So we just moved, our street and driveway are pretty inclined. The sport van's parking brake doesn't hold the van on either one, so I took it over to the garage to adjust it tonight.
That slot that you can usually access the little wheel to adjust the (Drum) brakes has a CABLE right inside it. I had to pull the wheels/drums off to access it!! So then I adjust then have to put them back on to check that it's right.
(Supposedly you tighten them until there's a slight drag?)
And so I get both to where I think they're right, I put the brake on to check, and both don't move. (The back was on jackstands, but I was spinning the tire by hand.) I pop the brake, and the right side is completely stuck!
I figured I'd overtightened that side, so I take the wheel and drum off (for whatever reason the drum will only move under threat of hammer.) and loosen some. I spin it though and it just keeps going forever. I try the brakes again, it doesn't hold at all. So I tighten it a alittle and it's stuck again, then I repeat and loosen just one thread on the adjuster.
Then it doesn't work at all again... So the cable is probably messed up, I didn't have time to deal with it today.
Seriously, why on earth do you put everything so you CAN'T access it?? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
They hate you over there at Dodge.
With the ebrake released make sure everything retracts properly. Get it close in the air, put the drum on and apply the foot brakes a couple of times. Recheck. If it has loosened up repeat the process. Then drive it in reverse at a decent clip, and freakin slam on the brakes up to the threshold. That helps make the final adjustment. Then check your ebrake to see if it holds. If not, try adjusting it under the dash.
Quote from: R-inge on November 04, 2006, 06:15:50 AM
With the ebrake released make sure everything retracts properly.? Get it close in the air, put the drum on and apply the foot brakes a couple of times.? Recheck.? If it has loosened up repeat the process.? Then drive it in reverse at a decent clip, and freakin slam on the brakes up to the threshold.? That helps make the final adjustment.? Then check your ebrake to see if it holds.? If not, try adjusting it under the dash.
Is there any easier way to adjust the crap without taking the drum off?
It's like they put the slot on to tease you, you SHOULD be able to fit a tool through, but the ebrake cable is in the way. You wouldn't be able to loosen, either, since you can't reach the little lever that acts like the ratchet..
The problem it has now is that the right side wasn't working with the other side. After I held the release and stomped on the pedal a buncha times the pedal finally moves with smooth movement (it felt pretty much stuck when I first started,) and the left side seems to work fine. The right side (under the drum) seems to all work fine, I hit it with a lot of wd-40 anyways. (
Note: do this AFTER you take the drippan full of brake dust cleaner out from under it. They seem to react.. :banghead: )
How do I figure out where the problem is? I'm going to lift it up and check the cable(s) for damage and rust, probably not until next week though...
Quote from: Psilos on November 04, 2006, 12:12:09 AM
They hate you over there at Dodge.
Tell me about it.
Don't get me started about the unnecessary bolt to hold an a/c line that is perfectly in the way to interfere with getting a wrench on the serpentine belt pulley. (On the Plymouth.)
If they'd just moved that little clip/bolt a couple inches up or down life would be SO MUCH easier.. :rage:
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 04, 2006, 06:29:20 AM
Is there any easier way to adjust the crap without taking the drum off?
It's like they put the slot on to tease you, you SHOULD be able to fit a tool through, but the ebrake cable is in the way. You wouldn't be able to loosen, either, since you can't reach the little lever that acts like the ratchet..
The problem it has now is that the right side wasn't working with the other side. After I held the release and stomped on the pedal a buncha times the pedal finally moves with smooth movement (it felt pretty much stuck when I first started,) and the left side seems to work fine. The right side (under the drum) seems to all work fine, I hit it with a lot of wd-40 anyways. (Note: do this AFTER you take the drippan full of brake dust cleaner out from under it. They seem to react.. :banghead: )
How do I figure out where the problem is?
I'm going to lift it up and check the cable(s) for damage and rust, probably not until next week though...
I'm not familiar with drum adjustment on Dodge vehicles, thank the sweet Lord. I know my wife's drums aren't adjustable from the rear. The system is supposed to be self adjusting, so that every time you apply the brakes in reverse the servo action on the brakes causes the adjuster to ratchet up to the next notch if there is any room to do so. However with some amount of rust that can be impaired, and really you have to be going pretty quick and stomp on it in reverse to get it to work right.
I had my wiper blades changed, and the guy said it was the best wiper blade design he'd ever seen.
Quote from: Raza on November 04, 2006, 11:51:32 AM
I had my wiper blades changed, and the guy said it was the best wiper blade design he'd ever seen.
You talking about those bosch-style blades? I just put some on my wife's car, I dig em.
Quote from: R-inge on November 04, 2006, 04:23:39 PM
You talking about those bosch-style blades? I just put some on my wife's car, I dig em.
Yeah, the swivel out and pull off type. Bosch is the brand of blade I got, too.
EDIT: I still lament having two blades, but what are you to do? So few cars come with one nowadays.
Quote from: Raza on November 04, 2006, 07:09:38 PM
Yeah, the swivel out and pull off type. Bosch is the brand of blade I got, too.
EDIT: I still lament having two blades, but what are you to do? So few cars come with one nowadays.
What's wrong with having two? What's so great about having one?
you obviously havent seen a mercedes wiper system in action. i wonder why they went back to two?
Quote from: Raza on November 04, 2006, 07:09:38 PM
Yeah, the swivel out and pull off type. Bosch is the brand of blade I got, too.
EDIT: I still lament having two blades, but what are you to do? So few cars come with one nowadays.
I was also thinking of these :
(http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyres/290B3FB6-797D-4ED1-ACCD-6A61BA2FCD47/0/Icon360.jpg)
Quote from: M_power on November 04, 2006, 10:47:36 PM
What's wrong with having two? What's so great about having one?
One works so well. And, it's cooler, since most Touring cars have one, I believe.
Bosch blades here too.
:praise:
And I'm not too excited about single blade systems. I drove an older Merc (97 or so) once that had it, and in really light rain, it would just streak like mad on the the downstroke.
Two blades is superior, if for nothing else then symmetry.
I'd blame the finance people.
Quote from: GoCougs on November 08, 2006, 06:08:37 PM
I'd blame the finance people.
Dumb Bean Counters.. :devil:
Toyota (OEM) blades for me.
Turns out that one blade is longer then the other, so either I buy 2 sets of Bosch blades or one set of Toyota blades (they sell them individually) :rolleyes:
Quote from: The Pirate on November 08, 2006, 05:59:35 PM
And I'm not too excited about single blade systems. I drove an older Merc (97 or so) once that had it, and in really light rain, it would just streak like mad on the the downstroke.
Two blades is superior, if for nothing else then symmetry.
Actually one blade is symmetric, two blades have an uneven wave pattern.
Also, the blade you had must have been worn; mine never did that.
completely agree with you there.
it's awesome watching it on its fastest setting, going up in the corners and retracting for the top of the windshield.
Quote from: Raza on November 28, 2006, 09:54:04 AM
Actually one blade is symmetric, two blades have an uneven wave pattern.
Also, the blade you had must have been worn; mine never did that.
When they aren't moving, two at rest looks better IMO. As far as the blade being shot, that is very possible.
It's a moot point as to my preferences, as I've come to terms with the fact that I will probably never own a Mercedes.
(http://www.racingsportscars.com/etcc/1986/Spa-1986-08-03-042.jpg)
(http://www.performancebmwmag.com/images/page-images/e30-m3-full.jpg)
(http://motor.tuportada.com/img/wp/mercedes-clk-dtm-12.jpg)
(http://www.fourtitude.com/gallery/albums/Motorsport/DTM/2005/Oschersleben/015.jpg)
(http://users.skynet.be/fa329618/Audi%20TT%20DTM.jpg)
That's why one blade is better.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 03, 2006, 04:40:53 PM
So we just moved, our street and driveway are pretty inclined. The sport van's parking brake doesn't hold the van on either one, so I took it over to the garage to adjust it tonight.
That slot that you can usually access the little wheel to adjust the (Drum) brakes has a CABLE right inside it. I had to pull the wheels/drums off to access it!! So then I adjust then have to put them back on to check that it's right.
(Supposedly you tighten them until there's a slight drag?)
And so I get both to where I think they're right, I put the brake on to check, and both don't move. (The back was on jackstands, but I was spinning the tire by hand.) I pop the brake, and the right side is completely stuck!
I figured I'd overtightened that side, so I take the wheel and drum off (for whatever reason the drum will only move under threat of hammer.) and loosen some. I spin it though and it just keeps going forever. I try the brakes again, it doesn't hold at all. So I tighten it a alittle and it's stuck again, then I repeat and loosen just one thread on the adjuster.
Then it doesn't work at all again... So the cable is probably messed up, I didn't have time to deal with it today.
Seriously, why on earth do you put everything so you CAN'T access it?? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
Make sure you don't end up with any spare bolts you can't explain.
Quote from: sparkplug on November 28, 2006, 10:14:04 PM
Make sure you don't end up with any spare bolts you can't explain.
LOL
That was when I changed the clutch on the SHO.
I had to remove part of the exhaust, axles, suspend the engine to get the subframe off, and more, just to get the tranny off.
I figured one or two 'extras' wasn't too bad for several days (I'm a klutz) of work.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 29, 2006, 09:52:51 AM
LOL
That was when I changed the clutch on the SHO.
I had to remove part of the exhaust, axles, suspend the engine to get the subframe off, and more, just to get the tranny off.
I figured one or two 'extras' wasn't too bad for several days (I'm a klutz) of work.
Nothing wrong with a little DIY weight savings program.
How do you think my car got as light is it is? :devil:
Lighter still since parts of the exhaust keep falling off. :lol: