I just took the B in to get the emissions done, and it failed with aplomb. It didn't pass anything, in fact. Here are the numbers, test/standard:
2500 rpm:
CO% 9.04/5
HC ppm 1138/900
Idle (900-950 rpm):
CO% 9.27/5
HC ppm 9943/900
How much of a pain in the ass am I looking at, here? I just tuned it up (oil, valves, ignition and timing, carbs). What should I be checking? I might try to find a mechanic who knows these cars to do this for me. I have no experience with emissions stuff, and this was my first time dealing with most of the old-style stuff (points, carbs, etc.).
Hydrocarbons, eh? Probably runnign rich. How does the inside of the tailpipe look? Is it coated in soot?
I dub your car "The Dirty Bomb." You are hereby exiled from Bellingham for life.
I didn't think a car that old would have to pass an emissions test.
Quote from: MX793 on February 07, 2009, 05:24:29 PM
I didn't think a car that old would have to pass an emissions test.
No kidding. What year is it? It might not even legally have to have a cat if it's old enough.
It's a '72, and it's not exempt. :rage:
Quote from: Laconian on February 07, 2009, 05:20:33 PM
I dub your car "The Dirty Bomb." You are hereby exiled from Bellingham for life.
:lol:
It would never make it all the way to the Ham, anyway.
Quote from: Psilos on February 07, 2009, 05:35:40 PM
It's a '72, and it's not exempt. :rage:
What kind of carb is this?
The first thing I would attack would be the idle mixture screws.
Does the engine have a smog pump?
Quote from: NACar on February 07, 2009, 05:14:41 PM
Hydrocarbons, eh? Probably runnign rich. How does the inside of the tailpipe look? Is it coated in soot?
Yeah. It's not oily, though it's not completely dry, either.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 07, 2009, 05:37:28 PM
What kind of carb is this?
The first thing I would attack would be the idle mixture screws.
Does the engine have a smog pump?
Twin SU HIF 4s. I just set the mixture last weekend. It was actually running a bit lean on the front carb, unless the carb was high at the time.
Quote from: Psilos on February 07, 2009, 05:41:18 PM
Twin SU HIF 4s. I just set the mixture last weekend. It was actually running a bit lean on the front carb, unless the carb was high at the time.
I don't know enough about those to say anyting intelligent.
Haha, neither do I. :lol:
Quote from: Psilos on February 07, 2009, 05:46:22 PM
Haha, neither do I. :lol:
Does it have a smog pump though?
I have no idea. I think so. So I guess I have some idea... :lol:
A guy on the MG Experience forum suggested I clean out the smog rail, whatever that is.
Quote from: Psilos on February 07, 2009, 05:49:34 PM
I have no idea. I think so. So I guess I have some idea... :lol:
A guy on the MG Experience forum suggested I clean out the smog rail, whatever that is.
Smog rail is that... secondary air injection, just pumps fresh air into the exhaust to help burn up those extra HC's.
Did you already do the whole ignition system tune up thing?
Quote from: Psilos on February 07, 2009, 05:49:34 PM
I have no idea. I think so. So I guess I have some idea... :lol:
A guy on the MG Experience forum suggested I clean out the smog rail, whatever that is.
Yeah, if you have a smog rail in the intake, you have a smog pump to pump extra air into it. These sucked a lot of power, and a lot of them have been removed or bypassed.
Quote from: NACar on February 07, 2009, 05:53:31 PM
Smog rail is that... secondary air injection, just pumps fresh air into the exhaust to help burn up those extra HC's.
Did you already do the whole ignition system tune up thing?
Ah. How do I find such a thing?
Yeah, I did the ignition, valves, carbs, etc.
It may be a belt driven pump with plumbing that leads to the exhaust manifold. You may need to remove the tubing and inspect it for blockages.
Quote from: Psilos on February 07, 2009, 05:35:40 PM
It's a '72, and it's not exempt. :rage:
lol wut, our 1976 Mercury was exempt six years ago.
The uber high HC suggests an ignition issue to me. Anyone make an electronic ignition conversion kit for the car?
Oh and, they changed the damn rules here too, I thought I was done testing my '89 Accord since its now 20yrs old, but now they only exempt '87 and older.
I KNOW something changed as far as emissions regs come '88 because my '89 has a lot more emissions crap on it than an '87. I was really hoping to get rid of some of the shit.
Doesn't it feel good?
Like Vtec mentioned, there are retrofits for your car for improved ignition system performance.
It turns out I don't have an air pump, etc. anymore. Oh well.
At some point, I'll buy a rebuilt distributor with the Pertronix kit. Mine is fairly worn. There's a guy that will custom-curve distributors with electronic ignition, etc. for under $400. Of course, at that point, I should probably have the carbs re-built. And then, I might as well rebuild the engine. And then, I might as well rebuilt the whole car! :lol:
I think I'm going to try replacing the plugs, which are new, but the number 2 is already fouled (o_0), retarding the timing, and leaning the mixture. I'll re-set stuff after it passes.
If that doesn't work, I can always bribe the kid. Speaking of that guy, he thought the cable on the heater valve was the throttle. The heater valve is on the opposite side of the engine from the carbs.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on February 08, 2009, 07:51:18 AM
lol wut, our 1976 Mercury was exempt six years ago.
I know, I know. Idaho is a silly place.
http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/smog-check.php#Exempt_Vehicles (http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/smog-check.php#Exempt_Vehicles)
Quote from: Psilos on February 08, 2009, 03:46:08 PM
I know, I know. Idaho is a silly place.
Are you SURE your car is subject to the emissions standards? It is completely ridiculous.
Quote from: Psilos on February 08, 2009, 03:46:08 PM
I know, I know. Idaho is a silly place.
http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/smog-check.php#Exempt_Vehicles (http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/smog-check.php#Exempt_Vehicles)
I see. Just tell them it runs on propane then.
Quote from: NACar on February 08, 2009, 03:47:51 PM
Are you SURE your car is subject to the emissions standards? It is completely ridiculous.
Yes, and yes. See the above link. If I had a '63 MG, it would be exempt, but nothing newer.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 08, 2009, 03:49:13 PM
I see. Just tell them it runs on propane then.
I'll add some ethanol and say it's an ethanol fueled vehicle. :lol:
Quote from: Psilos on February 08, 2009, 03:50:36 PM
I'll add some ethanol and say it's an ethanol fueled vehicle. :lol:
There ya go. Personally, I'd just get a couple of those diamond shaped CNG stickers and call it a day...
Survive what? The coming Cougspocolypse?
:lol:
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 08, 2009, 03:52:50 PM
There ya go. Personally, I'd just get a couple of those diamond shaped CNG stickers and call it a day...
Or I could just pay the test monkey off...
Probably cheaper.
Quote from: Psilos on February 08, 2009, 05:24:42 PM
Survive what? The coming Cougspocolypse?
:lol:
LOL - I hope you don't mind if I use that!
Odd observation: On the MG Experience forum, which is the other place I ask questions about the MG (hey, more brains, the better), no one seems to read anything very critically. I'll say in the first post of my topic "I just did a tune up with new oil/filter, [etc.]", and the first reply will be "well, you'd better change your oil!". I'll add a post about the ID emissions stuff, with a link, and the next post will be "Are you sure you have to pass emissions with a car of that year? There might be an exemption." How annoying, right?
Quote from: GoCougs on February 08, 2009, 05:29:37 PM
LOL - I hope you don't mind if I use that!
Go for it, but credit me somehow. "The crazy hippie fucker on CarSPIN said..." Or something.
:lol:
In your other thread (http://www.carspin.net/forums/index.php?topic=17003.00) you detail the compression problems you are having in two of the cylinders. If the mixture isn't being compressed properly it's not going to burn properly, it may be spewing unburned gas out of closed-but-leaky exhaust valves, hence the excess HCs in the emissions test.
Hopefully your greenhouse gas emissons sin is unconnected to the Australian bush fires this weekend.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/7877178.stm (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/7877178.stm) :lol:
Oh no! It's all my fault!
Yeah, the bad compression probably isn't helping anything. I have no intention of fixing it, though, so, oh well.
Can you register it as a Classic or Street Rod?
Idaho is stupid about that testing, as cars older than about '69 don't have emissions crap on them anyhow. Hell, even Nazi Kalifornia woudn't require your car to be tested.
Run it lean, buy a bottle of that "guaranteed to pass emissions" crap and pay off the monkey. ;)
Yes he can.
http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/smog-check.php
Exempt Vehicles
While most vehicles in Northern Ada County are required to pass an emissions test, the law does not require that all vehicles be tested. For example, you do not have to have an emissions test, even in Ada County, if your vehicle:
* Is a model year 1964 or earlier
* Is powered by propane, electricity, or another fuel that is not gasoline or diesel fuel
* Is less than one year old and still owned by the first owner
* Has a maximum vehicle gross weight under 1,500 pounds
* Is classified as a motorhome on your registration
* Is classified as an Idaho Old Timer or a Classic Vehicle
I found elsewhere that cars over 30 years old are eligible for Classic Vehicle status.
yeah, kinda figured that to be the case. There are usually annual mileage limits on classic cars or street rods, though I dont' know of anyone who actually checks mileage. They are also eligible for dirt cheap assigned value insurance thorugh places like Hagerty if you do that (my Fiat, for example was $120 a year for full coverage through Hagerty).
http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/license-plates.php#Special_Plates:_(Only_Available_by_Mail_or_Fax) (http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/license-plates.php#Special_Plates:_(Only_Available_by_Mail_or_Fax))
Only for use in parades and exhibitions. They'd know when it was parked on the street in front of work all week...
Quote from: ChrisV on February 09, 2009, 08:18:28 AM
Can you register it as a Classic or Street Rod?
Idaho is stupid about that testing, as cars older than about '69 don't have emissions crap on them anyhow. Hell, even Nazi Kalifornia woudn't require your car to be tested.
Run it lean, buy a bottle of that "guaranteed to pass emissions" crap and pay off the monkey. ;)
See above, but, also, word to the rest. :lol:
Many people in Georgia register old cars as "classics." You smell them before you actually see them - battered old Detroit tin boxes spewing crap into the air as their owners commute to their jobs at junk food restaurant fry stations.
Quote from: Psilos on February 09, 2009, 07:01:38 PM
http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/license-plates.php#Special_Plates:_(Only_Available_by_Mail_or_Fax) (http://www.dmv.org/id-idaho/license-plates.php#Special_Plates:_(Only_Available_by_Mail_or_Fax))
Only for use in parades and exhibitions. They'd know when it was parked on the street in front of work all week...
that is the same as the rules here. Pleasure driving counts. No one checks, and if you get pulled over, you were "prepping the car for a club show later." I mean, you weren't planning on driving it daily all year long, were you?
Quote from: ChrisV on February 09, 2009, 08:18:28 AM
Can you register it as a Classic or Street Rod?
Idaho is stupid about that testing, as cars older than about '69 don't have emissions crap on them anyhow. Hell, even Nazi Kalifornia woudn't require your car to be tested.
Run it lean, buy a bottle of that "guaranteed to pass emissions" crap and pay off the monkey. ;)
Beat me to it. Try leaning it out and see if it passes. Once it does, reset the carbs so it runs decently again. Also make sure it's fully warmed up and the choke isn't partially engaged.
Quote from: ChrisV on February 10, 2009, 05:39:37 AM
that is the same as the rules here. Pleasure driving counts. No one checks, and if you get pulled over, you were "prepping the car for a club show later." I mean, you weren't planning on driving it daily all year long, were you?
In Michigan, cars with historic plates are for shows only. Pleasure driving is illegal. They also don't keep historic plates in the database with normal plates, so a cop can impound your car for not being registered, even if you are at a car show.
Some tips I found on the internet.
THE 6 SMOG COMMANDMENTS - The MUST DO's before you visit a smog station or smog test only center!
Do not subject your vehicle to a Smog Inspection if it does not run right. Chances are that it will fail the smog check and you will lose your inspection fee. Seek repair assistance first. This will save you time and money, and insure your vehicle will pass the smog test.
Drive your vehicle for at least 20 minutes prior to arriving at the smog station. This will ensure your vehicle is properly warmed up and is running at it's optimum level. Remember your engine is a fuel burning machine. To ensure proper combustion it needs to have sufficient time to warm-up and this can be accomplished through driving for at least 10 to 15 miles.
The use of fuel additives, such as BLUE SKY Clean Air, can be very helpful in lowering emission levels. Fuel additives are generally poured into a vehicle's gas tank during fuel refilling. The additive is mixed with ordinary fuel. The purpose is to clean carbon deposits within your engine's intake and exhaust paths, allowing for both fuel and air to flow freely within its passages, thus lowering emission levels and improving combustion, as well as overall engine performance. These types of products offer helpful solutions to various vehicle emission and smog test problems.
Learn more about fuel additives at www.blueskycleanair.com.
During the smog inspection, the smog technician may need to drive your vehicle on a dynamometer as a part of the smog test process. Making sure your vehicle's tire pressures are even and correct will allow the vehicle to be driven with greater stability and accuracy during the smog exam. This will improve the overall emissions output of your vehicle by allowing the engine to maintain a constant and steady load. Correct and even tire pressure may be the deciding factor between a borderline vehicle failing or passing the smog test.
If it's close to your next oil change interval, go ahead and do it before the smog check. The PCV (positive crank ventilation) system of your vehicle is designed to allow your engine to breath fumes located in oil compartments (oil pan, ect.). The fumes are then burned through the combustion process. If the oil in your engine is contaminated due to inadequate oil changes it may very well cause your vehicle to fail the inspection. Contaminated oils are high in Hydrocarbons (HC) and will present a rich mixture to the engine chambers. Avoiding oil changes not only causes pre-mature engine wear but can also cause your vehicle to fail the smog inspection. Change your vehicle's engine oil.
Make sure your vehicle's Check Engine Light or Malfunction Indicator Lamp is not illuminated. A constantly illuminated Check Engine or MIL light is an automatic smog failure. A certified repair shop can diagnose the check engine light condition and offer you an evaluation and estimate. The home mechanic may also diagnose a Check Engine light malfunction via special Check Engine codes retrieval tools, available at most auto parts stores. Note: A smog technician can not refuse to test your vehicle based on the fact that he or she notices an illuminated light. The smog technician must perform the smog check and fail your vehicle. This is California State law. Be aware.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on February 10, 2009, 10:54:20 AM
In Michigan, cars with historic plates are for shows only. Pleasure driving is illegal. They also don't keep historic plates in the database with normal plates, so a cop can impound your car for not being registered, even if you are at a car show.
Same wording as most places:
"You can apply for historical plates if your prized vehicle is 26 years old or older, owned as a collector's item and used only in parades, exhibitions or car club activities. You cannot use a designated historical vehicle for everyday functions such as driving to and from work or running errands."
Again, if you do get stopped, you're not driving it to work or on errands, but prepping it for a club activity (like a tour or show).
i do like MD's better:
"Historic:
To qualify as a historic vehicle, your vehicle must not have been substantially altered, remodeled, or remanufactured from its original construction, and must be 20 model years or older.
A historic vehicle 60 years or older may obtain a one-time, permanent, non-transferable registration. This vehicle registration does not qualify for specialty plates.
Vehicles classified as historic certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours,
occasional transportation and similar uses. The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passenngers or property on highways.
Street Rod:
To qualify as a street rod, your vehicle must be 25 years old or older and must have been substantially altered from the manufacturer's original design.
Vehicles classified as street rod certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours,
occasional transportation and similar uses. The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways."
The bolded parts really open it up. The two classifications mean no emissions or safety inspection.
Quote from: ChrisV on February 10, 2009, 11:34:21 AM
Same wording as most places:
"You can apply for historical plates if your prized vehicle is 26 years old or older, owned as a collector's item and used only in parades, exhibitions or car club activities. You cannot use a designated historical vehicle for everyday functions such as driving to and from work or running errands."
Again, if you do get stopped, you're not driving it to work or on errands, but prepping it for a club activity (like a tour or show).
i do like MD's better:
"Historic:
To qualify as a historic vehicle, your vehicle must not have been substantially altered, remodeled, or remanufactured from its original construction, and must be 20 model years or older.
A historic vehicle 60 years or older may obtain a one-time, permanent, non-transferable registration. This vehicle registration does not qualify for specialty plates.
Vehicles classified as historic certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses. The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passenngers or property on highways.
Street Rod:
To qualify as a street rod, your vehicle must be 25 years old or older and must have been substantially altered from the manufacturer's original design.
Vehicles classified as street rod certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses. The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways."
The bolded parts really open it up. The two classifications mean no emissions or safety inspection.
A Michigan state cop threatened to impound my Z, at a car show, even though I had a properly registered historical vehicle.
It wasn't in his system, and it wasn't supposed to be either.
What a stupid system. The Michigan DMV says nothing about that situation, and acts like they are regular plates. Ours in MD ARE regular plates that the car is registered with.
Hmm, the Michigan DMV says it's registered to the title or previous registration and comes with a registration tab/sticker. that cop may have been full of crap.
Quote from: ChrisV on February 10, 2009, 05:39:37 AM
that is the same as the rules here. Pleasure driving counts. No one checks, and if you get pulled over, you were "prepping the car for a club show later." I mean, you weren't planning on driving it daily all year long, were you?
In the summer, when I'm in town, yeah. I'm also planning on some touring with it.
Quote from: ChrisV on February 10, 2009, 01:07:30 PM
What a stupid system. The Michigan DMV says nothing about that situation, and acts like they are regular plates. Ours in MD ARE regular plates that the car is registered with.
Hmm, the Michigan DMV says it's registered to the title or previous registration and comes with a registration tab/sticker. that cop may have been full of crap.
I had a historical plate from 1976. It had no tab, because there wasn't one that year. It was legal and I had a valid, state issued registration, but the cop didn't know what he was talking about. That wouldn't necessarily stop him from impounding my car, though.
They had 3 damn state cops on the scene trying to figure this out.
After I got stopped, I had the plate changed back to the normal one.
^ What I want to avoid, and what it seems like to police around here would do.
Quote from: Psilos on February 10, 2009, 08:19:15 PM
^ What I want to avoid, and what it seems like to police around here would do.
I know lots of people with historic auto plates in Texas and they all say they've never been hassled by the police regardless of where they were driving the car. And Texas has just about the same restrictions an the other states regarding historic or antique vehicle plates.
When trying to determine if you are going to be hassled I think it's going to come down to the individual officer and the jurisdiction. Most won't really care, a few will.
Quote from: Psilos on February 10, 2009, 08:19:15 PM
^ What I want to avoid, and what it seems like to police around here would do.
At least it's a fixed cost, whereas getting your car to pass the smog checks could be a real money pit. I think it's worth a shot.
Hmm, maybe.
On the other hand, fixing your HC emissions issue might result in better performance? (mixture is used more for exploding and less for smoking.)
I still need to see this car before your car gods smite it.
You'd better come to Boise, then. :lol:
The mixture is right now, but the carbs aren't in very good condition. There is probably an ignition issue, and something is fouling the plugs... Everything just needs a rebuild. I'm thinking of having the carbs rebuilt, and maybe the dizzy, but the engine is just gonna have to remain in its current condition. :ohyeah:
Quote from: Psilos on February 11, 2009, 10:16:08 PM
You'd better come to Boise, then. :lol:
The mixture is right now, but the carbs aren't in very good condition. There is probably an ignition issue, and something is fouling the plugs... Everything just needs a rebuild. I'm thinking of having the carbs rebuilt, and maybe the dizzy, but the engine is just gonna have to remain in its current condition. :ohyeah:
The mixture may be right for driving but it's not right for passing inspection. lean it out a bunch, go pass inspection and then reset them back to "normal" for driving.
To join in the registration debate....
Historic and prescribed left-hand drive vehicles may be:
- conditionally registered to obtain reduced fees
- registered for periods of 1, 2 or 3 years
- driven on a road for up to 90 days during any 1 year period of registration.
A vehicle registered as a historic or prescribed left-hand drive may not be driven for hire, fare or reward.
To qualify for reduced fees, the owner of the vehicle must be a financial member of a historic vehicle club that is recognised by the Registrar of Motor Vehicles for this purpose.
Before the start of each journey, details of the journey must be recorded in a Log Book. Log Books must be:
- issued by the recognised historic vehicle clubs
- in a form approved by the Registrar of Motor Vehicles
- carried in the vehicle at all times during a journey.
Definitions (for the purpose of the Motor Vehicles Act and Regulations)
A historic vehicle:
- is a vehicle where 30 years or more have lapsed since 1 January of the year in which the vehicle was manufactured
- has not been modified from its original design to any significant extent.
A prescribed left-hand drive vehicle:
- is a vehicle that has its steering wheel on the left of the longitudinal axis of the vehicle
- was manufactured before 1 January 1974
- has not been modified from its original design to any significant extent.
_____
Blecch. I'd sooner pay a bit more and register the car for everyday use, rather than fill out some ridiculous logbook and have to worry about how often I could use the car. There are no emissions tests to speak of here, either.
That's a touch too much...
Quote from: Byteme on February 12, 2009, 06:40:31 AM
The mixture may be right for driving but it's not right for passing inspection. lean it out a bunch, go pass inspection and then reset them back to "normal" for driving.
That's the plan, but I'm still thinking of getting a rebuild. I realized a couple of days ago that I'm getting, like, 10 mpg.
Quote from: Psilos on February 12, 2009, 06:30:28 PM
That's the plan, but I'm still thinking of getting a rebuild. I realized a couple of days ago that I'm getting, like, 10 mpg.
You
are the cause of global warming.
Quote from: Psilos on February 12, 2009, 06:30:28 PM
That's the plan, but I'm still thinking of getting a rebuild. I realized a couple of days ago that I'm getting, like, 10 mpg.
LOL, yeah something's wrong.
I got 12 MPG on the Caddy with the old motor.
Indeed. The thing's got 150 kmi on it, and I doubt such things have been done. I know the dizzy is pretty worn out. That's probably the next big thing to get rebuilt, but it works OK. The engine has low compression in the number 2 (discussed before...), so it could probably use a rebuild, too. That'll never get done, though. I'd put a V8 in there before I rebuilt the 1800. Not like it's some kind of feat of engineering...
I'm hoping a carb rebuild will fix the emissions, the gas mileage, and the very fast plug fouling (which is still 50% suspicion).
Quote from: Psilos on February 13, 2009, 12:28:01 AM
Indeed. The thing's got 150 kmi on it, and I doubt such things have been done. I know the dizzy is pretty worn out. That's probably the next big thing to get rebuilt, but it works OK. The engine has low compression in the number 2 (discussed before...), so it could probably use a rebuild, too. That'll never get done, though. I'd put a V8 in there before I rebuilt the 1800. Not like it's some kind of feat of engineering...
I'm hoping a carb rebuild will fix the emissions, the gas mileage, and the very fast plug fouling (which is still 50% suspicion).
Haynes publishes a very, very good book on SUs. Covers the rebuild and adjustment of just about every SU ever made. Anyone with a LBC (Little British Car) should own one.
Quote from: Byteme on February 13, 2009, 06:46:54 AM
Haynes publishes a very, very good book on SUs. Covers the rebuild and adjustment of just about every SU ever made. Anyone with a LBC (Little British Car) should own one.
I remember helping my dad take those things apart when I was a kid.
I know I would get frustrated with that. The local MG (and other imports) mechanic can rebuild both for $150, so I'm doing that. I'm sure it's not a super duper good job, and they won't be shiny, but the carbs will work right. I think if I was planning on a larger restoration, and I had the space and all the time in the world, I'd be more into rebuilding myself.
Quote from: Byteme on February 13, 2009, 06:46:54 AM
Haynes publishes a very, very good book on SUs. Covers the rebuild and adjustment of just about every SU ever made. Anyone with a LBC (Little British Car) should own one.
Also, I know what an LBC is. ;) :lol:
Quote from: Psilos on February 13, 2009, 06:58:56 PM
I know I would get frustrated with that. The local MG (and other imports) mechanic can rebuild both for $150, so I'm doing that. I'm sure it's not a super duper good job, and they won't be shiny, but the carbs will work right. I think if I was planning on a larger restoration, and I had the space and all the time in the world, I'd be more into rebuilding myself.
They are easy to rebuild though. THe hardest part is centering the jet. And you need a wentworth socket for that chore.
Maybe that's why the mechanic is so cheap...
Anyway, I would rather have a mechanic who's done it before do it. If I had a better set-up, no time constraint, and no emissions to pass, I'd probably do it.
Quote from: Byteme on February 15, 2009, 06:51:16 PM
They are easy to rebuild though. THe hardest part is centering the jet. And you need a wentworth socket for that chore.
Ah yes, the perverse British fetish for inventing odd units of measure...
Bump, goddammit.
Same shit, different month. At this point, we can be pretty sure that it's not the internals of the engine causing super high HC at idle. It's got to be the carbs or ignition. Both are set up pretty good now, and I don't think being a little out of tune would result in 5000 ppm (900 standard) of HC only at idle. I most suspect the ignition, and the distributor is the most likely culprit. The wires, points, condensor, coil, and plugs are all new and set up right in the last 1000 miles. In order to get the timing right, I have the dizzy rotated a lot further than most people go, so I suspect that it's just worn and needs a rebuild.
At least it doesn't smoke on hard acceleration, anymore...
This is bullshit.
Megasquirt
And now I just have to send the Classic Car plates application off...
I'm satisfied that, whatever the problem is, it's not a big deal. The car runs fine and idles fine, and the only emissions problem is at idle. I still want to know what the deal is, but it's not a major problem.
Quote from: NACar on July 24, 2009, 05:50:21 PM
This is bullshit.
OMG yur so rite.
I wish I'd never had to have the emissions tested to begin with. Then I never would have torn the whole damn thing apart, etc., and I'd never know there could possibly be a problem.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 24, 2009, 05:59:29 PM
Megasquirt
Yeah, I'd like that. Too much money and effort, though. I also like the SUs, they're just a little out of shape.
you know what I would do? Just pay off the garage to pass the test.
Quote from: SVT_Power on July 24, 2009, 10:02:19 PM
you know what I would do? Just pay off the garage to pass the test.
If Idaho is like NY, that can't be done with the emissions test. A sniffer is hooked up to the exhaust pipe, and is in constant communication with the DMV. Your pass/fail printout is a state document right from the DMV. And with all the inventory/tracking of the inspection stickers, etc., a lot of shops (even ones that used to) don't do stuff like that anymore.
'Course, the DMV is so hopelessly backlogged that it could probably fly under the radar, but there's some nasty fines and penalties, so it's not worth it.
Quote from: The Pirate on July 24, 2009, 10:09:29 PM
If Idaho is like NY, that can't be done with the emissions test. A sniffer is hooked up to the exhaust pipe, and is in constant communication with the DMV. Your pass/fail printout is a state document right from the DMV. And with all the inventory/tracking of the inspection stickers, etc., a lot of shops (even ones that used to) don't do stuff like that anymore.
'Course, the DMV is so hopelessly backlogged that it could probably fly under the radar, but there's some nasty fines and penalties, so it's not worth it.
The last time our team's silverado went for a test (It runs uber rich - this thing's so modified and nobody's around anymore who's worked on it so nobody wants to get into fixing it) there was no way it was gonna pass but it read 0's across the board. They just didn't hook up the sniffer thing
:huh:
Quote from: SVT_Power on July 24, 2009, 10:12:35 PM
The last time our team's silverado went for a test (It runs uber rich - this thing's so modified and nobody's around anymore who's worked on it so nobody wants to get into fixing it) there was no way it was gonna pass but it read 0's across the board. They just didn't hook up the sniffer thing
:huh:
Adam's right. If the sniffer isn't hooked up, it won't take data. The thing can sense if it is in the tailpipe or not.
And I tried to pay the monkey off, but there's only so much cheating that you can do on these tests, and it wasn't good enough.
Compression is good! 143, 145, 148, 142. Everything else is set right and in tune. Sweet!
Quote from: Psilos on July 24, 2009, 11:23:35 PM
Adam's right. If the sniffer isn't hooked up, it won't take data. The thing can sense if it is in the tailpipe or not.
And I tried to pay the monkey off, but there's only so much cheating that you can do on these tests, and it wasn't good enough.
Just hook it up to a different car. :lol:
Oh yeah... Well, the monkey changed since last time, so I dunno if this monkey is into bribery. I suppose it can't hurt to ask...
Quote from: Psilos on July 25, 2009, 09:50:15 PM
Oh yeah... Well, the monkey changed since last time, so I dunno if this monkey is into bribery. I suppose it can't hurt to ask...
Dude, it's really easy. You go to a small shop run by minorities(Asians or Hispanics.) You pay $80-100 and it magically passes.
You should rent a Prius and have them use that for the tests.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 26, 2009, 01:34:23 PM
You should rent a Prius and have them use that for the tests.
I have a Ranger...
Quote from: Psilos on July 26, 2009, 02:11:25 PM
I have a Ranger...
But with a Prius they will think you have some sort of magic engine, or something.
It probably won't be able to detect enough stuff to take data. Their computer will scream about DILUTION DETECTED!!!
Dumb thing was overheating again, so I tightened the other end of the coolant hose that was leaking before. And then the rest of the hose clamps, just to be sure. :rolleyes: