A few issues

[TBR]

So I recently took the Prelude to the Honda dealer for what they called a used car inspection. I just wanted to make sure it was in good working order for my trip to NC in August. The results were pretty positive considering the cars age and the minimal amount of work I have done to it, here is what it needs:

Valve adjustment
Front engine mount
Clutch slave cylinder
Condenser Fan.

Nothing urgent (the slave cylinder is just leaking). I am inclined to have the dealer or an independent shop do the valve adjustment and engine mount and I'll wait for the condenser fan to actually go out and then do that myself. My main question is whether or not I should attempt the slave cylinder myself? I am not particularly talented mechanically, but it seems like it would be straight forward. The advisor also said that typically the other cylinder (the master in this case) would start leaking once one of them was replaced so I should just do them both at once. Is that just BS or is there some truth to it? Also, this has nothing to do with the brake master cylinder, right? Because that was replaced, but they should be on completely different "circuits", right?

Additionally, I forgot to tell them about the two problems I actually know about: the oil light comes on on occasion and the power steering groans. I figure I just need a new power steering belt (a DIY job?) and I think the oil light is probably an electrical issue, turning the car off and then back on always fixes it, normally for two-three days.

[JWC]

It is more likely for it to leak once the pressure is back to normal...if the M/C is weak already.  It is a judgment call based on the fact that both parts have the same amount of years and miles on them...and one has already failed.

It is also a CYA moment for the advisor.  If the shop replaces ths S/C and then the M/C starts leaking a few days later, most people will go back to the shop and claim (a) you replaced the wrong part or (b) you sabatoged my car.  Have had both happen.

Also have let customer's talk me out of doing related work like this only for it to bite me in the ass days later.  Actually, I let her neighbor the proverbial "I used to be a mechanic" guy talk me out of having a radiator checked and serviced during a head gasket replacement.  Days later, once the pressure was back up, the radiator blew out and who got the blame?  Me.  From the customer and from my boss...the boss because I went against company policy.  The girl even ran it hot again and blew the new head gasket and we had to replace that for free..because I didn't follow company procedures.

[TBR]

Just wanted to double check, I have had numerous mechanics screw me or try to screw me despite the minor amount of work I have had done to my car.

[AutobahnSHO]

Engine mounts are generally easy, depending on your setup though.

I'd say repair all that you can afford to now rather than have it cost you more later...

[TBR]

I can afford to do it all now. The only thing I don't want to do right now is the condenser fan, that shouldn't cause any kind of issues, should it?

[CJ]

Just do it all.  You'll have to do it sooner or later.

[TBR]

That still doesn't answer my main question, are the slave and master cylinders something I should attempt myself?

And, I am planning on waiting until I am in NC since none of it is pressing (I have found a good Honda specialist in Winston-Salem).

[Secret Chimp]

I think that generation Prelude is based a little on the Accord, and I was able to do the front mount on mine pretty easily when I took the radiator out. You could probably do it just by taking the fans off of the radiator.

Slave/master cylinders are supposedly universally easy to rebuild, but I'd browse the FAQ stickies on honda-tech.com to make sure. Usually just replacing a few seals and bleeding the thing out.

[TBR]

What is the procedure? And, yes, it does share quite a few parts with the Accord.

[Secret Chimp]

Assuming the fans are out, it's pretty straightforward. First of all you want to raise the engine just enough to see it visibly shift up a half inch or so with a floor jack and a block of wood against the oil pan.
Then you pretty much have the whole thing in front of you - you want to remove the bracket that connects the mount to the block first. It has one through-bolt for the mount - there is only one side that you can turn.
The right side of the mount has a nut welded to it, you have to loosen it from the left. I may remember backwards, so loosen using a socket on the head side of the bolt, whichever side that is.
Once the through-bolt is out (you may need to use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock it through the rubber once it's free of the threads) you can crack the bracket loose from the block. I think it's attached with 4 bolts. They may be of different lengths so be careful with mixing them up.
Once the bracket is off, you can see the four bolts that hold the mount to the front crossmember. You're going to need a good eighteen inches of extensions or so to give yourself room to lever the thing, but they all crack loose easy enough with one hand on top of the end of the breaker bar and the other hand pulling.
Installation is the reverse of removal - I believe you want to torque the bracket-to-block bolts only moderately, then lower the engine off of the jack and then correctly torque them.
Essentially your only problem is getting clearance, either by removing fans or removing the radiator.
If you haven't done your coolant recently, you might as well pull the whole radiator so you can replace the condenser fan with easier access. It's really easy to take out.

[Soup DeVille]

This is up to you.

A failed condensor fan could mean the A/c will quit on you.

A leaking clutch S/C will mean lower and lower clutch engagement until you're out of fluid or it fails.

Then engine mount is usually just a noise problem. The rubber part is probably cracked or rotten. You're engine is not going to fall out or anything but it may not feel very smooth when you take off.

The valve adjustment starts out as just a noise thing, but can lead to serious engine damage. It's also a huge PITA to do it yourself.

My recommendation would be to have the shop do the valve lash adjustment before your trip.

Everything else I'd say is safe to wait on, and it can all be a DIY project if you wish.

[TBR]

Thanks, I'll call tomorrow to make an appointment for the valve adjustment. For now I'll be sure to keep an eye on the clutch fluid level.