(http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/6994/dscn19169jw.th.jpg) (http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19169jw.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2206/dscn19308va.th.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19308va.jpg)
(http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/4206/dscn19400aw.th.jpg) (http://img161.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19400aw.jpg)
(http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/5274/dscn19345yb.th.jpg) (http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19345yb.jpg)
(http://img331.imageshack.us/img331/359/dscn19281qv.th.jpg) (http://img331.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19281qv.jpg)
(http://img331.imageshack.us/img331/7546/dscn19220bq.th.jpg) (http://img331.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19220bq.jpg)
(http://img314.imageshack.us/img314/4654/dscn19277ip.th.jpg) (http://img314.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19277ip.jpg)
This is the frame rail that was straightened, along with the hole in the trunk due to rust and the frame straightening. All will be patched and rust proofed.
(http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8505/dscn19242ce.th.jpg) (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19242ce.jpg)
Why I'm replacing the rear panel
(http://img325.imageshack.us/img325/7161/dscn19235lq.th.jpg) (http://img325.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19235lq.jpg)
(http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/547/dscn18520vs.th.jpg) (http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn18520vs.jpg)
The parts I'll be using.
Before pics:
(http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/798/dscn17766ml.th.jpg) (http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn17766ml.jpg)
(http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/8332/dscn17754cf.th.jpg) (http://img114.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn17754cf.jpg)
I paid $500 for the work done to the rear (making the car square, straightening the frame rail and the quarter panel work.
So far I have $1000 Canadian into the car (852.065 USD)
Umm, why is this a sticky?
:P
QuoteUmm, why is this a sticky?
:P
Because the mods love restorations, and this, my friend, is a restoration. ;)
QuoteUmm, why is this a sticky?
:P
I was asked to sticky the last restoration thread, and went ahead and did this one as well.
Oh.
Well, I feel special now.:P
You wouldn't beleive how many little stupid things are different between 90 and 91. All the electrical connector in the front end are a different style, as with the bumper mounts and the rebar behind it.
I received the car yesterday and worked today on putting back together the front end. It was all apart and had been torn off in the accident. A bunch of wirring I was going to replace with part from my '90 I had to splice and stuff instead of replace due to the differences.
Now the left blinker blinks twice as fast as it should. I think that's because it doesn't have a left tailight though.
Are you gonna sell it once it looks normal again or are you gonna try and make it like your sig?
It's an auto? I thought that was against your religion.
QuoteIt's an auto? I thought that was against your religion.
:o ...I'm surprized, i thought for sure it was a stick also
QuoteQuoteIt's an auto? I thought that was against your religion.
:o ...I'm surprized, i thought for sure it was a stick also
He said he'll swap it. B)
QuoteQuoteQuoteIt's an auto?? I thought that was against your religion.
:o ...I'm surprized, i thought for sure it was a stick also
He said he'll swap it. B)
Well then :rockon:
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteIt's an auto?? I thought that was against your religion.
:o ...I'm surprized, i thought for sure it was a stick also
He said he'll swap it. B)
Well then :rockon:
:praise:
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteIt's an auto?? I thought that was against your religion.
:o ...I'm surprized, i thought for sure it was a stick also
He said he'll swap it. B)
Well then :rockon:
Boo ya! Ben doesn't tolerate no slushies :praise:
Are you cannibalizing your red one for this? If so, why? Just for shits an giggles?
QuoteAre you cannibalizing your red one for this? If so, why? Just for shits an giggles?
He's selling his red one, and he's cannabalizing his others for this so that he can have a nicer car than the others that he has.
That leather looks very nice, besides the cracked leather on the side bolster, it looks pretty good B)
ambitious undertaking!
Thanks for all the replies. :)
THe plan is to fix this one up and either get the underbody re-coated and drive it year-round or drive it in the summer only.
The red one I'm going to put in a rebuilt engine, new balljoints and good used axles and either use it as a winter beater or flip it for $3000.
The SE is an auto, and will remain that way for hopefully only a year or less. I have two spare manual trannies + all the stuff needed to change over but instead of just throwing it all together I'm going to get one of them rebuilt, and install an LSD from a Civic Type R or Integra Type R.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-HONDA-I...1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-HONDA-INTEGRA-DC2-TYPE-R-LSD-HELICAL-ITR-CIVIC_W0QQitemZ8003159896QQcategoryZ33731QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
Damn, dude, that's sweet!
Almost makes me miss having a car...then I look at the gas pump!
Wow, youre very good with cars! How'd you learn to be this good mechanically with them?
QuoteWow, youre very good with cars! How'd you learn to be this good mechanically with them?
All the work that's been done to it so far(except the remounting of the front bumper assembly) was done by a frame straightening shop so I havn't done much to it.
I've never done bodywork before, it's going to be mostly a learning experience.
Mechanically...I just spent all my free time reading, discussing and observing. You build a good idea of how everything works from that, then go ahead and try it. Taking things apart is easy, it's putting them back together again that's hard.
hey, when you put stuff back on, how do you know how much to torque it down?
Most stuff I just crank on with a ratchet until it's nice and tight.
Proper torque doesn't really matter (imo) unless you're talking bolts that are under constant stress or have a use which require precision. Stuff like putting on a bumper or bolting on tailights it doesn't matter, but axles nuts, and things like valve covers and other engine stuff I'd buy a torque wrench.
(http://www.branfordbike.com/images/tools/parktw2.jpg)
I've been meaning to buy one.
QuoteMost stuff I just crank on with a ratchet until it's nice and tight.
Proper torque doesn't really matter (imo) unless you're talking bolts that are under constant stress or have a use which require precision. Stuff like putting on a bumper or bolting on tailights it doesn't matter, but axles nuts, and things like valve covers and other engine stuff I'd buy a torque wrench.
(http://www.branfordbike.com/images/tools/parktw2.jpg)
I've been meaning to buy one.
I agree. I rarely use a torque wrench, but for things like fastening a valve cover to the head, it's a must!
QuoteQuoteMost stuff I just crank on with a ratchet until it's nice and tight.
Proper torque doesn't really matter (imo) unless you're talking bolts that are under constant stress or have a use which require precision. Stuff like putting on a bumper or bolting on tailights it doesn't matter, but axles nuts, and things like valve covers and other engine stuff I'd buy a torque wrench.
(http://www.branfordbike.com/images/tools/parktw2.jpg)
I've been meaning to buy one.
I agree. I rarely use a torque wrench, but for things like fastening a valve cover to the head, it's a must!
That's odd, because I've been wrenching for 30+ years and never used a torque wrench for anything but head bolts. Valve covers just get snugged down, then a half turn more.
QuoteQuoteQuoteMost stuff I just crank on with a ratchet until it's nice and tight.
Proper torque doesn't really matter (imo) unless you're talking bolts that are under constant stress or have a use which require precision. Stuff like putting on a bumper or bolting on tailights it doesn't matter, but axles nuts, and things like valve covers and other engine stuff I'd buy a torque wrench.
(http://www.branfordbike.com/images/tools/parktw2.jpg)
I've been meaning to buy one.
I agree. I rarely use a torque wrench, but for things like fastening a valve cover to the head, it's a must!
That's odd, because I've been wrenching for 30+ years and never used a torque wrench for anything but head bolts. Valve covers just get snugged down, then a half turn more.
Perhaps that was an overstatement, but I like to use it so that the bolts are all equal and that they aren't too tight.
The first time I changed a valve gasket, I smooshed it and it leaked. The last time I did it, I torqued it properly and no leaks!
If you aren't sure how tight something should be, a torque wrench is very helpful.
A toruqe wrench is a must for about any internal engine nut or bolt. For example, bearing clearances are often dependant on the main cap bolts being torqued to a certain specification to ensure the caps and bearings are seated properly. With axle and pinion nuts torque is critical for determining the preload on the associated bearings. If they're too tight or too loose, you'll destroy the bearings, races, gear faces, spindle, etc..
IMHO, a good torque wrench needs to be in the tool box of anyone doing their own car repairs.
(http://img431.imageshack.us/img431/5339/dscn19526dh.th.jpg) (http://img431.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19526dh.jpg)
(http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/8569/dscn19496zb.th.jpg) (http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19496zb.jpg)
(http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/8755/dscn19509id.th.jpg) (http://img389.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19509id.jpg)
(http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/1047/dscn19538if.th.jpg) (http://img356.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19538if.jpg)
While many of the manufacturers do have torque specs for EVERY bolt on the vehicle (They have too, for manufacturing purposes), properly toquing bolts is only a big issue for mechanical parts, such as head gaskets, where it can be CRITICAL, wheels and transmissions parts. For body parts, other than the risk of cracking or damaging a plastic part when attaching it, torque isn't as big an issue.
As for the differences between vehicles when using LKQ/used parts, I am WELL versed in those issues, having run a body shop for 5 years. Most body shops will have to make use of used parts, and the head aches that come with them are legion. The cost savings is too great to ignore, and with older vehicles, sometimes the only parts available are used parts.
Good to see you dispensing knowledge, barkeep. How are things on your end of the screen?
:rockon:
Well, Project SE is on hold now for the next 6 months, I just came back from putting it away into a little spot between a pole and a wall that only a 4WS car (or like a geo metro) would fit into. :praise:
It's at the back of a big storage place that will soon fill up with cars so there won't be any chance of me getting it out till spring.
In the meantime, I'll collect a few parts here and there I'm sure.
(http://img427.imageshack.us/img427/26/dscn19784zz.th.jpg) (http://img427.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19784zz.jpg)
(http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/2405/dscn19797hi.th.jpg) (http://img389.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19797hi.jpg)
(http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/7783/dscn19812vg.th.jpg) (http://img470.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19812vg.jpg)
One on the left is the '88...you can tell by the cable for the speedo instead of the electronic sensor on the '90.
(http://img416.imageshack.us/img416/9418/dscn19823wj.th.jpg) (http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19823wj.jpg)
Anybody know how to take a clutch off?
(http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/415/dscn19803nz.th.jpg) (http://img478.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn19803nz.jpg)
Random pic of my abandonned bike..
its hard to tell for sure..but the bolts to remove the clutch from the flywheel should be right here in this area...i'm sure you figured it out by now..but i thought i would throw this out there for anybody else that was interested to B)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a255/footoflead/dscn19823wj.jpg)
I see the bike got abandoned after the Ludes came Ben. :lol:
What do you mean? Just take off the bolts on the pressure plate!
You may need to put a rachet on the underdrive pulley bolt so that the crank doesn't turn. You definately need to do that to remove the flywheel.
Obviously, but I've never seen "bolts" like this before....
(http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/2013/dscn19919ye.jpg)
My socket set doesn't have anything that fits that.
Did you try a wrench with an end like this:
(http://www.vision.caltech.edu/feifeili/101_ObjectCategories/wrench/image_0028.jpg)
Just did, thanks Sean.
Now to figure out how to keep the engine from turning over...
I held a big ratchet on the underdrive pulley bolt while a friend used an even bigger ratchet to free the flywheel bolts.
However, my engine was on the ground, not in a stand.
Mine's just sitting in a wagon.
Thanks for the tips, gotta get that car ont he road.
QuoteObviously, but I've never seen "bolts" like this before....
(http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/2013/dscn19919ye.jpg)
My socket set doesn't have anything that fits that.
looks like a standard 12 point to me....is that right
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/danny_d20/DSC00467.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/danny_d20/DSC00466.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/danny_d20/DSC00462.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/danny_d20/DSC00468.jpg)
Another part on the way.
Got the pod and three gauges, water temp, oil pres, and volts.
I'll probably be selling the gauges since they're mechanical and I don't like the idea of oil running inside the cabin.
Okay, this is the color I will be painting the SE when it's all done.
Taken today at work, the car is a '68 Ford Galaxie
(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6479/dscn20562kl.jpg)
(http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/1366/dscn20636qw.th.jpg) (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20636qw.jpg)
(http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/1972/dscn20574mx.th.jpg) (http://img481.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20574mx.jpg)
(http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/2678/dscn20557iw.th.jpg) (http://img400.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20557iw.jpg)
(http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/5307/dscn20534ap.th.jpg) (http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20534ap.jpg)
Taken with flash
(http://img454.imageshack.us/img454/8511/dscn20703ko.jpg)
(http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/9526/dscn20737ax.jpg)
Arrived yesterday.
(http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7922/dscn20957au.th.jpg) (http://img384.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20957au.jpg)
(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9017/dscn20974fu.th.jpg) (http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20974fu.jpg)
(http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/1826/dscn21008an.th.jpg) (http://img383.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn21008an.jpg)
(http://img458.imageshack.us/img458/9964/dscn21022gk.th.jpg) (http://img458.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn21022gk.jpg)
(http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7335/dscn20827mq.th.jpg) (http://img384.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn20827mq.jpg)
:rockon:
(http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/1711/dscn21312ue.th.jpg) (http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn21312ue.jpg)
New DC Sports ceramic-coated header... this one is for a 2.1L engine, note it'd 02 sensor bung is on the downpipe, and that there is only one. The other has two, on the upper manifold.
Everything is pretty dinky compared to the turbo downpipe though. :devil:
Your house is very yellow-y.
QuoteYour house is very yellow-y.
just the lighting he has goin...
i bet if he got a full spectrum light then it would look more natural
Having 2 O2 bungs is nice for tuning. Is that why they have an extra one?
A guy from the Z-car club has an LM-1 (A/F sensor) that he was willing to let me borrow, but I don't have a bung and don't know how to weld.
QuoteHaving 2 O2 bungs is nice for tuning. Is that why they have an extra one?
A guy from the Z-car club has an LM-1 (A/F sensor) that he was willing to let me borrow, but I don't have a bung and don't know how to weld.
Time to learn ;)
i at least want to have some basic welding skills before i start any project cars
Yeah, the yellow is just the tinge that the camera puts on pics when I take them at night (with the lights on).
The two 02 bung version is the older one, not as accurate as the single 02 sensor.
The older one uses two single wire sensors, the new one has a single heated 4 wire sensor.
Saw it again for the first time in 6 months.
Threw a battery in it, disconnected the coil, turned it over for a second, reconnected the coil and it fired up on the first revolution. :praise:
(http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/1435/dscn27784ty.jpg)
(http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/6518/dscn27797il.jpg)
I forgot how nice of a car this was, after a good waxing the paint will look stunning.
Okay so whats the deal with blackie right now
You have 3 right? A black, blue, and red?
Blackie is getting a rebuilt engine and I'm contemplating putting in a different transmission (a 90/91 spec one, with lower gears and a 5th gear that doesn't grind).
I've got 4 right now, two reds, a black and a blue, but one red I will be sending to the crusher within a month.
Jesus man! Where do you get the money/time/space?
Money - work full time, no expenses (live with my parents, only expenditures are cell, insurance, gas)
Time - I've got nothing else to do
Space - My parents will work out a deal where I can have a second car in the driveway for a limited amount of time, but I have deadlines. I also rent two parking spots, and I'm about to rent another for my spare engines & other misc Prelude bits.
QuoteMoney - work full time, no expenses (live with my parents, only expenditures are cell, insurance, gas)
Time - I've got nothing else to do
Space - My parents will work out a deal where I can have a second car in the driveway for a limited amount of time, but I have deadlines. I also rent two parking spots, and I'm about to rent another for my spare engines & other misc Prelude bits.
I'm sure he makes money selling parts too. You can actually end up in the black if you're smart about it.
I always thought you had a pole barn of some sort, Ben.
I'm filling up an 8x8 shed full of 280Z/280ZX parts, not to mention the stuff that's spread out over the pole barn. Where did all this crap come from?
I make some money back, but I've only broken even on one car (the white one). The cars are all pretty cheap, so it's not like I've got boatloads of money. I think I'm making maybe $15k per year right now.
Having my own little storage place where I can work on the cars may be a possibility in a little while, my dad has offered to build a garage (4 car maybe bigger) on some land that belongs to family friends. Basically, he'll pay for the building and I'll slowly pay him back, and after like 20 years or so the building will belong to the land owners. That way I can work on the cars whenever I want, which is my biggest limiting factor really.
I could have my red car all fixed and sold for a nice profit if I had the space to work on it.
QuoteI make some money back, but I've only broken even on one car (the white one). The cars are all pretty cheap, so it's not like I've got boatloads of money. I think I'm making maybe $15k per year right now.
Having my own little storage place where I can work on the cars may be a possibility in a little while, my dad has offered to build a garage (4 car maybe bigger) on some land that belongs to family friends. Basically, he'll pay for the building and I'll slowly pay him back, and after like 20 years or so the building will belong to the land owners. That way I can work on the cars whenever I want, which is my biggest limiting factor really.
I could have my red car all fixed and sold for a nice profit if I had the space to work on it.
I might even buy that car from you if the U.S. wasn't so wacky about importing cars.
You'd find much better condition/priced cars even in Michigan I'd think.
The used car market here is pretty expensive, I'd be selling for at least $3000, saftied.
What made you so interested in Preludes?
My first one basically.
I didn't know anything about the car when I bought it. Just that it looked good, had low mileage and compared to the other cars I was looking at it was in much better shape. The only other car that came close was an '89 240SX, but it had 390,000kms on the clock.
QuoteMy first one basically.
No, it's because you're a ricer. :rolleyes:
:lol:
*runs away just incase*
QuoteQuoteMy first one basically.
No, it's because you're a ricer. :rolleyes:
:lol:
*runs away just incase*
Die.
QuoteQuoteQuoteMy first one basically.
No, it's because you're a ricer. :rolleyes:
:lol:
*runs away just incase*
Die.
:mellow:
QuoteMy first one basically.
I didn't know anything about the car when I bought it. Just that it looked good, had low mileage and compared to the other cars I was looking at it was in much better shape. The only other car that came close was an '89 240SX, but it had 390,000kms on the clock.
Oh, what could have been... ;)
With the exception of straight-line acceleration (which is very close), the Prelude does everything better.
I hate to sound like Rag here, but it's hard to beat RWD driving dynamics.
Don't get me wrong, the Prelude is a great car (I'm considering one for my next daily driver) but I just think the S13 would be more fun. It probably has a bigger aftermarket too (it's not like you would keep it stock anyway!).
On the other hand, Preludes generally don't come with the peeling paint and history of abuse that plagues S13s. I'm not even looking into S13s because of that.
I probably would've gone with the Lude because of the lower miles for the cost, but in the end, I would've ditched it to look for a RWD car. I've got my eye on a 240SX on Autotrader for 3.5k that's about 30 miles from my house. :praise:
I've droven both, and while RWD vs FWD dynamics and driving styles are different, the Prelude IMO is more rewarding to the driver in the way it responds and communicates.
Admittedly, I havn't driven a 240SX anywhere near as hard as my Prelude.
If I would have gotten that 240SX, I probably would have totalled it when winter came. I'm also wondering if I would have learned as much with a 240. Besides, everyone has a lightly modded 240SX around here, it's hard to be different. Even with Preludes, I'm finding that I've changed my plans due to what another local 3rd gen owner has done with his car.
But both platforms arn't capable of getting to the performance level I eventually want to get to, though with a 240 I probably would have stuck to it longer before moving on.
QuoteI probably would've gone with the Lude because of the lower miles for the cost, but in the end, I would've ditched it to look for a RWD car. I've got my eye on a 240SX on Autotrader for 3.5k that's about 30 miles from my house. :praise:
Yes, I've said it many times before; in the situation I was in, with the info I knew, the Prelude was a far better buy at the time.
And I certainly don't regret doing what I did, so all is good.
QuoteQuoteI probably would've gone with the Lude because of the lower miles for the cost, but in the end, I would've ditched it to look for a RWD car. I've got my eye on a 240SX on Autotrader for 3.5k that's about 30 miles from my house. :praise:
Yes, I've said it many times before; in the situation I was in, with the info I knew, the Prelude was a far better buy at the time.
And I certainly don't regret doing what I did, so all is good.
I'm saying that it was a good buy, but i wouldn't have bought so many. Not ragging on what you did though. Sounds like fun. :rockon:
I'm sure you would have done fine with a well balanced RWD car, even with all seasons.
If I can drive through 2 Michigan winters with a 2WD, long box Ford Ranger on cheap, worn all seasons then you surely could have managed an S13. My dad had done about 17 winters in that truck before me with no accidents.
I've found that the rear end only steps out when I want it to, even with a huge front weight bias. I've found that FWD cars are scarier in the winter due to their tendency to "plow" or understeer in the turns. The only real problem with RWD is getting started.
I drove a couple RWD cars in some snow. Good times. :praise:
Just turn sharply and give it the boot. Tail out action power time!!!!1!:praise:
too bad it doesn't snow here. Hell, even biking would be fun. :lol:
It's not the fact that RWD would be too hard to drive in the winter, I would just drive to fast and probably end up over several curbs, as I did with the red car, only worse.
FWD is just more forgiving.
QuoteI drove a couple RWD cars in some snow. Good times. :praise:
Just turn sharply and give it the boot. Tail out action power time!!!!1!:praise:
too bad it doesn't snow here. Hell, even biking would be fun. :lol:
You do that and you'll end up dying in a ditch. Oh, and...VIDEO GAMES DON'T COUNT!
You can tell where the limit is, you just can't be stupid. No WOT into a corner, no WOT at all, in fact!
QuoteQuoteI drove a couple RWD cars in some snow. Good times. :praise:
Just turn sharply and give it the boot. Tail out action power time!!!!1!:praise:
too bad it doesn't snow here. Hell, even biking would be fun. :lol:
You do that and you'll end up dying in a ditch. Oh, and...VIDEO GAMES DON'T COUNT!
You can tell where the limit is, you just can't be stupid. No WOT into a corner, no WOT at all, in fact!
No, i did that in an empty snow covered parking lot. :praise:
QuoteQuoteI drove a couple RWD cars in some snow. Good times. :praise:
Just turn sharply and give it the boot. Tail out action power time!!!!1!:praise:
too bad it doesn't snow here. Hell, even biking would be fun. :lol:
You do that and you'll end up dying in a ditch. Oh, and...VIDEO GAMES DON'T COUNT!
You can tell where the limit is, you just can't be stupid. No WOT into a corner, no WOT at all, in fact!
Exactly, if you so much as breath on the gas pedal it will usually break the rear end loose... this winter is going to be interesting :ph34r:
QuoteQuoteQuoteI drove a couple RWD cars in some snow. Good times. :praise:
Just turn sharply and give it the boot. Tail out action power time!!!!1!:praise:
too bad it doesn't snow here. Hell, even biking would be fun. :lol:
You do that and you'll end up dying in a ditch. Oh, and...VIDEO GAMES DON'T COUNT!
You can tell where the limit is, you just can't be stupid. No WOT into a corner, no WOT at all, in fact!
Exactly, if you so much as breath on the gas pedal it will usually break the rear end loose... this winter is going to be interesting :ph34r:
Maybe for someone with performance 245s mounted on the back of his car. :hammerhead:
We've kinda strayed off topic here. Sorry Ben!
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteI drove a couple RWD cars in some snow. Good times. :praise:
Just turn sharply and give it the boot. Tail out action power time!!!!1!:praise:
too bad it doesn't snow here. Hell, even biking would be fun. :lol:
You do that and you'll end up dying in a ditch. Oh, and...VIDEO GAMES DON'T COUNT!
You can tell where the limit is, you just can't be stupid. No WOT into a corner, no WOT at all, in fact!
Exactly, if you so much as breath on the gas pedal it will usually break the rear end loose... this winter is going to be interesting :ph34r:
Maybe for someone with performance 245s mounted on the back of his car. :hammerhead:
We've kinda strayed off topic here. Sorry Ben!
I'll definently be getting some snow tires for it.
So, like, why is this still a sticky?
I could replace this with a thread about rebuilding this Honda instead:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/280Z_Driver/221F.jpg)
:lol:
We're rebuilding it this winter.