Subaru Crosstrek - Costing me a lot in repairs

Started by veeman, January 11, 2020, 07:36:26 AM

veeman

My Crosstrek has 80,000 miles on it.  Had to replace both front CV axles at 75,000 miles (clicking sound whenever I turned).  Yesterday I found out I have to replace both rear wheel bearings (airplane noise coming from car above 40 mph and got louder the faster the car's speed was).  $1300 is the bill this time.  Yikes.  Kind of early for these things to fail but by reading some Subaru forums, it's not that unusual at this mileage. I sometimes take local road speed bumps or railroad tracks at a higher speed than I should so I think that's the culprit.  Don't get air on the speed bumps or railroad tracks or anything and don't have the brakes engaged when I'm over them.  Probably take them at 15 mph instead of 5 mph.  I thought the car could handle it.  I did the same thing with my prior Sonata and never had any issues.  I couldn't do that with my prior Beetle because the car would bottom out.  The Diesel engine was too heavy for that car.  It felt like it would break apart on any pothole. 

I got a little less than a year to pay off the Crosstrek.  Overall it's been good to me.  I'll be taking those speed bumps at 5 mph going forward.  Defeated :frown:

Soup DeVille

$1300 for wheel bearings seems a bit on the ridiculous side.

I'm disappointed this hasn't gone better for you, older Subarus were known fir their longevity and relatively low ownership costs.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

FoMoJo

You need to find yourself a new mechanic.  Likely lots of small shops around with good reputations.
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

veeman

Checking on Subaru forums it seems to be a pretty standard dealership price for replacing both rear wheel bearings on a Crosstrek.  Independent I could save up to $400.  That's what I read anyways.  This dealership has been good to me though (I think).  They messed up when they replaced only one CV front axle a month ago and I still heard the clicking sound.  I called them on the way home and they replaced the other one the next day free of charge including cost of the part.

I'm not sure if the clutch failure several months ago and recent CV front axle and rear wheel bearings failures are due to my own incompetence or intrinsic issues with the car itself.  I think both.  A bit too aggressive and hence sloppy with the shifter/clutch in the past and taking speed bumps/railroad tracks too fast.  I've come to the realization the Crosstrek is an economy car with economy parts, just with a slight lift.   I bought the base model car for under 25 grand and these repairs have overall costed me about 5 thousand over 3 years, 80 thousand miles.  Not good.  Not horrible.

I'd like to still keep it for a few more years.  At this rate I'll hit 200 thousand miles in 4 to 5 years.  Hopefully it'll last. 

My brother in laws (pleural) keep goading me to get a Tesla Model 3.  I do want one but I don't want one.  I just don't want to deal with the range anxiety issues, level 2 charging issues in my home (I rarely park inside our garage), and I really enjoy shifting. 

MX793

Parts wear out with use, not age.  80K on wheel bearings doesn't sound unreasonable.  I believe I had to replace bearings on my Mazda at roughly that mileage.  Losing a clutch at less than 100K is pretty ridiculous, but I don't know your driving style.  If you're racking up over 25k miles per year, I have to assume you do a lot of highway cruising, in which case there shouldn't be much shifting or starting from a stop, the latter being what really wears a clutch out, in your normal routine.  75k out of CV joints in a modern car seems a bit low, but not completely unheard of.  If the boots were damaged, that can prompt a more premature failure.

Was talking with my cousins over the holidays and one of them mentioned they had quite a few issues with a Crosstrek they owned.  I've heard enough stories from people I know or from the web that lead me to think that newer (past 15 years) Subarus really aren't super reliable.  Average at best.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

Soup DeVille

I can't think of a vehicle I've owned that didn't gat at least 100-120,000 on a set of wheel bearings, and I can't think of any where it was over around a $200 fix. Even the '70s Caddys, in their own right testaments to cost cutting and entropy weren't known for eating bearings like that. I've changed 'em anyways, because its a ten minute job and a $20 part during a brake job, but in any case the old ones always looked serviceable.

Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

AutobahnSHO

Quote from: MX793 on January 12, 2020, 07:17:48 AM
Subarus really aren't super reliable.  Average at best.

Which is sad.

My 97 Legacy had minimal issues, other than if I had fixed whatever was wrong rather than drive it wouldn't have had to put an engine in....

I bought it for $2500, paid for A/C ($1300) and engine swap after 5 years ($2600) plus regular maintenance and put more than 125k miles on it. Drove it from 2008 (including SC to UT and back once)- and sold it for $1200 in 2015.   
Will

MX793

Quote from: Soup DeVille on January 12, 2020, 08:27:20 AM
I can't think of a vehicle I've owned that didn't gat at least 100-120,000 on a set of wheel bearings, and I can't think of any where it was over around a $200 fix. Even the '70s Caddys, in their own right testaments to cost cutting and entropy weren't known for eating bearings like that. I've changed 'em anyways, because its a ten minute job and a $20 part during a brake job, but in any case the old ones always looked serviceable.



I've seen a number fail in the high 5-figures.  It's certainly on the earlier end of the spectrum for a bearing that doesn't have a manufacturing defect, but not way outside of what I'd consider "normal" life.  Environment and use makes some difference, as well.  Lower profile tires, bad roads, vehicles used in competition subjected to high cornering loads....

The price does indeed seem steep, though,  I think my Mazda was like $300 per wheel bearing at the dealer, including labor.  Granted, that was like 8 years ago and I'm sure labor rates have gone up some, but not more than doubled.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

MX793

Quote from: AutobahnSHO on January 12, 2020, 08:31:00 AM
Which is sad.

My 97 Legacy had minimal issues, other than if I had fixed whatever was wrong rather than drive it wouldn't have had to put an engine in....

I bought it for $2500, paid for A/C ($1300) and engine swap after 5 years ($2600) plus regular maintenance and put more than 125k miles on it. Drove it from 2008 (including SC to UT and back once)- and sold it for $1200 in 2015.   

90s Legacies have a good reputation.  Imprezas, of any era, less so.  And the newer 2.5L motors (2000s) are known to have head gasket issues.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

Soup DeVille

Quote from: MX793 on January 12, 2020, 08:39:07 AM
I've seen a number fail in the high 5-figures.  It's certainly on the earlier end of the spectrum for a bearing that doesn't have a manufacturing defect, but not way outside of what I'd consider "normal" life.  Environment and use makes some difference, as well.  Lower profile tires, bad roads, vehicles used in competition subjected to high cornering loads....

The price does indeed seem steep, though,  I think my Mazda was like $300 per wheel bearing at the dealer, including labor.  Granted, that was like 8 years ago and I'm sure labor rates have gone up some, but not more than doubled.

$300/wheel at a dealership seems reasonable-ish.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

veeman

I think the combination of winter salt road climate, me taking curbs and speed bumps too fast, and economy compact with a lift architecture has led to the early front CV axle and rear wheel bearing failures.  Few things irritate me more in everyday driving than speed bumps on local residential roads.  I know why the residents demand them but they irritate me nonetheless.  Also unnecessarily stop signs on a road without any intersection in the area of the stop sign.  So instead of slowing down from 30 mph to 5 mph as most drivers do at the speed bump, I just let off the gas and coast from 30 mph to 15-20 mph and then resume speed after the speed bump. My prior Beetle couldn't handle that.  The car felt like it would fall apart.  The current Crosstrek felt like it could.  No bottoming out or bad noise.  But I think I ended up being wrong about it not causing premature damage. 

veeman

Subaru repairs seem to be a bit more expensive than other mainstreamer brands but not as expensive as VW.  That's my feeling but I don't know that for sure.  Seems that way.

shp4man

A Raptor would handle the speed bumps pretty well.  :muffin:

CaminoRacer

Quote from: Soup DeVille on January 12, 2020, 08:27:20 AM
I can't think of a vehicle I've owned that didn't gat at least 100-120,000 on a set of wheel bearings, and I can't think of any where it was over around a $200 fix. Even the '70s Caddys, in their own right testaments to cost cutting and entropy weren't known for eating bearings like that. I've changed 'em anyways, because its a ten minute job and a $20 part during a brake job, but in any case the old ones always looked serviceable.



I'm actually a fan of the El Camino's brake & bearing combo. Sure it's a bit more work to replace the rotor, but then the bearings are always in good shape.
2020 BMW 330i, 1969 El Camino, 2017 Bolt EV

Soup DeVille

Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 12, 2020, 01:49:08 PM
I'm actually a fan of the El Camino's brake & bearing combo. Sure it's a bit more work to replace the rotor, but then the bearings are always in good shape.

I wanna say one of the Devilles had that setup too. Maybe even they had the same parts.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

CaminoRacer

Quote from: Soup DeVille on January 12, 2020, 02:36:46 PM
I wanna say one of the Devilles had that setup too. Maybe even they had the same parts.

Good chance
2020 BMW 330i, 1969 El Camino, 2017 Bolt EV

veeman

Quote from: shp4man on January 12, 2020, 01:27:38 PM
A Raptor would handle the speed bumps pretty well.  :muffin:

Yeah I know :lol:  Too expensive, too freaking wide (probably wouldn't fit in the entrance to my work parking garage), too much a gas hog, no stick shift option. 

My only real option in stock form I think is a Wrangler if I want to get a stick shift.  I already passed on that once already.  Highway ride and handling sucks. 

MX793

Quote from: veeman on January 12, 2020, 09:37:49 AM
I think the combination of winter salt road climate, me taking curbs and speed bumps too fast, and economy compact with a lift architecture has led to the early front CV axle and rear wheel bearing failures.  Few things irritate me more in everyday driving than speed bumps on local residential roads.  I know why the residents demand them but they irritate me nonetheless.  Also unnecessarily stop signs on a road without any intersection in the area of the stop sign.  So instead of slowing down from 30 mph to 5 mph as most drivers do at the speed bump, I just let off the gas and coast from 30 mph to 15-20 mph and then resume speed after the speed bump. My prior Beetle couldn't handle that.  The car felt like it would fall apart.  The current Crosstrek felt like it could.  No bottoming out or bad noise.  But I think I ended up being wrong about it not causing premature damage. 

I'm not sure speed bumps really contributed much to any of these failures.  The Crosstrek is a front-heavy vehicle.  If a wheel bearing was to fail from driving over speed bumps and railroad tracks too fast, it would be the front bearings.  CV joints don't really bear much brunt from bumps (non-structural as far as the suspension is concerned).  Unless you were like catching air off the bumps while flooring it so the tires spun up and then hit the ground spinning...
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

veeman

Quote from: MX793 on January 12, 2020, 08:42:09 PM
I'm not sure speed bumps really contributed much to any of these failures.  The Crosstrek is a front-heavy vehicle.  If a wheel bearing was to fail from driving over speed bumps and railroad tracks too fast, it would be the front bearings.  CV joints don't really bear much brunt from bumps (non-structural as far as the suspension is concerned).  Unless you were like catching air off the bumps while flooring it so the tires spun up and then hit the ground spinning...

Definitely wasn't catching air and definitely no brakes or gas pedal over speed bumps and railroad tracks.  Just coasting at @ 15-20mph.  Maybe it's just a Subaru issue.  Subaru forums indicate it's a common problem, front CV axles and rear wheel bearings.  Still defeated though.  Gonna take them slower. 

Speed_Racer

I am iffy on Subarus. My parents have owned a few - their '91 Legacy ate its transmission right outside of warranty. Their '01 Outback Sport was reliable but it devoured struts. My brother's '15 Outback is having problems with his center stack screen.

MrH

There is a level of complexity with permanent AWD systems that Accords and Camrys don't have to deal with.  I'm mostly worried about the CVTs they're using more than anything else.  They've been really hit or miss so far.
2023 Ford Lightning Lariat ER
2019 Acura RDX SH-AWD
2023 BRZ Limited

Previous: '02 Mazda Protege5, '08 Mazda Miata, '05 Toyota Tacoma, '09 Honda Element, '13 Subaru BRZ, '14 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec 5.0, '15 Toyota 4Runner SR5, '18 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0t, '01 Honda S2000, '20 Subaru Outback XT, '23 Chevy Bolt EUV

Soup DeVille

Quote from: MrH on January 13, 2020, 11:56:24 AM
There is a level of complexity with permanent AWD systems that Accords and Camrys don't have to deal with.  I'm mostly worried about the CVTs they're using more than anything else.  They've been really hit or miss so far.

Which would, theoretically, reduce the stress in the front CV joints.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

r0tor

Meh, my neighbors Forester had to be almost completely rebuilt after a couple years of towing an extremely small fishing boat... Head gasket, bearings, shocks, cv joints...

I think Subaru reliability is ridiculously overrated
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee No Speed -- 2004 Mazda RX8 6 speed -- 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia All Speed

FoMoJo

Just scratched Forester off my list of vehicles we'll be cross shopping in a couple months. :lol:
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

AutobahnSHO

Quote from: r0tor on January 13, 2020, 12:32:57 PM
I think Subaru reliability is ridiculously overrated

Old ones were pretty bullet proof. True story I blew the radiator hose on my 78 wagon on the highway and drove it like that for a month or so. It was stupid cold in the winter in Wyoming, and the beater had a tiny motor that was practically air cooled (spare tire sat horizontally next to the carberator LOL) but still.

OH plus we beat the snot out of that car off-roading it too. Had to pay for a muffler repair; the battery wasn't tied down and had to get it jumped one time- we caught some air, we heard a loud SPARK!!! and the motor just died. 
Will

GoCougs

Quote from: Soup DeVille on January 12, 2020, 08:56:08 AM
$300/wheel at a dealership seems reasonable-ish.

The bearing itself probably costs that much (on many cars these days as it's actually a sealed hub thingy, not just a simple standalone tapered bearing of old). Plus dealing with AWD adds labor too. I've had to replace front wheel bearings on the G and that cost is in the ballpark.

2o6

Quote from: GoCougs on January 19, 2020, 10:57:17 AM
The bearing itself probably costs that much (on many cars these days as it's actually a sealed hub thingy, not just a simple standalone tapered bearing of old). Plus dealing with AWD adds labor too. I've had to replace front wheel bearings on the G and that cost is in the ballpark.

This - a lot of bearings on rear wheels are impossible to press in and require new hubs.