The G-spot

[CALL_911]

Intriguing but judging by the Cayenne's awful reliability and typical German/Porsche horribly expensive repairs don't think I could. That's the kinda car to be out of in 3 years/50,000 miles, and after 3 Japanese cars, I've been spoiled.

So then get out of it in 3 years/50k miles. Cost doesn't seem to be a problem for you. Actually, I'm a little surprised you aren't a leaser

[GoCougs]

So then get out of it in 3 years/50k miles. Cost doesn't seem to be a problem for you. Actually, I'm a little surprised you aren't a leaser

Quick turnaround is a paradigm shift I've been thinking about. Not sure if I'll get there though, and not only because I'm a bit of a cheap bastard still. I can't imagine my taste or preference changing every 3 years. The G is a 9 year old model, and I've had one for ~3.5 years, and the only car I'd seriously consider now is the S4 (and very recently, perhaps its twice-removed cousin, the SQ5) and that was the case ~3.5 years ago.

Leasing is expensive - it's generally cheaper to pay cash and then sell or trade it in. I will say Porsche's one-time lease payment option (pay all months of lease payments in a lump sum for a discount) sounds intriguing but it probably is still more expensive than buying. Plus, philosophically, my days of debt are over (I was never really there for cars). Hard to describe but feels good like few other things. I owe nothing to no one and it means a lot.

[Laconian]

You owe everything to society and the government because they raised you.

[AutobahnSHO]

[GoCougs]

Jesus Christ. I called the three local Infiniti dealers and they all want ~$2,000 for new shocks/struts (~$1,400 of which is parts, though they said they'd install aftermarket if I brought them the parts). I also need a new taillight ($500) and washer fluid reservoir ($600). All three need replacing likely because all of the gravel/rough road driving I do, so the value of the "sports utility sedan" may not be quite what it seemed.

Also, NADA retail on the car is only ~$19k...

[MrH]

$600 for a plastic bottle that holds washer fluid?

Btw, NADA values are absolute trash. They're always high, so dealerships just use them to advertise they're less than NADA values. Edmunds is usually most accurate IMO. KBB is real hit or miss.

[Cookie Monster]

Used or aftermarket that shit. Troll the G forums for ricers who want to dump their stock taillights.

[GoCougs]

Lots of labor to get to the reservoir (they said have to take the front bumper cover off at least, and it's a PITA to get the fluid level sensor out).

Had to replace the same taillight in the Accord. Bought a used one off eBay but of course I didn't realize the bumper cover has to come off till I started. No thanks. Too afraid of chipping paint.

Even just cheapo shocks/struts from a box auto parts store is ~$450, so that saves me only ~$950 and that's with no warranty (on labor) nor any guarantee of restoring factory ride quality.

[SVT666]

Stop going to the fucking dealership and find a good independent mechanic for that stuff.  For anything to do with the electronics go to the dealer, but for basic stuff like brakes and suspension, go independent.

[GoCougs]

lol independents...

[SVT666]

I get all my work done at independents.  My experience has always been great.  My experience at dealerships however is nowhere near as good.

[MexicoCityM3]

Jesus Christ. I called the three local Infiniti dealers and they all want ~$2,000 for new shocks/struts (~$1,400 of which is parts, though they said they'd install aftermarket if I brought them the parts). I also need a new taillight ($500) and washer fluid reservoir ($600). All three need replacing likely because all of the gravel/rough road driving I do, so the value of the "sports utility sedan" may not be quite what it seemed.

Also, NADA retail on the car is only ~$19k...

So much for Japanese so-called long term cheap maintenance. Premium is premium.

[Cookie Monster]

So much for Japanese so-called long term cheap maintenance. Premium is premium.

Except that cougs does more offroading in his sport sedan than most people do in their jeeps...

[GoCougs]

So much for Japanese so-called long term cheap maintenance. Premium is premium.

Still way better than ze Germans though. WAY better.

[MexicoCityM3]

Except that cougs does more offroading in his sport sedan than most people do in their jeeps...

I am sure I do more off-roading simply by driving on "normal" Mexican roads.

[68_427]

Gets some coilovers cougs.

slam it

do it

faggit

[GoCougs]

I get all my work done at independents.  My experience has always been great.  My experience at dealerships however is nowhere near as good.

Well, to be fair, I don't have work done at independents so I can't compare. However, the dealership spoils me a bit what with a hassle-free "free" service loaner, which is pretty important these days since I work for myself at an hourly rate. It's just easier and overall not any more expensive.

Totally worth it. I don't have time for the risk of crap work, nor of dealing with having to get a rental or otherwise being without a car for a day or two.

[12,000 RPM]

So much for Japanese so-called long term cheap maintenance. Premium is premium.

All of those prices are like 2-6x too high. A set of new G37 shocks is like $250 in parts. Stealership is just bukkakeing him.

For diagnostic stuff I would go to a dealership. For example the Civic's A/C blows warmish. Had an independent replace the compressor but it's still a little warm. Not taking it back to them, stealership has all the specific protocol and tools to see what the deal is. Just haven't had the time.

But the same independent shop did my Z brakes and those worked great. Stealership wouldn't touch as they were aftermarket (and would have charged a lot more).

In any case maintenance items are maintenance items. Im OK with that even if consumables are expensive. Its the unpredictable repairs Germans seem to have a problem with here, on top of generally more expensive consumables.

[MexicoCityM3]

I do everything at a very good BMW independent here. It's much better than the dealer. And I really mean better, not cheaper.

[GoCougs]

Have the G in for the shocks/struts and other bits, plus they now do wheel repair, so I'm getting all four done. In the mean time they gave me a Q50S AWD loaner. This is the first I've had without the steer-by-wire. It's actually fairly pleasant to drive. I think this color combo works well with the wheels.

[MrH]

That kink in the c-pillar is awful.

[12,000 RPM]

Cougs is getting a Q50SX

[GoCougs]

Meh, not any time soon. It's a decent car (esp. ride, NHV and brake feel are hugely better than the G) when outfitted with normal steering but it's fairly sterile + ~10-year-old power train = enthusiasm is very low. I could make it work if I had to.

[12,000 RPM]

If it aint broke dont fix it.... Id rather an LSx than the new V6TT in the ATS-V

[Char]

$1200  in bolt ons is worth over 60whp...
Just saying.

[GoCougs]

$1200  in bolt ons is worth over 60whp...
Just saying.

No, it is not (or at least not done professionally or a legit 60 whp (i.e., NOZZZZ is invalid)). For a legit N/A 60 whp you'd need either F/I or major engine work (heads/cams).

And this service appointment is gonna cost a lot more than that - $1800 shocks/struts, $1000 refinish wheels, $700 fix the broken fiddly bits...

[Char]

No, it is not (or at least not done professionally or a legit 60 whp (i.e., NOZZZZ is invalid)). For 60 whp you'd need either F/I or major engine work (heads/cams).

And this service appointment is gonna cost a lot more than that - $1800 shocks/struts, $1000 refinish wheels, $700 fix the broken fiddly bits...

No, it requires High Flow Catalytic converters , length optimized exhaust manifolds, a VQ35HR intake manifold and a VVL retune (increase camshaft lift, alter cam timing to be more aggressive) and intakes (but I'm sure the stock box works well enough)

[GoCougs]

No, it requires High Flow Catalytic converters , length optimized exhaust manifolds, a VQ35HR intake manifold and a VVL retune (increase camshaft lift, alter cam timing to be more aggressive) and intakes (but I'm sure the stock box works well enough)

If that's all it took Infiniti would have done that at some point over the 3.7L's 8+ year life span.

At best that is a non legit 60 whp - adding 60 whp at upper RPMs but losing that much or more at lower RPMs = overall a car that isn't any faster (and maybe even slower, given the G's very tall 3rd and 4th gears) and is slower and less responsive in non-performance driving.

[12,000 RPM]

1200... Dubious even just for parts, impossible with labor

[Char]

If that's all it took Infiniti would have done that at some point over the 3.7L's 8+ year life span.

At best that is a non legit 60 whp - adding 60 whp at upper RPMs but losing that much or more at lower RPMs = overall a car that isn't any faster (and maybe even slower, given the G's very tall 3rd and 4th gears) and is slower and less responsive in non-performance driving.

1200... Dubious even just for parts, impossible with labor

You're right, $150
http://www.z1motorsports.com/g37_370z/product_info.php?products_id=7223