¡Bought a MX5 RF!

[giant_mtb]

I've never had to worry about it since I've always bought used, but I thought that most engines were broken in at the factory these days?

The engines are started up a few times during transport and such, but I don't think manufacturers take the time to put every single engine on a dyno and run it long enough to "break it in."

These days, manufacturing and tolerances are so good that "break-in" is pretty much a thing of the past, but it can't hurt to be gentle on a fresh engine.  I imagine a good portion of the car buying populace doesn't give one shit about breaking their engine in (or even know what that means)...there'd be a lot of destroyed engines if it was a truly necessary thing.

[BimmerM3]

The engines are started up a few times during transport and such, but I don't think manufacturers take the time to put every single engine on a dyno and run it long enough to "break it in."

These days, manufacturing and tolerances are so good that "break-in" is pretty much a thing of the past, but it can't hurt to be gentle on a fresh engine.  I imagine a good portion of the car buying populace doesn't give one shit about breaking their engine in (or even know what that means)...there'd be a lot of destroyed engines if it was a truly necessary thing.

Well, I imagine that a good portion of the car buying populace rarely drives at WOT anyway, especially up to redline.

[Cookie Monster]

When I bought my FJ I was told not to keep it at one single RPM either.

Supposedly you want a lot of varying RPMs and loads. Vary the RPM up to about 75% of redline and about 75% WOT. YOu want some load to seat the rings, or so I've heard.

But as Charlie said most of my vehicles are used so at that point it doesn't matter.

[giant_mtb]

I wonder if anybody on the intertubes has done any hard testing of breaking in vs not breaking in.  I bet race car mechanics and engine builders would know a thing or two.

[MX793]

I believe my last several new cars only called for not running at steady RPMs for prolonged periods (IOW, don't use cruise control) for the first 600 miles.  My Kawi said that as well as not to exceed 4000 RPM for the first 600 miles, which was tough since 4000 RPM in top gear is 60 mph.

[MX793]

I wonder if anybody on the intertubes has done any hard testing of breaking in vs not breaking in.  I bet race car mechanics and engine builders would know a thing or two.

Race engines get rebuilt frequently.  For them, break in is just seating the rings so that it doesn't catastrophically fail early.

[giant_mtb]

Race engines get rebuilt frequently.  For them, break in is just seating the rings so that it doesn't catastrophically fail early.

Right, I'm just saying they'd probably have some input on the subject.

[Laconian]

I believe my last several new cars only called for not running at steady RPMs for prolonged periods (IOW, don't use cruise control) for the first 600 miles.  My Kawi said that as well as not to exceed 4000 RPM for the first 600 miles, which was tough since 4000 RPM in top gear is 60 mph.

Mine just says don't race the engine, don't go at steady speeds, and don't stop too hard.

[Cookie Monster]

I've read online of people wringing the shit out of their bikes during break in and that they get more power and reliability out of it.

Sounds too good to be true so I just follow the owner's manual. I figure the OEM's  probably know best in this case.

[68_427]

I've read online of people wringing the shit out of their bikes during break in and that they get more power and reliability out of it.

Sounds too good to be true so I just follow the owner's manual. I figure the OEM's  probably know best in this case.

I've read alot into this and I know people who have done this not only with bikes but hi-po street engines as well.  Alot of people believe in breaking it in the way you plan on riding/driving it.

[AutobahnSHO]

performance vs longevity, OEM is going for the latter.

[Raza]

The manual says "you don't have to but you probably want to".

I was given a 1000 mile break-in for my Jetta (which was in 08), and they scheduled a complimentary 1000 mile "check-in", which included an oil-change. 

[Raza]

Heavier weight, shittier engine, struts up front.

More practical, stiffer, other stuff probably. 

[Eye of the Tiger]

I was given a 1000 mile break-in for my Jetta (which was in 08), and they scheduled a complimentary 1000 mile "check-in", which included an oil-change.

More VW lies.  It was probably broken in by 900 miles.

[CaminoRacer]

1k oil change is a good idea. There's usually goo on the cams from installation that thickens up the oil and gets into the filter. Along with any other stuff from first startup.

[Laconian]

Creature comforts! There are some nice goodies on the car that I was unaware of when I bought it. My favorite are the swiveling headlights, which turn to illuminate the road around corners. I've experienced them before in BMWs and Volvos, but it's a treat to have it for myself. Another cool thing are auto-dimming side mirrors. We have them on the Outback, and they're nice there. In a low car they are a GODSEND, because otherwise every CUV/SUV car would be blasting HID glare right in your face. The heated seats are among the best I've used, farrr better than the "did I pee myself?" luke-warmers of the Outback. The heater gets up to temp quickly, too. It takes about 2 minutes, compared to 5-6 in the Outback. It's pretty ironic that the summer car is better at getting warm than the cold weather car.

[giant_mtb]

[BimmerM3]

Creature comforts! There are some nice goodies on the car that I was unaware of when I bought it. My favorite are the swiveling headlights, which turn to illuminate the road around corners. I've experienced them before in BMWs and Volvos, but it's a treat to have it for myself. Another cool thing are auto-dimming side mirrors. We have them on the Outback, and they're nice there. In a low car they are a GODSEND, because otherwise every CUV/SUV car would be blasting HID glare right in your face. The heated seats are among the best I've used, farrr better than the "did I pee myself?" luke-warmers of the Outback. The heater gets up to temp quickly, too. It takes about 2 minutes, compared to 5-6 in the Outback. It's pretty ironic that the summer car is better at getting warm than the cold weather car.

For some reason I thought our Outback also had swiveling headlights.

Another advantage of a tiny car is that once the heater starts pumping warm air, it doesn't take much time for the cockpit to warm up too.

Heated seats are the one thing I really wish the S2000 had. That said, I just got a new down jacket that keeps me warm at the lowest temps that I'd be driving the S2000 anyway.

[Raza]

Creature comforts! There are some nice goodies on the car that I was unaware of when I bought it. My favorite are the swiveling headlights, which turn to illuminate the road around corners. I've experienced them before in BMWs and Volvos, but it's a treat to have it for myself. Another cool thing are auto-dimming side mirrors. We have them on the Outback, and they're nice there. In a low car they are a GODSEND, because otherwise every CUV/SUV car would be blasting HID glare right in your face. The heated seats are among the best I've used, farrr better than the "did I pee myself?" luke-warmers of the Outback. The heater gets up to temp quickly, too. It takes about 2 minutes, compared to 5-6 in the Outback. It's pretty ironic that the summer car is better at getting warm than the cold weather car.

Good seat heaters probably give you 8-10 degrees on your bottom top down temperature. I don't think I could go into the 20s without seat heaters. Although, without the rear wind deflector in the Z4, high 20s can feel pretty cold, even on surface streets.

[SJ_GTI]

1k oil change is a good idea. There's usually goo on the cams from installation that thickens up the oil and gets into the filter. Along with any other stuff from first startup.

Yeah mine wasn't called out for needing one but I went ahead and got my oil changed when the winter tires were being put on. Figured it couldn't hurt.

[CaminoRacer]

V8 swap needed immediately

http://www.thedrive.com/news/7466/is-a-525-hp-corvette-v-8-too-much-engine-for-an-nd-gen-mazda-mx-5-miata

$50k seems hella steep tho

[Cookie Monster]

V8 swap needed immediately

http://www.thedrive.com/news/7466/is-a-525-hp-corvette-v-8-too-much-engine-for-an-nd-gen-mazda-mx-5-miata

$50k seems hella steep tho

I mean, they have to convert the steering from electric to hydraulic and that includes a ton of custom parts. Those FM V8 cars really look like factory cars once they're done with it, which is a big reason it costs so damn much.

Also, ~$80k for a 525hp roadster doesn't seem terrible. It just depends on how well the chassis copes with it. It's not something I'd do but it's cool nonetheless.

[CaminoRacer]

I mean, they have to convert the steering from electric to hydraulic and that includes a ton of custom parts. Those FM V8 cars really look like factory cars once they're done with it, which is a big reason it costs so damn much.

Also, ~$80k for a 525hp roadster doesn't seem terrible. It just depends on how well the chassis copes with it. It's not something I'd do but it's cool nonetheless.

I think I'd rather build it myself. Seems like there's stuff they include that I wouldn't necessarily want to change, and I'm sure there's things that I would want to change that aren't included. But it's cool. I'd probably stick to the 430 hp version.

[Cookie Monster]

The stock SkyActiv engine is so light and rev happy and so perfectly suited to the car I don't think I'd want to ditch that for a V8.

[Eye of the Tiger]

The stock SkyActiv engine is so light and rev happy and so perfectly suited to the car I don't think I'd want to ditch that for a V8.

What if it was a 2.6 liter V8 that made 350 HP @ 10,000 RPM?

[68_427]

V8 swap needed immediately

http://www.thedrive.com/news/7466/is-a-525-hp-corvette-v-8-too-much-engine-for-an-nd-gen-mazda-mx-5-miata

$50k seems hella steep tho

This thing only traps 123mph in the 1/4 mile.  Kinda sad

[68_427]

The stock SkyActiv engine is so light and rev happy and so perfectly suited to the car I don't think I'd want to ditch that for a V8.

Also the FM V8 car only changes weight distribution by +1% to the front

[r0tor]

What if it was a 2.6 liter V8 that made 350 HP @ 10,000 RPM?

...1.8L 3 rotor making 350 HP @ 10,000 rpms...

[Raza]

...1.8L 3 rotor making 350 HP @ 10,000 rpms...

With no torque and a maximum engine life of 40,000 miles!?  Sign me up!

[MX793]

With no torque and a maximum engine life of 40,000 miles!?  Sign me up!

Probably making well over 200 lb-ft.  I'd guess 230-ish  No big V8, but comparable to a 2.7-3.0L piston engine.