I had an idea that could provide some entertainment in here and educate at the same time.
I know that most of us aren't full blown mechanics, but we've certaintly got our share of mechanically inclined folks.
Not that it has to be a regular thing, but I think it would be fun if people posted up automotive problems and had the rest of us try and diagnose. ie you provide the symptoms and answer questions, while we try to solve the problem.
Of course knowing the answer would help the game out a bit, but I suppose if we could actually help to solve a problem that would be great too.
I don't know how well this will work, but I'll give it a shot by starting us off with an easy one (well I guess thats a relative term).
Vehicle: 1994 Buick Regal, 3.8L
Problem: Little to no heat from the climate control
Observations: Engine temperature appears to be alright, maybe a little low. Upper rad hose is hot, and cooling fans appear to be operating as they should.
water pump?
edit: didnt read the problem.
Quote from: heelntoe on February 02, 2007, 11:21:23 AM
water pump?
Engine not overheating, coolant confirmed to be circulating.
Heater core bad?
Quote from: The Pirate on February 02, 2007, 11:28:10 AM
Heater core bad?
We have a winner.
Figured it wouldn't take too long. Heater core was clogged up. Its been replaced and now there is an inferno comming out of the vents.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 02, 2007, 11:28:10 AM
Heater core bad?
That would one be guess. Could also be a problem with the thermostat or the little door/valve that controls the mixture of air in the HVAC system.
Quote from: MX793 on February 02, 2007, 11:52:06 AM
That would one be guess. Could also be a problem with the thermostat or the little door/valve that controls the mixture of air in the HVAC system.
I did replace the thermostat since its easy and cheap on this engine. I also speculated that the mixture door could be the problem, but ruled it out as moving the temperature from cold to hot did yield a difference, but not much of one.
Ok, so whos got the next one?
Umm, my 1992 van sounds funny? :devil:
Engine noise at idle.
I replaced the serpentine belt (it and the tensioner broke last winter,) and this summer did the waterpump as preventative maintenance.
I'll try to post the sound today..
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 02, 2007, 12:12:18 PM
Umm, my 1992 van sounds funny? :devil:
Engine noise at idle.
I replaced the serpentine belt (it and the tensioner broke last winter,) and this summer did the waterpump as preventative maintenance.
I'll try to post the sound today..
I think its the nut behind the wheel.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 02, 2007, 12:12:18 PM
Umm, my 1992 van sounds funny?? ? ?:devil:
Engine noise at idle.
I replaced the serpentine belt (it and the tensioner broke last winter,) and this summer did the waterpump as preventative maintenance.?
I'll try to post the sound today..
What engine does it have?
Put a stethoscope on the alternator.
Could be worn bushes.
Great thread idea BTW VTEC_inside!
Quote from: 93JC on February 02, 2007, 12:29:05 PM
What engine does it have?
On that note we should lay some ground rules.
When starting a new "problem", please state the following:
- Vehicle - make, model, year, engine, and transmission(if it isn't a given)
- Problem/Symptoms - what caused you to start poking around.
- Observations - what you have discovered thus far, and any other preliminary information that may be relevant.
Quote from: 93JC on February 02, 2007, 12:29:05 PM
What engine does it have?
Good point.
It's a 1992 3.3L Plymouth Voyager (chrysler/dodge), FWD 4spd auto tranny,
The sound has steadily grown worse over the last year or so, and come to think of it, I'm probably causing the alternator to work a little bit more since I put the sound system in. Wonder what kind of power it draws?? (Too lazy and it's raining now to check it out.) And now that I think about it, I need to replace the alternator bracket on top: it's broken but the small corner that the top bolt goes through has held it in place..
And it also sounds crappy on startup: I assume it needs some real engine work but i don't know if I'll get to it before I leave for Kuwait in May.
R-Inge, I'll definitely take a listen.
I really don't know how much we can all figure out from through this magical internet tube-thingey, I was sorta kidding, but I'll check it out.
(A few years back the SHO forum guys diagnosed a bad crank sensor for me from a lame problem description, but those are well-known problems...)
PS-
I don't know the history on the alternator, I bought the van at 82k miles in May 2004. Now it's got 116k.
The battery was brand-new, stolen from the SHO when I scrapped it, and it's bigger/more amps than the original..
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on February 02, 2007, 11:50:46 AM
We have a winner.
Figured it wouldn't take too long. Heater core was clogged up. Its been replaced and now there is an inferno comming out of the vents.
I had that clogged problem once, except that it was of a frozen water variety clog. Yep, not enough antifreeze...
1982 Dodge Ramcharger. 318 V8. AT. 180,000 mile. Very cold day.
Similar problem: no heat from HVAC system. Engine temperature normal (per gage, and heat felt from engine when hood was up).
Note: not the clog issue I just mentioned.
(Concerning Will's dilema)
The major rotating assemblies on the front of your engine are the alternator, water pump, a/c compressor, and the idler and/or tensioner pulleys.? You already have a new tensioner and water pump, are there any other idler pulleys on these?? That leaves the A/C compressor and the alternator.
If the alternator and the a/c comp run on seperate belts try removing one or the other, whichever is convienient, and run the engine for a few minutes to listen.? If one eliminates the noise, ding-ding!!
Quote from: GoCougs on February 02, 2007, 05:23:08 PM
1982 Dodge Ramcharger. 318 V8. AT. 180,000 mile. Very cold day.
Similar problem: no heat from HVAC system. Engine temperature normal (per gage, and heat felt from engine when hood was up).
Note: not the clog issue I just mentioned.
Air-bound heater core from coolant leak?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 02, 2007, 12:12:18 PM
Umm, my 1992 van sounds funny?? ? ?:devil:
Engine noise at idle.
I replaced the serpentine belt (it and the tensioner broke last winter,) and this summer did the waterpump as preventative maintenance.?
I'll try to post the sound today..
Can you describe the noise a bit more, and how it relateds to engine rpm.
Quote from: NACar on February 02, 2007, 07:12:15 PM
Can you describe the noise a bit more, and how it relateds to engine rpm.
I'll get something on it tomorrow- but it's just noisy at idle, sounds mechanical (valvetrain?) and I haven't really paid attention with revving it.
It's only got 1 accessory belt, which is more trouble to get on/off than I want to deal with just to see if it's the accessories.
I'll tinker with it in the next few months-
Quote from: R-inge on February 02, 2007, 06:49:38 PM
Air-bound heater core from coolant leak?
Not exactly, but you're close.
Hint: though the engine was hot per the gage and to the touch, the upper radiator hose was cool. Nothing was frozen or clogged, either.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 10:02:03 AM
Not exactly, but you're close.
Hint: though the engine was hot per the gage and to the touch, the upper radiator hose was cool. Nothing was frozen or clogged, either.
Busted thermostat. It wasn't opening?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WUeYqQdLOw
So here's the easiest way to record sound for you guys.
The startup didn't record as well as I'd hoped, and the batteries died as I was recording with the hood closed- but it's NOISY.
Notice too the broken alternator mount (where the bolt goes in isn't connected to the rest of the bracket) and there's a clicking coming from the top of the block (didn't capture well)- is that the injectors or valvetrain?
And so you know, the alternator is on top back (relative to the car) of the engine, a/c compressor top front, a few pulleys, the power steering is low, the waterpump is bottom front.
:huh:
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 10:02:03 AM
Not exactly, but you're close.
Hint: though the engine was hot per the gage and to the touch, the upper radiator hose was cool. Nothing was frozen or clogged, either.
Did the vehicle ever overheat?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 03, 2007, 10:45:57 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WUeYqQdLOw
So here's the easiest way to record sound for you guys.
The startup didn't record as well as I'd hoped, and the batteries died as I was recording with the hood closed- but it's NOISY.
Notice too the broken alternator mount (where the bolt goes in isn't connected to the rest of the bracket) and there's a clicking coming from the top of the block (didn't capture well)- is that the injectors or valvetrain?
And so you know, the alternator is on top back (relative to the car) of the engine, a/c compressor top front, a few pulleys, the power steering is low, the waterpump is bottom front.
:huh:
While it's running pour some water on the belt slowly.? Does the pitch of the noise change or go away completely?? If so it's your belt.
That clicking I heard when you were over the block sounds normal. The valvetrain creates a lot of noise normally.
Quote from: R-inge on February 03, 2007, 11:02:48 AM
Did the vehicle ever overheat?
In the true classical sense (as in a boil-over), no, it did not.
Hint: Once remedied (which was a quick, cheap and easy fix), their didn't appear to be any damage.
Another hint: the conditions of the day were critical.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 11:33:40 AM
In the true classical sense (as in a boil-over), no, it did not.
Hint: Once remedied (which was a quick, cheap and easy fix), their didn't appear to be any damage.
Another hint: the conditions of the day were critical.
Are we talking 105F or below freezing?
And did the temp gauge soar is what I was meaning to ask.
Quote from: R-inge on February 03, 2007, 12:07:46 PM
Are we talking 105F or below freezing?
And did the temp gauge soar is what I was meaning to ask.
It was very cold, like 5F, blowing wind, and highway travel.
The temperature gage was normal.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 02:40:26 PM
It was very cold, like 5F, blowing wind, and highway travel.
The temperature gage was normal.
Did you blow a hose?
Quote from: R-inge on February 03, 2007, 03:22:19 PM
Did you blow a hose?
Perhaps I cheated a bit. There wasn't actually anything broken per se. I actually I ran it almost competely empty of coolant.
I was on a long drive to from Seattle up to British Columbia. After about 80 miles, I started getting cold. I just figured that with the low temperature, howling wind, and the relative large size of the interior, the HVAC system just couldn't keep up. But upon feeling the air out of the vents, it was cold. I knew that that wasn't right.
So I pull off the freeway and stop at a Schuck's type place. I pop the hood to take a look, but don't see anything obvious. I did see some evidence of leaking coolant from around the thermostat housing, but I'd always had that since seems to be common place for erosion for aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds.
Anyway, I went in the store to ask advice, and they really didn't have any clue either. Being some kind of cooling system issue, we popped the radiator cap just as a general investigative measure, and didn't see any coolant. In fact, it was completely dry. Didn't think much of it, but knew that while I was there, I should get some water and antifreeze. So I buy 1 gallon bottles of each. I add a bit of each, but I didn't see the coolant level rise (still saw no coolant). So then I add more and more, until I added 2 gallons total. Still no sign of coolant level from looking down the radiator fill neck. I buy more. And more.
All told, I figured that with what I had to add to get it filled, I'd run it about 90% dry. The thermostat housing must of leaked far more than I had figured. After that, I started it up, and had plenty of heat in short order. IMO, I didn't suffer catastrophic damage due to the cold weather and howling wind. I didn't have those inner fender splash guards, so wind was entering the engine compartment with ease. I'm sure the engine (and especially the water pump) took somewhat of a beating, but I never had any problems with it after that.
As far as the temperature gage, I'm not sure why it didn't measure anything out of the ordinary; or IIRC, I didn't remember it doing so. It was a stock gage with non-dimensioned hash marks, so its accuracy I'm sure wasn't the best.
Yeah the cold air probably saved you. The motor oil in the sump would have been cooled somewhat which would have helped cool the engine internally.
I was starting to lean towards an external leak but I had this mental image of sudden loss of hot air, etc. I would have figured water pump leaking since I do so many of those on GMs, not sure how reliable they are on Mopars.
Good one.
Alright, this one is going to make you all curse my name before the gods.
The car: last generation Pontiac Grand Am (I believe it was a 2004 to be exact).
Engine: is irrelevant.
Symptom: Heater (again we return to HVAC as a common source of complaint) blower operates on only M3 and High.
To help you: Blower has five speeds: Lo, M1, M2, M3 and Hi. Temperature and distribution of air not an issue.
Quote from: R-inge on February 03, 2007, 05:31:39 PM
Alright, this one is going to make you all curse my name before the gods.
The car: last generation Pontiac Grand Am (I believe it was a 2004 to be exact).
Engine: is irrelevant.
Symptom:? Heater (again we return to HVAC as a common source of complaint) blower operates on only M3 and High.
To help you:? Blower has five speeds: Lo, M1, M2, M3 and Hi.? Temperature and distribution of air not an issue.
Did the blower on M3 and Hi correct at the correct, respective speeds?
If yes, I say broken rheostat on Lo - M2.
If no, I say worn brushes on the DC motor.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 05:17:15 PM
Perhaps I cheated a bit. There wasn't actually anything broken per se. I actually I ran it almost competely empty of coolant.
All told, I figured that with what I had to add to get it filled, I'd run it about 90% dry. The thermostat housing must of leaked far more than I had figured. After that, I started it up, and had plenty of heat in short order. IMO, I didn't suffer catastrophic damage due to the cold weather and howling wind. I didn't have those inner fender splash guards, so wind was entering the engine compartment with ease. I'm sure the engine (and especially the water pump) took somewhat of a beating, but I never had any problems with it after that.
As long as it's wintertime and cold, you really can run most cars without coolant, at highway speeds.
I blew the upper rad hose (without knowing it) on a 79 Subaru about 25 miles into a 100mile trip (back to college, forgot to upshift after I had downshifted to get up a Wyoming "hill".) The heater didn't work for a few weeks, that engine bay had lots of room for air to circulate.
The heater core went out on a 94 Crapalier (free from family, I promise!) in NY at about midnight when we were headed to NH for Christmas 2000. It was EXTREMELY cold that night, we had to keep scraping ice from the inside of the windows and put about 5 blankets on the baby.. We were so tired we stopped to sleep but couldnt because we were too cold. We were so silly when we got there that my wife missed the turn to her parents' house...
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 06:41:48 PM
Did the blower on M3 and Hi correct at the correct, respective speeds?
If yes, I say broken rheostat on Lo - M2.
If no, I say worn brushes on the DC motor.
Let me describe the circuit for you:
Source voltage comes from the battery through a fuse to the blower switch (what you called the rheostat, though that is a misnomer). The blower switch directs the current through 5 possible circuits . the first four, Lo through M3, pass through the blower resistor. The Hi circuit bypasses the resistor. From the resistor ( or switch in case of Hi) voltage passes through the motor and on to ground.
To answer your question: the blower works fine on M3 and Hi.
Quote from: R-inge on February 03, 2007, 08:17:15 PM
Let me describe the circuit for you:
Source voltage comes from the battery through a fuse to the blower switch (what you called the rheostat, though that is a misnomer). The blower switch directs the current through 5 possible circuits . the first four, Lo through M3, pass through the blower resistor. The Hi circuit bypasses the resistor. From the resistor ( or switch in case of Hi) voltage passes through the motor and on to ground.
To answer your question: the blower works fine on M3 and Hi.
Resistor toast?
Quote from: Pancor on February 04, 2007, 10:17:16 AM
Resistor toast?
Yeah. I had never seen a resistor blow on only a few of its circuits; they usually drop all three or four. In this case only the first three speeds were lost. I figured it out by checking for source voltage at the resistor on each individual terminal, and found I got the same thing every time on each setting on each circuit, so it was obviously the resistor. Popped a new one in and voila! all five speeds.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 03, 2007, 06:41:48 PM
Did the blower on M3 and Hi correct at the correct, respective speeds?
If yes, I say broken rheostat on Lo - M2.
If no, I say worn brushes on the DC motor.
I think I was kinda close. In "rheostat" I meant that a portion of the variable resistance circuit of the blower motor control (variable resistence = variable voltage = variable speed for a DC motor) switch was was bad for Lo - M2. From your description of the resistor, the variable resistance nature was contained inside one single component.
I've got lots of these...
Vehicle: 2nd gen Camaro
Engine: 305 V8 w/ 2bbl carb
Tranmission: TH250 AT
Miles: ~ 130,000
Problem: Car runs fine under partial throttle, but when under heavy throttle, backfires through the carb. Further, upon returning to part-throttle driving, the car runs rough, and is prone to stalling. Waiting a bit of time either with the engine off or via part throttle driving, car returns to normal.
Hint: Not fuel system related, and not a broken valve spring.
Quote from: R-inge on February 04, 2007, 10:41:04 AM
Yeah.? I had never seen a resistor blow on only a few of its circuits; they usually drop all three or four.? In this case only the first three speeds were lost.? ?I figured it out by checking for source voltage at the resistor on each individual terminal, and found I got the same thing every time on each setting on each circuit, so it was obviously the resistor.? Popped a new one in and voila! all five speeds.
Resistors are funny-
There's an Army satellite comms system that uses a really big slow-blow resistor in it: it's about 3 inches long. When we test the system on the bench we'll sometimes defeat the "interlock" (switch that knows if the cover's off) by holding the switch down. If you accidentally let go of the switch it will burn through the resistor in a few seconds, but if you push the switch back down you can sometimes save it, but it will go faster the next time..
If it weren't such a pain in the butt to dissemble/solder that resistor back in, we'd blow them for fun- they start to smoke, then almost catch on fire, then finally POP!! and some sparks.. :devil:
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 01:45:56 PM
I think I was kinda close. In "rheostat" I meant that a portion of the variable resistance circuit of the blower motor control (variable resistence = variable voltage = variable speed for a DC motor) switch was was bad for Lo - M2. From your description of the resistor, the variable resistance nature was contained inside one single component.
Well...a rheostat is by definition a variable resistor, not a circuit that accomplishes the same, so by nature I could not accept that answer.? A rheostat is the dimmer for your dash lights, or your fuel guage sensor in the fuel tank.? You were on the right track.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 01:58:06 PM
I've got lots of these...
Vehicle: 2nd gen Camaro
Engine: 305 V8 w/ 2bbl carb
Tranmission: TH250 AT
Miles: ~ 130,000
Problem: Car runs fine under partial throttle, but when under heavy throttle, backfires through the carb. Further, upon returning to part-throttle driving, the car runs rough, and is prone to stalling. Waiting a bit of time either with the engine off or via part throttle driving, car returns to normal.
Hint: Not fuel system related, and not a broken valve spring.
Vacuum advance distributor?
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 01:58:06 PM
I've got lots of these...
Vehicle: 2nd gen Camaro
Engine: 305 V8 w/ 2bbl carb
Tranmission: TH250 AT
Miles: ~ 130,000
Problem: Car runs fine under partial throttle, but when under heavy throttle, backfires through the carb. Further, upon returning to part-throttle driving, the car runs rough, and is prone to stalling. Waiting a bit of time either with the engine off or via part throttle driving, car returns to normal.
Hint: Not fuel system related, and not a broken valve spring.
Spark plugs might be fouling due to improper gap, heat range too cold, or just plain weak ignition, possibly a bad ignition coil. Timing might be off due to a stretched out timing chain, which would explain the backfiring more.
Everthing to do with vacuum, timing and ignition proved to be in working order.
Hint: think a bit about the hint regarding the valve spring. It behaved similar to a busted valve spring, but that wasn't it.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 03:37:30 PM
Everthing to do with vacuum, timing and ignition proved to be in working order.
Hint: think a bit about the hint regarding the valve spring. It behaved similar to a busted valve spring, but that wasn't it.
With a hint like that, the obvious answer would be a
weak valvespring, but I don't suppose you'd make it that easy. Are the valves just burned up? I don't think that would explain how it would gradually smooth out under light throttle though... maybe the hydraulic lifters are leaking?
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 03:37:30 PM
Everthing to do with vacuum, timing and ignition proved to be in working order.
Hint: think a bit about the hint regarding the valve spring. It behaved similar to a busted valve spring, but that wasn't it.
I'm not so good with driveability. Got me here. :huh:
Quote from: NACar on February 04, 2007, 04:21:13 PM
With a hint like that, the obvious answer would be a weak valvespring, but I don't suppose you'd make it that easy. Are the valves just burned up? I don't think that would explain how it would gradually smooth out under light throttle though... maybe the hydraulic lifters are leaking?
Close. It was a completely dead (i.e., completely flat) cam lobe.
I didn't diagnose it myself. Someone I knew who had infinitely more automotive knowledge knew exactly what it was without turning a wrench or even popping the hood.
Of course I replaced it with a cam befitting a high compression, 4bbl, 350+ V8, which promptly ruined any and all driveability, and damaged pistons in the process (didn't replace the springs).
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 04:49:37 PM
Close. It was a completely dead (i.e., completely flat) cam lobe.
I didn't diagnose it myself. Someone I knew who had infinitely more automotive knowledge knew exactly what it was without turning a wrench or even popping the hood.
Of course I replaced it with a cam befitting a high compression, 4bbl, 350+ V8, which promptly ruined any and all driveability, and damaged pistons in the process (didn't replace the springs).
I see... :lol:
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 04:49:37 PM
Of course I replaced it with a cam befitting a high compression, 4bbl, 350+ V8, which promptly ruined any and all driveability, and damaged pistons in the process (didn't replace the springs).
Doh!
How did the cam get damaged???
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 04, 2007, 07:23:00 PM
Doh!
How did the cam get damaged???
Just wear. Back in those days they used flat-tappet lifter cams. The lifter-to-cam interface was simply flat steel. Nowadays, they use roller cams; the lifter-to-cam interface is literally a roller.
I've replaced a number of high-mileage flat-tappet cams and they all wear substantially. I'd never seen one that had a completely flat lobe. Could've been a bad heat treat or something.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 07:55:34 PM
Just wear. Back in those days they used flat-tappet lifter cams. The lifter-to-cam interface was simply flat steel. Nowadays, they use roller cams; the lifter-to-cam interface is literally a roller.
I've replaced a number of high-mileage flat-tappet cams and they all wear substantially. I'd never seen one that had a completely flat lobe. Could've been a bad heat treat or something.
Flat tappets are still very common, but I think maybe they have a bit more of a convex shape to them...will have to look that up.
Quote from: R-inge on February 04, 2007, 09:09:37 PM
Flat tappets are still very common, but I think maybe they have a bit more of a convex shape to them...will have to look that up.?
That's a good point. I meant for today's pushrod V8 engines; especially owing to their much stiffer valve springs relative to OHC engines.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 04, 2007, 09:23:03 PM
That's a good point. I meant for today's pushrod V8 engines; especially owing to their much stiffer valve springs relative to OHC engines.
I guess that's true. I think the OHV v-6 engines I have seen lately use a hydraulic flat-tapped lifter, which is much easier on the cam.
Vehicle: 94 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0 V-6 (6G72)
Tranmission: 5spd manual
Miles: ~ 145k
The problem: It started with an intermittent no crank condition, primarily when the engine was warm (all the other accessories and electronics worked though).
Now when the key is turned to "ON", the idiot lights come on very dim, the seatbelt chime sounds like it's about to die, the fuel pump does not come on, and the radio only comes on after a few seconds. Headlights still work like normal. When turned to "START", the dash lights dim, but starter does not crank.
Quote from: NACar on February 06, 2007, 06:23:40 PM
Vehicle: 94 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0 V-6 (6G72)
Tranmission: 5spd manual
Miles: ~ 145k
The problem: It started with an intermittent no crank condition, primarily when the engine was warm (all the other accessories and electronics worked though).
Now when the key is turned to "ON", the idiot lights come on very dim, the seatbelt chime sounds like it's about to die, the fuel pump does not come on, and the radio only comes on after a few seconds. Headlights still work like normal. When turned to "START", the dash lights dim, but starter does not crank.
I'd start by chasing grounds.
Quote from: NACar on February 06, 2007, 06:23:40 PM
Vehicle: 94 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0 V-6 (6G72)
Tranmission: 5spd manual
Miles: ~ 145k
The problem: It started with an intermittent no crank condition, primarily when the engine was warm (all the other accessories and electronics worked though).
Now when the key is turned to "ON", the idiot lights come on very dim, the seatbelt chime sounds like it's about to die, the fuel pump does not come on, and the radio only comes on after a few seconds. Headlights still work like normal. When turned to "START", the dash lights dim, but starter does not crank.
Is this one you have already solved, or one you want us to solve for you?
Sounds like an odd condition, the fact that it doesn't like to start after
warming up. I would start with the basics: battery, starting, and charging system tests. Where those sound?
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on February 06, 2007, 06:42:35 PM
I'd start by chasing grounds.
Good point, something Nissan always had me do first was to loosen and retighten the ground for whatever circuit I was diagnosing.
Quote from: NACar on February 06, 2007, 06:23:40 PM
Vehicle: 94 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0 V-6 (6G72)
Tranmission: 5spd manual
Miles: ~ 145k
The problem: It started with an intermittent no crank condition, primarily when the engine was warm (all the other accessories and electronics worked though).
Now when the key is turned to "ON", the idiot lights come on very dim, the seatbelt chime sounds like it's about to die, the fuel pump does not come on, and the radio only comes on after a few seconds. Headlights still work like normal. When turned to "START", the dash lights dim, but starter does not crank.
To me it sounds as if there's a high impedence connection somewhere. I don't know if those cars have a remote starter selonoid, or if it's on the starter. I'd check this device where ever it may exist. Contacts or connections could be worn causing this condition.
Quote from: R-inge on February 06, 2007, 08:35:15 PM
Is this one you have already solved, or one you want us to solve for you?
Sounds like an odd condition, the fact that it doesn't like to start after warming up.? ?I would start with the basics: battery, starting, and charging system tests.? Where those sound?
This is something that I'm not sure about, but I think I know what it is.
Battery is charged, altenator works fine, headlights are bright and accessories that are not run through the ignition switch work normally. Which I guess gives away the answer I was thinking of... I think it's a bad ignition switch.
Anyway, it will be easier to pay $30 and replace the ignition switch than to start chasing grounds.
Quote from: NACar on February 06, 2007, 06:23:40 PM
Vehicle: 94 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0 V-6 (6G72)
Tranmission: 5spd manual
Miles: ~ 145k
The problem: It started with an intermittent no crank condition, primarily when the engine was warm (all the other accessories and electronics worked though).
Now when the key is turned to "ON", the idiot lights come on very dim, the seatbelt chime sounds like it's about to die, the fuel pump does not come on, and the radio only comes on after a few seconds. Headlights still work like normal. When turned to "START", the dash lights dim, but starter does not crank.
I had a Taurus (not the SHO) that sounded about the same but intermittent ANYTHING working- turned out to be the battery-starter cable was corroded inside. (couldnt see it from outside.)
Yup, the circuit can seem sound but still not be able to carry the current necessary to operate the load.
Ok, so I'll try new battery cables, and if that's not it, then a new ignition switch, and if that's not it, check more grounds. Cool. :ohyeah:
Quote from: NACar on February 07, 2007, 02:00:55 PM
Ok, so I'll try new battery cables, and if that's not it, then a new ignition switch, and if that's not it, check more grounds. Cool.? :ohyeah:
Or just get a $10 multimeter- check the resistance on the cables, then as you turn the switch check for 'continuity' (will tell you if current is going down the right wires when you turn the key). And you'd use it to check grounds anyways...
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 07, 2007, 02:14:19 PM
Or just get a $10 multimeter- check the resistance on the cables, then as you turn the switch check for 'continuity' (will tell you if current is going down the right wires when you turn the key).? And you'd use it to check grounds anyways...
Better yet check voltage at the starter with the key set to "start". It should be the same as battery voltage. If not, then you have a problem with either that cable or with the starter.
That's a good idea, sometimes I don't think of these things. ;)
I almost bought a multimeter about a month ago, but instead I just got a simple circuit tester.
Me and electricity don't always get along... I've been electrocuted a couple of times. :mask:
Quote from: NACar on February 07, 2007, 02:21:54 PM
I've been electrocuted a couple of times.? :mask:
No, you were electrically shocked a couple times. Had you been electrocuted once, you'd never be electrocuted again, if you catch my drift.
Quote from: NACar on February 07, 2007, 02:21:54 PM
That's a good idea, sometimes I don't think of these things. ;)
I almost bought a multimeter about a month ago, but instead I just got a simple circuit tester.
Me and electricity don't always get along... I've been electrocuted a couple of times.? :mask:
I'm a mechanic, I am payed to know these things. Don't sweat not knowing about it yet, there are many things that I still don't know about or understand about cars.
Quote from: NACar on February 07, 2007, 02:21:54 PM
That's a good idea, sometimes I don't think of these things. ;)
I almost bought a multimeter about a month ago, but instead I just got a simple circuit tester.
Me and electricity don't always get along... I've been electrocuted a couple of times. :mask:
Multimeters are your friends. I've got two. :)
I've got a potential entry....something we're working on in the dealership. The fix that has been diagnosed....I don't believe is the problem, but I'm just a service advisor. We'll see.
Quote from: JWC on February 07, 2007, 04:04:18 PM
I've got a potential entry....something we're working on in the dealership.? The fix that has been diagnosed....I don't believe is the problem, but I'm just a service advisor.? We'll see.
Always up for a challenge! :ohyeah:
2000 Jaguar S
Clunking noise from front end over uneven roadway. Sounds like "front end is coming apart". Happens at any speed and is worse as road surface worsens.
Questions?
I think the front end is coming apart.
Quote from: Raza on February 08, 2007, 05:51:13 PM
I think the front end is coming apart.
Brilliant deduction, Holmes.
We repaired it today. Customer got screwed.
Any guesses as to what the culprit was?
Quote from: JWC on February 08, 2007, 05:26:50 PM
2000 Jaguar S
Clunking noise from front end over uneven roadway.? Sounds like "front end is coming apart".? Happens at any speed and is worse as road surface worsens.
Questions?
Are the sway bar links and bushings good?
Quote from: R-inge on February 08, 2007, 06:34:16 PM
Are the sway bar links and bushings good?
You know Ringe, it took $500.00 dollars before anyone, save myself, asked that question. You hit it.
Service manager takes the Jag for a road test. Advises customer that the front struts are causing the noise. Customer states he'll order the struts from Jag and have us install them. Now, I was not there the day all this happened.
Customer gets his struts and we pick up the car. I take one look at the RO and realize this isn't right. This Jag only has 59,000 miles on it. By the time I get a chance to check it out, it is too late, one side has already been installed. I go over to the tech and ask...do you think this is going to fix the car? No, he says, but I was told to put these on, so I'm putting them on. I ask, what does it sound like to you, sway bar links? Yep, tech says, but no one asked me. After the struts are installed, the tech hands me the RO and the keys. I asked if it fixed it. Answer: Nope.
Service manager takes it for a drive. Says its a lot better, which I knew he was going to say, because whenever someone misdiagnoses(sp?) a car, the parts installed that don't fix it, always make the problem better.
He pulls it onto the alignment rack. I give it about ten minutes and "happen" to pass by. Sway bar end links are about to fall off. I walk away. Whatever happens next, I don't want to be a part of it. All I can say is, it left without the noise.
Quote from: JWC on February 08, 2007, 06:48:50 PM
You know Ringe, it took $500.00 dollars before anyone, save myself, asked that question.? You hit it.
Service manager takes the Jag for a road test.? Advises customer that the front struts are causing the noise.? Customer states he'll order the struts from Jag and have us install them.? ?Now, I was not there the day all this happened.
Customer gets his struts and we pick up the car.? I take one look at the RO and realize this isn't right.? This Jag only has 59,000 miles on it.? By the time I get a chance to check it out, it is too late, one side has already been installed.? I go over to the tech and ask...do you think this is going to fix the car?? No, he says, but I was told to put these on, so I'm putting them on.? ?I ask, what does it sound like to you, sway bar links?? Yep, tech says, but no one asked me.? After the struts are installed, the tech hands me the RO and the keys.? I asked if it fixed it. Answer:? Nope.
Service manager takes it for a drive.? Says its a lot better, which I knew he was going to say, because whenever someone misdiagnoses(sp?) a car, the parts installed that don't fix it, always make the problem better.
He pulls it onto the alignment rack. I give it about ten minutes and "happen" to pass by.? Sway bar end links are about to fall off.? ?I walk away. Whatever happens next, I don't want to be a part of it.? All I can say is, it left without the noise.
Wow. I don't want to seem arrogant, but that is so elementary it isn't even funny. It is always the first thing I check when diagnosing front end noise, particularly over uneven surfaces.
Quote from: R-inge on February 08, 2007, 07:03:17 PM
Wow. I don't want to seem arrogant, but that is so elementary it isn't even funny. It is always the first thing I check when diagnosing front end noise, particularly over uneven surfaces.
Elementary isn't even the word for it. I was ashamed to be at the dealership today. I just wanted to go home.
Really, who the hell believes that any car needs struts at 59,000 miles? Especially a seasoned veteran of a service department.
Problem is, this is happening a lot lately. A few months ago, a tech walked up to me with a 600.00 diag for a flashing airbag light. Scan tests indicated a module failure. Pinpoint tests were inconclusive. I told him to recheck it, because I drove the Windstar when it came it and the horn wouldn't blow...classic clockspring failure. Scan test shows code for driver's airbag, circuit problem, no horn. The tech reluctantly walked away to recheck it. He came back, contact ring is ok, it is the module...and was I happy now for wasting his time.
Sold the repair to the customer, ordered part for next day. Next day, part arrives, gets installed...and you guessed it...didn't fix it. Hour later, tech comes back and says the clockspring is shorted out. Must have been shorted out by the module going out. Bull, f-ing, shit. I've no rookie and I've seen this before and a clockspring fixes it every friggin' time. I'm told to call and sell the clockspring, but we'll help with the labor. You know how hard it is to call someone and AVOID the truth. I looked at the manager and told him flat out, if this guy asks, I'm not lying. He got pissed and made the call instead.
Same story with a F150 this week, same scenario, same problem, same tech, same result.
And you can tell from my post yesterday, that I knew this wasn't going to fix it. I'm still pissed.
The only good thing that happened today was a customer who came in and wanted plugs replaced in his 2003 F150 5.4L. I was "selling" it, when he mentioned that it had the original plugs and over 130,000 miles on it. I know from experience that the thread pull with the plugs on that engine (4.6 also) even at the recommended interval of 105,000. My speech to him:
You need to be aware, that if the threads come out with the plug, the only option is to pull the head for repair, especially if it is on the right side. So, before we do this, think about it first. Instead of being a three hundred dollar tune-up, it can turn into a one thousand dollar repair.
He thought about it and since the engine is running fine, hasn't lost power and hasn't dropped gas mileage he'll wait until it really needs plugs or he trades it.
I told him that may be a good idea, that I want his business, but I don't want to bring the truck in knowing that something like that is a potential problem.
He made my day when he said..."I can go anywhere and get lied to, but here, I know you always tell me the truth".
The service manager wasn't happy with me, but too bad.
Kudos for being truthful with the customers. I get so pissed when I overhear one of my advisors feeding a customer a load of bull when all they need to do is tell them my findings. When I tell the advisor a car needs a water pump the guy goes into a long spiel about how the paper gasket sometimes fails due to blah blah blah etc. when he could just say, well sir we found your leak, it's the water pump. That is a poor example, but basically I wish we had more straight talk in the industry, and I think you deserve a pat on the back rather than a scolding from your service manager.
Also, it sounds like that tech is a lazy diagnostic technician and should go back to brake jobs.
They are dispatching work to him that he can't do. In a way, I don't think it is his fault, but I've disagreed with him before about every Explorer and F150 that has over 60k miles and needs an alignment also needing upper and lower ball joints. If he or the SM see any movement at all, no matter how slight, they recommend ball joints. Even Ford specs show that some play is OK. According to the SM and the tech, no play is allowed.
Hopefully, by August, I'll be out of there. I said that last year too and it didn't work out.
Quote from: JWC on February 08, 2007, 07:47:35 PM
They are dispatching work to him that he can't do. In a way, I don't think it is his fault, but I've disagreed with him before about every Explorer and F150 that has over 60k miles and needs an alignment also needing upper and lower ball joints.? If he or the SM see any movement at all, no matter how slight, they recommend ball joints.? Even Ford specs show that some play is OK.? According to the SM and the tech, no play is allowed.?
Hopefully, by August, I'll be out of there.? I said that last year too and it didn't work out.
Oh. My. God. :(
Did he go to Retard Tech?? I understand being dispatched work he can't perform, it happens to me frequently because I am in that stage with around 2yrs real world experience that I can handle some things, but others are over my head.? But stuff like that is either dishonest or completely retarded.
It's basically dishonest.
Slightly off topic, but related in a way to that Jags front end noise.
Vehicle: My dads 2005 Toyota Highlander V6 Limited, etc...
Problem: Clunk from the right rear.
I'll just spill it, because its not that interesting. Keep in mind, everything under warranty, so..
Anyways, dealer of course instantly replaces the right rear strut. Of course the noise is still there.
Now I give it a listen. Sound is comming from under the rear seat, right about from where one of the trailing links attaches to the body. Service advisor doesn't appear to give it any thought, just orders another link. goes ahead and orders another link just based on what I said. You guessed it, problem still there.
This time I actually crawl underneath it in the parking lot and put my hand on the link while my dad rocks the thing. It was so obvious when I looked under it wasn't even funny. There was some very obvious play on the end where it attached to the knuckle. Keep in mind, this is a rigid link, the bushing is in the knuckle on that end.
Long story short, the bushing in the knuckle was shot. The best part? Its not independently replaceable, they had to replace the whole knuckle.
Not to toot my own horn, but had I not finally crawled underneath the damn thing, they probably would have eventually replaced the whole rear end.
We went to the ford place with our 1995 Ford Windstar. Actually my brother took it there because a part was making a noise. It was under warranty when they checked it. A part needed tightening so they charged for labor just because the part needing tightening. Dad no longer buy extended from anyone especially Ford. He only buys ford. But he thinks the service department is there to screw you. That was the one in Moncks Corner.
Quote from: sparkplug on February 08, 2007, 09:17:46 PM
But he thinks the service department is there to screw you.
They're either:
-trying to make money (at customer's expense)
-too lazy to actually use their brains and figure out what needs replaced (and trying to make money (at customer's expense))
-no brains so can't figure out what needs replaced (and trying to make money (at customer's expense))
-not experienced enough to figure out problem and more experienced techs won't help out (and trying to make money (at customer's expense)
Sense a pattern? See JWC's posts. He's stuck at a dealership.
Okay, here's one.
2000 Honda Civic
1.6L non VTEC
116K miles
When I first start the car in the morning, there is this weird, quasi squealing noise. It's not a belt, they have less than 10k miles on them. It is only present between 1700 and 2100 or so rpms, and goes away totally when the car warms up. It's temperature related as well, the car doesn't do this when the air tempereature is warm (above 40?F). Drivability is unaffected, the car doesn't miss or stumble or anything like that.
Any thoughts? I'm perplexed.
Don't know Honda's set up, but on a Ford, IAC valves will "moan" when not opening up completely, usually a prelude (Honda pun not intended) to eventual IAC problems.
Cam synchro shafts will also.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 10, 2007, 09:32:06 AM
Okay, here's one.
2000 Honda Civic
1.6L non VTEC
116K miles
When I first start the car in the morning, there is this weird, quasi squealing noise.? It's not a belt, they have less than 10k miles on them.? It is only present between 1700 and 2100 or so rpms, and goes away totally when the car warms up.? It's temperature related as well, the car doesn't do this when the air tempereature is warm (above 40?F).? Drivability is unaffected, the car doesn't miss or stumble or anything like that.
Any thoughts?? I'm perplexed.
could be way off but,
my 87 CRX had a sensor and valve that when the engine was cold pulled air from a separate hose (near the engine) than after the car had warmed up. at least you know it's totally temperature related- check the auto-choke?
For what it's worth I work for one of the top dealerships in the country, voted so by Time Magazine several years ago, and we have improved since then. The company didn't get there by scamming customers and performing poor work or diagnostic practices. There is a real sense of pride that we share in our company and our service, and it is because we strive to have the customer leave satisfied. Do we have issues? Sure, like I mentioned I still have a hard time with some service advisors because they go to far in dumbing down the explanations to the point of sometimes making stuff up to placate the customer, however we are not out to screw people, simply to make sure they want to bring their car to us to be fixed, and not the other guy down the road. Ultimately it is a balancing act between the game of numbers and fair treatment of customers.
My point basically is please don't group all dealerships in the "Stealership" bracket like I myself used to do before I worked for two of them.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 10, 2007, 09:32:06 AM
Okay, here's one.
2000 Honda Civic
1.6L non VTEC
116K miles
When I first start the car in the morning, there is this weird, quasi squealing noise.? It's not a belt, they have less than 10k miles on them.? It is only present between 1700 and 2100 or so rpms, and goes away totally when the car warms up.? It's temperature related as well, the car doesn't do this when the air tempereature is warm (above 40?F).? Drivability is unaffected, the car doesn't miss or stumble or anything like that.
Any thoughts?? I'm perplexed.
Manual transmission or auto?
Quote from: R-inge on February 10, 2007, 06:49:27 PM
My point basically is please don't group all dealerships in the "Stealership" bracket like I myself used to do before I worked for two of them.
For every one like yours there are 20 that aren't. :(
Sometimes they aren't out to steal but just aren't proficient at troubleshooting. Unfortunately that comes with experience and I'm sure turnover is pretty high some places...
Quote from: R-inge on February 10, 2007, 06:50:50 PM
Manual transmission or auto?
It's a manual transmission.
Quote from: R-inge on February 10, 2007, 06:50:50 PM
Manual transmission or auto?
Manual.
EDIT: Looks like Adam already got to this.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 11, 2007, 06:24:24 PM
It's a manual transmission.
Could be the pilot bushing in the front of the transmission.
Quote from: R-inge on February 11, 2007, 08:02:11 PM
Could be the pilot bushing in the front of the transmission.
Is this possible; because this noise goes away when the vehicle is warmed up, and makes said noise regardless of being in motion or not? It makes it even if the clutch is in or out, and if the car is in neutral as well.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 11, 2007, 08:40:42 PM
Is this possible; because this noise goes away when the vehicle is warmed up, and makes said noise regardless of being in motion or not?? It makes it even if the clutch is in or out, and if the car is in neutral as well.
Oh, then it is less likely the pilot bushing.
Got one for you:
Thursday, my father's F-150 4X4 SuperCrew 5.4 V8 suddenly lost most of it's braking power. It would barely stop. Smoke come into the driver side. What happened?
Bogus Question: What was dad drinking?
Brake booster asploded, loosing all the vacuum so it lost all the stopping power? :huh:
Quote from: Raghavan on February 12, 2007, 09:18:11 PM
Brake booster asploded, loosing all the vacuum so it lost all the stopping power? :huh:
Close, very close, very very very very very very close. I'll tell you anyway since you're so close. Evidently the vacuum hose came off due to the truck backfiring. For winning you get an expense paid trip to.. Second thought I'll just say good job. Congratulations, your pretty smart.
Quote from: sparkplug on February 12, 2007, 09:28:10 PM
Close, very close, very very very very very very close. I'll tell you anyway since you're so close. Evidently the vacuum hose came off due to the truck backfiring. For winning you get an expense paid trip to.. Second thought I'll just say good job. Congratulations, your pretty smart.
:praise:
What did your dad think it was?
Quote from: Raghavan on February 12, 2007, 11:10:36 PM
:praise:
What did your dad think it was?
A fuse or something like that. He saw some smoke so he thought it was electrical. But he didn't realize the vacuum hose popped off.
Here is a fun one.
2004 Cadillac SRX. Performed four wheel brake job, and after lowering vehicle to the ground had a no-crank/no-start condition. Stereo and power windows all work fine, key is stuck in ignition and theft deterrent light is illuminated.
Brake line fitting not tight after bleeding?
Quote from: The Pirate on February 14, 2007, 08:32:09 PM
Brake line fitting not tight after bleeding?
How would that affect it not starting?
Quote from: Raghavan on February 14, 2007, 08:41:56 PM
How would that affect it not starting?
I don't know how, but I was doing a brake job on a buddy's truck, and it wouldn't start until the fittings were tightened.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 14, 2007, 09:00:32 PM
I don't know how, but I was doing a brake job on a buddy's truck, and it wouldn't start until the fittings were tightened.
Really? Wow.
Keep trying, I will post answer tomorrow.
My guess is that something is wrong.
It not in Park or Neutral?
Quote from: R-inge on February 14, 2007, 07:23:42 PM
Here is a fun one.
2004 Cadillac SRX.? Performed four wheel brake job, and after lowering vehicle to the ground had a no-crank/no-start condition.? Stereo and power windows all work fine, key is stuck in ignition and? theft deterrent light is illuminated.
Immobilization system?
Quote from: The Pirate on February 14, 2007, 09:00:32 PM
I don't know how, but I was doing a brake job on a buddy's truck, and it wouldn't start until the fittings were tightened.
For some reason I don't believe that. What kind of truck?
Quote from: R-inge on February 14, 2007, 07:23:42 PM
Here is a fun one.
2004 Cadillac SRX.? Performed four wheel brake job, and after lowering vehicle to the ground had a no-crank/no-start condition.? Stereo and power windows all work fine, key is stuck in ignition and? theft deterrent light is illuminated.
In muscleing the rotors and tires on and off the front, my guess is that the steering column become locked.
I've had a similar condition in a Tacoma. You can tug on the steering wheel a bit and it's in free play. A little too much and the steering wheel locks, and the key is stuck (can't remove if it was on ACC, and won't start the car). Only by massively reefing the steering wheel left or right while jiggling the key will the steering wheel release.
Quote from: Pancor on February 15, 2007, 08:33:54 AM
Immobilization system?
You are very close.
The ignition switch randomly crapped the bed while I had the vehicle. Seems to be a common issue because the local Caddy dealer had multiple switches in stock. The vehicle thought that it was being robbed, so it wouldn't do anything.
Here's another.
1980s Dodge Ramcharger (again). 318 2bbl V8. 727 AT. 140,000 miles.
Installed Edelbrock Performer cam/lifters/valve springs and 1-5/8" headers.
Much to my dismay, the vehicle was more gutless than with the stock cam, and would top out at about 75 mph.
Ignition, fuel system, and vacuum tested out okay.
Quote from: Pancor on February 15, 2007, 08:34:34 AM
For some reason I don't believe that. What kind of truck?
It was a '98 Dodge Dakota. I have no explanation for why this happened, but with the brake lines unattached, and bleeder valves out, it wouldn't start.
Next day, when everything was back together, it did start.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 15, 2007, 09:09:37 AM
Here's another.
1980s Dodge Ramcharger (again). 318 2bbl V8. 727 AT. 140,000 miles.
Installed Edelbrock Performer cam/lifters/valve springs and 1-5/8" headers.
Much to my dismay, the vehicle was more gutless than with the stock cam, and would top out at about 75 mph.
Ignition, fuel system, and vacuum tested out okay.
Fail to degree the cam properly?
Quote from: R-inge on February 15, 2007, 02:50:14 PM
Fail to degree the cam properly?
Actually, no. This was bit of a trick question.
Nothing was wrong with the parts or the installation, it was the wrong application for this camshaft. By the time it was coming into its powerband, there simply wasn't enough airflow from the stock 2bbl carb and 2bbl heads to feed it.
A couple of months later I bolted on an Edelbrock 4bbl carb, Performer 4bbl manifold, 360 swirl port (fuel injection) heads, electic fans and MSD ignition. That fixed it.
Cool. I wish I knew more about that stuff.
Quote from: R-inge on February 15, 2007, 03:08:55 PM
Cool.? I wish I knew more about that stuff.
I really don't know that much, but what I do know, cost a
bundle of time and money to attain.
Quote from: GoCougs on February 16, 2007, 10:43:08 AM
I really don't know that much, but what I do know, cost a bundle of time and money to attain.
hehe, yeah I follow your meaning. :lol:
Quote from: R-inge on February 16, 2007, 06:37:22 PM
hehe, yeah I follow your meaning. :lol:
I was really into it for a time, and then it became all-consuming as I was working on my daily drivers. Once I entered the working world, it was just too stressful. Sometimes I'd get into something, not quite know what I was doing, and then it'd all too often it'd be 9pm, the car wasn't running, and I had to be up at 6am the next morning to go to work.
I'm now the polar opposite in that I don't even change my own oil or wash my car; there's a touch-less car wash right next to the lube shop.
I'm resurrecting this thread...for the following reason:
Customer calls and says their new Explorer won't start, it won't even crank. Warning lights come on when they turn the key, but nothing else happens. Also, the key is stuck in the ignition.
Since no wrecker driver was available and the customer was stuck at a elementary school, I decided to drive down to the school and see what I could do. Half way there, it occurred me what the problem was.
Any guesses as to what the problem was and how I repaired it?
Car wasn't in Park or Neutral?
You gave the driver a smack up side the head and said smarten up?
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on April 17, 2007, 09:23:51 PM
Car wasn't in Park or Neutral?
You gave the driver a smack up side the head and said smarten up?
My guess as well.
Our Accord does that though. Key gets stuck in the ignition. You have to wiggle the gear selector a couple of times before you can get the key out.
Quote from: VTEC_Inside on April 17, 2007, 09:23:51 PM
Car wasn't in Park or Neutral?
You gave the driver a smack up side the head and said smarten up?
Give the guy a cookie.
When I arrived, she started in about it being a new car etc. I know her pretty well, so I sat in the driver's seat, saw the indicator was on "D" and said...lesson one...always move this thing here (pointing at lever) to the "park" position when you get out. I shifted it into park and started it up. She said, "oh my god, don't tell my husband".
HAHHAHA
I did that once- I was leaving town in my dad's Taurus wagon and stopped because the weather was bad and I had to wipe the foot of snow off all the side windows. It wouldnt start so I called my dad and he drove the 10miles to come help and I figured it out right before he got there...
(And don't tell anyone but this is easy to do in Humvees too- happens all the time, including to me...)
Same thing happened last week in my wife's Focus, but the solution was not as quick and easy...any guesses? ;)
The engine had fallen out?
Quote from: R-inge on April 18, 2007, 11:42:22 AM
Same thing happened last week in my wife's Focus, but the solution was not as quick and easy...any guesses? ;)
shifter broke while putting it into park?
:lol:
It wasn't as catastrophic, but it did require the use of a hammer.
Most of the Focus problems I see are stuck ignition lock cylinders.
Quote from: JWC on April 18, 2007, 03:30:32 PM
Most of the Focus problems I see are stuck ignition lock cylinders.
You got it. :ohyeah:
Quote from: R-inge on April 18, 2007, 10:19:29 PM
You got it. :ohyeah:
not fair, he works(used to?) for a ford dealer. :lol:
Works for a Ford dealer...but still only a guess.
I new what it was right away, but when I was looking for instructions oh how-to on NoData, I found that Ford actually has a service bulletin on the subject...and, you guessed it, they recommend a new lock cylinder.
I'm good. :praise:
okay, here's something.
vehicle: 135cc scooter
problem: starter keeps cranking even when the key is in the off position. i had the starter relay replaced but it still comes back.
Quote from: heelntoe on April 19, 2007, 10:44:24 AM
okay, here's something.
vehicle: 135cc scooter
problem: starter keeps cranking even when the key is in the off position. i had the starter relay replaced but it still comes back.
The ignition switch is grounding out??
Starter solenoid sticks on?
it's not the solenoid. i had the starter removed and cleaned of all the carbon deposits and such. it might be the switch though, as it is, the switch only works if i hold it in a certain position. thanks guys.
Here is one from today:
2002 F150 AM/FM CD/Casette combo
Fender mount antenna
Used trade-in
Tech comes up and says that the radio will not seek stations...with the seek function it can only find and hold two. If he maually runs through the stations, the radio appears to work and receive signals just fine.
Guess as to the cause?
Quote from: JWC on April 20, 2007, 08:33:45 PM
Here is one from today:
2002 F150? AM/FM CD/Casette combo
Fender mount antenna
Used trade-in
Tech comes up and says that the radio will not seek stations...with the seek function it can only find and hold two.? If he maually runs through the stations,? the radio appears to work and receive signals just fine.
Guess as to the cause?
GUESSES ONLY:
-You're not getting good enough signal for the radio to lock on. Good enough to listen to the stations, but not strong enough for the "seek" to find them.
SO
-check antenna isn't broken inside (take it off, check continuity??)
-check that all is plugged in ok, that antenna wiring isn't busted
-or replace head unit, check if it works then.
Well, you covered all the bases, there.
Tech's diagnosis, because it received stations OK, but just didn't scan was the head unit. Ordering a replacement was 600.00 from Ford.
My suggestion, check the antenna coax and make sure it was plugged in completely. Reasoning behind that thought was that it was a trade-in and may not have had the factory radio at one time.
The verdict...
The coax cable had been pulled loose under the dash. There was enough of a lead for the radio to receive stations, but on seek, wasn't picking up enough of the signal to stop for the seek function to hold a station.
Okay, try this:
Starter button:
One prod and the engine kicks and then dies. The engine then starts on the second prod. Was the button just not pressed hard enough, or is there a problem with the starter button?
What kind of car?
i thought you were supposed to hold the button like you hold the key.
Quote from: heelntoe on April 21, 2007, 10:30:28 AM
i thought you were supposed to hold the button like you hold the key.
Generally you do. Crank sensors have to pick up the signal before the engine can start.
This is why I asked what kind of car. Hitting the button once may not be enough time for engine sensors to register to the pcm and allow it to start.
Quote from: JWC on April 21, 2007, 09:35:31 AM
Well, you covered all the bases, there.?
Tech's diagnosis, because it received stations OK, but just didn't scan was the head unit.? Ordering a replacement was 600.00 from Ford.
My suggestion, check the antenna coax and make sure it was plugged in completely.? Reasoning behind that thought was that it was a trade-in and may not have had the factory radio at one time.
The verdict...
The coax cable had been pulled loose under the dash.? There was enough of a lead for the radio to receive stations, but on seek, wasn't picking up enough of the signal to stop for the seek function to hold a station.
LOL
It had to be SOMETHING. ;)
I was still in training at Fort Gordon in 2001 when we (and the instructors!) spent HOURS trying to figure out why we could't get a radio link to work. 40watt radios, about 100yards apart. Basically we could point the dishes (look like large directtv dishes) AWAY from each other and we should have been able to lock up the modems, but :huh:
I was just sitting outside to get a break and was staring at one of the dishes, I followed the cable down and realized it wasn't plugged in to the radio... :banghead:
--------------------------------------------------------------
Oftentimes radios can get a partial signal even if things aren't connected all the way-
Quote from: Raza ?link=topic=7526.msg424272#msg424272 date=1177169900
Okay, try this:
Starter button:
One prod and the engine kicks and then dies.? The engine then starts on the second prod.? Was the button just not pressed hard enough, or is there a problem with the starter button?
IS the button supposed to be held?
If so then just hold it longer next time. :devil: ;)
If not, then there could be any combination of loose wiring to the computer, starter, etc...
Sensors could be bad, etc...
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 22, 2007, 11:23:53 AM
IS the button supposed to be held?
If so then just hold it longer next time. :devil: ;)
If not, then there could be any combination of loose wiring to the computer, starter, etc...
Sensors could be bad, etc...
I don't know. Not my car!
There's this handy little tome in your friend's glovebox called a, "Owner's Manual."
I don't figure most people have heard of this mysterious book, but if you can locate it is filled with everything you will every have to know about the proper operation of a vehicle's many systems. ;)
Quote from: R-inge on April 23, 2007, 03:38:37 PM
There's this handy little tome in your friend's glovebox called a, "Owner's Manual."
I don't figure most people have heard of this mysterious book, but if you can locate it is filled with everything you will every have to know about the proper operation of a vehicle's many systems. ;)
Not my friend's car either. I was just parked next to it one night and I heard it.
Quote from: Raza ?link=topic=7526.msg426469#msg426469 date=1177367057
Not my friend's car either.? I was just parked next to it one night and I heard it.
Well what the hell...
nevermind. :banghead:
Quote from: Raza ?link=topic=7526.msg426469#msg426469 date=1177367057
Not my friend's car either.? I was just parked next to it one night and I heard it.
LOL
So let's troubleshoot the older car that went driving past me sounding all funky. I think it was a Pontiac. Didn't sound right.
Any ideas??
:lol: :rolleyes: :lol: :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :devil: :rolleyes: :lol: :tounge:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 23, 2007, 06:27:19 PM
LOL
So let's troubleshoot the older car that went driving past me sounding all funky.? I think it was a Pontiac.? Didn't sound right.
Any ideas??
:lol:? ?:rolleyes:? ?:lol:? ?:rolleyes:? ?:lol:? ?:lol:? ?:devil:? ?:rolleyes:? ?:lol:? :tounge:
Yeah, it's a Pontiac. They're all complete rubbish. (GTO excepted).
Quote from: R-inge on April 23, 2007, 06:34:23 PM
Yeah, it's a Pontiac.? They're all complete rubbish.? (GTO excepted).
I would have argued with you because my in-laws had a (early 90s/ late 80s?) Grand Am they drove past 300k miles without a single breakdown. (Well, actually my wife fried the computer because she fell asleep as a passnger with her foot on the cigarette lighter and it shorted. but that was the ONLY time it had anything other than routine maintenance.)
BUT
Their Asstek has had problems since they bought it, and the Grand Am they bought a few years ago has also had issues on a regular basis.. .
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 24, 2007, 07:13:53 AM
I would have argued with you because my in-laws had a (early 90s/ late 80s?) Grand Am they drove past 300k miles without a single breakdown. (Well, actually my wife fried the computer because she fell asleep as a passnger with her foot on the cigarette lighter and it shorted. but that was the ONLY time it had anything other than routine maintenance.)
BUT
Their Asstek has had problems since they bought it, and the Grand Am they bought a few years ago has also had issues on a regular basis.. .
You just HAD to go there with the Aztek.....
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 23, 2007, 06:27:19 PM
LOL
So let's troubleshoot the older car that went driving past me sounding all funky. I think it was a Pontiac. Didn't sound right.
Any ideas??
:lol: :rolleyes: :lol: :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :devil: :rolleyes: :lol: :tounge:
timing?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 23, 2007, 06:27:19 PM
LOL
So let's troubleshoot the older car that went driving past me sounding all funky. I think it was a Pontiac. Didn't sound right.
Any ideas??
:lol: :rolleyes: :lol: :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :devil: :rolleyes: :lol: :tounge:
Hey man, there are no issues with my cars right now, and I felt left out.
Quote from: Raza ?link=topic=7526.msg427396#msg427396 date=1177435156
Hey man, there are no issues with my cars right now, and I felt left out.
LOL
No "pinch-hitting". :thumbsup:
Quote from: southdiver1 on April 24, 2007, 08:38:45 AM
You just HAD to go there with the Aztek.....
it's ugly but it honestly has the biggest trunk I've ever seen. I told them to get the tent just so they could actually call it "worth" the ugliness.
Although they haven't got stuck in deep snow or water since they bought it. (They're in NH and had to evacuate in the fall because of flooding.)
Alright, I'm going to resurrect this thread with one I had today...kinda fun to figure out.
Vehicle is a 2007 Pontiac G5, 2.2L Ecotec. Vehicle is running rough with a flashing MIL. After removing spark plugs and cranking during diag found a small geyser of fuel shooting from the number 3 spark plug bore.
What is wrong with it?
blocked injector?
Gnomes.