eventually.
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/fork-conversion-parts/products/complete-gsx-r-front-end-with-rim
Uh.... seems kind of overkill to put a GSX-R front end on that bike...
All the more reason to do it. :lol:
Add some Ohlins on the rear, build the engine, possibly brace the frame a bit. It'd be fun. It'd also be cheaper to just buy a FZ-07/9, but anyone can do that.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 05, 2016, 01:48:43 PM
All the more reason to do it. :lol:
Add some Ohlins on the rear, build the engine, possibly brace the frame a bit. It'd be fun. It'd also be cheaper to just buy a FZ-07/9, but anyone can do that.
You're just going to end up with a floppy chassis with some nice parts on it for way too much money.
I would much rather get the FZ-09 and throw some money on suspension and just have fun with that. No matter what you do to your bike the FZ will still feel more modern, be faster, more reliable and still have resale value.
The build is half the fun
Bike wouldn't downshift when I got to the stoplight to turn into a gas station on the way home. I was in 5th and was able to upshift into 6th, but not downshift. So I was stuck in 6th at a light waiting to turn left. Luckily it had enough grunt to get moving and I pulled into the station without any issues. One of the bolts from the clutch cover backed out and was blocking the shifter. :facepalm: I just took it out and will put it back in tonight. Was going to take all of those out anyway to put anti-seize on them.
My 2003 Gixxer used to do that! The bottom bolt in the Foot Peg would back out just enough to "seize" up the shifter!
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 13, 2016, 04:46:15 PM
Bike wouldn't downshift when I got to the stoplight to turn into a gas station on the way home. I was in 5th and was able to upshift into 6th, but not downshift. So I was stuck in 6th at a light waiting to turn left. Luckily it had enough grunt to get moving and I pulled into the station without any issues. One of the bolts from the clutch cover backed out and was blocking the shifter. :facepalm: I just took it out and will put it back in tonight. Was going to take all of those out anyway to put anti-seize on them.
Better use loctite instead of anti-seize.
I think I'm about to go down the dreaded path of pods and 4-1 exhaust. I don't see why everyone has such a problem though. Carbs are simple machines.
Looks like I'm in luck because I have roundslide VM carbs instead of CV carbs. Apparently the problem with pods and CV carbs involves air pressure differences between the pods, amongst other things. But my VM carbs are controlled directly by the throttle cable, so any choppiness is my fault. :lol:
I want a 4-1 exhaust to shed a bit of weight and get a racier sound. I want the pods so that when I have to re-jet the carbs for the exhaust, it'll be much easier to remove/install the carbs. Not really looking for any performance advantage, since the best case is <=3 hp and will move the power up in the rev range. Probably won't notice any real-world difference.
Or you could add two more cylinders for a racier sound.
Shed a whole 2 ounces by removing the chain guard. :rockon:
I ordered a spoke wrench last night around 6 pm and it got delivered today. Didn't realize Rocky Mountain ATV had a warehouse about an hour from my house in Kentucky. I've been to their warehouse/storefront in Utah many times which is why I ordered from them. Good thing I didn't pay for faster shipping!
I've got a slight front end wobble but everything seems to be in good shape. Except when I tap the spokes with a wrench, they don't ping as much as I think they should. I'll try tightening them a quarter turn or two and see if the wobble disappears.
Front end wobble is still present. Put the center stand back on so I could test the wheel bearings and they seem fine. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take the front wheel to a shop to have it trued.
Also, I realized that the clutch cable was getting smashed by the bottom triple clamp at full lock. :facepalm: I ziptied it out of the way for now but I'll replace it soon. Should hopefully lighten the lever effort.
Looking at keeping the stock forks, but improving them with Progressive springs, a 2" drop, and upgraded caliper & rotor.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?222546-Twinpot-Brake-Upgrade-on-GS550E-GS750C-GS1000C&highlight= (http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?222546-Twinpot-Brake-Upgrade-on-GS550E-GS750C-GS1000C&highlight=)
I could also swap to dual discs, but those have smaller diameter rotors and would obviously weigh more. The Blackbird rotor weighs less and should be just as good with grabby pads and SS lines.
(http://i.imgur.com/XuxwIzO.jpg)
Ghetto wheel truing setup. It's pretty much perfect - I tightened two spokes and that was it.
My steering head bearings have a dent in them, at the straight-ahead position. That might be the issue. I'll replace them when I lower the forks.
Pods and new exhaust are on!
Ugly and hard to take the carbs out:
(http://i.imgur.com/mVxmB2T.jpg)
Prettier and easy maintenance:
(http://i.imgur.com/P5jRIWC.jpg)
Mac 4-1 header, decent paint job on it - closer to powdercoat than paint. Might wrap it in the future, but for now I'll leave it as-is.
(http://i.imgur.com/ymXL6LH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/khTiZ3r.jpg)
It came with a muffler but it rubs against the frame. That section of frame is technically just for the stock muffler mount, but I don't want to do anything irreversible right now. I think I'll get a baffle to slide into the end of the header to cork it up a tad and reduce the noise a few dB. It sounds amazing right now (true 4 cyl scream) but I think I'm losing a bit of HP with the open header.
The header weighs about 9 lbs, the stock dual exhaust probably weighed 35 lbs. 25 lb weight loss! It's noticeable too.
Carbs were easy to tune - swapped from 80 main jets to 100 mains, moved the needles up 2 notches (highest position). Didn't touch the idle air screw yet. It's idling perfectly right now but I'll pull a sparkplug later tonight and see if it needs to be richened up any.
Goals.
(http://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1200x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/v/i/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-brat-chassis-seat-parts-dcc-originals-diy-steel-top-loop-kit-dcc-toploop-3_1.jpg)
(http://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1200x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/v/i/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-brat-chassis-seat-parts-dcc-originals-diy-steel-top-loop-kit-dcc-toploop-1_1.jpg)
Trimmed the side covers to clear the pods. They look better and less bulky without the notch anyway.
(http://i.imgur.com/ozP4E3R.jpg)
(Stock on left, trimmed on right)
Also made some new seat brackets.
(http://i.imgur.com/IS28jqZ.jpg)
Added a baffle and fiberglass packing to the exhaust header. Dropped the sound level by about 10 db. (From 90db to 80db) I also think it makes the header look more finished.
(http://i.imgur.com/UFjQNl5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vLRnFIw.jpg)
Skateboard seat!
(http://i.imgur.com/orQhTHU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XKKcYdb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/nnnbovn.jpg)
Unfortunately a quick test ride proved that the tail light was too close to the tire. Quickly moved it up to the edge of the seat and I'll take the bracket off.
(http://i.imgur.com/ESmlEDQ.jpg)
Still have no clue how I want to mount the license plate.
Have you changed the fork oil? It gets amazingly bad after a few years.
Quote from: shp4man on August 08, 2016, 08:56:27 AM
Have you changed the fork oil? It gets amazingly bad after a few years.
Not yet. I'm probably going to get progressive fork springs, so that'd be a good time to change the oil.
Foam seat pad in progress, using 8 lb carpet padding.
(http://i.imgur.com/h7VBxDX.jpg)
Nice. I love that stuff.
Skateboard seat was a fun experiment but I suck at upholstery stuff so I put the old seat back on. I don't want to go to an upholstery shop right now, but maybe on the future I'll get a nice cover for the foam and swap it back on.
Any pics of the attempt? How far did you get before you realized you didn't wanna?
I was experimenting with using shoe laces to hold it tight on the back side. It actually worked quite well, but I couldn't figure out how to wrap and hold the ends. Normally you would just staple it to the seat pan, but I was trying to just wrap the foam by itself.
If I had a good sewing machine, I could sew a basic two-piece cushion cover with the seam running along the edge of the foam.
Looks like the solution is to use a yoga mat or camping pad or some other closed cell foam, cut and glued to the board.
Similar to this
(http://i.imgur.com/cVCSS69.jpg)
buy a gel life jacket, cut out sections, and wrap the gel. Like a bicycle seat.
It's usually advised to never let your wife and girlfriend meet, but sometimes it just has to happen
(http://i.imgur.com/UjcDOVf.jpg)
Test run for when I move back to school later this week. Gonna end up using a total of 5 ratchet straps. Two on the triple clamps, two holding the rear frame section, and one holding the front of the frame. Seems like 1 more than needed, but the main 4 are all pulling the bike backwards and I need the 5th one to counteract that.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 16, 2016, 07:13:04 PM
It's usually advised to never let your wife and girlfriend meet, but sometimes it just has to happen
(http://i.imgur.com/UjcDOVf.jpg)
Test run for when I move back to school later this week. Gonna end up using a total of 5 ratchet straps. Two on the triple clamps, two holding the rear frame section, and one holding the front of the frame. Seems like 1 more than needed, but the main 4 are all pulling the bike backwards and I need the 5th one to counteract that.
Nice vehicles!
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 16, 2016, 07:13:04 PM
It's usually advised to never let your wife and girlfriend meet, but sometimes it just has to happen
[pic]
Test run for when I move back to school later this week. Gonna end up using a total of 5 ratchet straps. Two on the triple clamps, two holding the rear frame section, and one holding the front of the frame. Seems like 1 more than needed, but the main 4 are all pulling the bike backwards and I need the 5th one to counteract that.
That's how I position dirtbike in my bed. Can't close the gate if I run it straight-on, and I like to have it closed for safety/peace of mind and so other stuff in the bed doesn't have a chance to fall out (gas can, ramp, etc.). I only use two straps, though. One on each bar end hooked to the hand guards. Pulls it forward thanks to movable tie-down anchors running all around the bed and with the wheel wedged into the corner, it stays put pretty well. If I was driving long distances, I'd probably add straps to the rear as well, though. Fo sho.
Toyota's tie anchors on your Tacoma are the tits. I loved that system.
Quote from: MrH on August 16, 2016, 07:49:46 PM
Toyota's tie anchors on your Tacoma are the tits. I loved that system.
They are super convenient. They could stand to be a bit stronger, though, IMO. They're flexing a decent amount with the bike tightened down nice and snug, and they're only rated for 250lbs. But yes, they're wonderful. The similar system on my dad's Frontier feels a lot more solid/strong.
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 16, 2016, 07:34:29 PM
That's how I position dirtbike in my bed. Can't close the gate if I run it straight-on, and I like to have it closed for safety/peace of mind and so other stuff in the bed doesn't have a chance to fall out (gas can, ramp, etc.). I only use two straps, though. One on each bar end hooked to the hand guards. Pulls it forward thanks to movable tie-down anchors running all around the bed and with the wheel wedged into the corner, it stays put pretty well. If I was driving long distances, I'd probably add straps to the rear as well, though. Fo sho.
I'm sure it'd be fine with the front straps for around town. Since I have extra straps and have to drive 1600 miles on the freeway, I figure better safe than sorry.
What are these fancy moveable anchors?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 16, 2016, 07:59:57 PM
I'm sure it'd be fine with the front straps for around town. Since I have extra straps and have to drive 1600 miles on the freeway, I figure better safe than sorry.
What are these fancy moveable anchors?
Center cap screws/unscrews, then you can slide the anchor along the rail. There's a rail on each side as well as the front wall of the bed.
(http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8LRLmmlw70Q/maxresdefault.jpg)
I'm jealous. Do you put them on the front wall or just scoot them all the way on the side?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 16, 2016, 08:17:38 PM
I'm jealous. Do you put them on the front wall or just scoot them all the way on the side?
One of each. Say, the way your bike is sitting in that picture, the strap coming down from the right end of the bars would be on an anchor on the front wall, while the left strap would be on an anchor on the left wall pulling the front wheel snug into the corner.
Gotcha
BTW I gotta say hooray for kickstarter backups. I've had to kick start it twice this month because I didn't ride it much while messing with the seat and left the ignition on overnight once...
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 20, 2016, 11:52:40 AM
BTW I gotta say hooray for kickstarter backups. I've had to kick start it twice this month because I didn't ride it much while messing with the seat and left the ignition on overnight once...
I wish I had a kickstart.
You could always bump start it.
Soooo the bike died today as soon as I left the parking garage. I'm guessing it's a fuse or something - there's no power to the dash or headlights. No signs of tampering so it's probably just the old electrical components giving out. No biggie, just didn't have time to mess with it today.
But the good news is that I finally figured out how to get the steering lock to work!
Can't be a fuse. The bike had power an hour ago, so I started it up and tried to ride around the block but it died again. Thinking maybe the key switch is going bad?
Do you have a voltmeter? Recharge the battery, put a voltmeter on it when it's running- if it's below 12.5 volts you have a stator issue or rectifier or wiring or better yet, get a service manual for it.
I think the battery has enough voltage. While it was off last night it was reading 15v (kinda too high... :huh: ) and it started up just fine this afternoon. So either the switch is bad, a wire is loose, or the main fuse is not connected well. Right?
Some bikes won't run without a battery, so if the batt cables are bad or loose it could cause issues. I don't know if yours is like that. Start it and disconnect the batt...does it stay running?
It was the fuse. I'm assuming it was just old. New one didn't pop when I rode around the block.
My license plate broke off the other day. :wtf: I didn't even think that was possible, figured thin metal like that would just bend.
Still need to call and get a new plate. Gonna get a bracket to mount it on the axle this time. Might as well get the one with a girl in the picture, right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cafe-Racer-Custom-Vertical-Rolled-Black-License-Plate-Relocator-Bracket-/121558691110
:lol:
Thats how my plate is mounted.
Is that legal?
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Safety-Driveability-790/f/license-plate-placement-laws.htm
Depends on the state, but there's no info available for Kentucky. Might mean anything is fair game there :huh:
Yeah I feel like CA that wouldn't fly.
Then again most things aren't legal in CA. :lol:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on September 13, 2016, 10:22:53 AM
Yeah I feel like CA that wouldn't fly.
Then again most things aren't legal in CA. :lol:
From my link:
CALIFORNIA- License plates shall at all times be securely fastened to the vehicle for which they are issued so as to prevent the plates from swinging, shall be mounted in a position so as to be clearly visible, and so that
the characters are upright and display from left to right, and shall be maintained in a condition so as to be clearly legible. The rear license plate shall be mounted not less than 12 inches nor more than 60 inches from the ground, and the front license plate shall be mounted not more than 60 inches from the ground
Non-standard license plate mounting is like burned out bulbs, an acceptable excuse for an officer to pull you over whenever he feels like it.
Quote from: SVT_Power on September 13, 2016, 10:19:42 AM
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Safety-Driveability-790/f/license-plate-placement-laws.htm
Depends on the state, but there's no info available for Kentucky. Might mean anything is fair game there :huh:
Similar to our gun laws. I remember when I bought my .308 in Utah and the guy said he'd have to follow both Utah and Kentucky gun laws. I told him there weren't any KY laws and he didn't believe me. The shock on his face when he looked it up was fantastic. :lol:
Quote from: RomanChariot on September 13, 2016, 10:40:54 AM
Non-standard license plate mounting is like burned out bulbs, an acceptable excuse for an officer to pull you over whenever he feels like it.
Especially since Utah wants it to be horizontal. But I'm not too worried - vertical plate is better than no plate. :lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 13, 2016, 12:33:27 PM
Similar to our gun laws. I remember when I bought my .308 in Utah and the guy said he'd have to follow both Utah and Kentucky gun laws. I told him there weren't any KY laws and he didn't believe me. The shock on his face when he looked it up was fantastic. :lol:
Especially since Utah wants it to be horizontal. But I'm not too worried - vertical plate is better than no plate. :lol:
A vertical plate is a good excuse for a cop to pull you over, having no plate is gonna get you pulled over 11/10 times :lol:
I haven't had a plate since a week and a half ago and no one has pulled me over or even looked at me funny.
I do have an excuse right now - one corner of the plate is still bolted on so I can just claim I didn't know it broke off and it must have happened that day. Unlikely to completely get me out of trouble, but better than nothing. I do have the registration and insurance so everything else is in line.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 13, 2016, 12:53:53 PM
I haven't had a plate since a week and a half ago and no one has pulled me over or even looked at me funny.
I do have an excuse right now - one corner of the plate is still bolted on so I can just claim I didn't know it broke off and it must have happened that day. Unlikely to completely get me out of trouble, but better than nothing. I do have the registration and insurance so everything else is in line.
You might still receive a ticket, but ensuring your registration/insurance is all good will probably make sure you don't just get your bike towed on the spot
I got pulled over (in UT) for a plate violation - it was too low in his opinion. I got a warning for it, but nothing else. I ended up moving it higher up since I like to avoid extra attention from the fuzz.
I was going to rejet the carbs again, since UT is ~4500 ft elevation compared to ~500 ft in Cincinnati. I ordered 4 main jets from Bike Bandit instead of jetsrus.com, which was a bad decision. I think they sent me jets for a VM11 carb, not VM22. Now I'm contemplating if I even want to rejet. The plugs are pretty black, but not fouled, and it doesn't bog under acceleration at all.
This thing is finally panning out as a pussy magnet. Took two different chicas for a ride this weekend. First was a gal I've been talking to for the past couple weeks. The second girl just walked up to me while I was letting the engine warm up and doing a quick clean up / detail job on it. We talked for a few min and then I finally asked if she wanted to go for a quick ride around the block. Her eyes lit up like it was Christmas morning and she hopped right on. One twist of the throttle from a stop sign and her panties flew right off.
Okay not really but I got her number and might call her later this week.
Chicks dig bikes. :ohyeah:
I've gotten exactly 0 chicks on my bike.
Probably because I'm brown.
Forgot to mention that I also hit my new top speed on Sunday as well. Indicated 110 mph, so probably just over 100 actual. Didn't have a huge backpack on this time, so the aero was a lot better.
I need to do a valve check since I have no clue if it's ever been done. Looks like my options are buy a set of shims for $116 or tear it apart, measure what I need, and order only the shims I need. Then leave the bike unassembled in the parking garage for 3 days while I wait for them to come in the mail.
Plus I need a $20 shim removal tool.
Got a feeler gauge for the valve check. I'm gonna gamble and hope that it's still in tolerance, so I won't pre-order shims. It's still under 10k miles (barely :lol: ) and I know lots of guys don't actually have to adjust anything for 20-30k miles. We'll see. Should we take bets? It's got 8 valves, guess how many need adjustment and the winner gets a prize
What is this?
My first bike was a 1977 GS750. I later had a GS550. Love these things. Getting harder to find, though.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on September 13, 2016, 10:22:53 AM
Yeah I feel like CA that wouldn't fly.
Then again most things aren't legal in CA. :lol:
Register in South Dakota then. You can register anything by mail. That's how people have plated 2 strokes in Cali
Finally got my plate! To celebrate, I rode to get tacos with the plate in my pocket in case I got pulled over.
In case anyone is wondering, it's been more than a month and I never got hassled. Sometime this week I'll mess around with mounting the new one. I think I'm gonna have to take the rear axle off to slide the mount on the left side. I could put it on the right side pretty easily (just pop the castle nut off), but I figure it'll look better as a quasi-chain guard.
Also thinking about finally swapping to clip-ons. I want to get new levers at the same time. Current ones work fine but have a lot of vertical play.
Vertical play helps you remember how old it is, and that the brakes are not super great.
I'm also gonna upgrade the front brakes to a two-pot caliper and modern rotor
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 12, 2016, 09:14:48 PM
I'm also gonna upgrade the front brakes to a two-pot caliper and modern rotor
Very good plan.
Also, don't forget to carry around an extra condenser, a toothpick, paperclip and rubber band ... in case your points get fouled up.
If I swap forks to a later 550 with two rotors, or a 650G with two rotors, I can do the upgrade and have two slightly smaller 295mm (instead of one 310 mm) rotors. But my current forks are in good shape, just need progressive springs and new oil. The two rotors have better stopping power obviously, but would be more work. Worth it?
I went ahead and ordered a CBR1100xx Blackbird rotor from ebay. Having a part from a world speed record holder means my bike is also a world speed record holder, right?
Nice. I have an R6 rear master cylinder on the way as well. Because race bike.
:rockon:
Wait, is your rotor the same size as the Blackbird's? Or did you get the entire caliper and MC setup too?
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 14, 2016, 04:09:34 PM
Wait, is your rotor the same size as the Blackbird's? Or did you get the entire caliper and MC setup too?
Same size.
Interesting... I would have expected the Blackbird's to have been bigger (even though it does have two front discs).
It's 310mm vs. 295mm stock. I'm going to get a two-piston Kawasaki caliper and a bracket that swings the bottom bolt out so it'll fit on the larger rotor.
Same bolt spacing, but I have to drill the holes out a bit. It'll also need a small spacer to center the rotor in the caliper. Overall it's a lot lighter than the OEM disc (all steel) and provides a lot better stopping power. With SS lines and good pads, it should actually be able to lock up the wheel. I don't think I can do that now. :lol:
I'm not sure if I'll have to change my MC. If I swapped to two rotors I would need a larger diameter, but with the single rotor I might be fine. I'll wait and experiment once it's installed.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 14, 2016, 04:16:54 PM
Interesting... I would have expected the Blackbird's to have been bigger (even though it does have two front discs).
Twin 310s is pretty big. The liter-bike class runs 310-320 mm fronts. Hayabusas run 320s.
With the 310mm rotor, apparently the pads hang off the rotor a bit. A 320mm would be the best fit, but the GS brake swap master is still experimenting with those. If I was less impatient I might have waited to see his results.
Quote from: MX793 on October 14, 2016, 04:23:17 PM
Twin 310s is pretty big. The liter-bike class runs 310-320 mm fronts. Hayabusas run 320s.
I should have reworded that - I expected the GS's to be smaller (which it is - 295 mm, which is even smaller than my X's rotor).
Really? Interesting. CB300f has a 296mm single rotor
Buells have damn 9000 mm rotors.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 14, 2016, 06:38:11 PM
Really? Interesting. CB300f has a 296mm single rotor
My 250X has a 298 mm front rotor. 250R's have a 250 mm rotor.
A whole 2-3 mm larger! :lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 14, 2016, 08:57:21 PM
A whole 2-3 mm larger! :lol:
Except my bike weighs like 150 lb less than yours. :devil:
I gotta weigh it sometime. Maybe I'll see if I can use the pallet scale at work. It probably weighs less than you think it does. The 550 seems like the perfect cafe racer size - still has the cool 4 cylinder but is lighter than the 750s.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 15, 2016, 01:39:52 AM
I gotta weigh it sometime. Maybe I'll see if I can use the pallet scale at work. It probably weighs less than you think it does. The 550 seems like the perfect cafe racer size - still has the cool 4 cylinder but is lighter than the 750s.
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_gs550%2077.htm
476 lb wet.
Another point of reference:
http://www.suzukicycles.org/GS-series/GS550E.shtml
Shows 431 lb dry.
Not really surprising considering it's a 4 cylinder with a dual exhaust, old school steel frame, 4 carbs, twin shocks in the back, etc. Modern literbikes are still in the 440-450 lb range so it's not surprising that yours would weigh more.
I'm willing to bet it's under 400 lbs dry now that I've ditched the dual exhaust, airbox, chopped the frame, etc. The exhaust alone dropped over 20 lbs.
With the Blackbird rotor, a chopped front fender, and a lithium battery it'll be even better. I don't want to mess with the engine yet so any performance gains will be from weight reduction.
Don't forget to take a good poop before you ride. Every ounce matters. :cheers:
I added weight today :( but I finally have a license plate. The axle wasn't long enough so I put it on the shock bolt.
(http://i.imgur.com/Cr5kC2y.jpg)
I weighed it today. Didn't totally fit on the scale, so I had to weigh the front wheel and then the back wheel. Came out at 140/300, so 440 lbs wet (full tank of gas), so using the same 45 lb difference between wet/dry as those numbers posted above, I'm at 395 dry. :rockon:
What kind of scale did you use
I want to weigh my bike now
A pallet scale at work.
Two bathroom scales would work too, assuming they can handle 300-350 lbs
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 28, 2016, 01:03:27 PM
A pallet scale at work.
Two bathroom scales would work too, assuming they can handle 300-350 lbs
Just use the one your mom uses. :evildude:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 28, 2016, 01:48:53 PM
Just use the one your mom uses. :evildude:
I just ordered a bike cover. Made sure to get the XXL to fit both the bike and
your mom underneath.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 29, 2016, 12:20:42 AM
I just ordered a bike cover. Made sure to get the XXL to fit both the bike and your mom underneath.
HEY. Don't talk about my girlfriend like that. You'd better have da amberlamps on speed dial.
Sorry Nick I don't think ur gf will fit
(http://i.imgur.com/qlZE02f.jpg)
Why does it say REBERVED on that wall?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on November 03, 2016, 04:35:00 PM
Why does it say REBERVED on that wall?
The original berving wore off and it had to be.
It's actually RE8ERVED
Should I do clip-ons or keep the flat bars?
Also, checked out a sweet Bonnie at the grocery store tonight. Realized I for sure need to chop the front fender down and maybe lower the headlight a bit. That plus slimmer gauges would reduce the visual height of the bike a lot. Clip-ons would be a step further, but I'm not sure if I'd like the riding position more. Doesn't seem like they'd be a whole lot lower, about 2 inches compared to the current bar. But idk if that's enough to shift my weight onto my wrists, which would be dumb.
Also, clip-ons would probably require rearsets.
In the off road world, you want bar risers. Not lowerers. :lol:
I rode on a gravel rode once. #dirtlyfe
The first time I ever rode a motorcycle was on a sandy dirt road with my GS750. I was all over the place, but didn't dump it. #dertbyke
Tarozzi makes rearsets for GS550s, but only for Euro models. :rage:
I think I'll try clip-ons without the rearsets and see how I like it. I can always get a Tarozzi universal kit and make my own brackets if needed.
Was almost 70F on Friday, there's snow on the ground today. RIP riding season.
Clip ons with no rearsets made my back scream after a long ride. I would rather do rearsets with bars than clip-ons with the opposite.
I have been thinking about tinkering with the height of my headlight as well. My only fear is clearance to the fender. I feel like contact could be made under hard braking.
Just mount it to the fender then :lol:
It infuriates me that I can't come up with a reason not to do this :facepalm:
There was a Kawasaki twin-piston caliper under the Christmas tree. :rockon:
Once I get my act in gear and find a SS brake line it'll all be ready to swap.
Just printed out receipts from the past 6 months to put them into the paperwork folder. I've spent $670 on parts alone, plus another $50-60 on tools, $50 on a skateboard seat I'm not using right now, and $15 on the wrong type of carb jets.
:mask:
Battery has "upper" and "lower" marks for the acid or whatever. Most of the cells are under the lower line. I guess that explains why it doesn't hold a charge for too long.
Should I replace it with a Lithium battery or a regular lead acid one?
Braillle.
Lithium for sure. Longer lasting and light weight. Win win.
I could do Lithium and move it to the swing arm. Then I'd be one step closer to dat clean triangle.
Swingarm would be cool, as long as it's in an enclosure or something so dirt from the wheel doesn't mess up your terminals.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 26, 2017, 06:12:48 PM
Battery has "upper" and "lower" marks for the acid or whatever. Most of the cells are under the lower line. I guess that explains why it doesn't hold a charge for too long.
Should I replace it with a Lithium battery or a regular lead acid one?
Potato.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on January 26, 2017, 06:46:34 PM
Swingarm would be cool, as long as it's in an enclosure or something so dirt from the wheel doesn't mess up your terminals.
Yeah I'll have to look at box mounts.
My 1977 GS had a kick start. Never needed a battery.
Was it also a diesel? Need battery for spark....
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 26, 2017, 07:14:48 PM
Was it also a diesel? Need battery for spark....
Tell that to every pushmower or kickstart-only dirtbike.
Quote from: MX793 on January 26, 2017, 07:25:32 PM
Tell that to every pushmower or kickstart-only dirtbike.
I told my pushmower, but it just sat there and looked at me like I was the idiot in the room.
In a rare penny-pinching moment I attempted to just refill the battery cells with distilled water. I think I overfilled one and can't really tell where the others are at. Whatever, that's stupid and this is 2017. Lithium battery it is.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 31, 2017, 09:58:50 PM
In a rare penny-pinching moment I attempted to just refill the battery cells with distilled water. I think I overfilled one and can't really tell where the others are at. Whatever, that's stupid and this is 2017. Lithium battery it is.
Spent too much on the El Camino today and it's 55F and I want to ride, so I went to PetSmart and got a syringe and got the water level corrected. Should do for a while. $5 instead of $140.
edit: just kidding it's dead. Drops to 8v when it's hooked up to the bike. Barely got 3 seconds of cranking out of it and doesn't even seem to have enough juice to provide spark for a kickstart.
Lithium battery mang.
Is so light.
Happy?
(http://i.imgur.com/eLGFQwTl.jpg)
Yeeeee
You going to do the swingarm mount?
Not right now. I'm not ready to commit to the open triangle, which involves re-wiring and cutting tabs/mounts off permanently. I'll just stick it in the stock location for now and leave the side covers on.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on February 07, 2017, 04:16:36 PM
Yeeeee
You going to do the swingarm mount?
For the battery? :confused:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on February 07, 2017, 04:28:47 PM
For the battery? :confused:
Quote from: SVT_Power on February 07, 2017, 05:52:08 PM
Kalifornia logik
You guise could use some help reading, huh?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 26, 2017, 06:38:50 PM
I could do Lithium and move it to the swing arm. Then I'd be one step closer to dat clean triangle.
What is happen?
With this tiny thing, it might be easier to build a box to have it sit sideways under the seat. Said box could also store paperwork and an extra fuse.
That's a ways off, however. Need to get started on the brake swap next.
Inverted forks + brakes?
Stock forks + CBR1100RR rotor, Kawasaki 2 piston caliper
DCC has a mild set of Clubman bars that I may order. It'll bring the bar lower, but not as low as most Clubmans which emulate clip-ons. This seems like the best option because I won't have to change the headlight brackets or worry about rearsets.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/7-8-inch-gloss-black-cafe-clubman-handlebars.html
I'll also get some mini gauges.
BTW here's the battery in the old box. Took a few layers of foam to get a tight fit. Can turn it upside like a DQ Blizzard and it won't budge. I was worried because the terminals are level with the strap that ties the box down to the frame, but it's a rubber strap and I also have a rubber boot over the positive terminal. Hopefully should be fine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LwtTeQbBLYlx0SrYhZ2alwhXx501L168dasvbpnyZWkJyFMFGvkxYcilwlzpo7nZ-CLU4FDcl5EikA637V_n7ADhvpNGJdeo7RvufhwwkjpWtXW1jRC4x1KWGXyEsrrc4UOD-L2o3KbC-cV6b7-GijvIKTgkbLPiGgKormVVc4vospmkGuFoWIe21OmA8OXVDIpUmuuV5n7tKZZG8q_jdloJjHx7zigJBTSamTwYrXHH2_P85uErv5FXgUrnggmha8xPJxr3xXWD5QAWM3fhovwqSMctWePE9O04nIT-8u68-oQNzsAHfIAo9WkbV6A8jvgIa-th5uFEesMUJ5vljtxK8WhVkYITqQr2BnIliEA8JMyDr69qzBYBjJSr618CQI-MFLcOL3s7KtnLYLnA4Qeh0C6G7uni7-bQMlWs7h7OHpfTMpqAxNKmsqsbmAb3GkL7vTx27d9tn4vl4aEVn0p6oe4-jZJxlnNSLexxcKFrY9itXfBxLHOTocr7Gb9iTq87tAXBu8k5Tce4ACVFRKwcgsdfPWWSR8cPHvk1Oc85T2TDUaWEZ3oX-Izcfvgz6Lrjc8B2LrntHMBb3HFwVVOTXDIQdGG-B4jKa7jbQRS9W0Agz6p_pApvqwcVJVAQYhaC1yhGR0bfpJ5Tp6oWJAQbhuhtKoMOcmaKIJ9euQ=w851-h638-no)
Insurance renewal was emailed to me today. It dropped a whole $1.50/month!
When you only pay pennies a month it can't be discounted very much. :lol:
New wheel bearings came a few days earlier than expected. I should have all the parts needed to swap my brakes now. I'm feeling too lazy to do it today, though. Was planning on next weekend since the bearings said they'd be here Monday. Probably gonna stick to that. Should be a fairly simple swap. Take the wheel off, change bearings, swap rotors, install bracket + caliper, and then swap the SS brake lines on. I got a speed bleeder to hopefully make the final step quick & easy.
Step 1: Drill rotor bolt holes out to 8mm.
(http://i.imgur.com/DAsA9vSm.jpg)
Step 2: wheel bearings
Step 3: test fit everything
I took off the fender while I was at it. I think it looks better? I was going to buy a rusty one off eBay and chop it, paint it black. But maybe I'll just go without one and get a fork brace?
(http://i.imgur.com/4xZHXXN.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dSO9fGx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/P8DLhOP.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 29, 2017, 09:04:57 PM
I took off the fender while I was at it. I think it looks better? I was going to buy a rusty one off eBay and chop it, paint it black. But maybe I'll just go without one and get a fork brace?
(http://i.imgur.com/dSO9fGx.jpg)
Isn't that going to throw a lot of road slop up on you?
Yeah, I wouldn't run fender-less just for cleanliness' sake. That junk builds up quick and sticks really well, especially on hot areas like heads.
Does look cool, though. :mask:
I never ride in the rain
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 29, 2017, 09:34:51 PM
I never ride in the rain
Roads have more stuff on them than water.
The original plan was (is) to chop the fender. Like this:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7UpTyUG2Hqo/Tp3IRy4dnzI/AAAAAAAABP8/xlexbXqSGa4/s1600/MotoMucci+Side.jpg)
But wouldn't that basically allow just as much dirt to be slung up into the headers/engine?
Brakes are done! Got the new SS lines on, flushed and bled the system, and it works like a charm. The master cylinder is on the small side, needs a longer level pull to get full power. Might change that eventually, but it's not a big deal.
Also, hooray for speed bleeders. The fluid was hella dark and nasty so I flushed it all out while I bled it. Took maybe 5 minutes max and all I had to do was stand next to the bike squeezing the brake lever. Need to order some speed bleeders for my car.
Speed bleeders are great
I've been riding with no fender for 5 years, no slop
Chop that shit bruv
(http://i.imgur.com/4Ph9z5b.jpg)
Purdy!
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 07, 2017, 05:16:21 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/4Ph9z5b.jpg)
That's a nice little bike, dude. I can see you've put a lot of love into it. :ohyeah:
It was mint when I bought it. I'm just trying not to ruin it. :lol:
Next on the list is Progressive springs and new fork oil.
http://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Suzuki/GS550/1977-82
Race Tech springs could also be a good option. I'd be able to keep everything consistent with one brand - fork springs, gold valve cartridge emulators, and rear piggyback shocks. Looks like .80kg fork springs are what they recommend for my weight. I might call them if I can't find the stock spring rate on google.
edit: Progressive fork springs for GS550 are .62/.89 kg
(http://i.imgur.com/SLVpSbJl.jpg)
Only took 40 years!
Just order two different sizes of main jet. Stock was 80 (IIRC), I bumped them up to 100 when I did the pods/pipe. But I think that's a bit rich for summer weather at 5000 feet elevation. Order sizes 97.5 and 95. I need to do a valve check, make sure the carbs are synced, then play around with the jet size.
It killed two main fuses on Thursday. Might have been the regulator/rectifier touching something else and shorting out. I saw some little sparks when I wiggled things around under the seat. Ziptied the R/R out of the way, along with the turn signal relay.
I also ordered a new r/r from a Polaris RZR, apparently it's a popular mod since it's a series unit instead of shunt. Next week I'll install that and make a better bracket for all of my electrical stuff.
It takes FOREVER to start up if it's sat for more than a couple days. The prime setting works fine, so it shouldn't be a fuel issue. So I'm guessing it's either a choke issue or spark? The plugs are kinda black, so I bought new ones. I also ordered more new jets, size 87.5, to try to keep the new plugs cleaner.
I checked the points and they're fine.
Solution: ride it everyday! :lol:
Today's dope mod:
(https://i.imgur.com/O054SbGm.jpg)
Look how stupid that looks. The stickers are way too big for the motorcycle plate. They block the flag! How disrespectful.
(https://i.imgur.com/npt6Cigm.jpg)
Much better.
Amazing work.
Thanks fam.
:neverforget:
(https://i.imgur.com/nfudBQm.jpg)
Stock exhaust and carb jetting is back. Also installed new plugs. It started up immediately, so I think my previous issues were due to it being jetted too rich.
While the open pipe sounded GLORIOUS, the quiet stock exhaust should be a lot nicer for my commute and other longer trips.
I really need to change the fork oil. I should probably increase the spring rate while I'm at it.
....my shorai battery caught fire
wat
(https://i.imgur.com/Zhrt3DF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ceKGAkk.jpg)
The white stuff is from a fire extinguisher courtesy of a passing highway patrolman.
Ouch!
I was gonna say how did you put that out before your whole bike went up in flames
Damn. Guess I won't be getting a Li battery.
The bike started slowing down, so I thought I needed to switch to the reserve tank. But that didn't help and then all the gauges shut off. Figured the fuse blew, nbd I have a backup. When I pulled over, smoke started coming out from under the seat, so I opened that up (probably not the best idea if there was flames, but whatever) and the battery was hissing and smoking. Before I could really even get my phone out of my bag to call 911, a highway patrol car showed up and grabbed an extinguisher. Honestly, I'm not sure if that really helped since it appeared it was just a chemical meltdown with no flames, but better safe than sorry. I need to go wash the extinguisher powder off...
Called both AAA and my insurance and I wasn't covered for a tow from either, so I had to pay $190 to get it towed to the Lowe's just off the next exit. Ridiculous! I went back later that night and loaded it into the El Camino to bring it home. That was more of a challenge than it should have been, since the bars were locked and I left the key at home like a dummy. But we managed.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 29, 2018, 05:39:41 PM
Called both AAA and my insurance and I wasn't covered for a tow from either, so I had to pay $190 to get it towed to the Lowe's just off the next exit. Ridiculous! I went back later that night and loaded it into the El Camino to bring it home. That was more of a challenge than it should have been, since the bars were locked and I left the key at home like a dummy. But we managed.
AAA wants you to carry Motorhome coverage to get motorcycle towing.... :huh: :nutty:
Why bother getting a tow? Did you not have access to a ride home to fetch the Camino? Or was that trooper pressuring you? I woulda just said fuck you, it'll be sitting here for a bit.
Then again, I don't live in a city.
It was on the left side of the highway so it wasn't allowed to sit there. If it was on the right side it would have been fine to sit there for a while.
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-C6 on April 29, 2018, 05:52:51 PM
AAA wants you to carry Motorhome coverage to get motorcycle towing.... :huh: :nutty:
This is the second time that AAA has been unhelpful. Last time was when the El Camino's engine blew 40 miles outside of Moab and the AAA policy only had 10 miles of towing. We bumped it up to 80 miles IIRC, but not motorcycle coverage. I should probably just get rid of it.
Probably gonna sell this once I get a new battery + regulator. I don't ride it enough and it's not the best for wide-open Utah roads. Might just concentrate on cars + autox for now.
But it's so pretty, especially if I get a Brat seat and clean up the triangle. Maybe I'll just park it in the living room.
Don't get rid of it. You'll regret it when you get the itch to go for a two wheel ride.
http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=18D57080-1372-66AE-3B196DDB76162E0F
Other people with older bikes have had problems with voltage regulators allowing the battery to overcharge. I have a new style regulator from a Polaris sitting on the counter at home... Probably should have installed that a few months ago and saved myself a $200 towing bill.
Shorai sent me a new one for free. :rockon:
Quote from: giant_mtb on May 05, 2018, 01:05:40 AM
Don't get rid of it. You'll regret it when you get the itch to go for a two wheel ride.
I haven't got an itch in nearly a year. Maybe longer if you take out the track day. I'll probably be back, but it will be in a couple of years.
Swapping an SH775 R/R onto the bike now. Just realized that my old rectifier wasn't even grounded... The black wire comes out and connects to the metal body of the rectifier, which is normally bolted to the metal airbox. But I removed the airbox and the rectifier has just been ziptied and hanging in the air...
Oops. It probably works just fine with a ground! But I'll replace it anyway - the series SH775 will work better and run cooler.
Bike runs now, but won't rev over 6k. Might just be a dirty carb. I'll dig into that another day.
Voltage is 13.7 with the bike off, 13.2 all the time with the bike turned on, no matter what rpm. Should be at least 13.5 above 2000 rpm. Up to like 14-14.4 at 5k rpm
Either the wiring connection to the new R/R is insufficient or the stator is wonko
Low beam burned out so we gonna try this bad boy.
(https://i.imgur.com/OcJ20qp.jpg)
Let me know how you like it. Was considering trying something similar. I didn't like the idea of a fan in the base of the bulb though.
Quote from: MrH on September 05, 2018, 07:59:37 AM
Let me know how you like it. Was considering trying something similar. I didn't like the idea of a fan in the base of the bulb though.
I run LEDs in the headlights of my 'Rolla and the Fogs in the C6. The fans don't cause any issues......
I'm hopeful. Stock stator output only supports 35W bulbs, which are super dim. These are 32W and should be a lot brighter
It works! Quite well.
The dash lights didn't turn on, nor did the tail light (but the brake light works). Still doesn't like to rev. I'm guessing my battery melt down screwed up all of that as well as burning out the previous headlight bulb. I'll have to check all the wires and bulbs.
edit: after staring at the wiring diagram, I think the gray wire is the culprit for the dash/tail lights. It's the common link and doesn't connect anything else. Since the brake lights still work, I know the rear LEDs are still OK and not burned out, so it's gotta be a wire. The diagram doesn't appear to have them wired in series.
So my new regulator/rectifier wasn't getting AC voltage through all 3 wires with the burned out headlight bulb. One of the wires is linked to the headlight circuit, so it only gets 2/3 voltage with the light off and full voltage with it on. I replaced the bulb and now it's working normally, but I'm still not getting more than ~13.7 volts at 5k rpm and the bike doesn't want to rev much higher than that (probably because the coil isn't getting enough voltage to support that much spark).
I ordered a new regulator (again), because it's gotta be an issue with this used Polaris regulator. I went with the SH775 series regulator because it's supposed to run cooler and stuff, but they're expensive to buy new and apparently used ones are a crapshoot. The older shunt style ones can be had for $20.
The new regulator didn't do anything to help the problem. I'm currently trying to get the stator cover off. The stupid JIS-head screws are totally seized. I've extracted 2 out of the 7 so far. I ordered a JIS t-handle screwdriver to see if that can help get the other 5 off, otherwise I'll extract those are well. They'll all be replaced by stainless steel hex cap screws because screw these JIS screws.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 02, 2019, 08:44:02 PM
The new regulator didn't do anything to help the problem. I'm currently trying to get the stator cover off. The stupid JIS-head screws are totally seized. I've extracted 2 out of the 7 so far. I ordered a JIS t-handle screwdriver to see if that can help get the other 5 off, otherwise I'll extract those are well. They'll all be replaced by stainless steel hex cap screws because screw these JIS screws.
Impact driver?
Impact strips the heads too. The metal is too soft and Philips style screws are the worst
It's a special tool for bikes that turns the Phillips head screw when you hit it with a hammer.
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Reversible-Applications-Disengage-Fasteners/dp/B077D298R7/ref=asc_df_B077D298R7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9765252463798410765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031309&hvtargid=pla-569147419830&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Reversible-Applications-Disengage-Fasteners/dp/B077D298R7/ref=asc_df_B077D298R7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9765252463798410765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031309&hvtargid=pla-569147419830&psc=1)
Quote from: shp4man on May 03, 2019, 07:53:29 AM
It's a special tool for bikes that turns the Phillips head screw when you hit it with a hammer.
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Reversible-Applications-Disengage-Fasteners/dp/B077D298R7/ref=asc_df_B077D298R7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9765252463798410765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031309&hvtargid=pla-569147419830&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Reversible-Applications-Disengage-Fasteners/dp/B077D298R7/ref=asc_df_B077D298R7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9765252463798410765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031309&hvtargid=pla-569147419830&psc=1)
When did impact screwdrivers become a special bike tool? :confused:
One of those didn't work either. Nor did an actual JIS screwdriver bit. So I'm gonna have to drill/extract all of them.
Philips style heads do not belong on vehicles unless it's screwing into plastic.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 03, 2019, 07:49:13 AM
Impact strips the heads too. The metal is too soft and Philips style screws are the worst
Slotted screws are the worst. Philips are second worst.
Quote from: SVT_Power on May 03, 2019, 09:32:03 AM
When did impact screwdrivers become a special bike tool? :confused:
It's not just for bikes. It's for trikes, too. Oh, and anything with screws and bolts. :lol:
Quote from: MX793 on May 05, 2019, 04:59:25 AM
Slotted screws are the worst. Philips are second worst.
True. But most people are smart enough to not use a slotted screw on anything that is very tight.
My extractor bit broke off :banghead:
Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeit. I didn't even know "JIS screws" were a 'thing'.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 05, 2019, 11:37:27 AM
True. But most people are smart enough to not use a slotted screw on anything that is very tight.
You shoulda got a Harley :huh:.
Quote from: FoMoJo on May 06, 2019, 10:44:33 AM
You shoulda got a Harley :huh:.
I'm just trying to get this cover off so I can check the stator. And once I get this electrical thing figured out, there's a good chance I'm gonna sell it!
I used a center punch and a hammer to try to get the broken bit out of the head, and it actually managed to loosen the screw instead of getting the broken bit out. I won't complain.
4 more to go.
OK so I got all the bolts out. Stator looks fine. Could it still be bad? I'm wondering what else it could be. Ignition coil?
(https://i.imgur.com/VQoTnWD.jpg)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 14, 2019, 08:23:52 PM
OK so I got all the bolts out. Stator looks fine. Could it still be bad? I'm wondering what else it could be. Ignition coil?
(https://i.imgur.com/VQoTnWD.jpg)
Yeah that looks fine! Do you have a retifier?
Ok so I have a couple of lights that aren't working right now either. The tail light doesn't come on with the headlights, even though the brake light works fine (same bulb). Neither do the dash lights for the tach or speedo (but all of the other dash lights work fine). In Park, neither the tail light or the front yellow bulb in the headlight comes on. The two affected wires are the gray or brown wire on the wiring diagram. They go through the ignition switch and lighting switch. The lighting switch is where the gray wire originates, and it also happens to be where one of the stator wires goes through (so the stator is only running 2/3 power unless the headlight is on?)
If I replace the lighting switch, it might solve all of these issues. I'll do some testing tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/Tb6eh0I.jpg)
I got the turn signal working. The ground wire came out of its connector so that was an easy fix.
I also re-wired the stator to bypass the lighting switch. Took it out for a test ride and it was still a bit hesitant to rev, but not as bad as before. I'm wondering if the valves are just a bit sticky from not being ridden for a year? I should probably check them
Checked the valves today. Luckily the valve cover came off easily and none of the screws or bolts were seized. I need 3 shim changes. Unfortunately it looks like the factory installed the same shim size all around so I couldn't do any swapping. I'll probably stop by the local shop tomorrow and see if they have what I need.
2 exhaust shims are .01 mm loose and 1 intake shim is too tight. I feel like that's probably not enough to cause the rev issue, but who knows.
I would loosen that intake shim, and leave the exhaust shims. Exhausts are best left on the loose side of the spec, anyway.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 23, 2019, 08:25:28 PM
I would loosen that intake shim, and leave the exhaust shims. Exhausts are best left on the loose side of the spec, anyway.
Maybe. I'll order some anyway and play around with it to see what the engine likes more.
I tried to call around to some local shops to see if they had shims, but no. One shop didn't know what I was talking about. I think maybe he mistook diameter for thickness? I need 29.5 mm diameter, 2.75mm thickness. I don't even know what he said, but it was something about 8 mil I think. He asked if maybe I needed a shim for the suspension. :wtf: So I ordered them online because they don't deserve my business even if they actually had what I needed.
A motorcycle shop that doesn't know about shimming valves...? That's odd. Did you talk to the service/parts dept. or was it just a salesman or something?
Well, if you just say "Hey Alexa, order me some shims", you might get a box full of soft wooden wedges for door frames. :lol:
Quote from: giant_mtb on June 25, 2019, 09:43:31 AM
A motorcycle shop that doesn't know about shimming valves...? That's odd. Did you talk to the service/parts dept. or was it just a salesman or something?
Service/parts guy. I think that shop also does chainsaws and stuff. :wtf:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 25, 2019, 10:00:07 AM
Service/parts guy. I think that shop also does chainsaws and stuff. :wtf:
Ah, so it's not like a motorsports dealership with a service department, it's more like a small engine shop?
Quote from: giant_mtb on June 25, 2019, 10:02:33 AM
Ah, so it's not like a motorsports dealership with a service department, it's more like a small engine shop?
Kinda. They sell dirtbikes and side by sides along with lawn mowers and stuff.
https://www.cutlers.com/
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 25, 2019, 01:35:56 PM
Kinda. They sell dirtbikes and side by sides along with lawn mowers and stuff.
https://www.cutlers.com/
On their service department page, there's literally a section labeled "valve adjustment".... :lol:
https://www.cutlers.com/services
https://www.cutlers.com/services/85775/valve-adjustment
Edit: Though it does seem like they focus on the power equipment end when it comes to service...they don't list anything specific to motorcycles. Just power equipment.
Yeah. I just ordered from Z1 online. I'll just wait a couple of days to put it all back together. I'm in no rush - the thing has been sitting for over a year at this point. :lol:
I got the shims yesterday. The intake 2.75 went in well, but the 2 exhaust shims are giving me weird results. I'm wondering if they dug grooves into the stocks shims to make them seem loose, when actually they were too tight. I went ahead and order 2 more 2.75 and 2.70 mm shims to see how they respond to thinner shims.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 29, 2019, 08:34:58 AM
I got the shims yesterday. The intake 2.75 went in well, but the 2 exhaust shims are giving me weird results. I'm wondering if they dug grooves into the stocks shims to make them seem loose, when actually they were too tight. I went ahead and order 2 more 2.75 and 2.70 mm shims to see how they respond to thinner shims.
I told you to leave the exhausts alone :evildude:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 29, 2019, 09:31:42 AM
I told you to leave the exhausts alone :evildude:
When I put the stock shims back in, they gave me tighter measurements too. Wtf yo
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 29, 2019, 01:42:44 PM
When I put the stock shims back in, they gave me tighter measurements too. Wtf yo
Temperature change?
I think the shims are good now. Just waiting for the new valve cover gasket and I can get it all back together
Engine starts up quicker and revs normally. :rockon:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on July 14, 2019, 11:45:26 PM
Engine starts up quicker and revs normally. :rockon:
:clap:
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/bridgestone-battlax-bt45-v-rated-front-motorcycle-tire-p
I'm a dummy and didn't tighten the gas tank bolt before test riding last week and it's gone now. Luckily Bike Bandit has new ones, plus new spacers and rubber bushings. They also have the gas tank emblems so I ordered those. $37 out of my pocket because of the thief.
I also got a new rubber ball for the kickstand. The old one dry rotted off a while ago.
I've figured out that when my battery melted down, it probably burnt out any and all lightbulbs that were on at the time. Including my tail light and dash lights. But not the brake light even though it's the same LEDs, so it must have just burned out the soldered connection or something. Luckily a new LED brake light string is $10 on Amazon. I also got some other goodies that I'll post a picture of later this week once it's all installed.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on July 19, 2019, 11:58:34 AM
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/bridgestone-battlax-bt45-v-rated-front-motorcycle-tire-p
By a fr/rear set and get a $60 rebate: https://bridgestonerewards.com/
Quote from: Speed_Racer on March 10, 2020, 02:46:46 PM
By a fr/rear set and get a $60 rebate: https://bridgestonerewards.com/
Oh nice. I need to get some more rides in and wear out my Shinkos!
My parking light blew out so I got a whole new headlight from Amazon for like $65. When I got the LED H4 bulb before I didn't realize you could get these full LED lights for cheap. I only knew about the $400 ones.
(https://i.imgur.com/3e1YdC6.jpg)
sweet
those stock headlights are terrible for actual night riding
I AM THE NIGHT RIDER!!! :lol:
This has a pretty good beam cutoff too
(https://i.imgur.com/Jj3zh7j.jpg)
My starting issue wasn't gummed up carbs. The vacuum line for the petcock either came off or I failed to hook it up last time I had the tank off... Explains why the bike started but couldn't rev. Just didn't have enough fuel
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 01, 2020, 05:43:03 PM
My starting issue wasn't gummed up carbs. The vacuum line for the petcock either came off or I failed to hook it up last time I had the tank off... Explains why the bike started but couldn't rev. Just didn't have enough fuel
Sense is not made. Check your spindles for metal fatigue.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on May 01, 2020, 07:09:41 PM
Sense is not made. Check your spindles for metal fatigue.
I could get the bike started with the primer setting on the petcock but once I got it going and switched it to the normal vacuum setting, it would eventually die. Didn't want to rev or come off the choke because it accelerated the fuel usage and killed it faster...
Runs great now that the vacuum hose is connected
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 01, 2020, 11:56:58 PM
I could get the bike started with the primer setting on the petcock but once I got it going and switched it to the normal vacuum setting, it would eventually die. Didn't want to rev or come off the choke because it accelerated the fuel usage and killed it faster...
Runs great now that the vacuum hose is connected
Oh, yeah. I think I plugged that vacuum line on my ol bikes and just had normal petcocks.
I put it up for sale. $2k seems reasonable. Had 1 girl come look at it today but she's short and a new rider so she wasn't comfortable with the seat height. She probably needs a Honda Rebel or Yamaha Bolt or something. Another guy texted me but won't do more than $1500. I think $1800 is my minimum. I don't need to get rid of it, just don't ride it much so might as well sell it
The best part of riding season is just getting started - no use in taking low offers for now
Sold for $1700. Guy knows his bikes so I trust he'll take good care of it and be able to maintain it.
Mods, lock the thread! :lol:
Lol adios Black Betty
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 24, 2020, 01:09:22 PM
Sold for $1700. Guy knows his bikes so I trust he'll take good care of it and be able to maintain it.
Mods, lock the thread! :lol:
So, another bike or is that phase over?
:cry:
Quote from: FoMoJo on May 24, 2020, 03:07:25 PM
So, another bike or is that phase over?
Probably not. I find cars more fun & practical.