So I decided the FJ was too comfortable, too heavy and had 600 too many cc's for me.
(http://i.imgur.com/aFPqyC5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sMuzY4O.jpg)
Yes, I still have the FJ. Yes, I still need to sell it. Yes, I still can't ride. No, I don't know what I'm doing.
:lol:
That'll be fun on the highway.
It's not that bad on the highway. :huh:
Dope. What year is it? Appears to be in great condition.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 14, 2016, 08:32:27 PM
Dope. What year is it? Appears to be in great condition.
'09, 1300 miles, supposedly never dropped, but it has new plastics (Acerbis) with Acerbis headlight.
It has an FMF programmer but a no-name exhaust so I might get a full FMF system if I can find out how to tune the programmer. Apparently it's kind of lean right now since it backfires a bit on decel.
Also, the previous owner was short so he slid the forks up in the triples and lowered the rear somehow so I have to figure out how to undo that and get it sprung for my weight (he is 140 lb).
And it needs new tires soon (original OEM tires on there from '08 :mask: ) and I want to get a seat and a dirt wheelset for it to go dirt biking at some point.
I think you should ask your money back, that's a weird looking RC51 :huh:
:lol:
It should backfire on decel. If you want less popping you'll have to buy a more efficient muffler. No ACV on this correct?
Brap braaaaap.
Quote from: 68_427 on August 14, 2016, 10:57:55 PM
It should backfire on decel. If you want less popping you'll have to buy a more efficient muffler. No ACV on this correct?
Backfire on decel is almost always a sign the bike is running lean AFAIK
Is it backfiring or just popping? Popping can just be due to unburnt fuel hitting the hot exhaust pipe. Backfiring is definitely caused by a lean mixture or retarded ignition timing.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 15, 2016, 09:56:11 AM
Is it backfiring or just popping? Popping can just be due to unburnt fuel hitting the hot exhaust pipe. Backfiring is definitely caused by a lean mixture or retarded ignition timing.
The unburnt fuel hitting the exhaust pipe is usually caused by lean mixture as well, thus either way it's a lean mixture issue :lol:
Although I'm not sure how you'd have a AF mixture issue with a piggyback controller. Unless you have a terrible map on it.
Time to do wheelies and ride sidewalks and jump curbs and run away from the cops on trail.
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 15, 2016, 09:58:29 AM
The unburnt fuel hitting the exhaust pipe is usually caused by lean mixture as well, thus either way it's a lean mixture issue :lol:
Although I'm not sure how you'd have a AF mixture issue with a piggyback controller. Unless you have a terrible map on it.
If it's lean, why is there unburnt fuel in the exhaust? I'm asking because I'm curious.
I think it may just be popping from the air injection system, which injects air from the air box into the head where the exhaust runners are, before the header. That, combined with a free flow exhaust, causes a lot of popping.
Also, to your second point, I agree. FMF is a fuel adder, so I don't know how it'd be running that lean if it's got any sort of map on it, unless the exhaust is so free that the added fuel is still not enough and it's still running lean.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 15, 2016, 11:46:23 AM
If it's lean, why is there unburnt fuel in the exhaust? I'm asking because I'm curious.
I think it may just be popping from the air injection system, which injects air from the air box into the head where the exhaust runners are, before the header. That, combined with a free flow exhaust, causes a lot of popping.
Also, to your second point, I agree. FMF is a fuel adder, so I don't know how it'd be running that lean if it's got any sort of map on it, unless the exhaust is so free that the added fuel is still not enough and it's still running lean.
I'm almost sure you and I had this discussion about why lean = fuel in exhaust on FB a while back :lol:
From what I recall, essentially it's way too lean in the cylinder for the fuel to fully combust so it actually gets sucked out into the exhaust where it combusts.
But yeah with a fuel controller you shouldn't really be getting much popping. Sounds like it's not injecting enough fuel.
Hmm, I'll have to do more reading into it.
I'll pull the AIS out first and see what happens. The exhaust on there is actually a Delta Barrel 4 exhaust that costs close to $500 so I think I'll leave that on there.
BTW, there are kart tracks here that let you ride supermotos on them. $60/day at the Sonoma kart tracks. :rockon:
So... GPR makes a steering stabilizer for the WR250R/X. Might get one of those.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 15, 2016, 08:35:40 PM
So... GPR makes a steering stabilizer for the WR250R/X. Might get one of those.
Is that the same thing as a steering damper? Isn't that for preventing tank slappers?
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 15, 2016, 08:37:18 PM
Is that the same thing as a steering damper? Isn't that for preventing tank slappers?
Yeah, but the bike is so light I'm thinking it might be good to have one anyways. Plus apparently it's useful offroad.
I want to learn how to pop wheelies on this bike so it might also help to have it if I put the front down weird. :lol:
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 15, 2016, 09:58:29 AM
The unburnt fuel hitting the exhaust pipe is usually caused by lean mixture as well, thus either way it's a lean mixture issue :lol:
Although I'm not sure how you'd have a AF mixture issue with a piggyback controller. Unless you have a terrible map on it.
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 15, 2016, 11:55:20 AM
I'm almost sure you and I had this discussion about why lean = fuel in exhaust on FB a while back :lol:
From what I recall, essentially it's way too lean in the cylinder for the fuel to fully combust so it actually gets sucked out into the exhaust where it combusts.
But yeah with a fuel controller you shouldn't really be getting much popping. Sounds like it's not injecting enough fuel.
That's what I said on FB last night too :lol:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 15, 2016, 08:41:08 PM
Yeah, but the bike is so light I'm thinking it might be good to have one anyways. Plus apparently it's useful offroad.
I want to learn how to pop wheelies on this bike so it might also help to have it if I put the front down weird. :lol:
Super useful off road. I'd like to have one some day. Great for when you hit a log or rock funny so the bars don't instantly twist out of your hands and down you go.
Though slick tires are probably your real limiting factor off road. A stabilizer isn't going to keep your front end from washing out.
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 16, 2016, 01:19:56 PM
Super useful off road. I'd like to have one some day. Great for when you hit a log or rock funny so the bars don't instantly twist out of your hands and down you go.
Though slick tires are probably your real limiting factor off road. A stabilizer isn't going to keep your front end from washing out.
Nah, I'm planning on getting a set of dirt wheels and tires off of a WR250R. The stabilizer will work both on road and off road anyways.
I just emailed a CL ad about a set of dirt wheels so we'll see how that plays out. Not too hopeful of getting it but w/e.
Damn, no go on the wheels... Oh well.
Would be nice to have two sets of wheels.
Yeah, I'm going to keep looking. No way am I putting 17" dirt tires on my SM wheels. :nono:
That would look a little funky.
Welcome to the wire wheel club btw :ohyeah:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 18, 2016, 01:45:15 PM
Welcome to the wire wheel club btw :ohyeah:
Thanks. :lol:
Wire wheels on an SM look so nice IMO. They don't look quite right with the cast wheels.
I've decided I need an SM as well. Eventually.
Hell yeah. :rockon:
If I were to get a street bike, it would probably be a SM style too. Or "adventure" if I decided I really wanted to do long hauls. I can't see myself on a crotch rocket. I like the flick ability and off road ability of dirtbikes. Granted, I've never ridden an actual street bike, but, I'm allowed to have preferences, right? :mask:
Wat Rags should've bought for SM:
(http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20B/KTM%20990R%20Supermoto%2009.jpg)
I just wanna do hoodrat shit wit my friends
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 19, 2016, 10:54:52 AM
Wat Rags should've bought for SM:
(http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20B/KTM%20990R%20Supermoto%2009.jpg)
Why, so the engine could explode before I even get to the first valve check on the WR? :devil: :lol:
My friend came by and dropped off the bike:
(http://i.imgur.com/GqnRrwc.jpg)
You can see all four of my vehicles (or parts of them) in this picture:
(http://i.imgur.com/x6uMXZt.jpg)
(the wheels and tires are for the Miata, and the box of parts is for the F4 :lol: ).
(http://i.imgur.com/u1ns7FT.jpg)
That's such a good lookin bike.
Thanks! I really like the Acerbis front end the previous owner put on.
Also, the bike and its controls are so light I can pull the clutch in with my still weak left hand. If I had the gear and wouldn't get in trouble I'd go ride it now. :lol:
Hell yeah. Most dirtbike controls I've experienced are fairly light, especially on smaller bikes. Only tough ones I've run into is my buddy's '94 KX500...but those probably haven't been replaced or lubed in years. :lol:
I can tell 1 finger clutch up wheelies will be easy... at least the clutch up part. :lol:
Also, the throttle response on it feels so good. Just the way the motor revs when you give it some gas feels just right (sounds weird, I know).
Yeah, I'm usually running one or two fingers on the clutch. One finger is plenty for tricky climbs. Can fully engage/disengage. I prefer two if I'm blasting faster on more open trails, but one finger is super nice in technical sections where you wanna have good grip on the bars. Plus you can just powershift on the ups, so... :rockon:
Is that motor FI?
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 19, 2016, 11:00:55 PM
Yeah, I'm usually running one or two fingers on the clutch. One finger is plenty for tricky climbs. Can fully engage/disengage. I prefer two if I'm blasting faster on more open trails, but one finger is super nice in technical sections where you wanna have good grip on the bars. Plus you can just powershift on the ups, so... :rockon:
Is that motor FI?
Yeah, having the grip is nice. I'm used to three finger clutching on the FJ and other street bikes so it'll be a change for sure.
I can't even pull the clutch in on the FJ since it's so freaking heavy compared to the dainty WR. :lol:
Also, yeah it's FI and a 6 speed. I think it's the only supermoto with FI and a 6 speed that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and isn't a maintenance nightmare (KTM...). Valve adjustments are every 26k miles. :lol:
Nice. I haven't experienced an FI motor between my legs yet. Hopefully next summer after an arm and a leg (...KTM). :lol:
Or.... WR250R? :lol:
If you can swing a KTM and aren't scared off by its potential maintenance issues, I don't think the WR is even in the same region in terms of performance. I just value fun and reliability far more than outright performance.
I'd consider it, but if I can afford it, I really want a dedicated offroad/Enduro style bike for sure. I heard the latest YZ250F off road (or whatever the non-MX version is) is pretty good, but I'd love to try a KTM.
First mod ordered: CustomLED flasher unit.
The PO bought some nice LED turn signals, but didn't opt to buy the flasher unit to slow down the flashes. :facepalm:
Luckily it's plug and play so it's fine. What's not fine is he also decided to not opt for the OEM connectors when he bought the light kit (I got his receipts) which means he more than likely just cut the stock wiring harness. :rage:
I need to take the lights apart and see how they're attached to the wiring harness. I might have to buy a couple of OEM connectors online as well and cut/solder them back on... sigh.
Also just ordered some turn signal mounts since the front signals are kind of crooked right now and just mounted into plastic, as well as some under bar mirrors (the guy didn't give me the stock mirrors and the mirror on there now is a bicycle mirror I think).
OK, thankfully the previous owner just cut the OEM turn signals off but left the connector attached to the main harness, so I didn't have to buy new connectors. He did a pretty crappy job, though. The front turn signals weren't even soldered and everything was just twisted and wrapped in electrical tape. I took all the tape off, soldered everything together and double heatshrinked the wires to make sure they'd be protected.
I still have to test everything but I'm pretty sure it's good to go.
Not even crimped, just twisted? He liked to live on the wild side.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 21, 2016, 05:23:37 AM
Not even crimped, just twisted? He liked to live on the wild side.
Yeah, twisted and then electrical taped over. I just pulled them apart.
At least the rears had the bullet crimp connectors but I still removed those and soldered them.
So I just got insurance for the WR. I dropped collision (it's a dirt bike...) and got a $100 deductible on comprehensive, kept uninsured motorist coverage and upped liability to $100k (not sure how I'd do that much damage on a 27 HP bike, but still nice to have). Premium came out to $20/mo or $121/6 mo. :praise:
When the insurance agent applied the same coverages that the FJ has to the WR, minus collision, it came out to $12/mo so I decided to up the coverage a bit more.
Why drop collision if you're mostly gonna be running it on the street? Or are you thinking of using this mostly off road once you get some raaaaamz & tires?
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 23, 2016, 12:21:53 PM
Why drop collision if you're mostly gonna be running it on the street? Or are you thinking of using this mostly off road once you get some raaaaamz & tires?
Because replacement plastics are like $300 max from Acerbis if I bin it. Plus it's a dirt bike. It's designed to be dropped and slid around. Adding collision would increase my premiums and leave me with a sizable deductible anyways. Hell, when I low sided the FJ, my deductible was $1k and I ended up buying all the parts for less than that, so I ended up not using it.
It's got 27 hp as well... hopefully I can control it and not run it into anything. :lol:
True true. They are definitely more attuned to being dumped and doing minimal/no damage. It seems to take a lot to really fuck up a dirt bike beyond snapping a lever or something.
I didn't bother with collision either. Unless it's totaled, I'm gonna fix anything myself anyway. And if it's totalled, I'm just out of luck. :lol:
I just rode the bike for the first time!
I'm in no way allowed to but I couldn't resist it. Hand is still pretty weak but it was strong enough to pull the very light clutch on the WR so I said fuck it and went anyways. The foot doctor said I was good to ride/drive so I just threw my boots on and it felt fine the whole ride.
The bike is SO much fun. I don't know if it's because I haven't ridden in a while but it definitely feels like it has way more than 27 hp. Or maybe I'm not used to the torque all being so down low in the RPM range. Either way it definitely has enough pick up around town. It only starts to really lose steam after 60 mph or so, but it still cruises at 60+ without a problem.
I can't get over how light this bike is. It just wants to fall into turns. I took a video of my maiden voyage on it but it's just a couple minutes of me going "hehehehehehe" the whole time so I don't think you guys would want to watch it. :lol:
Things that need to be addressed: suspension is way too soft, rear brake pedal is too high, and I still need to figure out the popping/backfiring thing. It sounds like the AIS thing that the FJ has, but sometimes it pops louder than the farting noise the FJ makes so I don't know what that's about. Also, while the motor was cold there was definitely a bit of stumbling going on down low. I should have let it warm up like I do normally, so that shouldn't really be a big issue.
Now the only question that remains is if I can stand riding it on the highway for any given amount of time. The engine itself is quite smooth but I'm more worried about ergos/wind protection/seat comfort. I'll address the seat soon with a Seat Concepts tall seat, and wind protection is similar to a naked bike (none), so I'm hoping it won't be too bad.
The problem with a light bike with poor aero is that you will get blown all over the road by crosswinds or from the wakes of passing/oncoming trucks.
And the suspension is supposed to be soft. It's an off-road bike with over a foot of suspension travel front and rear.
Quote from: MX793 on August 23, 2016, 02:43:36 PM
The problem with a light bike with poor aero is that you will get blown all over the road by crosswinds or from the wakes of passing/oncoming trucks.
And the suspension is supposed to be soft. It's an off-road bike with over a foot of suspension travel front and rear.
No, this is too soft, like bottom out all the time soft. It is sprung for a 140 lb rider, and the way the guy lowered the rear was to just take all the preload out so the shock just sags down. I need to crank up the preload to stiffen it back up and also get some ride height back (don't have a stand to adjust the forks though so I'm waiting till I can do that).
I'll try upping the preload and then maybe just get new springs if I need to. Again, soft is fine, but blowing through 10" of suspension soft is not fine.
Also, this might be just because it's the first time I've ridden it but I really like being able to rev out gears on city streets and not be doing a billion miles per hour. It's like a Miata. :lol:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 23, 2016, 02:49:47 PM
No, this is too soft, like bottom out all the time soft. It is sprung for a 140 lb rider, and the way the guy lowered the rear was to just take all the preload out so the shock just sags down. I need to crank up the preload to stiffen it back up and also get some ride height back (don't have a stand to adjust the forks though so I'm waiting till I can do that).
I'll try upping the preload and then maybe just get new springs if I need to. Again, soft is fine, but blowing through 10" of suspension soft is not fine.
Or, lose some weight fatty
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 23, 2016, 03:45:02 PM
Or, lose some weight fatty
:lol:
I don't plan on going back to being 140 lb any time soon. Hopefully around 180 would be good.
Quote from: MX793 on August 23, 2016, 02:43:36 PM
The problem with a light bike with poor aero is that you will get blown all over the road by crosswinds or from the wakes of passing/oncoming trucks.
Yup. Unless you're on the gas, you're bound to get blown all over. I'm guessing the WR weighs like 250lb? My bike is 260ish plus fuel and whenever I have to ride on the shoulder or road between trails or something, I'm getting blown all over once I'm over 45-50 if there's a decent breeze.
But yeah, 250s are light, flickable bikes. Crotch rockets don't quite have that same flick ability since they're designed more for longer, high speed corners. Dirtbikes are meant to do a 180-degree, 10' radius turn or dodge obstacle after obstacle with minimal effort.
WR is around 300 lb wet. Hopefully a bit less with the lighter exhaust. The EXUP valve is also gone and I'll be removing AIS so hopefully it'll be closer to 10 lb off whatever the stock weight is.
That's not bad. What does your street bike weigh, by comparison?
460-470 wet. :mask:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 23, 2016, 04:47:29 PM
460-470 wet. :mask:
Damn son. I suppose most street bikes end up being around that, eh? What with their much larger engines and suuuuch.
I bet with bags and luggage, the WR would be a bit more planted for longer highway use. Still doesn't account for the wind in your face, though. Put a windshield on that bish. :lol:
If I can go on this road trip I'm planning, I'll be getting a luggage rack and soft bags for the WR, but I definitely won't be commuting on it that way. That would ruin my street cred. :lol:
Yeah, even Ninja 300s are about 370-380lb, so supermotos are in a class of their own, and the WR is considered a heavy bike. :lol:
As for the wind protection, I actually don't mind it at all. Other than getting hit by bugs, I like the lack of a windshield just because on the FJ it blocked out all the wind except for a tiny stream that would hit the top of my head and cause a ton of buffeting. At least with the lack of any wind protection it all feels and sounds the same.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 23, 2016, 05:04:01 PM
If I can go on this road trip I'm planning, I'll be getting a luggage rack and soft bags for the WR, but I definitely won't be commuting on it that way. That would ruin my street cred. :lol:
Yeah, even Ninja 300s are about 370-380lb, so supermotos are in a class of their own, and the WR is considered a heavy bike. :lol:
As for the wind protection, I actually don't mind it at all. Other than getting hit by bugs, I like the lack of a windshield just because on the FJ it blocked out all the wind except for a tiny stream that would hit the top of my head and cause a ton of buffeting. At least with the lack of any wind protection it all feels and sounds the same.
That's valid. Throw some ear plugs in and you're golden. Whenever I get above like 40-45 on open road, my helmet sun visor starts to try ripping my helmet off. Nice neck workout. Big difference from a street helmet. 😂
Graves AIS block off plate ordered. :rockon:
Installed some more stuff today. The front turn signals were ghetto mounted into a piece of plastic so I got some actual turn signal brackets. Unfortunately, the turn signal bolts were too big for the brackets so I had to drill them out, but when I was drilling them out the drill bit caught and bent the shit out of the brackets. Took a lot of bending and hammering to get them back, but eh, dirt bike. :praise: :lol:
(http://i.imgur.com/xSNCLbr.jpg)
Also installed the mirrors. Unfortunately (again), the aftermarket bar wouldn't allow the bar clamps to fit since it's thicker than stock. I could get the left side on with the regular bar clamp, but on the right side there was no way it'd fit, so I just got a longer bolt for the master cylinder on the bottom and cut the clamp part off the mirror mount and mounted it that way. Seems to work fine. Again, dirt bike. :lol:
(http://i.imgur.com/DVAhF6M.jpg)
Thankfully the LED flasher unit works fine. It's actually the same exact unit that I put in my F4i. Seems like there a ton of part compatibility across a lot of Japanese manufacturers. Must be the same OEM supplier I guess.
Well, I took the bike out again today. The headlight was working fine when I left, but as soon as I used the turn signal, it blew. I realized halfway through my ride that I had no headlight or turn signals. After I got back home, I checked the fuse box, and the headlight fuse was blown. Tried it again with the spare fuse and blew that one too. Ended up raiding the FJ for its 3 fuses (sorry FJ :( ) till I pinpointed the problem (I think) to the new metal bracket somehow shorting the left front turn signal. I ended up putting a plastic spacer in between the bracket and signal and they seem to be working fine now.
I also don't know what's wrong with the LED flasher unit. Once I plugged everything in it stopped flashing so I put the stock one back in. Maybe it blew up but I don't see how it could considering the fuse blew...
Did the stock flasher work?
I'm using a normal flasher from autozone (30 yr old stock one finally bit the dust :lol: ) and it works fine with my rear LED lights.
Yeah, the stock flasher works, just blinks way too fast. I'll reach out to the LED flasher company and see if they'll exchange it.
My lights must have a resistor built in
Yeah a lot of them do. My Motodynamic flushmount LED's and integrated tail light came with resistors so I didn't have to touch the flasher relay.
Well, I don't feel comfortable rolling on 8 year old tires so I bought some Michelin Pilot Street tires. $230 for the set from Revzilla. :rockon:
Rode around some really nice neighborhoods today and got lost, then found my way back home and rode through my high school's campus. I promptly got kicked out but oh well. :lol:
(http://i.imgur.com/3YekMhe.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BpoDPOS.jpg)
And yes, I rode down the stairs because dirtbike. :praise:
Dirtbikes are basically big, motorized downhill bicycles. They do everything. :rockon:
Damn schools actually look like that over there?
weird
Quote from: 68_427 on August 26, 2016, 05:58:31 AM
Damn schools actually look like that over there?
weird
Right? My HS was an ex mining building turned school. All my schools were totally enclosed boxes. "Campus" didn't make sense to me til college. Then again, we don't have nice weather for a sold chunk of the school year, so an enclosed box just makes sense.
We don't have snow that we need to be shielded from so we can walk out in the open all day. :lol:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 26, 2016, 09:37:33 AM
We don't have snow that we need to be shielded from so we can walk out in the open all day. :lol:
:rage:
Recess in the winter was a blast. Take all your gear to school, then you can play on the seemingly giant snowbanks they make from plowing the parking lot. Do some king of the hill, make some sweet butt or foot slides. Maybe a fort.
I don't think they let kids play on the banks anymore, though. :rolleyes:
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 26, 2016, 10:17:41 AM
:rage:
Recess in the winter was a blast. Take all your gear to school, then you can play on the seemingly giant snowbanks they make from plowing the parking lot. Do some king of the hill, make some sweet butt or foot slides. Maybe a fort.
I don't think they let kids play on the banks anymore, though. :rolleyes:
When the snow piles got really high, they wouldn't let us play on them. Probably because some kid got pushed off a 12 foot bank and got hurt or something. There were hills on the playground that were steep enough to sled down. And snowball fights.
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 26, 2016, 10:17:41 AM
:rage:
Recess in the winter was a blast. Take all your gear to school, then you can play on the seemingly giant snowbanks they make from plowing the parking lot. Do some king of the hill, make some sweet butt or foot slides. Maybe a fort.
I don't think they let kids play on the banks anymore, though. :rolleyes:
Don't get me wrong, I kind of wish I grew up in a place that snowed like that. Would have been pretty fun.
Now though, I'm spoiled by year round riding weather. :devil: :lol:`
Quote from: MX793 on August 26, 2016, 11:11:16 AM
When the snow piles got really high, they wouldn't let us play on them. Probably because some kid got pushed off a 12 foot bank and got hurt or something. There were hills on the playground that were steep enough to sled down. And snowball fights.
Throwing snowballs is against county ordinances here in Utah. :facepalm:
In Kentucky I don't think we had recess outside during the winter. And if there was snow, school was closed anyway so we could sled all day. :lol:
Oops
(http://i.imgur.com/Fy6fvBZ.jpg)
Damn I dropped it a second time today. Extra klutzy today lol.
Second time happened because I raised the ride height and so the bike leans way over on the side stand. I put 2 2x4's under the stand to get it to stand straight while doing an oil change, and then I was fiddling with something in the front. I turn the bars to the right and down it went again. :facepalm:
Broke my folding chair and put some scratches on the plastics and stickers this time. Oh well, dirt bike.
Ordered a new front brake lever too because it's too bent up this time. Only $18 for a Motion Pro one.
Otherwise, did the oil change, raised the ride height and lubed the chain. I just want to go ride now.
But did you order a longer side stand?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on August 27, 2016, 08:01:44 PM
But did you order a longer side stand?
Nah, the side stand is fine. Just leans over a lot and I wanted it level for draining the oil.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 27, 2016, 08:05:33 PM
Nah, the side stand is fine. Just leans over a lot and I wanted it level for draining the oil.
So dude, WTF is up? You were riding a 600 or 650cc? street bike and crashed, now you have a 250 Enduro and ride on the street? I'm thinking the enduro isn't safe on California freeways.
Like maybe get a standard type bike, not that I keep up with that sort of thing, but just curious.
Quote from: shp4man on August 27, 2016, 09:19:24 PM
So dude, WTF is up? You were riding a 600 or 650cc? street bike and crashed, now you have a 250 Enduro and ride on the street? I'm thinking the enduro isn't safe on California freeways.
Like maybe get a standard type bike, not that I keep up with that sort of thing, but just curious.
I'm replacing my 847 cc touring bike with a 250 cc supermoto. It'll do 65-70 easy on the highway.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 27, 2016, 09:21:26 PM
I'm replacing my 847 cc touring bike with a 250 cc supermoto. It'll do 65-70 easy on the highway.
I ride here, too. Will it do 90?
Quote from: shp4man on August 27, 2016, 09:23:44 PM
I ride here, too. Will it do 90?
Supposedly top speed is around 95 but I don't think it'll be happy doing it. :lol:
I think it's safe to say if Rag was planning on riding the bike on the freeway much if at all, he bought the wrong bike
:huh:
Freeway sucks anyway.
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 28, 2016, 08:38:28 AM
I think it's safe to say if Rag was planning on riding the bike on the freeway much if at all, he bought the wrong bike
:huh:
I think it's safe to say I'll be fine. :huh:
And yeah I'm going to be commuting on it so freeway every day.
FML
Bike slid off the stand while I was installing the rear wheel. Cracked the throttle tube. I just ordered an aluminum quick turn tube and new grips.
If you have this much trouble keeping the rubber side down when the bike is stationary, maybe you should reconsider riding it.
Quote from: MX793 on August 28, 2016, 07:15:40 PM
If you have this much trouble keeping the rubber side down when the bike is stationary, maybe you should reconsider riding it.
:lol:
My lack of two fully functioning hands, coupled with the high ride height and light weight means it wants to constantly fall over. The FJ was much easier to work on with its spools and center stand. Never dropped that or the F4i once while working on them.
I was trying to get the rear wheel back in when the bike just slid straight off the stand. The pads on the stand are pretty useless.
Rode on the highway today. Bike is more than capable of it. 65-70 mph all day easy.
Just because I know Rags will see it here in this thread...
http://bringatrailer.com/2016/08/28/one-owner-w-cold-ac-1986-toyota-4runner/
Quote from: MrH on August 29, 2016, 02:26:12 PM
Just because I know Rags will see it here in this thread...
http://bringatrailer.com/2016/08/28/one-owner-w-cold-ac-1986-toyota-4runner/
:lol:
That thing looks awesome, but price is a little high (then again, I think I got a deal on my 4Runner).
First commute in the books! :praise:
Bike felt great on the highway. I even passed some people! :lol:
It did feel like it lost power at one point but it came back on real quick. I'll have to look at the video footage and see what's up. I think I need to fiddle with the programmer but I'm waiting till I can get the AIS blockoff plate on there first.
Quote from: SVT_Power on August 28, 2016, 08:38:28 AM
I think it's safe to say if Rag was planning on riding the bike on the freeway much if at all, he bought the wrong bike
:huh:
Meh, dirt bikes are a lot better at being on the road than street bikes are at being on dirt.
Oh, filled up gas today. Cost me $4.03, and gas is $3.08 a gallon. :lol:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 29, 2016, 03:16:21 PM
:lol:
That thing looks awesome, but price is a little high (then again, I think I got a deal on my 4Runner).
It's probably priced appropriately for the current market, but the market on used 4Runners is crazy high anyway.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 30, 2016, 10:48:36 AM
Oh, filled up gas today. Cost me $4.03, and gas is $3.08 a gallon. :lol:
I like to keep a 5-gallon jug of hi-test in the garage to use for all my small engines so I can just dose it all with Seafoam, especially if I didn't get ethanol-free premium.
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 30, 2016, 02:02:53 PM
I like to keep a 5-gallon jug of hi-test in the garage to use for all my small engines so I can just dose it all with Seafoam, especially if I didn't get ethanol-free premium.
I'm definitely not that anal about things, but I also burn off the gas pretty quickly so it doesn't get a chance to really sit around and eat at stuff.
In other news, I found out that there is a kart track about 90 miles away that has a membership for $400/year that lets you ride supermotos. It's free to show up once you're a member. I have a trailer and a supermoto... :mask:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 30, 2016, 10:48:36 AM
Oh, filled up gas today. Cost me $4.03, and gas is $3.08 a gallon. :lol:
How big is the tank? 3 gallons? 2.5?
Quote from: MX793 on August 30, 2016, 04:25:32 PM
How big is the tank? 3 gallons? 2.5?
Just over 2 gallons. I think the fuel light turned on too early or something.
I am tempted to get a 3 gallon tank. They also sell a 4.7 gallon tank but that has a second fuel pump and looks kind of crappy.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 30, 2016, 07:57:57 PM
Just over 2 gallons. I think the fuel light turned on too early or something.
I am tempted to get a 3 gallon tank. They also sell a 4.7 gallon tank but that has a second fuel pump and looks kind of crappy.
So basically you gas up every 80-90 miles.
Quote from: MX793 on August 31, 2016, 05:06:27 AM
So basically you gas up every 80-90 miles.
People say their fuel light comes on around the 90-100 mile mark, so if I wanted to stretch it I could probably go 120 miles.
I'll probably buy the IMS 3 gallon tank soon.
Having a bit of power loss problems on the highway... this is the second time it's happened:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USU-D9RldCM&feature=youtu.be
Might have something to do with the fuel controller.
Weird.
My moped does that. :lol:
From what I'm reading, it's most likely the fuel controller.
Also, I have a 4 day weekend coming up.
Mods to the bike will consist of:
-Fiddling with the controller (going to check that tonight, as well as pull the air box door too)
-Installing the front brake lever (if I don't get around to it tonight)
-Fabbing up a new mount for the right side mirror (it's kind of useless right now)
-Installing the Graves block off plates and removing the AIS
Hopefully I can sort the tuning issues out. It's drinking gas right now because the light came on at 70 miles...
I'm still..... why did you get rid of the FJ?
That said, congrats, and I salute trying a whole raft of different bikes. Hope you can keep the rubber side down.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on September 01, 2016, 06:40:11 AM
I'm still..... why did you get rid of the FJ?
That said, congrats, and I salute trying a whole raft of different bikes. Hope you can keep the rubber side down.
:lol:
Don't worry man, yesterday I sold the FJ and right after I sold it I was like "wait... why did I do that again?".
I just think this bike fits my personality better, if that makes sense. This bike is like my Miata - light, low power, excellent handling, cheap to run, and also probably not the right tool for the job (commuting in both is not the best, but doable). It's been a blast so far, and for what I want it to do (supermoto kart track days, dirt biking, twisties) it checks those boxes better than most other bikes would. Keeping both would have been ideal but that's just too much money tied up in bikes for me at this point. In the future I might get a 5th gen VFR or something, though.
I feel you. You are still at the age where you can get away with stuff like this :lol:
Today I installed the new brake lever, removed the airbox door, installed the Graves AIS kit and adjusted the FMF programmer a bit.
Between those three things the bike feels completely different. Noticeably more power, no backfiring/popping, no weird slow speed stumble/stutter. I freaking love this thing. Plus the intake noise is so much fun to listen to.
Now whenever you explain your riding to your friends you can use "brap braaaap" for everything.
Quote from: giant_mtb on September 01, 2016, 08:01:18 PM
Now whenever you explain your riding to your friends you can use "brap braaaap" for everything.
:lol:
There's an airbox "flapper" on the bike as well, that's designed to reduce intake noise. Basically, it's just more tubing and solenoids and wiring, so tomorrow I'm going to pull all that shit out and clean it up.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on August 24, 2016, 06:03:18 PM
Also installed the mirrors. Unfortunately (again), the aftermarket bar wouldn't allow the bar clamps to fit since it's thicker than stock. I could get the left side on with the regular bar clamp, but on the right side there was no way it'd fit, so I just got a longer bolt for the master cylinder on the bottom and cut the clamp part off the mirror mount and mounted it that way. Seems to work fine. Again, dirt bike. :lol:
(http://i.imgur.com/DVAhF6M.jpg)
So, riding with this mirror setup showed me that the right mirror was too far back and to the right, and I couldn't really see anything without having to lean way back to look into the mirror. I also didn't like how I had such a giant bolt going through the clamp to the master cylinder bracket so I redid the mount.
Before:
(http://i.imgur.com/GqAzsI2.jpg?1)
I found a piece of L angle aluminum in the garage, cut off the L bit and got a tiny piece of flat aluminum to work with to make a bracket of sorts. I filed the edges off and drilled two holes:
(http://i.imgur.com/Gz4uGGz.jpg?2)
This is how it looks now:
(http://i.imgur.com/ktmFmdB.jpg?1)
Turns out the bolt I bought to mount the mirror clamp to the bracket was too short, so I ended up using the giant bolt that was holding the mirror to the master cylinder bracket, and now there's a giant amount of bolt sticking through the other side:
(http://i.imgur.com/pbMN8oA.jpg?1)
Luckily it doesn't come close to hitting anything, including the bar or the starter wires, so I'm just going to leave it like that. I was just going to test fit it today but it was such a bitch to get on and get everything aligned that I'm just going to keep it that way for now, since it doesn't rub anything. Maybe if I get bored in the future I'll get a shorter bolt there.
Position seems to be better, though. I'll be able to tell tomorrow.
Quote from: giant_mtb on September 01, 2016, 08:01:18 PM
Now whenever you explain your riding to your friends you can use "brap braaaap" for everything.
Braaap?
(https://www.liquidlogickayaks.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/LRBR6915RC_2_1140x480.jpg)
Removed the airbox flapper solenoid:
(http://i.imgur.com/L7Zd7wG.jpg?1)
Looks a little cleaner now:
(http://i.imgur.com/g4N6PLr.jpg?1)
I was about to gear up and go for a test ride when USPS dropped off the quick turn throttle and grips that I wasn't expecting to receive for another week! :praise: :rockon:
(http://i.imgur.com/O65v6Vv.jpg?1)
New grips!
I might end up trimming the ends off if I get hand guards... we'll see.
Ok, ended up tinkering with the controls a bit to get them placed properly, then bolted the flapper down so it stays open. Most people seem to JB weld it open or use a self tapping screw but I found that you can drill a hole straight down into the air filter area of the air box so I was able to put a bolt and lock nut in the door to keep it open.
I've also ordered some AC filters that are washable. I'm going to cut a giant hole in the airbox door and put the filter in it.
Foam filters or K&N style?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 02, 2016, 10:32:25 PM
Foam filters or K&N style?
It's a foam filter in there right now. Just going to put a sheet of AC foam in front to help keep any dirt or water out hopefully.
Do you have sticky filter spray too? That's what I put on my pods.
Yeah, I had to remove the filter to fish out a washer I dropped and my hands were covered with sticky stuff.
:winkguy:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on September 02, 2016, 10:29:43 PM
Ok, ended up tinkering with the controls a bit to get them placed properly, then bolted the flapper down so it stays open. Most people seem to JB weld it open or use a self tapping screw but I found that you can drill a hole straight down into the air filter area of the air box so I was able to put a bolt and lock nut in the door to keep it open.
I've also ordered some AC filters that are washable. I'm going to cut a giant hole in the airbox door and put the filter in it.
https://www.amazon.com/Uni-Filter-UFV-6-Foam-Filtered/dp/B0022ZN76K
(http://i.imgur.com/7w7fALI.jpg?1)
Airbox door mod complete! Hopefully I still will have all that sweet intake noise but a bit more protection for the filter.
So I spent a while looking at hand guards online and finally settled on the Acerbis Rally Pro, but for $90 I wasn't sure. My friend sent me a link for some eBay handguard and it turns out it's a knockoff of the Rally Pro handguards for $25. :rockon:
Alright, so now I'm completely confused. You sold your comfy commuter bike for the equivalent of a bike miata. And you're going to essentially autoX and track that. And it's also your DD. And then you also have a F4 as a track bike? So you've sold all semblance of practicality and comfort and made your DD into a track weapon. And you've got another project bike to also turn into a track bike.
This is the exact same thing you did with your miata too :lol:
Quote from: MrH on September 06, 2016, 09:21:08 AM
Alright, so now I'm completely confused. You sold your comfy commuter bike for the equivalent of a bike miata. And you're going to essentially autoX and track that. And it's also your DD. And then you also have a F4 as a track bike? So you've sold all semblance of practicality and comfort and made your DD into a track weapon. And you've got another project bike to also turn into a track bike.
This is the exact same thing you did with your miata too :lol:
(https://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/68783125.jpg)
:lol:
To be honest, I don't know how much actual track time this bike will see, since it's not that powerful and I don't want to wring its neck out constantly. The kart tracks are much, much tighter so it'll feel more at home there.
There is a guy who tracks his WR250X at Thunderhill and is pretty quick on it, but the CBR would be better suited to the big tracks, I think.
This bike will see kart track time, commuting duty, touring rides, and dirt once I can find some dirt wheels for it. Basically a do-it-all kind of bike.
And yes, my choice of giving up the windscreen and heated grips and smoothness of the FJ was not lost on me when I was freezing my ass off on the way to SF today. :lol:
Speaking of the kart track, it looks like I need axle, frame and peg sliders to get on the track. That's like $300 in small plastic parts. :mask:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on September 06, 2016, 12:19:24 PM
Speaking of the kart track, it looks like I need axle, frame and peg sliders to get on the track. That's like $300 in small plastic parts. :mask:
Stop going down and you won't need any of those
Quote from: SVT_Power on September 06, 2016, 12:22:42 PM
Stop going down and you won't need any of those
That's more to protect the track surface than the bike. You should see all of the deep gouges in the asphalt on Tail of the Dragon from people low-siding and their peg and axles tear into the pavement.
Yeah, most tracks, kart or not, require sliders of some sort...
Gas mileage took a hit from 61 mpg to 56. The 56 mpg was all highway and the 61 was twisties, but I added some fuel on the controller to get rid of the popping and backfiring so the lower mpg makes sense.
Handguards are coming today. :rockon:
Hopefully they won't be too difficult to install.
I also ordered a Righteous Stunt Clutch. It's an easy-pull clutch lever, which will not only help me do clutch up wheelies, but my hand has been hurting a bit while riding in traffic so having an even lighter clutch will be nice. Good thing I got the handguards to protect that lever (although it's a billet aluminum lever with a lifetime warranty).
Quote from: Cookie Monster on September 09, 2016, 11:48:33 AM
Handguards are coming today. :rockon:
Hopefully they won't be too difficult to install.
I also ordered a Righteous Stunt Clutch. It's an easy-pull clutch lever, which will not only help me do clutch up wheelies, but my hand has been hurting a bit while riding in traffic so having an even lighter clutch will be nice. Good thing I got the handguards to protect that lever (although it's a billet aluminum lever with a lifetime warranty).
Lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects? That probably doesn't cover when rider drops the bike and damages the lever? :huh:
Quote from: SVT_Power on September 09, 2016, 11:54:42 AM
Lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects? That probably doesn't cover when rider drops the bike and damages the lever? :huh:
They cover crashes too.
Hmm. Not that my clutch isn't light enough already, but those are kinda interesting. Plus I'd like a shorty cause even now 2-finger clutching still means ramming the clutch into my third.
Do it! $130 seemed kind of expensive, but it's really not bad considering you get the perch too and it's hand made billet aluminum. I paid $100 for mass produced CRG's on the FJ.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on September 09, 2016, 03:55:15 PM
Do it! $130 seemed kind of expensive, but it's really not bad considering you get the perch too and it's hand made billet aluminum. I paid $100 for mass produced CRG's on the FJ.
Gahhhh maybe next summer. I've only got a couple months (maybe) left in riding season.
Fair enough. You can get all the parts ready to throw on for next summer so it feels like a completely different bike, though. :lol:
I'm looking into a HealTech gear counter as well. I've been spoiled by the gear indicator on the FJ and miss it now. I can live without it, though, so I'll just do some research on it for now. Need seat and tank first.
Who needs a gear counter? You'll get used to it. You'll learn what gear you're in just by how fast you're going and what revs you're at.
:huh:
Do you look at the gear indicator on your stickshift? I'm guessing you know what gear you're in at any given time. Takes a while to get there, but the same will happen on the bike.
Unless you just feel like spending money on gadgets, then I feel you. :lol:
And true about the lever. Maybe I'll buy one over the winter if I have some cash to spend.
Uh... in a car each gear has a different position so it's not like it's hard to tell what gear you're in on an H-pattern shifter.
On a bike the shifter returns back to the same position. Plus I don't have a tach so that makes it even harder to tell what gear I'm in. On the F4i I could tell which gear I was in based on the tach and speed I was going at (6th gear at 6k rpm was around 70 mph), but I can't even do that on the WR.
If I don't have to cut the stock harness anywhere (which I don't think I have to) I might get it.
(http://i.imgur.com/gxuU0x4.jpg)
Chris, if you ever need replacement handguards, look into the eBay sets (unless you knew that already). Seriously, the same as the Acerbis Rally Pro for 1/3 the price. It looks amazing and all the hardware is super nice. Everything went together really well and I'm really happy with the way they turned out. I am going to order a shorter brake lever on eBay because the one on there now is pretty close to the hand guard. I actually had to slide the whole thing in a little bit to get some clearance.
Tomorrow I'll look into getting a low profile lock nut for the rear brake pedal adjuster. I've run out of room to lower the pedal any further because the lock nut on there now is super tall. If I can get a shorter one I will gain a bit of clearance and be able to get the brake pedal lower. I want to try doing wheelies so I need to be able to easily cover the rear brake.
First pair I bought were those style. Couldn't get em to fit properly. Had to go with Moose. They were only like $37.
Really? Interesting.
This is what I ordered
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201570250222
Not sure if yours was different. What was wrong with them?
I dunno, they just weren't the right shape for my bars. Couldn't get em to fit. They were probably just a bad knockoff. But yeah I only paid like $30 for em.
Well, I just ordered a ton of stuff for the WR. :mask:
Once I get those parts in I'm pretty much done with this build, unless something either goes wrong or I break it, or go crazy and do something like a big bore kit.
I still do want to get a dirt wheelset but if I can't, oh well.
Also, I replaced the locknut on the rear brake clevis with a really thin jam nut. That bought me some extra room to lower the pedal. Feels better now but I'll have to go out for a ride to really test it out.
Oh, I also noticed the sight glass was overfilled with oil. I ended up taking about a half a quart out before the level dipped into the sight glass range. The manual says to put in 1.48 quarts. I put in less than 1.5 quarts when I did the oil change and it was still too high and I had to pull a ton out. Either the quart bottles I bought are way off in their markings or the manual is wrong. Other people have had the same issue with the sight glass being reading over filled.
The engine block says "1300cc" stamped on it, which is 1.37 quarts, which is what the manual says is the capacity without replacing the oil filter. Next time I'm just going to fill it till the oil level is in between the two lines on the glass and ride it around and top off as needed.
New part showed up today! Yay for Amazon Sunday deliveries. :rockon:
(http://i.imgur.com/42nRON1.jpg)
IMS 3 gallon tank.
Stock tank and plastics were off in about 30 min, though draining the tank was a pain in the ass. The fuel pump also has to be transferred between the two tanks. Here's a comparison pic side to side:
(http://i.imgur.com/WdzzFgK.jpg)
Installation was pretty straightforward. In fact the hardest part was trying to get the supplied rubber hose onto the charcoal canister crap these CA bikes have. Next weekend I'll be removing that stuff too for extra weight savings (also gets in the way of a lot of skid plates).
It doesn't look terrible installed, though it doesn't look quite as nice as stock either (though nowhere as ugly as that 4.7 gallon tank).
(http://i.imgur.com/ZRNz8W4.jpg)
Main downside, other than the looks and the non-locking gas cap, is that the seat fits like complete shit. I knew this going in but it's still a bummer to see.
(http://i.imgur.com/Wv60kgB.jpg)
Now I need to go get another gas container and some gas to fill this thing up. :rockon:
Well, I went to the gas station to fill the bike up and got irritated with the charcoal canister crap because it kept twisting the rubber vent hose so I just ended up removing the charcoal stuff anyways.
I just have to get a big enough plug to plug the throttle body. Since it's almost midnight and no stores are open I just shoved a bolt into the end of the hose and electrical taped it. :lol:
It'll be fine for tomorrow till I can go get some more rubber plugs.
Today I plugged the throttle body and also realized that my brake light was constantly on from having the rear brake pedal too low. I maxxed out the light adjustment switch as low as it'd go but the brake light still wouldn't turn off, so I ended up having to raise the brake pedal a little bit.
I also installed this:
(http://i.imgur.com/G6Wlqiw.jpg)
It feels amazing. Hard to believe I paid only $30 less for CRG levers when this thing feels so smooth and substantial. Lever pull is so much easier now so I should have less trouble in traffic.
Gas light came on at just under 130 miles. I can get about 150 miles per tank, then. :rockon:
Also, the RSC stunt clutch lever is so easy to use. I love it. No more hand pain in heavy traffic. :praise:
Woohoo! New parts came in today! I got the T-Rex frame and axle sliders, which I was expecting, but when I came home today I found a giant box waiting for me. Turns out it was the Seat Concepts seat! :rockon:
Seat, unfortunately, still fits like shit thanks to the tank. :cry:
I had to kind of squish it into place to get the bolts to fit, but whatever, it's fine.
(http://i.imgur.com/gvJAm4V.jpg)
It's a lot more comfortable than the stock one, and I got the taller seat so there's a bit more distance between the seat and pegs now, which feels great. I can still easily flat foot the bike but any taller and it'd start to get uncomfortable, I think.
Comparison between the stock and SC seat:
(http://i.imgur.com/17xRxPP.jpg)
Also put the sliders on. They're not as nice as the Woodcraft ones I had on the FJ but they will do the job. I just don't like that I'll have to keep taking them off to even adjust the chain.
(http://i.imgur.com/aN94V3H.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aECZOzK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/A2339M4.jpg)
Hopefully the rest of the parts will show up this weekend.
So I was doing some research - apparently the Power Commander V is much, much, much better than the FMF. The FMF has a button and 8 LED lights to let you add various amounts of fuel in various parts of the power band. The PCV lets you get much more granular and allow you to tune the bike in 100 rpm increments, add or subtract fuel, etc, all on a computer instead of just pushing a button. They also sell a PCV with an ignition module to allow you to change timing for only $15 more.
I already have a dyno tuning session scheduled a couple weeks out so I decided to just get the PCV to have the best chance at getting this bike to run perfectly. I'm done with the intake/exhaust mods so getting the tune just right is all that's remaining. I'm going to hopefully be putting a ton of miles on this bike and don't want it to be running incorrectly and decrease its reliability or engine life in any way. As is it kind of bogs on the highway which has been very irritating trying to figure out with 6 cryptic numbers. The tuner also said that he preferred the PCV to get it tuned exactly right.
Another cool thing (that I might get in the future) is the ability to run a quickshifter. The sensor is another $220 or so but plugs right into the expansion port of the PCV.
Anyways, I'm just trying to complete all the mods on this bike so I can enjoy it. Not really planning on spending more money on any other parts now (except SS brake lines when I need new pads). I've still got some peg sliders, brake lever and gear indicator on the way. Should be here tomorrow.
is the PCV QS only upshift or downshift as well?
Quickshifter? That's interesting.
Quote from: SVT_Power on September 16, 2016, 01:23:18 PM
is the PCV QS only upshift or downshift as well?
Only upshift I believe since it can't blip for the downshift.
I don't know why I'd need it on this bike, but it's a lot of fun to play with. I rode a CBR1000RR with one and it was awesome.
I think it's more fun to work the throttle. You can already clutch-less upshift. Getting the twist of the throttle down pat is half the fun of powershifting, IMO. If I was drag racing or tracking, I guess it could be useful, but on the street? Meh.
Granted I didn't even know something like that existed until now, so. :lol:
When I raced MX, I'd just keep the throttle pinned wide-open, pull in the clutch, click into the next gear, and release the clutch. Granted, on asphalt you have a lot more grip than on dirt so that will result in really jerky shifts and possibly some wheelspin.
Quote from: giant_mtb on September 16, 2016, 03:27:25 PM
I think it's more fun to work the throttle. You can already clutch-less upshift. Getting the twist of the throttle down pat is half the fun of powershifting, IMO. If I was drag racing or tracking, I guess it could be useful, but on the street? Meh.
Granted I didn't even know something like that existed until now, so. :lol:
With 27 hp it could be the difference between merging onto the highway successfully and getting splattered in a semi's grill. :mask: :lol:
Quote from: MX793 on September 16, 2016, 03:30:16 PM
When I raced MX, I'd just keep the throttle pinned wide-open, pull in the clutch, click into the next gear, and release the clutch. Granted, on asphalt you have a lot more grip than on dirt so that will result in really jerky shifts and possibly some wheelspin.
I feel like that would be pretty rough on the transmission on the street.
I feel ya. I've got 14.5 air cooled horses, so I know how critical being on the power can be. :lol:
More parts!
Peg sliders (I can't believe I paid $65 for these :facepalm: )
(http://i.imgur.com/oDurStJ.jpg)
ASV brake lever:
(http://i.imgur.com/Xk3LivV.jpg)
HealTech gear indicator (because I apparently can't ride without one :lol: ):
(http://i.imgur.com/WQ0jUGj.jpg)
And I couldn't resist and finally added some stickers to the bike:
(http://i.imgur.com/MMwTm5x.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lvlhnYi.jpg)
Got the Power Commander in! :rockon:
The packaging and build of the PCV is very, very nice. Much nicer than the FMF. They even included alcohol wipes and velcro for mounting and rubber plugs to plug up the expansion ports if you're not going to be using them.
I've dug up my cheap Windows laptop and installed the software on it. I've also downloaded a map another guy with a WR made on a dyno and he has a similar setup as me (airbox mods, same air filter, EXUP/AIS delete, etc). Only difference is he has a full FMF exhaust and I have the full Delta exhaust, but I don't think it's going to be an issue running that map for a couple days before I get it tuned next weekend.
Installed!
(http://i.imgur.com/hhQLhoI.jpg)
Super easy to install. The only thing that took some time was routing the wiring and figuring out where to put the actual box. Dynojet says to zip tie it under the headlight, but since my headlight isn't stock I couldn't do that so I just stuck it on top of the airbox.
I flashed the different map on. Seemed too easy. Hopefully it'll work, but I guess I'll find out on the way to work tomorrow. :mask:
Also, check out how many extra plugs the PCV comes with compared to the FMF:
(http://i.imgur.com/L2UuAhL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5Z2N7Hs.jpg?1)
:wub:
Tune is a bit lean I think, but it's better than when I first got it. There's a bit of backfire on decel in certain gears at a certain RPM. I'm going to ride it this weekend, but I'm not commuting on it next week and I'll get it tuned next weekend so I'm not worried about it.
240 mile ride today. Was not bad at all. I'm planning on a 500 mile ride in two weeks. The bike should be tuned by then and be good to go!
I'll try and change the oil on Friday right before I head off to the dyno on saturday.
Nice dirt bike.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on September 25, 2016, 08:50:34 PM
Nice dirt bike.
Why thank you sire.
The rear brake pedal feels mushy. Rather than just bleed the brake line or replace pads I just bought stainless steel brake lines, new pads and a rear brake clevis. :mask:
Good thing I'm running out of things to do to this bike.
Put a turbo on it?
Got the bike dyno tuned yesterday.
I wish they had shown me a baseline run with the tune it had, but they said the map was very lean and had too much timing. I also had them install a new spark plug just to make sure it was being tuned on a fresh plug. The old plug looked discolored from being too lean anyway.
I also want to ask them for A/F ratios, but overall the bike feels much stronger and smoother. No more surging issues on the highway, barely any popping (only happens if I slightly crack the throttle while coasting which is to be expected) and in general it feels very quick and responsive. Definitely not cheap (close to $750 for both the PCV and the dyno tuning + spark plug) but well worth it IMO. I'm done with power mods in any case.
(http://i.imgur.com/XYc9OQh.jpg?1)
Braaaaaaap
What kind of crazy PCV system did you get?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 02, 2016, 11:48:04 AM
What kind of crazy PCV system did you get?
http://www.solomotoparts.com/Dynojet-Power-Commander-V-Fuel-and-Ignition-for-WR250R-X-08-14/
Fuel + Ignition was only $15 more than the fuel only programmer so I got the ignition one.
I partly got it to be able to fine tune the map, but I also got it to get the quickshifter in the future. :praise:
I'm want to get good at wheelies first before I get the quickshifter. Mainly want it to do multi-gear wheelies, if I ever get to that point.
Rags has transformed from being the ultimate ricer to the brown Evil Knieval.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 02, 2016, 02:01:11 PM
http://www.solomotoparts.com/Dynojet-Power-Commander-V-Fuel-and-Ignition-for-WR250R-X-08-14/
Fuel + Ignition was only $15 more than the fuel only programmer so I got the ignition one.
I partly got it to be able to fine tune the map, but I also got it to get the quickshifter in the future. :praise:
I'm want to get good at wheelies first before I get the quickshifter. Mainly want it to do multi-gear wheelies, if I ever get to that point.
Wait, I thought you needed some kind of fancy high performance PCV system ...
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/supermechanic/2011-01-21_200026_pcv_valve.gif)
you know, because thumper.
(https://scontent.fsnc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14581403_10154550577859035_3887790040534575055_n.jpg?oh=60cb6b203b2e5459edb57762aa168706&oe=586279F2)
RIP my butt. Longest I've ever ridden a motorcycle in one day and it's on a 250cc supermoto. :lol:
Ouch. My butt hurts after like 50 miles. :mask:
Fun ride?
Ouch. My butt hurts, too.
Quote from: giant_mtb on October 09, 2016, 01:08:16 AM
Ouch. My butt hurts after like 50 miles. :mask:
Fun ride?
Rode to Reno, NV and back to go to the Aerostitch popup event. I've always wanted an Aerostitch but didn't know what size and alterations to order, but they put on popup events. Found out about this one earlier in the week and decided to head out there.
I took the fun route on the way there - 108 through Sonora Pass, with a group ride (mostly S1000RRs, a GSXS1000 and a VFR800 :lol: ), hit the event, and then took the highways back home.
(http://i.imgur.com/VxP7Fnt.jpg?1)
Put Galfer SS brake lines and pads on today. Mainly bought it because the rear brake has always felt shitty to me. Got everything installed and .... it still feels like shit. I think pedal travel is even longer now. I bled the system so much and there's no air coming out of it, but it still feels like dog shit. The front feels even better now but the rear still feels so bad that I bought a used R6 rear MC on eBay. I'm hoping the larger diameter MC will help decrease the travel and not make it feel so mushy.
So it turns out the master cylinder still had a ton of air in it. I bled the MC from the banjo bolt last night and the rear brake feels amazing right now. So much so that I don't know if I should try installing the R6 MC I ordered...
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 12, 2016, 11:38:05 AM
So it turns out the master cylinder still had a ton of air in it. I bled the MC from the banjo bolt last night and the rear brake feels amazing right now. So much so that I don't know if I should try installing the R6 MC I ordered...
wat a n00b
Installed the R6 master cylinder today. It all bolted straight up. I had ordered a Zeta brake clevis for the stock MC,which uses a 6mm rod, but got one for a DRZ400SM, which uses an 8mm rod. I was about to return it, but tried it on the R6 MC and it fit, so that was a pleasant surprise.
Brake pedal feels super firm now. I haven't been able to try it out yet, though, because it started raining as I was putting it back together.
(http://i.imgur.com/xBQGVps.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fbD19UE.jpg)
Now you can do long wheelies for great time?
You may have mentioned this already, but I must know: what is the top speed, and how many million RPM does it run at, say, about 70 MPH?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 15, 2016, 07:43:39 PM
Now you can do long wheelies for great time?
I hope :mask:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 15, 2016, 07:47:41 PM
You may have mentioned this already, but I must know: what is the top speed, and how many million RPM does it run at, say, about 70 MPH?
Top speed is probably 95-100 mph. I've had it at 91 indicated but it feels super scary at that speed.
There's no tach but at 70 on flat ground on a relatively still day it takes about 1/4th-1/3rd throttle to maintain 70 mph. Definitely doesn't feel stressed at that speed and has a lot of power (relatively speaking) left on reserve.
I am surprised it can do 90.... I recall my V-Star 650 barely able to get much over 80 downhill with the wind, and the engine was just screaming (though, it sounded great). Slow Yamahas FTW.
It's geared super tall, probably so it can cruise at 65-70 mph no problem.
I'm surprised the V-Star was that slow.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 15, 2016, 08:23:49 PM
It's geared super tall, probably so it can cruise at 65-70 mph no problem.
I'm surprised the V-Star was that slow.
It is rated at 40 HP, and weighs over 500 pounds. Put me on it, and it's about 740 pounds. 740/40=18.5
At least the torks was guud.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 15, 2016, 08:00:02 PM
I hope :mask:
Top speed is probably 95-100 mph. I've had it at 91 indicated but it feels super scary at that speed.
There's no tach but at 70 on flat ground on a relatively still day it takes about 1/4th-1/3rd throttle to maintain 70 mph. Definitely doesn't feel stressed at that speed and has a lot of power (relatively speaking) left on reserve.
91 is scary? Pssh, I've gotten my POS up to an indicated 110! (Probably an actual 100)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 16, 2016, 12:08:10 AM
91 is scary? Pssh, I've gotten my POS up to an indicated 110! (Probably an actual 100)
Yeah, but yours weighs 180+ lb more than my bike. :devil:
Aero and weight are huge factors at high speeds. My F4i at an indicated 151 mph felt much, much more stable than my WR at 91 indicated. Hell, throw in a good cross breeze or big bump at 65-70 mph and the bike shimmies and wiggles a ton.
True. I'm sure the big front fender sitting up high doesn't help the front end stability at speed either.
Yeah, dirt bikes aren't exactly confident at high speed. No windshield, upright riding position, aero, light weight... :lol:
Holy shit. Rear brake feels so good. I might bleed it a bit more to make sure it's 100% but as sporty would say it's tite like prom nite. :lol:
Well, I've run out of things to do on this bike for now. Only thing I've bought today is a one finger clutch lever for wheelie practice.
LOOK AT HOW CUTE IT IS
(http://i.imgur.com/sQHf6GH.jpg)
Compared to the two finger lever:
(http://i.imgur.com/aMWLeF3.jpg)
Quote from: Cookie Monster on November 02, 2016, 09:03:40 PM
LOOK AT HOW CUTE IT IS
(http://i.imgur.com/sQHf6GH.jpg)
Compared to the two finger lever:
(http://i.imgur.com/aMWLeF3.jpg)
Pics don't work.
Silly imgur... here we go:
(http://i.imgur.com/eA4Kr98.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cQxt5Hg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JyU2gwK.jpg)
So my roommate was looking at my bike yesterday and was wondering why the rear was sitting so high. I showed him how I unthreaded the lower shock mount down to raise the rear and he was like "uhh it's not supposed to look like that", so I lowered the rear back down and he increased the preload and took some measurements.
Holy shit the bike feels so much nicer now. It's nowhere as twitchy as before and it pops the front wheel up so quickly instead of just squatting down. :lol: