So after looking around the internet for some adjustable swaybar endlinks with spherical bearings (aka heim joints) I found prices from $80-$160 for a pair.
I'm thinking these things are fairly easy to make with a couple spherical rod ends, an intermediate section with a RH and LH thread tapped into it, some securing washers for the bearing, and a couple jamnuts.
I'm not sure how crazy to go with the rod end quality. Looks like prices for these go from $5 to $30 for one. Obviously, you need something that stainless steel or coated for corrosion and probably have the bearing teflon lined (although some seem to have kevlar reinforced teflon lining). Not sure where to find a piece for the intermediate section either (that might be something that needs to be machined.... which i can easily design and get made for a decent price)... hell, maybe if i go that far I can just sell them
but anyways, just wondering if anyones been down this road and knows any pitfalls?
I can't say that I have. It does seem pretty simple though. I know crosswire has built strut bars before. Though they're not the same as adjustable sway bars it is basically just a bar with fittings.
I've built something very similar in concept, it was a pair of adjustable strut tower braces for my old Legacy, and yes it was effective because I could set a great deal of "preload" into it.
Do exactly what you were thinking about; get enough DOM mild steel tubing to cover the distance you'll need. I say DOM because it will otherwise have a thick weld seam that will be nearly impossible to tap through. The thickness doesn't need to be huge. I would go for the smallest reasonable heim joint you can use, then match the tubing to that.
Then, cut it with a band saw or equivalent. Take a right and a left hand tap, and tap the DOM tubing. Thread a jam nut over the threads in each heim joint before threading them into the tubing, then fit on your vehicle. I would assume that you could adjust the effectiveness of your swaybar based on the preload you apply to the links.
You also might want to consider some sort of rustproofing; either powdercoating if it's cost effective, or several layers of paint on the non-moving parts with liberal amounts of oil on the moving parts to keep them moving, especially in PA.
hmm... never thought about just using tubing... thats easy enough that it might just work!
Quote from: r0tor on January 13, 2008, 11:42:46 AM
hmm... never thought about just using tubing... thats easy enough that it might just work!
Yeah, just use DOM, like I mentioned before normal tubing has a weld seam, and don't use plumber's pipe because the ID is too inconsistent.