Used car buying checklist - your views

Started by Morris Minor, December 25, 2008, 11:04:47 AM

Morris Minor

Imagine you are either on a dealer lot, or meeting a private seller at McDonalds parking lot or somewhere. You need to evaluate the car for possible purchase - and you have 15 minutes. We'll assume the car has passed the preliminary Carfax checks.

What are your opinions & suggestions for improvements?

Tools required:
Old clothes. You will be lying on he ground
Gloves
Flashlight
Some white paper towels
small magnet
A check list
A list of questions for the owner

Outside:
Bodywork - look for the usual: dings dents & ripples.
Seams inside hood, doors etc. Look for signs of overspray, and overspray-covered rust.
Underside of the hood - factory stickers on there?
Fluid levels
Use your nose. Sniff the oil, coolant, & general engine area - it should not smell of gas
Look at the transmission fluid
Look at the oil fill area & the oil on the dipstick.
Look for leaks - especially underneath where it's more difficult to steam clean off any evidence.
Look at the brake pads
Look at the fuel filler area & the tank underneath.
Grab each wheel & rock it back & forth, look for play
Look at tire wear pattern
Get underneath

Inside:
Wear & tear on seats
Wear on steering wheel & gear shift
Fading on upholstery
Cracking & fading on dash & door trim
Pedal rubbers
Functionality of everything, from the radio to the A/C

Driving:
Steering play
Tracking - does it pull to one side or the other?
Braking - consistent? Signs of rotor warp or pulling to one side or the other?
Roll down the window & listen
Behavior when accelerating to highway speeds listen for engine knocks, valve train rattles, hesitancy.
Use your nose again - smell of gas? Fresh paint? Tobacco? Dogs?

The owner/dealer:
Would you have a drink with the guy?
Does he maintain eye contact when questioned?
Does he fidget when questioned?
Is his story commensurate with the age & condition of the car?
⏤  '10 G37 | '21 CX-5 GT Reserve  ⏤
''Simplicity is Complexity Resolved'' - Constantin Brâncuși

VTEC_Inside

One addition to the inside/driving segments, though not too likely to be an issue with newer digital odos:
Look at the odometer. Is it working correctly? Is the trip-meter (if equipped) also working correctly? Do the math, given the year of the car are the miles high/low/avg? Do they fit with the condition of the rest of the car?
Honda, The Heartbeat of Japan...
2018 Honda Accord Sport 2.0T 6MT 252hp 273lb/ft
2006 Acura CSX Touring 160hp 141lb/ft *Sons car now*
2004 Acura RSX Type S 6spd 200hp 142lb/ft
1989 Honda Accord Coupe LX 5spd 2bbl 98hp 109lb/ft *GONE*
Slushies are something to drink, not drive...

sportyaccordy

Sounds good, though I would also check suspension bushings, smell the exhaust for burning oil (they put synthetic in used cars to hide smoke), check silly stuff like headlights etc

Also find out about a warranty... I had a good dealer who sold me my Maxima; there was a CEL stemming from bad ingition coils & some brake issues... they fixed it all free of charge, and it would have been $500 or so in parts alone

Though really if I were only given 15 minutes to check a car out I prob. wouldn't buy it w/o excellent records, etc

the Teuton

I know this sounds silly, but make sure the horn works, as well as any extras.  If the car is advertised with AC, make sure it works like a charm.
2. 1995 Saturn SL2 5-speed, 126,500 miles. 5,000 miles in two and a half months. That works out to 24,000 miles per year if I can keep up the pace.

Quote from: CJ on April 06, 2010, 10:48:54 PM
I don't care about all that shit.  I'll be going to college to get an education at a cost to my parents.  I'm not going to fool around.
Quote from: MrH on January 14, 2011, 01:13:53 PM
She'll hate diesel passenger cars, all things Ford, and fiat currency.  They will masturbate to old interviews of Ayn Rand an youtube together.
You can take the troll out of the Subaru, but you can't take the Subaru out of the troll!

AutobahnSHO

Paper towels leave fiber/lint everywhere. Use a cheap roll of "shop towels"- usually blue, they're basically premium paper towels.

-Take the vehicle for a test drive. Slow speed, do some turns. High speed, feel for rattle, alignment, etc...
-Check ALL accessories. All windows. All door locks. Open the trunk/rear. Adjust the seats. Run the fan at all different speeds. Check that the radio works but then Turn It Off and listen to the car.
-Is the driver's seat worn excessively for the mileage??


If ANYTHING seems funky, walk away.
When I was shopping vans (Spring 2006) we got in one that the steering wheel shimmied back and forth about 2inches at 35mph, the check engine light came on, AND the heater never worked. 
-Took it back and the guy shady used car salesman claimed it was: low air in a tire, loose gas cap, and needed to warm up. (We drove it for a good 15min, it was Plenty Warm..)
----But we bought a different one from the guy, same price, but more options and it's been ok for us.
Will

Soup DeVille

Find one of those small magnets that look like a pen and are on an extendable, antenna-like pole (I actually think they are antenna, just used differently).

Use it to check for bondo repairs along the bottom rocker panels and wheel well areas. If there's bondo, it won't stick very well. Any small, weak magnet will work.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

ChrisV

I never buy anything at a premium price, so I don't usually care if small things are wrong with it. I usually do a bit of research on common problem areas for the type of car I'm buying (if I don't already know them), then check those particular areas (unless the seller has already factored them into the price, which is typical with the kinds of cars I'm looking at)

But usually it's just a quick glance because I'm looking at a car already priced like it needs work.

On the 7 series, I asked for pictures of the instrument cluster with the car running. No CEL, and no arrows on either side of the message center saying that there were problems reported. Bought it sight unseen, figuring that the price already reflected mileage, condition, and the possibility of needing a couple normal issues taken care of. And, like pretty much all cars I've bought over the years, it's been fine.
Like a fine Detroit wine, this vehicle has aged to budgetary perfection...

Rupert

I'm curious, Chris, what cars have you had that weren't fine/reliable?
Novarolla-Miata-Trooper-Jeep-Volvo-Trooper-Ranger-MGB-Explorer-944-Fiat-Alfa-XTerra

13 cars, 60 cylinders, 52 manual forward gears and 9 automatic, 2 FWD, 42 doors, 1988 average year of manufacture, 3 convertibles, 22 average mpg, and no wheel covers.
PRO TENACIA NULLA VIA EST INVIA

Soup DeVille

Quote from: Psilos on December 26, 2008, 07:14:52 PM
I'm curious, Chris, what cars have you had that weren't fine/reliable?

Great, now he's gonna talk about his Bradley GT again...
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

280Z Turbo

Quote from: Psilos on December 26, 2008, 07:14:52 PM
I'm curious, Chris, what cars have you had that weren't fine/reliable?

I don't know.

He's always bragging about how he drove a Datsun with no doors or something.

hotrodalex

Quote from: Soup DeVille on December 26, 2008, 03:29:13 PM
Find one of those small magnets that look like a pen and are on an extendable, antenna-like pole (I actually think they are antenna, just used differently).

Use it to check for bondo repairs along the bottom rocker panels and wheel well areas. If there's bondo, it won't stick very well. Any small, weak magnet will work.

I found bondo spots on my El Camino by doing that.  :( (luckily they aren't bad, I'll patch them when I prep for paint)

I've always made sure to do a panic stop when I test drive a car.

GoCougs

Whenever I buy a used car I tell the seller that I myself must be able to cold-start the car.

Caught a few with worn valve guides (tell-tale puff of blue smoke at start-up). You might also catch bearing, valve or lifter noise - noises that can go away after the engine warms up a bit.