El Camino project car

Started by hotrodalex, October 04, 2008, 12:49:56 PM

hotrodalex

Oh, and the speedometer didn't give me any issues while in Vegas. So the cable must shrink more than the hole when it's cold.

Eye of the Tiger

Yeah, blame it on shrinkage.
2008 TUNDRA (Truck Ultra-wideband Never-say-die Daddy Rottweiler Awesome)

hotrodalex

Plus a worn out thingamabob.

I'm not gonna tear apart the dash, so it'll just have to behave or I'll go back to not having a speedometer.

Soup DeVille

Quote from: hotrodalex on November 10, 2014, 03:11:26 PM
Oh, and the speedometer didn't give me any issues while in Vegas. So the cable must shrink more than the hole when it's cold.

That sounds vaguely familiar, but I can't quite place from where.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

hotrodalex

lol

Changed the oil today and noticed a dent on the driver's side header. Stupid speed bumps around here are deadly. A good argument for switching to the ceramic coated mid-length headers that I found a deal on.

GoCougs

Meh, have had a few cars with headers. It's never been worth it. If I ever own a classic/muscle car again, it'll never have headers. If headers were built with the fit and robustness of a factory manifold, they'd, uh, pretty much look like a factory manifold.

hotrodalex

I've never had a real trouble with them, and they do provide an advantage. (even moreso when you start upgrading cams and heads and such)

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1310-headers-dyno-test/

Ceramic coating seems to be a huge plus as well.

GoCougs

Well, now you've had trouble knocking one on a speed bump ;). They also tend to rust, warp, blow out gaskets and back out their bolts, and my biggest header pet peeve, add unpleasant under hood noise. For a street motor, the real advantage is sounds and looks, often times at the expense of real-world performance. For example, on a what is basically a stock motor in your car IIRC, put manifolds back on your car and you'll see an immediate improvement in part throttle and lower RPM performance, and equal if not better overall performance.

So let's look at the test you posted. From the smallest (which are pretty much a stone's throw from factory manifolds) to the largest the average power gain was only ~20 hp on a ~550 - 600 hp motor (5% gain) and note the smallest headers (er, proxy factory manifolds) make the most power/torque from ~3,600 - ~4,600 rpm. Also note that some of those larger headers don't look like they'd fit in the average street-driven car. Note this is a big block Chevy 427 that is fairly wild - roller cam, huge carb, single plane intake, ~7,000 rpm red line - so on a more average street motor 5% is maybe 10 hp, and with that you have all the headaches I've mentioned.


FoMoJo

Quote from: hotrodalex on November 12, 2014, 11:03:23 PM
lol

Changed the oil today and noticed a dent on the driver's side header. Stupid speed bumps around here are deadly. A good argument for switching to the ceramic coated mid-length headers that I found a deal on.
How much clearance do you have?  You're supposed to slow down when you go over them.  That way you might not rebound so much right onto your headers.
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

hotrodalex

Quote from: FoMoJo on November 16, 2014, 06:16:54 AM
How much clearance do you have?  You're supposed to slow down when you go over them.  That way you might not rebound so much right onto your headers.

~5 inches, maybe? I've never measured. Enough for any reasonable bump. Not enough for the silly curbs they try to pass off as speed bumps at some locations in Utah. For example, when I had the BMW out here the same speed bumps would scrape the side skirts under the rear doors. Both cars just crawling over them.

Eye of the Tiger

I have never regretted installing headers on any of my street driven vehicles. Long tube and ceramic coated is the way to go. The real nemesis here is the evil, header-destroyng, government speed bump. I can't believe coogs didn't point that out.
2008 TUNDRA (Truck Ultra-wideband Never-say-die Daddy Rottweiler Awesome)

hotrodalex


Eye of the Tiger

2008 TUNDRA (Truck Ultra-wideband Never-say-die Daddy Rottweiler Awesome)

FoMoJo

"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

hotrodalex

TrueTrac is probably the best option but apparently they don't make them to fit on a GM 8.2 axle.

FoMoJo

Quote from: hotrodalex on November 19, 2014, 09:16:12 PM
TrueTrac is probably the best option but apparently they don't make them to fit on a GM 8.2 axle.
Get a Ford 9"...be all set to drop in a big block then.
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

hotrodalex

Except for the transmission and front suspension.

FoMoJo

Quote from: hotrodalex on November 20, 2014, 10:00:59 AM
Except for the transmission and front suspension.
All in good time.  You have to start somewhere.
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

hotrodalex

I'll be plenty happy with new heads and cam. Plenty of power and lighter.

FoMoJo

What kind of heads were you thinking of?
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

hotrodalex

Edelbrock Performer or equivalent. Just looking to bump up the compression, get slightly more flow, and take some weight off the front end.

hotrodalex

Current cam:
.383''/.401'' Lift, 194°/202° Duration @ .050'', and 112° lobe separation

New cam sitting in garage (Performer Plus):
.420"/.442" Lift, 204°/214° Duration @ .050", and 112° lobe separation

Performer Heads:
Combustion chamber volume: 64cc
Intake runner volume: 185cc
Exhaust runner volume: 65cc
Intake valve diameter: 2.02"
Exhaust valve diameter: 1.60"
Valve stem diameter: 11/32"
Valve guides: Manganese Bronze
Deck thickness: 5/8"
Valve spring diameter: 1.46"
Valve spring maximum lift: .575"
Rocker stud: 3/8"
Guideplate: Hardened steel
Pushrod diameter: 5/16"
Valve angle: 23°
Exhaust port location: Stock
Spark plug fitment: 14mm x .750 reach, tapered seat

Eye of the Tiger

I wonder if they make an easy flathead conversion.
2008 TUNDRA (Truck Ultra-wideband Never-say-die Daddy Rottweiler Awesome)

hotrodalex

Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on November 20, 2014, 09:50:10 PM
I wonder if they make an easy flathead conversion.

That'll be good for a daily driver. I'll just install an extra water pump or two and put another radiator in the bed.

hotrodalex

These might be a decent, cheaper option.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Tek-102505-Assembled-S-B-Chevy-Aluminum-Head-Straight-Plug,25118.html

Intake flow numbers are a bit lower, but exhaust is better.

FoMoJo

Does the Gen 3 bolt pattern fit your block?  Never liked the looks of those siamese exhaust ports.
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." ~ Albert Einstein
"As the saying goes, when you mix science and politics, you get politics."

hotrodalex

I don't think so. I have a Gen I block.

hotrodalex

#1017
I have a 3.36 rear end at the moment. Should I get a higher numerical gear? Top gear is 1:1. I suppose eventually I could grab a 5 speed, but that won't happen until two summers from now at least. Would like to be able to cruise at ~75 while keeping revs under 3500 rpm. I think right now I can do 85 @ 3500 rpm.

Rupert

You're gonna blow your manifolds at that rpm.
Novarolla-Miata-Trooper-Jeep-Volvo-Trooper-Ranger-MGB-Explorer-944-Fiat-Alfa-XTerra

13 cars, 60 cylinders, 52 manual forward gears and 9 automatic, 2 FWD, 42 doors, 1988 average year of manufacture, 3 convertibles, 22 average mpg, and no wheel covers.
PRO TENACIA NULLA VIA EST INVIA

Cookie Monster

I wish my car would rev to 35k.
RWD > FWD
President of the "I survived the Volvo S80 Thread" Club
2007 Mazda MX-5 | 1999 Honda Nighthawk 750 | 1989 Volvo 240 | 1991 Toyota 4Runner | 2006 Honda CBR600F4i | 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 | 1999 Honda CBR600F4 | 2009 Yamaha WR250X | 1985 Mazda RX-7 | 2000 Yamaha YZ426F | 2006 Yamaha FZ1 | 2002 Honda CBR954RR | 1996 Subaru Outback | 2018 Subaru Crosstrek | 1986 Toyota MR2
Quote from: 68_427 on November 27, 2016, 07:43:14 AM
Or order from fortune auto and when lyft rider asks why your car feels bumpy you can show them the dyno curve
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