The Detailing Thread

[BimmerM3]

I've used orbital buffers a lot for waxing, but I've never polished my own cars. I should practice on Explorer.

[giant_mtb]

I've used orbital buffers a lot for waxing, but I've never polished my own cars. I should practice on Explorer.

Go for it. Like I said, you can't make it worse.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Go for it. Like I said, you can't make it worse.

You could burn through the paint ...

[giant_mtb]

You could burn through the paint ...

That's such a myth these days. Maybe if you stood on top of your buffer in one spot for 14 minutes.  But a random-orbit wouldn't even let you do that.

In the days of single-stage paint and rotary buffers, sure.  But not anymore.

[Eye of the Tiger]

That's such a myth these days. Maybe if you stood on top of your buffer in one spot for 14 minutes.  But a random-orbit wouldn't even let you do that.

In the days of single-stage paint and rotary buffers, sure.  But not anymore.

Well, yeah,   but if you've had a shitty respray done at a fly by night body shop, don't get carried away buffing that nasty orange peel.

[giant_mtb]

Well, yeah,   but if you've had a shitty respray done at a fly by night body shop, don't get carried away buffing that nasty orange peel.

Well, yeah.  You're not wrong.

Orange peel requires wet sanding.  Just look at the pics of my mom's Q5 earlier...factory orange peel.  No such thing as a factory paint job without orange peel.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Well, yeah.  You're not wrong.

Orange peel requires wet sanding.  Just look at the pics of my mom's Q5 earlier...factory orange peel.  No such thing as a factory paint job without orange peel.

Shitty body shops are worse. Orange peel, drips, fish eyes, off color,.. might as well sticker bomb it.

[giant_mtb]

Shitty body shops are worse. Orange peel, drips, fish eyes, off color,.. might as well sticker bomb it.

Luckily I don't think we have any shitty body shops around here. Don't think they'd last. The people that want cheap ass body work just do it themselves.

[Submariner]

If I were to do a light detail, how would I go about doing it?  My car has 50k miles, is black, and has the predictable swirl marks and a few deeper scratches.  I'm not comfortable with polishing (would that mean I'd use a random orbit sander to minimize the chances of cutting?), nor do I know much of anything about how to correct paint.  Is this something I can safely learn on a decent car or should I just bite the bullet and pay the $900+ to have a paint correction done?

[giant_mtb]

$900 for paint correction?  Jesus Christ, man, I'll do it for $275.

Yes, it is something you can safely learn. As I mentioned a few posts back, just go for it.  Get a random-orbit buffer and some good pads. Start with something light like a finishing polish or even just a wax job at low speed to get a feel for the machine and go from there.  It's very difficult to make it worse.  Do it in the garage, have a couple beers, and work on it.

Steps for a light detailing:

1. Thorough Wash
2. Clay bar (or clay bar mitt while washing, which I highly recommend)
3. Polishing/light-cutting buffer pad and a light-cut polish like Meg's Swirl Remover
4. Finishing pad and wax

The only big things to keep in mind while buffing:
1. Let the machine do the work, heavy pressure is not necessary
2. Always keep the buffer moving, even if you're going back and forth on a deeper scratch
3. Have fun

[Submariner]

$900 for paint correction?  Jesus Christ, man, I'll do it for $275.

Yes, it is something you can safely learn. As I mentioned a few posts back, just go for it.  Get a random-orbit buffer and some good pads. Start with something light like a finishing polish or even just a wax job at low speed to get a feel for the machine and go from there.  It's very difficult to make it worse.  Do it in the garage, have a couple beers, and work on it.

Steps for a light detailing:

1. Thorough Wash
2. Clay bar (or clay bar mitt while washing, which I highly recommend)
3. Polishing/light-cutting buffer pad and a light-cut polish like Meg's Swirl Remover
4. Finishing pad and wax

The only big things to keep in mind while buffing:
1. Let the machine do the work, heavy pressure is not necessary
2. Always keep the buffer moving, even if you're going back and forth on a deeper scratch
3. Have fun

Thanks for the steps.  I wasn't sure if I was missing anything.

I'm okay if my polishing job doesn't do much to fix the paint.  I'd rather learn the steps slowly.

When I'm waxing, do I use the same machine to wax or should I apply by hand?  What buffer pad should I use? Should I use lube for the mitt?  What waxes are best?  There are too many products out there for my own good!

[giant_mtb]

Yeah, just take your time and get a feel for it!

You can wax by hand if you want, or use the machine at a low speed (a great way to get a feel for it before you move on to actual correction). I like to use the buffer because it spreads the wax really consistently and evenly. For wax, you can use a finishing/polishing pad, I can post some links later. Yes, you want to use lube for the mitt...soapy water is what I usually use as it's just part of the wash process.  My favorite wax right now is Collinite Insulator Wax. But really, any wax will do the trick.

[giant_mtb]

Here are the first pictures of a detailed vehicle I took with my new phone.  Haven't seen them on the big screen here yet...







Looks pretty good.  Better than the pics from my old phone (not that they were bad).  The HDR seems much more pronounced, and the pictures look great.  That first picture especially, with the green on the tree in the background, looks awesome!  Also, this blue paint is an awesome color, and I generally like the stability (for lack of a better word) of GM paints.  They're durable and clean nicely.

[giant_mtb]

Also, damn, sorry for all the weeds growing in the cracks between concrete patches.  I mowed the lawn the other day and went to go weed-whackin', but I ran out of wacker line, so I haven't gotten to it yet.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Just pour gasoline on it and light it on fire.

[MrH]

Wow.  You should have bought a new phone earlier.  That looks a lot better than your previous pictures.

Also, your building could use a new cleaning and coat of paint.  Starting to get that distressed look

[giant_mtb]

Also, your building could use a new cleaning and coat of paint.  Starting to get that distressed look

Send me a check.



I know...I'm thinking/hoping to paint it either later this summer or next.  But what colors...

[giant_mtb]

Thinking about getting an ozone generator machine thing.  Supposed to be great for odor elimination.  I thought they were really expensive (and they can be), but apparently not.  Can get one for like $70-80 on Amazon.

[BimmerM3]

Thinking about getting an ozone generator machine thing.  Supposed to be great for odor elimination.  I thought they were really expensive (and they can be), but apparently not.  Can get one for like $70-80 on Amazon.

Based on a few minutes of research I did about four years ago, it seems like that's basically the only way to really get rid of cigarette smell.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Ozone works good on killing doge smell in house. It also regenerstes the ozone layer, right?

[giant_mtb]

Based on a few minutes of research I did about four years ago, it seems like that's basically the only way to really get rid of cigarette smell.

Yeah.  I get the occasional customer who just bought a car and somehow didn't realize it was smoked in, or their pet had an accident, etc.  Shampooing and odor bombs don't always truly do the trick.  But if I can stick an ozone machine in a car for 30-60 minutes and be done with it...fuck yeah.

[giant_mtb]

Ozone works good on killing doge smell in house. It also regenerstes the ozone layer, right?

Yes.  I hear it's very healthy to breathe in as well.

[MrH]

I did one of those odor bombs in the S2000 when I got it.  It had just a musty, dirty smell to it.  Like an old attic.  The cabin air filter was still the original and packed full of leaves and debris.  Replaced that and did one of those odor bombs and it worked great.

[giant_mtb]

I did one of those odor bombs in the S2000 when I got it.  It had just a musty, dirty smell to it.  Like an old attic.  The cabin air filter was still the original and packed full of leaves and debris.  Replaced that and did one of those odor bombs and it worked great.

Yeah, they do work, and I do use them.  But I'd like to try an ozone thing as well.  Especially for a smoker's vehicle...shampooing the headliner on a smoker's vehicle is a nasty, nasty project.  Spray shampoo up there and it just starts dripping back down with nasty orange tar shit.

[CaminoRacer]

Yeah, they do work, and I do use them.  But I'd like to try an ozone thing as well.  Especially for a smoker's vehicle...shampooing the headliner on a smoker's vehicle is a nasty, nasty project.  Spray shampoo up there and it just starts dripping back down with nasty orange tar shit.

2o6's video of steam cleaning a smoker's car was nasty AF. Seemed satisfying to get all the nasty shit out, though.

[giant_mtb]

2o6's video of steam cleaning a smoker's car was nasty AF. Seemed satisfying to get all the nasty shit out, though.

For sure.  One of the main reasons I actually don't mind my work is because I get instant gratification over the whole process.  Start with something dirty...4-6 hours later, it's a complete, shiny hunk of metal.  Woo!

[CaminoRacer]

Yeah. I enjoy cutting the grass for the same reason.

[giant_mtb]

Yeah. I enjoy cutting the grass for the same reason.

Hell yeah.  And snowblowing.  Last winter somebody asked me why I don't hire somebody to plow the shop's driveway in the winter...bro, I fuckin' love snowblowing.

[HurricaneSteve]

Good stuff thanks for the advice. Another question, do you wait until there are multiple swirlmarks/hairline scratches before running the buffer? Or do you spot cut/polish too if there's say a small spot that could use some cleaning up?

Yeah, just take your time and get a feel for it!

You can wax by hand if you want, or use the machine at a low speed (a great way to get a feel for it before you move on to actual correction). I like to use the buffer because it spreads the wax really consistently and evenly. For wax, you can use a finishing/polishing pad, I can post some links later. Yes, you want to use lube for the mitt...soapy water is what I usually use as it's just part of the wash process.  My favorite wax right now is Collinite Insulator Wax. But really, any wax will do the trick.

[giant_mtb]

If something happens and you notice a spot that could use it, go for it.  Like if somebody brushes up against your car with their rough pants or you get a scratch from a branch or something...go for it and do that spot/area.  No harm.

But generally, yeah, you want to do the whole thing all at once so that the finish is consistent all across the car.