Well I’ve had the Si for about a month and a half now and I’m enjoying it a lot. I’ve also made a long list of things that need to get changed on it and have already ordered my first upgrade; the Hondata ECU programmer and a tune by a well regarded tuner. I’m saving the intake and exhaust and all of that other ricer shit for later. The car could also use some work on the suspension and the stock tires have got to go as they are garbage.
Anyway, Monday morning I wake up to go to work and I see this in my driveway.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2ptovmv.jpg)
Fuckers jacked my wheels in the middle of the night on my driveway. This is pretty damn depressing. The car was resting on just two milk crates so I quickly went to each of our cars, stole their jacks, and put one on each corner with a stack of bricks just in case. So now, my car looks like this in my driveway.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/izuxl4.jpg)
I called the cops, called my insurance, got all of my shit lined up and filed my claim. After my deductible, insurance offered $2084. I talked them up to $2300 and now I’m just waiting for the day to be over to get my check. Ordering replacement parts off of TireRack and having them doing the mounting and balancing of the tires let me absorb a good amount of the deductible since the OEM Si rims and tires are expensive as fuck (Honda lists each at 314 retail, 278 wholesale. Crazy). The difference will also cover a new alarm system for the car.
As soon as the tires come in I’m going to install them and then drive the car to the Honda dealership so that they can align the car and program the tire pressure monitors. I’m hoping that I get all of this done by Tuesday.
Edit: Does anyone have any wheel lock and alarm system recommendations? I don't want a repeat of this :D
That sucks hardcore dude. Were there no wheel locks on you car?
Are you getting another set of stock wheels? RPF-1s look good on this gen Si.
Wheel locks are worthless, and didn't it already have them anyways? ( my Si came with them years ago, maybe thats changed?)
Ouch, that sucks. One of the downside to driving a car that is so popular (Civic in general), and having the top model.
If it makes you feel any better, I put on JUST new tires, brakes, and rotors and spent $1,964.00. Luckily my pop works at an auto shop and got the parts for me at his cost or it would have beenm closer to $2500. :praise:
Quote from: Raza on May 01, 2014, 12:16:25 PM
That sucks hardcore dude. Were there no wheel locks on you car?
Nope, blows right?
Quote from: 68_427 on May 01, 2014, 12:17:19 PM
Are you getting another set of stock wheels? RPF-1s look good on this gen Si.
My friend also recommended the RPF-1's and I don't really like the way they look. I went with the Motegi MR121 which is very obviously a BBS SR knock off but are almost 4 lbs lighter and $60 a wheel cheaper. I went with the Pilot Sport 3 A/S for the tire. I'm still not sure if I should even bother with two sets so I'm going with a solid A/S for now.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on May 01, 2014, 12:19:40 PM
Wheel locks are worthless, and didn't it already have them anyways? ( my Si came with them years ago, maybe thats changed?)
To my knowledge my Si didn't. The dealer never gave me a key or anything or mentioned them. And I know that a good thief can just go through them, but with how cheap they are and the little bit of inconvenience they add, I figure why not.
Quote from: SJ_GTI on May 01, 2014, 01:22:59 PM
Ouch, that sucks. One of the downside to driving a car that is so popular (Civic in general), and having the top model.
If it makes you feel any better, I put on JUST new tires, brakes, and rotors and spent $1,964.00. Luckily my pop works at an auto shop and got the parts for me at his cost or it would have beenm closer to $2500. :praise:
Ha, at least one of us is happy. What did you get?
Ultra-fuck. That totally sucks. Will what you're getting from insurance cover the wheels 100%?
Quote from: MexicoCityM3 on May 01, 2014, 01:37:04 PM
Ultra-fuck. That totally sucks. Will what you're getting from insurance cover the wheels 100%?
I'll be short my deductible (500) but by going aftermarket I can make up the difference and come out a little bit on top. The stock Si wheels look good, but they are really heavy at 23.5 lbs each and really expensive for what they are so this works in my favor somewhat.
Hmm, complication. The insurance check is written out to me and the dealership for the total price of parts/services. But I've already ordered the parts and I just need the services. Would the dealership be okay with signing for the check so that I can deposit it and then pay whatever the services cost out of pocket?
Given that you recently bought a brand new car from them I sure hope they won't be assholes about it.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 01, 2014, 01:33:35 PM
Ha, at least one of us is happy. What did you get?
That was a sarcastic happy. :lol:
The tires were Pirelli P-Zero Rosso's, can't remember the brand for the rotors and brake pads (believe they were same as OE).
That fucking sucks man. Wow.
Wow, that fucking blows! That really blows!
Makes me totally want to secure your garden and garage with Claymore mines - because the fuckers that do this deserve to be blown to bits. :rage:
wheel locks would have done absolutely nothing.
Frankly your lucky they left the motor, honda thieves are notorious around here. They could have pulled your motor and most of your interior in about 20 minutes.
Well, that's honda ownership. It's the main reason I never bought a integra Type R, didn't feel like going through all that work just to own it for a few weeks.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on May 05, 2014, 11:14:53 AM
wheel locks would have done absolutely nothing.
Frankly your lucky they left the motor, honda thieves are notorious around here. They could have pulled your motor and most of your interior in about 20 minutes.
Well, that's honda ownership. It's the main reason I never bought a integra Type R, didn't feel like going through all that work just to own it for a few weeks.
Like Clay's brother having I think two Type-Rs and a GSR stolen...
Well, wheels/tires finally came in
(http://s7.postimg.org/jj6je6bbb/photo_3_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jj6je6bbb/)
(http://s2.postimg.org/e21dzuec5/photo_4_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/e21dzuec5/)
And then spending some time I installed them. And by spending some time I mean be a giddy school kid on Christmas about to open up his brand new PS4.
(http://s29.postimg.org/3kxq10eg3/photo_1_3.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3kxq10eg3/)
(http://s9.postimg.org/506k6kivf/photo_2_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/506k6kivf/)
Tomorrow I'm going to take it into the dealership to get everything checked out and make sure there is no lingering damage anywhere, get the car aligned, and program the tire pressure sensors.
Although, these tires are making me want a new suspension more and more as the car would look a lot, lot better lowered a bit...
Park in the garage.
That sucks man. Some will remember picks of my old F150 up on jack stands about 10 years ago. Totally sucks.
My understanding is also that wheel locks are pretty much worthless. Only thing that really protects against this is a private garage IMHO.
Quote from: Lebowski on May 06, 2014, 05:16:54 PM
That sucks man. Some will remember picks of my old F150 up on jack stands about 10 years ago. Totally sucks.
My understanding is also that wheel locks are pretty much worthless. Only thing that really protects against this is a private garage IMHO.
Pretty much,
This:
http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-M980-Emergency-Lug-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1399471131&sr=8-2&keywords=wheel+lock+nut+remover (http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-M980-Emergency-Lug-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1399471131&sr=8-2&keywords=wheel+lock+nut+remover)
Plus a cordless 1/2" impact equals about 2 minutes and your rims are gone. Jacked up, unbolted(locks or not) and down the road.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on May 05, 2014, 11:14:53 AM
Frankly your lucky they left the motor, honda thieves are notorious around here. They could have pulled your motor and most of your interior in about 20 minutes.
That's that good old Honda serviceability (http://static2.consumerreportscdn.org/cro/cdn-resources/content/images/blobs/blob_5.gif)
New wheels look good!
Agree about the drop though (it would definitely look better lowered, even if just half an inch), but then I would say that about most new cars.
God, that sucks.
Unfortunately I don't have a garage so that's out. Its really stupid, our house is the only one without a garage and I just don't get it.
I'm installing one of those motion sensor alarms now to at least make me feel slightly better.
The car seems to drive better and not just in outright grip. I don't know if its just my mind playing tricks on me, or if the lighter wheels/better tires are that noticeable, but so far so good.
I'm sure they'll be back.
Instead of letting them continue to rob wheels and in the future other items such as engines and seats. Just leave the keys in the center console, but with the doors locked. That way they will just take the whole car and you can get paid for the whole thing.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on May 07, 2014, 10:14:22 AM
I'm sure they'll be back.
Instead of letting them continue to rob wheels and in the future other items such as engines and seats. Just leave the keys in the center console, but with the doors locked. That way they will just take the whole car and you can get paid for the whole thing.
All you need to do is surround the car in claymores.
Quote from: Raza on May 07, 2014, 11:30:18 AM
All you need to do is surround the car in claymores.
They'd just steal them too.
Every time we investigate one of these it's a Honda Civic. Sorry man.
Quote from: Catman on May 07, 2014, 06:06:54 PM
Every time we investigate one of these it's a Honda Civic. Sorry man.
Just curious, but do these investigations every actually turn anything up?
Quote from: Catman on May 07, 2014, 06:06:54 PM
Every time we investigate one of these it's a Honda Civic. Sorry man.
It's a problem here in SLC too. Enough to warrant a news article warning Civic owners to watch their stuff. My coworker's Civic was stolen right from our work parking lot apparently.
Have you considered mounting a camera facing the driveway?
That sucks, man. Better luck in the future.
Quote from: Raza on May 07, 2014, 11:30:18 AM
All you need to do is surround the car in claymores.
Its just a Civic :banghead:
Growing up my friends and I would joke that when people bought something nice to go with their modded Civics, they would still park the Civic in the garage and the nice car outside
Another big target is Honda Fit Sports.... they steal the wheels so they can put them on old Civics :banghead:
My dad was one of the first people in NYC to get the 1995 Maxima. He had an SE model. Within about 3-4 months they stole his rims too :facepalm:
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 08, 2014, 05:08:57 AM
Its just a Civic :banghead:
Growing up my friends and I would joke that when people bought something nice to go with their modded Civics, they would still park the Civic in the garage and the nice car outside
Another big target is Honda Fit Sports.... they steal the wheels so they can put them on old Civics :banghead:
My dad was one of the first people in NYC to get the 1995 Maxima. He had an SE model. Within about 3-4 months they stole his rims too :facepalm:
I had a 1997 Maxima. Great car.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 08, 2014, 05:08:57 AM
Its just a Civic :banghead:
Growing up my friends and I would joke that when people bought something nice to go with their modded Civics, they would still park the Civic in the garage and the nice car outside
Another big target is Honda Fit Sports.... they steal the wheels so they can put them on old Civics :banghead:
My dad was one of the first people in NYC to get the 1995 Maxima. He had an SE model. Within about 3-4 months they stole his rims too :facepalm:
The dealership I got my quote from was actually just working a Fit Sport that had it's rims stolen. Crazy.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 07, 2014, 09:24:30 PM
Just curious, but do these investigations every actually turn anything up?
I told you to get the GTI. You're lucky that you weren't raped Game of Thrones-style.
I find your fascination with Civics almost as strange as scheisse porn.
Quote from: mzziaz on May 08, 2014, 01:21:03 PM
I find your fascination with Civics almost as strange as scheisse porn.
I'm afraid to Google that...
That sucks. After having the stock wheels stolen, I'd just end up buying some cheap ass steel wheels until you have a permanent security solution for the car. They'll probably be back to steal the new rims you are getting. Like FBC said, Honda thieves are a special brand and may take more the next time. Happens around here a lot. With a new set of nice wheels on the car, it's just more bait.
Your new ones might be stolen by some idiots that think they're new type r wheels...
(http://o.aolcdn.com/dims-shared/dims3/GLOB/crop/1190x799+10+0/resize/628x417!/format/jpg/quality/85/http://o.aolcdn.com/hss/storage/midas/ab8a53a3c898ef151b2ddc285dc643e3/200111640/Honda-Civic-Type-R-Spy-Shot-002.jpg)
Quote from: 68_427 on May 13, 2014, 07:30:03 PM
Your new ones might be stolen by some idiots that think they're new type r wheels...
(http://o.aolcdn.com/dims-shared/dims3/GLOB/crop/1190x799+10+0/resize/628x417!/format/jpg/quality/85/http://o.aolcdn.com/hss/storage/midas/ab8a53a3c898ef151b2ddc285dc643e3/200111640/Honda-Civic-Type-R-Spy-Shot-002.jpg)
I was actually on the fence about getting gold rims. They don't look bad, but yeah, similar.
But I each wheel has three different grooved lug nuts on it, just to make it extra annoying.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 13, 2014, 09:57:00 PM
I was actually on the fence about getting gold rims. They don't look bad, but yeah, similar.
But I each wheel has three different grooved lug nuts on it, just to make it extra annoying.
Whenever we visit the in-laws in Leon and my car has to stay out all night I get really worried about my wheels getting stolen. It's pretty uncommon, but still.
I also have thought of having several "security" lugs on at the same time. From the info above, I guess it doesn't really matter.
I got some splined lugs for my new wheels, but I'm sure it won't actually stop anyone.
For the risk averse, I'm happy to take offers on my current ride...
Got about 100K on the clock and a set of black steelies. I personally guarantee that you can leave it unlocked in the worst neighborhood in your city and all you'll be missing in the morning is the change out of your ashtray.
Quote from: Tave on May 14, 2014, 11:53:06 AM
For the risk averse, I'm happy to take offers on my current ride...
Got about 100K on the clock and a set of black steelies. I personally guarantee that you can leave it unlocked in the worst neighborhood in your city and all you'll be missing in the morning is the change out of your ashtray.
Definition of dope lawyer ride. Never get rid of it.
How about keep it for hooning videos
This makes me soooooooooo angry! Sorry to hear!
So with the combination of winter and me working in the city, I rarely drive the car. I have maybe 8k miles in 10 months of ownership. Well, summer is coming(finally) and that means more SI time! It also justifies mods.
I have just purchased a cold air intake and the Honda Factory Performance suspension and am waiting for them to ship. I dig the SI, but it's a rolly polly in the corners and I've read good things about the HFP. I've called around and I've been quoted as much as $750 to install (lol Honda dealers be crazy) to 250(about right).
I'll post before and after pictures, but the drop should be about an inch which is all I'm willing to risk on the 3rd world Chicago streets
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If your going to mod it, check with your insurance company about scheduling some extra coverage for aftermarket parts.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 06, 2015, 08:38:10 AM
If your going to mod it, check with your insurance company about scheduling some extra coverage for aftermarket parts.
Meh. If it gets totalled, buy the car back and part it out.
Although, it's a Honda. It'll probably get stolen.
Oooooo I know u already bought the HFP suspension but the HFP shocks are tuned weird and are not very comfortable. Koni STR.Ts are a better bet.
I'm going with Suspension Techniques coilovers because I'm a ricer. Thats not happening any time soon though.
Quote from: thecarnut on March 06, 2015, 08:46:35 AM
Meh. If it gets totalled, buy the car back and part it out.
Although, it's a Honda. It'll probably get stolen.
I was mentioning it because of theft, totaling never even crossed my mind.
With rims, and soon to be lowered exhaust this car will probably be stolen by the end of fall. Insurance will not pay a dime for anything beyond stock, unless you specify a dollar amount for aftermarket items.
I'd throw a 5000 dollar endorsement on the car policy for aftermarket items, probably won't cost much.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 06, 2015, 08:52:02 AM
Oooooo I know u already bought the HFP suspension but the HFP shocks are tuned weird and are not very comfortable. Koni STR.Ts are a better bet.
I'm going with Suspension Techniques coilovers because I'm a ricer. Thats not happening any time soon though.
From what I've read, the 8th gen HFP was needlessly harsh for a daily but the 9th gen HFP is better sorted out and not as jarring. It was between the HFP and DS coils and I went with the HFP because I was able to get a good deal on it (650). If its as back breaking as it was on the 8th gen, I'll just swap it out.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 06, 2015, 08:55:37 AM
I was mentioning it because of theft, totaling never even crossed my mind.
With rims, and soon to be lowered exhaust this car will probably be stolen by the end of fall. Insurance will not pay a dime for anything beyond stock, unless you specify a dollar amount for aftermarket items.
I'd throw a 5000 dollar endorsement on the car policy for aftermarket items, probably won't cost much.
:lol:
I'm laughing because its true. One of the main reasons the HFP really appealed to me is because the drop is slight at only about an inch so its not as much of a target...hopefully.
I'll ask my insurance what a supplemental policy will cost.
Thats interesting. Do you have a link? I mainly want to see pics.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 06, 2015, 10:42:03 AM
Thats interesting. Do you have a link? I mainly want to see pics.
Yeah, it's on the 9th gen civic forums. You'll have to wade through a few pages of terrible grammar, but there's some decent stuff on there. I'll post the link a bit later when I get into work.
My suspension just came, now to find time to go to the shop.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ahhhh I can't see pics at work. Just checked first page on my phone. Didn't realize you have a 9th gen. I was confused because with minor tweaks the 8th and 9th gen suspensions are interchangeable. I think you just need the correct rear spring isolator and it's presto changeo. Yea hopefully Honda realized the errors in their ways. The shocks were just too damn stiff.
Civic update time!
Well, the CAI and the HFP suspension are still sitting in boxes in my parents basement. I imagine that when they are both installed the car will be super duper awesome, but between crazy hours at work and the nearest shop being a 45 minute drive into the suburbs that's only open M-F, they shall remain in their boxes for the near future.
I did, however, decide to take the car drag racing for shits and giggles this past weekend and managed to get in about 5 runs before the serious racers showed up and held up the line with their cars always fucking breaking and needing to be rolled in and out and just all sorts of obnoxious stuff. Its open night man, just drag the pickup that you used to hull your ride; it'll be able to do more than one run every hour and it won't ruin our night.
Anyway, the point is that a stock Si is just not that fast. A stock SI driven by a totall nub is even slower. I was with a group of EVOs that were consistently in the 13s, and one even dipped into the 12s, but the best I got was a 15.6 @ 87.55. That was my first run of the night with traction control on and someone in the passenger seat, and while my traps got higher as the night wore on, my time got slower. Apparently, stock SI's on all seasons can run as low as 14.8 @ 96ish by a brain dead driver all of the forums assure me, and even factoring in the forum brag factor of half a second and 4mph, I was still really slow. Anyway, my times:
15.617 @ 87.55
16.047 @ 89.81
15.720 @ 90.99
16.548 @ 85.81
15.832 @ 88.63
I'll more than likely go again and hopefully my CAI will be installed by then so I can see how many awesome horespowers it was able to summon to the ground....aaaaand probably end up going slower. But I'll sound faster!
I know a lot make fun of drag racing, but I had fun the one time I took the Mustang to the drags. I was way off what the mags were getting, too. Get your suspension on there, too. I'd imagine it would be good for a few tenths if it has high spring rates, keeping more weight on the front tires with less squat on the launch.
I think drag racing, go kart races/leagues, and autocrossing all have pretty good bang for the buck fun factor for those wanting some competition. U.S HPDE's are fun every so often, but cost a ton of money and there's no timing or competition.
Very, very interesting :popcorn:
I need to find a nearby strip.
One thing that a lot of people are doing to get those low times is absolutely lunching their transmissions. Brain dead indeed ;)
I think karting will be my drug of choice. I just need to actually pick a day and go.
Quote from: Xer0 on August 23, 2015, 12:31:40 AM
Civic update time!
Well, the CAI and the HFP suspension are still sitting in boxes in my parents basement. I imagine that when they are both installed the car will be super duper awesome, but between crazy hours at work and the nearest shop being a 45 minute drive into the suburbs that's only open M-F, they shall remain in their boxes for the near future.
I did, however, decide to take the car drag racing for shits and giggles this past weekend and managed to get in about 5 runs before the serious racers showed up and held up the line with their cars always fucking breaking and needing to be rolled in and out and just all sorts of obnoxious stuff. Its open night man, just drag the pickup that you used to hull your ride; it'll be able to do more than one run every hour and it won't ruin our night.
Anyway, the point is that a stock Si is just not that fast. A stock SI driven by a totall nub is even slower. I was with a group of EVOs that were consistently in the 13s, and one even dipped into the 12s, but the best I got was a 15.6 @ 87.55. That was my first run of the night with traction control on and someone in the passenger seat, and while my traps got higher as the night wore on, my time got slower. Apparently, stock SI's on all seasons can run as low as 14.8 @ 96ish by a brain dead driver all of the forums assure me, and even factoring in the forum brag factor of half a second and 4mph, I was still really slow. Anyway, my times:
15.617 @ 87.55
16.047 @ 89.81
15.720 @ 90.99
16.548 @ 85.81
15.832 @ 88.63
I'll more than likely go again and hopefully my CAI will be installed by then so I can see how many awesome horespowers it was able to summon to the ground....aaaaand probably end up going slower. But I'll sound faster!
What altitude are you at? That will make a big difference in what kind of ETs you can get. If you're living at 4000+ ft, you're not going to get the times or traps speeds that guys living in Florida are getting.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 23, 2015, 08:14:22 AM
Very, very interesting :popcorn:
I need to find a nearby strip.
One thing that a lot of people are doing to get those low times is absolutely lunching their transmissions. Brain dead indeed ;)
I think karting will be my drug of choice. I just need to actually pick a day and go.
You should get into some auto crossing too. Not a lot of wear and tear, and have fun with your car with little chance of wadding it up (just take it easy on the turns that have a light post nearby)
I'm sure there are a ton of drag strips out there
Quote from: HotRodPilot on August 23, 2015, 12:40:40 AM
I know a lot make fun of drag racing, but I had fun the one time I took the Mustang to the drags. I was way off what the mags were getting, too. Get your suspension on there, too. I'd imagine it would be good for a few tenths if it has high spring rates, keeping more weight on the front tires with less squat on the launch.
I think drag racing, go kart races/leagues, and autocrossing all have pretty good bang for the buck fun factor for those wanting some competition. U.S HPDE's are fun every so often, but cost a ton of money and there's no timing or competition.
Joining a go kart league has been in the back of my mind for some time now and as soon as I can find a schedule to work, I probably will join one. But yeah, I was one of those people looking down on drag racing but all in all, it was actually really fun and exciting!
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Quote from: MX793 on August 23, 2015, 08:34:43 AM
What altitude are you at? That will make a big difference in what kind of ETs you can get. If you're living at 4000+ ft, you're not going to get the times or traps speeds that guys living in Florida are getting.
The strip was in southern Wisconsin (I live in Chicago) and the altitude was 712ft according to their site.
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Quote from: HotRodPilot on August 23, 2015, 12:40:40 AM
I know a lot make fun of drag racing, but I had fun the one time I took the Mustang to the drags. I was way off what the mags were getting, too. Get your suspension on there, too. I'd imagine it would be good for a few tenths if it has high spring rates, keeping more weight on the front tires with less squat on the launch.
I think drag racing, go kart races/leagues, and autocrossing all have pretty good bang for the buck fun factor for those wanting some competition. U.S HPDE's are fun every so often, but cost a ton of money and there's no timing or competition.
AutoX is my petrol-fueled adrenaline rush of choice. Way cheaper entry fees than an HPDE (I can run an entire 6-8 event season for about what one HPDE would cost at any of the tracks around here), actual competition, course is different every time (tests adaptability), and not so much wear and tear on brakes and tires as running on actual tracks, which further helps the cost factor. Obviously, speed is way down, but if you like rapid changes in direction, it scratches the itch.
I wonder if I can do autocross on my motorcycle. That would kill about 3 birds with one stone.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 23, 2015, 09:21:11 AM
I wonder if I can do autocross on my motorcycle. That would kill about 3 birds with one stone.
No. Not in any of the major autocross sanctioning bodies that I'm familiar with. Huge safety liability. Also, I personally wouldn't want to run a bike on an autocross course. You're running in parking lots with all of the hazards associated with parking lot pavement. Oil slicks, sand/gravel, and even just the painted lines (which are often much slicker than asphalt) all out there to take out a bike. Not to mention clipping a cone while leaned over would probably be enough to take a bike down. And most parking lots have lamp posts and they don't put any kind of hay bales or anything to pad those. Course setup guidelines force you to keep some distance from poles to reduce the likelihood of somebody hitting them, but sometimes shit happens.
Yeah fuck autox on a motorcycle. The idea itself is so stupid.
I'd like to try a gymkhana course on my bike, but that is super slow speed anyways (10-15 mph).
I feel like auto-x is too expensive for what you get. 4-5 1 minute runs for $40 is not a good deal IMO. Track days are more expensive, but for $200 or so you can get 7 15 min sessions. Yes, it's much harder on the car but if I'm going to spend a day doing some sort of event I'd like to get the most out of it.
Where were you running for $200? Autox lets you see how you stack up against other cars and drivers too
Some of the autox test and tunes around here get you a lot of runs. Last one I was at I probably ran about 15 times before I had a car issue.
Just install the CAI and suspension yourself?
Quote from: MrH on August 23, 2015, 11:06:33 AM
Just install the CAI and suspension yourself?
I'm mechanically inept. The CAI requires a battery relocation among other things and I wouldn't know where to start with the suspension.
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Quote from: thecarnut on August 23, 2015, 10:06:20 AM
Yeah fuck autox on a motorcycle. The idea itself is so stupid.
I'd like to try a gymkhana course on my bike, but that is super slow speed anyways (10-15 mph).
I feel like auto-x is too expensive for what you get. 4-5 1 minute runs for $40 is not a good deal IMO. Track days are more expensive, but for $200 or so you can get 7 15 min sessions. Yes, it's much harder on the car but if I'm going to spend a day doing some sort of event I'd like to get the most out of it.
I agree that dollars per minute, autoX isn't as much of a value as a track day, though arguably better than drag racing. Even in my region, where we get low turn outs and typically get 7 runs per event on average (plus you can usually get 2-4 "fun runs" in for a couple of bucks at the end of an event). But not everyone has a track nearby, and not all tracks do track days for $200. If there was a track I could get onto for only $200 an event around here, I'd probably go that route vs autoX. Watkins Glen is the closest track to me and it's far enough that I'd want a hotel room. Their HPDE type events are almost exclusively on weekdays. Cheapest I've seen is one of the driving schools offers a 1-time-only "taste of HPDE" that, for $75, gets you classroom instruction plus a single 20-minute track session with an instructor on day 1 of their 2-day school. If you like it, you can pay the balance of the normal $500 HPDE event fee and continue with more sessions and get into day 2. All other HPDEs are $400+ between entry fees and any annual dues for the clubs/organizations that run them. The company that does the most HPDEs per year there isn't open to novices. Only "pro open track" and "intermediate driving school" sessions, the latter requires a documented 10+ days of HPDE experience (or 5+ at WGI), and costs about $500, with a $300/day cost for those that qualify for the "open track" sessions.
Doing the math, for me as a novice to run all 4 events (8 days) at WGI next year that are open to novice drivers, it would cost me ~$2000 for entry fees plus ~$800-900 for hotel stays. And I'm missing work and using vacation time to attend since all of those events are weekday events (autoX are always weekends). Yeah, it works out to be a better value than a comparable dollar amount spent on autoX fees, but but it's a much steeper point of entry. Just one event would run me close to $500, and if the weather is crappy that day (I point out that it rains here roughly 3 days a week), you paid a big chunk of change for a watered down track experience.
Quote from: Xer0 on August 23, 2015, 11:42:11 AM
I'm mechanically inept. The CAI requires a battery relocation among other things and I wouldn't know where to start with the suspension.
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Oooo I hope you know a competent shop. That sucks
If I was still up north I would consider coming to help out.
Quote from: Xer0 on August 23, 2015, 12:31:40 AM
Civic update time!
Well, the CAI and the HFP suspension are still sitting in boxes in my parents basement. I imagine that when they are both installed the car will be super duper awesome, but between crazy hours at work and the nearest shop being a 45 minute drive into the suburbs that's only open M-F, they shall remain in their boxes for the near future.
I did, however, decide to take the car drag racing for shits and giggles this past weekend and managed to get in about 5 runs before the serious racers showed up and held up the line with their cars always fucking breaking and needing to be rolled in and out and just all sorts of obnoxious stuff. Its open night man, just drag the pickup that you used to hull your ride; it'll be able to do more than one run every hour and it won't ruin our night.
Anyway, the point is that a stock Si is just not that fast. A stock SI driven by a totall nub is even slower. I was with a group of EVOs that were consistently in the 13s, and one even dipped into the 12s, but the best I got was a 15.6 @ 87.55. That was my first run of the night with traction control on and someone in the passenger seat, and while my traps got higher as the night wore on, my time got slower. Apparently, stock SI's on all seasons can run as low as 14.8 @ 96ish by a brain dead driver all of the forums assure me, and even factoring in the forum brag factor of half a second and 4mph, I was still really slow. Anyway, my times:
15.617 @ 87.55
16.047 @ 89.81
15.720 @ 90.99
16.548 @ 85.81
15.832 @ 88.63
I'll more than likely go again and hopefully my CAI will be installed by then so I can see how many awesome horespowers it was able to summon to the ground....aaaaand probably end up going slower. But I'll sound faster!
So do those times have your reaction time not included?
It takes a lot of experience to drag a M/T car well, esp. the launch. A lot is decided in those first seconds (and why drag guys watch their 60' times so much).
Also, atmo conditions are a factor too - temp, elevation, humidity. Auto mags are almost always dragging at favorable atmo conditions.
Civic is hard to launch too. Always a bummer to get of the bike back into the car.... to little power and it bogs, to much and you're the asshole peeling off from the light. Bike is childs play to launch by comparison
Quote from: MX793 on August 23, 2015, 12:23:01 PM
I agree that dollars per minute, autoX isn't as much of a value as a track day, though arguably better than drag racing. Even in my region, where we get low turn outs and typically get 7 runs per event on average (plus you can usually get 2-4 "fun runs" in for a couple of bucks at the end of an event). But not everyone has a track nearby, and not all tracks do track days for $200. If there was a track I could get onto for only $200 an event around here, I'd probably go that route vs autoX. Watkins Glen is the closest track to me and it's far enough that I'd want a hotel room. Their HPDE type events are almost exclusively on weekdays. Cheapest I've seen is one of the driving schools offers a 1-time-only "taste of HPDE" that, for $75, gets you classroom instruction plus a single 20-minute track session with an instructor on day 1 of their 2-day school. If you like it, you can pay the balance of the normal $500 HPDE event fee and continue with more sessions and get into day 2. All other HPDEs are $400+ between entry fees and any annual dues for the clubs/organizations that run them. The company that does the most HPDEs per year there isn't open to novices. Only "pro open track" and "intermediate driving school" sessions, the latter requires a documented 10+ days of HPDE experience (or 5+ at WGI), and costs about $500, with a $300/day cost for those that qualify for the "open track" sessions.
Doing the math, for me as a novice to run all 4 events (8 days) at WGI next year that are open to novice drivers, it would cost me ~$2000 for entry fees plus ~$800-900 for hotel stays. And I'm missing work and using vacation time to attend since all of those events are weekday events (autoX are always weekends). Yeah, it works out to be a better value than a comparable dollar amount spent on autoX fees, but but it's a much steeper point of entry. Just one event would run me close to $500, and if the weather is crappy that day (I point out that it rains here roughly 3 days a week), you paid a big chunk of change for a watered down track experience.
We can get a track pack here for around $2k that has 12-13 track events throughout the year, at various tracks. Of course, doing a track day every month is hell on your car, so it ends up being a lot more than that.
KArting it is
Desolate back roads it is.
Quote from: thecarnut on August 23, 2015, 06:08:52 PM
We can get a track pack here for around $2k that has 12-13 track events throughout the year, at various tracks. Of course, doing a track day every month is hell on your car, so it ends up being a lot more than that.
I can only think of 3 road courses in NY right now (tons of dirt and asphalt ovals, though).
1) WGI, which only holds ~7 HPDE/Open track days a year (more if you happen to belong to either the BMW or Porsche club). Costs covered in depth previously.
2) NY Safety Track, which is really more of a motorcycle venue but also allows cars to run some days ($50/yr annual membership and $250 a day to run a car). I don't think they hold any kind of HPDE or instructed events for cars, which would make me a little wary of just how well run or controlled the car sessions are. I've heard from a co-worker who runs motorcycles there that it can be a little sketchy.
3) Monticello Motor Club, which requires a $45,000 up-front "initiation fee" and then an additional $4100 a year for a 10 year "bronze membership". That gets you 10 driving days (5 max weekend days) per year and puts you at last dibs for events/driving schools/rentals vs those that bought more expensive silver or gold memberships. I'd need to make a couple times my current salary for that to be feasible...
All are far enough that a hotel stay would be in the cards.
They're building a new motorsport complex like 15 miles from me. Road course, dirt oval (for both cars and horses), and autocross pad. I keep hearing it will be open next year, but the guy in front of it came to a local SCCA meeting back in 2011 to tell us that the facility would be up and running by 2013 and they didn't even break ground until late 2014, so I have my doubts. Local AutoX chapter is banking heavily on this place being our premier venue. We've been very short on venues the past few years. I'm hoping it's more accessible than WGI in terms of track days and HPDEs. Hopefully cheaper than WGI as well, but even if it's not, not having to get a hotel room is a decent cost savings.
CMP is about 70 miles away and has HPDEs for $310/day, and motorcycle days for $150/day. GoPro has an outdoor kart complex about 30 miles from me that does sessions for $20 a pop. I just need to find a drag strip and I'm set
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on August 23, 2015, 01:34:53 PM
Civic is hard to launch too. Always a bummer to get of the bike back into the car.... to little power and it bogs, to much and you're the asshole peeling off from the light. Bike is childs play to launch by comparison
:wtf: Yeah, those damn 130 hp civics. So tough to launch :lol:
Hahah
Its true :huh:
on ramps it is
low hp cars= easier to drive hard, harder to drive well= more fun
The long gravel driveway on my land that I haven't built yet it is.
The Si is pretty easy to launch actually. The shifter is very forgiving and the LSD helps a ton. Get up to like 3K and let go of the clutch and you're off with very little wheel spin. My issue was shift points. On one run I was in first gear a half second too long and pinged cutoff. The other runs I either shifted too soon or too late.
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Update time!
The HFP suspension and cold air intact are installed. I'm on my way to pick up the car right now and will post pictures/impressions when I get it.
I'll be taking it back to the drag strip and probably AutoX-ing next weekend so hopefully everything will come together nicely.
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Sweet! Can't wait to see some pix.
9th gens are growing on me. I could do a white Si. Looking forward to the pics
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 02, 2015, 12:49:07 PM
9th gens are growing on me. I could do a white Si. Looking forward to the pics
I wish I had white, black is too much of a pain to keep clean.
Initial impressions from my drive home; it sounds pretty sweet. When you get on it it has this deeper sound than stock that I dig a lot. Not sure if butt meter notices a speed difference but I guess I'll find out when I take it to the drag strip.
The suspension is honestly not that harsh. I didn't go crazy on it since I'm just going to let it settle for a week before I align it, but it was less tipsy than stock and took a couple of fun on ramps at 50/55 mph. Car is dirty so I'll snap some pictures after I wash it this weekend.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/02/70b3082247bffa575694a141b3d0245e.jpg)
Here's the engine bay after the CAI. With the battery moved way down low, there looks like there is decent amount of room just chill on there.
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Cai is supposed to and legitimate 10 hp go that engine, eh?
https://vimeo.com/142008248 (https://vimeo.com/142008248)
I'll post some impressions later, but in the meantime, here's a video
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Corners flat! Seems like the shocks could use more low speed control though. Looking forward to pictures and impressions
I take it you don't autocross regularly. Otherwise you would have been better off leaving the suspension stock (at least for this year). Following the reshuffle of DS, GS, and HS for this year, the Si got moved to HS, where it is something of an overdog (along with the FiST) both in class and overall thanks to HS's low PAX multiplier.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 10, 2015, 03:21:04 PM
Corners flat! Seems like the shocks could use more low speed control though. Looking forward to pictures and impressions
The suspension is on but isn't aligned yet so hopefully that will take care of all of the nasty understeer. The brakes and tires will also probably be next on the upgrade train. I'm going to wash and detail the car tomorrow so I'll post pictures then.
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Quote from: MX793 on October 10, 2015, 04:16:12 PM
I take it you don't autocross regularly. Otherwise you would have been better off leaving the suspension stock (at least for this year). Following the reshuffle of DS, GS, and HS for this year, the Si got moved to HS, where it is something of an overdog (along with the FiST) both in class and overall thanks to HS's low PAX multiplier.
This is my first time ever autocrossing so it was more of a learning experience than anything else. It was a blast! Are your events dominated by S2Ks, Miata's, and Vettes? Those three models made up most of the field here. I was still in HS on this run.
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Quote from: Xer0 on October 10, 2015, 04:23:04 PM
This is my first time ever autocrossing so it was more of a learning experience than anything else. It was a blast! Are your events dominated by S2Ks, Miata's, and Vettes? Those three models made up most of the field here. I was still in HS on this run.
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Registration wasn't doing their job if they put you in HS. The intake and springs would move you to STX. Unless that was before mods were installed.
We have pretty low attendance, so there's not a huge contingent of any particular car. Miatas are probably the most common. Last even we had 33 cars, with the Miata (mix of NA and NB) being the most common at 5. Next most common was the Mazda3 (3 of them). Then a pair of 500 Abarths. Also a pair of 3-series (one E30 and one E46). The remaining 20 or so cars were all unique. We used to have a pretty big Subaru contingent a few years ago, mostly WRXs and STIs, but that group seems to have lost interest in it (a couple of them crashed their cars and kind of swore off the sport).
Glad you enjoyed it. Your hand placement needs a bit of work though :lol:
You should have seen the mess my feet were in, especially that first run where I practically pissed myself
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Just realized I didn't put up any pictures or impressions!
Drag racing: The car was definitely faster and I was consistently getting traps that were 3-4mph faster than the first time I went. My time was only mildly better though telling me my launch still needs work. Overall, drag racing is fun but too expensive (I got 4 runs in in a 3 hour period).
AutoX: The car under steers a lot. Not sure what I should have expected since this was the first time I've gone, but reading about understeer and experiencing it in that setting are very different things. Looking into it, it's very much intentional from the factory. Honda has a 21mm front sway and 18 rear. They upgraded it to a 20mm in 14 but fit massive and heavy 18' wheels, effectively making the car slower. People recommend 21mm for a more neutral feel while 22/24 if you want some oversteer. That and tires will most likely be my next upgrade to the car. Probably brakes too.
Anyway, pictures.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/80cddb21c5b2f3605c5df32216d6e6c3.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/be24fb268c42d994ddf456ae6e1ae574.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/2cf8d5f8316b442e146e2a480fda0eb9.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/267e239e06b3c1959f3d11296d2b65f7.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/9ed0f16f95986f636654788a0af1f1e6.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/b6c0bdaf5285240f26cab0630877a32b.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/1019dc4080b1dca4118b80561e657108.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/68561cda02e4de049411692e9ae9fdb0.jpg)
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I thought you had different rims than those(diff color?).
So do those ETs have your R/T removed?
Racecar.
Those are the replacement ones after the stocks got stolen. It still hurts thinking about it!
Cougs, I'm not sure honestly if they do or don't.
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Found one more autocross event before the year is over and invested in magnetic numbers so I don't look like that much of a scrub. Pretty excited to finish the year and plan what to do for next year so I can go to as many events as possible.
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I like this
Just came home from AutoX today and I had a great time, just like the last event I went to. Everyone is super friendly and always willing to help you out with pointers and tips to getting the best time; it's a really welcoming and mature group, I love it.
Anyway, more impressions of the Si. On the last event I ran, I had installed the HFP suspension but had yet to align the car. Before I went out for this event however, I stopped at my local shop and had them align to a "more aggressive stock" setting (the shops explanation, not mine). When I picked it up, I honestly couldn't tell a difference in everyday driving and thought I had just pissed away $100. When I finally got it on the track though, holy shit.
A lot of the annoying understeer that I complained about in the prior event was quelled and the car's rear even started to rotate on me in a couple of the corners. I had never experienced this before and it spooked me when it first happened but then it was exciting. This car just kinda, sorta, almost oversteered! I didn't know how to really control it so I just dialed it down when it happened, making mental notes of how hard I have to get at it for it to rotate and then played with that point the rest of the day. This is all still very new to me.
As the day went on I kept getting faster and faster, starting at about 76 seconds and ending at just over 64 seconds. This put me at about a 1.5/2 seconds slower than a couple of Focus ST's at the event, but more importantly, I was faster than my friend with a built EVO by a whole second. As we're both complete and total noobs at this, and his car is way way faster than mine and on summer tires, I will be hanging this over his head for a long, long time. Its great.
The body that sponsored this even also has driving schools in the Spring that I will be absolutely signing up for. Honestly, as an enthusiast I can't recommend autocrossing enough and hopefully, with enough practice I want to eventually try actual racing on a track in the future, but going to focus on this for now.
Nice! I stopped autocrossing because here it's $40-50 for 4 runs, and with each run being under a minute, the $/driving time ratio sucks. I'd rather spend 4x the money on a track day and get 20x the driving time.
Also, an aggressive alignment (more camber, less caster) will make your car real fast at auto-x. I'd also zero out the toe for faster turn-in response.
Ah, FWD LTO. My Mazda3 was extremely prone to that. I managed to completely spin out in that car at an autocross because I lifted in a reducing radius turn that transitioned into a slalom. Trail brake on corner entry and you could get the ass end out really easily. Jetta isn't nearly the willing partner for those kinds of shenanigans. Hard trail braking and you can coax the slightest bit of rear slip and rotation out of it, but that's it.
Looking forward to next summer. I didn't get out this year at all. But next summer I'd like to run the maita at a few events, just for fun. And maybe slide the gtr around some cones. Around here test and tunes are cheap and fun with a lot of runs.
Well, another year, another tire issue. I was driving home last night and hit a pothole that didn't seem too deep, but was filled up by the rain. It fucked my rim up.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/4bcfd65c02809a9cb2b8034f0e204984.jpg)
So now the car is on a donut and looks like shit. I won't be going aurocrossing tomorrow either but will instead try and pick out some new rims. Currently running 215/45 on 17x7 rims. I'll probably move to a slightly wider rim/tire since the skinny look was bothering me, but keep it at 17 inches.
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I've seen people go up to 235 on mine, you might be able to squeeze 245s on yours
I would prob size down in diameter up there though... JFC that pothole took a bite out of crime (!!!!)
*jaw drop*
Don't put wider than a 215 on a 7in wheel. It sucks. It's so mushy. There's a massive fucking difference for me going from a 7.5" to 7" on a 225 tire. Think 20-40mph lower on a standard on/off ramp due to lack of confidence. Too much sidewall flex from the "balloon like" sidewall.
You can run a 225 on a 7" rim. Not sure I'd go wider, but it's in the recommended range for a 225/45 tire. My last Mustang came with 225s on a 7" rim from the factory, albeit at a taller sidewall section. They were kind of spongy, but that had more to do with the tall sidewall than the width of the tire. I went slightly over-width to a 255 on an 8" wheel when I upgraded my rims and it wasn't spooky/spongy. Hell of a lot less so than the OEM setup.
I have 225/45-17s on a 17x7 rim on the BMW. They look fine and don't feel spongy to me. I wouldn't go wider than 225, but my grip is really good with these. :huh:
I'll probably do 225/45 on 17x7.5 this go around. I just need to make sure the rims are light enough; my current ones are at 17 pounds so need the replacements to be in the same range.
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17x8 Kosei K4R is 14.8 lb.
How much do they go for?
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Between 150-200. Too bad they're pretty bland.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 14, 2016, 08:35:30 PM
How much do they go for?
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http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&wheelMake=Kosei&wheelModel=K4R&wheelFinish=Light+Grey+Painted (http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&wheelMake=Kosei&wheelModel=K4R&wheelFinish=Light+Grey+Painted)
$200 max
Koseis are very reasonable
I am really liking these (http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Civic+Sedan&autoYear=2009&autoModClar=EX&target=runWheelSearch&wheelMake=Enkei+Tuning&wheelModel=TS9&wheelFinish=Platinum+Grey)
(http://i.imgur.com/SdLrkvF.png)
I was looking around and Tirerack only has them available in 16' :frown:
Looking around some more, here is a what my current cart is leaning towards (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160515/addcaec25c7165ddba716d0a367fa1f7.jpg)
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I like it. I'd like to see them on your car
Did you call them to make sure those come in 5 lug? I've only ever seen 4 lug ones.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 14, 2016, 10:57:37 AM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/4bcfd65c02809a9cb2b8034f0e204984.jpg)
Yikes, that looks painful.
I have either been really lucky or the wheels I bought are really strong, because so far I have not damaged any wheels since I have owned my car despite the tire being in rubber band territory (255/35R19).
Quote from: Xer0 on May 14, 2016, 10:57:37 AM
Well, another year, another tire issue. I was driving home last night and hit a pothole that didn't seem too deep, but was filled up by the rain. It fucked my rim up.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/4bcfd65c02809a9cb2b8034f0e204984.jpg)
So now the car is on a donut and looks like shit. I won't be going aurocrossing tomorrow either but will instead try and pick out some new rims. Currently running 215/45 on 17x7 rims. I'll probably move to a slightly wider rim/tire since the skinny look was bothering me, but keep it at 17 inches.
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That happened to me in my Passat. Same deal, filled with rainwater, had no idea how deep it was.
Yup, it all sucks. I'll need to file a claim with the city and see if they will help me recoup anything.
Anyway, new rims/tires ordered. I got the Kosei K8Rs instead, which I think look better and are slightly lighter at just 16lbs. Hankook Ventus V2 summer rubber @225/45 on them, so should be a decent improvement over the all seasons I had on now.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160517/ec5df71392e829de975982b03d7df87d.jpg)
After all this, I'm going to invest in a thicker rear sway bar. The 13 Si has a 21mm front and 18mm rear. With the 14 and up Si, Honda upgraded it to a 20mm and that is an easy, and cheap, upgrade at just $100. That'll be my next purchase. Brake pads after that and possibly full exhaust if I'm feeling up to it.
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Are u gonna really feel a difference with 2mm though...
Im def doing the '14 but my rear sway is like 7mm. It's a long paper clip. I'm prob gonna do the 8th gen Si front too
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 17, 2016, 02:09:09 PM
Are u gonna really feel a difference with 2mm though...
Im def doing the '14 but my rear sway is like 7mm. It's a long paper clip. I'm prob gonna do the 8th gen Si front too
Really man? Torsional stiffness of a solid shaft is directly correlated to the diameter^4.
18^4 = 104k
20^4 = 160k
160/104 = 1.53
All else being equal, it's 53% stiffer...
I'm gonna need some transcript on this Mech E degree :lol: I need to contact some of your profs
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 17, 2016, 02:09:09 PM
Are u gonna really feel a difference with 2mm though...
Im def doing the '14 but my rear sway is like 7mm. It's a long paper clip. I'm prob gonna do the 8th gen Si front too
Torsional stiffness is a function of diameter ^4. 11% increase in diameter is a 50% increase in rigidity.
Hey 12k, torsion stiffness of a sway bar is equal to the diameter^4, so it's actually a 50% increase in stiffness.
TRIPLE KILL
Man, you enginerds are tough on each other. No wonder CarSPIN is so brutal. :lol:
Percent increase in stiffness is just a number - what really matters is what change is necessary to actually notice it.
Quote from: SJ_GTI on May 17, 2016, 02:44:04 PM
Man, you enginerds are tough on each other. No wonder CarSPIN is so brutal. :lol:
(http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/016/925/498ed76be651cffb6bb9bac6a9bb75c3.png)
I remember the torsional stiffness being something something to the powers of 4, so that 2mm increase is like a 16 mm increase. Proportionate to the inverse of the differnetial of course.
Tires are here! Unfortunately, I won't have any time to put them on until this weekend. I'll give the car a wash and take some pictures then.
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Why those tires? Do you live up north?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 17, 2016, 03:07:34 PM
Percent increase in stiffness is just a number - what really matters is what change is necessary to actually notice it.
I would agree - just as twice as much horsepower doesn't necessarily double a car's top speed.
Quote from: GoCougs on May 18, 2016, 12:44:55 AM
I would agree - just as twice as much horsepower doesn't necessarily double a car's top speed.
Considering that power to overcome drag is a function of speed^3, doubling the power of a drag limited car will never double your theoretical drag limited top speed.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 17, 2016, 09:33:20 PM
Tires are here! Unfortunately, I won't have any time to put them on until this weekend. I'll give the car a wash and take some pictures then.
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Do you mount the tires yourself? Or take them to a mechanic?
Honestly I don't even know how to mount tires by hand. Have only seen it done at the shop my dad works at with on of those machines that pops off and on.
Quote from: SJ_GTI on May 18, 2016, 06:22:35 AM
Do you mount the tires yourself? Or take them to a mechanic?
Honestly I don't even know how to mount tires by hand. Have only seen it done at the shop my dad works at with on of those machines that pops off and on.
Do you mean mounting the tire to the rim or putting the finished product on the car? If it's the former, I have no clue but thankfully tire rack takes care of the mounting and balancing for you.
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Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 07:40:43 AM
Do you mean mounting the tire to the rim or putting the finished product on the car? If it's the former, I have no clue but thankfully tire rack takes care of the mounting and balancing for you.
I meant the former, I misunderstood your first post (ie: thought you got the tires only, not the tires/wheels combo). :lol:
Quote from: SJ_GTI on May 18, 2016, 06:22:35 AM
Do you mount the tires yourself? Or take them to a mechanic?
Honestly I don't even know how to mount tires by hand. Have only seen it done at the shop my dad works at with on of those machines that pops off and on.
I've only seen it done with truck tires, and the technique used would be hell on any sort of aluminum car wheel.
Oh sorry, got the wheels/tires together. My dad is going to help me do it and has the power tools on hand to make the process a breeze. It'll be a fun little weekend thing for us.
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Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 07:49:46 AM
My dad is going to help me do it and has the power tools on hand to make the process a breeze.
To put new wheels on? You need a jack and a lug wrench
Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 07:49:46 AM
Oh sorry, got the wheels/tires together. My dad is going to help me do it and has the power tools on hand to make the process a breeze. It'll be a fun little weekend thing for us.
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What is this power tools you speak of? :lol:
I change my winter/summer wheels myself but I just use the lug wrench that came with the spare tire in the trunk and a small floor jack (which I think I paid 50 bucks for).
Quote from: Rich on May 18, 2016, 07:52:59 AM
To put new wheels on? You need a jack and a lug wrench
Meh, if you've never done it before its nice to have someone help (and power tools are always easier). I do it myself but my dad is a mechanic so even though I have no mechanical aptitude myself, simple things like wheels and oil changes I can do myself since he made my brothers and I do it ourselves when we were younger.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on May 18, 2016, 07:48:58 AM
I've only seen it done with truck tires, and the technique used would be hell on any sort of aluminum car wheel.
It can be done with car tires (I've done it, albeit with steel wheels), but in my experience it's actually easier with commercial truck wheels, despite the wheel/tire combination weighing 3-4x what a car's does.
Using the lug wrench takes forever. Not sure what it's called, but the tool is attached to an air compressor and the lug nuts just come off
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Get yourself a 4 way lug wrench. Comes in super handy. I only leave it in the Miata for longer trips, but if I had a bigger car, I'd just keep it in there.
An air powered impact wrench is awesome for removing the lug nuts, but make sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the new wheels. Dealing with over-torqued lugnuts is not fun.
Between the brake bleeding and the suspension nightmare I have been SERIOUSLY contemplating getting air tools
Def gotta tighten by hand though
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 18, 2016, 08:08:55 AM
An air powered impact wrench is awesome for removing the lug nuts, but make sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the new wheels. Dealing with over-torqued lugnuts is not fun.
Torque sticks. These things are genius and easier than a torque wrench.
http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/torque-master-torque-sticks-extensions (http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/torque-master-torque-sticks-extensions)
Each flexes under a different torque. You just pick the color/size for the car you're working on and call it good.. Maybe not "perfect" but makes changing wheels quick!
What kind of jacks do people use?
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Quote from: AutobahnSHO on May 18, 2016, 09:11:11 AM
Torque sticks. These things are genius and easier than a torque wrench.
http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/torque-master-torque-sticks-extensions (http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/torque-master-torque-sticks-extensions)
Each flexes under a different torque. You just pick the color/size for the car you're working on and call it good.. Maybe not "perfect" but makes changing wheels quick!
But why? You only get 4-6 different torque settings and it's bulkier than just having a torque wrench.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 11:25:33 AM
What kind of jacks do people use?
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Harbor Freight jack and jack stands. Good enough for my light car.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 11:25:33 AM
What kind of jacks do people use?
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I just bought a cheap one off amazon, it has a 2 ton (4,000 lbs should be enough for most cars) capacity. 3 ton versions tended to be a little more expensive.
When I used to swap snow tires and wheels on my Mazda, I'd just use the jack that came with the spare tire in the trunk.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/91c66caf6b392256f6c01e8ce7ac448a.jpg)
Are these things easier to use than what comes with the car?
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We're quickly approaching Raza-level of wrenching knowledge :lol:
Those are just stands to hold the car up once you've got it in the air. You need a jack still.
Yeah the jack is the pneumatic pumpy thingy to get the car in the air. The stands hold it in place. Do some research to see where the jack and lift points are on your car so you don't end up with a jack stand through your floorboard or something.
Also, never get under the car with just the jack holding it up. Put it on stands and put your wheels under the car just in case.
Quote from: MrH on May 18, 2016, 11:50:46 AM
We're quickly approaching Raza-level of wrenching knowledge :lol:
Those are just stands to hold the car up once you've got it in the air. You need a jack still.
No offense to OP but I figured that would be the case when he said swapping the wheels and tires would be a "fun little weekend thing" for two people. I was just sitting here like "... but swapping wheels and tires takes like 20 min..." :lol:
Guys, it's the Internet. Share your knowledge with me!
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Everyone has to start somewhere. Contrary to urban legend, Mr. H did not know everything when he was born (and says more about himself than his targets in his frentic pursuit for burnz).
You need 3 things to safely lift up and work under a car. The actual jack, which lifts the car up, and then what you posted, which are jackstands (which come in pairs), which hold the car up after you jack it up. I would highly recommend getting a low profile jack as regular jacks and lowered cars don't really mix. My car is about at the limit of what my jack can get under. I'm probably going to get a low profile jack soon.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 12:06:59 PM
Guys, it's the Internet. Share your knowledge with me!
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This is the jack I have:
http://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Lift-F-767-Grey-Profile-Floor/dp/B00BG6IJA0?ie=UTF8&refRID=JG2TG7DVPQE9R10WA08T&ref_=pd_ys_c_rfy_15857511_1 (http://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Lift-F-767-Grey-Profile-Floor/dp/B00BG6IJA0?ie=UTF8&refRID=JG2TG7DVPQE9R10WA08T&ref_=pd_ys_c_rfy_15857511_1)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81JRev%2BR2EL._SL1500_.jpg)
IMHO the quality is iffy but it works. You could probably find better if you are more discerning.
I also own a few of the stands you posted above, but have never really needed them.
FWIW, the one I have is a low profile jack stand.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 18, 2016, 12:17:33 PM
Everyone has to start somewhere. Contrary to urban legend, Mr. H did not know everything when he was born (and says more about himself than his targets in his frentic pursuit for burnz).
You need 3 things to safely lift up and work under a car. The actual jack, which lifts the car up, and then what you posted, which are jackstands (which come in pairs), which hold the car up after you jack it up. I would highly recommend getting a low profile jack as regular jacks and lowered cars don't really mix. My car is about at the limit of what my jack can get under. I'm probably going to get a low profile jack soon.
Still waiting on number 3... :lol:
Quote from: Xer0 on May 18, 2016, 12:06:59 PM
Guys, it's the Internet. Share your knowledge with me!
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For just replacing your wheels, you only need two jack stands (though 4 is always nice) and a decent jack. If you have harbor freight around you, go there and pick up one of their aluminum jacks if you think you'll ever need to move it, or a steel jack if it's just going to sit in the garage. The steel ones are beefy but really heavy and not really good for moving around.
I like using jack pads (rubber things that go on the jack stand tops) to prevent scratching of the under body, as well as for additional grip. Again, find out the appropriate places to jack and place the stands for your car. Usually it's on the pinch weld on the sides of the car, but there may be other places too (there's one between the front wheels of my car and on the diff). Also, once the car is on stands, make sure you shake the fuck out of the car to make sure it's on there nice and sturdy.
Anywho, for wheel swapping, you can just raise one side of the car and use two jack stands to hold the car up while swapping. Since you've got a FWD car you can just leave it in gear and leave the handbrake on and pop the wheels off. Since my car is RWD I have to loosen the lug nuts on the ground first for the front wheels before jacking it up (same with torquing... have to do it on the ground).
I use Harbor Freight's torque wrenches as well. While they're probably not accurate, they're going to be a lot better than the "torque sticks" that Will posted (no offense).
Two jack stands.
But yeah, never get under a car without jack stands. Not all that uncommon for people to die that way. Car slips off the jack and crushes them. Happened to a friend of mine from elementary school.
I'd recommend getting a jack with a wider head thingy. Honestly a harbour freight jack and stands will be enough like Rags said.
Edit also your tires might be directional so make sure you check that before putting them on the car
FWIW, this one (also on amazon) looks identical to mine, but just different color logo. I would guess both were made in the same Chinese factory. Only 29.99 (incl free prime shipping).
http://smile.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Hydraulic-Trolley-Floor-Heavy/dp/B013FA4XA4/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=414RYDcT-%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0BWAWX839THRA1KTF7K5 (http://smile.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Hydraulic-Trolley-Floor-Heavy/dp/B013FA4XA4/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=414RYDcT-%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0BWAWX839THRA1KTF7K5)
That being said, going to a local harbor freight is not a bad idea in case something breaks after you bought it.
Quote from: 68_427 on May 18, 2016, 12:26:54 PM
I'd recommend getting a jack with a wider head thingy. Honestly a harbour freight jack and stands will be enough like Rags said.
Yeah, the ones with the tiny pucks suck. They put a lot more pressure on the car and can bend up yo pinch weldzzz.
If you have a Subaru you're fucked in that regard anyways
FWIW, I just checked, and harbor freight appears to sell the exact same floor jacks as above, but again in a different color, but also 29.99. :lol:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-trolley-jack-68783.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-trolley-jack-68783.html)
Quote from: SJ_GTI on May 18, 2016, 12:20:37 PM
FWIW, the one I have is a low profile jack stand.
Still waiting on number 3... :lol:
The jack + 2 jackstands (hence the "which come in pairs")
Do you guys use jackstands to change wheels/tires? I use them if I have to go under the car or if I need to get all 4 wheels in the air, but you don't have to crawl under the vehicle to change a wheel.
I'd avoid putting the car up on 4 jack stands if at all possible. Very rarely is it necessary, and it's much more likely to fall, especially jacking the car up and down.
Quote from: MX793 on May 18, 2016, 12:41:47 PM
Do you guys use jackstands to change wheels/tires? I use them if I have to go under the car or if I need to get all 4 wheels in the air, but you don't have to crawl under the vehicle to change a wheel.
I do not. I put wheel chocks under the wheels on the opposite side and I also do what cookie monster said (loosen all the bolts before lifting the car, so all I do once the car is lifted is take off the wheel and put the other one on...very little wrenching). I got the jacks in case I ever need to get under the car, but so far I have not needed to do it.
Quote from: MX793 on May 18, 2016, 12:41:47 PM
Do you guys use jackstands to change wheels/tires? I use them if I have to go under the car or if I need to get all 4 wheels in the air, but you don't have to crawl under the vehicle to change a wheel.
Usually, after I take a wheel off, I just leave the wheel under the car while I work on whatever I have to. Free jackstand!
I have never had more than one set of wheels. I rotate tires front to back so I just do one side, then the other.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 18, 2016, 01:15:31 PM
I have never had more than one set of wheels. I rotate tires front to back so I just do one side, then the other.
Same here.
And if I have to get under a car, I usually use ramps instead of Jack stands unless it's something that requires taking weight off the wheels. Actually, I usually just pay somebody to work on the car because I hate crawling under vehicles. Did enough of that through high school and college.
Quote from: MX793 on May 18, 2016, 12:41:47 PM
Do you guys use jackstands to change wheels/tires? I use them if I have to go under the car or if I need to get all 4 wheels in the air, but you don't have to crawl under the vehicle to change a wheel.
For changing wheels and tires, no. Typically go around the vehicle, break the lugs off, then just jack up each corner and swap. It takes more time to put it on stands than it does to swap the wheels and tires.
Quote from: MrH on May 18, 2016, 11:50:46 AM
We're quickly approaching Raza-level of wrenching knowledge :lol:
Those are just stands to hold the car up once you've got it in the air. You need a jack still.
Xero has been autocrossing though
Quote from: Rich on May 18, 2016, 01:47:25 PM
Xero has been autocrossing though
Boom! Winning.
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Quote from: MrH on May 18, 2016, 12:23:09 PM
Two jack stands.
But yeah, never get under a car without jack stands. Not all that uncommon for people to die that way. Car slips off the jack and crushes them. Happened to a friend of mine from elementary school.
One pair of jack stands in my garage don't always lock down all the way, which I found out when one of them collapse while I was under the car. That was one of the scariest moments of my life. :mask: Now I double/triple check them.
You should replace it bro
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 18, 2016, 08:08:55 AM
An air powered impact wrench is awesome for removing the lug nuts, but make sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the new wheels. Dealing with over-torqued lugnuts is not fun.
This. I've had brake rotors warped because of over torquing. One time, some shop over torqued my lugs so badly that the next shop to work on my car actually sheared off the stud and had to replace it. :mask:
EDIT: Better sentence structure.
Quote from: MrH on May 18, 2016, 12:23:09 PM
Two jack stands.
But yeah, never get under a car without jack stands. Not all that uncommon for people to die that way. Car slips off the jack and crushes them. Happened to a friend of mine from elementary school.
Or the jack itself fails.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on May 18, 2016, 12:55:00 PM
I'd avoid putting the car up on 4 jack stands if at all possible. Very rarely is it necessary, and it's much more likely to fall, especially jacking the car up and down.
Yeah, this is valid. Back when I had the E21, it actually slipped off the jack stands once when I was raising or lowering (can't remember) the opposite end. Granted, I should have found better places for the jack stands, but it's possible. Ideally, the jack will roll instead of the car sliding on the stands, but if the caster wheels aren't facing the right direction, that doesn't always go as planned.
At least no one was under the car when it happened though. They still would have been ok (slipped onto the fuel tank, which got punctured, but still left survivable space underneath), but it would have been scary as fuck!
Quote from: MX793 on May 18, 2016, 01:23:58 PM
Same here.
And if I have to get under a car, I usually use ramps instead of Jack stands unless it's something that requires taking weight off the wheels. Actually, I usually just pay somebody to work on the car because I hate crawling under vehicles. Did enough of that through high school and college.
Ramps are great for oil changes, but obviously aren't very useful for swapping tires... :lol:
I've jacked up a car to put ramps under the tires before. :lol: Sometimes the cement garage floor is too slippery and the ramps just slide when you try to drive up.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 18, 2016, 09:09:08 PM
I've jacked up a car to put ramps under the tires before. :lol: Sometimes the cement garage floor is too slippery and the ramps just slide when you try to drive up.
This is my biggest gripe with my ramps in my garage. I have to Rube Goldberg a setup with the cement lip between the garage slab and my driveway.
And DO NOT just stick a jack under any piece of metal. I put it front center on Legacy and didn't realize it was just a radiator mount...
Somehow it still lifted the car, but the it pushed the whole radiator and hood mount an inch higher (and I was lucky the radiator didn't bust).
Torque sticks
Quote from: Cookie Monster on May 18, 2016, 11:29:37 AM
But why? You only get 4-6 different torque settings and it's bulkier than just having a torque wrench.
Because I only need 2 settings?? (One Impreza, one Odyssey) Those are for airgun use ONLY.
And I don't buy them, the army DIY shop has them. :thumbsup:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on May 19, 2016, 04:57:15 AM
And DO NOT just stick a jack under any piece of metal. I put it front center on Legacy and didn't realize it was just a radiator mount...
Somehow it still lifted the car, but the it pushed the whole radiator and hood mount an inch higher (and I was lucky the radiator didn't bust).
Front and rear difs are the best places on older Subarus
Quote from: MrH on May 18, 2016, 11:50:46 AM
We're quickly approaching Raza-level of wrenching knowledge :lol:
Those are just stands to hold the car up once you've got it in the air. You need a jack still.
:lol:
Even I know the difference between a jack and jack stands, though. And I know not to get under a car held up only by a jack.
Whoa. Just compared wheels and tires. My old, blown out rim/tire was 43.4 lbs total. New rim/tire is 36.4 lbs. this is gonna be awesome
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That's a good overall weight. You'll feel it.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on May 19, 2016, 04:57:15 AM
And DO NOT just stick a jack under any piece of metal. I put it front center on Legacy and didn't realize it was just a radiator mount...
Somehow it still lifted the car, but the it pushed the whole radiator and hood mount an inch higher (and I was lucky the radiator didn't bust).
Yeah, definitely look up official jacking points in the manual.
Okay, so I've put on about 75 miles on so far so here are some impressions and pictures.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/9d4d420accef9e348d95ad28c5414878.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/b9bbaa353d86ffc09ceafca869ac08a6.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/5ec3422714a6bcb5d9e2d465731d4469.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/7169fbdffdd8fb4745f63847e13c6ebd.jpg)
The wheels look great and I think a lot better than my old set. Didn't realize that they don't come with center caps though, so I'll need to figure something out for that.
But my god, the tires just grip. I didn't think the difference would be this pronounced but everything that the old set would chirp and squeal for, these guys just take like its nothing. I can power out of a turn much sooner and can feel the car pulling me through which is super cool. Pretty excited to see what the auto x feel is like too. I'm gonna try and get one track day this year in too.
Otherwise, the tires are a little bit louder in daily driving and I can feel road imperfections more. Not a big deal but noticeable.
Next on the upgrade docket is the sway bar and I'm starting to think tints would be a good idea.
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They look really good.
Quote from: Raza on May 22, 2016, 06:58:13 AM
They look really good.
+1
I wonder how those compare to my DWS06s. Yea, Honda chooses some really shitty OEM tires. Replacing mine transformed my car too.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 22, 2016, 07:01:03 AM
+1
I wonder how those compare to my DWS06s. Yea, Honda chooses some really shitty OEM tires. Replacing mine transformed my car too.
Old tires were Pilot AS3s which are in the same ballpark as the DWS. OEMs though are absolutely garbage and the car felt great when I switched. Worst part about it is that the OEM tires are often the most expensive.
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A max performance summer tire is at another level from even hi-po all-seasons. At least when the temperatures are warmer.
And OEMs very frequently fit sub-par tires that also happen to be more expensive than better-performing options. The Eagle RS-As that came on my Mazda weren't awful until you considered the price. Snow traction was pretty poor for an all season, but dry grip was decent. You could get a comparable tire for 2/3s the price or less, and a much better tire for the same price. Tire Rack ranks them 12th out of 15 in the hi-po A/S category. The Bridgestones that came on my last Mustang were absolute garbage. At least they weren't terribly expensive. Tire Rack actually ranks them best in their class (a class of 3), but their class is a low performance tier that I wouldn't deem suitable for a sporty car like a Mustang. The P-zeros on my current Mustang are at least an appropriate performance class, but they rate in the bottom 3rd of the segment and cost as much as or more than much of the upper 3rd of the segment.
I've always wondered why OEM tires are generally so bad, especially for the cost. What's the reasoning?
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The price to OEMs is much lower, I'm sure.
There could be contractual entanglements as well.
My Civic came with Eagle RS-As. Garbage. Though they did teach me a lot about traction management.
Seems like a savvy move to make the OEM tires higher priced so people who go to the dealership and just get them replaced will net higher profits for the tire company.
Yeah, basically tire suppliers sell them at huge volumes at a break even or even at a slight loss, and then charge out the ass for selling them to tire shops, in hopes people just naturally go to the OEM rubber. They make all their money there.
So something looks to be faulty with the TPSM system as it's not detecting the tires. I went to the Honda dealership and they want $160 just to diagnose the issue. Seems like a ripoff. I'll be calling Tire Rack today and see if there's something I need to do to activate the sensors or if they have some preferred dealer that will do it for me. Worse comes to worst, I can just buy a diagnostic tool since a quick look on Amazon shows they are the price the dealership wants to charge for their service anyway.
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You frequently need to program new sensors to sync with the car. Sometimes this functionality requires a programmer (a dealership would have it), other times there's some sequence you can do with the car (cycle ignition while holding a button or whatever). Either way, Honda dealership should know how to sync the sensors.
My old tires that I ordered from the Rack were fine without needing to be programmed so I assumed these would be too. Is 160 reasonable to do this?
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Quote from: Xer0 on May 26, 2016, 08:14:37 AM
My old tires that I ordered from the Rack were fine without needing to be programmed so I assumed these would be too. Is 160 reasonable to do this?
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Did you just change tires on the stock rims last time or did you get new rims?
Did you reuse the factory sensors last time or did you get new sensors?
I'm assuming you definitely have new sensors this time since you got a pre-mounted set of wheels and tires.
When I bought new wheels/tires/sensors from tire rack for my last car, they called me to let me know that I'd probably need to have my dealer sync the sensors if I didn't have the tool to do it myself. I lucked out since the sensors already came at the correct frequency (or whatever) to work with my car without needing to be programmed.
Quote from: MX793 on May 26, 2016, 08:28:43 AM
Did you just change tires on the stock rims last time or did you get new rims?
Did you reuse the factory sensors last time or did you get new sensors?
I'm assuming you definitely have new sensors this time since you got a pre-mounted set of wheels and tires.
When I bought new wheels/tires/sensors from tire rack for my last car, they called me to let me know that I'd probably need to have my dealer sync the sensors if I didn't have the tool to do it myself. I lucked out since the sensors already came at the correct frequency (or whatever) to work with my car without needing to be programmed.
It was whole new rims/tires/sensors since my old set of rims were stolen. Judging from your experience, I just got lucky the first go around too.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 26, 2016, 08:32:54 AM
It was whole new rims/tires/sensors since my old set of rims were stolen. Judging from your experience, I just got lucky the first go around too.
Check the Si forums to see what it takes to program/sync the sensors. Might be able to do it without any special tools or equipment. $160 for what is probably a 15 minute job is a ripoff.
Quote from: Xer0 on May 26, 2016, 07:33:37 AM
So something looks to be faulty with the TPSM system as it's not detecting the tires. I went to the Honda dealership and they want $160 just to diagnose the issue. Seems like a ripoff. I'll be calling Tire Rack today and see if there's something I need to do to activate the sensors or if they have some preferred dealer that will do it for me. Worse comes to worst, I can just buy a diagnostic tool since a quick look on Amazon shows they are the price the dealership wants to charge for their service anyway.
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Having the tool to do it yourself is nice if you ever want to get new a wheels/tires package again, plus you might be able to sell it with the car 9or separately) down the road.
It's been a hot minute since I've updated everyone and I'm sure the suspense on if Xer0 was able to program his TPSM has been killer, so here's an update. TPSM has been programmed. I did it at Firestone for only $20, which seems right for a 15ish minute job. Got the car aligned too.
This is good timing because I have an autocross event on Sunday and not being able to deactivate traction control would suck. Just bought a new gopro suction mount too so hope to get some good footage.
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You can't deactivate the TCS if the TPMS is throwing a code?
Nope, it's really annoying.
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Just finished my 4th run and being bumped up to STX in a Civic is brutal. Running in a class with FRS/BRZ is rough and even though I'm putting up great times, I'm still quite a bit off all is the frissbies.
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Are your local Frisbees performing pretty well? The Utah region hasn't seen any really impressive ones yet. They've all kind of struggled to do as well as they seem to be capable of.
Yeah, they're putting up solid numbers around here. We actually have a good amount of them.
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Seem to be a mixed bag around here. A really good driver in a well set-up car can run well, but they aren't the autocross weapon that turns an average driver into a hero.
Okay, so the event is in the bag. I've included a video if anyone is curious.
https://www.facebook.com/1076795451/videos/10208129021078066/?pnref=story (https://www.facebook.com/1076795451/videos/10208129021078066/?pnref=story)
Car still understeers too much, I need to get that sway bar installed ASAP. Although, looking at the video and remembering the day, there is still a lot that I can improve. I wasn't aggressive enough in a few of the slaloms and was too quick to power out of turns when I didn't have enough traction so my tires were just spinning. I was also powering into turns a bit too much too.
Right now on the upcoming list of upgrades I'll be installing a bigger rear sway bar and replacing the downpipe with a Full Racing unit. With a tune, people are reporting about 20hp just from the DP and another 5 or so from the exhaust. I'll probably try and finish the season first and get better rather then use mods as a crutch, but that's the current plan.
I definitely recommend improving yourself as a driver before going crazy with the mods. Most cars can go seconds faster than people expect with just a driver mod. Get rid of any bad understeer with that new swaybar and then just drive drive drive!
TBH, now that the CSi is in HS (best PAX outside of Jr kart), and something of an overdog in that class, I would limit mods to what stock/street allows. But that's just me.
I also second the opinion of working on the driver mod first, then work on the car. I did 2 season on horrible stock V6 Mustang tires (600+ TW). It was frustrating giving up time because I was horribly under-tired, but it forced me to improve my form. I reached the point where I was nipping at the heels of guys with similar experience levels but running much better tires. I would complain at the end of events about how bad my tires were and had several very seasoned, and very fast, drivers tell me that I was actually doing myself a service and that jumping right to the stickiest tires available results in drivers using sticky tires as a crutch. When I finally got a set of decent (not great) tires, I was a much better driver for it.
Unfortunately, short of uninstalling the CAI and HFP suspension, I'm not getting back into HS. Instead, I'll be looking at this season as a goal to catch some of the much much better cars as there is still a lot of time to find in the civic. From worst to best run, I shaved almost 4 seconds
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Always nice to see improvement. Yesterday, my 5 runs were all within .6, excluding cone penalties, with 3rd run being my best.
Nice, consistency is always good. Are you planning on keeping the Stang pretty much stock?
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I may consider some Koni yellows, but nothing imminent. I prefer to play in the Street/Stock class, so anything I'd do would be minimal. My focus now is just figuring out the car as it is, then figure out what, if anything, I'd change. Yesterday was really my first time pushing the car hard since it was very wet at my first auto-x with it a couple weeks ago.
Everyone I've talked to pretty much recommends Koni yellow's for everything. The conversation usually goes tires than the Koni's. Are those things really that good?
Never tried them, but seems like everybody swears by them.
Quote from: SJ_GTI on May 16, 2016, 07:17:11 AM
Yikes, that looks painful.
I have either been really lucky or the wheels I bought are really strong, because so far I have not damaged any wheels since I have owned my car despite the tire being in rubber band territory (255/35R19).
I knew as soon as I posted this I had jinxed myself. :lol: Gonna post a different thread, but FWIW:
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d85/tonylieske/Bent%20Wheel%20-%201_zpssxkxiqbf.jpg)
Good old NE roads :lol:
Koni Yellows are a fucking PITA to get assembled. For your $$$$ a decent set of damping adjustable coilovers would be better.
Quote from: SJ_GTI on June 25, 2016, 08:34:38 AM
I knew as soon as I posted this I had jinxed myself. :lol: Gonna post a different thread, but FWIW:
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d85/tonylieske/Bent%20Wheel%20-%201_zpssxkxiqbf.jpg)
On the bright side, it's an upgrade excuse, which personally, I always take advantage of.
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An interesting thought has started brewing in my mind in regards to El Civic.
The original plan was to install a DP+exhaust, thicker RSB, and probably upgrade to the Koni's with some better brake pads in a year. Probably get tints installed on the car sometime in that period too. All told, probably about $2500-3500 in additional parts/labor. I had originally planned on keeping this car for a decent amount of time so the sunk costs didn't really worry me.
However, I recently just got a new job that is paying a decent amount more and the Civic is holding onto its value really really well. I don't get it, considering its kind of a weird sporty compact half step, but it works out the best for me. At 17k miles, my year Si is still worth like 17-18k per KBB, and I've seen some as high as 20k with more miles on cars.com and autotrader, which is insane for a car that I paid like 21.5k out the door for.
All of this adds up to the very real possibility that I will be trading in the Civic next year on something else, right now the front runners being a Miata RF or a 228. Both priced as I want come in at 35-39k, and with the BMW I'll probably need to special order it so might even do European delivery, but thats still at least a year out. Because of this, I have decided to stop with the mod dreams and just enjoy the car as is for the next year/year and a half.
Miata RF is going to be $35k-$39k? It'll be a lot cheaper than that.
I like where your head is at. 228 is awesome too.
Not a bad plan. 228i will be a nice upgrade. I'm in it for the long haul... enjoying the hell out of mine, and just not able to stomach the risk (E90 335i, any GTI), operating cost (G37 sedan.... 18 MPG premium at best), or added cost without benefit (new Civic or 3) to move any time soon. If I absolutely had to move it would probably be to your car.
Quote from: MrH on July 13, 2016, 11:15:22 AM
Miata RF is going to be $35k-$39k? It'll be a lot cheaper than that.
I like where your head is at. 228 is awesome too.
I'm guessing the Miata RF will be 35k all in. Built like I want it, the ND is like 31k and I'm expecting the RF to be a 2k premium. With taxes and all I'm pegging it at 35. The BMW is the 39k high end.
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The BRZ/FRS twins and 128i are the cars to beat in STX, so I'm not surprised you're having a tough time. I' skipping the class all together, my car just can't compete in my current trim, so it isn't worth it.
Okay, question. So I'm currently left with 7 rim/tire combinations, 4 summers that are currently on the car and 3 all seasons that aren't. My original plan was just to buy a replacement rim for the busted one as a winter set, but, no one sells this rim anymore as far as I can tell. In lieu of this, I figured I'd buy two new rims shod with winter tires for the fronts and use the all seasons for the rear. Since the front wheels do everything in my little rice rocket, I'm assuming it's okay?
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Putting snows only on the fronts (putting significantly grippier tires on the front than the rear in general) will result in a tailhappy car. Having known people who have run that sort of tire combination and spun into the ditch, I probably wouldn't recommend it.
You can't find a wheel one off? That's usually not that tough :confused:
Tire manufacturers recommend putting the best tires on the back, even for FWD cars for the reason MX793 mentioned. It is safer to have the car understeer than oversteer.
Quote from: RomanChariot on September 30, 2016, 12:19:34 PM
Tire manufacturers recommend putting the best tires on the back, even for FWD cars for the reason MX793 mentioned. It is safer to have the car understeer than oversteer.
Fuck that.
Will never.
Evrr
I run RS3's in the winter, no problems at all.
The best solution would be to put one snow tire on the front and one snow tire on the opposite wheel at the back. So if you have one front right, then put the other back left. All seasons in the other two positions. You'll be fine.
You should buy the extra wheels and snow tires I still have in the garage from my miata days :lol:
Quote from: Raza on September 30, 2016, 02:50:16 PM
The best solution would be to put one snow tire on the front and one snow tire on the opposite wheel at the back. So if you have one front right, then put the other back left. All seasons in the other two positions. You'll be fine.
Very logicfail.
Quote from: MX793 on September 30, 2016, 11:42:45 AM
Putting snows only on the fronts (putting significantly grippier tires on the front than the rear in general) will result in a tailhappy car. Having known people who have run that sort of tire combination and spun into the ditch, I probably wouldn't recommend it.
It's funny, I've been trying to combat this cars annoying understeer forever and here is the solution!
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Quote from: Raza on September 30, 2016, 02:50:16 PM
The best solution would be to put one snow tire on the front and one snow tire on the opposite wheel at the back. So if you have one front right, then put the other back left. All seasons in the other two positions. You'll be fine.
:rockon: Optimal driving peace of mind
Quote from: Raza on September 30, 2016, 02:50:16 PM
The best solution would be to put one snow tire on the front and one snow tire on the opposite wheel at the back. So if you have one front right, then put the other back left. All seasons in the other two positions. You'll be fine.
That's kind of like how early, 2-channel ABS worked.
Quote from: Raza on September 30, 2016, 02:50:16 PM
The best solution would be to put one snow tire on the front and one snow tire on the opposite wheel at the back. So if you have one front right, then put the other back left. All seasons in the other two positions. You'll be fine.
No.
Snow tire on left front, rain tire on right front, summer or r-compound on left rear, mountain rated off road tire on right rear.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on October 03, 2016, 03:47:40 PM
No.
Snow tire on left front, rain tire on right front, summer or r-compound on left rear, mountain rated off road tire on right rear.
Sounds a little like the Tercel my wife had when we got married. Three different brands of tires in 2 different sizes.
Quote from: RomanChariot on October 03, 2016, 04:21:46 PM
Sounds a little like the Tercel my wife had when we got married. Three different brands of tires in 2 different sizes.
No traction control, no ABS, no problem :thumbsup:
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 03, 2016, 07:20:46 PM
No traction control, no ABS, no problem :thumbsup:
No power windows or power steering. That car didn't even have a radio when she bought it. It did have AC though.
Okay, so winter update. I just bought two separate rims in the same size/width and put the same type of all seasons on them as there were on my spare set. So far, no issues at all and going from summers to all seasons really highlighted how much of a difference tires made. Anyway, car looks ghetto AF but it's only going to be like this until March so not a big deal.
The other thing running through my head is current upgrade plan. Originally, I had wanted to get rid of the Civic by early next year and upgrade into something nicer like a 2 series. But, everything I've read points to a 2GC coming out sometime in 2019 and I would vastly prefer 4 to 2 doors. So that gives me another year, at least, with the Civic. That means upgrades are back on the table. Right now what I'm thinking is what I've always been thinking:
Full Racing 3" Downpipe and Exhaust
22mm RSB
Rear engine mount
With install, that's about $2k. I'll keep all the old parts around and reinstall when it's time to sell the Civic. This will at least make it more lively until I finally do get rid of it.
Choose exhaust carefully.... Civic gets loud fast
Sounds like a solid plan though