So, finally, the MG lives! One of the hose clamps for the lower radiator hose was loose (that was one that I'd done, not the mechanic :banghead: ). I borrowed a pressure tester from AutoZone, and the leak became clear. I drove it around today, and, if anything, it runs a little cool now. :rockon:
wewt!
Now you should dump those leaden wheels in favor of some Panasport knockoffs.
No! I love the RoStyles!
Did you ever get it to pass inspection?
Not yet. No time.
Maybe the weekend after next. It has to by the end of the month...
Quote from: Psilos on July 14, 2009, 10:24:11 PM
Not yet. No time.
Maybe the weekend after next. It has to by the end of the month...
There's always time for cars. :nono:
Well, I'm leaving for work stuff tomorrow morning until next Wednesday, so, no, there isn't.
;) :lol:
Quote from: Psilos on July 14, 2009, 10:24:11 PM
Not yet. No time.
Maybe the weekend after next. It has to by the end of the month...
You have to have the MG inspected? It isn't exempted because of its age?
Quote from: bing_oh on July 16, 2009, 08:35:29 AM
You have to have the MG inspected? It isn't exempted because of its age?
Isn't it a '74 or so?
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 16, 2009, 07:46:14 PM
Isn't it a '74 or so?
Probably. "Antique" is generally considered anything more than 25 years old. Alot of states have provisions for "antique, "classic," or "historical" cars that exempt them from things like inspections, emissions, etc.
Quote from: bing_oh on July 17, 2009, 06:35:34 AM
Probably. "Antique" is generally considered anything more than 25 years old. Alot of states have provisions for "antique, "classic," or "historical" cars that exempt them from things like inspections, emissions, etc.
Most of the states I have lived in allow '72 and earlier cars to go without emission checks. So a '74 would still have to get one. I don't know the law in Idaho, though.
Quote from: bing_oh on July 16, 2009, 08:35:29 AM
You have to have the MG inspected? It isn't exempted because of its age?
Yes, and it's a major :facepalm: . Even CA exempts cars older than '74.
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 18, 2009, 01:09:29 PM
Most of the states I have lived in allow '72 and earlier cars to go without emission checks. So a '74 would still have to get one. I don't know the law in Idaho, though.
I do know Idaho law (WRT emissions inspections), and it's retarded. If I still can't get it past, I'll just get classic car plates and assume the police don't care when I drive it to work and the store.
Note to self: Don't move to Idaho.
:lol:
'72 is a long long time ago... here we have emission tests for vehicles up to 20 years old IIRC. It may be 25, but I'm pretty sure it's 20 years
Quote from: hotrodalex on July 23, 2009, 10:21:26 AM
Note to self: Don't move to Idaho.
:lol:
I had a similar note to myself before I moved here... :banghead:
Goddfuckingdammit, again.
Now it's missing a bunch. I think I over-filled the carb dampers, but they are at the right level, now. I pretty much can't drive it. Not to mention that I won't technically be able to drive it after 7/31 until I get the classic plates. Boo.
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/KyleBingham/MGB-SR20DET-A.jpg)
Bah, not worth it.
Worth it.
Worth it.
What engine is that? Looks like a turbo S2k motor.
Quote from: jadewolf123 on July 30, 2009, 07:43:06 AM
What engine is that? Looks like a turbo S2k motor.
Suzuki G13B :wub:
Quote from: jadewolf123 on July 30, 2009, 07:43:06 AM
What engine is that? Looks like a turbo S2k motor.
SR20DET
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 30, 2009, 08:10:10 AM
SR20DET
Nissan eh. I like it. I wouldn't mind getting an older british vert, and dropping a silvertop 4AGE 20V in. Those are sweet motors.
Quote from: jadewolf123 on July 30, 2009, 10:31:51 AM
Nissan eh. I like it. I wouldn't mind getting an older british vert, and dropping a silvertop 4AGE 20V in. Those are sweet motors.
A couple of Nissan SR20s would pull a premium one week before race wars.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 30, 2009, 12:30:28 PM
A couple of Nissan SR20s would pull a premium one week before race wars.
(http://www.axiomotion.com/files/11/vlcsnap-184449.png)
TORETTO! TORETTO! SWAT came into my house, disrespected my whole family because somebody narc'd me out! And you know what? IT WAS YOU!
Aaaand, there goes the thread. :lol:
Quote from: Psilos on July 30, 2009, 11:18:06 PM
Aaaand, there goes the thread. :lol:
The Fast and the Furious is all that matters.
I live my life a quarter-mile at a time.
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 30, 2009, 12:30:28 PM
A couple of Nissan SR20s would pull a premium one week before race wars.
Not if you overnight the parts from Japan. Then Psilos's MG will decimate all.
That motor would decimate the MG.
AND I LIKE SUs, DAMMIT!
Quote from: Psilos on July 31, 2009, 12:59:07 AM
That motor would decimate the MG.
AND I LIKE SUs, DAMMIT!
Weber downdrafts sucka.
Quote from: jadewolf123 on July 31, 2009, 07:48:43 AM
Weber downdrafts sucka.
IT'S NOT AN ALFA, FOOL! ;)
I mean, really, there isn't even that much to be gained from Webers. The SUs are good carbs, and they're way simpler than Webers.
Quote from: Psilos on July 31, 2009, 07:24:31 PM
IT'S NOT AN ALFA, FOOL! ;)
I mean, really, there isn't even that much to be gained from Webers. The SUs are good carbs, and they're way simpler than Webers.
I know. But the look of those beautiful polished velocity stacks is something that makes a young mans heart flutter. :wub:
Quote from: Psilos on July 31, 2009, 07:24:31 PM
IT'S NOT AN ALFA, FOOL! ;)
I mean, really, there isn't even that much to be gained from Webers. The SUs are good carbs, and they're way simpler than Webers.
Way simpler than Webers?! There's like 5 parts on an 48 IDA!
Don't want to swap an engine? Enjoy your 67 poorly machined, inefficient, leaky horsepowers! :lol:
John, you got a photo of yer SUs? :lol:
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on July 31, 2009, 07:36:44 PM
Way simpler than Webers?! There's like 5 parts on an 48 IDA!
Don't want to swap an engine? Enjoy your 67 poorly machined, inefficient, leaky horsepowers! :lol:
OK, I will. :ohyeah:
SUs:
(http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs_v24bike.jpg)
:lol:
:hesaid:
Goddamn son of a bitch piece of shit... Better fucking heal your damn self, MG, because next stop is a goddamn car crusher!
Just had to get that off my chest.
Good, now fix it again.
Ugh. If I can't fix it by the time my classic plates come, it's gone.
But I'll sell it to someone who has the time and desire to take care of it. :lol:
The problem with selling it is that it's just so damn fun to drive. And it's really the perfect car, or would be if I fit a little better and it worked all the time. I've owned it almost nine months, and about half of that time it has been broken. Another quarter of that time, it was snowing. It's like, ya know, Miatas are reliable...
Still just emissions, or did sumpin else brake?
Emissions are solved. I've got classic car plates in the mail. :lol: I decided that whatever is causing the emissions problem (probably some kind of misfire at idle-- I suspect the distributor is pretty worn) isn't that big a deal. After all, I did just have the engine practically rebuilt...
Now, the problem is my own stupid fault. I overfilled the dashpots (piston dampers) on the carbs, and now there's all kind of missing throughout the rev range (most noticeable at lower RPMs, even dying at idle once). Plugs are meh (front are black, but not too bad), there may be a vacuum leak (some of the oil blew out the carb gaskets, but the gaskets look fine, and I tightened the carb bolts), or, I dunno, oil in the float bowl? It's a giant fucking pain in the ass, is what it is. I've got a good (female) friend coming this weekend, and no rad sports car in which to drive!
Basically, shit fuck goddammit.
Quote from: Psilos on August 13, 2009, 08:49:20 PM
Emissions are solved. I've got classic car plates in the mail. :lol: I decided that whatever is causing the emissions problem (probably some kind of misfire at idle-- I suspect the distributor is pretty worn) isn't that big a deal. After all, I did just have the engine practically rebuilt...
Now, the problem is my own stupid fault. I overfilled the dashpots (piston dampers) on the carbs, and now there's all kind of missing throughout the rev range (most noticeable at lower RPMs, even dying at idle once). Plugs are meh (front are black, but not too bad), there may be a vacuum leak (some of the oil blew out the carb gaskets, but the gaskets look fine, and I tightened the carb bolts), or, I dunno, oil in the float bowl? It's a giant fucking pain in the ass, is what it is. I've got a good (female) friend coming this weekend, and no rad sports car in which to drive!
Basically, shit fuck goddammit.
No no no. Say shit goddamn, I'm a man, I'm a man. Fix the dampy things and forget about the oil for a bit.
No, dude, I can't drive it like it is.
No, you can't drive it like it is. You have to fix the dampy things, or just get new carbs.
Well, I've got two SU carbs for sale, Psilos. I'll give you the desperation price on them, even! :devil:
Quote from: NACar on August 14, 2009, 06:35:44 AM
No, you can't drive it like it is. You have to fix the dampy things, or just get new carbs.
The dampy things are fixed, and now it's a problem that they caused... Besides, new SUs are big $, and a rebuild is $150, $35 if I do it myself.
Quote from: bing_oh on August 14, 2009, 09:36:15 AM
Well, I've got two SU carbs for sale, Psilos. I'll give you the desperation price on them, even! :devil:
Which ones, and how much? :lol:
OK, it's been that long since I've driven the MG. I don't think it's been started in at least two months. I'm going out now to make sure it still runs, and then I'm calling the mechanic tomorrow. With luck, it will be fixed this week. With even more luck, it will be sold in two weeks.
Sorry, MG, I have failed you.
It started and ran quite well. For a minute or so, then it stumbled and died. It "starts" but misses catastrophically and stalls out, even with the gas pedal pushed. I'll be towing it to the mechanic, unless an easy solution is found. All the wires and hoses are attached correctly...
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
YOU HAVE CRUSHED ITS LITTLE HEART BY LEAVING IT ALONE. IT'S POUTING. YOU ARE A BAD MAN.
I know! I'm a terrible father. I'm going to adopt it away, for its own good.
What's worse, is that I found a couple of puddles of water in the footwells.
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
You should rejoin Club Brum. With you, me and Kevs we can be the northwest's Three Zoomkateers.
Yeah, a Miata is the plan. I want a red/tan, black/tan, black/black, dark blue/black, or a BRG/black. I think some of those are Ms or Rs...
Are you back in the NW?
Quote from: Psilos on October 25, 2009, 06:04:09 PM
Yeah, a Miata is the plan. I want a red/tan, black/tan, black/black, dark blue/black, or a BRG/black. I think some of those are Ms or Rs...
Are you back in the NW?
I'm going to be back in March after I graduamate.
Neato. We shall have a Miata meet.
I'll adopt the MG from you.
OK.
That'll be $3000 in adoption fees.
:lol:
To the mechanic in the morning! Ha-HA!
So sad. I really like the chrome bumper MGBs. Too bad you haven't got it to work right.
Well, I'm probably going to be putting a japanese engine/trans in my MGB. The current engine has a holley/weber 2 bbl on it. Runs ok, but I want electronic ignition and fuel injection and a bit more power. I'm thinking start with a crashed Miata, use the engine, trans, and seats. Rear end would be cool, too, but a bit of work getting the rear subframe in. And then I'd have to match the front suspension/brakes.
It worked pretty much right when I got it. Then I started fucking with it... :lol:
Actually, this is the first thing that caused it to not run, whatever it is. I bet it will be ready tomorrow, and we'll see what the deal is/was.
Quote from: Rupert on March 03, 2010, 06:51:01 PM
It worked pretty much right when I got it. Then I started fucking with it... :lol:
Actually, this is the first thing that caused it to not run, whatever it is. I bet it will be ready tomorrow, and we'll see what the deal is/was.
So what's wrong with the car and what did you do to, or think you did to it, to cause the problem. I went back and looked at the old posts but it would be easier if you could give a summary.
BTW, properly set up SU's are extremely reliable. Outside of the butterfly on the thropttle shaft, the basic carburator only has one moving part, the piston that drags the attached metering needle up and down in the jet. If rebuilt properly, and then adjusted properly there is little to go wrong until a part fails and a rebuild is needed; typically it's the jet diaphram that ages and ruptures or the throttle shaft seals get worn and require replacement.
Well, it's a long story, but the summary is:
I over-filled the dashpots, which should be no big deal. A day or so later, it started to miss a little. The miss got worse, so I cleaned the dashpot internals. Nothing changed, so I did a bunch of other quick diagnostic stuff. I didn't find anything, and it sat. Then I tried to start it, and it wouldn't. I took it to the mechanic yesterday, and he found that it was the points and condenser, which I had replaced 300 miles previous (and so didn't think to check). It sat for six damned months, and all it was was points and a condenser. :cry:
The dizzy is in need of some help; either a rebuild, or Pertronix, or both. I am thinking of sending it off to Jeff Schlemmer's Advanced Auto, where he rebuilds and recurves to what all the MG guys say is a high standard. That's a bit of money, though, and I'm still not sure I want to keep the car...
But I can drive it now! (At least until this set of points and condenser goes...).
Can you swing the pertronix?
Oh yeah.
It's whether I want to bother to do it if I'm going to sell it, and then whether or not I want to have it rebuilt. I'll probably install the Pertronix and sell it. The carbs are in fine shape, so if I fix the dizzy, then it should be good to go for quite a while. I mean, the engine was just practically rebuilt...
Quote from: Rupert on March 04, 2010, 08:49:01 PM
Oh yeah.
It's whether I want to bother to do it if I'm going to sell it, and then whether or not I want to have it rebuilt. I'll probably install the Pertronix and sell it. The carbs are in fine shape, so if I fix the dizzy, then it should be good to go for quite a while. I mean, the engine was just practically rebuilt...
Is the Pertronix a ton of money? Fix the car and drive it for a while, you may change your mind and decide to keep it. I mean, like you said, the thing is pretty much ready to rock once that's done.
Pertronix would be $100, which is pretty much worth it. A rebuild, including a recurve and Pertonix is about $250. I'll probably put it on craigslist this weekend at a higher-than-it's-worth price, and work my way down until someone bites (or not). I'll drive it until then, and decide later. I want back into a Miata, though, and I certainly can't deal with two little sports cars!
What do you guys think I should ask? $4500? :lol:
Quote from: Rupert on March 04, 2010, 08:13:11 PM
Well, it's a long story, but the summary is:
I over-filled the dashpots, which should be no big deal. A day or so later, it started to miss a little. The miss got worse, so I cleaned the dashpot internals. Nothing changed, so I did a bunch of other quick diagnostic stuff. I didn't find anything, and it sat. Then I tried to start it, and it wouldn't. I took it to the mechanic yesterday, and he found that it was the points and condenser, which I had replaced 300 miles previous (and so didn't think to check). It sat for six damned months, and all it was was points and a condenser. :cry:
The dizzy is in need of some help; either a rebuild, or Pertronix, or both. I am thinking of sending it off to Jeff Schlemmer's Advanced Auto, where he rebuilds and recurves to what all the MG guys say is a high standard. That's a bit of money, though, and I'm still not sure I want to keep the car...
But I can drive it now! (At least until this set of points and condenser goes...).
Yeah, overfilled dashpots won't do any harm. I overfill mine probably every time I top them off.
A lot of aftermarket points rotors and condensors are made in third world countries now and frankly are just crap. Install quality parts and you are probably good to go. I've never been a Petronix fan, there are frequent horror stories on the e-type lists about failures (but those could be related to poor installation, who really knows). If the stock distributor doesn't have excessive play and the mechanical advance and vacuum advance (if it has one) are OK the stock Dizzy is likely good.
Once sorted out, these cars are pure fun for not much dough. If it were me I'd keep it as a toy, but YMMV.
Regardless, have fun with it while you have it.
I'd subscribe to an MG list and solicit their opinion on prices.
It was another one those annoying automotive coincidences, like the time I (as a stupid teenager) put a K & N air filter in my econobox, and at that moment, the muffler died. 0_0
I'm going for Pertronix because it cares less about the condition of the dizzy. My mechanic was saying that there isn't any way to really adjust the points anymore, and the breaker plate(s?) are probably worn out. I know the whole thing is pointed about 15-20 degrees more up than most MG's dizzy when timed right. If I have bad luck with Pertronix, maybe I'll go for a rebuild, and then go back to points. Unless it sells first...
As far as pricing, I dunno what anyone can tell me that I don't know already. They would have to live around here, since prices are so variable by region. I can ballpark it pretty well, I think, at $2500-3500, maybe less. I paid $2000 for it, and that was a good price at the time. Since then, I've rebuilt the engine (practically), sorted some other stuff out, and made it look much nicer. There isn't much rust, but there is that botched repair on the drivers front fender.
It is fun to drive, but so is a Miata, and a Miata won't sit for months at a time because I don't feel like fixing it. :lol:
Quote from: Rupert on March 05, 2010, 07:31:31 PM
It is fun to drive, but so is a Miata, and a Miata won't sit for months at a time because I don't feel like fixing it. :lol:
That's one of the 'charms' (if you feel that way) about old British cars. You bond with them through repairs and whilst driving. It's cool - unless you don't have time to be fixing stuff and just want to enjoy driving the car.
I'd get it running right and sell it. If you aren't feeling a real connection with the car it probably isn't worth much more of your time.
Oh, I have the connection. That's why there is some debate.
Quote from: 3.0L V6 on March 06, 2010, 10:00:59 AMThat's one of the 'charms' (if you feel that way) about old British cars. You bond with them through repairs and whilst driving. It's cool - unless you don't have time to be fixing stuff and just want to enjoy driving the car.
Very much so. They're not very reliable...there's always something to fix, adjust, or otherwise tinker with...but that's one of the things that classic Brit car enthusiasts like. We're all shade tree mechanics to some degree, else we wouldn't have gotten into it in the first place.
For sure. I'm OK with some degree of tinkering and adjusting, but I don't like it when I have to keep fixing problems, etc.
Hell, it could be that I put the Pertronix in, and it never breaks down again (hahaha, sure). However, it's more likely that it will make the engine reliable enough, but then the other systems will start to fail. There's already a clunk in the front end (always been there), and I've never torn into the brakes (just made sure they were there and the lines looked good). Who knows about all the little stupid bullet connectors under the hood and elsewhere...
Basically, even a reliable engine is only 1/3 of the battle.
Anyway, I ordered the Pertonix unit just now, so I will install it next weekend. I'll probably list it on craigslist then.
Here's my draft craigslist ad, to be posted after I put the Pertronix in there:
Changes in italics.
1972 MG MGB $4200/offer
Fairly well sorted chrome bumper MGB, located in west Boise. 1800 4-cylinder engine, 4-speed manual transmission. Great driver!
The engine has been solidly gone-through. Carbs are in good shape and are in tune, I just installed Pertronix ignition, and the other ignition components are in good shape or new. The engine has been rebuilt very recently (new rings, re-seated valves by Loma in Boise). Mostly new hoses, new oil cooler, new heater valve, new side-cover gaskets, upgraded headlights with relays. Everything is clean and in good shape.
The body is in pretty good shape. The only rust is right where you'd expect, on the doglegs behind the doors. I can't find any more rust anywhere, and believe me, I looked (rockers, underbody, trunk, floorpans)! There are a few dings and paint scratches. The only major issue is a badly repaired dent on the left front fender (sloppy bondo and paint).
The interior is pretty good, too. There are a few small to medium sized rips in the seats, under seat covers, and a smallish crack on the dash. All the instruments work perfectly. I never had a center console lid, so I took the center console out (it comes with the car). The top is in pretty good shape, but I did just fix a tear that a previous owner caused by not folding the top right. I have a tonneau cover for it.
It's got a decent, tasteful, audio system in it. Four speakers (in the doors and behind the seats), cassette deck, and older CD changer (not installed). The whole thing looks like it belongs there.
Brakes are in good shape, but they could use a bleed. Suspension and steering are fine. I never got into them past checking them out for safety. The electronics all work, and I haven't had any problems with them.
I love the car, especially the sound, but I can't keep up with the tinkering and such that comes with an old car, so I have decided to let it go. I'm flexible on the price and serious about selling. I have pretty complete records for the last year and a half or so (the time I've owned it). Come check it out and make an offer. Use the email above for questions and to arrange to see it. Thanks for looking!
I'm leery of mentioning flexibility on price, because I always get the screwballs that offer 1/3 of what I'm asking. I'll negotiate a bit (as is the norm on CL), but I'm not moving 50 percent or more on the price. YMMV, but I'm amazed at the idiots, I've had people try to haggle via email before they've even seen the damn item!
Just out of curiosity, what is the lowest price that you would happily accept? Also, proceeds from the sale are going to a Miata budget?
I mention it because I'm asking more than it's worth by quite a bit at the moment. I think with an old car like this, most of the screwballs won't bother, but I'm happy to email back saying no. I'm pretty well versed in craigslist morons by now. :lol:
I'm hoping to get more than $3000, but I'd accept that. I mean, we'll see; it could be that no one bites at anything close to that and I end up selling it for $2000. You never know with old cars like this.
And it's all going directly into a Miata, as soon as a good one that I like comes up locally, or I take the time to get one from Portland. :lol:
I'm always torn about putting up an ad with a ton of information, or an ad with essentials only. I never know which will get better response. I think the tons of info type is best with an old car like this, yeah?
Also, I changed a couple of things in the ad text above.
I'd be more general with something like "Interior in fair condition, Console removed and comes with car" Then list any spares you are selling with it.
Yeah, less is more here.
I'm not sure that I agree with the "less is more" idea when you're talking about a classic Brit car. Most people looking at it are going to want to have an idea about the flaws/work that needs to be done. For the most part, you're probably not going to get a buyer that knows nothing about Brit cars of the era, unless you're just talking about a collector looking for a totally restored car (whihc you're obviously not gonna get here).
I'm also not sure whether or not you'll get $3000+ out of it. MGB's are relatively common and you can pick up a "driver" for somewhere in the area of $2000-2500. If the MGB is better than average condition, you might get the $3000-4000 range. Even a well-restored TR3 will normally only pull in $5000-6000, and they're rarer than MGB's. Not to say that you might not find someone willing to pay what you're asking, just that you're probably gonna have to be flexible on the price.
$3000 is what I expect around here. Remember, car values, especially on classics, vary quite a bit by location (up to a certain price/rarity, of course). But, hey, if I can't get what I want, I'll keep it or take less. Whatev.
BTW, more changes above (bit about the stereo, little bit about the console coming with the car).
$&I^%$@* etc.
I got the Pertronix in there just fine, and got the timing set. It runs great, drives OK, until, hesitation/stumbling/missing on acceleration. I drove it around a bit, to try to figure out the problem. It will happen during acceleration only, and not necessarily as soon as I hit the gas. There is sometimes a weird plinky noise coming from what sounds like the driver's side. That's it. WTF? I thought Pertronix either worked or didn't, so it doesn't seem like that would be it. I guess I'll call the mechanic tomorrow...
So much for putting it on the market today...
Mixture good? I'm not sure how those carbs work but I wonder if you're not getting enough fuel from the accelerator pumps when you hit the go pedal.
British car: Don't buy one without a mechanic on speed dial.
Quote from: R-inge on March 14, 2010, 07:07:21 PM
Mixture good? I'm not sure how those carbs work but I wonder if you're not getting enough fuel from the accelerator pumps when you hit the go pedal.
I hate to blame the carbs... It's the last place you look on these old things, but, I dunno, everything else seems to check out. And it doesn't happen every time I accelerate, just sometimes. Maybe a float is f-ed up, or maybe the valves are way off. But all of this stuff has been adjusted and checked in the last 50-100 miles, so I dunno. I think it's back to the mechanic, and then we'll see. Maybe the fuel pump is trying to die...
Quote from: the Teuton on March 14, 2010, 08:20:30 PM
British car: Don't buy one without a mechanic on speed dial.
:cry:
This is the only sensible fix:
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/KyleBingham/MGB-SR20DET-A.jpg)
It's British!
This is the only sensible fix:
(http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/for_sale_sign.jpg)
Quote from: Rupert on March 14, 2010, 09:31:12 PMI hate to blame the carbs... It's the last place you look on these old things, but, I dunno, everything else seems to check out. And it doesn't happen every time I accelerate, just sometimes. Maybe a float is f-ed up, or maybe the valves are way off. But all of this stuff has been adjusted and checked in the last 50-100 miles, so I dunno. I think it's back to the mechanic, and then we'll see. Maybe the fuel pump is trying to die...
Bad/leaky floats are not an uncommon problem in cars of this age...the floats are pretty much always replaced when an SU or Stromburg carb is rebuilt professionally, even if there's no sign of leaking. They do eventually wear out, and small leaks can create big problems. Also, it takes a very gentle hand to get the adjustments right. Many times, it's just easier to have them professionally redone instead of doing it yourself. It's actually not even that expensive.
http://www.sucarburetors.com/
http://www.joecurto.com/
http://sucarbs.com/
I fully intend to have the SU's on the Triumph redone by one of these as part of the restoration.
Quote from: Rupert on March 14, 2010, 10:34:43 PMIt's British!
This is the only sensible fix:
(http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/for_sale_sign.jpg)
Why, you evil, evil man! I've found your problem...you've insulted your MG! Classic Brit cars have souls and personalities. You must
love them to make them work. And, once they find a home, they will not leave.
This car is starting to sound like an abusive relationship on wheels.
lol
Quote from: Secret Chimp on March 15, 2010, 11:11:23 AM
This car is starting to sound like an abusive relationship on wheels.
It so very much is. I'm not sure who abuses who, though. :lol:
Quote from: bing_oh on March 15, 2010, 07:13:53 AM
Why, you evil, evil man! I've found your problem...you've insulted your MG! Classic Brit cars have souls and personalities. You must love them to make them work. And, once they find a home, they will not leave.
I love it when it runs! It should know that by now, ya know? It's like training a dog, I guess, except this dog doesn't want to be trained. x_x
This morning I had an idea: The coil! It's a new coil, but that doesn't mean it's a good coil. I took it into work to use the better ohmmeter here to test it. This is a Lucas Sports coil, model DLB105. What I found:
Primary resistance is 3.0 ohms out of 3.0 ohms
Secondary resistance is 9.1 kohms out of 8.3 kohms
It's only a little out of spec, but it's only a little problem, so I'm going to replace it with a Pertronix coil (which is better for the Pertronix kit in there already, anyway). I hope this fixes it...
Quote from: Rupert on March 15, 2010, 01:54:52 PMI love it when it runs! It should know that by now, ya know? It's like training a dog, I guess, except this dog doesn't want to be trained. x_x
Yes, but Brit cars are designed to run only about half the time! And you're suppose to treat them like a woman...they're just about as moody. Calling her a dog will not get you that return lovin'... :nono:
It's behind her back, so she can't hear me. :lol:
Quote from: Rupert on March 15, 2010, 07:07:08 PMIt's behind her back, so she can't hear me. :lol:
Many a man has believed that about a woman, too... :mask:
Besides, Brit cars are psychic. We used to call my TR "Christine" after the Stephen King novel. I swear it had a mind of its own.
Quote from: bing_oh on March 15, 2010, 07:00:25 AM
Bad/leaky floats are not an uncommon problem in cars of this age...the floats are pretty much always replaced when an SU or Stromburg carb is rebuilt professionally, even if there's no sign of leaking. They do eventually wear out, and small leaks can create big problems. Also, it takes a very gentle hand to get the adjustments right. Many times, it's just easier to have them professionally redone instead of doing it yourself. It's actually not even that expensive.
http://www.sucarburetors.com/
http://www.joecurto.com/
http://sucarbs.com/
I fully intend to have the SU's on the Triumph redone by one of these as part of the restoration.
Yeah, I know about all of those guys. My guy can rebuild them for way less, though, so I'll do that if necessary. :ohyeah:
But you know how it is-- do carbs last. If it's not the coil, maybe it's a vacuum leak or an air intake problem. If not that, maybe the valves. If not that,
then maybe the carbs.
Quote from: bing_oh on March 15, 2010, 07:16:38 PM
Many a man has believed that about a woman, too... :mask:
Besides, Brit cars are psychic. We used to call my TR "Christine" after the Stephen King novel. I swear it had a mind of its own.
Yeah, well, I'll tell ya what, if I had a woman that treated me like the B treats me, I woulda broken it off long ago. :lol:
And another thing, those guys over at the MGB forum sure try to help, but sometimes they don't seem to comprehend the question. 0_o
Quote from: Rupert on March 16, 2010, 02:38:44 PM
And another thing, those guys over at the MGB forum sure try to help, but sometimes they don't seem to comprehend the question. 0_o
Miata.net is worse. They start asking you questions about your question that presume you haven't already done what actually led up to your question.
This guy saw the words "ignition" and "missing," and went right to the whole what-to-check-first spiel. He even mentioned ignition-before-carbs. Come on, I just wanted to know if anyone has a link to the specs of the coil I have (since the data I have is unsubstantiated and I can't find another source).
They don't, BTW. God. :facepalm:
Maybe next time, I'll just leave out the problem I'm trying to solve.
It's like, ask if anyone has seen a rubber washer gasket for the valve cover bolts cheaper then Moss, because yours leak, and they'll go into why it leaks, what else leaks, throw in jokes about all British cars "marking their territory yuk yuk," why you should check fifteen other things first, why the washer thing isn't your problem, which ones are the best, and never get to where they got them for cheaper than Moss. And this is after you explain why you know it leaks, what else leaks... You get the idea.
Yeah, that's exactly like Miata.net. For example, I say I've determined my trunk seal is the cause of my leak, first response is "Did you check the tail light and frankenstein bolt gaskets?" I checked your mother's ass, answer a question.
Here's a new one: I put the new Pertronix coil in there, and the ignition wire won't stay on the coil, because the hole in the coil is too big for the wire. This is so far beyond ridiculous, I'm not even laughing.
This car is like a little, evil devil-child that you keep trying to leave in the woods, but he shows back up at camp every night, looking cold and wet.
Or like the laziest lardass ever, who always finds another way to not have to do anything.
Fixed it.
What a humbug.
So... it runs?
Probably. It's too late to test it.
OK, more clues. I didn't fix it with the new coil and plugs (which I 2/3 suspected), but now I can at least add a symptom (I feel like a stupid and more sociable version of House).
Before,
Quote from: Rupert on March 14, 2010, 06:07:46 PM
It runs great, drives OK, until, hesitation/stumbling/missing on acceleration. I drove it around a bit, to try to figure out the problem. It will happen during acceleration only, and not necessarily as soon as I hit the gas. There is sometimes a weird plinky noise coming from what sounds like the driver's side. That's it.
was the problem while driving. Today, I went out for a test drive, but I'm smart enough to let the poor car warm up first. While it was warming up, I played with the throttle a little, and lo! the sound!
It's a plinky clicky clunky noise, and it's definitely coming from the carbs side of the engine, and I think it's coming right from the carbs. Upon lifting the throttle, sometimes, this sound happens. Now, it seems like it could be a backfire, but it's not very loud, and my experience with backfires is that they're really loud. Sort of like a hammer hitting a small nail. I checked the timing (yet again), and it's right on, so long as I remember what each mark means (which I'm about to check). The only other thing I can think of is the valve clearances. I guess it could be a vacuum leak, since those seem to cause every problem known to British cars. Further ideas?
Two valves were tight, one was a little loose, and now the engine is flooded because I tried to start it without the coil wire attached. :facepalm:
I'll start it later on and get back.
Nope, that didn't do it.
So is this noise coming from the motor itself or is there something else rattling around you think?
It sounds to me like you fixed everything already. I don't even know what wrong with it anymore.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 07:44:19 PM
It sounds to me like you fixed everything already. I don't even know what wrong with it anymore.
Is it more like a *clink* a *clank* a *ding* or a *dink* ...?
Quote from: R-inge on April 04, 2010, 07:43:47 PM
So is this noise coming from the motor itself or is there something else rattling around you think?
I don't think anything is literally loose and rattling around...
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 07:46:19 PM
Is it more like a *clink* a *clank* a *ding* or a *dink* ...?
It's like a hammer hitting a nail. Sort of a *pop* and a *clunk* at the same time; very metallic. It seems like a backfire, but it's not as loud as I think of backfires being.
Quote from: Rupert on April 04, 2010, 07:50:49 PM
It's like a hammer hitting a nail. Sort of a *pop* and a *clunk* at the same time; very metallic. It seems like a backfire, but it's not as loud as I think of backfires being.
How does it change with engine speed/load?
Any broken valve springs?
Quote from: R-inge on April 04, 2010, 08:00:49 PM
Any broken valve springs?
Not that I noticed when I checked the valves.
Quote from: Rupert on April 04, 2010, 08:06:34 PM
Not that I noticed when I checked the valves.
check ur barrings
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 07:57:27 PM
How does it change with engine speed/load?
It only shows up sometimes, as in, it's a single pop/etc. sound, it hesitates, and then it's fine. It only happens during acceleration, and usually moderate acceleration. It's not when I lift the throttle, but when it's depressed initially. It doesn't seem to matter what the engine speed is when I hit the gas, but I haven't tried it at high RPMs.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 08:10:14 PM
check ur barrings
Which bearings? The engine bearings? Oh god no.
Quote from: Rupert on April 04, 2010, 08:10:27 PM
It only shows up sometimes, as in, it's a single pop/etc. sound, it hesitates, and then it's fine. It only happens during acceleration, and usually moderate acceleration. It's not when I lift the throttle, but when it's depressed initially. It doesn't seem to matter what the engine speed is when I hit the gas, but I haven't tried it at high RPMs.
Oh, so it's not a constant pop pop pop pop that just gets louder under load... it's intermittent, and hesitating when this happens. That ain't ur barrrrings.
Check ur spark plugs? Maybe they're disintegrating from extreme detonation caused by an intermittent fueling problem? That's jumping to conclusions, but that's what I got for now.
Does it happen right away after startup, or only when the engine is warmed up?
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 08:14:36 PM
Oh, so it's not a constant pop pop pop pop that just gets louder under load... it's intermittent, and hesitating when this happens. That ain't ur barrrrings.
Check ur spark plugs? Maybe they're disintegrating from extreme detonation caused by an intermittent fueling problem? That's jumping to conclusions, but that's what I got for now.
Right, it only happens now and again, relatively. Like, every couple of minutes when driving and warm. Under the hood, when the car is cold, it happens more frequently, but not every time I pull the throttle cable. If it's totally cold, it might happen 1/3 to 1/2 of the time I pull the throttle cable in a consistent manner.
The plugs are new as of yesterday, and they are gapped right.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 08:18:24 PM
Does it happen right away after startup, or only when the engine is warmed up?
It happens more easily when cold. As it warms up, it happens less. When it's fully warm, it's more likely to happen while actually driving than in the driveway under the hood.
Try twisting the distributor around to see if you can make the noise change or go away.
The timing is to spec...
I'm just thinking it could be over advancing and making it ping... not sure how, maybe the weights are getting stuck or something. Anyway, if it's not ignition, or mechanical, then maybe it is running very lean intermittently, which could be many things like rust in the tank, a pinched line, clogged filter, and then there's the carbuertor
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 08:38:31 PM
I'm just thinking it could be over advancing and making it ping... not sure how, maybe the weights are getting stuck or something. Anyway, if it's not ignition, or mechanical, then maybe it is running very lean intermittently, which could be many things like rust in the tank, a pinched line, clogged filter, and then there's the carbuertor
Well, the dizzy is in generally poor shape, which is why I have the Pertronix in there, so I suppose it could be something in there. If it's any of that stuff, I'd rather have the mechanic deal with it. x_x
is it like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySn094OvHDk&feature=related
Here's a joke for ya:
Knock, knock.
Who's there?
Rod.
Rod who?
Rod through the block.
:lol:
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 08:47:41 PM
is it like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySn094OvHDk&feature=related
Sort of. It's just a single pop thing, and not constant like that, but that's kind of like the sound it makes. More metallic, maybe.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 08:55:08 PM
Here's a joke for ya:
Knock, knock.
Who's there?
Rod.
Rod who?
Rod through the block.
:lol:
Oh hell no.
Quote from: Rupert on April 04, 2010, 08:59:03 PM
Sort of. It's just a single pop thing, and not constant like that, but that's kind of like the sound it makes. More metallic, maybe.
MORE metallic than that?
That's bad. That's bad.
Find out where it is. Use a stick... or a screwdriver, put it on different locations and put your ear on it.
I don't think it's a rod.
I am out of ideas. Get a V8 :lol:
Like I said, it's
run run run [pull the throttle cable] run [pop] [hesitate] [accelerate] run run run run [pull the throttle cable] [accelerate] run run run run run and etc.
It's not regular.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on April 04, 2010, 09:12:53 PM
I am out of ideas. Get a V8 :lol:
Yeah, jeesh.
This sounds like a job for my mechanic.
Quote from: Rupert on April 04, 2010, 09:13:16 PM
Like I said, it's
run run run [pull the throttle cable] run [pop] [hesitate] [accelerate] run run run run [pull the throttle cable] [accelerate] run run run run run and etc.
It's not regular.
An intermittent metallic clank that causes or at least corresponds to hesitation under acceleration. Ok. I'm going with Ringe and saying broken valve spring because I can't think of anything else.
I can check again...
*sigh*
I'm going to say it.
This car sucks.
Only when it's not running right.
Oh, right, that's all times. :cry:
Make a video of this problem, please. I need to know more.
I don't have a video camera, or I would have long ago. :(
I have checked that the dashpots are full, that the timing marks are correct, that no valve springs are broken, that there's nothing rattling around the carbs, and that the rocker assembly is, in fact, bolted down. I have two hypotheticals at this point:
1. Vacuum advance on the distributor sucks. This is likely true, no matter what, because the distributor as a whole kind of sucks, which is why I put the Pertronix on it. But, would it cause this problem?
2. Vacuum leak. There might be one where there is a crack in the heat shield that the carbs mount to that goes just under the carb mounting block thing. Or not; there could be one in many places on this car. But, would it cause this problem?
Either way, I hope I can remember to call the mechanic tomorrow and make an appointment.
FFFRRRNNNGGGG
I talked to the mechanic today, and he thought that the vacuum leak idea was about right. Okay, great, I can fix that with a new gasket and heat shield, no problem. I went over to my parent's house to pick the car up and drive it back to my place. Went to start it; nothing. Tried to jump it, and all I got was a rapid click. Yeah, solenoid or something has died. Other electronics seem to work.
I swear (daily, at this car), the little fucker is just lazy.
I am missing the connection between metallic clanging and a vacuum leak.
Oh, and it sounds like your battery cables are loose or shitty.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on May 12, 2010, 09:28:28 PM
I am missing the connection between metallic clanging and a vacuum leak.
Too lean. It seems to fit the sound. Actually, I can't remember the sound, exactly, so I dunno. I'm sure I didn't describe it perfectly. It's not a common one. I'm willing to give it a shot, since it's pretty cheap, and I can do it in an hour. I mean, I could if the car ran to begin with...
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on May 12, 2010, 09:31:44 PM
Oh, and it sounds like your battery cables are loose or shitty.
I tightened the neg cable, but I guess it could be shitty. What's the deal with the clicking? Is that the solenoid engaging? Keep in mind that it didn't turn over with the jumper cables attached, either. :huh:
Quote from: Rupert on May 12, 2010, 09:46:52 PM
I tightened the neg cable, but I guess it could be shitty. What's the deal with the clicking? Is that the solenoid engaging? Keep in mind that it didn't turn over with the jumper cables attached, either. :huh:
Clicking almost always means there is not enough power getting to the starter. If you jump started it at the battery and it still clicked, it's probably a bad connection.
Quote from: Rupert on May 12, 2010, 09:45:20 PM
Too lean. It seems to fit the sound. Actually, I can't remember the sound, exactly, so I dunno. I'm sure I didn't describe it perfectly. It's not a common one. I'm willing to give it a shot, since it's pretty cheap, and I can do it in an hour. I mean, I could if the car ran to begin with...
Must be a huge fucking leak.
:huh: Probably. It's a sensitive car.
Okay, I will do the thing with the cleaning of the battery terminals and ground tomorrow. But If I have to pull the goddamn starter...
I must have missed the part where you tossed out that silly refrigerator engine and fitted a 3.5 Rover V8, because all good MG ownwers would do such a thing.
Quote from: omicron on May 13, 2010, 11:43:25 AM
I must have missed the part where you tossed out that silly refrigerator engine and fitted a 3.5 Rover V8, because all good MG ownwers would do such a thing.
+1
This would solve all your engine problems.
(http://mgcc.com.au/mgc-v8/MG-rv8.jpg)
It's not like it hasn't been done before, either.
Well, it started. I cleaned the contacts, and then jumped it again, and it started fine. Actually, it ran and drove fine, too. I think it's the warm weather, but I'm gonna fix the vacuum leak, anyway. And wash it; jeebus.
Quote from: omicron on May 13, 2010, 11:43:25 AM
I must have missed the part where you tossed out that silly refrigerator engine and fitted a 3.5 Rover V8, because all good MG ownwers would do such a thing.
Well, thanks at least for not suggesting a Weber...
:lol:
Quote from: the Teuton on May 13, 2010, 09:54:52 PM
(http://mgcc.com.au/mgc-v8/MG-rv8.jpg)
It's not like it hasn't been done before, either.
Ugh, at least find a picture of a custom job, or even a factory V8...
Nope, not fixed by miracles. It runs great, except for the clink/pop/hammer/whatever sound and hesitation. It's only when I accelerate from a cruising speed (i.e. not from a stop).
WAIT!!! Maybe the metallic sound is the heat shield deforming! There's a crack in the heat shield that goes between the carb mounts and the header, and the crack actually goes behind one of the carb mounts, which is what I suspect is causing the suspected vacuum leak. So, the hesitation is due to a lean condition caused by the vacuum leak, and the weird sound is caused by the heat shield deforming at the crack due to pressure changes (somehow)! Man, I totally buy this theory; I hope it's right!
A new heat shield and gaskets are on the way.
Quote from: Rupert on May 13, 2010, 10:02:47 PM
Ugh, at least find a picture of a custom job, or even a factory V8...
Well, it IS a factory V8. the RV8 was a cool, limited edition car.
On mine, I'm not going to put a V8 in it. I'm looking into more of a late model japanese engine/transmission.
THIS would really rock:
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/KyleBingham/MGB-SR20DET-A.jpg)
:wub:
I remember seeing a couple of MGC's in California. There was just something very sexy about a MGB with a bulge on the bonnet.
Quote from: ChrisV on May 19, 2010, 08:23:20 AM
Well, it IS a factory V8. the RV8 was a cool, limited edition car.
On mine, I'm not going to put a V8 in it. I'm looking into more of a late model japanese engine/transmission.
THIS would really rock:
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/KyleBingham/MGB-SR20DET-A.jpg)
Yeah, but I don't like the RV8. It was too little too late, IMO. It's kind of the same idea as taking a 1993 Alfa Spider, smoothing the lines, and calling it a new car today.
Are you thinking about Nissan parts, primarily? It seems like that's the place most MG people turn to when they go with Japanese power.
The heat shield came today, and I may try to get it on tomorrow, but probably not.
AARRRGGGHHHH!!!
Nope, that wasn't it.
I tried to enrichen the carbs a bit, but it was dark by then, and I couldn't get the screws to turn (o_0). I'll try to get it to the mechanic this week...
Enrichening the carbs only fucked with the idle... I might do a more comprehensive tuning, but, jeez, I dunno, again. Square fucking two.
(http://www.mgcars.org.uk/wdmgcc/members%20cars/Doug%20Pohlod%20Mgb.jpg)
+
(http://www.carpages.co.uk/mg_rover/mg_rover_images/mg_rover_v8_engines_11_08_05.jpg)
=
(http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~410-f08/lectures/L33a_P4/happycat.jpg)
Sorry, I don't have wire wheels.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_sbVtJzIRm-8/SwbIyMPH1eI/AAAAAAAABLo/bhCQ0k6UhEI/s800/sad-cat-sad-funny-animals-kitty-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D1%82-animals_large.jpg)
Three cheers for a new crate engine and Edelbrock carb.
Quote from: hotrodalex on June 02, 2010, 06:07:38 PM
Three cheers for a new crate engine and Edelbrock carb.
Hip Hip!
Never!
What about mediocre gas? I think there's about 15% ethanol in there now, and I haven't put any in since last September or so...
Quote from: Rupert on July 05, 2010, 03:32:11 PM
What about mediocre gas? I think there's about 15% ethanol in there now, and I haven't put any in since last September or so...
Without Sta-Bil or whatever it might be crappy by now.
Hmph, but it was doing this, then, too.
Wait, what? I fixed it?
I FIXED IT!!!!
Holy fuck, I fixed it!
It was, after all that, the timing. It was about 10 degrees retarded, because I was a dumbass and didn't set it with the vacuum advance disconnected. :facepalm: I had to reset the carbs, then set the timing, and then re-reset the carbs. Now it runs fine, other than the battery being mostly drained. I will try to start it cold tomorrow.
Good for you!
Now sell it quick :evildude:
$4200!? That's three times what I'd pay.
I don't give a shit what you'd pay. ;)
Reset the whats and set the whose?
Timing; carburetors. ;)
I got the battery charged today, and it should be fine. Then I drove it around a bit, and, aside from some initial missing when cold, it drives great!
Good job!
Thanks!
I've been driving it all week, and it's been fine. It's grouchy when cold, but whatev.
Quote from: Rupert on July 06, 2010, 01:28:45 AM
It was about 10 degrees retarded
You're 10 degrees retarded!
I saw an MGB three days ago, and found blowing raspberries at the world characterization of that engine to be totally accurate.
Yes, I am, apparently... :lol:
It's a perfect analogy.
It is for sale. (http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/1868779661.html)
"Fine diver"? I'm sure it goes off cliffs just fine.
But how does it drive?
Ha, nice.
Fixing...
Flexible on the price = the listing price is way more than I think it?s worth
Eh, maybe. I got rid of that and lowered the price some, though. I won't get $3800 for it...
I still have the car-- kind of hard to sell a convertible in the fall, dontcha know. Someone made an offer for $2000 today, and I'm tempted. I could get it off my insurance, out of my garage, and stop thinking about it. I paid $2000, and then put in a bunch, so I was hoping to recoup some of that. I think I could get $25-3000 in the spring.
What doth y'all thinketh?
Quote from: Rupert on October 09, 2010, 04:32:22 PM
I still have the car-- kind of hard to sell a convertible in the fall, dontcha know. Someone made an offer for $2000 today, and I'm tempted. I could get it off my insurance, out of my garage, and stop thinking about it. I paid $2000, and then put in a bunch, so I was hoping to recoup some of that. I think I could get $25-3000 in the spring.
What doth y'all thinketh?
My genuine question is if it will still run as well in the spring as it does now. If you let it sit, stuff mightvarnish and get goofed, if you drive it, stuff can still get goofed because it's an MG :P I'd sell it now to avoid any more money you may have to throw at it later to keep it running months from now.
Eh, driving it a little every couple of weeks should prevent any problems.
Quote from: Rupert on October 09, 2010, 04:46:53 PM
Eh, driving it a little every couple of weeks should prevent any problems.
But something new could go wrong, no? A bird in the hand...
But imagine what you could do with $2000 on a 944 RIGHT NOW.
Quote from: ifcar on October 09, 2010, 04:48:11 PM
But something new could go wrong, no? A bird in the hand...
It could, but I don't think that's likely. It would probably get less than 100 miles between now-ish and March.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 09, 2010, 04:48:36 PM
But imagine what you could do with $2000 on a 944 RIGHT NOW.
Yeah, that's the kind of argument that gains ground with me. :lol:
Actually, it would be better in my bank account. x_x
Alternate joke is, yeah, an oil change.
:lol:
Bazinga, Bilsteins
http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bilstein_escort_cup_944-xdo.htm
Quote from: Rupert on October 09, 2010, 04:32:22 PM
I still have the car-- kind of hard to sell a convertible in the fall, dontcha know. Someone made an offer for $2000 today, and I'm tempted. I could get it off my insurance, out of my garage, and stop thinking about it. I paid $2000, and then put in a bunch, so I was hoping to recoup some of that. I think I could get $25-3000 in the spring.
What doth y'all thinketh?
List it for $3000 now and see what happens?
Quote from: BimmerM3 on October 09, 2010, 10:12:44 PM
List it for $3000 now and see what happens?
Been there, done that.
If you can store the car indoors, wait for spring, if not, try to haggle the price up a little, then sell it.
Quote from: Secret Chimp on October 09, 2010, 05:49:33 PM
Bazinga, Bilsteins
http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bilstein_escort_cup_944-xdo.htm
:wub:
But first, brakes, fog lights and wiring upgrades, cruise control, AC, various interior, stereo...
Honestly, real mods are at the bottom of the list of optional things (er, brakes aren't optional, but it's only pads), and this car needs to remain awesome for long-distance driving, so I don't really want to make it stiffer/lower/etc.
At least there isn't anything on the list of non-optional things. :lol:
Quote from: mzziaz on October 10, 2010, 12:50:19 AM
If you can store the car indoors, wait for spring, if not, try to haggle the price up a little, then sell it.
It's in my little garage, but I'd like to put the 944 in there when it snows...
I think I will try to get her to go up to $23-400, but I'll probably sell for $2000 if it comes down to it.
How much will you spend in insurance between now and the spring?
I will take it off insurance. Driving it around the block shouldn't be a problem...
But if not, like, $150.
I would take the $2000 now while the US dollar is still worth something. :lol:
I wasn't planning on spending it in another country, eh?
:lol:
Quote from: Rupert on October 10, 2010, 01:44:06 AM
I wasn't planning on spending it in another country, eh?
:lol:
Yeah, but you can at least spend it now while you guys can still buy stuff cheap.
The last guy came to look at it today. I think he's interested, and I can probably get $2400 or better from him. He's supposed to call by tomorrow with an answer; we'll see what happens.
He drove over in a 300D Turbodiesel, which is always a good sign. Also, he seemed perfectly OK with the various quirks of the MG. :lol:
I really can't imagine how the MGB ended up on this list.
http://jalopnik.com/5681557/ten-nightmare-cars-you-cant-resist/gallery/
Oh, and fancy that, so did the 944!
Quote from: the Teuton on November 04, 2010, 07:33:06 PM
I really can't imagine how the MGB ended up on this list.
http://jalopnik.com/5681557/ten-nightmare-cars-you-cant-resist/gallery/
I will have number 3 one day. Even if it won't run and just looks good at my house.
That's a bullshit list.
Quote from: Rupert on November 04, 2010, 08:06:52 PM
That's a bullshit list.
Aren't most of them on the Jalop?
Jalopnik is the MSNBC of car blogs.
It doesn't change the fact that you're a masochist when it comes to car buying.
No, I'm an idiot when it comes to car fixing. ;)
The 944 has been perfect.
You can probably get more money for it if you wait to sell it in the spring.
Quote from: hotrodalex on November 15, 2010, 03:16:07 PM
You can probably get more money for it if you wait to sell it in the spring.
Hold on. So you're saying that if I wait until spring to sell it, I might get more money? Why didn't I think of that?! ;)
Quote from: Rupert on October 09, 2010, 04:32:22 PM
I still have the car-- kind of hard to sell a convertible in the fall, dontcha know. Someone made an offer for $2000 today, and I'm tempted. I could get it off my insurance, out of my garage, and stop thinking about it. I paid $2000, and then put in a bunch, so I was hoping to recoup some of that. I think I could get $25-3000 in the spring.
What doth y'all thinketh?
Oh, right.
:lol:
I'm moving across town in a month or two, so it's time to get rid of the MG. I've been emailing people that said that they might be interested in the spring, and it looks like I've got a bite. It's the $2000 lady, and I even told her she could have it for $1900 so I could avoid the hassle of craigslist tire kickers. She's coming by tomorrow maybe, so I had to dust the car off (literally-- carpentry is dusty), check the fluids, pull the battery minder off, and get it ready once again. Still runs like a top, once it's warmed up a bit. Yay!
Of course, driving it around to put air in the tires, I just thought, "what if I don't sell it?" :lol: Then again, there was a $2000 RX-7 locally the other day...
Ha-HA! Sold! To the rich guy with a 911 for $2100! Take that, haters!
Quote from: Rupert on March 12, 2011, 06:15:32 PM
Ha-HA! Sold! To the rich guy with a 911 for $2100! Take that, haters!
Profit???????
Phase 1: Buy MG
Phase 2:
Phase 3: Profit!
Overall, no profit, but I did sell it for more than I bought it for.
This is awesome. As cool as that car was, I am very happy to have garage space to either park a Porsche or use for projects. I will say, though, that I will miss the sound.