Car has been good since last thread
http://www.carspin.net/index.php?topic=29977.0 (http://www.carspin.net/index.php?topic=29977.0)
So a few days back I turned on the heater and noticed the temp gauge get higher than normal. Played with shoving from cold to hot and back and it went back to normal.
This morning car heated up and no amount of adjusting the heater fixed anything. Pulled off when it got to the top. Wife came and I stole her car to get to work, she waited till it cooled off and started driving but it heated up right away again. She let it cool then drove it the rest of the way home. (only like 3-4miles to home total from where I left it.)
:rage:
-There was some coolant coming out of the radiator cap, didn't notice any anywhere else.
-reservoir was normal (3/4 full)
-no warm air ever came out of heater this morning
-everything else seems to be running fine.
Any ideas??? Do I need to take it to a shop? (or small duplex neighborhood says "no car repairs" but if it's just a thermostat.........)
Thanks in advance.!
Enough coolant?
Thermostat.
Think the thermostat is stuck closed so never sending to the radiator????
Why woudln't the heater work at all??????
OH both fans were on when I popped the hood, so they work.
The heater doesn't work when there's not coolant circulating in it.
Bubble in the system? A friend had the same symptoms in his WRX and that's what it ended up being.
Quote from: MX793 on October 02, 2014, 08:15:39 AM
Bubble in the system? A friend had the same symptoms in his WRX and that's what it ended up being.
That's what it was last time- in the heater again????? SIGH.
If you keep getting air your coolant, there's a gap somewhere in the system. Take a look for tears or bad fittings along the lines.
Take the cap off, run the car until it comes up to temp. The top hose should be hot and you should be able to see coolant flowing through the top tank toward where the hose attaches. If coolant's not moving and the top hose isn't hot, the coolant level should still suck down some if you blip the gas with the cap off. If it does, then it's probably the thermostat. If it doesn't, your water pump impeller is gone.
Also come on pulling off only after you peg the gauge? Turning the heater on never saved anybody from an overheating situation. It's a bandage to keep you rolling.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 02, 2014, 11:19:46 AM
Also come on pulling off only after you peg the gauge? Turning the heater on never saved anybody from an overheating situation. It's a bandage to keep you rolling.
I was running the heater before it started to get warm. Didn't pull over because there wasn't anywhere safe to do so. (4lane road, no shoulder)
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 02, 2014, 07:55:26 AM
Think the thermostat is stuck closed so never sending to the radiator????
Why woudln't the heater work at all??????
OH both fans were on when I popped the hood, so they work.
Could also be a stuck heater bypass valve, but that in general wont cause your temperature gauge to fluctuate.
so, crazy enough, I turned the car around to point up a 2% or so hill. Popped the cap, it was down some, put about 1/4 gallon in. I *guess* it leaked out when it was overheating.
Start it up, it indeed rose about 1/2 inch every time I blipped. So I let it run a while till it got to full temp (cap still off) and only poured a little more in, temp stayed right where it was supposed to. Then it started to overflow a tiny bit, so I shut it off, capped it, went for a short drive, on some really hilly low speed neighborhoods, no overheating, even with a/c on.
And the heater worked again. ?!?!?!?!
Noticed the alt/ power steering belt is frayed and missing small chunks, so drove to Autozone, then groceries, still no overheating, even up big long steep hills.
So weird. (to me)
Just driving to Auto Zone isn't going to fix the belt. You actually have to go inside and buy a new one, then put it in the car.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 02, 2014, 05:33:28 PM
Just driving to Auto Zone isn't going to fix the belt. You actually have to go inside and buy a new one, then put it in the car.
:clap:
Oh. Well we did the first two steps then.... :lol:
Tstat.
Hgask
Thread resurrection!!!!!
Ended up parking on a hill and opening/closing heat, refilled radiator, no problems since October, knock on wood!!!
Took Impreza to Fort Gordon to do some minor maintenance. It had sat unregistered from Feb to September (long story, wife lost title, had to resend to Utah several times), needed a new battery.
1- It's been making a grinding noise in the rear from braking, pads look good I'm assuming it's just rust.
2- rotated tires, all look good
3- It's been making a lot of muffler rattling, I tightened a hoseclamp around the offending heatshield. Weird that it doesn't look like anything is missing, bent or broken- but it's after the y-pipe before the cat. And lose as lose gets...
4- As I was finishing my drive in this morning it approached overheating again. I drove ok for the highway drive (60deg weather) but as I puttered down the 2miles of 25mph street (no stops) it got 3/4 hot. I turned the heater on and as I got around a corner into 35mph zone it cooled down some, I think the acceleration helped??
-Maybe there is a blockage in the cooling system?? It only seems to go down in temp at higher revs. ?!?!?!?!
Sigh.!
Is the cooling fan coming on?
Modern cars need a vacuum cooling system refill. This involves a vacuum pull down and refill. So sorry, but it's not 1985 anymore.
Quote from: shp4man on October 07, 2015, 01:01:06 PM
Modern cars need a vacuum cooling system refill. This involves a vacuum pull down and refill. So sorry, but it's not 1985 anymore.
Screw that. Jack up the radiator cap a few extra feet, and drive a new car underneath it.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 07, 2015, 01:07:49 PM
Screw that. Jack up the radiator cap a few extra feet, and drive a new car underneath it.
Won't work.
Maybe something with the water pump?
Quote from: MX793 on October 07, 2015, 02:08:23 PM
Maybe something with the water pump?
Water pump must have VTEC. :rastaman:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on October 07, 2015, 02:39:22 PM
Water pump must have VTEC. :rastaman:
Wondering if there's something going on with the impeller.
I will check on the fans- they should turn on when car is turned on and A/C is on, right?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 07, 2015, 05:41:06 PM
I will check on the fans- they should turn on when car is turned on and A/C is on, right?
Many cars will have two ekectric fans, one for the radiator, and one for the AC evaporator. They will cycle on and off, as needed.
But you said before (a year ago) the fans were working:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 02, 2014, 07:55:26 AM
Think the thermostat is stuck closed so never sending to the radiator????
Why woudln't the heater work at all??????
OH both fans were on when I popped the hood, so they work.
10minutes into my drive, cold air coming out with heat all the way up. Temp gauge spiked almost to the top. Pull over, fans are both running (a/c off), coolant reserve has overflowed some...
Argh!
Sounds like a blockage or another air bubble. Did you pressure test the system to make sure you don't have a leak somewhere that's allowing air into the system?
Quote from: MX793 on October 08, 2015, 06:25:57 AM
Sounds like a blockage or another air bubble. Did you pressure test the system to make sure you don't have a leak somewhere that's allowing air into the system?
+1, or water pump took a vacation.
I sat with the hood open a few minutes, let it cool off.
(I happened to be in an industrial area that's still under development, next to the "Delta Baggage Control Center" ((like 20miles from the nearest airport, weird)) and some lady parks her explorer in the middle of 4 parking spaces, gets a cup of noodles from the back hatch of the truck, and goes inside)
On the way home suddenly the heat turned hot and temp went down to normal, then it bounced up and down but never came back all the way down to normal... Wife will check with mechanic back in Utah whether he replaced the waterpump or not. I don't think it's the thermostat, it warms up normal and stays at that "normal" temp sometimes.
Thanks guys, will keep y'all posted!
air
Headgasket's failing. Or water pump is failing.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 08, 2015, 07:18:27 AM
I sat with the hood open a few minutes, let it cool off.
(I happened to be in an industrial area that's still under development, next to the "Delta Baggage Control Center" ((like 20miles from the nearest airport, weird)) and some lady parks her explorer in the middle of 4 parking spaces, gets a cup of noodles from the back hatch of the truck, and goes inside)
On the way home suddenly the heat turned hot and temp went down to normal, then it bounced up and down but never came back all the way down to normal... Wife will check with mechanic back in Utah whether he replaced the waterpump or not. I don't think it's the thermostat, it warms up normal and stays at that "normal" temp sometimes.
Thanks guys, will keep y'all posted!
Do you want to keep fixing this car? :huh: Is the radiator the origin zillion mile one? Sounds like Subaru shuts down the A/C when the engine overheats, don't know if the programming starts shutting down the engine on severe overheat situations as a fail safe, but you gotta fix this or Subie death is imminent. ;)
wife says the mechanic had said the headgasket was partially cracked.
Going to get it to the dealership asap. Has 82,000 miles on it but it's a 2005. Doubt we'll get a break warranty-wise, but it also probably needs t-belt, and the 90-120k services...
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 08, 2015, 11:14:46 AM
wife says the mechanic had said the headgasket was partially cracked.
Going to get it to the dealership asap. Has 82,000 miles on it but it's a 2005. Doubt we'll get a break warranty-wise, but it also probably needs t-belt, and the 90-120k services...
It won't be cheap, but it'll be good to get everything done.
As suspected, the headgasket needs to be replaced.
They said the overheating issue though is the radiator cap, it's defective so has caused some hoses to collapse (?). $75 for the fix.
We have decided to do the headgasket anyway, and timing belt & waterpump. $2100
Car is 2005, has 82k miles, needs to be ready for duty driving from SC to NY etc...
PS-
They have to order a waterpump?!?! I would think that the motors are common enough and were used long enough that they would have them in stock..
That seems worth it.
Quote from: Rupert on October 13, 2015, 12:59:33 PM
That seems worth it.
Yeah, it's a little early for the t-belt but they said basically there is no extra labor doing it now.
Even though it's "relatively" low miles for 10yr old car stuff still wears out over time. I'm not about to tackle those jobs. Wife paid the car off in 2010 so it's just free gravy for here out...
I thought this was the older Subie. The later model car is worth repairing.
Nah,older got engine swap Dec 2012...
Sigh. Overheats again.
No heat from heater, and normal temperature range, till 15min into my drive. Then it gets hot and heater starts working. Mostly gets hot at idle or low rpms. Downshift to above 2700 and child off quickly.
Supposedly they did water pump...
What the heck, man. You had all that work done and it didn't do anything?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 13, 2015, 04:15:42 AM
Sigh. Overheats again.
No heat from heater, and normal temperature range, till 15min into my drive. Then it gets hot and heater starts working. Mostly gets hot at idle or low rpms. Downshift to above 2700 and child off quickly.
Supposedly they did water pump...
Possibly coolant temp sensor? If it's overheating at low RPM's rad fan might not be kicking on.
But I'd take it to your mechanic and complain. You paid like 2k for a job that didn't fix it.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 13, 2015, 04:15:42 AM
Sigh. Overheats again.
No heat from heater, and normal temperature range, till 15min into my drive. Then it gets hot and heater starts working. Mostly gets hot at idle or low rpms. Downshift to above 2700 and child off quickly.
Supposedly they did water pump...
Well, take it back and let them tell you it's something else. The dealer probably has another boat payment due. ;)
Seriously, I feel your pain. Overheating problems are hard to diagnose sometimes. hen they replaced all that other stuff did they replace the thermostat? Flush the cooling system?
It did the same thing on my way to the dealership. I dropped it off, it looked like they were going to pull it in right then. But they called 2-3hrs later and asked what was wrong with it, said it wasn't overheating at all, no coolant issues, fans were turning on and off correctly.
He suspected the gauge is wrong but the car is running fine. (thermostat for radiator is different than sensor for dash?)
They didn't call back today though so we'll see.
BTW thanks for your ideas and help. :lol:
They said there was something plugged in the heater core/ coolant system. So to the tune of $186 they flushed the system including "back-flushed" the heater core.
On the way home (about 30min) it did the same trick. Warms up find but after ~20min of driving at lights or idle the temperature climbs rapidly, then as soon as we start driving again the temp drops. I got it on video when I took it back to them Saturday. Sigh.
On another note, they've detailed it every time we've taken it in. So shiny when it's clean!!! :rockon:
Wow. Set it on fire?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on November 23, 2015, 06:33:09 AM
Wow. Set it on fire?
NEGATORY.
It's a Subaru, first of all.
Second it's the best car I've ever owned. Only 82k miles. Still shiny. Great condition besides some overheating. Alloy wheels. Spoiler. Tint. Seat heaters. 6cd changer.
Third it's my wife's car, and it's totally completely paid off. No reason whatsoever to get rid of it.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 23, 2015, 06:54:51 AM
NEGATORY.
It's a Subaru, first of all.
Second it's the best car I've ever owned. Only 82k miles. Still shiny. Great condition besides some overheating. Alloy wheels. Spoiler. Tint. Seat heaters. 6cd changer.
Third it's my wife's car, and it's totally completely paid off. No reason whatsoever to get rid of it.
Oh no, I meant the shop that keeps stealing your money. Set it on fire.
Sounds like whatever is in the clogging it isn't getting completely purged when the flush it and is just re-clogging the core.
Sounds to me like the radiator fan isn't working. Get it to show hot on the guage and see if the fan is running.
Quote from: shp4man on November 23, 2015, 07:57:21 AM
Sounds to me like the radiator fan isn't working. Get it to show hot on the guage and see if the fan is running.
INTERMITTENT STICKY RELAY, LOOSE CONNECTOR, OR SHORT TO GROUND.
I bet the $2000 shop did basically zero electric diagnosis, other than saying yeah the fan comes on sometimes.
I hear the fans on. I got out and checked and they're on. :huh:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 23, 2015, 10:22:17 AM
I hear the fans on. I got out and checked and they're on. :huh:
Was the car running hot when you checked?- it has to be messing up when you check. The a/c may turn the fans on, is the a/c on when it overheats?, there may even be a code in PCM memory- dont know if Subaru has that or not.
Quote from: shp4man on November 23, 2015, 11:12:22 AM
Was the car running hot when you checked?- it has to be messing up when you check. The a/c may turn the fans on, is the a/c on when it overheats?, there may even be a code in PCM memory- dont know if Subaru has that or not.
Yes the car was overheating when I popped the hood. Yes the fans turn on when the a/c is on, whether the car is warmed up yet or not.
A/C has been off when it's been overheating. But I tried turning it on to see if it makes a difference. Nope.
Overheating is directly related to low idle. I pointed out that some of y'all said it sounds like fan impellers are damaged, they'll check it hopefully. (No I didn't name names or even reveal the secrets of the 'Spin)
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 23, 2015, 01:29:06 PM
Yes the car was overheating when I popped the hood. Yes the fans turn on when the a/c is on, whether the car is warmed up yet or not.
A/C has been off when it's been overheating. But I tried turning it on to see if it makes a difference. Nope.
Overheating is directly related to low idle. I pointed out that some of y'all said it sounds like fan impellers are damaged, they'll check it hopefully. (No I didn't name names or even reveal the secrets of the 'Spin)
Years ago I had a Mustang II. One day it started acting really odd. The temp gauge would slowly start climbing get to thye red and then fall back to normal. Sometimes, not always, at the same time the radio would get a bit staticy when the indicated temperature on the gauge was moving up. I tried everything and finally found the cause. A poor engine to body ground.
They said they can't get it to overheat (we took it back Saturday).
here's the video on my way back there. I was at a light then at 0:37 I paused it and started recording again as I slowed to another light.
I don't know why Youtube flipped it sideways- I held the phone landscape-wise. :huh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzK5JdXKFi8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzK5JdXKFi8)
I had something similar happen in my Monte Carlo. Gauge would say it was overheating even though it never actually was. It confused the mechanics just as much. Turned out to be some sensor fault.
It definitely gets hot, smelled antifreeze when I popped hood...
I am confus :rage:
Got car back Friday, drove it zero issues. Shop said they couldn't get it to overheat, must have been air bubble in system.
Yesterday I drove Impreza to work. Going home on interstate pegged the very top of the gauge before I could pull over and let it cool off. Anything below 3k rpms started to climb, so I drove in ultra-high gear.
Drove it back to dealership this morning, no signs whatsoever of overheating. ?!?!??!!?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rage:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on December 08, 2015, 06:56:00 AM
Got car back Friday, drove it zero issues. Shop said they couldn't get it to overheat, must have been air bubble in system.
Yesterday I drove Impreza to work. Going home on interstate pegged the very top of the gauge before I could pull over and let it cool off. Anything below 3k rpms started to climb, so I drove in ultra-high gear.
Drove it back to dealership this morning, no signs whatsoever of overheating. ?!?!??!!?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rage:
Dude.
You spent enough money at that shop that they should ride along with you to work and see how it happens.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on December 08, 2015, 07:14:06 AM
Dude.
You spent enough money at that shop that they should ride along with you to work and see how it happens.
I was going to make them ride this morning but it didn't overheat. They said they drove it all over and it didn't happen for them. And idled it in the parking lot. Indeed they drove 80+ miles and burned an entire tank of gas last week.
So only got a little warm down in South Carolina, Subaru couldn't reproduce the problem. Drives ok sometimes but we have still seen the gauge spike.
Took it to a shop on-base NY (Firestone). Couldn't get it to overheat.
I'm on a "text stop" on the interstate , spikedway high, revving to more than 4k gauge drops right down. I shut it off, coolant leaked from the cap obviously. ARGH!
Take a video next time it happens so you can show the mechanics you're not a loony. :lol:
Quote from: giant_mtb on February 06, 2016, 11:42:30 AM
Take a video next time it happens so you can show the mechanics you're not a loony. :lol:
Already did.... :(
One of them will ride with me first thing Monday morning.
https://youtu.be/NzK5JdXKFi8
That's one drive but the video was paused in the middle of two Overheats. And yes I held the camera the direct way , then YouTube flipped it sideways...
Dude, this won't be easy to fix. If the car is actually overheating, its some kind of weird shit with a piece of gasket/debris closing a passage in the cooking system or some other really oddball thing..
So I drove the car and got it to overheat status and took it right in this morning.
They said the upper rad hose was hot but lower was not. They recommended starting with thermostat and a flush. Did that and they called and said t-stat was defective, also the upper rad hose was leaking- a new clamp fixed that issue. ALSO, once they pressurized it to test the rad hoses found a leak in the top of the radiator.
Today's adventure will be $577 and will hopefully fix it.
I suspect the thermostat was bad all along- and the Subaru dealer in Georgia should have checked that?!....
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 08, 2016, 09:22:03 AM
So I drove the car and got it to overheat status and took it right in this morning.
They said the upper rad hose was hot but lower was not. They recommended starting with thermostat and a flush. Did that and they called and said t-stat was defective, also the upper rad hose was leaking- a new clamp fixed that issue. ALSO, once they pressurized it to test the rad hoses found a leak in the top of the radiator.
Today's adventure will be $577 and will hopefully fix it.
I suspect the thermostat was bad all along- and the Subaru dealer in Georgia should have checked that?!....
Was the tstat replaced when they did the head gaskets? Did they recommend it then? Wish I could see all the paperwork on this car.
Thermostats get stuck in the open position though :huh:
They get stuck in both positions, and sometimes they just get slow. Had it happen a couple of times in different cars.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 08, 2016, 01:38:09 PM
They get stuck in both positions, and sometimes they just get slow. Had it happen a couple of times in different cars.
Really? I thought they were designed to only fail open. I don't really know the inner workings of tstats, though. I did half-watch an episode of How It's Made about car tstats...had no clue they used wax in them!
Quote from: shp4man on February 08, 2016, 10:37:23 AM
Was the tstat replaced when they did the head gaskets? Did they recommend it then? Wish I could see all the paperwork on this car.
No and no. The car had been overheating sporadically already- we did gasket, water pump, t- belt all as periodic maintenance. (Well, gasket was "slightly cracked")
Car was coming up on 90k miles (10yrs) and we had the money available plus upcoming move and sale of Legacy ( so down to 2 cars.)
Quote from: giant_mtb on February 08, 2016, 01:55:40 PM
Really? I thought they were designed to only fail open. I don't really know the inner workings of tstats, though. I did half-watch an episode of How It's Made about car tstats...had no clue they used wax in them!
People keep saying that; but nobody can show me one and explain how. It's a was cylinder and a spring. It rusts shut, the cylinder goes sideways- it's stuck shut. Pulled out more than one like that.
I asked the shop that- he said they fail open or closed.
Kinda makes sense that it was the t-stat because it only overheats once it's wellllll warmed up- and then pushed some. I don't get why it cools off quick when it's revved real high- I guess just a factor of coolant going through the system past the temp sensor even though it can't cool off all the way through the radiator??
Sigh- Firestone finished rad and t-stat. Test drive it over heated again. They pulled the cap and found exhaust gases in the coolant. Head gasket or cracked cylinder head?
I hate challenging but we'll have to talk with Subaru now probably....
Any sign of coolant in the oil? Excessive white smoke coming from the exhaust (tough one given the time of year)?
There's a pretty large Subaru contingent in Upstate NY. Before you go to a dealer, you may want to try to find a good independent who may be more affordable.
No and no- but Subaru in Georgia should have fixed this- going to have to haggle to get some/ most of it paid...
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 08, 2016, 02:07:11 PM
People keep saying that; but nobody can show me one and explain how. It's a was cylinder and a spring. It rusts shut, the cylinder goes sideways- it's stuck shut. Pulled out more than one like that.
Guess it's just one of those myths!
I can't believe this Subaru is still overheating.
Mighty Max has a constant cracked head/head gasket leak. It blows white smoke and overflows coolant out the cap from the excess pressure, but it doesn't overheat.
Smell coolant in the exhaust. I was shopping replacement motors on the web. :(
H6
NY Subaru said to talk with GA Subaru first. Service manager there said he'll pay the $99 NY Subaru diagnostic fee but nothing he can do after that...
On hold now to get it towed to the NY Subaru- it's about 12miles away.
(replacement engines are $1500 with 30day warranty or Autozone has $3k with 3yr warranty.....) :(
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 15, 2016, 11:34:04 AM
NY Subaru said to talk with GA Subaru first. Service manager there said he'll pay the $99 NY Subaru diagnostic fee but nothing he can do after that...
On hold now to get it towed to the NY Subaru- it's about 12miles away.
(replacement engines are $1500 with 30day warranty or Autozone has $3k with 3yr warranty.....) :(
Are you still making payments on this car?
Quote from: shp4man on February 15, 2016, 01:18:58 PM
Are you still making payments on this car?
Nah, she bought it new in 2005 and paid it off in 2010. It has 89k miles. Everything else is tip top shape.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on February 15, 2016, 04:34:01 PM
Nah, she bought it new in 2005 and paid it off in 2010. It has 89k miles. Everything else is tip top shape.
I realize you can't replace it for the 3-4 grand it'll take to fix it. But damn, maybe it's time for car shopping. Sell it to 2o6 for a deal! ;)
If it's just the head gasket, you may not need to replace the whole motor. Heck, even a cracked head may not necessitate and entire motor.
Yeah, hope it can last a good while longer.
Subaru here in NY said they want to pull the heads to check for cracks/ warpage, and inspect the block. To the tune of a few thousand.
I found cheap used longblocks for $1500, Autozone has them for $3500 with a 3yr warranty....
I asked Dealer to figure up the price of a new motor, and what is actually replaced. The compressor, belts, and alternator were good on the current engine...
And funny story, Fuccillo imports (Watertown NY) is the Subaru dealer here. Along with Hyundai, Mazda, etc... Tiniest multi-make dealer I've seen.!
Fuccillo is a huge (pun intended) chain in upstate. They not only have a bunch of dealerships for various brands scattered around upstate, but they also have a couple of dealerships in Florida.
I would find a Subaru specialist and see if they can source a long block and swap. I'm spoiled; I know guys who could do this for $1500, block installed.
Quote from: 2o6 on February 17, 2016, 09:50:17 AM
I would find a Subaru specialist and see if they can source a long block and swap. I'm spoiled; I know guys who could do this for $1500, block installed.
I got Legacy motor swap done for $2200.
I authorized them to take the heads off to a machine shop to inspect ..
I'll see what they say and start looking for other shops.
That's a lot of labor
Fuccillo Subaru took the heads off and sent them to a machine shop. Said the driver side is cracked, other one is ok. Also saw crystallized antifreeze in the (new) radiator. Because of the overheating issues they think there will be problems down the road- recommend replacing the motor and radiator. $5500 with 12k mile/ 12month warranty. I'm going to call other shops.
Another shop says $600-800 labor to swap, used engines are $1000-1500. He agrees once it's been overheated several times to swap it. Also says that cracked headgasket or warped heads can cause the overheating issues.
EDIT
Found a local engine, place will put a 5yr warranty on it, total $3825 if we pay cash (LOL no taxes) including radiator and flush the heatercore...
We're going with this option.
Car bluebooks at $6600-6900.
So aggravating we spent so much money at the place in Georgia and they couldn't figure it out/fix it.
Id buy a new car
Quote from: 2o6 on February 24, 2016, 09:20:01 AM
Id buy a new car
She loves her car and there's no way to find a Subaru with no rust under $4000 around here. Tires are new, tranny is good, everything but motor is ready for another 100k miles. (It has under 89k miles on the odometer.)
Quote from: 2o6 on February 24, 2016, 09:20:01 AM
Id buy a new car
That was my first though but if it's a $6500 car then it'll cost more money to buy another similar car than to just swap the engine. Assuming that the engine swap fixes everything and the car is on good shape for a while to come.
Impreza is back. $3800 for motor swap, total.
-new t-belt, thermostat, radiator, oil pump, waterpump. flushed heatercore.
Shop put a "5yr warranty" on the engine and claims if it breaks when we live in Texas (or wherever, he just picked something random) the place he bought the motor from would send a replacement and pay $55/hr to replace it. Kinda sketchy but he asked us to bring it back in a couple weeks so he can look over all the bolts to make sure they're still tight, free of charge.
Hopefully that drama is done- thing overheated slightly way back in 2014 and just got worse and worse. Crack in head might have been culprit the whole time?!?!...
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on March 04, 2016, 09:42:52 AM
Kinda sketchy but he asked us to bring it back in a couple weeks so he can look over all the bolts to make sure they're still tight, free of charge.
That's standard procedure for head replacement, don't worry.