Un-frigging-believable..... New car purchase woes

Started by MX793, November 03, 2015, 09:59:07 PM

MX793

I don't think it's any secret that I have a new car on order.  My intent was to keep it a secret until I had taken possession and post some pics, but at the rate things are going I may not get the car at all.  So, to spoil the surprise, I ordered a 2016 Mustang GT in Guard Green with the Performance Pack.  A timeline of events:

August 1st - Stopped at the dealership to order the car.  After spec'ing out what I wanted, I was told that they wouldn't be able to actually put the order into the system until Monday  8/3 (not sure why) and that it would be the standard 8-12 weeks for delivery.  They said they had an allocation for a 2016 GT that they hadn't put in for, so it was possible it would be closer to 8 weeks than 12.  My last Mustang only took 8 weeks, so I was hopeful/optimistic that this would be similar and I'd get potentially 6-8 weeks of enjoyment out of it before having to put it away for the season depending on when winter arrives.  Should be enough time to at least get it through the break in period.

August 29th - Roughly 4 weeks from the order date, checked in to see if they had any info on the build progress (build date, delivery date, etc).  Was told that it hadn't been scheduled yet, but they'd call back in a week since it should be showing up in the build queue very shortly.

September 12th - 6 weeks in, I followed up with the dealer again and they told me that the build date had been scheduled for 9/28 with an estimated delivery of the 3rd week of October (which would have been 11 weeks from order date).  I wasn't thrilled by this news since it meant I'd have only a few, 2-4, weeks before the weather turned and I'd have to store the car for the winter, but this dealer is pretty small so they probably don't get a lot of pull for priority.

October 17th - I call the dealer to see if they have a firm delivery date.  My salesman wasn't there, but the sales manager I spoke with said "it will be here next week".  At roughly the same time, I came across some scuttlebutt on one of the Mustang boards that a bunch of Mustangs built in late September (my build week and the week before) were put on hold due to a seatbelt issue and that none of the dealers had any clue this was going on.  In the following couple days, more details emerge and all of the recall announcements noted that the parts to fix the cars wouldn't be available until Nov 30.  Seeing as it's not uncommon for it to be snowing here by then and the Performance Pack tires aren't rated for use below 40F (in fact, Pirelli states that they will not warranty tread cracks caused by operating at temperatures below 45), I start to get a bit nervous.

October 23rd - I call again to ask when my car will be in.  I'm told "oh, there was some delay due to a shortage of rail cars, but it's moving now and will be here next week".

October 31st - Still no car, I call the dealer again and ask if my car was affected by the seatbelt recall.  They tell me it wasn't part of the recall, and is currently sitting in a rail yard in Buffalo awaiting a truck and it will arrive "Monday or Tuesday".

November 3 (Today) - I get a call this afternoon that my car had finally arrived.  Before I could jump for joy, my salesman dropped a bomb on me...  It was damaged in transit.  The trunk lid is apparently dented pretty badly, presumably when being unloaded from the rail car since the truck driver noted it was already damaged when he picked it up.  As though it would somehow put me at ease, I was assured that a new trunk lid is on order from Ford and the dealership's body shop will paint it and install it, but it'll be another 2 weeks, give or take to get parts and make the repair.

At this point, I'm extremely disappointed and very tempted to just walk away from the whole thing.  I was already aggravated by the slow build and delivery process.  Now I've got questions nagging in the back of my mind regarding the damage: 

-What if their body shop does a lousy job matching the paint with the rest of the car? 

-Is there any additional, hidden damage from whatever dented the trunk?  Do I even want to risk it?  I intend to ask to see the original, damaged, trunk lid so I can get some idea of how damaged it was, but part of me wonders if I shouldn't just tell them right now that I refuse to accept anything less than a factory-fresh car.

-Will this repair mean that the trunk won't be covered by the factory paint/corrosion warranty?  If it's not, am I still willing to accept it?  Would I be willing to accept it if they offered to reduce the price?  If so, how much?

Obviously, I can refuse the car if I'm not satisfied with the quality of the repair, but then I'd have to wait another 8-12 weeks (or more, if this experience repeats itself) for another new car to be built, and by then we'll be in the thick of winter.  That's not going to fly because I refuse to accept delivery of a car, especially one with hi-po summer tires, when there's snow and salt on the ground.  That means waiting until the end of winter to order another car so I'll have it by Spring.  I'm not going to drive the car in the winter anyway, so it's not like I'll miss it, but that prospect still doesn't sit well with me.  I'd feel much better having it before winter, knowing that I'll be able to enjoy it the moment spring hits.  There's also the odd chance that, if I order in February, it actually shows up early and there will still be snow and salt on roads and I'll have no way to get it home (and if the dealer keeps it until I am will to take delivery, it will certainly not be kept warm and dry inside).
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

giant_mtb

#1
For a brand new car, I'm sorry, but nothing beats a factory paint job as far as longevity goes. Especially in a northern climate. Eeeeeeeeek.

Cookie Monster

Dang man, that blows. I'd probably just walk away at this point. I certainly wouldn't want a car with body work when it's brand new.
RWD > FWD
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Quote from: 68_427 on November 27, 2016, 07:43:14 AM
Or order from fortune auto and when lyft rider asks why your car feels bumpy you can show them the dyno curve
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2 4 R

Rupert

Get pics of the trunk lid? They could have a different idea of pretty badly dented than you and it might be just some dings (unlikely). Honestly, I would be pretty hesitant to accept a new special ordered car that already needed to have body repairs.
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GoCougs

Wow, sweet ride but sucky events. You think that in dealing with such big $$$ car dealers would have more of their act together but mostly it's little different than dealing with the part time checkout girl at the 7-11.

No matter what they say they'd never convince me their pant job will wear or be as durable as the factory finish. I'd negotiate for a heavy discount - like $2,500 or more. Outside that I probably wouldn't take accept it.

MX793

#5
Quote from: Rupert on November 03, 2015, 10:06:55 PM
Get pics of the trunk lid? They could have a different idea of pretty badly dented than you and it might be just some dings (unlikely). Honestly, I would be pretty hesitant to accept a new special ordered car that already needed to have body repairs.

I was told that it wasn't mangled, just dented, and that it appeared that somebody backed into something with it at low speed; probably when unloading it from the rail car.  I was told it was bad enough that it required a new trunk lid (I take that to mean beyond what PDR could fix).  If I can get out of work before 7, I may stop by and ask to see it tomorrow night.  That would at least give me some indication of how hard a hit it took and how likely additional damage might be.

It won't be driven in the winter (stored indoors in a semi-heated garage), so it won't be exposed to the full brunt of a northern climate.  That said, it won't be a factory paint job.  I have zero experience with non-factory paint to know just how well it will hold up.  I know some people that do paint and body work (my uncle does it semi-professionally), I'll have to ask for their opinions.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

Xer0

Wow, what a sucky set of events man.  But, maybe this is some sort of divine intervention and Ford will introduce some serious upgrades next year to the Mustang in response to the 'Maro like they did in 2011 and you'll be able to get that one. 


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280Z Turbo

It probably won't make any perceptible difference as far as fit, finish and corrosion resistance goes. It's also a relatively small part of the car, so even if the paint flakes off and the trunk rusts away, it would only affect a bolt-on part of the body.

The big question is can they get it to match. I wouldn't want them fucking with the rest of the factory paint to make it match.

MX793

Quote from: Xer0 on November 03, 2015, 10:39:36 PM
Wow, what a sucky set of events man.  But, maybe this is some sort of divine intervention and Ford will introduce some serious upgrades next year to the Mustang in response to the 'Maro like they did in 2011 and you'll be able to get that one. 


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That's also lurking in the back of my mind.  However, if the production schedule for MY17 is like MY16, they won't start building until August and dealer stock orders will take precedence over customer orders, so I will again find myself in a situation where I may not get the car until just before winter.  Also, mine needs tires if I'm to drive it another year.  So I'll have to drop another $800 into it for tires, plus I'll lose another year's worth of depreciation value on my trade, probably a grand.  So now I'm financially down close to $1900...
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

giant_mtb

Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 03, 2015, 10:49:55 PM
It probably won't make any perceptible difference as far as fit, finish and corrosion resistance goes. It's also a relatively small part of the car, so even if the paint flakes off and the trunk rusts away, it would only affect a bolt-on part of the body.

The big question is can they get it to match. I wouldn't want them fucking with the rest of the factory paint to make it match.

Nah, man. The rear of a car is one of the spots where road spray (and salt) really congregates.  Rail dust, too. Rear hatches and trunks are notorious for being early corrosion areas. IME. Detailing. In the north.

Rich

I wouldn't accept it, the driving season is gone. 

I'd order early March.  By the time the car comes the afternoon temps will be over freezing and you can get it home.  By early March some info about the 2017's should be out so you can decide if you want to wait for the new model year. 

If you are thinking about accepting the car, I'd ask to see it before and inspect every inch of the paint.
2003 Mazda Miata 5MT; 2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 4AT

280Z Turbo

Quote from: giant_mtb on November 03, 2015, 10:54:08 PM
Nah, man. The rear of a car is one of the spots where road spray (and salt) really congregates.  Rail dust, too. Rear hatches and trunks are notorious for being early corrosion areas. IME. Detailing. In the north.

What difference does that make in this situation?

giant_mtb

#12
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on November 03, 2015, 11:01:02 PM
What difference does that make in this situation?

The part where you said it won't make any difference in finish and corrosion resistance...?

Would you rather get 5+ solid years out of the factory finish or maybe 3 years out of a body shop finish...?

Rich

#13
Quote from: MX793 on November 03, 2015, 10:53:39 PM
That's also lurking in the back of my mind.  However, if the production schedule for MY17 is like MY16, they won't start building until August and dealer stock orders will take precedence over customer orders, so I will again find myself in a situation where I may not get the car until just before winter.  Also, mine needs tires if I'm to drive it another year.  So I'll have to drop another $800 into it for tires, plus I'll lose another year's worth of depreciation value on my trade, probably a grand.  So now I'm financially down close to $1900...

Ford started the build on the 2011's in March/April 2010.

I wonder if they'll do the same thing as that timeframe.  New body style in MY 2010, updated engine in MY 2011.  New body style in MY 2015, DI (or improvements added from experience with the 350) added to 5.0 in MY 2017?
2003 Mazda Miata 5MT; 2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 4AT

MX793

Quote from: HotRodPilot on November 03, 2015, 11:00:53 PM
I wouldn't accept it, the driving season is gone. 

I'd order early March.  By the time the car comes the afternoon temps will be over freezing and you can get it home.  By early March some info about the 2017's should be out so you can decide if you want to wait for the new model year. 

If you are thinking about accepting the car, I'd ask to see it before and inspect every inch of the paint.

I absolutely plan to look it over very thoroughly before signing the paperwork.  That is, unless I refuse to accept it outright on account of it not being factory fresh, regardless of how good the repair is.

I hesitate to order in March because if it's another 11-12 week turn, I start losing out on autocrosses (we usually start last weekend of April or first in May).  My original plan before it came unraveled was to get the car in the fall, get through the break in miles before winter, then be ready for autocross in the spring.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

MX793

Quote from: HotRodPilot on November 03, 2015, 11:09:26 PM
Ford started the build on the 2011's in March/April 2010.

I wonder if they'll do the same thing as that timeframe.  New body style in MY 2010, updated engine in MY 2011.  New body style in MY 2015, DI (or improvements added from experience with the 350) added to 5.0 in MY 2017?

Ford had originally planned to include the new powertrain as part of the 2010 update, but powertrain development fell behind and wasn't ready by the time they had to start MY10 production.  The new powertrains were not a quick response to the Camaro.  MY10 was basically a gapfiller model year that ran shorter than normal, and MY11 was basically MY10.5, if they still did half years.  I don't see that repeating for MY17.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

Raza

That sucks so hard, man. I'd cancel and wait until the Spring. I have no advice about any of your concerns about paint or whatever, though. Sorry.
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AutobahnSHO

I would wait, but that sucks.

On the other hand , good paint should last as long as factory , depending what's on the trunk replacement. (Primer? Different color?
Will

12,000 RPM

That blows. One thing that complicates it is I feel like prices and dealer confidence will be up in the spring. I would wait if they will honor the negotiated price.

Or get an M235i :evildude:
Protecctor of the Atmospheric Engine #TheyLiedToUs

MX793

#19
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on November 04, 2015, 04:33:34 AM
That blows. One thing that complicates it is I feel like prices and dealer confidence will be up in the spring. I would wait if they will honor the negotiated price.

Or get an M235i :evildude:

I have X plan, the only negotiation was the value of my trade.  Of course, that's a fair point that prices may increase (X plan fluctuates even though MSRP doesn't).  Prices could also decrease if Ford offers larger rebates or incentives 5-6 months from now.

M235 is way outside of my budget.  5 figures more than what I ordered.  A 228i with no options ends up being about the same as what I ordered.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

MX793

Quote from: AutobahnSHO on November 04, 2015, 04:20:14 AM
I would wait, but that sucks.

On the other hand , good paint should last as long as factory , depending what's on the trunk replacement. (Primer? Different color?

I believe factory replacement body panels come with just primer.
Needs more Jiggawatts

2016 Ford Mustang GTPP / 2011 Toyota Rav4 Base AWD / 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS
1992 Nissan 240SX Fastback / 2004 Mazda Mazda3s / 2011 Ford Mustang V6 Premium / 2007 Suzuki GSF1250SA Bandit / 2006 VW Jetta 2.5

Eye of the Tiger

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veeman

Not that it has anything to do with your decision, but what would happen to the car if you refuse to buy it?  Can the dealer put it on the lot as a new car?  If that were the case, then some of the new cars people buy on the lot have replaced body panels...

Just wondering. 

SJ_GTI

That sucks. Personally I would lean toward not taking the car and just reordering come February(ish).

That being said, when my car got damaged they had to replace/repaint the front drivers side fender, the hood, and the front bumper. I am not an expert of course, but to this day I cannot see a difference in the color (and my car's color is not that common). I will say my hood has had a few chips, but I can't say if that is because of the paint or simply because the hood is the part of the car that takes the most abuse (mainly from highway debris).

SJ_GTI

Quote from: veeman on November 04, 2015, 06:14:09 AM
Not that it has anything to do with your decision, but what would happen to the car if you refuse to buy it?  Can the dealer put it on the lot as a new car?  If that were the case, then some of the new cars people buy on the lot have replaced body panels...

Just wondering.

Again, not an expert, but my understanding is that it is pretty common for dealers to have to fix little knicks and dings before putting them out on the lot. Replacing a whole part (like a trunk) is probably rare.

Soup DeVille

Quote from: veeman on November 04, 2015, 06:14:09 AM
Not that it has anything to do with your decision, but what would happen to the car if you refuse to buy it?  Can the dealer put it on the lot as a new car?  If that were the case, then some of the new cars people buy on the lot have replaced body panels...

Just wondering. 

New cars get replaced body panels all the time; even complete paint jobs. Ever seen a "scratch and dent" sale at a dealership for slightly damaged new cars? Nope

Because they're not discounting those, they're fixing them.

However, if one orders a car, one likely has the option to refuse a damaged one
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

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Soup DeVille

Quote from: MX793 on November 04, 2015, 04:56:05 AM
I believe factory replacement body panels come with just primer.

In general yes; in this case one might be able to insist on a factory painted piece though; what will happen is that trunk will get robbed off of another car of the same color.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

SJ_GTI

Quote from: Soup DeVille on November 04, 2015, 06:38:18 AM
In general yes; in this case one might be able to insist on a factory painted piece though; what will happen is that trunk will get robbed off of another car of the same color.

I am not sure that is better. I feel like the local paint shop would have an easier time matching the exact shade of paint...?

I may be wrong but I would think even factory paint has slight variation to the shade when manufactured at different times.

Soup DeVille

There are batch variances, but I'm betting two new cars made in the same week long window in the same color will be so close as to be indiscernible.
Maybe we need to start off small. I mean, they don't let you fuck the glumpers at Glumpees without a level 4 FuckPass, do they?

1975 Honda CB750, 1986 Rebel Rascal (sailing dinghy), 2015 Mini Cooper, 2020 Winnebago 31H (E450), 2021 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Lincoln Aviator

FlatBlackCaddy

I'll throw my 2 cents in, as someone who works in the automotive repair industry(as a supplier).

To get to the point, good bodywork and paint is HARD to come by. The vast majority of what is done out there(i'd say 80%) is WELL BELOW factory quality when it comes to adhesion and durability. Unless this dealership just so happens to have one of the top 5 autobody shops in a very large(capital city sized) metro area, I'd assume it to be inferior to what you should have received. I'd be looking that ass end over with a fine tooth comb, and frankly even if it was mint I'd still want something for all the delays and hassle(you lost a few months of driving, and suffered damage to your car). However that would assume I'd(personally) even want it at this point, I'd be inclined to just move on. More so because of the way you were jerked around on the time frame, don't reward incompetence.