Stopped for gas and filled up (from slightly less than a 1/4 tank) today. Five or so miles down the road, I notice that my CEL is on. The car exhibited no other issues. Acceleration, drivability, etc. were all okay. So, I figured it was because the gas cap wasn't on (my buddy filled the car while I ran inside to get some things) tightly. Drove to our destination and parked, and I removed and properly tightened the gas cap. After a few hours, we had back home. CEL is still on, car still drives like normal. So when I get home, I figure I'll disconnect the battery, reconnect it, and see what happens. I do that, then go inside to get ready for work. Come out, start the car and drive to work. No CEL. Exciting.
Well, this is where the problem starts. The car sputters anywhere between 1K and 3K rpm, with anything more than leisurely throttle application. It typically happens once, then stops (i.e. misses quickly at 2K rpm in 1st gear, misses quickly at 3K rpm in second, etc.). It's sort of sluggish in general, as well. No CEL.
Bad gasoline? I'm going to get some dry gas to add tomorrow, to see if that fixes the problem. I'm trying to avoid draining the tank and all that jazz (school starts tomorrow, and I really don't have the time or money for a car repair like this right now). Any thoughts? Topping off with high test (from a different station) and adding injector cleaner?
I obviously don't want to risk further damage to the engine, so if draining the tank and all that is the way to go, then I'll figure out how to make it happen.
I've actually never had bad gasoline before (if it is indeed that, but I think it is), so I'm not totally sure what the best course of action is here.
Thanks for the thoughts, guys.
I've never heard of a case of bad gasoline other than it sitting for years.
I mean it's not hard getting all the fuel out. Just make sure fuel lines are going into some container so you can put the fuel back in if needed?
Quote from: SVT_Power on January 19, 2010, 11:05:26 PM
I've never heard of a case of bad gasoline other than it sitting for years.
I mean it's not hard getting all the fuel out. Just make sure fuel lines are going into some container so you can put the fuel back in if needed?
No, bad gas is certainly possible. Not common, but it exists. Refinery cheaped out on additives, leaking holding tank allowing water at the station, etc.
I know how to get the fuel out. I live in an apt., so I really have no way to remove and store (or dispose of) 15 gallons of gasoline. Unfortunately, this is a job I'd likely have to pay someone to perform.
The CEL came on with no drivability issues, which means a problem may have developed, but it was able to compensate for it. When you disconnected the battery and restarted, the ECU should have been in open loop, running a base program with no adjustments for sensor input, but it was unable to run properly in this mode. So, yeah, bad gas could be the problem, but it could just as easily be a coincidence.
Quote from: NACar on January 19, 2010, 11:13:54 PM
The CEL came on with no drivability issues, which means a problem may have developed, but it was able to compensate for it. When you disconnected the battery and restarted, the ECU should have been in open loop, running a base program with no adjustments for sensor input, but it was unable to run properly in this mode. So, yeah, bad gas could be the problem, but it could just as easily be a coincidence.
So I shouldn't have disconnected the battery? Do I just need to drive the car for a while for the ECU to "readjust" from the base program?
Like I said, the sputtering is odd. It seems to happen just once in each gear, all at revs below 3K.
How long did you drive it with the sputtering problem?
Quote from: NACar on January 19, 2010, 11:20:10 PM
How long did you drive it with the sputtering problem?
To work, then back from work. Roughly thirteen miles, total.
You may need to run it some more to see if it can relearn how to run right, and see if the CEL comes back.
If you can go somewhere and to read any stored OBD codes, that may help. Places like Auto Zone will tell you the codes for free, but maybe not what they mean. You can google them, or post them here.
Did it seem to run any better on the way home than on the work? If it didn't seem to get any better, it might not be learning shit.
Oh, and just take another look under the hood to make sure you dont see any loose connections, hoses, or anything that could have happened when you disconnected the battery.
Quote from: NACar on January 19, 2010, 11:45:06 PM
Did it seem to run any better on the way home than on the work? If it didn't seem to get any better, it might not be learning shit.
I honestly didn't notice (my mind was elsewhere at the time), though it wasn't any worse. I'll see what she does tomorrow.
Quote from: NACar on January 19, 2010, 11:49:51 PM
Oh, and just take another look under the hood to make sure you dont see any loose connections, hoses, or anything that could have happened when you disconnected the battery.
Yes, I suppose that's possible.
The car has a terminal illness. Man up and buy an Oldsmobile 442.
My god, you only live six and a half miles from your job?
Okay, drivability issues totally gone. It did the sputtering thing a few times this morning, but not as pronounced. Then, totally went away.
But the CEL is back on. So I can get a code read, I guess. :banghead:
Quote from: Raza on January 20, 2010, 11:59:37 AM
My god, you only live six and a half miles from your job?
I live less than five miles from my office. And as far as commutes to the office go, mine's midpack in distance.
Oh, I was not aware that this was the "How Long is Your Commute to Work?" thread. :rolleyes: :tounge:
It might be an EGR problem. The fill-up probably has nothing to do with it.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 20, 2010, 05:05:15 PM
Oh, I was not aware that this was the "How Long is Your Commute to Work?" thread. :rolleyes: :tounge:
Well, I don't really care about your engine issues, nor could I be of any help. And if I could have been, I still wouldn't have cared enough to be bothered.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on January 20, 2010, 05:16:14 PM
It might be an EGR problem. The fill-up probably has nothing to do with it.
I thought about that (it is a common issue on 2.0L Proteg?s). And I haven't totally ruled it out, but EGR issues seem to cause very poor idles and stalling at idle. My car idles fine and hasn't exhibited zero stalling.
It's supposedly pretty easy to remove and clean the EGR valve on these cars, so that might be a good thing to do anyway. The silver lining is now that the CEL is back on, I can get a code and go from there.
Thanks for the thought. And thanks, NACar too.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 20, 2010, 04:42:57 PM
Okay, drivability issues totally gone. It did the sputtering thing a few times this morning, but not as pronounced. Then, totally went away.
But the CEL is back on. So I can get a code read, I guess. :banghead:
If you want the sputtering back, try disconnecting the battery again. :ohyeah: :lol:
Quote from: Raza link=topic=21076.msg1247833#msg1247833 date=1264013977
My god, you only live six and a half miles from your job?
I live about five miles. I bet I just blew your mind.
Hehe, my mother lives less than 1.5 miles from the office, on the same road.
For a while, I lived four blocks from where I worked.
You people suck.
One time after I filled up I forgot to reinstall the gas cap. The 2006 Mazda has a little vacuum pump that activates to see if the gas cap is on. It ran and ran and burned out because I left the cap off. There were no driveability issues though. Just something more to check. You might have got a bit of water in the gasoline; it happens from time to time.
Quote from: Raza link=topic=21076.msg1248379#msg1248379 date=1264079749
You people suck.
Are these crys for attention or what? :rolleyes:
Run this tank nearly completely empty and then refill from a reputable chain such as conoco, shell, sunoco, etc. Doesn't have to be the costliest fuel, just something better than Jim's Convenience Store, and see if the problem goes away. If not I'd recommend further diagnosis. Personally I have seen a few similar issues lately due to excessive alcohol content or poor quality fuel.
Quote from: Byteme on January 21, 2010, 06:32:39 AM
Are these crys for attention or what? :rolleyes:
Yeah, duh. :lol:
Bad gas sucks. There's a place near home that is consistently 3-5 cents cheaper per gallon than the big guys. My brother filled up there once and had a similar experience that you're having. Even in gasoline, you get what you pay for. :mask:
Was the place you filled up at a cheap-o place or a big chain?
Was the gas cap loose to begin with?
It takes a few drive cycles for a CEL to go out. Disconnecting the battery may or may not keep the light off. Same happened with the Volvo (gas cap) and in spite of knowing that doing so was probably a waste of time, disconnected the battery. Light came on three miles down the road. I told the wife to drive it and the MIL went off about a week later. Hasn't been on since and it passed inspection.
Quote from: Byteme on January 21, 2010, 06:31:30 AM
One time after I filled up I forgot to reinstall the gas cap. The 2006 Mazda has a little vacuum pump that activates to see if the gas cap is on. It ran and ran and burned out because I left the cap off. There were no driveability issues though. Just something more to check. You might have got a bit of water in the gasoline; it happens from time to time.
Cap was definitely on, however I'll take a look at this. Thanks.
Quote from: R-inge on January 21, 2010, 06:41:02 AM
Run this tank nearly completely empty and then refill from a reputable chain such as conoco, shell, sunoco, etc. Doesn't have to be the costliest fuel, just something better than Jim's Convenience Store, and see if the problem goes away. If not I'd recommend further diagnosis. Personally I have seen a few similar issues lately due to excessive alcohol content or poor quality fuel.
Drove the car again this morning, and the CEL is still on, but the car is driving normally. The idle is fine, it has full power, etc. What you've said confirms my plan, so that's good to hear (:lol:). I bought some of that HEET fuel stabilizer/water removed, I'm probably going to put that in later.
Quote from: giant_mtb on January 21, 2010, 08:37:30 AM
Bad gas sucks. There's a place near home that is consistently 3-5 cents cheaper per gallon than the big guys. My brother filled up there once and had a similar experience that you're having. Even in gasoline, you get what you pay for. :mask:
Was the place you filled up at a cheap-o place or a big chain?
I generally try to stay away from the cheap-o places, this was a Sunoco that I fill up at fairly regularly (it's on the way to one of the places that where I ski). Obviously, I'm going to try a different station for the next fill up.
Quote from: JWC on January 21, 2010, 09:05:40 AM
Was the gas cap loose to begin with?
It takes a few drive cycles for a CEL to go out. Disconnecting the battery may or may not keep the light off. Same happened with the Volvo (gas cap) and in spite of knowing that doing so was probably a waste of time, disconnected the battery. Light came on three miles down the road. I told the wife to drive it and the MIL went off about a week later. Hasn't been on since and it passed inspection.
Yeah, gas cap was loose after the initial fill up. I tightened it later that day. After the battery reset, the CEL came back on. As mentioned before though, the car has zero drivability issues, so I'm going to give it some time. Hopefully it fixes itself.
Thanks for the thoughts, guys.
Okay, she was down enough for the low fuel light to come on, so I filled up (Mobil station that I usually go to). I've only driven about 10 miles since the fillup, so it's obviously too early to see.
This morning, I ran to Advance to pick up sparks plugs (simply time to replace them, not because of the CEL). I borrowed their code reader to see what comes up, for shits and giggles. It was a mid-level Actron, so I'm sure it's not going to be as sophisticated as the dealer's setup as far as diagnosing beyond what code shows up.
But this is what it showed: P0171 - System too lean (Bank 1)
A quick search shows that this a fairly generic code in that the real problem could be a variety of different things. I don't really have the money to be throwing parts at it, and I'm not happy with either Mazda dealership in this area. What can I do myself to diagnose (or at least rule some things out)? Could it still be bad gasoline, or have we moved out of that altogether?
Thanks guys.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 27, 2010, 06:51:31 PM
But this is what it showed: P0171 - System too lean (Bank 1)
Too much purple drank in the fuel.
Quote from: Laconian on January 27, 2010, 07:03:30 PM
Too much purple drank in the fuel.
Also known as ethanol, in this case.
Quote from: Laconian on January 27, 2010, 07:03:30 PM
Too much purple drank in the fuel.
I just want the badness to leave my car. :(
Have you tried an exorcism?
Quote from: Rupert on January 27, 2010, 09:08:22 PM
Have you tried an exorcism?
No, but every time I drive down the road I wanna jerk the wheel INTO A GODDAMNED BRIDGE ABUTMENT.
Then collect the insurance money, and get a pick 'em up truck, of course.
The lean code tells me that you either have a vacuum leak, misfire, or the fuel you filled up with last time had too much ethanol in it. If it doesn't clear up with this tank I'd see if you have a vacuum leak. Spraying carb clean at the intake gaskets and rubber bits with the engine running might show if you have one. If the idle gets noticeably rougher when you hit a certain area, that's the source of the leak.
Quote from: R-inge on January 27, 2010, 09:31:16 PM
The lean code tells me that you either have a vacuum leak, misfire, or the fuel you filled up with last time had too much ethanol in it. If it doesn't clear up with this tank I'd see if you have a vacuum leak. Spraying carb clean at the intake gaskets and rubber bits with the engine running might show if you have one. If the idle gets noticeably rougher when you hit a certain area, that's the source of the leak.
Cool. I did some poking around on the Mazda forums (and there is a LOT of BS and fanboyism to sift through over there), and pretty much came up with the same thing regarding vacuum leaks. They also said to check the hose to the intake manifold after the MAF for splits (not an uncommon failure on this car, I hear), and the MAF itself. I don't think there's a misfire, but I'm replacing plugs anyway (it's time). I do feel better now that I have some sort of concrete issue to chase, and that it's one that shouldn't be terribly expensive.
I really appreciate the help. Quick question - okay to drive the car in the meantime? It drives just fine, and I'm taking it easy, but I know lean conditions aren't good. I realize the advice is worth exactly what I paid for it, and release you from any bad juju if the car blows up tomorrow. :lol:
Thanks again.
Be awesome if it was just ethanol from the last tank, I can spend that part of my tax return on another .22 and a tent. :lol: FWIW, this car suffered a noticeably big mileage decrease when the switch to E10 came around, and my butt dyno (however accurate that thing is) swears it lost a little pep. Up until a few months ago, there was a station here that still had gas with no ethanol and I would go there, but they are E10 now too.
I should fill up the 'Sploder with E0 ( :lol: ) and see what its mileage is. I bet it would get it up to the EPA estimate.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 27, 2010, 09:53:22 PM
I really appreciate the help. Quick question - okay to drive the car in the meantime? It drives just fine, and I'm taking it easy, but I know lean conditions aren't good. I realize the advice is worth exactly what I paid for it, and release you from any bad juju if the car blows up tomorrow. :lol:
Thanks again.
If the car's throwing a CEL, it's probably running off a preprogrammed fuel-air map from the engine computer instead of looking at data from the various engine sensors. You should be fine to drive it - but it will probably use more fuel in the meantime.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 27, 2010, 09:53:22 PM
Cool. I did some poking around on the Mazda forums (and there is a LOT of BS and fanboyism to sift through over there), and pretty much came up with the same thing regarding vacuum leaks. They also said to check the hose to the intake manifold after the MAF for splits (not an uncommon failure on this car, I hear), and the MAF itself. I don't think there's a misfire, but I'm replacing plugs anyway (it's time). I do feel better now that I have some sort of concrete issue to chase, and that it's one that shouldn't be terribly expensive.
I really appreciate the help. Quick question - okay to drive the car in the meantime? It drives just fine, and I'm taking it easy, but I know lean conditions aren't good. I realize the advice is worth exactly what I paid for it, and release you from any bad juju if the car blows up tomorrow. :lol:
Thanks again.
Be awesome if it was just ethanol from the last tank, I can spend that part of my tax return on another .22 and a tent. :lol: FWIW, this car suffered a noticeably big mileage decrease when the switch to E10 came around, and my butt dyno (however accurate that thing is) swears it lost a little pep. Up until a few months ago, there was a station here that still had gas with no ethanol and I would go there, but they are E10 now too.
Yeah, no problem. I wouldn't worry too much about it wrecking your motor, it's not like a high-compression ratio or turbo motor, but you will most likely find that it runs better once the issue is resolved. There is mild risk involved, sure, but the main risk believe it or not is to your catalytic converter. A lean condition causes high exhaust temps which can damage the cat.
Hang on, what? Ethanol-free fuel is hard to get?
Quote from: omicron on January 28, 2010, 06:58:09 AM
Hang on, what? Ethanol-free fuel is hard to get?
Nearly impossible in many areas. I can't get it without 10% ethanol content without driving down to Denver and going to a place that caters to racers.
Well I'll be.
I haven't seen ethanol-free gas in three years.
Well, I think we've moved past bad gasoline. I'm leery to call it the EGR valve, as the idle is generally nice and smooth. But I hit 45 mph a few times last night, and push the clutch in to coast to an upcoming red light. The revs would drop very low, to almost stalling (and the battery voltage light would flicker). It seemed not to do it when I was applying the brakes, and is just fine when idling at a traffic light.
To me, this says vacuum leak, so I'm going to see if I can track that down tomorrow morning before work (it's bitterly cold today, and I'm already getting swamped with work for school).
Edit.
Update: Opened the hood tonight after coming home from work (engine was nice and warm, and idling quietly). I'm pretty sure I can hear a leak somewhere between the air filter and the intake manifold. Going to inspect more closely tomorrow, when it's light out and not so bitterly cold. If this is indeed the culprit, I'm tempted to upgrade to fancy intake...
Quote from: Raza on January 29, 2010, 11:58:27 AM
I haven't seen ethanol-free gas in three years.
I wouldn't even know if any of my local petrol stations sold E10.
Does Australia have any subsidy boondoggles of its own like we do with corn? Do you have gasoline mixed with Yellow Tail?
Quote from: Laconian on January 29, 2010, 11:56:36 PM
Does Australia have any subsidy boondoggles of its own like we do with corn? Do you have gasoline mixed with Yellow Tail?
I'm fairly sure the sugar cane industry receives government money in some form, and ethanol fuel is probably more common up north in Queensland near the plantations themselves. A quick check on the BP and Mobil websites reveals that they don't distribute E10 outside of New South Wales, Queensland and the ACT, which is the north-east corner of the country.
Wine, on the other hand, is strictly legislated as an Omi-only fuel.
Well, half-success. Haven't replaced the part yet, so I don't know if there are other issues, but the intake hose has a rather large split. Mazda wants $85 for a replacement part, so I'm going to see where NAPA's prices fall. Should be pretty easy to replace, and hopefully that's the source of the problem (seems like it would be).
The timing of it's demise was odd, and threw me for a curve ball, but looks like I might be able to get out of this for minimal money.
Quote from: The Pirate on January 31, 2010, 05:34:44 PM
Well, half-success. Haven't replaced the part yet, so I don't know if there are other issues, but the intake hose has a rather large split. Mazda wants $85 for a replacement part, so I'm going to see where NAPA's prices fall. Should be pretty easy to replace, and hopefully that's the source of the problem (seems like it would be).
The timing of it's demise was odd, and threw me for a curve ball, but looks like I might be able to get out of this for minimal money.
Try sealing it up with duct tape for now :huh:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on January 31, 2010, 05:40:38 PM
Try sealing it up with duct tape for now :huh:
Yeah, going to have to do that. NAPA online only shows an intake available for the 1.6L cars, I don't know if the 2.0L would be the same, and I'll be damned if I'm paying 80 bucks for an OEM chunk of plastic...
Bah, just seal 'er up with duct tape and leave it that way. No sense in buying new shit if that does the job. :ohyeah:
Or buy some rubber tubing and some hose clamps that'll fit and make one yourself! :mask:
And unless you want one of the $300+ name-brand intakes, I would get this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-05-PROTEGE-PROTEGE5-MP5-MP3-2-0-AIR-INTAKE-K-N-L_W0QQitemZ370327390985QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56393b8b09#ht_3356wt_939
Because it comes with a K&N filter, and the rest is just pipes.
Nevermind, I was looking at the wrong part number. I can get the OEM air hose for $42. Definitely going to try sealing it up in the meantime, though.
Is it really that bad that it warrants a replacement? I mean...some plastic epoxy...or...?
Quote from: giant_mtb on January 31, 2010, 06:01:58 PM
Is it really that bad that it warrants a replacement? I mean...some plastic epoxy...or...?
It's a pretty good size tear, and it's right on the flex part of the hose. I'm charging my work light right now, and I'm going to run out and pull it off, and see what I can do for a patch job. But I'm pretty neurotic about my car (and I don't want to have to deal with the tape coming off in the middle of a trip), so I'm probably going to replace it anyway.
Gotcha. If it's at a flex, yeah, replacing is probably best.
What do you drive, again?
Quote from: giant_mtb on January 31, 2010, 06:05:40 PM
Gotcha. If it's at a flex, yeah, replacing is probably best.
What do you drive, again?
It's the car in my sig picture. :lol:
2001 Mazda Proteg? 5-speed
Gotcha. I've got sigs off, so I didn't see it. :ohyeah:
Quote from: The Pirate on January 31, 2010, 06:04:45 PM
It's a pretty good size tear, and it's right on the flex part of the hose. I'm charging my work light right now, and I'm going to run out and pull it off, and see what I can do for a patch job. But I'm pretty neurotic about my car (and I don't want to have to deal with the tape coming off in the middle of a trip), so I'm probably going to replace it anyway.
Ooooo, it will probably be hard to tape up if it's in the flexy part. Another temp solution would be to cut the section out, and replace it with a small section of solid pipe and hose clamps...
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on January 31, 2010, 06:17:58 PM
Ooooo, it will probably be hard to tape up if it's in the flexy part. Another temp solution would be to cut the section out, and replace it with a small section of solid pipe and hose clamps...
Well, it was flexible, but it was more or less a straight line, so I wrapped as best I could. Several layers and all that. Took the car for a quick spin, and it definitely has moar powerz. No weird stumbling idle immediately after letting off the gas either. Time will tell (and I'm going to replace the hose anyway, just don't know if I'm going eBay intake or OEM part), but the car seems to have improved. I'll know for sure as soon as the CEL disappears (though I suppose I could just reset and see if it stays gone).
Something is wrong though, it couldn't have been this easy...
Quote from: The Pirate on January 31, 2010, 07:14:09 PM
Well, it was flexible, but it was more or less a straight line, so I wrapped as best I could. Several layers and all that. Took the car for a quick spin, and it definitely has moar powerz. No weird stumbling idle immediately after letting off the gas either. Time will tell (and I'm going to replace the hose anyway, just don't know if I'm going eBay intake or OEM part), but the car seems to have improved. I'll know for sure as soon as the CEL disappears (though I suppose I could just reset and see if it stays gone).
Something is wrong though, it couldn't have been this easy...
But it was
that easy. :rockon:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on January 31, 2010, 05:51:03 PM
And unless you want one of the $300+ name-brand intakes, I would get this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-05-PROTEGE-PROTEGE5-MP5-MP3-2-0-AIR-INTAKE-K-N-L_W0QQitemZ370327390985QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56393b8b09#ht_3356wt_939
Because it comes with a K&N filter, and the rest is just pipes.
+1
I have something similar, and it's been great. Sounds 100x better than the stock intake.
CEL is off, and car is back to full power. Duct tape seems to be holding pretty well, too. I'm going to replace the hose, just need to figure it if I'm going get an actual intake or just an OEM replacement. Those eBay special intakes will have a mount for the MAF, right?
Quote from: The Pirate on February 01, 2010, 10:24:49 PM
CEL is off, and car is back to full power. Duct tape seems to be holding pretty well, too. I'm going to replace the hose, just need to figure it if I'm going get an actual intake or just an OEM replacement. Those eBay special intakes will have a mount for the MAF, right?
Those eBay special intakes can vary, but will generally utilize the original MAF housing somehow (which is a good thing, because it is specially calibrated for a certain size pipe). Another thing to be make sure of is that it has provisions for the breather hose, air temp sensor, and whatever else your intake normally has on it. It most likely does, but you could contact the eBay seller to be sure.
Even this cheap BOMz0rz intake has a slot for the temp sensor, and a nub for the breather hose: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOMZ-02-05-Mazda-Protege-MP3-MP5-5-Air-Intake-03-04_W0QQitemZ170429157131QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ae5e8f0b#ht_2620wt_971
That would be fine, but I'm not so sure about the quality of the filter on that.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 01, 2010, 10:24:49 PM
CEL is off, and car is back to full power. Duct tape seems to be holding pretty well, too. I'm going to replace the hose, just need to figure it if I'm going get an actual intake or just an OEM replacement. Those eBay special intakes will have a mount for the MAF, right?
If it were me I'd just spring for the $42 OEM part and be done with it. You know it will fit and is engineered for the car in the first place.
Quote from: EtypeJohn on February 02, 2010, 06:29:21 AM
If it were me I'd just spring for the $42 OEM part and be done with it. You know it will fit and is engineered for the car in the first place.
Yes, I'm pretty sure that's the way I'm going to go. I just have a problem (out of principle, mind you) paying $42 for what is basically a 16" length of rubber tubing. Somebody is making a nice profit on that thing.
I do want an intake, but per some info from R-inge and some reading on my own, I'm just going to stay with the OEM part, for the reasons you stated. Down the road, I'll get a car I can tinker with, but I depend on this car to get to work and class every day, so OEM it is.
Thanks again for the help everybody! I'm thrilled that this seems to be fixed for $42 (damn cheap by car repair standards today!). Only one busted knuckle, too.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 02, 2010, 09:01:56 AM
Yes, I'm pretty sure that's the way I'm going to go. I just have a problem (out of principle, mind you) paying $42 for what is basically a 16" length of rubber tubing. Somebody is making a nice profit on that thing.
I do want an intake, but per some info from R-inge and some reading on my own, I'm just going to stay with the OEM part, for the reasons you stated. Down the road, I'll get a car I can tinker with, but I depend on this car to get to work and class every day, so OEM it is.
Thanks again for the help everybody! I'm thrilled that this seems to be fixed for $42 (damn cheap by car repair standards today!). Only one busted knuckle, too.
What are the dimensions of the tube (hose?) and how dies it attach at each end? Got a picture?
Quote from: EtypeJohn on February 02, 2010, 09:27:07 AM
What are the dimensions of the tube (hose?) and how dies it attach at each end? Got a picture?
It's number 12 in this diagram.
(http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/5/5416760.gif)
Similar to this - though this one is for the 1.6L engine. This one likely wouldn't work, it's missing a bracket and a few of the tabs and mounts are in the wrong place.
(http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/959204.jpg)
Honestly, $42 isn't a hell of a lot of money, and it is worth it to me to get something that's just going bolt in without me having to rig anything up.
That part may have an aftermarket "silicone" equivalent which is devoid of those corrugations. That part is a common failure piece on my car apparently as well and there are aftermarket versions which hook right up. Just a suggestion, though to be honest this is probably the one and only time you'll have to replace this part, and the silicone hoses may very well be more expensive than the OE part.
Quote from: R-inge on February 02, 2010, 10:04:14 AM
That part may have an aftermarket "silicone" equivalent which is devoid of those corrugations. That part is a common failure piece on my car apparently as well and there are aftermarket versions which hook right up. Just a suggestion, though to be honest this is probably the one and only time you'll have to replace this part, and the silicone hoses may very well be more expensive than the OE part.
Yeah, it's likely going to be the OEM piece. Some parts on this car are just difficult to find. I checked with my local NAPA this morning, and the guy couldn't find any air hose for the 2.0L engine. Ran into the same thing when looking for the parking cable - NAPA only had a listing for drum brake equipped cars - I had to go to the dealer. No big deal though, like you say it's probably a one time replacement. The first one lasted 10 years and 130K miles.
If you just get this kit, I believe it includes the tube you need:
(http://www.turbo-kits.com/images/tsi_extreme_turbo_kit.jpg)
Quote from: The Pirate on February 02, 2010, 09:46:29 AM
(http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/959204.jpg)
Honestly, $42 isn't a hell of a lot of money, and it is worth it to me to get something that's just going bolt in without me having to rig anything up.
I guess you could cut out the corregated part and find a piece of rubber tubing that would slip over each end and hose clamp it on. That might save you a few bucks. Try a NAPA Auito Parts store. They generally have a selection of more obscure bulk itmes and might have a piece of hose that would work. Or it's the required ID is a common size a piece of radiator hose might suffice.
Quote from: The Pirate on February 02, 2010, 10:17:31 AM
Yeah, it's likely going to be the OEM piece. Some parts on this car are just difficult to find. I checked with my local NAPA this morning, and the guy couldn't find any air hose for the 2.0L engine. Ran into the same thing when looking for the parking cable - NAPA only had a listing for drum brake equipped cars - I had to go to the dealer. No big deal though, like you say it's probably a one time replacement. The first one lasted 10 years and 130K miles.
At least dealers still have everything for your car...
The fresh air intake tube on my 78 VW is held together with a piece of PVC, silicone sealer, and duct tape. You can get just about anything for the camper/bus but that hose. They are only available used.
So use brake ducting or something.
Get a roo tube
http://www.amazon.com/MimoUSA-Short-Mazda-Protege-02-04/dp/B001UNVL0O
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on January 19, 2010, 11:30:38 PM
You may need to run it some more to see if it can relearn how to run right, and see if the CEL comes back.
If you can go somewhere and to read any stored OBD codes, that may help. Places like Auto Zone will tell you the codes for free, but maybe not what they mean. You can google them, or post them here.
One of my best investments of all time is my $69 OBDII reader. I can even USB it up to my laptop to get all kinds of cool data on the car, including proprietary VAG codes.
Your vag has a code? I guess that makes sense... No wonder I never get in them when I want to!
:lol: