Fuel system cleaners

Started by Tom, May 23, 2005, 01:19:01 PM

Tom

Does anyone put fuel system/injector cleaners you're gas?  If so, how often and which brand?

BartsSVO

I use STP concentrated cleaner (the $4 stuff) every time I change the oil. Some of the additives in the cleaners can actually lead to deposits on the plugs and valves if used too often. Before I knew better I would put the stuff in about once a month and got nice reddish ash deposits all over my plugs.  
--Bart

1986 Mustang SVO
1995 Ranger XLT

Tom

QuoteI use STP concentrated cleaner (the $4 stuff) every time I change the oil. Some of the additives in the cleaners can actually lead to deposits on the plugs and valves if used too often. Before I knew better I would put the stuff in about once a month and got nice reddish ash deposits all over my plugs.
Over on bobistheoilguy.com forums, those guys are pretty insistent that the STP oil stuff is an old, useless practice.  Have you noticed any advantages using it?

giant_mtb

Quote
QuoteI use STP concentrated cleaner (the $4 stuff) every time I change the oil. Some of the additives in the cleaners can actually lead to deposits on the plugs and valves if used too often. Before I knew better I would put the stuff in about once a month and got nice reddish ash deposits all over my plugs.
Over on bobistheoilguy.com forums, those guys are pretty insistent that the STP oil stuff is an old, useless practice.  Have you noticed any advantages using it?
I don't think the differences it makes are noticeable by the driver...I think it just improves the cleanliness of the engine...which should, in turn, make the engine run smoother, but that's probably about it.

Tom

Quote
Quote
QuoteI use STP concentrated cleaner (the $4 stuff) every time I change the oil. Some of the additives in the cleaners can actually lead to deposits on the plugs and valves if used too often. Before I knew better I would put the stuff in about once a month and got nice reddish ash deposits all over my plugs.
Over on bobistheoilguy.com forums, those guys are pretty insistent that the STP oil stuff is an old, useless practice.  Have you noticed any advantages using it?
I don't think the differences it makes are noticeable by the driver...I think it just improves the cleanliness of the engine...which should, in turn, make the engine run smoother, but that's probably about it.
Right, but he owns an '86.  If he used the stuff since first bought (assuming he's original owner?) the product would by now, maybe even significantly, have contributed to the current condition of the engine.  Does it run like a top?  Does it run like crap?...

SargeMonkey

Bleach? I have no idea but I would like to know.  <_<  
`79 Civic Cvcc
`81 Civic 1300xl
`78 Silverado Camper 454
`70 Chevy Fleetside (non running)
`91 Camry XL All-trac 4cyl
`86 Toyota Pickup (475k miles)
`92 Jeep Wrangler Renegade 4" lift 35" tires.

giant_mtb

QuoteBleach? I have no idea but I would like to know.  <_<
Huh?

BartsSVO

I'm not using the STP oil treatment, just the fuel injector cleaner. I've never used any oil treatment aside from the stuff that is supposed to reduce smoking which I've had mixed results with. Regular oil changes should make oil additives unnecessary.

I'm not the original owner of the car, in fact I just bought it back in December. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the engine but in terms of sludge there was none when I took it apart, although the rod bearings were wiped out (the copper was exposed) but this was likely due to coolant getting into the oil from the warped head. There was traces of coolant in the oil pan when I took it off, but I'm not certain that's just not from the coolant that got into the engine when I took the head off. All of that should be a moot point in about a month when I finally get everything back from the machine shop and install new bearings, pistons and rings. Catman has been bugging me to create a thread on my progress, which I will probably do when I start putting things back together since taking the thing apart is pretty boring and time consuming. I'm also thinking about creating a webpage on the restoration.

I wouldn't run bleach in a vehicle period. Chlorine is corrosive and would wreak havoc on the steel in the fuel system.
--Bart

1986 Mustang SVO
1995 Ranger XLT

BartsSVO

#8
double post
--Bart

1986 Mustang SVO
1995 Ranger XLT

bobwill

I play it rather cautious on both ends, since fuel system cleaners might help my cars performance I feel compelled to use them.  As most of them are mystery mixes of chemicals that might interfere with the detergents in the gasoline I definately don't want to overuse them.

So I use one 12oz bottle of techron additive every 10,000-20,000 miles.

JWC

Chevron Techron II is the only additive I've ever had a factory tech rep recommend.

TurboDan

I've never used one, because someone once told me they can do more harm than good to cars with turbocharged engines.  Is this a myth, or is there any truth to it?

SargeMonkey

A turbo engine is almost the same as a normal engine, exept the have lower compessrion, right?
`79 Civic Cvcc
`81 Civic 1300xl
`78 Silverado Camper 454
`70 Chevy Fleetside (non running)
`91 Camry XL All-trac 4cyl
`86 Toyota Pickup (475k miles)
`92 Jeep Wrangler Renegade 4" lift 35" tires.

280Z Turbo

#13
QuoteI've never used one, because someone once told me they can do more harm than good to cars with turbocharged engines.  Is this a myth, or is there any truth to it?
I don't see how that would make any sense.

I use Seafoam via a vacuum inlet and Gumout in the tank.

BartsSVO

QuoteA turbo engine is almost the same as a normal engine, exept the have lower compessrion, right?
Usually they are lower compression, but it isn't a total necessity. However, with a higher compression engine you have to run higher octane fuel for an equal amount of boost. For example, the 2.3L in my Mustang uses dished pistons and has larger combustion chambers in the head that nets a 8:1 compression ratio. Naturally aspirated 2.3Ls have flat top pistons and smaller combustion chambers and net a 9:1 compression ratio. Turbo engines also typically use forged pistons which hold up better under detonation and the extreme temperatures seen in turbocharged engines. Ideally you should also swap out camshafts although the small overlap cams (translation: the time in degrees of crank rotation that the exhaust and intake valves on a given cylinder are open at the same time) found in most street engines actually do well in turbocharged engines.
--Bart

1986 Mustang SVO
1995 Ranger XLT