The Detailing Thread

Started by giant_mtb, July 06, 2010, 09:58:16 PM

FlatBlackCaddy

Quote from: giant_mtb on July 06, 2015, 12:44:15 PM
These are interesting.

http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-microfiber-pads.html



I've mentioned those meguiars pads before, they have 3 different grades(of cut) for their 5" and 6" Microfiber pads. I've only used them a few times but I like them.

giant_mtb

Ya, but deez have a kewl dezine.

FlatBlackCaddy



giant_mtb

Fuck band tees.  Detailing tees!  REPRESENT.


Lebowski

#275
After years of paying someone to wash and detail my vehicles, I've started doing it myself again. And I actually somewhat enjoy it.

I found the videos at www.ammonyc.com to be helpful. A lot of the stuff I already knew, some of it I didn't and even for the stuff I did it was a nice refresh. I've been using a Gilmore foam gun which is cool. Detailers domain also has some good stuff and good info.

giant_mtb

http://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-hydrate/

Gotta keep that paint hydrated and moisturized! Lol detailer jargon.

FlatBlackCaddy

Quote from: giant_mtb on July 13, 2015, 12:03:04 PM
http://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-hydrate/

Gotta keep that paint hydrated and moisturized! Lol detailer jargon.

It's typical of the high end detailing circles to make something sound more complicated or exotic. I do find it amusing.

Lebowski

It's essentially just a lube + spray wax. Not really necessary but works well for drying.

giant_mtb

Quote from: Lebowski on July 13, 2015, 12:07:05 PM
It's essentially just a lube + spray wax. Not really necessary but works well for drying.

I know exactly what it is. I just find it silly that they have to say shit like "hydrate" and "moisturize" instead of saying, y'know, "this is our spray wax and it works really well" or something that doesn't sound all fancy and false. :lol:

And yes, I always use spray detailer of some kind after drying.  That final touch makes a big difference.  Also good to use after you drive after the wash. As water sneaks out of places (Sideview mirrors, lug nuts, grilles and headlight pieces, windshield base) from the wind, it's nice to go back and erase the new water spots that may have formed.

Lebowski

Quote from: giant_mtb on July 13, 2015, 12:15:57 PM
I know exactly what it is. I just find it silly that they have to say shit like "hydrate" and "moisturize" instead of saying, y'know, "this is our spray wax and it works really well" or something that doesn't sound all fancy and false. :lol:

And yes, I always use spray detailer of some kind after drying.  That final touch makes a big difference.  Also good to use after you drive after the wash. As water sneaks out of places (Sideview mirrors, lug nuts, grilles and headlight pieces, windshield base) from the wind, it's nice to go back and erase the new water spots that may have formed.




It's used during drying not after.


12,000 RPM

Civic got problems. Clearcoat on the roof and trunk is fading. Is there any way to save it? I will get pictures later.
Protecctor of the Atmospheric Engine #TheyLiedToUs

giant_mtb

It really wouldn't make much difference. The whole "wax as you dry" concept is more about convenience than anything. The water just helps it spread more evenly (and thinly). 


Lebowski

#283
Quote from: giant_mtb on July 13, 2015, 12:36:43 PM

It really wouldn't make much difference. The whole "wax as you dry" concept is more about convenience than anything. The water just helps it spread more evenly (and thinly). 



Again, the point is as additional lube while drying.  Fwiw I'm not asking for your input.

giant_mtb

That guy does have some cool videos. I wish I got to work on some of those cars.

Must be nice cleaning clean cars all the time. :lol:

FlatBlackCaddy

"Fwiw I'm not asking for your input"

Wooo Sassy.


giant_mtb

Quote from: Lebowski on July 13, 2015, 12:41:37 PM

Again, the point is as additional lube while drying.  Fwiw I'm not asking for your input.

Shit, my bad. I thought this was a place to discuss things.

Byteme

Quote from: giant_mtb on July 13, 2015, 12:15:57 PM
I know exactly what it is. I just find it silly that they have to say shit like "hydrate" and "moisturize" instead of saying, y'know, "this is our spray wax and it works really well" or something that doesn't sound all fancy and false. :lol:



Suckers buy that lingo as gospel and are willing to pay for something they think is special.

They are selling a service.  They can charge more if they make what they are doing sound difficult, exotic and mysterious; something that requires special skills beyond the capabilities of mortal men. 

Lebowski

#288
Quote from: giant_mtb on July 13, 2015, 12:48:35 PM

Shit, my bad. I thought this was a place to discuss things.


Well, if you are going to claim to know "exactly" what something is, maybe you should actually know what it is and how/when/why it's meant to be used, rather than taking issue w/ it based on marketing and continue down that course for multiple posts.  I told you in my first reply it's meant to function as a lubricant, and I could care less what it's named.   

While we're discussing things, I don't agree with your recommendation in your OP for a squeegee or blade type product for drying paint (sounds like a great way to scratch your paint in the event some dirt gets left behind), one of the reasons I wasn't too interested in your input re drying.

FlatBlackCaddy

Ohh shit. Sounds like a detail competition in the works here.

giant_mtb

Quote from: Lebowski on July 13, 2015, 01:37:29 PM
Well, if you are going to claim to know "exactly" what something is, maybe you should actually know what it is and how/when/why it's meant to be used, rather than taking issue w/ it based on marketing and continue down that course for multiple posts.  I told you in my first reply it's meant to function as a lubricant, and I could care less what it's named.   

While we're discussing things, I don't agree with your recommendation in your OP for a squeegee or blade type product for drying paint (sounds like a great way to scratch your paint in the event some dirt gets left behind), one of the reasons I wasn't too interested in your input re drying.

Note that I said "spray detailer" not spray wax. Different products. I was simply talking about what I do after a wash instead of using spray wax. 

Sorry that I think using silly marketing terms is silly. :huh:

And you're absolutely right, blades can scratch paint if they drag dirt around. So can any product. Using tools properly is critical, and that's why you swipe the blade clean constantly, similar to turning a towel to a fresh side to prevent the same thing.  For the record, I wrote all that shit like 6 years ago and havenVT touched it in A while. I wouldn't use a squeegee on a brand new paint job. A perfect finish should only be blown dry, which I did on my A4 for quite a while. Only way to minimize scratches to near-zero while drying is to use only air.  Afterwards, you can use a spray wax or spray detailer to finish up any remaining water spots (or of course wax/polish it normally).

Oh shit, there I go talking about what I do because this is a detailing thread and I like to talk about detailing. Sorry. No input. Forgot.


Lebowski

Quote from: giant_mtb on July 13, 2015, 02:09:04 PM

Note that I said "spray detailer" not spray wax. Different products. I was simply talking about what I do after a wash instead of using spray wax. 

Sorry that I think using silly marketing terms is silly. :huh:

And you're absolutely right, blades can scratch paint if they drag dirt around. So can any product. Using tools properly is critical, and that's why you swipe the blade clean constantly, similar to turning a towel to a fresh side to prevent the same thing.  For the record, I wrote all that shit like 6 years ago and havenVT touched it in A while. I wouldn't use a squeegee on a brand new paint job. A perfect finish should only be blown dry, which I did on my A4 for quite a while. Only way to minimize scratches to near-zero while drying is to use only air.  Afterwards, you can use a spray wax or spray detailer to finish up any remaining water spots (or of course wax/polish it normally).

Oh shit, there I go talking about what I do because this is a detailing thread and I like to talk about detailing. Sorry. No input. Forgot.




Sounds like you'd be a good candidate to try ammo hydrate.

FlatBlackCaddy

Quote from: Lebowski on July 13, 2015, 02:58:20 PM

Sounds like you'd be a good candidate to try ammo hydrate.

Larry is that you?

Lebowski

Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on July 13, 2015, 03:00:27 PM

Larry is that you?


Paint is like skin.  It breathes like skin and should be treated like skin.

FlatBlackCaddy

Quote from: Lebowski on July 13, 2015, 03:06:54 PM
Paint is like skin.  It breathes like skin and should be treated like skin.

OMG, it is you.

Morris Minor

Quote from: giant_mtb on July 01, 2015, 10:48:33 AM
Yep, this clay bar mitt is the shit.  Wash normally, rinse, wash again to lay down some soapy water for lube, dunk the matt, and work section by section rinsing it in between. Using Dawn and Meg's D111 Shampoo Plus. Slippery slippery.

How's the clay bar mitt holding out? I have one on my AMZN wishlist but have not pulled the trigger
⏤  '10 G37 | '21 CX-5 GT Reserve  ⏤
''Simplicity is Complexity Resolved'' - Constantin Brâncuși

giant_mtb

Quote from: Morris Minor on September 19, 2015, 01:46:21 PM
How's the clay bar mitt holding out? I have one on my AMZN wishlist but have not pulled the trigger

I'd recommend it. I've done a few vehicles' worth and it has plenty of life left. It's pretty convenient to have. Still gotta make sure to lube the surface and rinse the mitt often (just like you fold/knead real clay often), but then it all just conveniently rinses off. No pressure necessary, just let its wet weight do the pressure and glide it on the paint. :ohyeah:

Another benefit is it isn't as temperature-sensitive as clay. I wouldn't recommend using it in very cold temps, but it still works beyond the point where normal clay gers too tough to be useful/safe.  The softer the clay, the better it can "soak" up the debris, whereas tougher/colder clay tends to drag shit around more and it's just harder to work with (contours, corners, etc.).

giant_mtb

Also really pleased with this stuff so far...http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-tire-seal-trim-restore.html

I Herculined my plastic truck fenders and someone brought up fading issues, so I bought that. $50 is a lot for 16oz of product, but a little goes a long way and it is very effective so far. I used it on the hercufenders and all the other trim (side mirror, plastic bed rail covers, rear bumper cover, etc) which was a little faded and caked from the PO's buff job.  Turned out really, really nice. Better than any other trim restore/seal product I've used. I applied it about two weeks ago and it's still super fresh. It's rainy season, so it's been rained on and such for hours and the water is beading awesome and the color is staying nice and clean. Just washed truck and it didn't affect it at all, either.




BENZ BOY15

So I saw an ad at the post office for eco friendly "waterless mobile detailing."

How does that work? Does it work? :lol:

giant_mtb

It's basically like using a spray detailer. Spray on the waterless wash, let it soak per instructions, and then wipe away. Probably works fine on average vehicles, but I'd never use it on an actually dirty vehicle.