The G-spot

[Morris Minor]

Lots and lots and lots of Internetism regarding G37 AT issues like I describe (general lack of response). I don't call my car a problem per se just that it is noticeably muted in its response. It's why I drive in manual mode at least 50% of the time.

I do find mine is better behaved in "S" mode.

[SVT666]

I do find mine is better behaved in "S" mode.

Yup. But it won't shift up past 5th in S unless you do it manually.

[GoCougs]

I don't have a "S" mode. I only have "D" and "DS." DS is drive sport, which does things like holds gears longer, shifts are harder, etc. I find it almost worthless as it is not consistent - sometimes it will rev match on downshifts and sometimes not. Sometimes it will hold a gear at higher RPM sometimes not. I gave it a go but never use it now.

[SVT666]

I don't have a "S" mode. I only have "D" and "DS." DS is drive sport, which does things like holds gears longer, shifts are harder, etc. I find it almost worthless as it is not consistent - sometimes it will rev match on downshifts and sometimes not. Sometimes it will hold a gear at higher RPM sometimes not. I gave it a go but never use it now.

That's what we're talking about.

[GoCougs]

Hmmm, so not counting the numerous squeaks and rattles (that I myself fixed and the dealer couldn't), other issues have surfaced. Luckily I'm still well within the warranty period but still...

1.) Right rear door lock went fubar and had to be replaced at the last visit.
2.) Compass on rear view mirror is not working (stuck on "S" today).
3.) Right rear window lost "auto up" functionality.

[SVT666]

Hmmm, so not counting the numerous squeaks and rattles (that I myself fixed and the dealer couldn't), other issues have surfaced. Luckily I'm still well within the warranty period but still...

1.) Right rear door lock went fubar and had to be replaced at the last visit.
2.) Compass on rear view mirror is not working (stuck on "S" today).
3.) Right rear window lost "auto up" functionality.

A few days after we bought our car only one window had "auto up"  working and that was the rear left.   Two weeks later the rest started working again and there hasn't been an issue since.  It's the weirdest thing.

[GoCougs]

I fixed the windshield popping/creaking noise per this thread on MyG37. It's a bit of PITA and if/when the windshield needs to be replaced it'll have to be done again. Poor design by Infiniti, and not only because this fix-it post is a sticky on the most popular G forum around .

[SVT666]

I fixed the windshield popping/creaking noise per this thread on MyG37. It's a bit of PITA and if/when the windshield needs to be replaced it'll have to be done again. Poor design by Infiniti, and not only because this fix-it post is a sticky on the most popular G forum around .

Right now mine is fine, but I hope it doesn't start after I get my windshield replaced.

[Raza]

A few days after we bought our car only one window had "auto up"  working and that was the rear left.   Two weeks later the rest started working again and there hasn't been an issue since.  It's the weirdest thing.

Sounds like a Mercedes.  First thing is the window switches.  Then it's catastrophic engine failure. 

[afty]

There's a reset procedure you can do if auto up stops working:
http://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/234324-windows-will-not-automatically-roll-up.html

[GoCougs]

There's a reset procedure you can do if auto up stops working:
http://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/234324-windows-will-not-automatically-roll-up.html

Perfect - that worked! Thanks.

[SVT666]

There's a reset procedure you can do if auto up stops working:
http://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/234324-windows-will-not-automatically-roll-up.html

I must have accidentally reset it because mine starting working again without me doing anything specific.

[GoCougs]

Summation of the noise jihad I've been on - it's now complete as far as I can tell. I sorta forgot the new wheels - 18" and hard-as-rocks Dunlops no doubt contributed to problems:

1.) Windshield cowl pop/creak - added rubber tape to cowl per above link
2.) Shifter plate squeak - lubed snap connectors with Li grease
3.) A-pillar speaker rattle - simply removed/installed many times (loosened up push connectors)
4.) Glove box rattle - added foam tape to the door such that it preloads against the latch
5.) Overhead sun glass holder - same as glove box fix plus added foam tape to cover up plastic inside (sun glasses would rattle against it)
6.) Cup holder door squeak - lubed with Li grease
7.) Headliner creaking (turns out it's held in with Velcro, which will age) - simply decoupled a portion of the headliner and inserted paper towels between Velcro joints (made it better but still there a bit as I have to leave some Velcro intact).
8.) License plate and frame - secured with outdoor double-sided tape.
9.) Misc. rattle from center console - turns out there is a loosely installed wedge thingy in the rear of the cup holder compartment - not sure what it does but it's now gone.

[CALL_911]

Wow, well done. Guess that's a benefit of unemployment.

[GoCougs]

Wow, well done. Guess that's a benefit of unemployment.

Actually, the only (and last) thing I did today (my first day of unemployment) was the glove box. There many hours in that list above (esp. figuring out what the problems were). Many hours.

[Laconian]

Car's washed and waxed. Yowza yowza, it looks fantastic. Need to get the 19"ers back on tho.

[afty]

Perfect - that worked! Thanks.

No problem.  I had the same issue after I replaced my battery. 

[GoCougs]

Summation of the noise jihad I've been on - it's now complete as far as I can tell. I sorta forgot the new wheels - 18" and hard-as-rocks Dunlops no doubt contributed to problems:

1.) Windshield cowl pop/creak - added rubber tape to cowl per above link
2.) Shifter plate squeak - lubed snap connectors with Li grease
3.) A-pillar speaker rattle - simply removed/installed many times (loosened up push connectors)
4.) Glove box rattle - added foam tape to the door such that it preloads against the latch
5.) Overhead sun glass holder - same as glove box fix plus added foam tape to cover up plastic inside (sun glasses would rattle against it)
6.) Cup holder door squeak - lubed with Li grease
7.) Headliner creaking (turns out it's held in with Velcro, which will age) - simply decoupled a portion of the headliner and inserted paper towels between Velcro joints (made it better but still there a bit as I have to leave some Velcro intact).
8.) License plate and frame - secured with outdoor double-sided tape.
9.) Misc. rattle from center console - turns out there is a loosely installed wedge thingy in the rear of the cup holder compartment - not sure what it does but it's now gone.

Forgot one:

10.) Rattling cover plates behind interior door handles - removed and used double sided tape to resecure (had to do this to the Accord too).

[SVT666]

Forgot one:

10.) Rattling cover plates behind interior door handles - removed and used double sided tape to resecure (had to do this to the Accord too).

Your car would drive me nuts.  I'm glad I'm not having any of those problems.

[GoCougs]

For those guys with sedans I took off my Tanabe axle back and am going to sell it. Just too much bling for me plus a bit of a PITA to keep clean. Check out YouTube vids - sounds great - maybe 10% more sound than stock and zero droning.

[Cookie Monster]

Why sell it? Didn't you drop like $700 on it? You'll get nothing back for it. Who cares what it looks like and just enjoy it.

[GoCougs]

IIRC it was at least $600. It's top notch stuff - fit & finish and installation. I just don't like the looks of it plus it's a lot of work to keep clean. I also actually gained a bit of part throttle response by going back to stock (wee bit more back pressure).

[SVT666]

It's used,  so $150.

[GoCougs]

Is that an offer?

[SVT666]

It is.

[Cookie Monster]

I still can't believe you dropped over $600 on a muffler, dude...

[GoCougs]

It is.

Okay, sold. Let me clean 'em up first before we go further - I'm want to make sure that the highly polished surface will clean up okay.

You also might want to check that you're okay with shipping charges - via UPS I'm getting ~$70/box (there will be two).

Just so you know, it's all bolt together for G sedan axle back - nuts/bolts are all the same size and it takes but ~10 minutes a side. Really slick install.

[Cookie Monster]

wut

[GoCougs]

I still can't believe you dropped over $600 on a muffler, dude...

Well, it's two mufflers plus connecting pipe and welded-on hangers . It was pricey but all the Internet searches said Tanabe had the best quality, the easiest install (i.e., 100% drop-in replacement for stock) and just so happened to have the exactly sound I was looking for. I'm sure half the cost was in the highly polished stainless steel construction, which if given a choice I'd have gone without.

[SVT666]

$140 for shipping?  Fuck me.  How much is the shipping if you ship them to 98844? That's just across the border from me.