Rupert's MGB Thread

[Raza]

I'll adopt the MG from you.

[Rupert]

OK.

That'll be $3000 in adoption fees.

[Rupert]

To the mechanic in the morning! Ha-HA!

[ChrisV]

So sad. I really like the chrome bumper MGBs. Too bad you haven't got it to work right.

Well, I'm probably going to be putting a japanese engine/trans in my MGB. The current engine has a holley/weber 2 bbl on it. Runs ok, but I want electronic ignition and fuel injection and a bit more power. I'm thinking start with a crashed Miata, use the engine, trans, and seats. Rear end would be cool, too, but a bit of work getting the rear subframe in. And then I'd have to match the front suspension/brakes.

[Rupert]

It worked pretty much right when I got it. Then I started fucking with it...

Actually, this is the first thing that caused it to not run, whatever it is. I bet it will be ready tomorrow, and we'll see what the deal is/was.

[Byteme]

It worked pretty much right when I got it. Then I started fucking with it...

Actually, this is the first thing that caused it to not run, whatever it is. I bet it will be ready tomorrow, and we'll see what the deal is/was.

So what's wrong with the car and what did you do to, or think you did to it, to cause the problem.  I went back and looked at the old posts but it would be easier if you could give a summary. 

BTW, properly set up SU's are extremely reliable.  Outside of the butterfly on the thropttle shaft, the basic carburator only has one moving part, the piston that drags the attached metering needle up and down in the jet.  If rebuilt properly, and then adjusted properly there is little to go wrong until a part fails and a rebuild is needed; typically it's the jet diaphram that ages and ruptures or the throttle shaft seals get worn and require replacement.

[Rupert]

Well, it's a long story, but the summary is:

I over-filled the dashpots, which should be no big deal. A day or so later, it started to miss a little. The miss got worse, so I cleaned the dashpot internals. Nothing changed, so I did a bunch of other quick diagnostic stuff. I didn't find anything, and it sat. Then I tried to start it, and it wouldn't. I took it to the mechanic yesterday, and he found that it was the points and condenser, which I had replaced 300 miles previous (and so didn't think to check). It sat for six damned months, and all it was was points and a condenser. 

The dizzy is in need of some help; either a rebuild, or Pertronix, or both. I am thinking of sending it off to Jeff Schlemmer's Advanced Auto, where he rebuilds and recurves to what all the MG guys say is a high standard. That's a bit of money, though, and I'm still not sure I want to keep the car...

But I can drive it now! (At least until this set of points and condenser goes...).

[S204STi]

Can you swing the pertronix?

[Rupert]

Oh yeah.

It's whether I want to bother to do it if I'm going to sell it, and then whether or not I want to have it rebuilt. I'll probably install the Pertronix and sell it. The carbs are in fine shape, so if I fix the dizzy, then it should be good to go for quite a while. I mean, the engine was just practically rebuilt...

[The Pirate]

Oh yeah.

It's whether I want to bother to do it if I'm going to sell it, and then whether or not I want to have it rebuilt. I'll probably install the Pertronix and sell it. The carbs are in fine shape, so if I fix the dizzy, then it should be good to go for quite a while. I mean, the engine was just practically rebuilt...

Is the Pertronix a ton of money?  Fix the car and drive it for a while, you may change your mind and decide to keep it.  I mean, like you said, the thing is pretty much ready to rock once that's done.

[Rupert]

Pertronix would be $100, which is pretty much worth it. A rebuild, including a recurve and Pertonix is about $250. I'll probably put it on craigslist this weekend at a higher-than-it's-worth price, and work my way down until someone bites (or not). I'll drive it until then, and decide later. I want back into a Miata, though, and I certainly can't deal with two little sports cars!

What do you guys think I should ask? $4500?

[Byteme]

Well, it's a long story, but the summary is:

I over-filled the dashpots, which should be no big deal. A day or so later, it started to miss a little. The miss got worse, so I cleaned the dashpot internals. Nothing changed, so I did a bunch of other quick diagnostic stuff. I didn't find anything, and it sat. Then I tried to start it, and it wouldn't. I took it to the mechanic yesterday, and he found that it was the points and condenser, which I had replaced 300 miles previous (and so didn't think to check). It sat for six damned months, and all it was was points and a condenser. 

The dizzy is in need of some help; either a rebuild, or Pertronix, or both. I am thinking of sending it off to Jeff Schlemmer's Advanced Auto, where he rebuilds and recurves to what all the MG guys say is a high standard. That's a bit of money, though, and I'm still not sure I want to keep the car...

But I can drive it now! (At least until this set of points and condenser goes...).

Yeah, overfilled dashpots won't do any harm.  I overfill mine probably every time I top them off. 

A lot of aftermarket points rotors and condensors are made in third world countries now and frankly are just crap.  Install quality parts and you are probably good to go.  I've never been a Petronix fan, there are frequent horror stories on the e-type lists about failures (but those could be related to poor installation, who really knows).   If the stock distributor doesn't have excessive play and the mechanical advance and vacuum advance (if it has one) are OK the stock Dizzy is likely good.

Once sorted out, these cars are pure fun for not much dough.  If it were me I'd keep it as a toy, but YMMV. 

Regardless, have fun with it while you have it.   

I'd subscribe to an MG list and solicit their opinion on prices. 

[Rupert]

It was another one those annoying automotive coincidences, like the time I (as a stupid teenager) put a K & N air filter in my econobox, and at that moment, the muffler died. 0_0

I'm going for Pertronix because it cares less about the condition of the dizzy. My mechanic was saying that there isn't any way to really adjust the points anymore, and the breaker plate(s?) are probably worn out. I know the whole thing is pointed about 15-20 degrees more up than most MG's dizzy when timed right. If I have bad luck with Pertronix, maybe I'll go for a rebuild, and then go back to points. Unless it sells first...

As far as pricing, I dunno what anyone can tell me that I don't know already. They would have to live around here, since prices are so variable by region. I can ballpark it pretty well, I think, at $2500-3500, maybe less. I paid $2000 for it, and that was a good price at the time. Since then, I've rebuilt the engine (practically), sorted some other stuff out, and made it look much nicer. There isn't much rust, but there is that botched repair on the drivers front fender.

It is fun to drive, but so is a Miata, and a Miata won't sit for months at a time because I don't feel like fixing it.

[3.0L V6]

It is fun to drive, but so is a Miata, and a Miata won't sit for months at a time because I don't feel like fixing it.

That's one of the 'charms' (if you feel that way) about old British cars. You bond with them through repairs and whilst driving. It's cool - unless you don't have time to be fixing stuff and just want to enjoy driving the car.

[Secret Chimp]

I'd get it running right and sell it. If you aren't feeling a real connection with the car it probably isn't worth much more of your time.

[Rupert]

Oh, I have the connection. That's why there is some debate.

[bing_oh]

That's one of the 'charms' (if you feel that way) about old British cars. You bond with them through repairs and whilst driving. It's cool - unless you don't have time to be fixing stuff and just want to enjoy driving the car.

Very much so. They're not very reliable...there's always something to fix, adjust, or otherwise tinker with...but that's one of the things that classic Brit car enthusiasts like. We're all shade tree mechanics to some degree, else we wouldn't have gotten into it in the first place.

[Rupert]

For sure. I'm OK with some degree of tinkering and adjusting, but I don't like it when I have to keep fixing problems, etc.

Hell, it could be that I put the Pertronix in, and it never breaks down again (hahaha, sure). However, it's more likely that it will make the engine reliable enough, but then the other systems will start to fail. There's already a clunk in the front end (always been there), and I've never torn into the brakes (just made sure they were there and the lines looked good). Who knows about all the little stupid bullet connectors under the hood and elsewhere...

Basically, even a reliable engine is only 1/3 of the battle.

Anyway, I ordered the Pertonix unit just now, so I will install it next weekend. I'll probably list it on craigslist then.

[Rupert]

Here's my draft craigslist ad, to be posted after I put the Pertronix in there:

Changes in italics.

1972 MG MGB $4200/offer

Fairly well sorted chrome bumper MGB, located in west Boise. 1800 4-cylinder engine, 4-speed manual transmission. Great driver!

The engine has been solidly gone-through. Carbs are in good shape and are in tune, I just installed Pertronix ignition, and the other ignition components are in good shape or new. The engine has been rebuilt very recently (new rings, re-seated valves by Loma in Boise). Mostly new hoses, new oil cooler, new heater valve, new side-cover gaskets, upgraded headlights with relays. Everything is clean and in good shape.

The body is in pretty good shape. The only rust is right where you'd expect, on the doglegs behind the doors. I can't find any more rust anywhere, and believe me, I looked (rockers, underbody, trunk, floorpans)! There are a few dings and paint scratches. The only major issue is a badly repaired dent on the left front fender (sloppy bondo and paint).

The interior is pretty good, too. There are a few small to medium sized rips in the seats, under seat covers, and a smallish crack on the dash. All the instruments work perfectly. I never had a center console lid, so I took the center console out (it comes with the car). The top is in pretty good shape, but I did just fix a tear that a previous owner caused by not folding the top right. I have a tonneau cover for it.

It's got a decent, tasteful, audio system in it. Four speakers (in the doors and behind the seats), cassette deck, and older CD changer (not installed). The whole thing looks like it belongs there.

Brakes are in good shape, but they could use a bleed. Suspension and steering are fine. I never got into them past checking them out for safety. The electronics all work, and I haven't had any problems with them.

I love the car, especially the sound, but I can't keep up with the tinkering and such that comes with an old car, so I have decided to let it go. I'm flexible on the price and serious about selling. I have pretty complete records for the last year and a half or so (the time I've owned it). Come check it out and make an offer. Use the email above for questions and to arrange to see it. Thanks for looking!

[The Pirate]

I'm leery of mentioning flexibility on price, because I always get the screwballs that offer 1/3 of what I'm asking.  I'll negotiate a bit (as is the norm on CL), but I'm not moving 50 percent or more on the price.  YMMV, but I'm amazed at the idiots, I've had people try to haggle via email before they've even seen the damn item!

Just out of curiosity, what is the lowest price that you would happily accept?  Also, proceeds from the sale are going to a Miata budget?

[Rupert]

I mention it because I'm asking more than it's worth by quite a bit at the moment. I think with an old car like this, most of the screwballs won't bother, but I'm happy to email back saying no. I'm pretty well versed in craigslist morons by now.

I'm hoping to get more than $3000, but I'd accept that. I mean, we'll see; it could be that no one bites at anything close to that and I end up selling it for $2000. You never know with old cars like this.

And it's all going directly into a Miata, as soon as a good one that I like comes up locally, or I take the time to get one from Portland.

[Rupert]

I'm always torn about putting up an ad with a ton of information, or an ad with essentials only. I never know which will get better response. I think the tons of info type is best with an old car like this, yeah?

Also, I changed a couple of things in the ad text above.

[Byteme]

I'd be more general with something like "Interior in fair condition, Console removed and comes with car"  Then list any spares you are selling with it.

[S204STi]

Yeah, less is more here.

[bing_oh]

I'm not sure that I agree with the "less is more" idea when you're talking about a classic Brit car. Most people looking at it are going to want to have an idea about the flaws/work that needs to be done. For the most part, you're probably not going to get a buyer that knows nothing about Brit cars of the era, unless you're just talking about a collector looking for a totally restored car (whihc you're obviously not gonna get here).

I'm also not sure whether or not you'll get $3000+ out of it. MGB's are relatively common and you can pick up a "driver" for somewhere in the area of $2000-2500. If the MGB is better than average condition, you might get the $3000-4000 range. Even a well-restored TR3 will normally only pull in $5000-6000, and they're rarer than MGB's. Not to say that you might not find someone willing to pay what you're asking, just that you're probably gonna have to be flexible on the price.

[Rupert]

$3000 is what I expect around here. Remember, car values, especially on classics, vary quite a bit by location (up to a certain price/rarity, of course). But, hey, if I can't get what I want, I'll keep it or take less. Whatev.

[Rupert]

BTW, more changes above (bit about the stereo, little bit about the console coming with the car).

[Rupert]

$&I^%$@* etc.

I got the Pertronix in there just fine, and got the timing set. It runs great, drives OK, until, hesitation/stumbling/missing on acceleration. I drove it around a bit, to try to figure out the problem. It will happen during acceleration only, and not necessarily as soon as I hit the gas. There is sometimes a weird plinky noise coming from what sounds like the driver's side. That's it. WTF? I thought Pertronix either worked or didn't, so it doesn't seem like that would be it. I guess I'll call the mechanic tomorrow...

[Rupert]

So much for putting it on the market today...

[S204STi]

Mixture good?  I'm not sure how those carbs work but I wonder if you're not getting enough fuel from the accelerator pumps when you hit the go pedal.