"Home system" subwoofer in a car?

[giant_mtb]

I was sittin' in my car today watching the sunset on the lake earlier tonight, and was just thinking about this, that, and the other thing, and an idea crossed my mind.  On my head unit (aftermarket Alpine), there are plugs on the back for a subwoofer.  Red and white, I believe...called "RCA" plugs?  Whatever they're called, it doesn't matter.  My idea - question, rather - was if it would be possible to use a home stereo system subwoofer instead of a "dedicated" car stereo sub?  The reason I ask is because I find that most car subs are ridiculously overpriced and not worth it.  Sure, there's cheap ones, but then you've gotta buy a box ('nother 50-60 bucks) and an amp ('nother 100-150 bucks) if you go "cheap".  And from what I've seen, most home stereo subs are self-amplified and they're already in boxes!  They're relatively cheap, as well.  So, if I found one that used "RCA" plugs, would it be feasible to hook it up to my car stereo?

I'm not a rattle-the-windows gang banger...I'd just get a simple 1-200W 8-inch sub to add a bit more depth and punch to my music.  Going down the highway at higher speeds noticeably takes out some of the low-end sound, and I think a sub would bring those back to a more comfortable level.

Whaddya think?  I've got ~60 bucks layin' around as of now, and I could easily save up enough within the next month or two to afford a decent one.



EDIT:  A couple quick examples I pulled up off of Crutchfield.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FjWUhdxxdHA/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=12300&I=158SAW2500
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FjWUhdxxdHA/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=12300&I=108PS8


...Also, I suppose I'd have to "power" it, too...meaning hard-wiring it to my electrical system?  I've got a friend who's good with that stuff, so I wouldn't be worried about that.

[SVT666]

It's not that simple if I remember correctly.  Home systems and car systems run at different Ohm ratings?!?!?!?!

[giant_mtb]

It's not that simple if I remember correctly.  Home systems and car systems run at different Ohm ratings?!?!?!?!

Just like buying a dedicated car-system sub, I'd just have to match ohm ratings, no?

[giant_mtb]

As far as hooking it up electrically, do you think it would be legit to get one of those converters that plugs into your cigarette lighter and makes it possible to plug things in?  I suppose I'd be worried about over-powering/-heating it...whaddya think?

[Danish]

I'm pretty sure it would draw too much power for use in the car....

Would be heavy as hell too

[giant_mtb]

I'm pretty sure it would draw too much power for use in the car....

Would be heavy as hell too

Well, I could somehow hard-wire it, I'm sure.

...any subwoofer is heavy.  Home stereo, car stereo, computer stereo...Besides, I'll at least have peace of mind knowing it won't slide around very easily!

[Pancor]

A home subwoofer would most likely require 115V, so you'd need an invertor to power it, as already mentioned.  Otherwise, I'd imagine it would work, as it should probably have a built-in crossover and only need an audio signal at this point.....

[giant_mtb]

A home subwoofer would most likely require 115V, so you'd need an invertor to power it, as already mentioned.  Otherwise, I'd imagine it would work, as it should probably have a built-in crossover and only need an audio signal at this point.....

So you think I could use one of those inverters to power it? 

[Soup DeVille]

It's not that simple if I remember correctly.? Home systems and car systems run at different Ohm ratings?!?!?!?!

I think most home systems are 8 ohm impedance just like car systems, but something tells me its just not a good idea. I don't know exactly what at this point though.

[giant_mtb]

If I remember right, a friend of mine did it a while ago with an old 10" he had in his basement.  I don't remember him having any problems or anything.    Maybe I'll go to a few electronics stores and car audio shops and ask them...they'd probably know for sure. 

[sportyaccordy]

I did it in my first Maxima. You'll need

- the amplified sub (obviously)
- about 25' of RCA cable
- an AC/DC power inverter... I would go with something about 2-3 times the rated power of your sub.

The OG Bose system was OK bass-wise, but I wanted a little more oomph, so a friend of mine gave me his MTX 10" sub. That really helped round out the system.

A "proper" sub setup won't cost that much more though, and you won't have to bother with silly AC/DC converters (or frying up your 16 AWG wiring powering your cigarette lighter). Installation's a bit more involved but IMO it's worth it. Plus there are a lot of decent all-in-one sub/amp packages that should fit your price range (~$200 for everything?)...

Good luck on your search!!!

[giant_mtb]

Yeah, that's why I was thinking about getting a lower-wattage (maybe around 100-150) sub as opposed to something more powerful.  I'm just looking to add a bit more depth to the system.  I don't want a ground-pounding subw00fer.  I listen to a lot of rock and metal music, and a high-powered sub really isn't necessary, if at all.    Thanks for the input...I'll take a look at some of those all-in-one packages on Crutchfield or somethin'. 

[giant_mtb]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-m75mxUhwIMo/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&I=105CSBB2

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-m75mxUhwIMo/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&I=113KSCSW1

I like that first one because of its price, and the second one because it's a dual-sub system that isn't huge.  I don't like big subwoofers.  They're too muddy and they're only good for rattling your car to pieces.  All I want is tight, punchy, and crisp bass to complement bass drums, bass guitars, toms, and the already-great bass of my current 6x9s. 

The first one has 30+ reviews and only 1 or 2 are negative...most people said it was exactly what they (and I) were looking for.  Tight, crisp bass that won't overpower.  And for 150 bucks?  I could even wire it myself with the help of a friend, so that would save me ~50 bucks of installation.  I also like the fact that both of those examples have wired remotes to control the bass level.  I am constantly changing the EQ on my head unit back and forth between two or three settings, depending on what type of music I'm listening to, and being able to control the sub manually without having to go through too many menus on the HU would be great.

? 

[r0tor]

search around for some used equipment (there is always an abundance of people getting rid of stuff).

In my old car i had 2 12" kicker subs in a kicker box and a decent amp.  I believe I paid $75 for everything.

[giant_mtb]

search around for some used equipment (there is always an abundance of people getting rid of stuff).

In my old car i had 2 12" kicker subs in a kicker box and a decent amp.  I believe I paid $75 for everything.

That's the kinda stuff that I don't want, and that's the kinda stuff that people have around here.  DEWD MY SUBS RATTLE MY CAR SO BAD MY WHEELZ FELL OFF ONCE, SO I PUT AN EVEN BIGGER AMP ON 'EM TO SEE IF I COULD UNBOLT THE ENGINEZ!

I wouldn't trust a used speaker system, really, unless I knew the person personally and knew for a fact they didn't use it too hard or abuse it.  Knowing today's people, that's pretty much impossible.

[r0tor]

Just because i could make the hatch rattle, doesn't mean that i really ever did as my headunit had controls for the sub volume.    I don't see the big deal with buying used speakers since you can tell pretty much instantly if a speaker is hosed or not... and for $75 for an amp, box, and woofers its hard to go wrong

[Champ]

Speakers are easy to buy used...
Blown or not, easy to tell.  If they look good then what's the problem?

[giant_mtb]

Just because i could make the hatch rattle, doesn't mean that i really ever did as my headunit had controls for the sub volume.    I don't see the big deal with buying used speakers since you can tell pretty much instantly if a speaker is hosed or not... and for $75 for an amp, box, and woofers its hard to go wrong

I meant nothing against you, personally.  I just don't like the idea of buying used things if I don't know how (much) they were used by the previous owner.

[Tave]

I'm pulling this out of my ass as I type, but I'd imagine that a home-system sub isn't designed to soak up all the bumps, rattles, shakes, and other abuse a car sub is built to handle.

[giant_mtb]

I'm pulling this out of my ass as I type, but I'd imagine that a home-system sub isn't designed to soak up all the bumps, rattles, shakes, and other abuse a car sub is built to handle.

...valid point.

[Soup DeVille]

I'm pulling this out of my ass as I type, but I'd imagine that a home-system sub isn't designed to soak up all the bumps, rattles, shakes, and other abuse a car sub is built to handle.

I thought about that, but a sub vibrates itself so much, I don't think some extra car related bumps would make a difference.

[sportyaccordy]

I thought about that, but a sub vibrates itself so much, I don't think some extra car related bumps would make a difference.

Both valid points.

As far as sizing I don't think a 6.5" sub would be enough. 1 12" would do the trick. I've done a lot of car audio work and one thing that I hate the most is putting together a system and realizing it's not enough. It's better to overshoot and understress the system than blow it up.

[giant_mtb]

Both valid points.

As far as sizing I don't think a 6.5" sub would be enough. 1 12" would do the trick. I've done a lot of car audio work and one thing that I hate the most is putting together a system and realizing it's not enough. It's better to overshoot and understress the system than blow it up.

That's a good point.

[Champ]

I meant nothing against you, personally. I just don't like the idea of buying used things if I don't know how (much) they were used by the previous owner.

Did you get your car new or used?

I'd buy a used setup, it will run you WAY less money.  Speaker performance is mostly binary, either it works or it doesn't.