"Oh what a feeling!" (2o6's Yaris)

[Soup DeVille]

I will take it to toyota, could be clock spring, could be a seat or seatbelt sensor. Who freaking knows.

It will be money. I know that much.

[2o6]

It will be money. I know that much.

I know.



In order to save money, I'm just going to fix the cooling fan myself. Just drain out the resovoir, and the stupid fan literally clips onto the radiator.

[GoCougs]

Be wary about making a bad situation worse by shade treeing it - it's ~$1,000 for a reason.

Other non-Toyota new car dealers will work on Toyotas. Probably should try that for an add'l estimate.

[2o6]

No.

[GoCougs]

You're making this lesson harder than it needs to be...

[2o6]

Why should I pay the dealer an outrageous fee to bill me several times over for a job that's actually quite simple? The fan is dead. Replace with new fan assembly. I've already ordered the part, so it's a moot point.

Heck, I may just do it myself, it looks to be fairly easy.

[2o6]

Possible source:


Alternator. Remember how I said I would just ignore this alternator issue when I first got the car? Well, it may be coming back to bite me in the ass. Essentially, these stock Toyota alternators fail because the voltage regulator doesn't work correctly; the system will generally charge just fine. (No charge light, alternator shows up as "fine" in any test) However, when the battery is low, the alternator and voltage regulator will boost voltage to the SRS system to a normal level. Since mine doesn't work correctly, coupled with a likely stressed battery, and a failed fan plus the extra outside heat of this week (around 90 degrees) may be causing it to cut in and out. When current is corrected, light turns out.

[2o6]

That also might explain why I got no code when I tried "jumping the pins" on my OBDII port.

[280Z Turbo]

Why should I pay the dealer an outrageous fee to bill me several times over for a job that's actually quite simple? The fan is dead. Replace with new fan assembly. I've already ordered the part, so it's a moot point.

Heck, I may just do it myself, it looks to be fairly easy.

Your shadetreeism will cause your car to car to explode.

[2o6]

Your shadetreeism will cause your car to car to explode.

There are two hoses in the way (one for the airbox, looks like) and what looks to be four clips holding it to the radiator. I'm betting most of the labor charge is assembling the fan itself.

[TurboDan]

Airbag light came on.

I don't know what to think right now.

Don't mess with that. If the car "senses" it's been in an accident (which can occur even days after an airbag light comes on), all kinds of bad things can happen, up to and including your engine shutting off in the middle of driving.

That sucks, dude. Honestly, if you really like the Yaris that much, I'd trade it in for another Yaris. No car should be giving you that many problems all at once. There's a possibility you just got a lemon. 

[Galaxy]

There's a possibility you just got a lemon.  

Thought those did not grow in Japan?  



Edit: Well I guess the Yaris is built in places where they do grow.

[2o6]

Don't mess with that. If the car "senses" it's been in an accident (which can occur even days after an airbag light comes on), all kinds of bad things can happen, up to and including your engine shutting off in the middle of driving.

That sucks, dude. Honestly, if you really like the Yaris that much, I'd trade it in for another Yaris. No car should be giving you that many problems all at once. There's a possibility you just got a lemon. 

I haven't ruled it out. Essentially I have to sell the Yaris and get another vehicle. I should be able to sell the car and not end up underwater.


-------------------

Magically, all the Toyota dealers are booked solid for an SRS check, and it kind of terrifies me. I think they may try and tear the car to pieces.


Might be testing the alternator theory blind, but it makes sense, though. The light stays off when there is minimal electrical load (when first started) but comes on when accessories and such turn on. Then it'll tend click off when returned to idle with no accessories.

[nickdrinkwater]

Why?

Because it sounds like unfortunately, you bought a lemon.  Get rid before more unforeseen problems appear.

botched repair

Seriously, you're better off looking for a car that has been looked after and spending the extra money on that instead of more repairs.  There's loads of tidy Toyotas around.  IMO

[nickdrinkwater]

What laws exist where you live to protect buyers from buying products not fit for purpose?  There are laws in the UK that in theory protect the buyer from buying a car that falls apart a few weeks later by forcing the seller to repair serious defects or provide a refund (I think).

Assuming the car is out of warranty at this point, then this would be worth checking out...

[Vinsanity]

Damn, now I know why dealers sell those dumb 30-day "warranties"

[TurboDan]

What laws exist where you live to protect buyers from buying products not fit for purpose?  There are laws in the UK that in theory protect the buyer from buying a car that falls apart a few weeks later by forcing the seller to repair serious defects or provide a refund (I think).

Assuming the car is out of warranty at this point, then this would be worth checking out...

It varies by state, but while we have a national "lemon law" to protect those who buy new cars, used cars have almost no protections besides state minimums ? and some states have NO protections for used cars. In my state, a used car under 50K miles would qualify for a 2,000mi/60 day full warranty by law. That's about it.

http://www.edmunds.com/auto-warranty/my-used-cars-a-lemon-am-i-stuck-with-it.html

[TurboDan]

Also, 2o6, did you have a mechanic check this car out before buying??

[2o6]

The problems are looking to be fairly simple to fix, now that I understand how they happened.

What laws exist where you live to protect buyers from buying products not fit for purpose?  There are laws in the UK that in theory protect the buyer from buying a car that falls apart a few weeks later by forcing the seller to repair serious defects or provide a refund (I think).

Assuming the car is out of warranty at this point, then this would be worth checking out...

I've had the car since March, and up until now, there's been nothing wrong.

Because it sounds like unfortunately, you bought a lemon.  Get rid before more unforeseen problems appear.

Seriously, you're better off looking for a car that has been looked after and spending the extra money on that instead of more repairs.  There's loads of tidy Toyotas around.  IMO

Although this is true, these problems (save for the fuel tank) are likely related to one problem; the alternator.

[2o6]

I should have replaced the alternator at the start. Reading about how warning lights on some Yaris owners cars are intermittent due to this (ABS, Brake, P/S ect).


This is going to be a pain for the dealer to check; the alternator will read as "good" because it does charge normally (simply too much or not enough) but they won't check if it fluctuates.



Looks like I'm going solo on this.

[MrH]

Thiiiiiiis is going to end well.

[2o6]

Thiiiiiiis is going to end well.

Who knows.

[Eye of the Tiger]

You can actually test the alternator and the airbag circuits, you know. It's good that you're trying to figure this out, but don't jump to conclusions based on a Yaris forum. RTFSM!

[2o6]

You can actually test the alternator and the airbag circuits, you know. It's good that you're trying to figure this out, but don't jump to conclusions based on a Yaris forum. RTFSM!

Just checked the alternator voltage; it's on the high side. Did a technique on getting the car to tell you the airbag codes. It simply resets. Yaris forum says if it were an airbag fault it would tell you a code. SRS light will also come on if the system gets low voltage, however if the problem corrects itself (by getting the correct voltage) the computer won't store the code. Which is why it won't give me any codes....computer is in a cycle thinking the car's SRS system has the correct voltage. I wouldn't be surprised if the alternator is the reason why the cooling fan burnt out.


Just checked the output of the alternator via a quick test at autozone. It's at around 14.5V  (no audio equipment on, and no cooling fan running), which IIRC is on the high side (Acceptable voltage with no accessories on is around 13-14.5). Increase of revs brings no change in voltage. Autozone guy says everything is "fine" but what does he know? Something awry here.



I still have an appointment with the Toyota dealer to get an SRS scan, but I have a feeling they aren't going to listen to me and simply take the car apart then try and charge me for something mundane.

[Eye of the Tiger]

I am not going to say that 14.5 is high. Did you check it with a load?

[2o6]

I am not going to say that 14.5 is high. Did you check it with a load?

It was the same with load and without a load.

[Eye of the Tiger]

It was the same with load and without a load.

Then the problem did not show itself.

[2o6]

I also hear a slight noise on the alternator belt. (although that would present a different type of failure, typically low voltage)

Then the problem did not show itself.

Then the airbag light reset itself. The thing might be playing tag with me.

[2o6]

I should also say that the battery light will cut in and out every now and again prior to this incident. Since the battery charged up and the light shut off every single time I didn't think anything of it.

[GoCougs]

Thiiiiiiis is going to end well.

I'm not seeing ANY trouble shooting; simply reading stuff on the InnerRepairs. Perhaps it's the alternator, but $Billions are probably spent every year by DIYers simply replacing parts they think are at fault. I hope it all works out well but man, it's risky.