Yes, and I will probably run more camber up front. I just said otherwise to trigger you, and it worked I have to raise the rear a hair anyway so that will probably get me in the ballpark.

Front def rubs but it's at like full compression. So a hair more camber up front should do it. I've run aggressive camber in the past w/o too much of an issue with tire wear.

Tire wear is more of a camber + toe (dynamically loaded)  issue then just camber

Quote from: 12,000 RPM on September 10, 2017, 08:13:05 PM
I'm a tuner boi, not ashamed.

I'm not a huge fan of how wide they look outside the fenders, but I'm diggin the new sig pic anyway.

Not a G fan, but it looks pretty good.  Gotta do something about that grille though. A bit vapid looking.

Sporty, what are your spring rates again? Any concerns of rubbing in the back when loaded with people and things?

9k/8k. Definitely a concern. I think the rear perches are at max height too. I'm going to try a longer 9k (well 500lb) spring out back. Raising the rear will also give me some camber back. Stance is slightly boaty

How does it ride with those rates? From your sig pic the stance looks really good.

I actually didn't lower my wagon as much as I wanted to, especially in the rear, just so I wouldn't rub. Combined with my less aggressive fitment I can load up the car as much as I want and not rub, which is nice.

It actually rides pretty nicely. It can get busy on bad pavement but for the most part it's a lot more comfortable than it looks. I rarely have rear passengers so rubbing isn't that big of a concern, but I do want to get subs eventually and the rear is already too low. This kit is really for coupes and the 370Z so I'm not surprised that its sitting low. But so far so good, eve with the new wheels. Roads are good here though.

Do your coilovers not have independent height and preload adjustment? You have to set the ride height through preload? If they do have independent adjustment, how would a longer spring help raise the rear?

You could get longer studs and tophat spacers between the body and top hat. People do that all the time for Subaru wagons (saggy butt spacers) when they put sedan coilovers on the heavier wagon. I think people go full ghetto and just make them out of cutting boards or other similar materials (Delrin?).

These are cheapo, so ride height and preload are all one bag. The rear suspension has the shock and coil separate, so I don't know that a top hat spacer for the spring even exist. Rear could be a hair stiffer anyway so I might as well get new springs.

It does look like they have coil spring spacers though which would be cheaper. But I'd be afraid of them making the back squishy. I have to check and see if I have any more height on the perch first though.

Huh, I didn't realize they had separate coil and spring (so you don't have coilovers, then, at least in the back).

I guess I take back everything I just said.

How does one adjust preload independently of ride height?

Quote from: MX793 on September 13, 2017, 10:43:28 AM
How does one adjust preload independently of ride height?

The shock body is threaded, with the spring on a perch (for pre load) and then a threaded.... something that the shock sits in and connects to the shock mount on the LCA/knuckle.

^Yeah, that's what I have. You want to set your preload first before messing with ride height though since changing the preload will still change your ride height, but at least with the lower threaded mount you can adjust that to compensate for ride height.

I don't even like messing with preload. I would hope that the manufacturer would send it out at the right height at all corners to enable the shock to always be in its optimal working range. That is exactly why I don't like coilovers like mine.

I just set my preload to zero. I don't know enough about preload and its effects to really mess with it, and on a street car I don't really care.

Having a tiny bit of preload is good.

Mine don't have a separate adjustment and it's a PITA to raise the car, especially up front. You're stuck having to turn the spring perch against 650lbs of pressure.

I don't know what sorcery they conjured, but adjusting the front up and down is pretty easy.

Going to go on record and say I should have got 8.5s all around instead of the 9.5s. It does look pretty effing mean though JFC.

Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 13, 2017, 11:06:57 AM
Having a tiny bit of preload is good.

Mine don't have a separate adjustment and it's a PITA to raise the car, especially up front. You're stuck having to turn the spring perch against 650lbs of pressure.

Just use spring compressors to take the tension off the perches.

Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 13, 2017, 11:06:57 AM
Having a tiny bit of preload is good.

Mine don't have a separate adjustment and it's a PITA to raise the car, especially up front. You're stuck having to turn the spring perch against 650lbs of pressure.

You have 650 lbs of preload?  Wow.

Quote from: MrH on September 13, 2017, 02:08:50 PM
You have 650 lbs of preload?  Wow.

Well, it depends on how compressed the spring is. But they're 650 lb/in springs.

Quote from: CaminoRacer on September 13, 2017, 02:11:17 PM
Well, it depends on how compressed the spring is. But they're 650 lb/in springs.

Yeah, those are beefy springs.  An inch of preload on springs that big is scary business   I wouldn't want to work on that.

Apparently we had a tech in Germany working on a big Mercedes SUV.  Those have massive, beefy springs.  It slipped out of the fingers on the spring compressor and flew out.  Punched a hole in a garage door and flew into the field next door.

I was always super careful after hearing that story.

 

That is what spring compressors are for. Thankfully Nissan designed the suspension in a way where you could pop the springs out back and front without having to compress them on the car.

Quote from: 12,000 RPM on September 13, 2017, 04:21:10 PM
That is what spring compressors are for. Thankfully Nissan designed the suspension in a way where you could pop the springs out back and front without having to compress them on the car.

Heh, that is convenient. I was helping my friend install lowering springs on his E30, and he was about to take the rear control arms off to replace the springs. I just came over, stood on the hub, popped the spring out and put the new one in. Took less than 10 minutes for both sides. He probably would have been struggling with that for hours.

Quote from: 12,000 RPM on September 13, 2017, 04:21:10 PM
That is what spring compressors are for. Thankfully Nissan designed the suspension in a way where you could pop the springs out back and front without having to compress them on the car.

I wouldn't bet on your aftermarket coilovers being able to do that

Quote from: r0tor on September 13, 2017, 06:56:16 PM
I wouldn't bet on your aftermarket coilovers being able to do that

Why... they are way shorter than the stock springs÷shocks

Aftermarket coilovers aren't designed for the same amount of wheel travel and usually have different shock and spring lengths and obviously different spring rates.  The end system just works different.

... Not saying on a threaded body coilovers you can't spend half a day spinning the perch all the way down to decompress the springs. ..

These coilovers don't need to be compressed to be removed. Keep in mind I'm set at like the lower third of the perch as is so there's already less preload on the shock.

Quote from: 12,000 RPM on September 13, 2017, 12:59:21 PM

Looks gooooood.