Need big truck: TUNDRA

[giant_mtb]

Likely better than Toyota.  They usually just blame the customer.

But a Toyota won't have quality issues the minute it leaves the dealer lot.

[FoMoJo]

But a Toyota won't have quality issues the minute it leaves the dealer lot.

Sorry, but I'm still bugged about the '65 Toyota Corona, with "Toyoglide", that woke me up every morning around 6:00am grinding its starter motor for about 10 minutes before it started, directly below my bedroom window in the apartment I lived in back then. 

[GoCougs]

The second gen Tundra was leagues beyond Detroit in reliability. F-150 was a disaster with 5.4L and then the Ecoboost and RAM was abysmal across the board. GM (distant) second to Toyota. The third gen Tundra now has tons of issues though. Not good. Same with the new 3/4- and 1-ton GM and Fords, esp. the joint 10-speed AT. Ford still can't build diesels. Cringe that after all these years no full-size pickup maker can get it consistently correct despite the exorbitant cost (Toyota is by far the closest though).

[giant_mtb]

Sorry, but I'm still bugged about the '65 Toyota Corona, with "Toyoglide", that woke me up every morning around 6:00am grinding its starter motor for about 10 minutes before it started, directly below my bedroom window in the apartment I lived in back then. 

Fair enough. Granted, that's quite an old grudge to hold given current standards (FCA being among the worst). But I get it...once a brand is tainted, it's tainted forever in one's mind. 

[Submariner]

The second gen Tundra was leagues beyond Detroit in reliability. F-150 was a disaster with 5.4L and then the Ecoboost and RAM was abysmal across the board. GM (distant) second to Toyota. The third gen Tundra now has tons of issues though. Not good. Same with the new 3/4- and 1-ton GM and Fords, esp. the joint 10-speed AT. Ford still can't build diesels. Cringe that after all these years no full-size pickup maker can get it consistently correct despite the exorbitant cost (Toyota is by far the closest though).

It's astonishing how badly RAM's rust out.  Every RAM I see has severe rot around the rear wheel wheels and the sheetmetal underneath the doors.

[GoCougs]

It's astonishing how badly RAM's rust out.  Every RAM I see has severe rot around the rear wheel wheels and the sheetmetal underneath the doors.

MOPARs have been the rustiest of the three for many many decades.

Also of note, GM to this day still simply only waxes its full-size truck frames, and does not coat or paint them despite selling 750,000+ trucks a year at an average price of $60k (that's $45B!) - see timestamp 4:11:

[Eye of the Tiger]

For about $4000, there is a place that will sandblast the rust off of your undercarriage, clean, etch, and coat it with POR-15. Not sure if TUNDRA is worth that. I mean, I love it, but I think I'll stick with covering the rust with yearly $300 undercoatings.

[Submariner]

For about $4000, there is a place that will sandblast the rust off of your undercarriage, clean, etch, and coat it with POR-15. Not sure if TUNDRA is worth that. I mean, I love it, but I think I'll stick with covering the rust with yearly $300 undercoatings.

I think I know what place you're talking about.  It is a bit steep IMO, especially considering how delicate POR is (you really need to give the POR a few topcoats of enamel, otherwise the POR will decompose pretty quickly).

Is there any way you can gain access to your old shop bay for a few hours?  You can probably remove the large majority of rust with some wire attachments and a drill (or air tools).  For the interior of the frame, use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating.  For all exposed surfaces, either use some rust converter followed up with a few coats of satin enamel or some B'laster Surface Shield or Lucas Red n' Tacky.

If you have access to an air compressor you can spray Red n' Tacky on with a grease gun - Red n' Tacky will last forever...just be sure to tarp off all sides of the vehicle or the shop will be covered in a fine mist of grease.

[Eye of the Tiger]

I think I know what place you're talking about.  It is a bit steep IMO, especially considering how delicate POR is (you really need to give the POR a few topcoats of enamel, otherwise the POR will decompose pretty quickly).

Is there any way you can gain access to your old shop bay for a few hours?  You can probably remove the large majority of rust with some wire attachments and a drill (or air tools).  For the interior of the frame, use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating.  For all exposed surfaces, either use some rust converter followed up with a few coats of satin enamel or some B'laster Surface Shield or Lucas Red n' Tacky.

If you have access to an air compressor you can spray Red n' Tacky on with a grease gun - Red n' Tacky will last forever...just be sure to tarp off all sides of the vehicle or the shop will be covered in a fine mist of grease.

The dealer actually undercoated it before I took delivery, so it has a thick black coating of something. The good part was I got to see the rust before I bought it, so I know what to keep an eye on.

[Submariner]

That's good.  If you ever get a chance, ask them what they used.  I'm curious.

[Eye of the Tiger]

That's good.  If you ever get a chance, ask them what they used.  I'm curious.

They didn't tell me, but I think it's Fluid Film.

[Submariner]

balls

[Eye of the Tiger]

I was poking around underneath while changing the t-case oil, and I found some rot in the bed behind the rear wheels. Looks like that bedliner is staying in there.

[Eye of the Tiger]

I need this Iron Bull bumper

You cannot view this attachment.

[AutobahnSHO]

I need this Iron Bull bumper

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destroy the lower frame in a collision while paying more at the gas pump?....

[Eye of the Tiger]

destroy the lower frame in a collision while paying more at the gas pump?....

You ever hit a deer?

[AutobahnSHO]

You ever hit a deer?

not personally.

There was this family back home that the one kid would hit one every 6 months in the family station wagon. No one else in the family driving the same roads ever had issues. But he tagged at least 3 of them LOL

[Eye of the Tiger]

13.9 MPG commuting for 4 days.

I got all the drivetrain fluids changed, 0W-20 engine oil, fresh filters, Denso laser iridium sperk plugs, tires at 38 PSI, and no special driving. I got to let that V8 stretch its legs sometimes, man.

I'm going to try driving like an eco-dick on this fill-up. Shooting for 14.0 MPG

[CaminoRacer]

Is 0W-20 the stock weight?

[Eye of the Tiger]

Is 0W-20 the stock weight?

Yes. Since it seems to have great oil pressure and doesn't consume a noticeable amount, I'll stick with it. I don't do any real truck stuff, either.

[CaminoRacer]

Nice. I would have expected 5W-30 or something since it's a truck.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Nice. I would have expected 5W-30 or something since it's a truck.

I would if I was towing. Heck, the thing has like four different oil coolers.

[giant_mtb]

0W-20 is becoming the new 5W-30.  Popped the hood on a Yukon the other day with the 5.3L...0W-20.

[Eye of the Tiger]

0W-20 is becoming the new 5W-30.  Popped the hood on a Yukon the other day with the 5.3L...0W-20.

But now they are starting to use 0W-16. Can it get lower than zero? Maybe.

[CaminoRacer]

Just add PTFE to every engine component and skip the oil entirely.

[Eye of the Tiger]

Just add PTFE to every engine component and skip the oil entirely.

Frictionless engines are the future of internal combustion.

[AutobahnSHO]

We're getting close to our sixth fillup on Mav.   Broke 3k miles today. Tank is "13.8" gallons.............

[FoMoJo]

We're getting close to our sixth fillup on Mav.   Broke 3k miles today. Tank is "13.8" gallons.............

So roughly 50 mpg.

[AutobahnSHO]

So roughly 50 mpg.

More like 40ish, we don't go till empty.

EPA originally (2022) rated the truck 42mpg city but (2023) revised to 40mpg City.
(33mpg highway)

[Eye of the Tiger]

15.5 MPG with ecodick engaged.