Information about the Porsche 944, non turbo

[BMWDave]

My friend is considering a Porsche 944, non turbo.  I was wondering if anyone could tell me about inherent problems in 944s, reliability issues, and such.  If anyone knew any information, I would appreciate it :)

[R33 GT-R]

Did you try seaching?

[giant_mtb]

[Tom]

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924/944/968 Frequently Asked Questions
5.0 First-Time Buyer Questions
5.1 Where's the best place to find a used Porsche? How much should I pay?
You can get a feel for prices in a couple different places. Check with local Porsche dealerships, see whether they have any cars you're interested in. Check your local paper. In North America, pick up a copy of Excellence, or in the UK a copy of 911 and Porsche World. Both of these independent Porsche magazines carry classifieds. If you can get in touch with your local Porsche club, or find a good, local independent Porsche service shop, they can be an excellent source of referrals and information.

Should you go the extra length of looking in southern states for your car? You can find good, clean 924/944/968 cars just about anywhere. Because of their construction with galvanized metal, they don't rust. Many owners store them in winters, anyway.

5.2 What should I look for, do, or ask about, when considering a prospective car?
Complete maintenance records. Correcting one or two problems that the previous owner skipped can easily surpass any cost savings you may have received by buying a car that was not maintained regularly.

Find a nice car. If the car looks good and is well taken care of, the odds are the rest of the mechanical bits were well taken care of as well. Some models are rarer then others, but generally there are a great deal of water coolers out there. Take your time, and find a great one.

Pre-sale inspection. Unless you're a Porsche mechanic, you should invest the $75-100 to take your prospective car to one and have them look at it. This will give you an excellent idea of what sort of costs you will be incurring over the next year or so, or even if the car is worth buying at all.

5.2.1 What are the areas to look for?
There are several common failure points on the 924/944/968's. To begin with visually inspect the car for obvious signs of accident damage. Accidents can lead to costly repairs on items that are not immediately visible. Check to make sure that all body panels line up correctly and that there is a consistent spacing between all panels. Look for signs of overspray on the underside of the car or in the engine bay. Look for differing texture ("orange peel") in the paint surface.

These cars also have many problems with leaks in the hatch area, around the sunroof, and in the passenger footwell. Check around for water stains and rusting of metal parts.

Drive the car, and pay attention to how the engine idles, the amount of engine vibration present, and the amount of backlash present in the drivetrain in manual cars. These problems will be explained in detail in section 5.6.

5.3 How do I tell if the 944 I'm looking at is early or late 1985?
The 944 underwent a fairly major change in the middle of model year 1985 (MY85). You will frequently see cars made later in the year referred to as "eight-five and a half" models. Cars made through the first half of 1985 have the 924 instrument cluster. It's more boxy/squarish than the later design. The suspension arms on the early 944's were made of steel with replaceable ball joints. Later 944's and all 968's use aluminum arms with non-removable ball joints.

To identify the vehicle definitely, you can examine its VIN number. Early 1985 944's had a VIN series beginning with 94FN47, later cars began with 94FN45. Tthe VIN tag is located on the driver's side windshield pillar, looking down from outside the car.

5.4 How do I tell if the 924 I'm looking at is a 924 or a 924S?
If the car rolled out in ?82 or before (in Europe, that would be ?85 or before), it is certainly a 924. If it is a ?86 or ?87 car, it is certainly a 924S. The 10th digit of the VIN would tell of the year.

If it is a 924 you are considering, remember that the 924 and the 924S are very different cars underneath the skin. The 924 has a 2.0 liter engine, and is relatively inexpensive to maintain. On the other hand, the 924S came with the same 2.5 liter engine and drivetrain as the early 944, and consequently shares the same maintenance issues as an early 944 (or worries, if it is an ill-maintained specimen).

It may not be easy to tell a 924 from a 924S by a visual check, particularly since owners who are "creative" in changing the badges and decals on their cars are not unheard of.

5.5 What is a 951? Is this some Porsche I haven't heard of before?
No, it's simply the factory designation for the 944 Turbo.

5.6 What are common failure modes, and how are hard/expensive are they to fix?
5.6.1 Timing Belt
For the 924S, 944, and 968 series cars, it's important to have both the cam timing and the balance shaft belts replaced and tensioned regularly. These models, as well as later 928 models, have what is know as an "interference engine." If the timing belt fails, pistons and valves will travel out of sequence with one another. The result of this is .that pistons and valves will collide, valves will be bent, and you are then in for a very expensive repair

Tensioning the timing belt requires an expensive special Porsche tension gauge, the P9201, that costs about $500. A few hardy owners use the more traditional "by hand" method generally without any adverse affects. However, the general consensus is "better safe than sorry" -- use the factory tensioning gauge.

1987 and later 944's have an automatic tensioning device built in that in theory allows you to perform this operation without the special gauge. However, the automatic tensioner has been known to produce incorrect settings. Moreover, Porsche found that the 944S2 suffered from cam timing belt slap when tensioned with only the automatic tensioner. The bottom line is that the P9201 tool should still be used on the 87 and later cars with the automatic tensioner

The belts should be changed at least every 45K. If a car your are considering for purchase does not have service records indicating that this has been done, allow for an extra $300-$500 to have the belts changed.

The timing belt in a 924 is reported to be far less finicky than the 944 or 924S. Since the 2.0 engine does not have an interference design where the pistons and valves share space, a failure of the timing belt does not produce the kind of expensive collataral damage as in the case of the 944 or the 924S, viz. a piston hitting the open valves, necessitating an expensive engine rebuild. While the maintenance interval for the 924 timing belt is the same, the expensive tensioning tool is not needed.

5.6.2 Motor Mounts
If you have excessive vibration at idle, and the vibration disappears around 1200 RPM, one or more of your motor mounts may be bad. The mounts have been through several designs. When updating your mounts, make sure you're getting the newest version (p/n 951.375.042.04) from the 944 Turbo. The bolt lengths have also changed with the updated part, so check for updated hardware.

The right (exhaust side) mount takes the most punishment and usually goes first.

The repair is within the reach of the accomplished backyard mechanic, but requires some tools, skills and patience. Motor mounts may "look" OK and still be bad. The normal advice is to look for fluid leakage. However, usually the fluid has leaked and evaporated long ago. A better way to check the mounts is to fashion a [ shaped piece of stiff wire so that the points of the wire are 60 mm apart. Use this gauge to measure the distance between the top and bottom surfaces of the mounts. If it is less then the 60 mm, replace them. If you have an older 944 and it's vibrating, replacing the mounts will make you feel like you have a whole different car. Europroducts is the one of the cheapest sources of mounts at $110/each. Their number is 800-962-0911.

5.6.3 Water Pump
If you notice any noise or leaking from your water pump it is probably bad and should be replaced right away. If the pump fails entirely the fluid may leak on your belts and they will need to be replaced as well, or if the pump seizes it will destroy the timing belt as well - which could lead to very expensive valve damage.

In the 924S, 944, and 968 series cars, the water pump replacement is particularly unpleasant because it requires pulling the timing and balance belts to get to it. You may want to consider replacing the belts at the same time. Changing the thermostat at this time is also a good idea as it's very difficult to get to otherwise. The water pump has been updated several times. The current new factory part number is 951.106.021.10, the factory exchange water pump is 951.106.921.X ($100.00 core charge). If you update to the latest pump, you will also need the updated thermostat (p/n 944.234.160.00), otherwise you can use the old style thermostat (p/n 944.106.129.05). The rebuilt pumps may not be the bargain they appear to be, and some mechanics will refuse to even install a rebuilt pump because they've had so many fail. (See section 7.3 for information on removing the thermostat snap ring.)

Chilton's 1995 labor guide states the following for changing a water pump:

8.1 hrs. for 924S/944
8.7 hrs. for 951/944S2
6.5 hrs. for a 968
The 924 water pump is less expensive than its 944/924S/968 counterpart. (p/n 060 121 011, $87 at Euroselect). And again, it makes no sense at all to use a rebuilt unit.

When refilling the coolant/anti-freeze after replacement of the water pump, particular care needs to be taken to bleed the coolant system according to the procedure in the owners manual, or section 7.2. Use a phosphate-free anti-freeze that is compatible with aluminium engines. "Zerex-Extreme 450 phosphate-free" has been recommended by Porsche, as has the VW/AutoBahn anti-freeze.

5.6.4 Oil cooler seal leak
In the 924S, 944, and 968 series cars, the seals in the oil cooler will sometimes shrink due to age, changing oil types, etc. In 1987, Porsche redesigned the seal causing many failures. The production was not corrected until 1991. All models between 1987 and 1991 are extremely at risk for this failure, if they haven't been updated to the latest part keep a very close eye on your coolant and oil. When the seal fails, it allows oil to enter your cooling system, and coolant into your oil. If you check your oil and notice a chocolatey brown froth on your dip stick, or if you notice brown residue in your coolant over-flow tank, you should take it to the shop immediately and have the seals replaced, the radiator and coolant passages will need to be cleaned with a degreaser and the oil changed. It's also highly recommended that the lower-end bearings be replaced due to the accelerated wear caused by water in the oil.

The very early models (until 84) also had problems with the oil cooler seals failing. Replacement is easily accomplished, and the updated seal kit will cost around $30-$40.

The 924 does not have an oil/water heat exchanger.

5.6.5 Power Steering Fluid Reservoir Leaks
The clamps that hold the hoses onto the reservoir don't seem to do their job very well. Replacing or tightening the clamps tends to solve this problem. You may also need to replace the small flexible piece of hose (and clamps) that allows the power steering fluid return hose to go around the engine block and underneath the oil filter. The easiest way to check for a leak here is to raise the headlights so you can look down inside the nose of the car. The main reason for catching these problems early is that if power steering fluid leaks down onto your suspension arms it may rot out your ball joints. As of 1985.5 they can't be replaced individually, and the entire arm ($$$) must be replaced.

There is now an updated version of the fluid line that goes from the reservoir to the pump. the new version does not go around the oil filter & attach to the water pump, but rather straight from the reservoir to the pump. As mentioned before, fix this problem as soon as you notice it because it can lead to costly ball joint & steering rack repairs.

5.6.6 Hood and hatch shocks worn out
Harmless, but inconvenient. They can be replaced easily, they cost between $12-20 depending on where you buy.

5.6.7 Hatch electrical release non-functional
944 and 968 series cars have an electrical release for their rear hatch. The nylon piece that holds the cable sometimes breaks. This component is fairly easy to replace. The carpet can also interfere with the rotating shaft. If the hatch is not aligned properly the hatch catches will bind, not allowing the motor and associated cable to do it's job.

On all cars, the hatch retaining pins can also become out of alignment, causing the release not to function. The pins are adjustable, but if they are lengthened too much they can allow the hatch to leak.

5.6.8 Power window motor mechanisms
If the channels become dirty or warped, the power window motors may become damaged and eventually burn out. If the motor sounds like it is straining, or makes grinding/lugging noises it will more than likely need to be replaced in the near future. Cleaning the channels and making sure the windows are properly aligned will prevent damage.

5.6.9 Idle Stabilizer
Gets gunked up and causes rough idle. Some list members have disassembled the idle stabilizer and successfully cleaned them up. On the 944 turbo and 944S the intake manifold must be removed to access the stabilizer(this can be expensive labor wise). An updated part is available which is supposed to minimize the problem. It's manufactured by Bosch and replacement cost is approximately $175.00.

5.6.10 Fuel Injectors dirty
Porsche Cars North America (PCNA) recommends that you use a product containing the Chevron Techron additive to keep injectors clean and fully functional. If you notice hard starting, rough idle, or weak acceleration you may want to try running a bottle of this additive to your next fill up of gas.

5.6.11 Front wheel shimmy
A shimmy at around 70 mph on early 944's appears to be a very common problem. No one is sure why it exists, but it may have something to do with the front suspension's VW rabbit origins. A wheel-on-the-car balance job frequently helps minimize the problem.

5.6.12 Cruise Control Problems
Symptoms such as: doesn't set speed, speed fluctuates, speed increases, etc. are generally caused by a bad cruise controller. The control box is above the hood release catch inside the car. It looks like a long, thin, rectangular metal box. Apparently one or more components can go bad inside, which leads to all kinds of intermittent problems. This is not the only thing that can go wrong with the cruise control system, but is very common. If possible, have your mechanic or a friend with the same car swap boxes and see if it fixes your problem.

(Note: if anyone has information on repairing CC boxes, please let me know so I can add it to the FAQ.)

5.6.13 Worn/leaky heater valves caused damage to clutch
The heater valve has been moved to a different location (above the oil filter) in later models. The retrofit can be done by a novice mechanic. New hoses must be ordered. The changeover occurred in approximately 1988/89.

5.6.14 Coolant tank expanding
Age and high temperature combine to make the coolant overflow tank swell and eventually fail. Replacing it before it fails entirely would be a very good idea. They run around $120 new.

5.6.15 Turbo Coolant Pump
This pump is supposed to run for 30 seconds after the car is shut off, circulating water through the turbocharger. You can hear it running if it is operating properly. The pump is assembled in two sections, with age and heat the motor shaft binds and stops working. The hoses at the bottom of the pump create stress and this can cause a misalignment of the motor shaft. Readjusting the pump housing in the pump clamp may unbind the pump. A replacement unit runs about $175.00. (p/n 951 606 130 01)

5.6.16 Cracks in old style Turbo exhaust manifolds (non-accordion type)
Under warranty PCNA replaced the non-bellowed type headers when they cracked, with the improved accordion style. The factory changeover occurred sometime in 1987. If you have an 86 with cracked bellowed-type headers, a lot of complaining may get them replaced under the "hidden" warranty even if it's beyond the normal warranty mileage. Otherwise, replacement would cost roughly $1200.00.

5.6.17 Center console cassette holder hinge broken
A very bad design and a very common failure. The official Porsche component is used to be very expensive. Recently PCNA made available the hinge-only part (944 552 553 01 01C) which is much cheaper (approximately $13). Steel after market replacements are also available.

5.6.18 Cracked or Broken Windshields
The 944 windshield is particularly expensive, the list price is over $2000! If you don't live in a major city with many glass places, you may want to mail order the glass and have one of the local glass people install it:

Prices as of 2/95:

1977-1984 $256.00
1985-1991 $445.00 with antenna
1990-1993 $365.00 convertible and with antenna

Discounts @ Glass Suppliers, 1-800-421-1414

5.6.19 Cracked Dashboards
A very common cosmetic annoyance. Gary Cook (gary.cook@sun.com) researched various places that rebuild dashes. The price ranges were from $300-450.

Dash Specialists
1910 Redbud Lane
Medford, OR 97504
(503) 776-0040

The Newdash Group
4747 E. Elliot St. Suite 29
Phoenix, AZ 85044
(800) 283-2744
(602) 893-3030

Just Dashes, Inc
5941 Lemona Ave.
Van Nuys, CA 91411
(800) 247-DASH
(818) 780-8005
(818) 780-9014 (FAX)

The moulded ABS "dash covers" available from various sources are generally not well liked.

5.6.20 Leaks in the passenger cabin
These cars are prone to leaks into the passenger cabin that usually originate from one of three areas: the sunroof, the hatch, and the passenger side footwell.

Leaks from the sunroof are usually caused by stopped up drain hoses. These hoses allow the water that accumulates in the drain canal around the sunroof to run out. Check to make sure that there is no debris in the tubes that will stop them up.

The hatch can also leak. Leaks here are usually caused by a worn out hatch seal, stopped up spoiler drains, or a combination of the two. A new hatch seal costs around $60. The spoiler drains are the small rectangular holes on each corner of the spoiler. These can become clogged up, allowing water to back up & spill over the hatch seal. Replacement of the hatch seal and cleaning the drains will usually solve these leaks.

The final problem area of the 924/944 with leaking is the passenger footwell. The can problem occur when the battery leaks acid onto the battery tray (located directly above the passenger footwell in the engine compartment) and rusts it out. Eventually, the tray rusts completely through & allows water to enter the passenger cabin. The best way to repair this problem is to have a new piece of metal welded into place in the battery tray; however, this is expensive (around $500). Some have fiberglassed the tray with some success, but usually the leak will return eventually. If this has not already occurred to you, use a battery mat to absorb the battery acid & prevent the rusting. This does not apply to the newer models with the battery located in the rear.

This problems can also occur when the accumulation of dry leaves and other debris near the battery compartment and the corresponding part on the driver side clogs up drain holes, leading to accumulation of water, which will then find its way into the driver/passenger side footwells. Clearing this debris once or twice a year is easy and effective.

5.6.21 Clutch
The 944 originally had a problem with the rubber centered clutch fracturing, allowing the center to move about freely & inducing a lot of freeplay to the drivetrain. If you notice a substantial amount of backlash when engaging or releasing the clutch, chances are that the clutch needs to be replaced. This repair will run around $1200 at a shop, or you can purchase the required parts for around $550. There are now updated versions of the clutch disc for these rubber-centered versions consisting of a spring center.

5.7 What are the available option codes?

Option codes are located on a sticker in the spare wheel compartment. The following aren't necessarily all 924/944/968 option codes, but most of 'em should be in here. Thanks to Mike Tietel for his huge list!

C02 Catalytic Converter
C03  
C77  
R01 Touring Package (Not Available w/ Airbags)
R74 Touring Package
009 Sporto-matic transmission  
018 Leather STR Wheel/Raised Hub 380MM(Not Available w/ Airbags)
020 Speedometer with 2 scales KPH/MPH
024 Version for Greece
026 Activated charcoal canister
027 Version for California
030 Club Sport Package
031 Sport shock absorbers
034 Version for Italy
036 Bumpers with impact absorbers
058 Bumpers with impact absorbers
061 Version for Great Britain
062 Mud flap (version for Sweden)
070 Tonneau cover - Cabriolet
103 Adjustment of shock absorber strut
113 Version for Canada
119 Version for Spain
124 Yellow light (version for France)
126 Stickers in French
130 Labeling in English
139 Heated Seat Left
152 Engine noise reduction
153 Engine parts belonging to a stipulated assembly for type 951
154 Control unit for improved emissions
157 Oxygen sensor and catalyst
158 Radio "Reno"
160 Radio "Charleston"
164 Tires 215/60 VR15
176 Oil cooler with fan
185 Automatic 2 point rear seat belts
186 Manual 2 point rear seat belts
187 Asymmetric head lights
190 Increased side door strength
193 Version for Japan
195 Prepared for cellular telephone
197 Higher amperage battery
215 Version for Saudi Arabia
218 License brackets front and rear
219 Differential
220 Limited Slip Differential
221 Porsche-locking differential
225 Version for Belgium
240 Version for countries with inferior fuel
241 Shorter shifting travel
243 Shorter gear shift lever
249 Automatic transmission
255 Fuel consumption indicator
258 Heating for outside mirror
261 Passenger side mirror - electric - plain
262 Outside mirror for passenger side, plain, manual
277 Version for Switzerland
286 High intensity windscreen washer
288 Headlight Washers
298 Prepared for unleaded fuel, manual transmission
302 Type designated on rear end
308 Pneumatic spring for engine hood
323 Sticker, without ESE-Regulations
325 Version for South Africa
330  
331 AM/FM Cassette w/2 door speakers
335 Automatic 3 point rear seat belts
340 Heated Seat Right
341 Central Locking System
346 Standard color rims (silver)
347 Platinum anodized wheels
348 Forged wheels - Grand Prix White
351 Porsche-car radio, CR stereo, type DE
360 Mud Guards
375 Clutch lining without asbestos
377 Combination seat, left, adjustable
378 Combination seat, right, adjustable
379 Series seat, left electrical vertical adjustment
380 Series seat, right electrical vertical adjustment
381 Series seat, left
382 Series seat, right
383 Sport Seat Left w/Elec. Height. Adj.
387 Sport Seat Right w/Elec. Height. Adj.
389 Porsche-car radio, CR stereo, type US
391 Stone guard foil, added separately
393 Forged Alloy Wheels-8/9x16 (944/944S) (944 Turbo)
394 Pressure Cast Magnesium Rims (944/944S) (944 Turbo)
395 16" Forged Alloy Wheels (944/944S) (944 Turbo)
396 Disk wheel, telephone styling 8Jx15 rear
398 Outside Electric Mirror, Left
399 A/C without front condenser
400 Pressure cast wheels
401 Light metal wheels
402 50 year anniversary car 1982
403 Pressure cast 17" wheels
404* Stabilizer Bars Front & Rear
405 Level control system
406 50 year anniversary car 1982
406 Front wheel housing protection 1983-1986
407 18-inch polished wheels
409 Sport seats left and right leather
410 Sport seats left and right leatherette/cloth
411 License bracket, front
412 External oil cooler
414 External Transmission Oil Cooler (Turbo)
415 Wider rear track
418 Body Side Molding
419 Rear luggage compartment instead of rear seats
422 Porsche-car radio, CR stereo, type RW
423 Cassette container and coin box
424 Automatic heating control
425 Rear Window Wiper
426 Special model World Champion 1976 1978
429 Fog headlamp, white
429 Special model "Sebring"
431 Leather Steering Wheel 363MM (Not Available w/Airbags)
432 Sports steering wheel, leather 363mm (4 spokes)
437 Full Power Seat Left
438 Full Power Seat Right
439 Electric Cabriolet top
439 Special model "Weissach" 1980
440 Manual antenna, 4 speakers
441 Fader, antenna booster, 4 speakers
441 Radio speakers and antenna amplifier
442 Prepared for radio without antenna
443 Tinted front and side glass, heated windshield
444 Cabriolet
446 Parts for type "Targa" belonging to stipulated assembly
447 Emergency wheel - with collapsible tire
450 Light metal wheels
451 Prepared for radio for sport group
454 Automatic Speed Control
455 Wheel locks
458*  16" Cast Alloy Wheels
461 Electric antenna, 4 speakers
462 Special model "Weissach" 1982
462 Sekuriflex windshield
463 Clear windshield
463 Lateral glasses tinted, (version for Australia)
464 Without compressor and tire pressure gauge
465 Fastening parts for transportation (version for overseas)
467 Drivers side mirror, convex
468 Graduated tint windshield, green side glass
469 Black headliner
470 Without spoilers, in conjunction with turbo look
471 Sport group 1
471 Integrated rear spoiler
472*  Rear Apron
473 With spoilers
474*  Sport Shock Absorbers
475 Brake pads without asbestos
475 License plate fastening (version for Austria, Finland, Australia)
476 Brake pad with abrasive pad
479 Version for Australia
481 5 speed manual transmission
482 Engine compartment light
483 Right hand drive
484 Symbols for controls
485 Forged wheels ? gold metallic
487 Connection for fog headlamp with parking light
488 Stickers in German
489 Symbols and insignia in German
490 Sound Package
491 Turbo look
492 H4 headlights for left hand traffic
494 Amplifier System
494 2 speakers on back shelf
496 Black trim ? painted headlight rims
498 Delete Model Designation-Rear
499 Version for West Germany
503 Cabrio variant (Speedster)
505 Slant nose
513 Lumbar Support-Right Seat
525 Alarm with continuous sound
526 Door Panels Covered w/Cloth
528 Passenger side mirror convex
529 Outside mirror ? passenger side, convex, manual
533 Alarm System
537 Left seat with positrol and lumbar
538 Right seat with positrol and lumbar
548 Fuel filler neck, unleaded fuel with flap
553 Version for USA
559 Air conditioner
560 Detachable roof
562* Airbag- Driver's Side
563*  Airbag- Passenger's Side
565 Safety steering wheel - leather
566 Rectangular front fog lights
567 Windshield green graduated tint
568 Tinted windshield and side glass
570 High output air conditioner
572 Heating
573 Air Conditioning
576 Without rear fog light
586 Lumbar Support-Left Seat
592 Brake fluid warning system
593 Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)
595 Rear spoiler painted to match body
596 Spoiler painted matte black
597 Heavy duty battery and starter
598 Insignia "16 ventiler"
602 Third brake light "High mount"
605 Vertical headlight adjustment
607 More numerous cables for dashboard
621 Differing parts for engine 924S
622 Differing parts for cars with 2 V-Engine
637 Performance Handling Package (944/944S) (944 Turbo)
642 Additive for cooling water
650 Electric Sunroof
651 Electric Windows
657 Power steering
659 Onboard computer
666 Without lacquer preservation and chrome preservation
673 Prepared for lead sealed odometer
675 Instrument cluster - technical lighting
684 1 piece rear seat
685 Divided rear seat
686 Radio "Ludwigsburg" SQM with arimat
691 CD-Player "CD-1" with Radio
692 Remote CD changer (6-disc)
701 Car-version Slant Nose
719 Special reconstruction
756 Special Model 924S USA 1988
757 Special model 944 1988
758 Special model 944 Turbo 1988
780 Remove safety certificate
900 Tourist delivery
912 Vehicle without identification plate
925 High altitude areas (version for US)
930 Seat cover rear LLL
931 Seat cover rear KKK
932 Seat cover rear SKK
933 Seat cover rear SLL
934 Seat cover rear SSK
935 Seat cover rear RLL
945 Seat cover front SKK
946 Partial Leather Seats Front
947 Seat cover front: cloth/leather/leatherette
Seat cover rear: cloth/leather/leatherette
948 Seat cover front SLL
974 Luggage boot cover
975 Velour carpet in luggage compartment
980 Seat cover ? Raff ? leather
981 Leather Interior (except seats)
983 Leather Seats-Front and Rear
985 Parts silver colored
986 Partial leather lining
989 Left and right sport seats - cloth
990 All Cloth Seats

NOTE: Options 562 and 563 must be ordered together.
Option 637 must be ordered with option 030.

* Standard Equipment 944 Turbo.

[BMWDave]

Thanks a lot, Tom!  I'll check out those pages :)

[Tom]

No prob, Bob :)  

[R33 GT-R]

lol

[giant_mtb]

Umm...I thought his name was Dave.  :blink:  

[BMWDave]

Umm...I thought his name was Dave.  :blink:

I'm thinking the same thing  

[R33 GT-R]

I thought Dave was Bob for a minute too.

[BMWDave]

Here comes BMWBob!!

[giant_mtb]

Wait...who's Bob?  We have a Bob here?!  :blink:  :o  

[BMWDave]

Wait...who's Bob?  We have a Bob here?!  :blink:  :o

Oh my god...

Need I explain?

[they called me bob, so I said, here comes BMWBob]

[R33 GT-R]

So Bob, how's it going?

[R33 GT-R]

We should all have a alias.          

[NomisR]

So who's tom then?

[giant_mtb]

So who's tom then?

Tom's Tom. ^_^

[giant_mtb]

Wait...who's Bob?  We have a Bob here?!  :blink:  :o

Oh my god...

Need I explain?

[they called me bob, so I said, here comes BMWBob]

Ohhh...see I get confused really easily...and I'm gullible...  <_<      :ph34r:  

[giant_mtb]

We should all have a alias.        

I am...Little Weasel... ^_^

[Tom]

No ones heard the saying "no prob, bob"? :blink:  

I think I figured out that BMWdave's name is Dave  

[FlatBlackCaddy]

Well i owned a 83 944 Non turbo for a couple years. I'll give you a quick rundown of some common problems i ran into.

Most aren't really problem spots but problems due to age.

-Timing belt, make sure you keep up on that one.
-clutch, nothing wrong with it, other than they are a bitch to change
-Electrical problems, window switches, a/c,etc
-brittle hoses, underhood area, if they are 15+ years old and original odds are they are junk.
-leaking roof/seals. Once again a age factor, but these seem to have been worse than any other 20+ year old car i've owned(all in similar shape/similar mileage).

It was a great car, loved the looks and it handled great.  

[BMWDave]

Well i owned a 83 944 Non turbo for a couple years. I'll give you a quick rundown of some common problems i ran into.

Most aren't really problem spots but problems due to age.

-Timing belt, make sure you keep up on that one.
-clutch, nothing wrong with it, other than they are a bitch to change
-Electrical problems, window switches, a/c,etc
-brittle hoses, underhood area, if they are 15+ years old and original odds are they are junk.
-leaking roof/seals. Once again a age factor, but these seem to have been worse than any other 20+ year old car i've owned(all in similar shape/similar mileage).

It was a great car, loved the looks and it handled great.

Thanks for the information

Did you have problems with any leaking in the interior, such as by the hatch, or by the foot wells?

And the timing belt is the most quintessential factor i've heard about the 944...if you dont replace them every 40K miles it bends in the valves and you need to rebuild the whole engine.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

Well i owned a 83 944 Non turbo for a couple years. I'll give you a quick rundown of some common problems i ran into.

Most aren't really problem spots but problems due to age.

-Timing belt, make sure you keep up on that one.
-clutch, nothing wrong with it, other than they are a bitch to change
-Electrical problems, window switches, a/c,etc
-brittle hoses, underhood area, if they are 15+ years old and original odds are they are junk.
-leaking roof/seals. Once again a age factor, but these seem to have been worse than any other 20+ year old car i've owned(all in similar shape/similar mileage).

It was a great car, loved the looks and it handled great.

Thanks for the information

Did you have problems with any leaking in the interior, such as by the hatch, or by the foot wells?

And the timing belt is the most quintessential factor i've heard about the 944...if you dont replace them every 40K miles it bends in the valves and you need to rebuild the whole engine.

The most problems i had with it were leaking water into the interior and electrical problems(i rebuilt the window switches 3 times before i got them to work right).

Anyway it leaked in from the passenger door(top of the door) and oddly it leaked through the firewall(the battery "bay" is above the passenger footwell, it has a draining system but when they get clogged it will pool water, which leads to a leak through the firewall onto the passenger floor).

I tried to fix the firewall leak dozens of times, but it always seemed to leak water in(i basically resealed the whole firewall, and it still leaked).

Also the interior materials didn't take well to extreme sun, i've seen CA cars that have cracked dashes, brittle seats(the fabric gets cooked and tears apart like paper).

Edit: my timing belt blew, i had to rebuild it and replace a clutch. Its not that hard to work on, but its harder than most engines/transmissions i've dealt with.

[footoflead]

We should all have a alias.        

Yes we should ....Bryan your in charge of that...

Dave=Bob. one down many to go

[BMWDave]

Well i owned a 83 944 Non turbo for a couple years. I'll give you a quick rundown of some common problems i ran into.

Most aren't really problem spots but problems due to age.

-Timing belt, make sure you keep up on that one.
-clutch, nothing wrong with it, other than they are a bitch to change
-Electrical problems, window switches, a/c,etc
-brittle hoses, underhood area, if they are 15+ years old and original odds are they are junk.
-leaking roof/seals. Once again a age factor, but these seem to have been worse than any other 20+ year old car i've owned(all in similar shape/similar mileage).

It was a great car, loved the looks and it handled great.

Thanks for the information

Did you have problems with any leaking in the interior, such as by the hatch, or by the foot wells?

And the timing belt is the most quintessential factor i've heard about the 944...if you dont replace them every 40K miles it bends in the valves and you need to rebuild the whole engine.

The most problems i had with it were leaking water into the interior and electrical problems(i rebuilt the window switches 3 times before i got them to work right).

Anyway it leaked in from the passenger door(top of the door) and oddly it leaked through the firewall(the battery "bay" is above the passenger footwell, it has a draining system but when they get clogged it will pool water, which leads to a leak through the firewall onto the passenger floor).

I tried to fix the firewall leak dozens of times, but it always seemed to leak water in(i basically resealed the whole firewall, and it still leaked).

Also the interior materials didn't take well to extreme sun, i've seen CA cars that have cracked dashes, brittle seats(the fabric gets cooked and tears apart like paper).

I think the problem you had was the acid from the battery burned the steel plate, and thus water just leaked through.  Did you try replacing the metal plate under the battery?

[FlatBlackCaddy]

The metal plate under the battery was the firewall, if you were standing there looking at it you would see the problem.

[BMWDave]

The metal plate under the battery was the firewall, if you were standing there looking at it you would see the problem.

I see, I wasnt sure what you meant by firewall.  

About how much did you spend on repairs and all?

[FlatBlackCaddy]

actually parts weren't too bad(oddly the local Porsche dealer had the best price on OEM parts).

I rebuilt the motor(timing belt failure) and put a clutch in it. I probobly only had about 2K into it(it needed alot more). But i just fixed it up so that it was driveable, i drove it for a couple summers. But even after putting a new belt in and only putting a max of 5-8K on it i really didn't trust the timing belt, and i was reluctant to get on it too much at the end of my ownership period. Then i bought a couple other cars and decided to sell it( i would have kept it but it needed alot of work and i figured i might pick up a 944 turbo in the future).  

[BMWDave]

actually parts weren't too bad(oddly the local Porsche dealer had the best price on OEM parts).

I rebuilt the motor(timing belt failure) and put a clutch in it. I probobly only had about 2K into it(it needed alot more). But i just fixed it up so that it was driveable, i drove it for a couple summers. But even after putting a new belt in and only putting a max of 5-8K on it i really didn't trust the timing belt, and i was reluctant to get on it too much at the end of my ownership period. Then i bought a couple other cars and decided to sell it( i would have kept it but it needed alot of work and i figured i might pick up a 944 turbo in the future).

I see.  Thanks for the information, and I will ask you if I need more help  :)